Reddit mentions of Noctua NF-A14 iPPC-3000 PWM, Heavy Duty Cooling Fan, 4-Pin, 3000 RPM (140mm, Black)

Hey bud. I'm not in the growing business but I know a thing or two about PC fans.

Stacking fans increases the "static pressure" (with huge efficiency costs) which will only increase total air flow if there is high resistance to the air flow. It is the same thing as torque in an engine. We sometimes use this for thick radiators but otherwise it is a redundant idea.

Typically you are much better off upgrading the fan. There is a huge difference between different fans. Given your build context, I would recommend purchasing Noctua NF-A14 3000RPM IP67 fan.

Reasons:

1. Responds to voltage so lower voltage means slower speed - allowing you to control the airflow in your case.
   
   
2. High capacity - up to 269 cubic metres of air moved per hour.
   
   
3. High reliability in moist or humid conditions (such as your bucket) - 6 year warranty.
   
   
4. Quiet - one of the quietest fans commercially available and the most efficient in terms of noise/airflow.
   
   
5. Power efficient - triple phase motor design so that down-stepping the voltage will result in significant power savings.
   
   
6. Anti-vibration rubber mounts.
   
   
7. There's more, these are simply the best fans going around. They also come in a 120mm size if that is what you require. The smaller size produces less airflow than the 140mm ones I have recommended, however, they are otherwise practically identical.
   
   Edit: In response to common PM's - To vary the voltage (and thus fan speed and therfore the rate of airflow) you should purchase a fan controller which start at $10.

? They do have other colors this is just one example. https://www.amazon.com/Bearing-Cooling-NF-A14-iPPC-3000-PWM/dp/B00KFCRF1A

Look for the highest cfm fan that you can fit on your bucket. It will force circulate more air than your basic computer fan. More air flow = more evap = cooler. I went with this guy as an upgrade from last year, and it was quite the beast though my water pump gave out, which sucked. The fan worked as an amazing air circulator, so it wasn't all for naught. You could also bump up to the 14mm fan if you really want a bump up in performance and are okay with making some minor tweaks to your cooler bucket top

You can also try to have a fan direct on your cooler and another that you can aim attached to the output tube so that you can push the air in the direction that you would like.

With a $1400 build, don't skimp on $4 fans. Your corsair fan is hot garbage in terms of cfm-to-dbA (52 cfm and 25 dbA). Here's some much better 120mm fans:


1 74 cfm, 22.5 dbA, $4
2 +PWM
3 74 cfm, 15 dbA, 50% more silent
4 110 cfm, 37 dbA, 2.5 times louder
5 241 cfm, this will blow the components out of your case, provides extreme cooling, but 62 dbA, extremely loud


Here's good 140mm options:


1 Cheap, 61 cfm and 16 dbA
2 90 cfm and 18 dbA, way better but more expensive
3 159 cfm and 41 dbA, fastest 140mm fan listed on pcpartpicker


Both of these PSUs are both better and cheaper than yours: 1 2

https://www.amazon.com/Bearing-Cooling-NF-A14-iPPC-3000-PWM/dp/B00KFCRF1A/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1484517467&sr=8-2&keywords=noctua+140mm

Story Time

​

Initially, I started with this case ( https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00Q2Z11QE ) as I was thinking of throwing something together like what you're talking about. Then my "project" began to grow.

That's when I ended up ordering this case instead ( https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005KQ66ZC ). That said, my server consists of a Threadripper 2990WX with an AIO water cooler. Well...this case wasn't made for that. So my father in law machined a hole in the top to mount the radiator on the top of the case like a blower on a car. This worked VERY well for a couple of weeks, but I just wasn't happy with it.

Finally, I ordered this case ( https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0091IZ1ZG ), to which I was able to fit everything inside of with a few extra bolts that still need to be trimmed. Here's a pic of the inside of mine and the temp 32 cores runs at ( https://imgur.com/tek9ID0 - https://imgur.com/vEPFLv5 ), do excuse the dust.

​

As far as SSD's go, just do something like this ( https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GMGZBP0 ). Saves space and doesn't hurt them as they only take a single HDD slot. Taping them to the side of the case doesn't hurt either if you don't care about the looks. Also, I want to boast about these fans for a min ( https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KFCRF1A ). Move a lot of air and aren't as loud as you'd think. The 120mm variant is a good bit louder, but still well worth it.

Sucks about the fans. If you want something that moves an absolutely ridiculous amount of air, this Noctua fan is probably your best bet, with a price to match. There is also this slightly cheaper option made by Silverstone. One last option, if you're ok with a super thick 120mm fan, you can go for this $14 Koolance fan, which is probably the best option if money is a concern. There is also a bigger cousin that Koolance fan, for around $24, that moves air better than anything else I listed here, but is crazy loud.

Awesome that Thermalright is sending a new cooler. That's amazing customer service. You should switch out the mounting hardware and all, see if maybe something was just not within spec.

Intel was always going to say that, they have to stand behind their shitty thermal compound choice.

As far as whether you should have SL bin your chip or not, that's up to you. I personally enjoy the act of finding the maximum stable overclock; If you don't enjoy it, and feel like the extra $20 is worth not having to deal with it, then go for it. I personally feel like AVX offset is cheating, and I know that sentiment is shared by at least a couple of people, but that comes down to your personal workload too.

H500P Mesh news, in case you haven't seen it- https://youtu.be/iVrqEfDbCko?t=51

No news about H500M from what I've seen- Maybe consider contacting Coolermaster customer support about it. I'm loving my SE (and yeah, I ordered mine from that link). I'll let you know if I see a nice case go on a crazy sale.

Not all Noctua fans are tan/brown.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KF7O58G/

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KFCRF1A/

They also sell heavy duty ones that are black
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KFCRF1A/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_r9U6CbQ4H50YZ

Just jumping in to say I've found myself in the same boat. I'm designing an acrylic case for my printer and figured "Why not add a vent while I'm at it!" And down the rabbit hole I fell...

A few things I've learned in my modest 24 hours of research:

• Carbon - Like the Molekule article mentions in their recommendations, a carbon sponge filter isn't going to cut it. You need a large amount of carbon granules (5lb+) and ideally the air should have time to circulate over the carbon for effective adsorption
  
  
• HEPA - HEPA filters can capture particles smaller than 300nm, thanks to Brownian motion, so will definitely do their part in your filtering system
  
  
• Pre-Filter - A pre-filter at your air-intake point will help capture the bigger particles, lengthening the HEPA and carbon lifespan
  
  
• Fan - You need a pretty powerful fan to properly exhaust your enclosure and get the air to properly move through all of the filters. Fans are rated in CFM units (cubic feet per minute), and the cheap ones sold at your favourite electronics store are probably in the 1-10 CFM range. I've been looking at this one that has 158.5 CFM: https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00KFCRF1A/?coliid=I2I9OJ1U1BDXZC&colid=2514DQPRDMWKO&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it
  
  What I'd really like to figure out is how to test for all of these particles at home. I see a lot of posts on here saying "I use a carbon filter and it works great!" but how do we know? Sure, a cheap carbon filter can reduce the odour, but I'd love to be able to do occasional tests to make sure my filter is working effectively. Will post back here if I find anything on that :)
  
  Update Just read about a study that showed recirculating the air in your enclosure helps reduce emissions even more. Seems logical, since the more times the air is pushed through the filters, the more likely they are to catch things - but great to have confirmation on that. Will also have the added benefit of containing the heat, not having to pull colder air into the enclosure while it's running. Source: https://3dprint.com/241787/should-vented-enclosures-become-a-mandatory-safety-standard-for-fff-3d-printers/
  
  My plan now is essentially to have the pre-filter, fan, and HEPA filter mounted on the side of the enclosure, then a hose down to a large box of carbon under the desk, and another hose out of that box feeding back into the other side of the enclosure. I'll likely run the fan on a lower speed while printing, then crank it up to 100% when the print is done and starts to cool - and if I can hook it up to the printer board and have the gcode control that, all the better

You know there are black Noctua fans available?

I know they make some of their models in black, but they're usually more expensive. They look like this, but they aren't available from Amazon in the UK. You could try Newegg, if you're interested.

And if you don't like the brown bits in the corners you can remove them but they're actually the sound dampeners and they work really well.

If you're going that route noctua has industrial fans:

http://www.amazon.com/Bearing-Cooling-NF-A14-iPPC-3000-PWM/dp/B00KFCRF1A/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1464045450&sr=8-9&keywords=noctua

>NF-A14 industrialPPC complies with the ingress protection rating IP52 that not only highly dust resistant but also withstands dripping water equivalent to 3mm rainfall per minute.

There is a black version of the noctua fan, but with tolerable brown corners. I am getting those and painting the corners silver.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00KFCRF1A/ref=pd_aw_sbs_147_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=M51442T0QG6A0G2R1CWK

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KFCRF1A/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

what do u think of this case fan?

i bought three of these case fans for my new build. LMAO jesus they are loud as fuck. I bought them because I love noctua and this color scheme. Any suggestion on how I should configure these? My computer sounds like a fucking weed-eater, but godamn are they strong and my PC is cool as hell.

I've got a Corsair Carbide Air 540 case (very big, 3 stock 140mm fans) with an AMD FX 6350 (AM3+, 125w, stock cooler) that is way too loud to use while trying to watch a movie on my TV. Any suggestions for quiet replacement fans and heatsink? I'd prefer not to spend a ton of money because I'll be upgrading the entire thing in a few years. Been looking at these fans: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KFCRF1A/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A1H9NMCPZH97BO but I'm not sure I want to spend that much on fans. I have no idea where to start with CPU cooler. Not opposed to going with liquid cooling as long as it's not expensive or a huge hassle to install.

not nuetral enough?

https://www.amazon.com/Bearing-Cooling-NF-A14-iPPC-3000-PWM/dp/B00KFCRF1A/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1478117452&sr=8-2&keywords=noctua+140mm

I got these noctua fans for my Kraken x61, and oh god they're so good. I did pay ~50, but the temperatures for my 1700x dropped ~5 degrees, and I run them at ~700 rpm, where it's barely audible at all. 0 regrets, but it definitely is expensive.

A good balance between price/performance/noise is the SP120/140 Performance edition. I believe it's rated at 3.1 h2o/mm in an accurate manner.
If you want pure performance, buy this:
http://www.amazon.com/Bearing-Cooling-NF-A14-iPPC-3000-PWM/dp/B00KFCRF1A/
It's somewhat more expensive, but is much louder and has rating of over 7 h2o/mm (which I also believe should be accurate), which is more than any other brand I know of.

I like your idea of putting a fan as close as possible to the GPU's and I have an idea for it after opening my case and looking it over.

Idea There is another 140mm fan that exhausts up behind the CPU out the back of the case. I measured and a 140mm fan will fit here which should increase the air flow going onto the cards.

Fan I'm looking at is this

no bumps wont knock any tubes loose. they are legit held in no issue. the only way you are popping a tube is if you yank on it pretty hard.

whatever case fans you get, make sure it has good mmh2o stats. that is what will help penetrate through grills and dust filters to ensure air actually gets in the case. knew a dude who spent money on fans that had led, but the mmh2o stats were sub 1.0mmh2o and even at higher rpm, put your hand behind it inside the case and you barely felt anything. this is one of the biggest issue with a lot of builds these days. they go "oh this fan is a air flow fan, well i need good airflow derp" and the fans have crap pressure.

https://www.amazon.com/Bearing-Cooling-NF-P14s-redux-1500-PWM/dp/B00KF7O58G/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1494259307&sr=8-1&keywords=nf-p14s

For example, this fan (as apposed to the brown color original) is 1.91mmh2o and 78.69cfm. Pretty decent fans considering price and will be relatively quiet.

https://www.amazon.com/Bearing-Cooling-NF-A14-iPPC-3000-PWM/dp/B00KFCRF1A/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1494259393&sr=1-2&keywords=nf-a14+ippc

This bad bish, 10.5mmh2o (yeah, holy cow right?) and 158.50CFM. these fans can get airplane loud, but flow amazing. I literally use this fan, 2 as intake, 1 as exhaust, and 2 on radiator in pull configuration pulling air out of the case via the top. All fans run about 1500-1800rpm and temps of the 1800x never go over 40c gaming and 50c prime95 stress test.

Fans of 1.5mmh2o or better for case. radiator fans should have AT LEAST 3.5mmh2o (most aio's come with fans that do just that, so no issue there). CFM isn't really a big deal, as long as the penetration (mmh2o) is there you'll be fine.

They sell both. The 24V version has "24V" in the product code. The 12V version doesn't have "12V" in the product code however, which is confusing (although it does clearly say its a 12V fan on the box).

This is the 12V version of the 3000: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Noctua-NF-A14-industrialPPC-3000PWM-Cooler-components/dp/B00KFCRF1A/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1491226791&sr=8-2&keywords=noctua+nf-a14+industrial

This is the 24V version: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Noctua-NF-A14-PWM-140-mm-Industrial-ppc-24-V-3000-IP67/dp/B0187IB5YG/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1491226791&sr=8-4&keywords=noctua+nf-a14+industrial

Actually thinking to swap default corsair fans for this one... dunno if it will be okay for 115i pro
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KFCRF1A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_swn8Cb2SNTHAN

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KFCRF1A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_2Lf3Cb1K39E90

Ah k, these fans I ordered for the front 280mm rad. I can also install one In bottom of case, think it’s time to start looking at a larger case.

My understanding of the H500(i) is that air should be entering the case via the front (if even just passively) and exiting to the rear and top.

If you want to maintain negative pressure, just make sure your intake fans are pushing in less air than your exhaust fans are evacuating. It might be hard to do given that a 280mm radiator is going to have 2x140mm fans while the H500 has 2x120mm for exhaust (potentially 1x120mm and 1x140mm though), but it would be fairly simple to do by modulating intake fans to run at a lower RPM than your exhaust fans (though the 120mm fans will have to put in more work).

Alternatively, just keep the stock 120mm in the rear and slap on something in the top of the case with big boi airflow like Noctua's nutty 140mm 3000 rpm-capable case fan to make sure that more air is evacuated than air that is taken in.

Yep they are! Well you've got a solid full tower case so I'd go:
Top: 2x 200mm.
Front: 1x 200mm.
Bottom: 2x 140mm .
Rear: 1x 140mm.
Side: 1x 200mm (leave the included one in here).

Noctua fans are known to be the best out there but don't come in 200mm. so grab 3x 140mm of either:

http://www.amazon.com/Premium-Quality-Technology-NF-A14-PWM/dp/B00CP6QLY6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1457741282&sr=8-1&keywords=noctua+fan+140mm

http://www.amazon.com/Bearing-Cooling-NF-A14-iPPC-3000-PWM/dp/B00KFCRF1A/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1457741282&sr=8-2&keywords=noctua+fan+140mm

And grab 3x 200mm: http://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-MegaFlow-200-Computer/dp/B008G3OLRQ/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1457741261&sr=1-1-spons&keywords=200mm+fan&psc=1

You can buy Noctua Fans that aren't brown ...

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KF7O58G/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pd_S_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=1GJ95XKEF6LLS&coliid=I3496LX5IIXD0L


https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KFCRF1A/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=1GJ95XKEF6LLS&coliid=I1Z3TCK9VQCD0K

it's this fan https://www.amazon.com/Bearing-Cooling-NF-A14-iPPC-3000-PWM/dp/B00KFCRF1A/ref=pd_bxgy_147_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=3EJZBFZH0XGT8MTAQVEN

I don't mind the sound, but I atleast need it to do it's job otherwise I'm not using it's full potential

I have 4 120mm Noctua fans and 3 140mm Noctua fans available

The industrial ones are really nice. Less fugly too.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Noctua-NF-A14-industrialppc-3000-PWM-Case-Black-Brown/dp/B00KFCRF1A/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1511438892&sr=8-2&keywords=noctua+industrial

Assuming you just want the best all-in-one cooler, get a Corsair H115i and replace the stock fans with these.

If you want to get fancy, you can check out custom loops, phase change, or liquid nitrogen.