#3,664 in Sports & Outdoors
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Reddit mentions of SportRack Replacement Foam 14-Inch Kayak Block, Black, One Size

Sentiment score: 2
Reddit mentions: 3

We found 3 Reddit mentions of SportRack Replacement Foam 14-Inch Kayak Block, Black, One Size. Here are the top ones.

SportRack Replacement Foam 14-Inch Kayak Block, Black, One Size
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    Features:
  • Replacement Foam for 14" Kayak Carrier
  • Two durable 14"-long closed cell foam blocks to protect kayak and vehicle
  • Non-skid underside to prevent movement on the vehicle
  • Country Of Origin : China
Specs:
ColorBlack
Height8.5 Inches
Length14.25 Inches
SizeOne Size
Weight1.7 Pounds
Width4.25 Inches

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Found 3 comments on SportRack Replacement Foam 14-Inch Kayak Block, Black, One Size:

u/unlock0 · 3 pointsr/kayakfishing

You should be able to get going for $150 total.

I bought the $25 propel paddle from academy, works just fine. My kayak came with one but It seemed too short so I bought this one because it was about a foot longer.
http://www.academy.com/shop/pdp/no-limits-propel-94-kayak-paddle?repChildCatid=824204

PFD $25 walmart.

Milk crate from dicks sporting goods $10

Anchor $10

Rope $5

DIY rod holders - $4 for 10' of 2" pvc

Bungies assorted $5

You can get a kayak roof kit for $30 which is just some straps and a block of foam to protect your roof.

http://www.amazon.com/SportRack-Replacement-14-Inch-Kayak-Block/dp/B00BCLL4LA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1451264836&sr=8-1&keywords=kayak+roof+foam

http://www.amazon.com/Roof-Kayak-Carrier-Foam-Blocks/dp/B00PCNIPBG/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1451264836&sr=8-4&keywords=kayak+roof+foam

I bought my kayak used and it came with a trailer - so I put a hitch on my car for $105 self installed. Euroball mount was $20. Registering the trailer was $28.

u/ElectronGuru · 1 pointr/Kayaking



Keep seeing posts looking for mount options on small cars. Your car probably has tow sockets front and rear + one loop for either. These handle thousands of pounds and you probably have the first one in your jack kit already. Just get a second factory tow loop off eBay for the pair.

Remove the covers and screw in the anchors. Then run straps front and rear plus through the side windows. Ratchet straps are best. Tighten all 3-4 straps until you can’t wiggle the boat with good force.

Photo shows a triangular strap setup since our factory mounts are off center. Third strap goes through the opposite window and to a grab handle. Protect hood paint with a soft cloth. Also shown are purpose bought foam supports front and rear. Complete setup is stable at highway speeds.

LINKS

Foam Kayak Blocks

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BCLL4LA/


Straps

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N7P7EOX/


Flag

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01F4RX3AM/

Anchors - eBay search: make + model + some of tow hook towing eye loop bracket ring

u/NotRoryWilliams · 1 pointr/Kayaking

For some reason every comment in this thread seems to get downvoted. I'm rather curious as to why that would be.

Also, you say you have a factory rack; are there cross rails installed, or just the front to back? If there are no crossrails, you will have to add them. I recommend Thule, but it doesn't matter very much; just settle on a pair that you feel is a good value and doesn't cause too much wind noise.

There are quite a few options, depending on budget, frequency of use, and what else you intend to do. Let me offer a few suggestions ranging in price.

  1. Simplest/cheapest: foam blocks and web straps. Less than $50 total, but the least convenient and the least secure.

  2. J-bars: the standard approach for one boat, and available in a few different choices by budget and special features. Price can vary from $50 for a cheap set on ebay, to $150 for the deluxe foldable ones.

  3. Specialized single-boat carriers, such as Yakima's roller setup or the Hull-a-vator.

  4. Multi-boat: "stacker" setups, available from both Thule and Yakima with only subtle differences.

    No matter which solution you choose, you will need some web straps. Most kits come with some, but there's no harm in having extras. NRS and Thule make the best straps, if you're willing to pay $15 or more per strap. I found some cheapies at Harbor Freight for all of $2 each, which work perfectly and since they're so cheap, I just bought a ton of them and cut a pair to length for each boat's specific needs. (Six boat fleet). I'm sure there are similar deals on Amazon and eBay, but I saw these at the local store and I just grab another set whenever I see them on sale. I have a few sets of high-end straps, but after lots of trial and error I've settled on the cheap ones for all kayak transport, and the premium straps only come out for the wood canoe (because they're rubberized to better protect the surface; not an issue with a plastic boat.)

    With the factory roof rack, the most basic recommendation would be to just use the foam blocks and a few web straps. This solution gets you safely on the road for less than $50. The foam blocks are essentially generic; different shops sell different brands for different prices, but what you would want are two of the wide "V" shaped blocks to mount to the top of your roof rails. Example from Amazon. I used a knife to shape the bottom of the blocks to "lock" on to my factory bars, but even if you do that perfectly you'll still want to remove the blocks when not transporting your boat. Put the blocks on your factory rails, set the boat on top of the foam blocks, and tie the boat down with straps. For this method, wrap the strap around the bar twice on each side of the kayak twice to keep it from sliding sideways. The strap should wrap around the roof bar on both sides of the kayak, running above the boat twice, not passing under the boat at all. It's hard to explain, so if you're confused ask and I'll go take a picture of my straps outside.

    The next up is j-bars... despite extensive downvotes, the conversation elsewhere in this thread on them explains them adequately. J bars are fairly foolproof as long as you remember to secure them even minimally with a strap. They require a bit more lifting than any other solution, but once you've got the boat up, it will stay put, and you're unlikely to ever warp your hull.

    Fancier solutions:
    Yakima rollers - I just helped a friend set these up for her Carolina, and she loves it. She has back problems, but the roller setup makes loading really easy. The downside is that it does little to simplify tying down; you're still essentially stuck doing the double loop method that you'd need with the foam blocks.

    Hullavator - it's essentially a J-bar that hydraulically lowers down from your roof. It's the most expensive and sophisticated option there is. It's a luxury item that costs almost as much as your boat. You don't need it.

    Stackers - I wouldn't actually recommend stackers for your setup. Know that they exist; they're essentially a set of vertical towers that you can use as attachment points to secure multiple boats. A set of stackers can carry up to six boats safely, or more if used creatively. For one boat, stackers add unnecessary compromises. But they are the most versatile solution available, and a prudent choice if you know you're gonna get addicted and buy more boats.