#40 in Test, measure & inspect products
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Reddit mentions of Wixey WR300 Digital Angle Gauge
Sentiment score: 6
Reddit mentions: 8
We found 8 Reddit mentions of Wixey WR300 Digital Angle Gauge. Here are the top ones.
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0.1 degree resolution, accuracy, and repeatabilityWorks great for miter saws and table sawsResolution 0.05mm, 0.001-inch, 1/64-inchMagnets attach to saw blades and cast iron table topsunctions include an ON/OFF button and a ZERO button
Specs:
| Height | 1.18 Inches |
| Length | 1.97 Inches |
| Weight | 0.24 Pounds |
| Width | 1.97 Inches |
Saddle square
Wixey Digital Angle Gauge
Miter saws are for convenience, not precision. Especially a cheap sliding one will go out of adjustment very easily. There's nothing preventing your table saw from making perfect 45° cuts, but you can't rely on the angle gauge even on some high-end saws.
Get a Wixey angle gauge to set the tilt of your blade (which may require adjusting a stop inside the saw), or make a miter sled which allows for fast, easy cuts with the blade straight.
I invested about $30 in a digital angle gauge. It's really nice to have around to make sure your saws are in tune also.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001PTGBRQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I'd recommend whiteside for router bits. Freud and CMT are also very good but generally a little pricier. Most router bit kits you see in big box stores are pretty much junk. They can get through a couple jobs but they don't last like a good quality bit. If its a bit you are going to use for one project and probably never again, a Chinese bit off ebay will generally get you through the job though.
For a drill press, I'd look for a used one first. They are pretty common on craigslist and such. Positive stops on anything less than a high end machine tend to be pretty inaccurate, I'd just get a digital angle gauge. Most bench dp's are gonna be pretty low end, if you want to buy new the harbor freight or the wen 10" are decent for the money, I'd go relatively cheap on the DP and put money elsewhere if you are a beginner, for the most part drill presses just aren't a tool where you get much improvement with more money until you start looking at the big units.
This combined with the Wixey Digital inclinometer (http://www.amazon.com/Wixey-WR300-Digital-Angle-Gauge/dp/B001PTGBRQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1349016547&sr=8-1&keywords=wixey) And you can find anything quickly when you get the altitude and azimuth measurements from SkySafari or Stellarium.
I cut my base and installed a paper degree circle, but I like this idea better because it's easier to level the base which is crucial for getting consistent results. I'll be in for one of these for sure.
No prob.
For me, I got the setting circle preinstalled on my AD10 (A great advantage with Apertura is their amazing customer service. I posted a first light report with my AD10 on an astronomy forum I frequent and the guy who runs Apertura responded because he already has an account on the site but I digress...). You can install your own setting circle though.
As far as an angle finder, the Wixey angle finder seems to be the standard digital finder for this sort of thing. I just went to Lowe's and picked up an $8 analogue angle finder with a magnetic base. With a little help it stays in place on my OTA and using the setting circle + high performance angle finder I can just go straight to anything.
P.S. Apps are your friend. SkEye is probably my most heavily used astronomy tool, period. Sundroid is very convenient. Both are well worth the money.
I'm kind of thinking of just getting one of these and sticking with free handing. I THINK I'm at 15-20 degree angle (results seem to indicate as such) but I'm not 100% positive. I just have no real concept of angles other than eye-balling it. I don't have enough knives (yet) to really validate the clone/real thing anyways lol http://www.amazon.com/Wixey-WR300-Digital-Angle-Gauge/dp/B001PTGBRQ/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1422170880&sr=8-8&keywords=angle+finder
/u/cr0aker gave a good breakdown. torch angle and stickout are the most important factors. I use a digital angle inclinometer http://www.amazon.com/Wixey-WR300-Digital-Angle-Gauge/dp/B001PTGBRQ/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1409099065&sr=1-1&keywords=angle+gauge+digital like that.
I will note that I generally eyeball stick out, however we used to do things like weld a stand off to a pair of welding pliers that way you can set the stand off against the torch tip and then cut the wire to a set length. Then when I'm programming I make sure the tip of the wire is just barely touching the surface.
As far as parameters. When I was in school and at a few employers I used to keep detailed notes on parameters and what worked, also I was responsible for WPQR's and WPS. Nowadays I've made a form that has important setup information (fxiture location, parameters, notes, descriptions of setup, and absolute location of the part at a corner). Miller and lincoln both have free apps https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.millerwelds.weldsettings&hl=en that give good starting parameters for a given process. At my current job everything is stainless in set thickness so I start at 60 Cm/min (about 20 IPM) and adjust parameters according to position and material thickness.