#10 in Router parts & accessories
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Reddit mentions of Yonico 15227 Flooring 2 Bit Tongue and Groove Flooring Router Bit Set 1/2-Inch Shank
Sentiment score: 2
Reddit mentions: 2
We found 2 Reddit mentions of Yonico 15227 Flooring 2 Bit Tongue and Groove Flooring Router Bit Set 1/2-Inch Shank. Here are the top ones.
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- This 2 bit tongue & groove flooring router bits set cuts 1/4" tongues for stock upto 1-1/8". 1/2" shanks.
- Create tongue & groove joints for projects such as flooring, rail and stile and many more
- Premium C3 micro-grain tungsten carbide blades for a sharper & longer lasting edge
- For use on table mount router
- Silver induction brazing for maximum strength and durability
Features:
Specs:
| Height | 3 Inches |
| Length | 6.25 Inches |
| Number of items | 1 |
| Weight | 1.10231131 Pounds |
| Width | 5.25 Inches |
Gladly. I bought 1"x4"x8' clear-heart redwood boards. I also borrowed a router and router bench and bought a [tongue and groove set] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KZM2AIS/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1) and ran all of my boards through the router. You can definitely buy wood already tongue and grooved which is a lot easier, but I was really specific about the wood I wanted to use so I had to do it myself. If you're going to do it yourself and haven't done it before, definitely test it out on some throwaway wood to practice before you start cutting into your stock.
Once they were all t&g'd I started mounting them against the plywood walls and they just stack on top of each other. I cleaned off all the wood sticking out past the walls with a router template bit. I used Lexel to seal the edges between the redwood siding and the plywood, then cut some 1/8" plywood as trim to cover the gap, you can see me clamping the trim on here. I also had to cut out my doors/windows, etc.
For the outer roof and hatch, I used 1/8in Marine grade plywood. It's super durable, and bent easily over the frame. For the inner roof I used 1/8in maple plywood, and in-between both those layers I filled it with insulation. You can kinda see the process here.
I finished the siding and redwood with Waterlox Sealer & Finish. It's a tung oil sealer, and the finish is marine spar varnish that protects against water, UV...etc. The best part is if it ever needs a new coat you don't need to sand, you just add on a new layer and it kinda 'burns' in.
As for cost....I'm not sure, I stopped keeping track :P - Redwood can get expensive, but I really liked it so I splurged. You can get just as beautiful a finish with pine, which is much easier to find already tongue and grooved. Pine is great as long as you seal it.
Here's some photos of the process and the finish. Please let me know what other questions you have!
I'm certain this goes without saying, but be certain to get carbide-tipped bits. A teflon coating is probably a good idea too since you'll be running a lot of stock through. Found these:
http://www.amazon.com/Yonico-15227-Matched-Tongue-V-Notch/dp/B00KZM2AIS
Be sure that your router table is well set up with the safety gear in place as well as sufficient infeed/outfeed tables. Spend some time getting your workplace set up so you have an easy and safe workflow (pull stock from here, run it through here while keeping hands in these spots, store the finished pieces there) -- I expect you'll need to do a lot of material, so make it easy on yourself.
Beyond that, this shouldn't be too difficult (just time consuming). Install the floor, sand it in place, finish and you should be good. Post pics when you're done, I'll be interested to see it.