Reddit mentions: The best edge treatment & grooving router bits

Kudos on diving into a huge project. You're going to learn a ton.

1. Router sled is a great option. Watch LOTS of videos. If you don't have a bench or table big enough to set up a router sled, you can do it on the floor just fine, as long as your floor is flat. Here is an example of the type of router bit you'll need. Go slow and make shallow cuts - trust me on this one. And be sure that with a slab this big, it's not rocking at all when lying on a flat surface (you may have to use shims or the like when setting it up). If it's got any twist to it then it may rock, and you won't get a flat surface when planing it.
   
   
2. Wood filler and epoxy will both work, as will very fine sawdust mixed with wood glue.
   
   
3. Yep, take it off. I've done this once, so I'm not exactly expert, but I took the bark with a chisel (be careful not to gouge the wood) then sanded the edges with sanding drill bits. Worked for me.
   
   
4. There are as many opinions about finishing as there are woodworkers on this sub. I recommend you take the top 4 or 5 suggestions you get on here and try them all on the underside of the slab. See which one you like the best and go with it. If it were me, I'd seal with shellac first (maple gets blotchy so sealing first is a good idea) then finish with a wiping oil-based poly, doing a ton of coats. Personally, I thin [this stuff] (http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/251617123224?lpid=82) with paint thinner (about 50/50) because the dude who owns my lumber yard recommended it and it's worked great for me, but please do your own research.
   
   
5. No nails. They are shitty fasteners. Screws are great, but you need to account for wood movement when you decide how to attach your slab to the base that you build. That's too long a discussion for here - please do yourself a favor and read up online about wood movement. You'll pretty quickly figure out your different options. Here are some examples of discussions on topic.
   
   Good luck!!!

Gladly. I bought 1"x4"x8' clear-heart redwood boards. I also borrowed a router and router bench and bought a [tongue and groove set] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KZM2AIS/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1) and ran all of my boards through the router. You can definitely buy wood already tongue and grooved which is a lot easier, but I was really specific about the wood I wanted to use so I had to do it myself. If you're going to do it yourself and haven't done it before, definitely test it out on some throwaway wood to practice before you start cutting into your stock.

Once they were all t&g'd I started mounting them against the plywood walls and they just stack on top of each other. I cleaned off all the wood sticking out past the walls with a router template bit. I used Lexel to seal the edges between the redwood siding and the plywood, then cut some 1/8" plywood as trim to cover the gap, you can see me clamping the trim on here. I also had to cut out my doors/windows, etc.

For the outer roof and hatch, I used 1/8in Marine grade plywood. It's super durable, and bent easily over the frame. For the inner roof I used 1/8in maple plywood, and in-between both those layers I filled it with insulation. You can kinda see the process here.

I finished the siding and redwood with Waterlox Sealer & Finish. It's a tung oil sealer, and the finish is marine spar varnish that protects against water, UV...etc. The best part is if it ever needs a new coat you don't need to sand, you just add on a new layer and it kinda 'burns' in.

As for cost....I'm not sure, I stopped keeping track :P - Redwood can get expensive, but I really liked it so I splurged. You can get just as beautiful a finish with pine, which is much easier to find already tongue and grooved. Pine is great as long as you seal it.

Here's some photos of the process and the finish. Please let me know what other questions you have!

They're a fortune. No one builds a solid desk out of ebony, and few do it out of black walnut. I've done this math. I'm sitting at an Ikea Jerker desk with a 3'x4', 3/4" thick top. If I were to remake the top out of Home Depot's cheapest hardwood - poplar - it would be on the order of $50. If I were to go with ebony gaboon from Woodworker's Source (decent online prices), it would be around $2600. Remember, that's just for a 3'x4' rectangle.

However, I'd never build out of ebony, even if I could afford it. All species that fall under the ebony umbrella are rare and dwindling in numbers, because of rapid population growth in the areas where it grows, the fact that it tends to grow in poorer areas where people are often more concerned with where their next meal is coming from than in conservation, which leads to overharvesting, and the fact that most ebony takes between 60 and 200 years to grow to usable size. It is not being reponsibly managed, and there are groups, conservation movements, scientific studies, published papers, and much else revolving around what to do about the fact that this resource is highly threatened. A lot of woodworking stores won't supply it, or can't, legally. In fact, I've actually never seen ebony in anything close to the size needed to build a desk. I have a few 1' long 2x2s.

Walnut is a far better option. My desk top would only be over $100, instead of over $2500 :) Walnut, from what I've seen, has a hugely varying BF price (board foot - a unit of volume equal to 144"³, e.g. a 1" thick 12"x1' board). I've seen it anywhere from $6+ to $10+ per BF, or on sale for about $4/BF. You can probably find it <$4/BF at a sawmill in a walnut-rich area. As rare as I find it to be here in LA, and the fact that it's being ravaged all over the western US by Thousand Cankers Disease (thankfully, most of the US' black walnut trees seem unaffected so far, in the eastern half of the US), I still see people talking about it in woodworking forums like it's a weed where they live, and many of them use it as firewood!

If you do make it out of walnut, you can cut costs considerably, and save a few walnut trees with what are called secondary woods - i.e. woods for the interior, unseen part that are much more affordable and commonplace. You can see in the pics of this walnut desk build that they used poplar, baltic birch ply, and some oak ply for the interior.

As for the beveled edge, that's a tricky one. The top is too big for a router table (unless you build or buy many rolling supports - but still, awkward). The bit you'd need is far too big for most routers. You'll probably be building up the top out of separate planks glued together, so that gives you the ability to use a router table on a single plank which you'd then glue to the front. For bits, you might be able to find raised panel bits like you want, but more likely you'll want to go for a table top bit, or more likely, as most table top bits impart fancy edges (like this), you'll want a handrail bit. Grizzly makes this one and this larger one. There are also versions from Amana, CMT, Yonico, and Freud.

Definitely research the quality of those, and determine the actual sizes before you buy, as it's hard to tell from an image. I have no affiliation or preferences here. I've only worked with Freud, and only 1 or 2 bits briefly, and they were fine, but so have been pretty much all router bits I've ever used. I can feel the difference in a quality bit, in that wood just seems to slide past with little effort. This is likely a case of better quality steel sharpened more lovingly. I've broken a handful of Ryobi bits, but in fairness, they were 1/4" shank, and I was pushing them pretty hard. It's really hard to break these 1/2" shank. In fact, I've never heard of it happening.

I keep feeling there's a clever way to do this with something like a wide moulding plane.

I'm certain this goes without saying, but be certain to get carbide-tipped bits. A teflon coating is probably a good idea too since you'll be running a lot of stock through. Found these:

http://www.amazon.com/Yonico-15227-Matched-Tongue-V-Notch/dp/B00KZM2AIS

Be sure that your router table is well set up with the safety gear in place as well as sufficient infeed/outfeed tables. Spend some time getting your workplace set up so you have an easy and safe workflow (pull stock from here, run it through here while keeping hands in these spots, store the finished pieces there) -- I expect you'll need to do a lot of material, so make it easy on yourself.

Beyond that, this shouldn't be too difficult (just time consuming). Install the floor, sand it in place, finish and you should be good. Post pics when you're done, I'll be interested to see it.

I own a Craftex CX-601, which is a very similar machine to the one you've decided on.

On the vice, I would recommend either buying a vice that someone else owns and can confirm is good...or only buy one you can see in person. I bought a 5 inch Taiwanese vice, and I'm pretty disappointed with the quality of it. It was on-sale, and I figured it would "do fine" while I looked for a Kurt or other super nice unit on Craigslist. Turns out it does "do fine", but the moveable jaw was shimmed instead of machined square. Not good. On my table a 5in vice is a good size, but I probably could have gone with a six. Consider upsizing yours to a 5in vice.

It's worth looking to see if you have any tool shops nearby that carry milling machines, even ones of a different brand. Armed with your machine's measurements you can find a "similar" sized bed on a floor model and see what a 4, 5 and 6in vice will look like. That's what I did before ordering both my mill and my vice size.

All the clamping kits are basically the exact same in the box, probably from the same company. Shop around, you can save even more money:
http://www.amazon.com/Anytime-Tools-Slot-CLAMP-CLAMPING/dp/B007DMLBRE?ie=UTF8&keywords=clamping%20kit%201%2F2%20t-slot&qid=1458758346&ref_=sr_1_6&sr=8-6

http://www.harborfreight.com/58-piece-combination-step-block-and-clamp-set-3-8-eighth-inch-16-nc-studs-1-2-half-inch-clamps-5952.html

I own that end-mill set, very happy with it.

You have two edge finders listed, a Mitutoyo edge finder and a Fowler edge and centre finder. You only need the one combo unit, and this Mitutoyo is cheaper: http://www.amazon.com/Mitutoyo-050103-Center-Finder-Diameter/dp/B002SG7PPM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1458758586&sr=8-1&keywords=edge+and+center+finder

You are missing a holder for your horizontal dial indicator, which I'm presuming you're ordering for squaring up your head to the table, and your vice to the table. The magnetic base you have is great for checking run out of the spindle, and movement of the work, but not ideal for squaring up the head. I started with a clamp like this:
http://www.amazon.com/HHIP-4401-0401-Universal-Indicator-Holder/dp/B01BHHY92E?ie=UTF8&keywords=universal%20indicator%20holder&qid=1458759060&ref_=sr_1_21&sr=8-21
Which I wasn't too happy with. It works, but it's pretty easy to upset the clamp alignment and you have to start over. I have since ordered this unit: https://www.accusizetools.com/egaa-z986-zero-set/ but haven't had a need to re-square my head or vice yet. Doesn't look like it's available on Amazon though.

I notice the mill you're looking at has the option to add the X-axis power feed for $299. If you can stretch the budget, definitely go for it. I figured I would "add one later" and even though I still plan on doing so, man am I cranking away on that handle a whole lot.

It's not cheap, but I find this set of drill bits to be quite handy: http://www.amazon.com/Woodtek-928828-Boring-Machinist-Titanium/dp/B008RE2CSY/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1458759539&sr=8-6&keywords=115pc+drill+bit+set

Fair enough. To be honest, I'm not an experienced or skilled woodworker. The raised panels are easy if you have proper router bit.

I'm not a purest and don't mind pocket screws for this type of thing. The only place you ever see them is when you open the drawers and if I were smarter I could have hidden too. I wasn't setting out to win any awards with this dresser - I just wanted to see what I could do and I'm pretty happy with the results given the amount of effort. I know that pocket screws will never be "accepted" as a valid type of join, but for the mild hobbyist like me they work great. I would never have attempted a project like this if I didn't have my Kreg Jig.. it just makes things easier. I'm sure I'll eventually try some dovetails or box joints, but until then - pocket screws for me!

I bought a cheap set from Kseibi just to be able to experiment with a range of bits as you say, without breaking the bank, but I hardly use them; I think I've only used one straight bit. (Note also that they're metric, which is hard to see initially.) They are probably decent for the price, but when I had a specific need I bought the bit I needed, like a rabbeting bit or undersized plywood dado cutters, usually either a Diablo from the local Home Depot or Freud from Amazon (same company, and because they had good ratings/price combination).

I think you'll also do better buying them as many recommend buying other tools: decide on a project and buy what you need to make it. If you have a project where you want to biscuit join, buy a slot-cutting bit, and so forth.

I think I understand you and like the general idea. Do you mean something like a T-Slot bit? I'm not super familiar with bits as I still need to purchase a router.

http://www.amazon.com/Yonico-14188-T-Slot-T-Track-Slotting/dp/B00KZM1R8W/ref=pd_cp_hi_3

I'm not sure how to attractively do the corners as these bits start from the end. I'd love a rail that wraps all the way around. Maybe I could leave the extra slot openings exposed, as I could just slide the accessory on from the side.

If I read correctly, the accessories would essentially have a t on the back of them that can snug into the slot? Would you recommend the backs of accessories really be the full 5" height? I could see that being a bit cumbersome to pick up, move around and store. Maybe super useful for a full book holding shelf, but not needed for a cupholder.

I'm also concerned about wear and tear on the locking t part.

Love this idea though.

Wow yes I think that’s it. Thank you for pointing me in the right direction. I found this. Pretty sure I’m buying a wood shop now to save me 3500 on doors in this remodel.

My suggestions.

1. Fill in the nicks and pits.
   
   Use [wood filler] (http://www.lowes.com/pd_188554-63-E8150_0__?productId=50015676&Ntt=wood+filler&pl=1&currentURL=%3FNtt%3Dwood%2Bfiller&facetInfo=) on the surface and edge.
   
   
2. Get a clean smooth edge
   
   Get a trim router and a [1/4 roundover bit] (http://www.amazon.com/MLCS-6352-4-Inch-Radius-Router/dp/B002SW2N1W/ref=sr_1_3?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=undefined&sr=1-3&keywords=1%2F4+radius+roundover+bit) and rout around the edge. What that will do is get rid most of the nicks and give it a nice round edge. Be sure to use a scrap piece of wood to set your depth on your roundover bit so it just gives you a rounded edge. This will give you a clean edge all around.
   
   
3. Crackle finish
   
   Get two colors of paint and some elmers glue. The stuff you used in school. Or even the white glue from the dollar store. Apply your base coat and let it dry. Then brush over the base coat with the glue and let stand till it gets tacky. Finally use your second color of paint and brush over the glue. As the glue dries it will create a crackle finish. You can then put on a clear coat if you wish or leave as is.
   
   

You my friend have some big cojones to go at wenge with a rasp. The rests look like they came out very well but man that must have been some work! Much easier with a router and something like this but maybe its just because I am old and lazy! Great work!

I think they look great! Maybe a relief cut on the underside at each end to make it easier to pick up off a table? Maybe a small cubby that is made to fit a bic lighter? I think these are good as is though.


Did you use a router with a bowl cutting bit? I've been thinking about making rolling trays, ash trays, and maybe a sherlock stand?

This is the thing I'm talking about

http://www.amazon.com/CMT-851-502-11B-Bearing-Diameter-Carbide-Tipped/dp/B000P4O5ZC

Bits to get you through your next couple of projects, and an edge guide if your router didn't come with one.

For cutting dados, choose a bit that matches the material thickness of your shelves. Keep in mind that plywood is not a full 3/4". It can be 22/32, 23/32, or 18mm depending on what you buy.

For roundovers, I like this set, but I lived for a long time with just a single 1/4" roundover bit before I bought it.

When bit shopping, I usually look for Whiteside bits, and fall back on Freud Industrial (not Diablo) if I can't find what I need. Both are relatively easy to find on Amazon and relatively impossible to find at the home center.

It's also generically useful to have a rabbeting bit, and a couple of straight bits (I use 1/2" and 1/4" the most).

Thanks! Yeah, doing the solid wood approach doesn't make much sense unless that's just the lumber you have on hand but it's definitely beefy enough to handle some candles!

Here's the router bit. Just make sure you sand first or you'll end up rounding the corners.

Haha of course! In that case, I would go with this bit: https://www.amazon.com/Magnate-Surface-Planing-Bottom-Cleaning/dp/B009X5MZ74

Works great for us. The final step is either a large wide-belt sander or large stroke sander, then you can run the wood slab show.

I am not too far from you and slabs are always fun to look at!

I'd start with one of these, one of these, and add on this one.

That should have you pretty well covered for about $40.

I also heard good things about Infinity router bits, but i haven't been able to bring myself to spend the money on them. They have a slight downcut angle to the cutting edge instead of being totally straight, so they cut cleaner and easier from having a shearing effect going on instead of just brute cutting force.

For the top face, you need one of these - https://www.amazon.com/Whiteside-Spoilboard-Surfacing-Router-Shank/dp/B071748JQN

​

And then you need to get your spindle pointing nice and accurately straight down, and you're good.

I have used this Yonico 1.5" bit for cutting boards with great success

http://amzn.com/B00KZM20GU

Well, normally it would be a roundover bit in a router. Dremel does make a roundover bit, but I'm not sure that it's something that could be done well (or safely) freehand without the router base, which you didn't mention having.

http://amzn.com/B00004UDIJ

That being said, if you're not too concerned about precision you could definitely round over the edge with your sander. Will just take some time.

I've had luck with shallow passes using a dish bit. Not my idea, some redditor who will get no credit who probably got the suggestion from someone else. The radius means little to no chipping/tear out (so I'm told and so I've experienced). I use a 1/4" radius, 1 1/4" diameter dish bit. Works great with end grain. https://www.amazon.com/Freud-Radius-Carving-Shank-99-026/dp/B00004T7M5

Uh, pretty sure the pointed end is a "center finder". That's what I use it for anyway.

http://youtu.be/06IGyn84lmE?t=1m23s

That's what Mitutoyo says it is.

You have a good idea too there though, but I don't think that situation comes up enough to warrant slapping one on the back of your edge finder.

I am current doing a good amount of slab flattening with a different set up with ho hum results. Is this the kind of bit you use? http://www.amazon.com/CMT-851-502-11B-Bearing-Diameter-Carbide-Tipped/dp/B000P4O5ZC

If you go the sled route you will wants big dish bit to make quick work of flattening the top. Plus the smooth surface is from the dish bit, you won't get the same results from a straight bit. I think this is the bit I used http://www.amazon.com/CMT-851-502-11B-Bearing-Diameter-Carbide-Tipped/dp/B000P4O5ZC

Are you using a proper surfacing bit in the router? It makes a huge difference in this application. Here's a cheap one that I can't vouch for, Magnate 2705 Surface Planing ( Bottom Cleaning ) Router Bit - 1-1/2 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0006B0QX4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_eot.zbAEX7S4E

Ooh, probably not unless you find one that has the little stem instead of a roller bearing. Maybe the kind meant for a dremel tool in a routing base. Does it have to be round, or just not a sharp corner? If you just want to break the edge a hand plane would do it. Lee Valley used to sell a tiny chamfering plane, but I don't see it on their site any more.

Edit to add I found the bit I was thinking of.

I primarily use 1/4 & 1/2" roundover bits to smooth over the edges of our cutting boards. I also have:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00004T7M5/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (for putting handles on the bottom of the board)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00004T7DM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (for juice trays)

And this bit for mortises based on the Wood Whisperer's method of creating them:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00004T7K1/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00004T7CZ/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_c_api_ztwGybJKHHQHK


My bits are part of this series:

http://www.infinitytools.com/routing/router-bits/carbide/groove-making-router-bits/dado-planer-router-bits

This low cost bit worked surprisingly well for me:


Magnate 2705 Surface Planing ( Bottom Cleaning ) Router Bit - 1-1/2 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0006B0QX4/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_c_api_iNwGybJCQKMXB

It's a Bosch 1617EVS - 2-1/4HP

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00004TKHV/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1


The bit is a Yonico 1-1/2"

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KZM20GU/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It worked well but I did have to remove a lot of material to get it flat and ended up making to passes per side.

Any decent bottom cleaning router bit. I use [this one](Yonico 14976 1-1/2-Inch Diameter Bottom Cleaning Router Bit 1/2-Inch Shank https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KZM20GU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_vikVCb82PFRBK) most of the time.

http://www.amazon.com/Freud-18-113-1-Inch-Diameter-Router/dp/B00004T7DI

I bought this guy


And it rules, all day long.

This one is what I used. A lot cheaper than those Amana cutters with inserts.

https://www.amazon.com/Whiteside-Spoilboard-Surfacing-Router-Shank/dp/B071748JQN

I use a cnc spoilboard bit for the replaceable carbide cutters.

Before that I used this bit and it worked well, but sharpening it all the time got annoying. I've also used this bit before and got really good results but it takes a lot longer with the narrower width.

If you have a lower HP router, stay under 1 1/2" diameter.

Gotcha--regarding the router sled setup--if you're unhappy with the finish, try using a bowl bit. I've got one of these monstrosities, and the rounded corners seem to make tearout less of a possibility, although I'm generally not using mine for end grain . I DO, however, use it for guitar bodies, and I'm generally fairly picky about marring the surface, since my router is used for final thicknessing.

I've ordered this bit based on the recomendation of some people on this subreddit: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0006B0QX4/ref=pe_385040_30332190_TE_3p_M3T1_ST1_dp_1

There's also a 2.75" but that just sounds kind scary (http://www.amazon.com/Magnate-Surface-Planing-Bottom-Cleaning/dp/B0006B0QXO/ref=pd_bxgy_hi_img_y)