Reddit mentions: The best router its

Kudos on diving into a huge project. You're going to learn a ton.

1. Router sled is a great option. Watch LOTS of videos. If you don't have a bench or table big enough to set up a router sled, you can do it on the floor just fine, as long as your floor is flat. Here is an example of the type of router bit you'll need. Go slow and make shallow cuts - trust me on this one. And be sure that with a slab this big, it's not rocking at all when lying on a flat surface (you may have to use shims or the like when setting it up). If it's got any twist to it then it may rock, and you won't get a flat surface when planing it.
   
   
2. Wood filler and epoxy will both work, as will very fine sawdust mixed with wood glue.
   
   
3. Yep, take it off. I've done this once, so I'm not exactly expert, but I took the bark with a chisel (be careful not to gouge the wood) then sanded the edges with sanding drill bits. Worked for me.
   
   
4. There are as many opinions about finishing as there are woodworkers on this sub. I recommend you take the top 4 or 5 suggestions you get on here and try them all on the underside of the slab. See which one you like the best and go with it. If it were me, I'd seal with shellac first (maple gets blotchy so sealing first is a good idea) then finish with a wiping oil-based poly, doing a ton of coats. Personally, I thin [this stuff] (http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/251617123224?lpid=82) with paint thinner (about 50/50) because the dude who owns my lumber yard recommended it and it's worked great for me, but please do your own research.
   
   
5. No nails. They are shitty fasteners. Screws are great, but you need to account for wood movement when you decide how to attach your slab to the base that you build. That's too long a discussion for here - please do yourself a favor and read up online about wood movement. You'll pretty quickly figure out your different options. Here are some examples of discussions on topic.
   
   Good luck!!!

Gladly. I bought 1"x4"x8' clear-heart redwood boards. I also borrowed a router and router bench and bought a [tongue and groove set] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KZM2AIS/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1) and ran all of my boards through the router. You can definitely buy wood already tongue and grooved which is a lot easier, but I was really specific about the wood I wanted to use so I had to do it myself. If you're going to do it yourself and haven't done it before, definitely test it out on some throwaway wood to practice before you start cutting into your stock.

Once they were all t&g'd I started mounting them against the plywood walls and they just stack on top of each other. I cleaned off all the wood sticking out past the walls with a router template bit. I used Lexel to seal the edges between the redwood siding and the plywood, then cut some 1/8" plywood as trim to cover the gap, you can see me clamping the trim on here. I also had to cut out my doors/windows, etc.

For the outer roof and hatch, I used 1/8in Marine grade plywood. It's super durable, and bent easily over the frame. For the inner roof I used 1/8in maple plywood, and in-between both those layers I filled it with insulation. You can kinda see the process here.

I finished the siding and redwood with Waterlox Sealer & Finish. It's a tung oil sealer, and the finish is marine spar varnish that protects against water, UV...etc. The best part is if it ever needs a new coat you don't need to sand, you just add on a new layer and it kinda 'burns' in.

As for cost....I'm not sure, I stopped keeping track :P - Redwood can get expensive, but I really liked it so I splurged. You can get just as beautiful a finish with pine, which is much easier to find already tongue and grooved. Pine is great as long as you seal it.

Here's some photos of the process and the finish. Please let me know what other questions you have!

I really wish I had taken more pics, but this is what I have. To be fair, lots of much more talented folks have done full videos of the process, so I defer you to them. u/vikingcode1 has a great example showing how straightforward and easy the process can be. I will try to take more pics next go-round.

to your other questions - for the lamination I first glued up two halves, each consisting of one piece of andiroba and one piece of pecan. I milled them to be as identical as possible, then using my table saw I put a 1/2" wide and 1/4" deep groove down the center of each. I also milled up a 1/2" square piece of pecan, cutting about 2" off of that to use as a plug. with the plug on one end and the rough key stock on the other, I glued up the two halves. once the clamps were set I pulled the bar out to work on it.

while the handle blank was drying I used my dremel with a router table attachment and a cutoff wheel to cut the main part of the recess for the carbide insert. it was easy to just eyeball the depth and go. Then I shaped the end of the bar with my grinder, rounding it off a bit. That wasn't really necessary but it made a much cleaner looking final product. I drilled and tapped the bar to match the EWT screw threads.

The "cap" is called a ferrule, and I made mine from a piece of 1" (od) copper tubing. I think a lot of people use the little couplers (1" id) that are designed to join 1" pipe, but I thought that seemed too big for my taste. The couplers are cheap enough, but the section of pipe is even cheaper, assuming you don't mind cutting off pieces to make your ferrules. if I was just making one tool I'd probably use a coupler. The ferrule and the tool bar are epoxied into place, as are the BBs I used for weight, though I don't think the BBs needed the epoxy.

as for handle to tool ratio... I don't know. I went with what looked right to me and seemed like it would be stable enough. it's a 12" bar with about 3" inside the handle and 9" protruding. I have a longer handle and a slightly shorter bar than the EWT version and am very happy with the result. The best part of doing this yourself is being able to make it exactly how you want it.

Yes, that's what that description means. I wouldn't get that router bit though. What you want is a top-bearing pattern bit. [Something like this, though it doesn't have to be this exact one.] (http://www.amazon.com/Dia-Top-Bearing-Flush-Trim/dp/B0000225XQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1457217370&sr=8-1&keywords=router+pattern+bit+top+bearing) As far a brands, I like Whiteside, Amana, or Freud. It's fine to go with something cheaper, you'll just get less life out of the cutters.

You need to make yourself a template the exact size of your mortise and plunge in with the router. The template will look roughly like this. The cleat on the bottom of the template in that image is not strictly necessary; it's fine to just clamp your template to your work piece. Any scrap piece of plywood is fine for a template. MDF works well too, but is softer, so I wouldn't recommend it if you want to use this template a whole bunch of times. It can also be a good idea to make two templates - that way if you mess up and run your router into the edge (which can be pretty easy to do), you have a back up.

I've been trying to find a video of someone doing this, but all i'm seeing are people doing things that are way over-complicated. If you're interested in proceeding like this and you want more help feel free to message me with questions. Good luck!

I'm certain this goes without saying, but be certain to get carbide-tipped bits. A teflon coating is probably a good idea too since you'll be running a lot of stock through. Found these:

http://www.amazon.com/Yonico-15227-Matched-Tongue-V-Notch/dp/B00KZM2AIS

Be sure that your router table is well set up with the safety gear in place as well as sufficient infeed/outfeed tables. Spend some time getting your workplace set up so you have an easy and safe workflow (pull stock from here, run it through here while keeping hands in these spots, store the finished pieces there) -- I expect you'll need to do a lot of material, so make it easy on yourself.

Beyond that, this shouldn't be too difficult (just time consuming). Install the floor, sand it in place, finish and you should be good. Post pics when you're done, I'll be interested to see it.

I own a Craftex CX-601, which is a very similar machine to the one you've decided on.

On the vice, I would recommend either buying a vice that someone else owns and can confirm is good...or only buy one you can see in person. I bought a 5 inch Taiwanese vice, and I'm pretty disappointed with the quality of it. It was on-sale, and I figured it would "do fine" while I looked for a Kurt or other super nice unit on Craigslist. Turns out it does "do fine", but the moveable jaw was shimmed instead of machined square. Not good. On my table a 5in vice is a good size, but I probably could have gone with a six. Consider upsizing yours to a 5in vice.

It's worth looking to see if you have any tool shops nearby that carry milling machines, even ones of a different brand. Armed with your machine's measurements you can find a "similar" sized bed on a floor model and see what a 4, 5 and 6in vice will look like. That's what I did before ordering both my mill and my vice size.

All the clamping kits are basically the exact same in the box, probably from the same company. Shop around, you can save even more money:
http://www.amazon.com/Anytime-Tools-Slot-CLAMP-CLAMPING/dp/B007DMLBRE?ie=UTF8&keywords=clamping%20kit%201%2F2%20t-slot&qid=1458758346&ref_=sr_1_6&sr=8-6

http://www.harborfreight.com/58-piece-combination-step-block-and-clamp-set-3-8-eighth-inch-16-nc-studs-1-2-half-inch-clamps-5952.html

I own that end-mill set, very happy with it.

You have two edge finders listed, a Mitutoyo edge finder and a Fowler edge and centre finder. You only need the one combo unit, and this Mitutoyo is cheaper: http://www.amazon.com/Mitutoyo-050103-Center-Finder-Diameter/dp/B002SG7PPM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1458758586&sr=8-1&keywords=edge+and+center+finder

You are missing a holder for your horizontal dial indicator, which I'm presuming you're ordering for squaring up your head to the table, and your vice to the table. The magnetic base you have is great for checking run out of the spindle, and movement of the work, but not ideal for squaring up the head. I started with a clamp like this:
http://www.amazon.com/HHIP-4401-0401-Universal-Indicator-Holder/dp/B01BHHY92E?ie=UTF8&keywords=universal%20indicator%20holder&qid=1458759060&ref_=sr_1_21&sr=8-21
Which I wasn't too happy with. It works, but it's pretty easy to upset the clamp alignment and you have to start over. I have since ordered this unit: https://www.accusizetools.com/egaa-z986-zero-set/ but haven't had a need to re-square my head or vice yet. Doesn't look like it's available on Amazon though.

I notice the mill you're looking at has the option to add the X-axis power feed for $299. If you can stretch the budget, definitely go for it. I figured I would "add one later" and even though I still plan on doing so, man am I cranking away on that handle a whole lot.

It's not cheap, but I find this set of drill bits to be quite handy: http://www.amazon.com/Woodtek-928828-Boring-Machinist-Titanium/dp/B008RE2CSY/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1458759539&sr=8-6&keywords=115pc+drill+bit+set

Deep clean your games.

To do this I would recommend a deep clean. These games have 25+ years of dust build up and corrosion from people blowing in them. And simply dusting it out might not be enough.

To deep clean the games you will need to open them up this can be accomplished with a 3.8 security bit screwdriver. You can get those here from amazon for a few bucks. After it’s opened gently remove the chip and wipe out the inside of the cart with some isopropyl alcohol to remove any dust inside and set it aside. Then move to the game contacts these are the gold slips at the bottom of the game. Dip a q-tip in the isopropyl alcohol and firmly scrub the contacts until the q-tip stops getting a dark color. Use as many q-tips as you need.

After that there should still be some alcohol on the contacts. Use a pencil eraser on the contacts and firmly rub off any hunk that might have built up. I found the pink rectangular ones work best.
Next take a magic eraser and buff out the last of anything remaining on the contacts. Do this to both sides and then take a paper towel and some alcohol and gently rub off any dust or eraser markings left behind. Let everything dry for a minute or so and the put the game back together.

If doing that doesn’t solve the issue it’s a problem with the 72 pin connector. Turn the NES upside down and use a Phillips head screw driver to remove the 6 screws on the bottom so you can lift the top off. After that remove the silver heat shield there are 2 screws on the left 2 at the back and 3 or 4 on the right side. Once that’s off blast the insides with compressed air to get all the dust out that has built up. After a good dusting remove the tray and 72 pin connector there are 3 screws on either side with the middle screw being longer then all the other screws. Side the tray foreword and up to remove them pull the 72 pin connector off the back.

You can bend the pins back up or boil it to clean it if you don’t want to buy a new one or really care about having all Nintendo parts ( if so let me know and I’ll explain how to do that as well), but I personally usually just replace it at this point. If you don’t really plan on using your NES very often you can get a basic 72 pin connector on amazon for $10.00. If you play it often you might look into upgrading to a Blinking Light Win it’s more expensive but it’s designed so you don’t push down on the game and loosen the pins so it should last much longer and it will circumvent the region lock chip. Personally I love mine.

I think that’s everything. Let me know if you need to know anything else. Good luck with the repairs

So I have recently started doing my own scale work. It is quite fun but can be tedious work with how precise you MUST be for drilling screws or the knife wont go back together properly. Blade centering can be screwed up etc.
Anyways the main tools that I use are as follows:

Skil Drill press

Dremel 4000

Dremel Shaper Table

Swivel Benchtop Vise

You will still need other assorted accessories like sanding wheels, cutting wheels (if you dont have a table saw for cutting down G10/Wood/Whatever media). While I am not a pro and I am just starting these are the essentials. Please feel free to PM me or email me hd600s@gmail.com if you have any other questions. I would be more than happy to help. It is extremely rewarding when you complete a set. The first few may not be perfect but you MADE them yourself :)

The only 2 I have successfully completed. I still need to work on my pattern technique

Sure!

A planer is essentially just a really big two flute router bit with removable blades that can also be adjusted.

Get yourself a two flute straight edge plunger bit, (something like this), and put it in your router. Make sure your bed is setup properly to mimick a jointer setup, then hold the board flat to the table, and push into the router wall a little bit, and you'll get a clean edge suitable for jointing.

It's effectively a planer on its side. I really like it because I prefer the motion of pushing compared to a planer but that's just me.

Sadly, using this method, you're bits will wear uneven over time and you'll start to notice that your joints aren't perfectly 90, so you'll have to replace the bit. But in all honesty, planer blades wear too (people just don't notice as easily since you can't pick up the blade and compare it to a straight edge compared to a bit) and they're probably the same cost as a new bit to get sharpened professionally or replace.

There are router jigs that are really cool you should google. I don't use them but i really want to try them out. They help remove a lot of the pressures and help give you a straight edge to work with.

Youtube is your friend!

I bought this set ( http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00KZM2Z6A/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1425627797&sr=8-1&keywords=yonico&pi=AC_SX200_QL40&dpPl=1&dpID=51nZHmFaV9L&ref=plSrch ) and have been very happy with them so far. I did a lot of research before deciding on these and am glad that I went with such a large set. The set gives you the ability to experiment with a lot of bits and figure out what you like. As others will say you can always find the ones you use most often and upgrade those to the more expensive brands. This set is great to start with if you're like me and buying bits and experimenting with a router for the first time like I was. I can't tell you how many times I've wanted to try new things and hoped that I would have the bit I needed and found out that I did.

Assuming you are starting from the ground up and need everything, it's going to be tight and you'll have to skimp in some places, but this is exactly what I would do. The grand total here is $5005.00 and that includes shipping on the big ticket items which is a few hundred dollars.

Table saw and related stuff:

[Grizzly G0715xp] (http://www.grizzly.com/products/10-Hybrid-Table-Saw-with-Riving-Knife-Polar-Bear-Series-/G0715P)

Freud Premier Fusion

[Freud SD208] (http://www.amazon.com/Freud-SD208-8-Inch-Professional-Dado/dp/B0000223O9/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1395407011&sr=8-1&keywords=freud+sd208)

Gr Ripper 3d advanced (awesome on the router table too

Make your own ZCI's

Table Saw Total - $1,142

Jointer

Grizzly G0654 6" jointer (sell this on craigslist when you can upgrade to the 8". They hold their value really well and sell fast)

Jointer total $534.00

Planer

Dewalt DW734 - $399.99 most places. The 735 is nice, but not that much nicer. If I were to upgrade beyond the 734, I'd go for a 15" stationary unit.

Miter saw

Definitely go craigslist on this one. These things are a dime a dozen there. You can get a sliding 12" Dewalt/Makita/Ridgid, etc for around 250.00 to 300.00 Also pick up a decent Irwin Marples or Diablo blade

SCMS total - ~320.00

Bandsaw:

Craftsman BAS350. I own this. It's the SAME EXACT saw as the Rikon 10-321, just 200.00 cheaper. 8" resaw capacity and no stupid riser blocks to fuck up the geometry of your saw and make tensioning a nightmare.

Bandsaw Total - 620.00 with the Rikon resaw fence (bolt on) and a few timberwolf blades

Harbor Freight 2hp Dust collector, a lot of hoses, blast gates, and material to mod it to a 2 stage cyclone - 400.00

Router(s)

Bosch 1617 with both plunge and fixed bases

MLCS 15 bit set. Not the best, but better than absolutely anything else in this price range. Replace bits with Whiteside or Amanna when you have the cash.

Router and bits total 200.00

Also make your own table and fence to fill the empty space in your table saw.

Sanding

{Milwaukee 6021-21 Random Orbit Sander. Best ROS on the market until you go Festool/Ceros

Some klingspor abrasives in different grits

Shop vac bucket max and a 5gal bucket - perfect for sanders

Ridgid oscilating spindle sander. This is a tool I could definitely not live without after owning.

Sanding total - $320.00

Drill Press

Porter cable floor press

Also get the Porter Cable Forstner bit set and some decent brad points/twists)

Drill Press/bits total - ~$420.00

Clamps

Jorgensen Cabinet Master 4pc Set and various other bar clamps. The Pittsburgh ones from HF are pretty good

Clamps total ~ $250.00

Misc stuff

Woodriver bench chisels.

A vintage stanley block plane, and a jack plane

some plywood/melamine, and cheap hardwood and hardware to make a cross cut sled, router table/fence. drill press table, a workable bench/outfeed table and a grizzly woodworking end vise

Misc total - ~400.00

I would agree with the previous replies - good value router bits will be inherently good quality. Poor router bits will be a nightmare to work with and not last nearly as long as the higher quality ones.

My personal favorite is Whiteside and if you're looking for a set you might start with this. I've also heard good things about Freud and CMT. If you're on a tight budget you may consider something like Woodriver or Grizzly.

As others have said, you probably want to buy bits as you need them instead of a full set you may or may not use. I'm not sure what specific bits you're looking for in terms of radius etc - you'll have to see if it's more cost effective to purchase individually or as a starter set.

One final comment - I would strongly recommend getting 1/2" shank bits instead of 1/4" shank bits if possible. They'll last longer and provide smoother cuts through improved heat capacity and reduced vibration.

Edit: If you're willing to do some reading, check out this article. It's a torture test of the most popular brands and discusses their performance in several different woods and cutting scenarios.

Good idea for the spacer. I actually had to make my router sled two sided. One side had rails that were one layer thick, the other had two for the thicker stock. So if the boards were too thick for the side with one layer, i could take it down to that size first.


The sides were supposed to be about .065 to about .080 inches thick i was closer to about .055 to .060 in thick. Thin enough to bow out a bit eventually, even though bending adds structure. This was the first thing I did so I didnt quite have the technique down. I found the key was to take small even measurements, as well as to measure often and since i hot glued the pieces down, i had to remember to take into account the dofference that makes, as well as having to sand/scrape away the striations left by the router. I also found that running the router in line with the plunge handles and in very shallow passes helped minimize this.

The back of mine is about 3mm, and I was shooting for about 2.5 final. The front should have been about 2mm, and that ended up about 2.5 the last I measured, but while finishing i actually stripped all the finish off and scraping a bunch to remove gouge marks so I think i emded up closer to my goal anyway.

Forgive the mixture of units, but my calipers went between the two easily and different sources said different things.


This is the bit I used. I boughr it for this project and I have been more that happy with it. If you do make the uke, be sure to practice on scraps for everything you havent tried before. Using the router, you will want to get a card scrapper, it takes care of the srriations in no time.

If it is his first router, I would recommend getting the DeWalt 611PK kit. It is a compact router, but it is pretty powerful for its size. I bought the Bosch recommended in another comment as my first router, and looking back, I wish I had purchased the DeWalt first. I find myself using the smaller router far more than the bigger one. Plus, the entire kit is around $160, so you have plenty of money to get a MCLS bit set and still be way under budget.

Just my 2 cents.

I think they look great! Maybe a relief cut on the underside at each end to make it easier to pick up off a table? Maybe a small cubby that is made to fit a bic lighter? I think these are good as is though.


Did you use a router with a bowl cutting bit? I've been thinking about making rolling trays, ash trays, and maybe a sherlock stand?

This is the thing I'm talking about

http://www.amazon.com/CMT-851-502-11B-Bearing-Diameter-Carbide-Tipped/dp/B000P4O5ZC

Another point of reference -- I'm assuming you're using the standard 1.5kw/2.2kw spindle. I've been doing 0.9mm DOC, 1000mm/min at 12000rpm using single-flute 12mm CEL cutters in 6061. The shorter flute length is key -- I went through a pack of 17mm CEL cutters on one part, but then cut almost 10 pieces with slightly more aggressive settings using the shorter tools.

Another very important thing is to evacuate the chips in deep slots. I was mostly doing 1/4" aluminum, and I ended up using an air compressor pointed at the cut to blow out the chips reliably at the bottom. I had to use a ton of WD40 to flush out the chips, which is not economical. Standard isopropanol (rubbing alcohol) actually worked just as well, if not better since the evaporation carries away more heat.

Another thing I've been meaning to try is trochoidal milling for cutting out aluminum plates like that. Should save a lot on tool life.

One last hint I forgot -- you need a VERY STIFF machine to go this aggressively! On my little X-carve clone, the best settings I got was 0.25mm DOC, 800mm/min, 20krpm. The "chips" were basically just aluminum dust. The new machine I'm using is an old retrofitted CNC router with linear rails and servos, and actually cuts nice solid chips at these settings.

I LOVE the Bosch 1617 kit. Lowes occassionally has it on sale for $189. There are a few others in that price range that are also worth it I believe.

Some Router tips:
1- NEVER buy a cheap one. An underpowered router, or one that isn't made true will ruin your project. As tempting as a $30 HF router is, all it will do is trash your work.
2- Get one where the fixed base has an adjustment from below the router. This will more easily allow you to make it into a router table down the line.
3- Get something that does a 1/2" shank. 1/4" shank bits ARE available for a lot of things, but you'll break them (and thus whatever they shoot off into, such as projects, tools, body parts) way more often.
4- Get A LOT of clamps. Don't rout anything where you're taking off a lot of material (such as a dado/rabbet) without it being VERY well clamped down. Err on the side of caution, routers can kick back light things really easily
5- This set of bits here: https://www.amazon.com/MLCS-8377-15-Piece-Router-Carbide-Tipped/dp/B000FJRN8S is a good starting place. When you find yourself using one of those bits A LOT, invest in a Freud/Rockler/etc bit.

1/2" is definitely better than 1/4".

As far as router bit sets - I'm generally not a fan of the big sets. You'll get way more than you need, and the bits aren't very high quality.

Do yourself a favor and invest in high quality bits for the basic profiles. Whiteside's 401 set is a great place to start: https://smile.amazon.com/Whiteside-Router-Bits-401-2-Inch/dp/B000AM31QI/

I've used a similar setup to finish end grain slices and gotten best results from a 1 3/4” Freud straight bit. Shallow passes with the bit's big cutting area leaves a pretty smooth finish. Minimal sanding (think 15 mins with ROS) to get rid of faint lines.

Also, make sure the wood itself isn't moving at all. That can produce gouges.

Freud 1-3/4 In. Diameter by ¾ In. Double Flute Straight Router Bit with ½" Shank (12-194) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00004T7CZ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_rtZHzbA2T2QG2

I bought this MLCS set off Amazon as my starter set:

https://www.amazon.com/MLCS-8377-15-Piece-Router-Carbide-Tipped/dp/B000FJRN8S/

It's been fine - I'm now buying better quality bits when I know I need something and I've replaced a couple of these with nicer versions, but for a basic set this has been a good value for me.

I used a 1 3/4" Freud straight cut bit. Something like a Whiteside WS1101 would provide 2” of cutting and be slightly more time efficient I suppose. On this slab the result was pretty good, although given the width of the sled and me leaning over it with too much weight at times, some routes were slightly different. Not much though, but I did give it a 60/100/150 grit belt sand before random orbiting. I used the same process on the maple bench you see in some of the photos. With a smaller sled and not having to lean over the work on the garage floor, the maple top came out damn near perfect and required only finish sanding (there were visible lines on the maple but you couldn't really feel them brushing around with your hand).

What kind of router did you get? And what is the collett size?

I bought this set from amazon and love it. It's got the basics you will need for starting out. And, as /u/snuffvieh said, get specialty bits as you need them. But get the quality ones, then.

As for a router table, I had a cabinet I made and put a router table top, Number 6 plan on this list on top of it. I took the drawer out of the top of the cabinet and put in a tip out. Not the best of plans, because shavings get caught in there really fast.

Needing quick advice on carbide bits, buying today

Which one(s) would you buy and a very brief explanation to why?


This is what I'm looking at:

Amazon:

Hiltex 10100 Tungsten Carbide Router Bits

CARBIDE ROUTER BIT SET - 35 piece 1/4 shank NEW BITS by EDMBG

Router Bit Set- 24 Piece Kit with ¼” Shank and Wood Storage Case By Stalwart (Woodworking Tools for Home Improvement and DIY)

Sears:

Craftsman 30 pc. Router Bit Set

Harbor Freight:

Carbide Tip Router Bit Set 12 Pc

Carbide Tip Woodworking Router Bit Set Pc

Note: I'm intentionally NOT wanting a $120+ starter kit, that's by design. I'm also having to budget for carving tips which are gonna cost about $25 each, if you have a favorite brand you use, let me know - I'm willing to go ahead and splurge a bit more on these bits as I tend on using them far more.

For the top face, you need one of these - https://www.amazon.com/Whiteside-Spoilboard-Surfacing-Router-Shank/dp/B071748JQN

​

And then you need to get your spindle pointing nice and accurately straight down, and you're good.

Well, normally it would be a roundover bit in a router. Dremel does make a roundover bit, but I'm not sure that it's something that could be done well (or safely) freehand without the router base, which you didn't mention having.

http://amzn.com/B00004UDIJ

That being said, if you're not too concerned about precision you could definitely round over the edge with your sander. Will just take some time.

Buy a cheap multi-bit set, like this one to get you started. As you work on projects over time, you'll discover which bits you use and which you don't. As you break/dull bits from use, you'll know which are the important bits and can replace them with better quality individual bits. Also, you'll discover that bits come in 1/4 and 1/2 shanks, so you'll need/want to purchase (if you don't already have one) a collet for the correct size bits.

It's difficult to route out a shape freehand, and keep nice, straight lines. You can either stay inside the lines, and clean it up with a chisel, or make a template and use a pattern bit. With a bit like this, you make the template the exact size of the cut you want to make.

Router sled.

Mine is very similar to this one, though you should probably start smaller to fit the sizes you would commonly work on.

You'll need a full size router and a wide flat bottom bit (I have this one). Wider bits for larger pieces to save time.

No you stick the laminant to the wood first then cut it to size and cut out the sink.

You will need a flush cut bit This allows you to cut the counter a little oversized, stick it to the wood then trim with the router bit.

I just did my first counter like this and it turned out great. I put oak trim on the side with a half inch round edge.

Here is the counter I did last year in my tiny house

And another

It has held up very well and I really like the look. Both countertops and with the wood, glue and the bit was about $120 CDN. Cheaper and way nicer than you can buy IMO.

If you need more detailed steps just let me know.

The roundover bit is the 1/4" one from this set.

The flush trim bit I used is this one.

The flush trimming was hard because it attacked the grain where it was weak. I ended up doing a lot of careful climb cutting to get around the issues, which is no fun. If I were going to produce lots of these, I might give something like this a try. In theory, the shear angle should be a lot friendlier to the wood.

I didn't make the dowel. I usually make my own, but my doweling plate only goes up to 5/8" and since the dowels aren't glued in, getting "close enough" wasn't going to work. I'm sure someday I'll talk myself into a doweling jig like this, but that's a lot to spend on a tool I would basically only use for odd jobs like this.

As it turns out, the commercial dowels I bought aren't that good. The walnut ones are perfect, but the cherry/maple are loose. I have cherry/maple dowel on order from Lee Valley that are supposed to be to tighter tolerances.

It really isn't. Just buy one of these things to open up the cart, pop the contacts off the old battery with a tiny screwdriver or something, slip on a new (obviously same-sized) one, then tape the contacts back on. I've done this for four different cartridges (Mario Land 2 and 3, and Pokemon Silver and Crystal) and I've never had a single problem. (As well, while you have the cartridges open you can (and probably should) also clean off the contact pins)

If I were doing it, I'd make a pattern from a 1/4 piece of MDF by:

1. using an adjustable circle cutting bit , cut hole in pattern stock
   
2. use a 'pattern bit' in a router, it has a ball bearing that follows the pattern exactly.
   
   it involves some specialty tools, but they are inexpensive and it provides a way to make a perfectly routed circle of very precise dimensions.
   
   here's a video that shows how pattern cutting works with a router

definitely not that. Bosch bits arent even that good, and that price is astronomical. I think that seller is offering it well over retail if I had to guess.

Get 1/2" shanks whenever possible.

I started with this set

http://www.amazon.com/MLCS-8377-15-Piece-Router-Carbide-Tipped/dp/B000FJRN8S/ref=sr_1_3?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1465239946&sr=1-3&keywords=router+bit+set

Its decent, it covers most of the bases without being wasteful with stuff you'll never use.

I have added to my collection with frued bits when I find that I use it alot, roundover, flush trim, straight bits mostly. And then some others that werent in the set.

If you buy ANY woodworking tools. I suggest a table saw (duh), a router and a router table. This is also the set I have that I bought to start with. Seems to be working great

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000FJRN8S/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Uh, pretty sure the pointed end is a "center finder". That's what I use it for anyway.

http://youtu.be/06IGyn84lmE?t=1m23s

That's what Mitutoyo says it is.

You have a good idea too there though, but I don't think that situation comes up enough to warrant slapping one on the back of your edge finder.

The challenge for buying something for someone that likes woodworking is that you don't know what kind of tools they want/need. Not to mention tools tend to be quite a bit more expensive than the price point you mentioned.

You could consider purchasing them something that will come in handy, if not immediately so. Router bits, saw blades, drill bits, or wood project packs are all something that would see mileage.

Here's a couple ideas from browsing Amazon.

Rosewood Cutting Guage

[Crown Marking Knife] (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001V9KOTQ/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=1XH9ERR8QY3ND&coliid=ILFECPNG7H6C1)

[Router Radi Guide] (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0040BNLRO/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=1XH9ERR8QY3ND&coliid=I1EHDP8Y8SGNEO)

[A Flush Trim Bit for Patterns] (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000225XQ/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pd_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=1XH9ERR8QY3ND&coliid=I1TEA98C23FQ2D&psc=1)


Edit: I should point out that not everyone may agree with this list. This is just stuff that, in my experience, is either a Quality of Life type item or something that people have to buy as bits tend to wear out, etc.

MLCS 8377 15-Piece Router Bit Set with Carbide-Tipped 1/2-Inch Shanks https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000FJRN8S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Wr2SybQJ8VEMY

I saw this set recommend in this sub. I have the same router as you and I've been happy with them.

I got this cheap set first (on sale for $30 now).
I'll purchase the more expensive Whiteside ones once I'm comfortable with routing.

I want to say you should buy good quality bits as you need them. However, if this is your first router, you likely don't know what bits you need.

Buy a cheap set, replace the ones you burn through with higher quality freud, lee valley, or eagle america bits.

For $140 you can get a much larger Yonico set. The quality is "decent".

They are only $0.59 cheaper on woot than amazon. Probably not worth the "impulse".

Just last night I was deciding on a set of bits. I compared those, to these http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001S2RAWA/ref=pe_385040_127541850_TE_item

The MLCS set got much better reviews. I ended up ordering those, but I cannot speak to their quality either.

I bought these ones, hopefully they are good? This is my first router.

Yeah, I second this advice. I used this bit with good results the last time I used a router sled. With a 1-3/4" cut, it's about 7-8 passes per foot depending on how much overlap each pass.

I am current doing a good amount of slab flattening with a different set up with ho hum results. Is this the kind of bit you use? http://www.amazon.com/CMT-851-502-11B-Bearing-Diameter-Carbide-Tipped/dp/B000P4O5ZC

Update:

Thanks for the suggestion. Seems others have also made this suggestion so I went with this MLCS kit:

https://www.amazon.com/MLCS-6077-Woodworking-Carbide-tipped-15-Piece/dp/B001S2RAWA/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1504242971&sr=8-5&keywords=mlcs

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001S2RAWA/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You can see the bits in the secondary images, the one I used was the first on the left in the second picture. If you zoom way in here you can sorta see how it came out: https://i.imgur.com/XNPFuOW.jpg

I think I have that same router, the key I've found is to just practice the hell out of whatever you're doing on scrap before you actually do anything. I'm sure the 1/4" is slower than a hypothetical 1/2" would be, but it's always given me good results.

If you go the sled route you will wants big dish bit to make quick work of flattening the top. Plus the smooth surface is from the dish bit, you won't get the same results from a straight bit. I think this is the bit I used http://www.amazon.com/CMT-851-502-11B-Bearing-Diameter-Carbide-Tipped/dp/B000P4O5ZC

These keep popping up as recommended bits. I got a set, but haven't used them much. Seem fine and a decent price for a decent selection.

You could use a flush trim bit with a bottom bearing, like this one.

Good starter bit sets: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000FJRN8S?keywords=mlcs%20router%20bit%20set&qid=1449426804&ref_=sr_1_1&sr=8-1

I can't speak for others but I def use a round over bit the most. For that, I use the freud roundover quadra http://www.amazon.com/Radius-Rounding-Over-Bit-Quadra-Cut/dp/B00004T7FL/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1449426867&sr=8-1&keywords=freud+roundover+bit

It's just a set of bits for a router, not particularly rare, fancy or expensive. New set would be 40-100 my guess http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000FJRN8S/ref=s9_top_hd_bw_bD4kJ_g469_i3?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=merchandised-search-4&pf_rd_r=0854NJ7BABDQGVB3ZS0H&pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_p=e3873ec3-2071-56f1-b304-96ab142fe7ba&pf_rd_i=3116511 put them on craigslist or ebay and I'm sure some woodworker will pick them up.

Are you using a proper surfacing bit in the router? It makes a huge difference in this application. Here's a cheap one that I can't vouch for, Magnate 2705 Surface Planing ( Bottom Cleaning ) Router Bit - 1-1/2 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0006B0QX4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_eot.zbAEX7S4E

Ooh, probably not unless you find one that has the little stem instead of a roller bearing. Maybe the kind meant for a dremel tool in a routing base. Does it have to be round, or just not a sharp corner? If you just want to break the edge a hand plane would do it. Lee Valley used to sell a tiny chamfering plane, but I don't see it on their site any more.

Edit to add I found the bit I was thinking of.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00004T7CZ/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_c_api_ztwGybJKHHQHK


My bits are part of this series:

http://www.infinitytools.com/routing/router-bits/carbide/groove-making-router-bits/dado-planer-router-bits

This low cost bit worked surprisingly well for me:


Magnate 2705 Surface Planing ( Bottom Cleaning ) Router Bit - 1-1/2 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0006B0QX4/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_c_api_iNwGybJCQKMXB

Not too sure why you've ruled out a router. Here's a quick example of a straight bit that will go to 2.5" deep. While the flutes may not be 2.5" long, as long as the total bit length is around 3" or more it should be able to reach the full depth with 1/2 an inch being held in the collet. It is still a good idea to hog out the waste with a drill, and take light cuts with the router. The bit that I linked to has an overall length of 4 1/8", which would provide a comfortable amount of shank in the collet.

This bit was recommended in another 'planer jig' thread. I don't own it personally.

Magnate 2705 surface planing bit

Cuttable area
Btw I am using the dual endstops I think that is critical for what I am doing
It makes it much easier to split up jobs or change a bit etc
HQMaster CNC Router Bits, 10 Pack... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07F35WQYG?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
These are the bits I used so far
They measure 3mm with my calipers

Non-mobile: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KZM2Z6A/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1425627797&sr=8-1&keywords=yonico&pi=AC_SX200_QL40&dpPl=1&dpID=51nZHmFaV9L&ref=plSrch

^That's ^why ^I'm ^here, ^I ^don't ^judge ^you. ^PM ^/u/xl0 ^if ^I'm ^causing ^any ^trouble. ^WUT?

You can use a larger bit and just take off less with each pass. Personallyy with flattening a workbench I'd rather be on the side of larger bit, less depth at one time. Here's a decent 1 3/4" flat bottom
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00004T7CZ

I bought this guy


And it rules, all day long.

+router bit set:
https://www.amazon.com/MLCS-8377-15-Piece-Router-Carbide-Tipped/dp/B000FJRN8S

+honing jig:
https://www.amazon.com/WoodRiver-Honing-Guide/dp/B0035Y439C

Make the mallet.

Honing compound: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N20BY2T/ref=psdc_553346_t3_B00HT74364

Combo square:
http://www.harryepstein.com/index.php/12-4-pc-combination-square-metric-fractional-usa.html

Dust mask: https://www.amazon.com/3M-Facepiece-Respirator-6291-Particulate/dp/B000FTEDMM

This is the one I use https://smile.amazon.com/Freud-Double-Flute-Straight-12-194/dp/B00004T7CZ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1542225656&sr=8-1&keywords=freud+straight+router+bit+1+3%2F4

Or:
http://www.amazon.com/Roman-Carbide-DC1261-2-Inch-Cleaning/dp/B005W18EIW

This one is what I used. A lot cheaper than those Amana cutters with inserts.

https://www.amazon.com/Whiteside-Spoilboard-Surfacing-Router-Shank/dp/B071748JQN

I ordered these straight bits lastnight as they were cheap and the reviews are decent. At $20 I'm not going to be too upset if they end up being garbage, but at least I'll have something to practice on and get familiar with the router. I have this bit in my cart for order later today- this is the bit I'll actually need for the project I posted about. Is this one decent for the price? Mind you, as of now I won't be using these a bunch so I don't think I really need contractor quality bits that would see daily wear as it's not really in the budget currently.

http://www.amazon.com/Dia-Top-Bearing-Flush-Trim/dp/B0000225XQ?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=ox_sc_act_title_1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

http://www.amazon.com/Trademark-Stalwart-Multi-Purpose-24-Piece-Router/dp/B000X47YDE

Most recommended reviews say they are cheap and possibly dangerous.

Take a piece of MDF, cut a circle in it with a hole-saw or a jig-saw. Use this type of bit in the router. The bearing follows your template.

I'm struggling with setting up a jib for cutting dados with a router.

I'm using 3/4" ply and want to cut a 3/8" deep dado. I followed this guide and bought this router bit, but it seems way too deep. What bit should I buy to make this work?

Gotcha--regarding the router sled setup--if you're unhappy with the finish, try using a bowl bit. I've got one of these monstrosities, and the rounded corners seem to make tearout less of a possibility, although I'm generally not using mine for end grain . I DO, however, use it for guitar bodies, and I'm generally fairly picky about marring the surface, since my router is used for final thicknessing.

new Drill press - Craftsman 12" $189

used table saw - Ridgid $250 http://denver.craigslist.org/tls/5299905704.html

new Dewalt miter saw 12" home depot $279

(2) new Sears plunge router 2.5 hp #27860 $130 each $260

used band saw http://denver.craigslist.org/tls/5306628654.html $150

new Milwaukee sawzall/drill kit http://www.homedepot.com/p/M12-12-Volt-Lithium-Ion-3-8-in-Cordless-Drill-Driver-Hackzall-Combo-Kit/206284103 $99

(2) Dewalt orbital sander http://www.sears.com/dewalt-5-in-random-orbit-sander-kit-with/p-00926349000P?prdNo=1&blockNo=1&blockType=G1 $50 each $100

new kreg pocket hole kit $99

used Delta jointer $225 http://denver.craigslist.org/tls/5262033510.html

(4) new pipe clamp fixtures $11 each plus $25 for the pipe $70

(2) new Irwin clamp sets $33 each $66 http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=quick+clamp+12%22&rh=i%3Aaps%2Ck%3Aquick+clamp+12%22

new 15 piece router bit set $45 http://www.amazon.com/MLCS-8377-15-Piece-Router-Carbide-Tipped/dp/B000FJRN8S/ref=sr_1_4?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1448998111&sr=1-4&keywords=router+bit+set

new jig saw $60 http://www.sears.com/porter-cable-pce345-6.0-amp-orbital-jig-saw/p-SPM7634045028?prdNo=7&blockNo=7&blockType=G7


That should put me around $1800 - the rest would be spent on sandpaper, blades, screws, work bench etc.

1. buy a half in router, the 1/4" ones are mostly useless. Check craigslist
   
   
2. buy this set of router bits, I don't think there's a better deal out there
   
   
3. feed left to right, as you face the edge you're cutting
   
   It's not hard. I use a Makita RD1101 bought used, which I like because the grip allows me to keep pressure on top the the piece I'm cutting.

I used a 1 3/4 flat bit and took off between 1/8 and 1/4 per pass, sometimes more in particularly high spots. The slab started out very wavy!

Next time I would use longer rails, both for the sled to ride on and for the sled itself, I kept having to move the slab and rails around to get at different areas and it was a pain.

I've ordered this bit based on the recomendation of some people on this subreddit: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0006B0QX4/ref=pe_385040_30332190_TE_3p_M3T1_ST1_dp_1

There's also a 2.75" but that just sounds kind scary (http://www.amazon.com/Magnate-Surface-Planing-Bottom-Cleaning/dp/B0006B0QXO/ref=pd_bxgy_hi_img_y)