(Part 2) Reddit mentions: The best network & cable testers

I will write up some more specific feedback because I am interested in seeing the Pockethernet get better, and thanks for telling me about long-pressing the measure button.

To be clear though, I wasn't comparing the Pockethernet to the AT 2000. I was comparing it to the Fluke MicroScanner 2 for $440 which I own, and the T3 Net Prowler for $730, which I might have purchased instead of the Pockethernet.

Hardware criticisms:

Make sure all internal connectors are fully seated. My battery came unplugged. Make sure that the plexiglass protection film is removed. And at least in my case, the plastic on the wiremap/loopback tester is so loose that I had to take it off to use the tester.

App Bugs (iPhone):

I experience frequent crashes. Usually it seems when I leave and return to the app, or when I save results to Dropbox using the "Send" feature. This has persisted from an iPhone 6s Plus, to a brand new installation on a brand new iPhone X.

There is also a bug where the bottom half of the app disappears, or becomes covered in a white rectangle, and I am no longer able to scroll. This might be from the app trying to hide itself where the keybaord appears. Only way to fix is to quit and relaunch the app. Very frustrating.

App Workflow:

App flow should probably be like this: First HOME screen is a grid of icons for PRESET TESTS and an icon for a CUSTOM TEST. PRESET TESTS should be user-defined groups of frequently run tests. They should be icons, because that way more fit on the screen. Clicking on a PRESET TEST should take you to the RESULTS screen.

The RESULTS screen should only show the test results of the tests you just ran. It should have some persistent icons at the bottom of the page, that include a couple of selectable PRESET tests, as well as RETEST, CUSTOM, and HOME. This will make it easy to always quickly run a test.

The RESULTS screen should have the option to save results to a DATABASE. Often I will run additional tests for an outlet in the future, and I want the ability to EXPORT all of the tests from one outlet together, not have a separate PDF for each group of tests I ran on each outlet. The PDF export should only show the results of tests that were run.

If you instead clicked CUSTOM TEST on the HOME screen, you should be taken to a grid of icons with all possible tests. Check your desired test icons, click TEST, and be taken to the same RESULTS page as before.

There should be an interface for viewing the test results in the database, and deleting of specific tests for specific outlets.

This would make the Pockethernet interface much closer to Fluke's, Ideal's, and T3's interfaces, and much more useful.

Thanks!

Flukes are the gold standard- he just linked you to an ancient model. A simple model like this one is what you want. I not only tests the cable (including 10/100/1000 speeds), it also comes with a toner to trace a cable in your infrastructure as well as the ability to handle PoE and POTS (Plain Old Telephone Service). There are definitely fancier models, but this one is adequate for what you listed.

The fiber testers are much more expensive, though they are fantastic. At the very least, you could afford a visual fault indicator which uses an incredibly bright laser that you can easily see with the naked eye at the termination in the cable (even over long distances- we routinely use them at 2000+ feet for our infrastructure testing).

For bigger shops with more runs, like ours, a visual inspection kit like this one is indispensable for checking your terminations and troubleshooting.

Your budget is too low for it, but this guy is what we normally use in conjunction with the visual inspection kit. There are cheaper fiber testers out there, but they tend to cost a lot more than the copper one I linked. If you absolutely need a full range fiber and copper tester, one like this should work. I'm not sure if that model comes with a remote end unit, but that would be worth getting as well.

All of the higher end testers can output your results as a report via the Fluke software on workstations.

When I was a field tech, mostly working with structured cabling and networking equipment I took the following along with me, some of these things are no longer needed with VOIP phones though:

• Klein Scissors, great for working with cabling. http://www.amazon.com/Klein-2100-7-Electricians-Scissors-Stripping/dp/B000VL03NC/ref=pd_sim_sbs_hi_2
  
  
• Klein 11-in-1 screwdriver (I actually had two) http://www.amazon.com/Klein-32500-Screwdriver-Driver-Cushion/dp/B0015SBILG/ref=pd_bxgy_hi_text_y
  
  
• Harris puncdown tool ( I think fluke took them over though in quality) the little flip out hook is really useful when doing 66 blocks or panels - something like this http://www.amazon.com/Fluke-D914S-10061810-impact-EverSharp/dp/B000GA6QEI/ref=sr_1_2?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1377872619&sr=1-2&keywords=harris+punch+down+tool (You can get cheaper here, but I burned through the ideal ones pretty fast. The harris ones seemed to last a while).
  
  
• Multimeter (Fluke makes some nice ones)
  
  
• Cable Tester - this will do phone, coax, cat5/6 and isn't crazy priced. You can buy more remotes for it too: http://www.amazon.com/Test-Um-TP300-Resi-Tester/dp/B000J15CEE/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1377872779&sr=8-7&keywords=test+um+cable+tester
  
  
• Tone and probe kit (sends a signal over a cable and you can use the wand to figure out what cable it is. Killer for unmarked cables. You'll probably want to take some jacks and make up your own adapters too) - http://www.amazon.com/Fluke-Networks-PRO3000-Tone-Probe/dp/B000FTADX0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1377872864&sr=8-1&keywords=harris+tone
  
  
• Banjo adapter is nice if you don't want to make your own: http://www.amazon.com/Paladin-Tools-1902-Modular-Adapter/dp/B000099O64/ref=pd_sim_indust_13
  
  
• If you have traditional phone lines to deal with, a buttset (or linemans set) isn't a bad thing to have either.
  
  
• Some coax tools (crimper/stripper)
  
  
• A drywall saw
  
  
• A decent tool bag. I used a generic husky one from lowes.
  
  
• A drill (keep the charger in the bag) and a decent bit set
  
  
• A box of random screws and anchors
  
  
• Bigass roll of velcro
  
  
• Double sided tape
  
  
• ALL the connectors (in bulk)
  
  
• Electrical tape
  
  
• Pull string anytime you fish a conduit or a pain in the ass space, leave a string.
  
  
• Various standard hand tools, spackle isn't bad to have and a putty knife, I had a cheap soldering iron and some basic stuff for it too. Sharpies (a whole pack of them). A level, a tape measure.
  
  
• A label maker! Brother makes a bunch. Label everything!
  
  
• Flashlight. I carried two. One small penlight on myself (streamlight) and one that shared the batteries with my drill.
  
  Obviously this all doesnt go in one bag, but I had mine in my car/truck all the time. It'd be a lot easier in an office.

All I've got for the moment is this guy, I may try and get my boss to order a TDR as that looks like it may be more helpful.

Normally I would agree on a different time but the 2-7 time was chosen because this is when the issues tend to occur, making it a lot easier to trace the source. I also would like to avoid walking across our residents' roofs while they are trying to sleep. Sounds like mapping it out is the best place to start.

SOLVED
Thanks everyone! I bought a proper punch tool and all the other tools for only $15 on amazon, worked great! Network cable tester was a lifesaver as well.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CSWF2CL/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

> So for the RJ45s that I want to remain as telephone I should not mess with those at all then.

Correct. From the picture, it seems the end in the wiring panel are numbered. I suspect they will also be marked behind the face plate (or possibly on it). If not, you'll probably need to get something like this to help figure out which wire is which.

> For ones I want internet I should disconnect them from the telephone block, terminate them with RJ45 plugs, and stick them and my new modem (connected to one of the like 8 coax plugs that are in that main box) into a switch. Then make sure my other ends at the sockets are terminated for RJ45.

If your 'new modem' is actually a modem / router combo, yes. If there are few enough ports around the house that you wish to convert to ethernet, you could even bypass a switch and plug directly into one of the four RJ45 ports on the back of your modem / router.

> That should also allow me to place the wireless router wherever there is a RJ45 plate.

I would absolutely not recommend using a wireless router if your goal is just to bolster a WiFi 'weak spot' in the house. Incorrectly configured, they can cause a lot of headaches, and the wireless radios in them are often subpar (especially if you stick to cheaper routers). The Ubiquiti UAP-AC-Lite is the go-to wireless access point 'round these parts right now (I own one myself). If you don't need to connect any other wired devices, you could even do one of these, which completely replaces the RJ45 wall plate with a nice unobtrusive device. If you wish to add WiFi coverage and connect one (or more) wired devices at a specific network port, a gigabit network switch connected to the port would work -- this will let you connect a WAP + your wired devices.

Ended up researching into a bag and eventually found one I think will work well.

I will link to everything I've found on amazon. I have found others on our distributors website. Hopefully this will help others put together something as well!

Bag

SATA Adapter

Toolkit

Toner/Fox and Hound

Small LED Flashlight

Velcro Wire Ties - Zip ties are awful

Network Kit

External HDD

Analog Phone - For testing Fax Lines mainly

There's more, such as cables and things, but everyone should be OK with figuring that out for yourselves. Total the kit (with cables and stuff included) is only about $370.91 per technician.

Hope this helps someone!

> If I'm lucky, the field outlet will be labelled. If it's not, and I want to pair test back to the patch panel, there is an awful lot of guessing involved back at the rack to find the right switch/patch panel port.

This is what your toner is for.

> The F-Set is useless as far as I can tell in this scenario, because if the circuit is connected all the way to the switch (which it most often is), it is shorted and I just get a constant error tone from the F-Set.

You might try carrying around a tiny 5-port ethernet switch to connect to the port to see if it gets link.

> I came across an ad for this Shark Jack thing, first time I knew this kind of thing existed. Does this, or anything like it, make it possible to report the switch port number to me in the field?

You don't want that device. That's a network security analyst's device.

You want something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/NETSCOUT-LSPRNTR-300-LinkSprinter-Distance-Indication/dp/B00UD6G2OY/

A brief disclaimer:

The LinkRunner and LinkSprinter products were developed by Fluke Networks, and are/were excellent devices.

Fluke sold that entire business unit to NetScout like 8 or 9 years ago.

A year or so ago, NetScout just sold the business unit to a Private Equity firm, and nobody knows for sure exactly what is going to happen.

But even if the company goes belly-up, they are still good products, and should keep on working even if the company dies or re-brands again.

> invest in a quality cable tester with a digital readout

The one I ordered indicated to me that there's likely an open circuit on pins 4 and 8. All it does is send a signal down each of the 8 pins individually. On pins 4 and 8, I got a very brief blip on the LED. Also, if I disconnected the receiver end, as the emitter cycled through each pin, 4 and 8 would light up (the others would not, since the receiver piece was not connected).

That tells me either that 4 and 8 (presumably blue and brown?) are shorted together, or that there's a break in both those wires. Per the manual, if the LED does not light up (with both emitter and receiver connected), that should indicate an open circuit, but I'm not sure how to interpret what I'm observing when I have the receiver disconnected.

I'm hoping that re-terminating on keystone jacks will resolve the issue. Otherwise, I'll want to find a better tester that can indicate the distance to the line break. I can also use a multimeter to check continuity of all the wires once my keystones arrive and I cut off the RJ45 connectors.

Would you please point me in the right direction for a tester that can indicate distance to a break?

The difference between a really dirty connector and a broken fiber are how easy the fix is. You should probably clean the connectors just to be sure. SCs are easy to clean (relatively). Can you swap the cables? At this point your troubleshooting looks like it should if these were electrical. Unless you already have — or are willing to invest in specialist equipment — you should verify the integrity of the cables, swap them out, and then replace the switch if that doesn't work.

I bought a Wire Tracker and I'm pretty happy with it.

Got one with the "scanning" feature figuring maybe someday it would come in handy, and I would up using it right off the bat. It's really nice to be able to find out which out of several cables you're working with, or to confirm that the cable does indeed make it from one end to the other intact.

I'd advise asking over in /r/hometheater. I have a pretty good idea what you'll need to do (though I can't see the pics here at work) but those guys know their zoned music systems. Are the cables/connectors labeled or are they just sporadically strewn throughout the house?

Edit: Now that I know which sub I'm in (I think that I thought it was /r/homeimprovement) do you have a wire tracer? They're great for any and all wiring jobs. I have something similar to this one because I mostly use it for low voltage, but with the alligator clips it works fine for electrical wiring and, in this case, speaker wires.

Handi-Foil 1/2 Half-Size Sheet Cake Disposable Aluminum Baking Pan Tins (pack of 10) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01IWKS7M2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_C6v3Db42VRY1F

Something like these. You can get two racks of ribs in each one and I can fit 3 of them on my smoker pretty easily.

Grab something like this. It won't tell you much about the quality of the lines, but for $10 you can easily check that all eight wires go from point A to point B.

It's a nice first place to start, because it's quick, and if it shows an issue you don't need to waste time on anything subtle. I also use mine to check patch cables whenever something is wonky.

This Patch panel is wall mounted just like yours, and has 12 spots available. It's hard to tell how many cables you have exactly but that would be a good start.

You would mount it just like the one in your picture, but it would give you an ethernet port on the front. You would take those ethernet ports and attach them to a switch with a CAT5e or above cable.

The tools you'll need to do this are:

• Ethernet tester - This is to test the ethernet cables you create to make sure they're correct.
  
  
• Punchdown tool - This is to punch the wires down to the patch panel I linked above.
  
• Labeler - Realistically you can use a sharpie and just write the names on the wires. Don't buy a $200 labeler unless its something you'll use often, I just wanted to give an example of what I use.
  
• Analog wire toner - Use this if you need to find the wire in that rats nest.
  
  You would realistically cut all the wires off the block and use the above tools to make them into ethernet ports.

you can, but you're going to need a much better toner than that. Something more like this:

https://www.amazon.com/Fluke-Networks-CIQ-KIT-CableIQ-Generator/dp/B00Q6Y0LIA/ref=sr_1_7?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1526909090&sr=1-7&keywords=fluke+network+tester

First thing's first. Inspect the termination on both sides. The majority of problems aren't going to be somewhere in the middle of the cable unless it's something super obvious like a rat eating through it. If you're strapped for cash there are ultra cheap $10 cable mappers out there that don't tell you anything other than which pin goes to which other pin. There are also decent $20 toners with a wiremap built in.

With some cheap tools and actually inspecting the termination you should be able to identify the majority of issues. If all you're trying to do is get a reliable gigabit link it's good enough. If it's terminated to spec, then don't worry about it.

A plus side to cheap tools, you can buy a couple so even if it starts getting flaky on you you can just swap it out.

https://www.amazon.com/CT01-Multifunction-Telephone-Collation-Continuity/dp/B01N7KD6A2/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1518207212&sr=8-4&keywords=cable+tester

You're welcome. Paladin (and their cheaper entry-level Datashark brand) also has some decent offerings if you want something more "name brand" but still inexpensive.

Paladin:

Crimpers

Stripper

Tester

The Paladin stripper works really well; I think I prefer that one to the cheap Monoprice one I purchased (though it gets the job done). Both are adjustable for different thickness wire / sheathing.

Datashark:

Crimpers

Striper

Tester

The Datashark crimpers lack a ratcheting mechanism, so I'm not a huge fan of them, but a coworker owns a pair and they work fine. The testers from both are nearly identical, and don't really offer any more functions than the cheap no-name import ones do (except perhaps a better warranty).

http://enterprise.netscout.com/network-testing/linkrunner-network-connectivity-tester

I have the version of this made by fluke. Works great and can also test cable runs and has some other nice features.

this is a cheaper option: https://www.amazon.com/NETSCOUT-LSPRNTR-300-LinkSprinter-Distance-Indication/dp/B00UD6G2OY/

https://www.pockethernet.com/ will do cable test as well as a bunch of other stuff. I use one and like it also have a netprowler https://www.amazon.com/T3-Innovation-Prowler-Cabling-Advanced/dp/B01DGDGCN6 it does a good job too. The pockethernet is alot more convient just keep it in my laptop bag.

Right, exactly! Would I love to have a network analyzer that does 10 Gig, Cat7 certification and more? Yessss. Do I want to spend used BMW money on it? Noooo

This is the voltage detector pen that I was telling you about, /u/achstuff:

​

Klein Tools NCVT-2 Dual Range Tester, Non Contact Tester for Standard and Low Voltage with 3-m Drop Protection

​

These are the RJ-45 Ethernet jacks that I use:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B079K7XMGQ/

​

This is the crimper that I use (the wires pass through the jacks and then this cuts them)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00939KFOU/

​

And this is the tester that I use:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DQH4XPW/

​

I have some other tools which I can list, but this the base set that you'd want to use to get rolling. The nice part about these particular jacks is that their bin's outside label has the diagram for the T568B standard (which you'll want to use (assuming you're crimping both sides of the cable) unless you're trying to match T568A)

I like this one:

http://www.flukenetworks.com/enterprise-network/network-testing/CableIQ-Qualification-Tester

Amazon link:

http://www.amazon.com/Fluke-Networds-CableIQ-Network-Tester/dp/B00Q6Y0LIA

Are you getting a link indication on the computer?

On Windows 10, goto, Control Panel --> Network and Internet --> Change Adapter Settings

Goto the "View" menu and change to "Details"

Find your Ethernet adapter and tell us what the "Status" is.

Is it "Enabled", "Disabled", or "Network Cable Unplugged"?

If it is Disabled, Right-click it the select "Enable" - I've seen some laptops that have function keys that allow a user to disable it from the keyboard - and some (me included) accidentally disable it. Mostly this happens for WiFi.

If it show Enabled - goto a command prompt and type: ipconfig /all and share that with us.


If it shows, "Network Cable Unplugged," then your initial thought of your Ethernet connection is the appropriate troubleshooting path.


What is the, " Laundry room junction box?" Are you referring to a Patch Panel?


If it is a patch panel to which you are referring , did you trying changing the Ethernet cable from it to the switch?

​

On the switch, are you getting a link light indicator?

​

When you change the switch port to the working computer, do you now get a link light on the switch?


If it really is a bad cable in the wall, you'll probably want to do a visual inspection to see if any of the individual wires have come free (creeped) out of the punch down outlet. If you see one or more has grab a small screw driver and re-punch them down. You may have to remove a plastic cap over the wires to get a visual.


Can you run a cable directly to the switch? If not, can you move the computer near the switch and test directly connected to the switch?


If all things point to it being the cable behind the wall, you can get a testing tool to determine which wire of the cable is errant.

​

You can get a basic "Ethernet Tester" for about $9. But, if I were you and considering you may have more repairs to do, I would opt for something like the following:


https://smile.amazon.com/CloverTale-Installation-Maintenance-Connector-Accessories/dp/B07CSWF2CL/ref=sr_1_16?crid=38184207QCRIG&keywords=ethernet+tester&qid=1557468409&s=gateway&sprefix=ethernet+test%2Caps%2C167&sr=8-16

​

If you find out that the cable is bad, i.e. someone put a screw through it hanging a photo frame. You could possibly use the current "bad" cable as pull string to pull a new cable back to the "Junction Box"


But I digress, and I would recommend running through this troubleshooting flow before jumping to conclusions.


Let us know what you find out.

This is the cheapest one I’d recommend

Docooler 4-in-1 Remote RJ11 RJ45 USB BNC LAN Network Phone Cable Tester Meter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DQH4XPW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_0.zPCb5YJRBKF

Just have to keep good batteries in it otherwise it’ll show everything as fail.


If you have a few bucks more, this is what I’d recommend on the sub $75

Noyafa D3IN0004 NF-308 Network Telephone Audio Cable Length Tester Remote Identifier https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00F5W9GLW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_jfAPCb7MMSJ7F

Past that, then Klein tools are a better deal as they’re are reliable as fuck.

Klein Tools VDV526-052 RJ45 Tester, Continuity Tester, Data Cable Tester, LAN Scout Jr. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004CI9NRM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_RgAPCb5P1B8X6

• basic hand tools: cordless drill, drill bits, driver bits (philips #1 / #2), standard screw drivers, vice grips, channel lock pliers, socket set
  
• specialty screw driver kit - includes small nut drivers (for stand-offs, DB-connector mounting), torx 6-pt, 5-pt, allen/hex
  
• 24" #2 philips screw driver - useful for obstructions in rack mounting (ie vertical PDU mounted too close to the rear rack face, cable management)
  
• roll of velcro
  
• bulk cable: cat5e/350mhz, cat6/500mhz, RG6 quad shield, speaker wire - as needed, I don't carry this stuff everywhere. I do have 10-20m of cat5e stuffed in my tool bag for an emergency patch cord job if necessary.
  
• connectors: RJ45 crimp ends, compression F-connectors, compression RCA connectors
  
• crimp tools: RJ45/RJ11 & coaxial compression crimper
  
• punch tool: 110/66 spring tool
  
• cable cutter: standard electrician's scissors
  
• cable stripper (I like this style )
  
• cable testing: old DSP-100 fluke set, better than a "lights on for continuity" type of tool, gives me distance measurements (neat!)
  
• cable toner - plus I made some adapters for it so I don't damage wall jacks by shoving the RJ11 connector into them (the signal generator only has a set of alligator clamps and an RJ11 connector)
  
• serial cables and adapters: DB9 to RJ45 adapters, a couple of pre-made RJ45-RJ45 adapters, RJ45 couplers, DB9 to DB25, and DB9F/F and DB9M/M adapters. I use this guide for making a "do everything" serial cable setup since there's little consistency in equipment manufacturers
  
• laptop with Kali Linux on it, useful for a serial console (screen /dev/ttyUSB0 9600), wifi scanning/pen-testing/rouge AP locating
  
• DB9 to USB adapter
  
• wifi 802.11ac USB adapter with external antenna connection, dipole 2.4ghz/5ghz antenna and waveguide-style 2.4ghz cantenna
  
• NEMA 5-15R to C14 - lets me plug my laptop in 208v PDU's in datacenters without 120v/utility sockets
  
• P-touch label printer, spare label cartridges
  
• spare batteries for all tools (9v and AA)
  
• packages of cage nuts and matching screws
  
• rack cage nut tool saves those fingers!
  
• box knife & spare razor blades
  
  other tools & spare parts for house work would be
  
  
• fish tape
  
• 36"-long x 1/4" drill bit
  
• stab saw
  
• remodel low voltage gang boxes (ie no back, not nailed to stud)
  
• glow rods / some other locating tool
  
• keystone connectors and wall plates
  
  EDIT: formatting, and some back story - a coworker and I made a "networking tool-kit" that we would ship to job sites prior to travelling. It was useful to have, so I basically recreated it for myself at home.

Thanks for the insight! This one is a tad expensive but seems to include a punch tool too.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01JR50X5K/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A10L0W8BF9BRZI&psc=1

I agree, build you own kit. Below is my take. Know that some of those tools are not for every day use in networking, but who can resist getting more tools? Also, if you get all of these I realize it will be over $200. So, just use this list as a guide not a definitive list.

BAGS

• 5.11 Rush 24 Pack (Should fit all tools): http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002N1G2WY
  
  
• 5.11 Tactical Small Kit tool Bag (for the essentials):
  
  • http://www.511tactical.com/small-kit-tool-bag.html
    
  • http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001A66GDI
    
    
• 5.11 Tactical Shell pouch # x2 in 2 different colors:
  
  • http://www.511tactical.com/shotgun-ammo-pouch-vtac.html
    
  • http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009PTSUUO
    
  • one pouch for rj45 connectors
    
  • one pouch for cage nuts
    
    ETHERNET TOOLS
    
    
• Punch down tool: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000AZK4D
  
• Crimper: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002D3B97U
  
• Network Cable Tester: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DQH4XPW
  
• Cage Nut Tool: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DL09HPU
  
• Wire Stripper: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CJWUEMQ
  
• Ethernet cable stripping tool: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00788LVZA
  
• Coax and Data Cable Cutter: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003S5VE0Y
  
  SCREWDRIVERS
  
  
• Steelex D2023 Magnetic Tip Screwdriver Bit Set 30-piece: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000DD6T9
  
• Klein 32561 Std. Stubby Screwdriver: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005FQDHHC
  
• 15 in 1 Screwdriver: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004VJY99Y
  
• Philips Head Screw Driver with magnetic tip #3: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007ISYR6K
  
• iFixit Precision Screw driver 54bit set: http://www.ifixit.com/Store/Tools/54-Bit-Driver-Kit/IF145-022
  
  PLIERS and WRENCHES
  
  
• Needle Nose Pliers: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000JNNW1M
  
• RoboGrip 7" Wrench Pliers: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000PEPAFQ
  
• Tekton 26-pc Long Arm Ball Hex Key Wrench Set (inch/metric): http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00I5THF4W
  
• Tekton Star Key Set: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00I5THF9M
  
• Craftsman Evolv 3 pc. Adjustable Wrench Set: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0056BJFOK
  
• Tekton Combination Wrench Set (Inch/metric): http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000NQ159G
  
  POWER
  
  
• 1.8" LCD 20+4-pin Power Supply Tester w/8/6/4-pin Connectors: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001MKCALY
  
  MISC
  
  
• CRKT 3 inch folding Knife: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0017UV9W0
  
  
  SUPPLIES
  
  
• Pack of 100 RJ45 connectors: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BS92DCK
  
• 75ft Role of velcro: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0069FJR2M
  
• Electric Tape: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00004WCCL
  

I used to bring my own tools because i liked working with non-shit-tier equipment.

Then the CEO found out that i was bringing my own tools.

So the CEO ordered they buy a good set so i would stop doing that, and told me not to buy things for work on my own dime.

One thing i did decide to keep on-site of my own though was my network cable tester. It's so much better than what got bought for the department. It's a Fluke Networks CIQ-100 Cable Tester, and no i did not pay anywhere close to the insane prices they run now.

I have this and used it for the exact same thing and it worked flawlessly.

As for checking things once they're wired, I found this to be invaluable:

http://www.amazon.com/Paladin-Tools-1574-Testing-Installed/dp/B0002W3A6M/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1321384678&sr=8-5

amazon + paladin

http://www.amazon.com/Paladin-4909-SureStrip-Non-Impact-Punchdown/dp/B0008F5VA6/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1323570620&sr=8-4

http://www.amazon.com/Paladin-Tools-1574-Testing-Installed/dp/B0002W3A6M/ref=pd_sim_hi_1

Otherwise you're into the 200+ range.

Did you try google? "cat6 cable certifier"? You might want to consider rental options, they can be kind of expensive.

When in doubt Tone it out.

From there if nothing else you will be able to build a map as to where everything goes. Find out if red really is telephone or perchance crossover and you can clean up this mess without guessing.

If they're already plugged in to a switch, get a Linksprinter. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00UD6G2OY

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01JR50X5K/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I recently ordered this - its been working miracles!!

https://www.amazon.com/T3-Innovation-Prowler-Cabling-Advanced/dp/B01DGDGCN6

What he's saying is that even after you make the cable, you have no way of knowing if it meets the Cat6 spec without an expensive cable qualifier. That's how the IT guys make and verify Cat6 cable.

If you need the cable to be Cat6, either buy pre-terminated cable or buy a cable qualification tester.