(Part 2) Reddit mentions: The best pool cleaning tools & chemicals

I think this is what you want.

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=https://www.taylortechnologies.com/Instructions/5136.pdf&ved=0ahUKEwiFrKT1-evTAhUJ8IMKHUKQA-IQFggwMAE&usg=AFQjCNEqEy9ZytogOpqemuuM7g-2aCRzsA&sig2=Vw-GbwyNF3uXrApVRHoetQ

Do the pink and yellow tests daily. The other tests every couple of weeks.

Use an online calculator to help you balance the pool, like this one:
http://poolcalculator.com/?utm_source=www.poolcalculator.com&utm_medium=redirect&utm_campaign=redirect/

Also, learn how to backwash your filters. For your pool, I'm guessing do that every one to two weeks.

I'm a former certified pool operator from Idaho and worked at pools for 20 years, including one 160,000 gallon pool and a 1 million gallon pool. I'm unfamiliar with a chlorine free pool, unless it is referring to a different sanitizing agent like Bromine. Taking care of your pool frequently will help you learn the pool and what tendencies it has. You will probably know when you need to balance the ph or add chlorine. Other things like the alkalinity or saturation index are a little trickier, and you may want to consult someone at a local pool store when those are off (just be aware they usually suggest adding a lot more chemicals than you really need, $$, so the more you learn, the more you will save).

Also, if the water seems cloudy, but all the tests are normal, try getting a pool clarifier. It clumps together all the tiny particles in your pool so that they get caught in the filter. The next day, your pool will be crystal clear. Just backwash after use. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0064E8BL6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_JuVfzbC9Q739H

These are the basics I can suggest. Good luck.

I like the q and e effects... sea shell.. very cute. I also like that she's blonde. The E kind of has a "tye dye" effect when it roots. I like that.

to make it look less like a chroma... 2 ideas so far

I wonder if her staff could have more of a beachy theme... like a pool noodle? Haha what about a pool skimmer



Maybe the "middle part" of her gown could go... off to the side... like a swim suit wrap ladies tend to wear.

> run the water for a few seconds to get it to be clear.

then you should DEFINITELY get a 2 stage system (otherwise you'll burn threw expensive cartridges for nothing) one dedicated to particulates. to determine what unseen contaminants you may have, first buy a water test kit, then get the 2nd stage filter to address what it reveals.

https://www.amazon.com//dp/B002XISS4C/ (if you are not good at following directions PRECISELY then have a friend come over and help you)

look, it really boils down to this - if you simply want a piece of mind placebo, then get the culligan your friends like. if you actually want to know what exactly is wrong with your drinking water, and filter precisely for it's now understood flaws, then listen to the voice of reason...

http://www.cityofws.org/waterqualityreport2014

So when we had the pool opened, the guy from the company pointed out the vacuum port. In addition to 4 standard water returns, we have a 5th that perfectly fits a standard pool hose. He said they used to be the rave, and they're for pool vacuums "but they left you that electric vacuum, so you're not going to need this".

I did some googling, and there are TONS of pressure-style vacuum robots, that run partly or entirely on that piece. But they're all full-automatic, and not the kind of thing I put on a pole.

I get it... Suction's great, and my pool was designed with a hose port under the skimmer, but I used to have one similar to this that was great for larger matter (worms, twigs, etc) that my suction vacuum doesn't handle well... but those use a garden hose to generate their suction, not a pool hose.

It is way easier than you are making it out to be honestly. We bought one about 3 yrs ago and I was in your spot and I seriously got it dialed in really fast. This is what I use to test water every couple days:

https://www.amazon.com/Hot-Spring-Freshwater-Portable-Strips/dp/B00ASYBBWO

I would say here is great place to get questions answered honestly but there is also some forums too. Don't let chemicals scare you it is really easy to do you will see and will look back and say why did I even worry about it :)

Green and Mustard algaecide Swimtrine plus

This works really well. Make sure you shock, use your algaecide and proper filtration. I recommend a 36 hour treatment. Shock, use algaecide and use a wire brush on the mustard algae. After the first 12 hours of running your filter, shock it again. Shock a 3rd time at 24 hours, 4th at 36. After 36 hours, clean your filter out as best as you can.. another thing I’ll include is controlling your phosphates. Not a lot of people mention about phosphates but if you have surrounding trees/bushes that are getting into your pool, it’ll increase your phosphates, which is food for algae. Let me know if you need anymore help !

Edit: forgot to mention; Hasa Phos out works really well at reducing your phosphates. You should add this once the algae is gone.

We've used Pentair/Rainbow ProVac heads for years of our service vans. They do a great job, roll easily and steer well due to the swivel handle. Parts are readily available so we get 5+ years of daily use of 10+ vacuums per day before they need to be replaced. For your pool the 14" head would be a good size (R201276). We tried the ProVac 2 and didn't like it as much.

It's worth noting it's designed for 1-1\2" vacuum hoses, so if you have an 1-1\4" hose you'd have to remove the hose swivel and it won't work as well.

Short of the ProVac, I'd just get a cheap concrete pool vac and plan on replacing every couple years. I'd steer clear of liner vacs as they are a pain to vacuum with and have no benefit in your pool.

Yeah, I've been looking at the "Sunken Treasure" because it seems to have pretty good reviews and appears to be pretty simple to use.

If you can get to a pool store once every other week or so at least, a smaller test kit is fine. The only levels that need adjustment more than every couple weeks/monthly are chlorine, pH, and alkalinity. The salt level, CYA, and calcium/hardness don't change quickly enough (outside of a major rainstorm dumping in tons of fresh water) to warrant weekly testing. I would get a Taylor Troubleshooter K-1004 test kit. If you want to be fancier, or decrease your reliance on the pool store testing, get the Taylor K-2005-SALT kit. It'll test pretty much everything. I personally prefer the 2005 kits over the 2006 kits because the 2006 kits use a powdered first reagent for chlorine that annoys the hell outta me while the 2005 uses all liquid. But what would I know, I've only tested water poolside a few thousand times.

For the fine powder in the pool, you need to vacuum it which will require a 1.5" vacuum hose in whatever length let's you cover the pool from the skimmer and a vacuum head. I could write a few paragraphs on how to use these, but YouTube has numerous videos on how to vacuum a pool that'll show it much better than I could type it.

Your filter is a Hayward Swimclear. Looks like the C1200, but hard to tell which one it is without knowing how tall it is. It has a cylindrical cartridge inside that needs to be cleaned probably every week or two during the season. Again, a video can teach you this better than I can type, so YouTube 'how to clean a pool cartridge filter'. Also, your pressure gauge is busted. Grab a new one next time you're at the pool store. It'll screw off, and the new one will screw on with some Teflon tape on the threads to seal it.

The Aquacal Heatwave is a heat pump that works the same way an A/C does, but in reverse order, to pull heat from the ambient air around it to heat up your pool water. You turn it on, tell it what temp you want the water to be, and give it a few days up to a week to heat the water pretty damned efficiently (compared to a gas fired heater). Some models even have the ability to cool the water down if it gets too warm in the summer. Hard to tell which one you have based on the pics.

As for the main drain in the side of the pool, it's hard to say what exactly it is or for without having better pictures showing more wide angle shots of your equipment pad, and of the whole pool at once.

Having worked in an area where these kinds of pools are really popular, here's what I'd recommend:

Use a basic algaecide like this (or whatever you can find in store that's similarly ammonium chloride based). The benefit of an algaecide is that it'll last longer than chlorine and that kind I linked doesn't require a ton of circulation. And it's cheap.

For your size pool you shouldn't have to put in more than a few cups once a week. You can see from the reviews that people just assume more = better and they end up with a bubble bath. Always read the directions! On that note, wait a day between adding it and any liquid chlorine. Chlorine doesn't distinguish between, well, anything. It'll just eat up your other chemicals if you dump them together (not to mention ammonium bases products or acids + concentrated chlorine = homemade chemical-weapon night night time).

Besides that, a floater with one or two chlorine tablets in it can't hurt during the summer at least. Tablets release chlorine slowly over time whereas the shock just nukes things for a short period. Together they balance each other. Just keep an eye on your PH with that test kit, and you should be golden.

If you cant stand it turn pool pump off and drop this in the water. The debris floating will eventually get filtered out but this stuff works quick to dissapate off the surface for instant gratification. Works best on pollen.

https://www.amazon.com/Jacks-Magic-JMSURFACE02-Surface/dp/B002ZJ1KXU/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?adgrpid=67435490786&gclid=Cj0KCQjw9fntBRCGARIsAGjFq5HHePkQ_wjsgnAjQUVhVzYDVdDIMnM54dSXvwUxfGcFtP6zWBzvwd8aApMpEALw_wcB&hvadid=337853704940&hvdev=m&hvlocphy=9011108&hvnetw=g&hvpos=1t1&hvqmt=e&hvrand=11507065600879403384&hvtargid=kwd-368187027014&hydadcr=4092_9616096&keywords=jack%27s+magic+surface+magic&qid=1572838246&sr=8-1

I don't recommend organic hydro. I've tried it to solve exactly the problem you are dealing with and it just creates other problems. For organic hydro to work conditions must be perfect all of the time or else it goes south incredibly fast, since the conditions are also perfect for pathogens to thrive in. If you want to go organic hydro, you need to do a lot of reading up on biofilters and aquaponics. It can be done but it is not easy and requires a lot of attention to detail. For ease of use and results, sterile hydro is best, but there are a few tricks:

1. You need to get an ORP tester. ORP stands for "Oxidation reduction potential" and is a way to measure the effectiveness of the sterilizer in your system. Without this tool you will always be guessing about how much to add. This tool has totally changed the game for me in hydro. You want to keep an ORP between 400-550 to keep bad things at bay.
   
   
2. You need to get some polyquat to kill the rusty looking stuff since once it's established it becomes quite resistant to chlorine. Polyquat 60 is very concentrated - I use 5 DROPS per 50 gallons and only use it when I have scum to get rid of. I had a 50gal res totally covered in red slime algae and after a simple sponge scrub and some polyquat plus 1mL per 5gallons chlorine bleach, res is bright white and water is crystal clear for over 45 days now. Run a higher concentration of both polyquat and chlorine in between cycles to clean your system.
   
   
3. Zone doesn't work. Stick with the bleach, get the ORP pen, and add a few mL of bleach every 2 days to maintain your ORP between 400-550
   

We bought this one last year and I still praise it. I love the little guy, scrubs, vacuums, etc.

Unfortunately not, you would need to drain just below the skimmer because the stuff needs 12 hours to set. The directions will say it shouldn't be used below a waterline, but we haven't had problems with it. If you don't want to drain the pool you could always try Pool Putty, which is a 2-part epoxy that you mold together with your hands like clay. That stuff can be applied underwater and will cure there as well. We usually use to fill cracks underwater but I'm sure it will hold down a plastic ring too.

I'm all about confirming an issue before trying to resolve it - so you might use a testing kit to check the hardness of your water. Might be overkill - or might be enough to make you feel good about installing a water softener. I saw someone else mentioned the water heater might be full of sediment. I believe you're supposed to drain the water heater every year to help, but those things will build up over time no matter what. A test kit might also let you check your normal cold water - as well as your hard water to see if build-up really is a problem. Good Luck!

These are awesome when you get a ton of leaves....the middle column stays clear to allow water to continue to flow when the basket is getting full.

SkimPro Tower-Vented Skimmer Basket with Tower and Handle https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GSXSII4

Does anyone have any experience with this?

LaMotte 2056 ColorQ Pro 7 Digital Pool Water Test Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002WKK71S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_zZyIDbTAA98EV

I’m a first time pool owner and currently have a pool guy to maintain it over these first few months but will eventually be taken it over myself. I’ve read good things about it but ultimately I’m debating between that and the Taylor 2006c. On paper I like the LaMotte because I don’t want to sit there and match colors to a chart.

Here's what I use for my ~17000gal inground vinyl pool in zone 7 (PA):

• 1 L Metal Free
  
• 4 lbs non-chlorine shock (Leslie's Fresh & Clear)
  
• 1 lb chlorine shock (Leslie's Power Powder Plus) - sometimes less
  
• 1 Qt algae control
  
• 1 L Pool Magic + PhosFree
  
• 1 winterpill
  
  Here's my process:
  
  
• make sure TA is in 120-140PPM range
  
• make sure pH is in 7.4-7.6 range
  
• drop water line
  
• bump filter and drain it
  
• remove ladders, skimmer baskets, jet fittings
  
• toss any tablets that were in chlorinator, drain
  
• blow lines
  
• add 1 L Metal Free
  
• add 4 lbs Fresh & Clear
  
• if free chlorine is between 1-3ppm, add power powder plus to increase
  
• wait a day (high chlorine will kill algaecide)
  
• add 1 qt Algae control
  
• 1 L pool magic + phosfree
  
• put on cover
  
  
  In January/Feb (those weird days where it gets to be really warm) I'll throw in an aquapill under the cover. I forgot to use it this year though, and the water was fine.. but it was a pretty cold winter.
  
  Note: to circulate chemicals after lowering the water, I use my pool cleaning robot. If you don't have one, you can use a submersible pump, with the return hose going right back into the pool.

Not as good as soaking in water with just a tiny bit of bleach. You'd be amazed how little bleach it takes. For a home sink, probably somewhere between and eighth and a quarter cap of bleach, then filled with water. Let the plate soak for 30-60 seconds, and you're done.

Most cities require a 3-compartment sink for wash, rinse, sanitize for their restaurants. I've seen people ignore the sanitize part of the job, which makes no sense. When you're in a commercial setting, it takes such a small amount of extra time to set it up. Many kitchens use alternative sanitizers (including ammonia-based quaternary products), but if you want to try bleach on your own, you can get paper test strips. Again, you'd be quite surprised just how little bleach it takes to be effective.

Yea, if you really want to be sure, just bring a testing kit everywhere you go.

http://www.amazon.com/Watts-Premier-173006-All-In-One-Water/dp/B002XISS4C

https://www.amazon.com/Pentair-R201276-Residential-Commercial-Vacuums/dp/B003840IV6

this is the vac we use in the commercial world, only the 22 inch version

Here's a simple and cheap one: http://www.amazon.com/First-Alert-WT1-Drinking-Water/dp/B000FBMAVQ/

Here's a more expensive and more complete one: http://www.amazon.com/Watts-Premier-173006-All--Water/dp/B002XISS4C/

This is the most purchased one on amazon. Anyone have it? Reccomend it?