Reddit mentions: The best pools, hot tubs & supplies
We found 405 Reddit comments discussing the best pools, hot tubs & supplies. We ran sentiment analysis on each of these comments to determine how redditors feel about different products. We found 246 products and ranked them based on the amount of positive reactions they received. Here are the top 20.
1. HM Digital TDS-EZ Water Quality TDS Tester, 0-9990 ppm Measurement Range, 1 ppm Resolution, 3% Readout Accuracy
- Economy model that is ideal for end-users. Highly efficient and accurate due to its advanced microprocessor technology.
- Hold Function: saves measurements for convenient reading and recording and battery life is approx. 1000 hours of usage and power source is 2 x 1.5V button cell batteries (included) (LR44 or equivalent)
- Auto-off function: the meter shuts off automatically after 10 minutes of non-use to conserve batteries. Display: large and easy-to-read LCD screen.
- Measurement Range: 0-9990 ppm. From 0-999 ppm, the resolution is in increments of 1ppm. From 1000 to 9990 ppm, the resolution is in increments of 10ppm, indicated by a blinking 'x10' image. Fun, translucent blue housing that's very strong and durable.
- TDS-EZ meters are calibrated with a 342 ppm NaCl solution. Meters can be recalibrated with a mini-screwdriver. Includes a TDS chart sticker on the back of the meter that explains TDS values.
Features:
Specs:
Color | Purple |
Height | 6.1 Inches |
Length | 1 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Size | 0-9990 ppm. Measurement Range , 1 ppm Resolution, +/- 3% Readout Accuracy |
Weight | 0.125 Pounds |
Width | 1.25 Inches |
2. Radiant Saunas Rejuvinator Portable Personal Sauna with FAR Infrared Carbon Panels, Heated Floor Pad, Canvas Chair
- soothing warmth – far infrared heat surrounds your body, thanks to three low-emf carbon heating panels. each heater is precisely placed for even, steady heat.
- 1 minute set-up – six, easy steps convert this handy device into a personal paradise. simply unfold the sauna, plug it in, and enjoy nourishing warmth in any location. when you’re finished, this space-saving, personal sauna easily contracts for storage.
- relax anywhere – this portable sauna is easy to take on the go. a collapsible design conveniently folds for transport or storage. its moisture-resistant fabric allows for outdoor use, making it a perfect addition to your deck or campsite.
- canvas seating – foldable chairs are included with this feature-rich sauna. it also comes with a comfortable collar, sewn-in pockets for books or devices, a relaxing foot pad, and a convenient, hand-held control. 5 levels of pre-set heat temperature options with built-in thermostat - 150° F maximum temperature. Power supply- 120-volt - 60Hz - 900W
- one-year warranty – your sauna comes with a one-year manufacturer warranty. your item will arrive damage free with all necessary parts and accessories. if something goes wrong, we'll work tirelessly until you're satisfied with your sauna.
Features:
Specs:
Color | Gray |
Height | 38.1 Inches |
Length | 33.5 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Size | 38 Inch |
Weight | 18 Pounds |
Width | 28 Inches |
3. MistyMate 20009 24 Deluxe Personal Mister
Convenient carrying case nylon sleeve with 1 mesh pocket and 1 zipper pocket.Lasts an average of 3 4 hours when used intermittently.On/off valve.Built-in strap that can be worn around your waist or over your shoulder.Badge Clip to make mister hands free.
Specs:
Height | 12 Inches |
Length | 3 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Size | 24-Ounce |
Weight | 18 Pounds |
Width | 3 Inches |
4. TAYLOR TECHNOLOGIES INC K-1766 DROP TEST CHLORIDE SALT WATER
- Taylor Technologies K-1766 Salt Water Kit is for use with salt water chlorine generators
- Country of Origin: United States
- Brand Name: TAYLOR TECHNOLOGIES INC
- Model Number: K-1766
Features:
Specs:
Color | Multicolor |
Height | 0 Inches |
Length | 0 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Weight | 0.3 Pounds |
Width | 0 Inches |
5. Coleman SaluSpa Inflatable Hot Tub Spa, Green & White
- ENJOY THE ULTIMATE SPA EXPERIENCE: Nothing beats the feeling of sinking into a warm, bubbling hot tub after a long, hard day while jets project bubbles to massage your back, neck, and shoulders.
- EASY TO OPERATE: The digital control panel lets you dictate the water temperature (up to 104 degrees Fahrenheit) and pressure of the jets. A power saving timer can even automate the temperature of the spa up to 72 hours prior to save energy and money.
- DURABLE & INNOVATIVE CONSTRUCTION: The spa's durable PVC material and I-beam construction offer superior strength and stability while ensuring your hot tub never loses its shape.
- SIMPLE SETUP & MAINTENANCE: No extra tools are needed to setup This portable spa. Simply inflate and deflate with the included pump! A cover comes with for an extra Safety feature, maintain the water's warm temperature, and prevent debris from getting in the tub.
- BENEFITS OF A PORTABLE HOT TUB: With lift handles, the spa can be moved around with ease. This spa deflates compactly for optimal storage and transportation purposes.
Features:
Specs:
Color | Green & White |
Height | 28 Inches |
Length | 77 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Release date | January 2021 |
Size | Pack of 1 |
Weight | 88.85 Pounds |
Width | 77 Inches |
6. Poolmaster 22211 Smart Test 4-Way Swimming Pool and Spa Water Chemistry Test Strips, 50 count (Pack of 1)
- BEWARE: We want you to receive quality, authentic product so please carefully note the seller you are buying from and the spelling of Amazon to avoid receiving a bad copy of this product
- For maintaining healthy water chemistry in swimming pool or spa; contains 50 strips in easy-to-store container
- Pool water tester analyzes four chemical factors; free chlorine, bromine, alkalinity and pH
- Dip in pool or spa water for instant reading; no-bleed pads give accurate color reading
- Made in the USA
Features:
Specs:
Color | White and yellow |
Height | 3.5 Inches |
Length | 1.5 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Size | 1 Pack |
Weight | 1 Pounds |
Width | 2 Inches |
7. HM Digital DM-1 In-Line Dual TDS Monitor, 0-9990 ppm Range, +/- 2% Readout Accuracy
- The DM-1 helps you to measure the tap water coming in vs the purified water going out of your water filtration system at any time
- The In-Line Dual TDS Meter displays TDS levels of the feed water and product water with in and out electrode probes
- This TDS Monitor is highly efficient and accurate due to its advanced microprocessor technology
- Highly efficient and accurate due to its advanced microprocessor technology
- Auto-Off function conserves battery power. The unit shuts off automatically after 10 minutes of non-use
- Installs quickly and easily
Features:
Specs:
Color | Blue & White |
Height | 3 Inches |
Length | 1.9 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Size | 0-9990 ppm; 1 ppm resolution (0-999), 10 ppm resolution (1000-9990) |
Weight | 0.1 Pounds |
Width | 0.8 Inches |
8. 2 PACK -CMP Hi-Temp Union 2" inch 2MIP x 2" inch PVC Whisperflo & Intelliflo - 2 PACK
- 2 in. MIP x 2 in. PVC Hi-Temp Union by CMP
- 21063-200-000
- Whisperflo & Intelliflo hi-temp union
- CMP Hi-Temp Union 2" inch MIP x 2" inch PVC
- Hi- Temp unions are designed for 2 inch pvc pipe. Threaded end deigned to fit into a 2 inch female threaded pool pump.
Features:
Specs:
Number of items | 2 |
9. XtremepowerUS 75037 Climb Wall Pool Cleaner Automatic Suction Vacuum-Generic, Blue
- 10 hoses included for up to 30' pool. Ideal for cleaning bottom surface and wall; does not clean stairs
- Require at least a 1 hp swimming pool pump or 1600 GHP to function properly.
- No tools required and no electricity needed; Attaches to your existing filtration system
- Cleaner should be moving about the pool at a rate of 8 to 12 feet per minute. Eco-friendly automatic pool cleaner vacuum designed for high efficiency and low maintenance.
- Automatic operation by self-navigating around the water on set patterns for the top to bottom pool cleaning. Refer to the PDF attached below in Technical Specification for the Manual and Troubleshooting Guide
Features:
Specs:
Color | Blue |
Height | 17.5 Inches |
Length | 40.5 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Weight | 12 pounds |
Width | 5.5 Inches |
10. OASE 602401853010 Pondovac Classic Pond Vacuum Cleaner
- Max. Suction depth: 6 ft.High-power suction to a depth of 59 inch.Maximum suction depth of 78 inch
- Suction hose length: 13 ft
- Operating voltage: 110-120 Volt / 60Hz. Power consumption: 1200-1400w
- Power cable length: 13 ft
- Limited Warranty: 2 years
Features:
Specs:
Height | 23.03 Inches |
Length | 14.76 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Weight | 23.49 Pounds |
Width | 14.76 Inches |
11. Drinking Water Test Kit For Municipal Tap and Well Water - Simple Testing Strips For Lead Copper Bacteria, Nitrates, Chlorine and More
- ☑️ A SIMPLE, ACCURATE AND LOW-COST WAY to screen your water for the presence of potentially harmful contaminants.
- ☑️ MADE IN THE USA IN LINE WITH EPA LIMITS - Compare your results to EPA recommended levels for drinking water quality. Don't rely on the "bargain" strips, which are often merely wastewater tests with unreliable results.
- ☑️ COMPREHENSIVE TESTING FOR PEACE OF MIND - Not only does this test kit detect even the smallest amounts of lead and copper, but it also tests for bacteria and other crucial water quality parameters. Having unbalanced levels of pH, chlorine, alkalinity, hardness, nitrate or nitrite can indicate serious issues.
- ☑️ SIMPLE ENOUGH FOR ANYONE TO USE AND READ - The step-by-step directions are clearly laid out, making it easy to get accurate results. Simply compare your results to the included color-coded card to check the levels of each contaminant.
- ☑️ 100+ DOLLARS SAVED ON LAB TESTS - Testing separately for every element in a lab cost stupid amounts of money. That's why most of us don’t test every 6 months like recommended. This screening kit will help you find out what’s in your water for a fraction of the cost.
Features:
Specs:
Height | 4.3 Inches |
Length | 2.5 Inches |
Width | 5.8 Inches |
12. Intex 77in PureSpa Portable Bubble Massage Spa Set
- The built in hard water treatment system makes water gentler on skin for a soothing experience
- An insulated cover and lock is included to minimize heat loss and provides an added safety feature
- Pure Spa provides simple maintenance with 2 easy to replace filter cartridges for clean refreshing spa water
- Age Grading: 6+. Includes: Heating system, 3-way test strip, 2 filter cartridges, floating pool chlorine dispenser, thermal ground cloth, inflation hose, carry bag
- Seating capacity: 4 people; Water capacity: 210 gallons; Water temperature range (68 Degrees to 104 Degrees)
Features:
Specs:
Color | Tan/White |
Height | 28 Inches |
Length | 77 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Size | 77 in / 4-Person |
Weight | 87.2 Pounds |
Width | 77 Inches |
13. Pentair GW9500 Kreepy Krauly Great White Inground Pool Cleaner,Grey/Black
- Automatic in-ground pool cleaner. SmartTrac Programmed Steering easily navigates around pool obstacles for uninterrupted cleaning. Adjustable to ensure the most effective cleaning
- Vacuum port door fitting has a spring-loaded cover for safety
- Cleans gunite, fiberglass, vinyl, and other specialty surfaces in a 15-inch path
- Unique turning mechanism allows escape from difficult areas
Features:
Specs:
Color | Grey/Black |
Height | 0 Inches |
Length | 0 Inches |
Weight | 19 Pounds |
Width | 0 Inches |
14. Frog Log Escape Devices for Small Animals in Pools (2)
- Easily Installed
Features:
15. Lightweight Personal Steam Sauna by Durasage for Relaxation at Home, 60 Min Timer - Pink
This item will be delivered curbside. To have the item delivered to a location of choice on your property, kindly make additional arrangements with a third party provider ahead of deliveryDimensions : 28"x33"x43"800w steam generator / timer can set up to 60 min maximumGray color tent & comes with bl...
Specs:
Color | Gray |
Height | 43 Inches |
Length | 28 Inches |
Weight | 10.9 Pounds |
Width | 33 Inches |
16. Critter Skimmer 10-Inch Square Pool Skimmer Cover, White
- Pool skimmer that allows small animals to climb a spiral rescue ramp and through the opening in the skimmer cover to safety
- Frogs can save themselves without human intervention while not interfering with normal skimmer action
- cleaner pool water without chemicals; simple and effective
Features:
Specs:
Color | White |
Height | 10 Inches |
Length | 10 Inches |
Size | Square |
Width | 8 Inches |
17. Hayward SP2607X10 Super Pump 1 HP Pool Pump
- The industry’s workhorse - recognized for reliability and performance
- Exclusive swing-away hand knobs makes for easier strainer cover removal: no tools required, no loose parts and no clamps
- See through strainer cover lets you see when basket needs cleaning and eliminates guess work
- Features an oversized debris basket has extra leaf holding capacity for less frequent maintenance
Features:
Specs:
Height | 11.5 Inches |
Length | 29 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Size | 1 HP (SP2607X10) |
Weight | 34.4 Pounds |
Width | 10.25 Inches |
18. Water Tech Pool Blaster Catfish Li Pool & Spa Cleaner
Lightweight and easy to use: No hoses or cords neededQuickly removes all debris, leaves, sand, and even algaeRechargeable batteryNo messy hoses or additional pumpsReusable filter bag.Vacuum Head Width: 7.4 inch
Specs:
Color | Blue |
Height | 7 Inches |
Length | 14.75 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Weight | 3.05 Pounds |
Width | 4.5 Inches |
19. In The Swim Chlorine Pool Shock - 6 X 1 Pound Bags
- Powerful chlorine shock treatment that is great for regular maintenance
- Quickly eliminates contaminants from your pool water
- Main active ingredient is 68% Calcium Hypochlorite (Cal-Hypo) for quick sanitizing
- Dosage: 1 Pound per 10,000 gallons
- Special Shipping Information: This product may not be available for 1 or 2 day shipping due to federal regulations that require it to ship via ground ship methods only. This product can only be shipped within the 48 contiguous states.
Features:
Specs:
Color | Multicolor |
Height | 4.7 Inches |
Length | 10.3 Inches |
Size | 6 x 1 lb |
Weight | 6.72 Pounds |
Width | 8.4 Inches |
20. Jed Pool tools Inc 00-481 Standard Dual Test Kit
- High quality product
- Manufactured in China
- Test kit
- Two way OTO, total Cl and pH
- Includes one 1/2-ounce bottle chlorine test solution, one 1/2-ounce bottle pH test solution, plastic tester and carrying case
Features:
Specs:
Height | 11 Inches |
Length | 7.25 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Size | Standard Test Kit |
Weight | 0.35 Pounds |
Width | 1.25 Inches |
🎓 Reddit experts on pools, hot tubs & supplies
The comments and opinions expressed on this page are written exclusively by redditors. To provide you with the most relevant data, we sourced opinions from the most knowledgeable Reddit users based the total number of upvotes and downvotes received across comments on subreddits where pools, hot tubs & supplies are discussed. For your reference and for the sake of transparency, here are the specialists whose opinions mattered the most in our ranking.
Well - first off, everything is much newer and in better shape than I expected.
Like I said you should be able to get copies of all of the manuals ( if you do not already have them) on line. In particular the pump/strainer and the filter.
If the pool is just green, and not too much real debris, you can probably get it running as soon as you fill it up. Even if you keep it covered, I would get it up an running so you can learn about everything now.
Pics - 1&8 Muriatic Acid, very strong, and it is hazardous, but also very effective. I prefer using this. As for the condition, it is probably OK...
2 - Fountain , yes decorative only
3 - Liner cleaner, I am assuming the pool needs to be empty to use this. If there is a date on it and less than 2-3 years you could keep it. You may have a ring on the liner where the water level is now. This may help. - but I have not used this and do not know how damaging it is if a little gets into the water.
4 - > Looks like a handle, perhaps for maintenance of something. ( ref the manuals)
5 - No idea, looks serious and like a lot of it. Check the manuals.
6&10, 13-no label, double wrap in heavy plastic bag, and trash it. ( if inside it is tablets then it is chlorine - I would keep tablets, but any unmarked powers, granular, liquids - trash)
7- Pretty sure this is the vacuum cleaner attachment, you set this on top of the skimmer, and connect the vacuum hose for suction.
9 - Yes it is a part you probably want, it may be a discharge fitting to help with draining the pool.
11 - the safer alternative to the Nuriatic acid. Worth keeping.
12 - just an another alternate. Since it has a label it should say specifically what the chemical is. ( Keep for now)
14 - no idea, too small to be for the pump. Perhaps a charging cable for the fountain?
15 - I agree - looks to be the same part, but one may have come with the skimmer, and one with the vacuum. Keep
16 - Same ( they may fit different size vacuum hoses, etc.)
17 Keep
18 - too blurry, but also looks like lube ( did the previous owner have a boat?)
19 - the pole on the vacuum ( background) has spring buttons, so the pole is used for the skimmer net, brushes and the vacuum.
20 - no idea - have fun
22 - that looks like the type of brush used to clean a boat ( more evidence) If he had a boat the Lube in 5 and possibly 18, may also explain 20)
23 - the hose going to the Strainer Backet will be connected to the SKimmer on the side of the pool. ( that is the intake,)
24 -25 - Yes - the Strainer basket, pump and pump motor are all one assembly. ( Is the electrical cord terminated with a reguar plug??)
Looks to be in OK shape - but not the cleanest / neatest assembly.
26 - Yes - filter
27 - Pressure gauge ( indicates how dirty the filter is, but also that there is water flowing - etc)
28 - Paper cartridge filter ( what I can see looks to be in good shape) - when you get up and running this should be very low to little maintenance over the course of a summer. But for now - get up and running as it is, when the pool clears up - you may want to remove and hose this down. - will take about 20 minutes.
29 - Yes - I have an in-ground with paper - and have been amazed how well these work and how little maintenance. I have not replaced mine, I give them a good cleaning in the fall when I close.
30-31 - Yep
32 - Yep - check both ends of the hose for the fit.
36 - Yep ( may want to replace this)
37 - this one is newer and a little prettier - and has the deluxe termo!
38 - Skimmer basket - take to the pool store and get a new one.
39 - Plug for winterizing - this will plug the wall nozzle ( return)
40 -- Bottom of the Skimmer - see the same plug type.
45 - Skimmer net (doe not go IN the Skimmer) just what I call it...- not perfect, use this for the clean up and get a new one for regular maintenance in the future. ( so you do not beat up a new on doing the initial cleaning)
OK -- so like I said not too bad....
Connections --
Side Skimmer hose - to strainer basket on the pump. Exit of the pump with hose to the filter housing, will need to check the manual for which in the inlet and outlet on the filter housing (probably labeled though). Hose from exit of filter to the nozzle on the side next to the skimmer ( Pic 43). ( You should have three hose sections - to do this)
If you can get a small water pump, like a sump pump wihhout the float switch. LIKE THIS - you will use this over the winters to keep the water off of the cover in the future. ( There are automatic ones - but I have found that a basic pump like this - and turning it on manually lasts longer and costs less - it is OK to have water on the cover for a short period of time, you just do not want it on there to grow stuff collect debris)
Pump the water off of the cover, then remove it.
Hard to tell really how bad the water in the pool is - but I would probably go ahead and use that and top it off, instead of completely draining and refilling.
If you want to empty it completely - you can use the pump, but may need to rearrange the hoses to get one long enough to go over the wall and to the bottom. ( I guess you could hook up the vacuum - but this will slow down the process)
The important thing is to make sure the pump has water when you turn it on. You will probably have to prime it, by filling the strainer basket with the garden hose and then replace the cover.
Monitor the pump when starting up and make sure it does not run empty after this for more than 1 minute or so - it may take some time to get the water flowing if you are using the vacuum and the water level is too low.
Put the hose in, start filling,
You can get the water tested now - typically free at the pool store, but you will be making a few adjustments and at first, we just need it chlorinated and cleaned up.
30' round 52" pool is ... 21K Gallons. I did not realize they had so much water! - anyway the pool store will want to know this and they typically will set up a record in their system. This will help them tell you how much of the chemicals you will need in the future. But do not let them sell you a bunch of chemicals right now - the water is so out of balance right now I do not think a test will be very useful)
If you are not going to completely drain the pool, once filled and connected, add 2 Lbs of the Shock. -- and start running the pump. I would add the 2lbs of Baking Soda now, but others may disagree...- actually 21K Gal you can use 4 lbs.
Once running for 3-4 hours test the Chlorine and PH , keep CL above 3.0 for a day. - I am pretty sure you will see remarkable difference in 1 day.
OK - I got to go back to work - haha
"Epsom salt" is actually magnesium sulfate, which is not a corrosive substance. (It's good for your skin and does not cause chemical burns.)
Because water conducts electricity, most wet or submerged electronics will not work properly unless they are sealed and water-tight.
If a circuit board gets wet and is not dried quickly and completely, the water will mix with oxygen in the air and cause oxidation, often resulting in permanent damage to the circuit board.
It might be possible to find a water-tight keyboard and mouse that would work while submerged, but my guess is they would be awkard to use since your arms would naturally float to the surface of the water.
A voice-controlled AI like Siri, Alexa, or whatever would probably be more practical. Until AI assistants improve, you will be limited in the type of work you’re able to do—but that’s always true if you’re in a float tank.
You might be interested in an adjustable height desk, which allows you to alternate between standing and sitting throughout the day.
Or, you could try a treadmill desk. I have one myself and personally recommend it. You wouldn’t want to walk on it all day, but it’s great for 90 minutes or so.
Or, if you wanna keep it weird, you could try a personal infrared sauna:
www.amazon.com/Radiant-Saunas-BSA6310-Rejuvenator-Portable/dp/B00MX19M9E/
Good luck brainstorming. If you’re still thinking about a vertical float tank, consider one that has only the bottom half of your body submerged that you would use in a sitting or kneeling position. It would still be more comfortable than a regular chair, and you wouldn’t need to submerge your electronics.
Keep in mind, with any float tank, you’re going to get powdery white epsom salt all over the place whenever you drip after exiting the tank. When desigining your float room, it’s best if you can position the shower right next to the entering/exiting point of the tank.
Go do a vertical float and think it over. There are plenty of challenges, but it’s not impossible.
The pond looks lovely!
I'm not a landscaping professional but an environmental engineer and what you basically want to do here is dredging so I feel I can offer you some advice.
If you want to do this more or less for free you'll need a rake and a some sort of boat. You can scoop the leaves out. It will take a lot of man hours, especially if this hasn't happened in the last 30 years. You can use the decaying leaves, by making a compost pile and letting them compost for a while longer before use in your garden. I wouldn't worry about wildlife here too much. Species that life in these types of highly organic, low in oxygen sediments aren't threatened and really don't do much good for the ecological balance in a pond like this. You can leave the leaves at the banks for a couple of days if you want to save the frog population, they'll get out and back into the water.
Alternatively you can buy a pond vacuum cleaner (something like this http://www.amazon.com/OASE-PondoVac-Classic-Vacuum-Cleaner/dp/B004HIHUTA). It will cost you about 200 bucks and you'll still need a boat and plenty of man hours. Your pond is quite large.
And a third alternative: you can hire a company to do it for you. They'll bring professional equipment and get the job done quickly. That will be 500 bucks or more though, depending on where you live.
After you've removed the sediments you're not done though. I'm suprised you mentioned not having algae problems. Have you seen the pond during warm weather yet? In a pond with a big amount of leaves I'd expect some algal blooms or duckweed covers during summer. If you do experience troubles with that you might want to consider putting a layer of 20 cm or so of clean sand to cover up the current sediment. The quality of that sediment won't be very good for aquatic live (very eutrophic with a high oxygen demand). A layer of clean sand will soften the effects.
Also, in the future you do need to prevent a new leave build up. You can prevent the majority of leaves from getting in by putting a net over it in autumn/winter or by cutting down trees close to the pond (a 10 meter perimeter will do).
Would you like to leave the pond as it is or would you like to use it for swimming or for fish? If you'd like to keep fish or clean enough water for humans to swim, you'll need some additional work like trying to develop a healthy vegetation (helps to keep the water clear and oxygenated).
>With the raft, don't the roots sit in water?
 
Yes and no. What you want to do is get enough foam so that about half of inch sits outside the water at all time. This allows the roots to breath outside of the water (like the DWC). Again, don’t let this part get dry or it can cause air pruning. You can do this by allowing the net pot to sit a little higher in the foam, planting higher in the net pot, or getting a little thicker foam.
 
I am attaching a link to MPH Gardener. I would say look over his stuff. He is pretty freakin’ awsome.
 
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oDYeffYcVkY
 
>Can you recommend all the testing equipment I need or provide an Amazon link?
 
You will need a PPM and pH meter. These are two cheap version I use. You can go as crazy as you want, just remember the cheaper the more you replace them.
 
pH: http://www.amazon.com/Etekcity%C2%AE-Accuracy-Measurement-Resolution-Handheld/dp/B00FJFEB2O/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1427150876&sr=8-1&keywords=ph+meter
 
pH Callibration Liquid: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007X5KAV4/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_2?pf_rd_p=1944687462&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B004HE7W42&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=118RAVZJW5YGE1CB5EE9
 
PPM: http://www.amazon.com/HM-Digital-TDS-EZ-Measurement-Resolution/dp/B002C0A7ZY/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1427150876&sr=8-3&keywords=ph+meter
 
>With lettuce greens, I think the raft would work. Perhaps I'll do DWC with tomatoes; I think it would be hard with greens.
 
That sounds great. Watch the MPH Gardener on his Dutch bucket tomatoes first. I will preface with he does use MiracleGro for his nutrients, which is a highly debated topic. So take the nutrients with a grain of salt.
 
>How do you swap out water? Do you just do a 100% water change? Is that cost-effective with the price of nutrients?
 
I do do a 100% water change every two weeks. You can check the level of nutrients and try adding them; however, I have an outside garden during the summer and just put the nutrients there which does wonders for them.
 
Also, it gives me a chance to add in bacteria as I need it.
 
There are methods for balancing the pH, nutrients, and keeping the same water; however, as a beginner I would not get into this. If you want to we can talk but just swap the nutrients out as you go.
 
And this is where I will highlight that you want a shallow reservoir because you want to keep the minimum water you need to not to waste nutrients. I would say go to a hardware store and ikea and see what bins will work.
 
>Do I need to paint my plastic bin black to deter mold growth? Thanks so much for your help!
 
Yes and no. There are ways to go around managing algae with either pond products or barley straw mats, but to be honest sealing off holes and painting things black is the easiest.
 
Keep in mind that if you are going to have high heat in the room a white reservoir might be better than black.
Thanks for the shoutout! Glad I could be of some help!
Ok, so let's get started.
First, what part of Texas are you in? I believe you have native CP's closer to the eastern part of the state.
Now to answer your questions:
As far as the next ingredient, I go with Silica Sand which is also called pool filter sand. Do not use play sand, paver sand, etc. only Silica Sand/ Pool Filter sand. This is the brand that I use. I've hear Quikrete makes some, but it's not available in my area. I typically do a 50/50 or 60/40 mix. If your area is fairly dry, I'd probably do a 60 Sphagnum/ 40 Sand mix. You can add perlite if you'd like, but I'm not sure it's necessary. Other optional additions are long pine needles and long fiber sphagnum top layer. Long fiber sphagnum as a top layer would be good if your climate is fairly dry as it will supplement the plants with some humidity.
We have a kitchen cupboard full of Nuun electrolyte tablets because my SO subscribed to them on Amazon and never unsubscribed. I'm looking forward to them being used. They are super great though.
I've been meaning to go through this thread from last year to see what people recommended.
My recomendations are;
A big vacuum insulated growler (why is that the American word for drink bottle?!) to put in your bike basket/pannier so you can have a cold drink after hours of riding around.
This screw top pot of smelly stuff for clearing your sinuses. It's herbs that smell like vix vapor rub and it's great, especially on the playa.
This battery operated personal mister that goes in the cup holder my bike already had.
Pickle flavored candy canes. These didn't even make it to the playa last year. I ate them all within a day of them being delivered.
If you use rebar (like for monkey huts, I don't think lag bolts are really an alternative there) this will be your favorite thing at pack down.
Tbh at my pool at the Y we run our chlorine mostly between 3-5. As said previously, higher bather load (more swimmers) usually means 5-10ppm. They meant chlorine at 1.5, a 1.5 pH would be absolutely incredible and dangerous. I consider 1.5 to be low, but we would not close our pool over it, just add more. 1 is closing.
You can get one of these testers at any pool store or Walmart for pretty cheap peace of mind. They have instructions inside that are very easy to follow. I'd be slightly offended if you tested my pool, but I also check the chemicals hourly and I'd know what they are if you asked me, so I doubt your lifeguards will say anything. Clearly they don't keep good records. You should complain about that. Not trying to make you paranoid, but the ones who don't check chemicals are not necessarily the best lifeguards either.
If it's cloudy, good call not to swim. If it smells strongly or makes your eyes water from deck, don't swim. I'll add that if you do get a tester and the pH is not between 7.2-7.8, then don't swim.
Can I ask what the hours of your pool are? IMO 3 times a day is not enough if it's open relatively 24/7.
Edit: You can totally buy strips. Never used them before, but they are also probably at any pool store or walmart. I would probably be amused if you did this at my pool. It's probably a lot subtler than the dropper-testers.
Edit 2: I feel like I should add that I would let you test my pool if you wanted to, even if it would hurt my feelings. I feel like up top there I insinuated that it wouldn't be okay, but it would be fine. I have nothing to hide.
> Show me a "proper engineered" version for cheaper.
Sure thing. This is exponentially cheaper as it doesn't require a several thousand dollar car for its containment / support. It's also engineered much better, by real engineers, to contain and keep water warm.
> Got the degree.
Considering your demeanor, extensive comment history, and the subs you are most active on, that is extremely unlikely. Sounds like you're a mechanic or tradesman of some sort. But if it makes you feel better you're welcome to keep telling yourself that.
I just came across this research on seawater greenhouses for a global water class.
My feeling is that it would be easier to focus on plants and animals that are native to that ecosystem. Look into halophytes. Other good crops could be kangkong or New Zealand spinach. Here is some research that was done on both of those crops under various saline concentrations. You will want to get an idea of the salt concentration you are dealing with. Might want to search for that info or order a salt test kit.
I would seriously reflect on non-traditional crops since the wont tolerate much imperfection in their environment. I feel that organisms that live in these saline environments have developed very good cellular machinery to regulate their homeostasis and should be looked at. Ions build up to toxic levels in many normal crops even at low concentrations of salts. Tossing in crops that are not adapted means that you will have to provide all of that energy to change their local environment. It could be done at a cost but its not really a permaculture way of doing it. It's easier to change the crops.
The idea is good though. Kristopher Hite posted an article on Scientific American on using plants to capture runoff nitrates from the Mississippi River. It would be useful if we could create something like a floating farm. Bill Mollison used to talk about how our city's are designs to dump nutrients out to sea, and future generations are going to have go out and bring it back.
Can't go wrong with the inteliflo VSF. It's expensive but parts will be available forever and it's the most proven pump. Typically you have to buy it at a pool store.
Next best option would be the superflo VS. Much smaller pump, still very capable. If you pool is just a 20x40 without water features or hot tub the superflo would be fine. Inteliflo gives you many more options with scheduling (which you may or may not care about).
Get some 2" high temp unions (IF you do inteliflo) https://www.amazon.com/PACK-Hi-Temp-Union-Whisperflo-Intelliflo/dp/B00AKMV4K8 like these so your pump can be easily serviced in the future.
It's just as possible that your tap water has too many minerals. My tap water supply can sometimes have 6-9 times the optimal level. Short of having a full water test done, you can buy a cheap TDS meter off amazon (we use these) but I'm sure any of them are fine. You're looking for an target of about 150ppm but I've had great cups from 100-350ish. You might find it might be a good idea to mix some distilled and tap, preferably filtered if your water has any distinct taste to it.
For no cost (aside from coffee and water) you could just try a 10%tap 90%distilled batch, a 50/50 batch, and a 100% tap batch and just make some adjustments from whichever you like the most.
I honestly don't know where I read every 7 days but it seemed to make sense, re-fresh the water at least once a week. Are you saying it should be changed more often or less often?
I bought a PPM meter, this one, 515 reviews and still 4 1/2 stars. Hopefully it works, I've had no luck in the past with digital PH meters and just use the chemical test kit from General Hydroponics.
After reading everyones comments I'm definitely gonna set up a PH adjusted plain water reservoir. However I grow different strains at the same time (different finish dates, some like more or less nutes than others) so I can't use one general reservoir, which is why I decided upon DWC instead of other hydro options in the first place.
Do the nutrient bottles tell you what the desired PPM is? What happens if you don't have a filtration system and your starting out at about 300 ppm from my regular well water.
I will also add that Calms magnesium powder in tea is amazing and puts me to sleep much of the time. Alka-seltzer Gold, aspirin and naproxen have helped with migraines and inflammation, but to a much lesser extent than the cannabis, so I haven't even thought of using those again since I started this regimen. I also recommend one of those personal saunas, relaxes my muscles and warms up my constantly cold feet. Baths with epsom salt an help.
I add 3 tablespoons per gallon or 12ml/liter of FloraGro into my water for an aggressive vegetative growth period. This is basically all of the time, because of what I'm growing - herbs and lettuce that is constantly harvesting and never flowering.
In the guide and video I made, I bought soil starts that were a bit beyond seedlings to speed up the process, but I would recommend just starting with seed in the system so you avoid any dirt and bacteria that the soil might bring in. I get the brown jelly going on every now and then, and I think it's one of these:
As for changing the nutrients, I do a recirculating system where I only replace the water that gets used by the plants. So I fill it up once to start and then add water as necessary. I keep a 5 gallon barrel of water that is perfectly pH'd with nutrients added to make it a LOT easier.
To check the amount of nutrients you have going on you can spend 15 bucks and get this. It will let you know the parts per million of nutrient in your solution.
As for pH, it really doesn't fluctuate very much. I check it every now and then but as long as you pH correctly at the start, add the proper amount of nutrients to the water and refill as necessary then you are balancing pretty damn well.
I'm a bit confused on the science question, could you let me know what you mean by that?
It is possible that you could have pretty decent tap water. Your best bet would be to get a TDS meter to determine the amount of total dissolved solids. Preferably you would want less than 5ppm.
People have successfully kept saltwater aquariums without RO/DI, but using RO/DI water limits the chance of any nuisance algae and poor water quality as some tap water already has ammonia/nitrite/nitrate in it. I would recommend using RO/DI water, but if you don't want to have to buy a unit - you could always buy RO/DI water from your local fish store. It's usually ~$1 per gallon. I would advise against any prepackaged "Natural Sea Water" though... which is like $15 for 4 gallons, so you'll know the difference.
Water Tech Pool Blaster Catfish Li Pool and Spa Cleaner https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002GT91SK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_.AdozbC1MJ81C
This thing is awesome. It ll get sand off the bottom of my Intex pool. My pool is 18ft around and it did the whole thing in a few minutes. Way better than the one you have to hook to a garden hose or the intex pool pump. Those didn't work and had a bunch of tubes attached. This is self contained and works great.
Yeah I didn't go into it expecting much (an ounce or two) so we'll see what it comes out too, i'll be happy to get that.
Here are the links for the meters I get. I tested the ph meter and compared it to drops and it is spot on. Not sure about the ppm one but it got good reviews.
PPM Meter
PH Meter
Thanks for checking out my grow!
Just make sure you get the one with the DI. The replacement cartridges are pretty reasonable as well, and my lps sells them as well as amazon. I have heard nothing bad about that system. My TDS from the tap is 144, and is zero after that system.
Here is the TDS monitor for cheap:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001EHAZGW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
And a float valve if you need one:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0113UJOOS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Yeah def. grab one of these off amazon they are super cheap and usefull. https://www.amazon.com/HM-Digital-TDS-EZ-Measurement-Resolution/dp/B002C0A7ZY
Works great.
Alright taking into consideration the 12 plant limit here, my previous setup was too big for so few plants. So with some downsizing hopefully saves even more!
Tent - GROWNEER 48"x36"x72" Lodge Propagation Tent
Lights - HLG65 lm301b and red 660nm hydroponic grow light 4000K x 2
Kingbrite 240W samsung lm301h 288v3 quantum board X1
Fan - AC Infinity CLOUDLINE S4, Quiet 4” Inline Duct Fan with Speed Controller
PH Meter - Wellcows Digital PH Meter
PPM Meter - HM Digital TDS-EZ Water Quality TDS Tester
Carbon Filter - VIVOSUN 4 Inch Air Carbon Filter
Ducting - VIVOSUN 2-PACK 4 Inch 8 Feet Non-Insulated Flex Air Aluminum Ducting
Nutrients - MEGA Crop (2500g)
Botanicare CAL-MAG Plus Plant Supplement 2-0-0 Formula, 1 Quart
PH Control - General Hydroponics pH Control Kit
Soil - PREMIER HORTICULTURE 20380RG PRO-Mix HP High Porosity Grower Mix
Pots - Gardzen 10-Pack 1 Gallon Grow Bags x 2
Cloning Machine - CLONE KING 25
Total - 880.62 (includes shipping)
So with this setup ill keep 1 or 2 mother plants and then run the rest in SoG in 1 gallon pots. Using the 2 4000k lights for the mother plant and the cloning station and the 240w for the SoG area of the tent. Its a small setup but I think it'll work. Any idea what kinds of yeilds this could achieve? Any further input would be greatly appreciated.
I bought a house with a 20x40 vinyl inground last year, and have learned the troublefreepools method. I use store brand concentrated bleach, 8.25%, and their pool calculator to help determine how much to use.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00ESQMA8M/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1495056986&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=pool+sweepers+for+in+ground+pools&dpPl=1&dpID=41IJ2WmA9uL&ref=plSrch
And I love this little guy, he's a huge help for a very minimal investment. I named mine "Munchie."
I would be more concerned about making sure its cleaned out. There is this cleaner you can get that will clear out the jets and remove grime from the piping. https://www.amazon.com/Ahh-Some-Cleaner-Clearer-Efficiently-Clarifier/dp/B0030MYGXW/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?crid=1E6AKXTRWDK91&keywords=hot+tub+cleaner+for+the+jets+and+the+tubes&qid=1568212796&s=gateway&sprefix=hot+tub+cleaner%2Caps%2C176&sr=8-2-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUFMUlA2OVlOUjRVR1AmZW5jcnlwdGVkSWQ9QTA2NjI0NzExTU1INjZBVjJFMUw0JmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTAzNjQ1MTIxWDJRQkxaVjI5QkM5JndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfYXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ== . I moved into my place 2 years ago and it came with a hot tub from the 90's. After using the cleaner, there was a ton of nasty buildup in the pipes. Once that's done, drain it and give it a good scrub down. Then change the filter.
Download the manual for your hot tub and read it to make sure you are performing proper weekly maintenance and using the correct chemicals. For example, some tubs take bromine tablets, some don't. There may also be some other cool features that you might not know about.
Get some hot tub test strips https://www.amazon.com/Poolmaster-22211-Swimming-Chemistry-Strips/dp/B001E6E9PG/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=hot+tub+test+strips&qid=1568212610&s=gateway&sr=8-3
Use them once or twice a week depending on hot tub usage. Then add any chemicals as needed. Make sure you fill up your hot tub once a week at least to make sure your jets are covered.
I'm not going to Coachella this year, and I already have one of these, so no need to send me one, but I highly recommend this personal mister. I can't even begin to tell you how downright fucking delightful this thing is to have when you're just sitting around being hot. It lasts a long time and you can just fill it up every time you're at the water station.
Equipment List
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Chemicals and Food
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OnePlus 2 Manual Camera Settings
For those interested my light is an AI Prime LED set to the 14k spectrum.
I run http://www.mistymate.com/misty-3.html for my local shows- you can unscrew the mouthpiece off a camelbak then lean forward to refill it too, which is super convenient.
Planning on picking up one of the bigger units like https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005727E2I/ref=pd_aw_sim_86_2?ie=UTF8&dpID=41z3du8U9CL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL200_SR200%2C200_&refRID=BJ6JR7GX8A6RRXJ3DKYN for Vegas though, more reservoir means less refilling and more sharing. Have to get backup spray nozzles for this type though- had one where the nozzle fell off and was lost forever at Beyond Wonderland, Bay Area.
Also have a camelbak attachment that may or may not work, ran into a guy with one at a show last year. (http://www.amazon.com/HYDRATION-adjustable-efficiently-streaming-Mr/dp/B00O4P214K)
Taking no chances this year.
You'll need one of these: https://www.amazon.com/TAYLOR-TECHNOLOGIES-INC-K-1766-CHLORIDE/dp/B001DO35EU/ref=sr_1_2?s=lawn-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1520998347&sr=1-2&keywords=salt+test+kit
Also, any test kit that includes a CYA test should be good. The K2006 is a pretty standard kit that test all aspects of water chemistry (except for salt concentration) If you have a salt generator, you'll probably need to manually boost your CYA levels that would normally come from chlorine.
https://www.troublefreepool.com/content/138-water-balance-for-swg-saltwater-chlorine-generator
https://www.troublefreepool.com/content/127-salt-water-chlorine-generators-swg
When it was first introduced I wondered about the connected version. Couldn't see the difference between buttons on the brewer vs buttons on your phone. The fact that the price is lowered seems to substantiate my opinion. It's a "gee whiz look at what I can do" feature regardless of whether the feature makes any sense.
As far as water quality there's a difference between hardness (measured in grains) vs total dissolved solids per whatever(tds). There are kits to measure only hardness, but I think this device will tell you more about your water: https://www.amazon.com/HM-Digital-TDS-EZ-Measurement-Resolution/dp/B002C0A7ZY
The common wisdom seems to be not to use softened water as it will not extract the tastes from the coffee properly. Rather, filter out the tds.
I use a Zerofilter, and Brita filtered water to bring the tds up to 75-100 or so which is the level I think I saw Behmor recommend at one point somewhere.
You should consider buying a TDS meter like this one. It allows you to accurately keep track of the solution strength.
Don't worry about buying a more expensive one, you won't need much for a home project.
Still pretty readily available in the northeast for me, but you can get it cheap from Amazon from a number of vendors.
http://www.amazon.com/In-The-Swim-Chlorine-Shock/dp/B002WKM4A0/ref=pd_sim_sbs_lg_3
Is a good example. 6 lbs for 33 bucks plus shipping is essentially 60k gallons of water. You can probably find it in cheaper or smaller quantities, I just grabbed the first thing I saw.
OK but the black one seems to be smaller no?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01F46511M/ref=s9u_simh_gw_i1?ie=UTF8&fpl=fresh&pd_rd_i=B01F46511M&pd_rd_r=5XHYQZHE3JW774Z86VB1&pd_rd_w=IY40N&pd_rd_wg=hW9TS&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=&pf_rd_r=PMSZCQ1A8AHAV7YCBVE3&pf_rd_t=36701&pf_rd_p=781f4767-b4d4-466b-8c26-2639359664eb&pf_rd_i=desktop
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NB3P98G/ref=s9u_simh_gw_i2?ie=UTF8&fpl=fresh&pd_rd_i=B00NB3P98G&pd_rd_r=22SZT08HFBP3D3FY63F1&pd_rd_w=x2mIu&pd_rd_wg=M2tID&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=&pf_rd_r=ZQHQ1S53RH68B14A1TJ5&pf_rd_t=36701&pf_rd_p=781f4767-b4d4-466b-8c26-2639359664eb&pf_rd_i=desktop
Sounds promising for the green one at least... thanks for the follow up!
Hey, I'm looking at amazing water test kits now -- what exactly should I be testing for? pH? something like this?
or this maybe?
No one has mentioned it so I will:
Get a Parts Per Million meter. It doesn't have to be a fancy one, and actually see what's going on. My water tastes and smells pretty bad, but is only around 170ppm total dissolved solids. If I simply let it sit in a jug overnight, it tastes way better because the chlorine evaporates.
Also, request an analysis from your local water company. In my state, they are required by law to send one annually. It's a list of every molecule in their sample, but with Flint demonstrating, the testers may "pre-flush" the pipes before taking a sample, so if you don't trust the municipality or private water works, you can get your own sample relatively cheap (Home Depot does them for free where I am).
All in all a reverse osmosis system, or even just a passive charcoal one, should help tons. The former can actually take out chemically bonded impurities, while the later removes suspended particulate.
I absolutely love my Kreepy Krauly Great White. It scrubs the algae spots and sucks up all of the oak leaves that fall in. Its also very simple and doesnt require electricity or anything. It even cleans the walls (I have a rounded edge).
Air bubbles are usually an air leak on the inlet side of the pump.
The filter basket is typically clear. It should fill with water completely; maybe a
quartquarter (USA coin) sized air bubble at the maximum.I kept thinking my Jandy Valves had an air leak, but once I changed out the 14-year-old pump, it finally solved the mystery!
Stuff I use for the threaded connections "Blue Oatey."
https://www.oatey.com/2370868/Product/N/Oatey-8-fl-oz-Great-Blue-Pipe-Joint-Compound
Original Pipe was thread into the pump; the PVC cemented in place. They used the "white threaded sealant" which leaked air after a few years. Cut and sectioned pipe, and installed these:
https://www.amazon.com/PACK-Hi-Temp-Union-Whisperflo-Intelliflo/dp/B00AKMV4K8/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1523290774&sr=8-2&keywords=2%22+pipe+connector+pool
LPT: If you haven't done PVC Pipe Cement the first dozen times is a nightmare. Buy a 4' length of PVC and a simple 2" joint. You want to "insert and twist" to get a good seal, practice makes perfect. I've done in the past with ease home building. Three years later, darn if I don't need a days practice to get back into the rhythm of doing that. Pool guys do this daily and make it so easy, but it is a learned skill.
The hot tub level is going back down at night. Your "Jandy one-way check valves" have rubber spring loaded seals. After five or ten years (?) common item to rebuild. Pretty simple. Screws into plastic, light pressure, turn screw backward until you feel a click, now forward. Helps keep you from cross threading the housing.
Sadly between a pool and septic field, I've gotten lots of practice on those valves!
https://www.jandy.com/en/products/valves/check
Damn finger typo's today, forgive me for not correctly linking those. I'm using copy-paste and dragon speak to type this morning. Time fo meds, just another day living with Parkinson's. Oh, I have a massive magnet on a stick for finding those screws when I drop them in the grass.
Aside from a good filtering setup, a cheap TDS tester like http://www.amazon.com/HM-Digital-TDS-EZ-Measurement-Resolution/dp/B002C0A7ZY/ will tell you if there's any increase in stuff in your water. You can measure your baseline for a while and if there's ever a perceptible change, you can test again. It won't tell you definitively what's dissolved in the water, but it can help you check.
Grab a TDS meter and see what the water looks like. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002C0A7ZY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_hi.xDbFM7VJRA
RO/DI water is great to use!
I don't have easy access to one either, but having read dozens of papers on sauna use (including decreasing all-cause mortality) I had to do something. I ended up buying one of these, best decision ever. Especially since I can do it at home while watching TV!
I think you should be fine using the maxigrow and cal-mag for now. I would not recommend using the rockdust or azomite though. You should get all you need in the maxigrow for now.
As for the TDS tester, I use this one It is cheap and works fine. It converts the PPM to EC by dividing the reading by 500. For example... 750PPM is going to give you a 1.5 EC. Some TDS testers in other countries will use a different conversion rate to get you the correct EC. EC is universal.
So lets say your peppers need to be at a EC from 1.3 - 1.8 "depending on the size." With the TDS meter I sent a link to, you would want your water to be at 650 PPM to 900 PPM. If your tap water is coming out of the tap already with a bunch of minerals already in it like 300 PPM worth, then you want to add your cal-mag and Maxigro until you hit that 650 to 900 PPM range.
As for your pH, you want to keep it as close to 6 as possible for peppers.
I'm not really sure what scale tbh, here is a link to the pen I got on Amazon if that helps at all. It might appear a lot lighter than it actually is due to my light in the tent being so bright white. Here are some pics with the tent light off and my phone flash on. I'm not sure if that's the right shade of green or not. I just watered them again after reading some info online with recommendations on Coco watering. I adjusted it to have some calmag in it and increased the Flora Grow and lowered the Flora Micro. Had a ppm of about 580 this time. Hoping it will make them happier.
Like most super powers, you can buy it for under $20
https://www.amazon.com/HM-Digital-TDS-EZ-Measurement-Resolution/dp/B002C0A7ZY
*first result I got on amazon. I'm not sure how good it is.
A fan, and/or those pressurized misters. Either for personal use, or for spraying your yard with pesticides. Any friggin' thing to keep cool.
http://www.amazon.com/Pressurized-Plant-Water-Mister-Sprayer/dp/B003LE0SLS
http://www.amazon.com/Chapin-20000-1-Gallon-Garden-Sprayer/dp/B000E28UQU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1370770845&sr=8-1&keywords=pesticide+sprayer
http://www.amazon.com/MistyMate-20009-Deluxe-Personal-Mister/dp/B005727E2I/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1370771088&sr=8-1&keywords=misty+mate
Also, the EZ Up/canopy/shade is a no brainer. $50 at Academy Sports.
http://www.academy.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Product_10151_10051_247717_-1__?color=Orange&N=610345069&Ntt=ez+up&Ntk=All
This is the salt tester I use it works great and is very accurate: https://www.amazon.com/Hayward-GLX-SALTMETER-Digital-Handheld-Meter/dp/B005IVZKKQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1475185291&sr=8-1&keywords=hayward+salt+tester
If I had the time I would always use the test kit for Salt which you can find here: https://www.amazon.com/TAYLOR-TECHNOLOGIES-INC-K-1766-CHLORIDE/dp/B001DO35EU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1475185345&sr=8-1&keywords=salt+test+kit
Also, if you are using strips you might want to consider going towards an actual test kit that is reliable such as this: https://www.amazon.com/Taylor-Technologies-K-2005-Test-Complete/dp/B00HEAQO5O/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1475185320&sr=8-3&keywords=taylor+test+kit+salt
The cheapest option would be to purchase the test kit for salt and continue using the strips. I recommend no strips and using the salt test kit and a normal Taylor test kit.
the Bluelabs gear is nice if you have the money.
I bought a simple $15 PH600 on amazon
http://www.amazon.com/Milwaukee-Instruments-PH600AQ-Tester-Calibration/dp/B005H78ZI0/ref=sr_1_1?s=lawn-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1334068927&sr=1-1
and just as cheap a TDS meter
http://www.amazon.com/HM-Digital-TDS-EZ-Tester-Purity/dp/B002C0A7ZY/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1334068952&sr=8-2
both work incredibly well
I have one of these Critter Skimmers in my pool. It works great for saving bugs and small animals from the skimmer. The make several sizes as well as a round version... http://amzn.com/B003G30FJE/?tag=3feetunder-20
Here. It is by no means a "lab grade" device but gives great reference readings when analyzing how much your plant is eating (for my DWC setup anyways). I've never grown in soil but see people run a sort of "reference flush" to compare their previous runoff from the last time they watered to judge if their plants are consuming more nutes or more water so they can adjust their amendments accordingly. I do the same sort of thing on my hempy buckets but it is just so much easier since my medium is inert.
Thank you.
I was considering these:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ESQMA8M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_yaIZCbCGK6VWK
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07P6JJQBM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_jbIZCbFJHS2QS
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IG9LZ4C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_SaIZCbV8MKYDS
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004KSRJXO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_5aIZCbVKNHCPE
How would you compare the Suction Vacuum (w/wheels) vs Kreepy Krauly?
The ones that you recommended are priced similar to vacuums.
Water tester and filter system. Best items I bought that year.
https://www.amazon.com/HM-Digital-TDS-EZ-Measurement-Resolution/dp/B002C0A7ZY/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1504296326&sr=8-3&keywords=water+tester
https://www.amazon.com/APEC-5-Stage-Reverse-Drinking-Water/dp/B00I0ZGOZM/ref=pd_sim_60_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=J4HVJXXMCEZP1BPW9F5D
Id rather use hard water than soft water. Too much salt buildup kills plants.
Take a sample to your local fish store if possible (Or purchase a PPM/PH meter) to find out your PPM and PH.
Anything above 300ppm gets a little sketchy and you will want an RO system.
PH can be altered but anything over a PH of 9 you will be using a ton of PH down.
If your PH and PPM are both below what I stated above I would still recommend something like a Small Boy filter for Chlorine/Chloramine and undissolved particles.
I just purchased a water testing kit https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06VVQ7Y2Q/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I will post back here once I test it. Thank you for all of your help.
My take on this:
Make a choice: either continue as you do it now (salt hard water, attempt to use water softener system, without reading what it does to the water and tank inhabitants), or monitor results of each your action, by testing (GH, KH, pH, TDS) and do quick search for anything you would like to implement. Like water softener system and aquarium, what to do for reducing GH in aquarium water, and do not do that without testing results. I'm not attempting to lecture in any way, if it seems so, my apologies, was not intended to. Only this seems to me to be the main source of a problem.
Not the best, but good enough flow chart of connections between water parameters and what to change them, is here. pH and alkalinity are connected.
To know them, you will need GH/KH test kit, pH test kit, and, if you feel generous ($25), TDS meter and calibrating solution from the same seller, 342 ppm TDS. Why know TDS is here, scroll down to kidneys.
Each kind of aquatic animals has own limit of tolerances, if you place soft water tetra in Tanganyika water, it wouldn't be happy, I would expect it to die. See what animals you have and what are their requirements (fast online search for a name and GH, TDS).
Know your tap water, if you are using it. Test the same: GH, KH, pH, TDS, and nitrates.
Ask here, in separate thread or in quick questions thread, if this water could be used for your fish without altering it. If yes, you are good, use it without changing anything.
If not, now you have to figure out what would you do: changing your tap water or create artificial water, using RO water and remineralizer, creating water, suitable for your fish.
For USA, reverse osmosis system with carbon block for chloramines could be as low as $133 at Home Depot, don't know its gpd. There is cheaper RO Buddie, read from their manufacturer about chloramines, compare the size and cost of cartridges and make informed choice.
If use RO water, it could be used for diluting too hard tap water or for mixing it with remineralizer.
Mixing RO with remineralizer:
If you will need diluting hard water, control result by testing, and test ratio first in a small container (jar, glass).
Any changes in the tank should be slow, to avoid shocking fish. Powders should never be added to the tank, see manufacturer's directions.
Some are using Seachem Neutral Regulator to recrease water hardness by precipitating Ca and Mg, but you have to monitor results by testing, or you can overdose and kill animals this way. Not familiar with it, read FAQ there and Seachem Support forums for it. No guessing or assumptions, know what you are doing, after running trial in a separate vessel.
It took some time for me to come to this too, you are not alone in this.
Well those roots look healthy to me. Just try the flushing. Here is a TDS I use for $16. Even if you do not go for the calibration solution gotta have it if you want to grow the dro.
Say each tub is this size:
http://www.amazon.com/Coleman-Lay-Z-Spa-Inflatable-Hot/dp/B00NB3P98G/ref=lp_2475557011_1_1?s=lawn-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1451510129&sr=1-1
Filled weight is 2700 lbs. Seven in the picture makes 18900 lbs. Hopefully that roof can support an extra 9 tons (not counting the tubs we can't see).
http://www.amazon.com/Critter-Skimmer-10-Inch-Square-Cover/dp/B003G30FJE/ref=pd_bxgy_petsupplies_text_z wow look at this! How nice!
After you transplant leave your light off for 24 hours to help with the shock. Sometimes hydro shops have used bulbs they will sell for cheap, depending on your ballast your should be able to run a 250 watt bulb if that's all you can find and afford. If the plants aren't in cubes I suggest letting the roots stay in the small clump of soil around them. You could wash the roots off but it will stress them more and when exposing them to lights you risk killing the roots. After you transplant fill right up to the bottom of the leaves that are growing. If you don't have a ph meter I suggest something like this. http://www.amazon.com/HM-Digital-TDS-EZ-Measurement-Resolution/dp/B002C0A7ZY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1396007211&sr=8-1&keywords=ph+meter Its fairly inexpensive and very easy to use. If all you have is less than $30 to spend I suggest the meter over a mh bulb and pick up a thermometer. Also since the plants will be in shock once you transplant them foiler feed with water (spray down the tops and bottoms of the leaves with clean soft water)
I'd make a tea from the soil your not using. Its not going to be the best but will give you some nutes if you can't afford to pick up bottles.
Glad to hear the hyperthermia is still working for you. I am still using it too, with some benefits. It isn’t fixing it all, but it does make me feel better.
I wish that the fasting was doing more for you. :(
I was debating on purchasing this personal infrared sauna to try out. Not sure though.
Was she ever on antibiotics for the lyme?
I would recommend epsom salt baths and an infrared sauna. You can buy a home one for like $140. It helps tremendously with that "poison in the blood" feeling and other detox issues.
https://www.amazon.com/Radiant-Saunas-Rejuvinator-Portable-Personal/dp/B00MX19M9E/ref=asc_df_B00MX19M9E/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=167151535350&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=12222919221939401729&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9002576&hvtargid=pla-275506914121&psc=1
Where do you guys live?
To be fair, tap water commonly has some ions in it - some salt, some rust. Which makes it conductive. Depending on a lake it can be less conductive than tap water. But that "depending" is pretty much the key. Unless you bring solid particle tester with you everywhere - you can't be sure.
Honestly, you can do much better for your money... There are kits in the Starter Shopping Lists to the right on the sidebar.
I was wondering the other day what exactly I would need for a turn-key grow setup, and put the following together. Mind you, this is not TOP of the line shit, but it will absolutely get you into the hobby!
600W Tube / Timer / MH & HPS Bulbs / Hangars / Ballast - $157.50
6 Inch Carbon Filter / 440CFM Fan - $149.75
25 Ft. 6 Inch Ducting - $19.10
48 x 48 x 78 Tent - $139.99
FFOF - $18.99
General Hydroponics Go Box Starter Kit - $35.95
CALIBER IV DIGITAL HYGROMETER - $19.23
Smart Pot Container - Pack of Five - $20.65
Micro-Tip Pruning Snip - $10.19
Light Duty Soft Wire Tie - $7.84
PH & Temperature Meter - $79.95
Water Quality TDS Tester - $15.59
LED Handheld Microscope - $16.81
Total just under 700$ and you are getting a LOT more for your money.
Don't blindly take that list, shop around, deal hunt, and do the research! There are many hidden costs associated with growing ><
I have a 16 X 32 inground pool and we have a 1 horsepower hayward super pump. I usually run it 24 hours a day. Sometimes I'll run it 12 hours at a time. For an above ground pool a 1/2 hp or 3/4 hp will be sufficient.
I bought one of these last Christmas. It's amazing for the money.
https://www.amazon.com/Coleman-SaluSpa-Inflatable-Hot-Tub/dp/B00NB3P98G/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1541382000&amp;sr=8-1-spons&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&amp;keywords=hot+tub&amp;psc=1
I run a DWC and use this for a PPM meter. Does the job. Feel free to PM me if you have any questions or want to chat.
I had the very same thought as your title earlier today.
I do both hot and cold, and I intend to buy one of those cheap, portable saunas at Amazon, like this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MX19M9E/ref=s9_acsd_top_hd_bw_b2hX9Nr_c_x_w?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&amp;pf_rd_s=merchandised-search-3&amp;pf_rd_r=CDXQWG5R25YGD73PNMKK&amp;pf_rd_t=101&amp;pf_rd_p=788ce2a6-23ee-5189-9fd0-fe6ba382ba01&amp;pf_rd_i=2475549011
Heat has it's own therapeutic value. There is no law against doing both.
BTW, I'm trying to be an informed pool owner and I'm taking what you've said to heart.
>The prospective owner has mentioned the "hydraulics" work up these guys have done for his pool - mentioning 50' (of head, I assume - although where that number comes from, I have no idea), and to think that a 25,000 gallon pool will turnover twice a day...
Can you send me the hydraulic curve chart you're referring to? I got my information from Amazons performance data and I'm assuming on the very high side there'd be about 50' of pvc pipe from the pump to the pool
They most certainly do, however there's no way 4 people are sitting in there comfortably. Two is the max for me.
They can also be referred to as total dissolved solids or TDS. You can purchase a TDS/TSS meter to measure that, but you should do some research first to understand what you're measuring and what your TDS is in your water source.
If you want shrimp for algae control, look at amano shrimp, which are usually large enough to fend for themselves when housed with a betta. In a 5 gal, one would certainly do the trick.
I have this model http://www.amazon.com/Pentair-GW9500-Automatic-Cleaner-In-Ground/dp/B002G9U17U Several friends of mine have had this model for 7-8 years. It is simple and cheap to repair also.
Radiant Saunas BSA6310 Rejuvenator Portable Sauna https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MX19M9E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_1WS3xb0KGHBMQ
Most places in town with a sauna or pool will run you at least $40 a month. I opted for a cheaper gym membership and bought this portable sauna off Amazon - https://amzn.to/2zqbzsQ. Works really well.
I am using this device:
http://www.amazon.com/HM-Digital-TDS-EZ-Measurement-Resolution/dp/B002C0A7ZY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1452279486&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=water+quality+tester
I used this device on :
To answer your question:
I use a large Sear's wet dry because I had it already. It has a hose discharge so I don't have to empty it manually. I just vacuum up the bottom with long hose extensions. When the vacuum is full, I discharge the dirty pond water to my plants and bushes.
There are custom pond vacuums like this [OASE] (https://www.amazon.com/OASE-PondoVac-Classic-Vacuum-Cleaner/dp/B004HIHUTA) which are not expensive and works pretty much the same.
But you can build your own vacuum that works on the same theory as a fish tank one. You build it from PVC pipes and it uses suction from your garden hose to draw out the water. Ask on this [forum] (http://www.gardenpondforum.com). I either saw it there or someone there invented it.
Let me provide a solution: https://smile.amazon.com/Swimline-Hydrotools-70200-Swimming-Froglog/dp/B00SZAFDZY/ref=sr_1_2
Salamanders and the very odd mouse are pretty much all I find in my pool now. It used to be chipmunks and frogs on an almost daily basis. I've watched a chipmunk use one of mine..
>PPM of what? Lead, Arsenic, Copper, Chlorine, Minerals, Toluene, Vinyl Chloride... There's a lot of things with some ppm in your water, but I'm not directly aware of anything that is the highest in the nation. Where are you getting that information?
I'm honestly not sure what it is in it, but I know the levels are high as hell and I'm not OK with that, which is why I reverse osmosis filter my drinking water. Here is what I do know. I bought a PPM pen off Amazon ( https://www.amazon.com/HM-Digital-TDS-EZ-Measurement-Resolution/dp/B002C0A7ZY) and I test my drinking water. I'll do my own testing when the testers are so readily available and cheap. Mine will usually test between 300-350 PPM. If you don't believe me, buy one yourself and come over here to Plano and test it yourself.
Here is a map of water hardness in the US:
https://www.h2odistributors.com/pages/info/hard-water-map.asp
According to this map I should be seeing 120-180 PPM, but mine is twice that. According to Water Quality Association Classification that is Holy fuck your water is beyond hard classification, which means it's some of the highest in the nation, according to that. I've also did some digging and asking in other forums over the years on this and I even take my pen with me on business trips for my own personal amusement and yeah, my own testing pretty much tells me we're in company with the highest tested levels in the nation. Your own quotes above say as much, with the one NTMWD city you quoted, Richardson, being 620 ppm.
Just because WHO says it's ok to drink a 900 ppm puddle of water in Africa doesn't mean that is what I should expect from my US tap water for what I pay for it.
This has taken my attention. Not sure how well they actually work though, but certainly cheaper.
https://www.amazon.com/TAYLOR-TECHNOLOGIES-INC-K-1766-CHLORIDE/dp/B001DO35EU/ref=pd_bxgy_86_img_2?_encoding=UTF8&amp;pd_rd_i=B001DO35EU&amp;pd_rd_r=9E1HJ22ZFG1HCRKJCBHH&amp;pd_rd_w=or2a0&amp;pd_rd_wg=4c4Ws&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=9E1HJ22ZFG1HCRKJCBHH This test kit will do the trick. Easy to use and accurate.
I have a Misty Mate and a Frogg Toggs Towel. I can't handle Bonnaroo heat so I arm myself to the teeth with ways to cool down.
I got the pH meter above, and this TDS meter, whilst my cabinet is monitored inside and at exhaust exit with this temp/humidity gauge with min/max for all fields.
Combined price is < $60.
Seems to work just fine.
But I do like the gizmo you linked to. Maybe for a hydro setup?
It measures the total dissolved solids in the water, which for the most part is what matters, buy one, stick it in the water. If it reads under 50ppm it's fine. If it's over it's no good.
Linky
Like so?
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MX19M9E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_ep_dp_I0ZoybTSC2BEF
You will want this. Tap water you say? That is the likely culprit. So you will need this, and this. After this your troubles should be gone.
These are what I use. They work just fine.
pH:
http://www.amazon.com/Milwaukee-Instruments-pH600AQ-Tester-Calibration/dp/B005H78ZI0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1348464821&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=milwaukee+ph+test
TDS/EC:
http://www.amazon.com/HM-Digital-TDS-EZ-Auto-off-Function/dp/B002C0A7ZY/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1348464821&amp;sr=8-6&amp;keywords=milwaukee+ph+test
Looks a lot like ours. (Your "holding tank" is a mate to ours -- I assume it's a settling tank; can't think of any other real function for it).
Here's what I use for the pH adjustment: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002WKM4A0/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Same sized tank, and I use 2 teaspoons for each fill, though your mileage may vary, depending on your starting pH and pump I suppose. I think each teaspoon makes the equivalent of a gallon of bleach (I need to find a source for that, but that's what's in my head).
I have this one, works well for me and apparnetly measures 0-9990 ppm.
HM Digital (brand) TDS meter with 342 ppm calibration solution for it. On the back it has to have "Calibrate with NaCl" screw. This one was available locally.
Water Tech Pool Blaster Catfish Li Pool & Spa Cleaner https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002GT91SK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_jHXyDbHKNAF2C
Tds tester from amazon
HM Digital TDS-EZ Water Quality TDS Tester, 0-9990 ppm Measurement Range , 1 ppm Resolution, +/- 3% Readout Accuracy https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002C0A7ZY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_YGc-ybYV4Q0QV
You might want to get a critter-safe skimmer cover.
&#x200B;
https://www.amazon.com/Critter-Skimmer-10-Inch-Square-Cover/dp/B003G30FJE
El cheapo: http://www.amazon.com/HM-Digital-TDS-EZ-Measurement-Resolution/dp/B002C0A7ZY
These cheap ones don't adjust to temperature, so you'll have to consider that if you're reporting your values for some kind of project. They calibrate it at 25 degrees C, so any temp lower than that is going to over-estimate your TDS.
pH is as simple as getting a test kit at a pet store.
https://www.amazon.com/Coleman-Lay-Spa-Inflatable-Hot/dp/B00NB3P98G
It is a portable sauna. The product description has been edited. Same product from Amazon.
I guess this ain't happening at my tent
https://www.amazon.com/Coleman-SaluSpa-Inflatable-Hot-Tub/dp/B00NB3P98G
Cheap TDS (total dissolved solids) testing kit:
https://www.amazon.com/HM-Digital-TDS-EZ-Measurement-Resolution/dp/B002C0A7ZY
Or any meter that measures EC/TDS.
Portable sauna.
Or buy this: Intex 77in PureSpa Portable Bubble Massage Spa Set https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HHO0IEU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_vgNnDbDNRGF1X
I get about 3 years of use before I have to replace it.
>Where would one get such a meter?
This is the one I bought.
HM Digital TDS-EZ Water Quality TDS Tester, 0-9990 ppm Measurement Range , 1 ppm Resolution, +/- 3% Readout Accuracy https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002C0A7ZY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_dqfrzbBA5R7QJ
There's also this wonderful invention that keeps frogs from making themselves into soup in your filter!
https://www.amazon.com/Critter-Skimmer-10-Inch-Square-Cover/dp/B003G30FJE
body sauna
You need this
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00SZAFDZY/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_awdb_qbUzzbVB6ERHW
You could've just gotten this, it's a digital water quality tester:
https://smile.amazon.com/HM-Digital-TDS-EZ-Measurement-Resolution/dp/B002C0A7ZY/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1493673452&amp;sr=8-8&amp;keywords=water+testing+kit
Maybe someone should buy MIL some of these as a late Mother's Day present.
wat
I would think it would give you a basic idea of quality.
$15.37 HM Digital TDS-EZ Water Quality TDS Tester, 0-9990 ppm Measurement Range , 1 ppm Resolution, +/- 3% Readout Accuracy
https://www.amazon.com/HM-Digital-TDS-EZ-Measurement-Resolution/dp/B002C0A7ZY/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1503463109&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=water+testing+meter
I edited it in. This one.
http://www.amazon.com/HM-Digital-TDS-EZ-Measurement-Resolution/dp/B002C0A7ZY
I took this last year. I took it out of the case and put it in a backpack with my camelbak. Didn't have to pump it very often and the tank lasted at least as long as my water supply did.
Here is the mobile version of your link
I have the same one. TDS meter reads in single digits.
Would this work out?
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B002C0A7ZY/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1414341438&amp;amp;sr=8-1&amp;amp;pi=SY200_QL40
Or this one?
http://mobile.walmart.com/ip/19582190?wmlspartner=wlpa&amp;adid=22222222228015536541&amp;wl0=&amp;wl1=g&amp;wl2=m&amp;wl3=40872537152&amp;wl4=&amp;wl5=pla&amp;wl6=78764899592&amp;veh=sem
Invest in some calcium hypochlorite. One pound purifies 10,000 gallons.
I tested the distilled i was using and it read less than 5. Then my tap was 400, my shrimp tnak was 385 and my 20 gallon fish tank was at 550. So i think it was reading right. I ordered this one. http://www.amazon.com/HM-Digital-TDS-EZ-Measurement-Resolution/dp/B002C0A7ZY?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;redirect=true&amp;ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00
Im not sure there is a way to change it and i think it only measures PPM