Reddit mentions: The best pool cleaning tools & chemicals

Well - first off, everything is much newer and in better shape than I expected.
Like I said you should be able to get copies of all of the manuals ( if you do not already have them) on line. In particular the pump/strainer and the filter.
If the pool is just green, and not too much real debris, you can probably get it running as soon as you fill it up. Even if you keep it covered, I would get it up an running so you can learn about everything now.

Pics - 1&8 Muriatic Acid, very strong, and it is hazardous, but also very effective. I prefer using this. As for the condition, it is probably OK...

2 - Fountain , yes decorative only

3 - Liner cleaner, I am assuming the pool needs to be empty to use this. If there is a date on it and less than 2-3 years you could keep it. You may have a ring on the liner where the water level is now. This may help. - but I have not used this and do not know how damaging it is if a little gets into the water.

4 - > Looks like a handle, perhaps for maintenance of something. ( ref the manuals)

5 - No idea, looks serious and like a lot of it. Check the manuals.

6&10, 13-no label, double wrap in heavy plastic bag, and trash it. ( if inside it is tablets then it is chlorine - I would keep tablets, but any unmarked powers, granular, liquids - trash)

7- Pretty sure this is the vacuum cleaner attachment, you set this on top of the skimmer, and connect the vacuum hose for suction.

9 - Yes it is a part you probably want, it may be a discharge fitting to help with draining the pool.

11 - the safer alternative to the Nuriatic acid. Worth keeping.

12 - just an another alternate. Since it has a label it should say specifically what the chemical is. ( Keep for now)

14 - no idea, too small to be for the pump. Perhaps a charging cable for the fountain?

15 - I agree - looks to be the same part, but one may have come with the skimmer, and one with the vacuum. Keep

16 - Same ( they may fit different size vacuum hoses, etc.)

17 Keep

18 - too blurry, but also looks like lube ( did the previous owner have a boat?)

19 - the pole on the vacuum ( background) has spring buttons, so the pole is used for the skimmer net, brushes and the vacuum.

20 - no idea - have fun

22 - that looks like the type of brush used to clean a boat ( more evidence) If he had a boat the Lube in 5 and possibly 18, may also explain 20)

23 - the hose going to the Strainer Backet will be connected to the SKimmer on the side of the pool. ( that is the intake,)

• The other hose should go to the filter
  
  24 -25 - Yes - the Strainer basket, pump and pump motor are all one assembly. ( Is the electrical cord terminated with a reguar plug??)
  
  Looks to be in OK shape - but not the cleanest / neatest assembly.
  
  26 - Yes - filter
  
  27 - Pressure gauge ( indicates how dirty the filter is, but also that there is water flowing - etc)
  
  28 - Paper cartridge filter ( what I can see looks to be in good shape) - when you get up and running this should be very low to little maintenance over the course of a summer. But for now - get up and running as it is, when the pool clears up - you may want to remove and hose this down. - will take about 20 minutes.
  
  29 - Yes - I have an in-ground with paper - and have been amazed how well these work and how little maintenance. I have not replaced mine, I give them a good cleaning in the fall when I close.
  
  30-31 - Yep
  
  32 - Yep - check both ends of the hose for the fit.
  
  36 - Yep ( may want to replace this)
  
  37 - this one is newer and a little prettier - and has the deluxe termo!
  
  38 - Skimmer basket - take to the pool store and get a new one.
  
  39 - Plug for winterizing - this will plug the wall nozzle ( return)
  
  40 -- Bottom of the Skimmer - see the same plug type.
  
  45 - Skimmer net (doe not go IN the Skimmer) just what I call it...- not perfect, use this for the clean up and get a new one for regular maintenance in the future. ( so you do not beat up a new on doing the initial cleaning)
  
  OK -- so like I said not too bad....
  
  Connections --
  Side Skimmer hose - to strainer basket on the pump. Exit of the pump with hose to the filter housing, will need to check the manual for which in the inlet and outlet on the filter housing (probably labeled though). Hose from exit of filter to the nozzle on the side next to the skimmer ( Pic 43). ( You should have three hose sections - to do this)
  
  If you can get a small water pump, like a sump pump wihhout the float switch. LIKE THIS - you will use this over the winters to keep the water off of the cover in the future. ( There are automatic ones - but I have found that a basic pump like this - and turning it on manually lasts longer and costs less - it is OK to have water on the cover for a short period of time, you just do not want it on there to grow stuff collect debris)
  
  Pump the water off of the cover, then remove it.
  
  Hard to tell really how bad the water in the pool is - but I would probably go ahead and use that and top it off, instead of completely draining and refilling.
  
  If you want to empty it completely - you can use the pump, but may need to rearrange the hoses to get one long enough to go over the wall and to the bottom. ( I guess you could hook up the vacuum - but this will slow down the process)
  
  The important thing is to make sure the pump has water when you turn it on. You will probably have to prime it, by filling the strainer basket with the garden hose and then replace the cover.
  
  Monitor the pump when starting up and make sure it does not run empty after this for more than 1 minute or so - it may take some time to get the water flowing if you are using the vacuum and the water level is too low.
  
  Put the hose in, start filling,
  
  

• Go to Kmart or other store and get 3-4 1lb bags of Chlorine Shock. They MAY have the skimmer basket ( other wise go to the pool store for that).
  
• • 2 ( 4 !) lb Baking soda ( yes regular baking soda)
    
• Get a Chlorine / PH test kit ( LIKE THIS)
  
  You can get the water tested now - typically free at the pool store, but you will be making a few adjustments and at first, we just need it chlorinated and cleaned up.
  
  30' round 52" pool is ... 21K Gallons. I did not realize they had so much water! - anyway the pool store will want to know this and they typically will set up a record in their system. This will help them tell you how much of the chemicals you will need in the future. But do not let them sell you a bunch of chemicals right now - the water is so out of balance right now I do not think a test will be very useful)
  
  If you are not going to completely drain the pool, once filled and connected, add 2 Lbs of the Shock. -- and start running the pump. I would add the 2lbs of Baking Soda now, but others may disagree...- actually 21K Gal you can use 4 lbs.
  
  Once running for 3-4 hours test the Chlorine and PH , keep CL above 3.0 for a day. - I am pretty sure you will see remarkable difference in 1 day.
  
  OK - I got to go back to work - haha

Yeah, I agree. Ceradyn is a great option, thanks for bringing it up. For reference, they are available on Amazon:

http://www.amazon.com/Katadyn-Drip-Ceradyn-Water-Filter/dp/B0007U010W/

Actually the Gravidyn is a tiny bit cheaper - this is the one I have:

http://www.amazon.com/Katadyn-Drip-Gravidyn-Water-Filter/dp/B0007U011G/

For anyone who's wondering, yes, the two systems are identical except for the filters that come with. You can put Ceradyn filters in the Gravidyn setup, and vice versa.

The filters are quite delicate, though, and prone to cracking and breakage. You need to inspect them carefully for hairline fractures when you get them. For example, one of the ones in my Gravidyn was broken on arrival. I convinced Amazon to send me a spare one (rather than having to send the whole system back). Also, when I was moving stuff around in one of my storage closets in the garage, I accidentally dropped one of the spare Gravidyn filters on the concrete floor. It was inside its protective cardboard box, but it still broke. I was heartbroken - such a waste of money from a moment's clumsiness. Make sure to treat these things with kid gloves!

For completeness, here are the spare filters - Gravidyn:

http://www.amazon.com/Katadyn-20720-Gravidyn-Replacement-Element/dp/B0007U011Q/

And Ceradyn:

http://www.amazon.com/Katadyn-Ceradyn-Replacement-Filter-Element/dp/B0007U0116/

Hope it's ok posting links like this... I have no stake, not connected with the company at all etc.

The Monolithic filters are also interesting, and they claim to remove arsenic and lead as well. I would be concerned with arsenic in the surface water around here, though it might only be something that is in ground water (i.e. from wells etc). Anyway, these are very simple and cheap too, you can make a bucket filter around one of these little things and have a basic system. I don't know how much formal testing they have had, but they seem to be used a lot in 3rd world countries.

http://www.monolithic.org/water-filters

http://www.monolithicmarketplace.com/collections/frontpage/products/just-water-ceramic-drip-filter

As I said earlier, if I ever have to use the creek water, then I intend for the Monolithic to be the first stage, then treat with calcium hypochlorite (pool shock - 78% TurboShock from Poolife is the best I've found), then treat again with the Katadyn to remove the chlorine and just do another round of filtering in general. I figure I should be covering my bases with this.

http://www.amazon.com/POOLIFE-Poolife-TurboShock-1-lb/dp/B0017SSFU6

And also in case anybody's interested: To treat water with calcium hypochlorite, first make a bleach solution (NOT FOR DRINKING!) by adding a heaped teaspoon to 2 gallons of water. Then you can treat drinking water with this by using 1:100 ratio (i.e. for every 1 part bleach solution, 100 parts water). This should make it obvious that the calcium hypochlorite is pretty concentrated stuff - you shouldn't be trying to treat drinking water directly. First make the solution, then use that to treat the water. For reference, the 1:100 ratio translates into roughly 2.5-3 tablespoons of solution per gallon of drinking water, or 3/4-1 cup to every 5 gallons of water (if you're treating by the bucket). I give a range since it might be easier to measure 3 tablespoons and 1 cup rather than fractions like 2.5 and 3/4, and I think it's probably true that a little over treatment won't do any harm, especially if you are filtering it out anyway. Let the water stand for at least half an hour when treating, the longer the better. Contact time is important for killing the viruses etc.

Also, the pool shock is hard to store safely, since it produces chlorine. Anything metal will get corroded over time. The best method I have found is to use the mason jars with the metal canning lids (the ones that come in two parts). The 1 lb packs of TurboShock fit nicely in a 1/2 gallon jar. I know the lid is metal, but it has a plastic coating on the inside, and those lids are the best sealing I have found. I can put three jars inside a plastic 5 gallon bucket that has been sealed with a Gamma spintop lid. Then I can check on them every few months, and I'll know immediately if the jars have been leaking inside the bucket, because you'll be hit with the chlorine as soon as you open the bucket. I figure if the metal lids start rusting, then I'll just see what their safe lifetime is, and treat them as consumable items. A box of lids is only a few bucks, so replacing them every six months or year or whatever is no big deal. I also wrap the jars inside the bucket in bubble wrap, just so they won't break against each other if things are thrown around during an earthquake. With 3 lbs of the calcium hypochlorite, I'm ready to disinfect a LOT of pond water! Maybe also useful as bartering material in the event of a long term service outage, you never know.

Oh, and one last thing - I got a set of long handled measuring spoons, so that I will be able to reach inside the jars to get the pool shock out without having to tip them up or whatever, risking getting this toxic substance on my skin or in my eyes (big nope).

http://www.amazon.com/ChefLand-Set-Sizes-Stainless-Ingredients/dp/B00AEUR6K8

I know metal isn't good with calcium hypochlorite, but I'm not storing them with the stuff and their contact time will be minimal, and I'll be washing them after each use. I just figure it's useful to try to consider the practicalities of how you will use stuff in reality... also, I'll probably not make 2 gallons, but rather only 1 gallon at a time, which will mean a heaped 1/2 teaspoon of pool shock. And how to store the bleach solution? I found some nice 1 gallon jars with plastic lids for that:

http://www.amazon.com/1-gallon-USDA-Fermentation-Glass-Jar/dp/B006ZRBGSC

The solution should be good for a couple of weeks, I think, if stored in a cool dark place. I guess you could also use it to treat your bucket toilet, so maybe you won't waste much.

Sorry, as you can tell I have thought way too much about this stuff. :P

I am by no means an expert but here's what I do as a hot tub owner:

• Empty and refill for sure. Don't forget to turn off electricity before you drain it. Here's a neat trick. Put one end of the garden hose inside the full tub. Turn the water on so it fills the hose and starts filling the hot tub. Then disconnect the spigot end of the hose and make sure that end is lower than the hot tub water level / base. The tub should start draining. Once you refill, don't forget to turn on the power.
  
• I use bromine instead of chlorine because bromine dissolves slower and requires less maintenance. I bought a floating dispenser like this one from Amazon. It makes maintenance a lot easier. Fill it once with bromine tablets, check weekly.
  
• Definitely buy the test strips.
  
• Here are the other chemicals I use:
  
  • SpaGuard oxidizer (shock).
    
  • Amerse PH & Alkalinity Up.
    
    The brand doesn't really matter. I get them from Amazon.
    
• I keep the hot tub at 80-85F in the winter since I don't really use it. If you're going to use it often, and want it available fast, you can keep it at 98-100F. It costs money of course. for most tubs, I'd guess about $10-20/month but do your own math.
  
• I also have a hot tub bubble cover. It's very cheap but helps quite a bit.
  
• Here's my routine when not in use:
  
  • Once a week, run the jets and use the test strip to check the water. I have a 350 gallon tub. I add 3 tablespoons of shock and 2 tablespoons of "ph & alk up" even if the levels are fine. If any of the level is low, add more. If high, add less. I inspect the floating bromine dispenser and make sure it's got enough bromine. Adjust the level of the dispenser if bromine is too high or low. Run the jets for 15-20 minutes. That's it!
    
  • If you use the tub often, do the above step more often. Do it 20-30 minutes before you use it if you can. Buy a second filter. Replace the filter occasionally (based on use) and clean the filter you're not using with a filter cleaner and water.
    
  • Replace and refill water every 6 months if you use it often. 9-12 months if not very often.
    
  • If you see any growth of algae or if you see it foaming too much when you run, you need to be proactive.
    
  • If you use the tub often, you might want to invest in some chemicals to remove body oils etc.
    
    When I first got the house, I had a guy (former pool shop guy) who came in, cleaned the tub, and gave me a rundown of the chemicals I had inherited from the previous owner. You can use the nextdoor app to find out who the reliable pool people in your area are.
    
    Good luck!

Afraid I can't speak for the Dolphin since I've never worked with it. As for the others:

The Hayward functions well. It's an old design; tried and true. It'll climb walls and follow a pattern. Of the non-robotic cleaners you mentioned, it'll end up costing the most in maintenance. Nothing to break the bank, but it has gears, bearings, and feet that eventually wear down. If you're mechanically minded, they're not hard to break down and clean/rebuild. Maybe $50 a season starting in a year or two depending on the mileage.

(Aside: They've released a new cleaner that's meant to be a bit of a replacement that's worth looking at too. A bit sturdier and more modular. I liked the simplicity of working on it, what chances I got.)

Avoid the Smartpool. Sold these things and they can work very well. This might have changed, but as of last year you don't get a warranty if you buy online. And it's just about useless without that. I'd say 30% of the ones we put into the market came back within the year with some issue. The first gen had cord issues that they corrected. WITH the warranty we'd have a free replacement part, tune up, and test, and you'd be back in business within a few days. Without a warranty, you're SOL. Get it in store or don't get it at all.

For the Baracuda and Kreepy, you'll be getting one of the simplest, no BS cleaner types on the market. For wear and tear, they've got a diaphragm and the foot pad. Easy day. However, that mechanical simplicity also means they function simply. They might not climb the walls, depending on pressure/slope/depth. They'll also be random in their pattern. Not uncommon to have them loitering in certain areas.

The BIGGEST thing I can say about any cleaner you get, it's not a 100% set and forget solution. Take care of it! If you're going out of town, by all means leave it in the pool on a timer. It's great to come back to sparkling water; that's the whole point of a cleaner!

Don't, however, leave it in 24/7 exposed to the sun and chemicals. I've seen three year old Hayward Navigators that looked like they'd been drug through a minefield with repair costs higher than buying a new one. I've also seen Navigators that were over a decade old, bleached white, but still trucking with the occasional part replacement. Like a lawnmower, you've got to hose it off occasionally, check the insides, and keep it stored when not in use. If you do that, your $500 will go a long, long way.

The pond looks lovely!

I'm not a landscaping professional but an environmental engineer and what you basically want to do here is dredging so I feel I can offer you some advice.

If you want to do this more or less for free you'll need a rake and a some sort of boat. You can scoop the leaves out. It will take a lot of man hours, especially if this hasn't happened in the last 30 years. You can use the decaying leaves, by making a compost pile and letting them compost for a while longer before use in your garden. I wouldn't worry about wildlife here too much. Species that life in these types of highly organic, low in oxygen sediments aren't threatened and really don't do much good for the ecological balance in a pond like this. You can leave the leaves at the banks for a couple of days if you want to save the frog population, they'll get out and back into the water.

Alternatively you can buy a pond vacuum cleaner (something like this http://www.amazon.com/OASE-PondoVac-Classic-Vacuum-Cleaner/dp/B004HIHUTA). It will cost you about 200 bucks and you'll still need a boat and plenty of man hours. Your pond is quite large.

And a third alternative: you can hire a company to do it for you. They'll bring professional equipment and get the job done quickly. That will be 500 bucks or more though, depending on where you live.

After you've removed the sediments you're not done though. I'm suprised you mentioned not having algae problems. Have you seen the pond during warm weather yet? In a pond with a big amount of leaves I'd expect some algal blooms or duckweed covers during summer. If you do experience troubles with that you might want to consider putting a layer of 20 cm or so of clean sand to cover up the current sediment. The quality of that sediment won't be very good for aquatic live (very eutrophic with a high oxygen demand). A layer of clean sand will soften the effects.

Also, in the future you do need to prevent a new leave build up. You can prevent the majority of leaves from getting in by putting a net over it in autumn/winter or by cutting down trees close to the pond (a 10 meter perimeter will do).

Would you like to leave the pond as it is or would you like to use it for swimming or for fish? If you'd like to keep fish or clean enough water for humans to swim, you'll need some additional work like trying to develop a healthy vegetation (helps to keep the water clear and oxygenated).

>With the raft, don't the roots sit in water?

 

Yes and no. What you want to do is get enough foam so that about half of inch sits outside the water at all time. This allows the roots to breath outside of the water (like the DWC). Again, don’t let this part get dry or it can cause air pruning. You can do this by allowing the net pot to sit a little higher in the foam, planting higher in the net pot, or getting a little thicker foam.

 

I am attaching a link to MPH Gardener. I would say look over his stuff. He is pretty freakin’ awsome.

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oDYeffYcVkY

 

>Can you recommend all the testing equipment I need or provide an Amazon link?

 

You will need a PPM and pH meter. These are two cheap version I use. You can go as crazy as you want, just remember the cheaper the more you replace them.

 

pH: http://www.amazon.com/Etekcity%C2%AE-Accuracy-Measurement-Resolution-Handheld/dp/B00FJFEB2O/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1427150876&sr=8-1&keywords=ph+meter

 

pH Callibration Liquid: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007X5KAV4/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_2?pf_rd_p=1944687462&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B004HE7W42&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=118RAVZJW5YGE1CB5EE9

 

PPM: http://www.amazon.com/HM-Digital-TDS-EZ-Measurement-Resolution/dp/B002C0A7ZY/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1427150876&sr=8-3&keywords=ph+meter

 

>With lettuce greens, I think the raft would work. Perhaps I'll do DWC with tomatoes; I think it would be hard with greens.

 

That sounds great. Watch the MPH Gardener on his Dutch bucket tomatoes first. I will preface with he does use MiracleGro for his nutrients, which is a highly debated topic. So take the nutrients with a grain of salt.

 

>How do you swap out water? Do you just do a 100% water change? Is that cost-effective with the price of nutrients?

 

I do do a 100% water change every two weeks. You can check the level of nutrients and try adding them; however, I have an outside garden during the summer and just put the nutrients there which does wonders for them.

 

Also, it gives me a chance to add in bacteria as I need it.

 

There are methods for balancing the pH, nutrients, and keeping the same water; however, as a beginner I would not get into this. If you want to we can talk but just swap the nutrients out as you go.

 

And this is where I will highlight that you want a shallow reservoir because you want to keep the minimum water you need to not to waste nutrients. I would say go to a hardware store and ikea and see what bins will work.

 

>Do I need to paint my plastic bin black to deter mold growth? Thanks so much for your help!

 

Yes and no. There are ways to go around managing algae with either pond products or barley straw mats, but to be honest sealing off holes and painting things black is the easiest.

 

Keep in mind that if you are going to have high heat in the room a white reservoir might be better than black.

Thanks for the shoutout! Glad I could be of some help!

Ok, so let's get started.

First, what part of Texas are you in? I believe you have native CP's closer to the eastern part of the state.

Now to answer your questions:

1. Here's a summary of CP expert Barry Rice's trip to eastern Texas. It has various CPs listed. I'm not certain about non-CP Texas natives.
   
   
2. I use this brand of Sphagnum Peat Moss exclusively. It's higher quality than many other brands. It also expands to about 4cu ft from what I understand.
   As far as the next ingredient, I go with Silica Sand which is also called pool filter sand. Do not use play sand, paver sand, etc. only Silica Sand/ Pool Filter sand. This is the brand that I use. I've hear Quikrete makes some, but it's not available in my area. I typically do a 50/50 or 60/40 mix. If your area is fairly dry, I'd probably do a 60 Sphagnum/ 40 Sand mix. You can add perlite if you'd like, but I'm not sure it's necessary. Other optional additions are long pine needles and long fiber sphagnum top layer. Long fiber sphagnum as a top layer would be good if your climate is fairly dry as it will supplement the plants with some humidity.
   
   
3. When you say large mini-bog, are you meaning that you want to keep it in a container like I have, or do you actually want to build it in ground? As far as in ground, I'm really not experienced with this. As far as water goes, get yourself a rain barrel. Make sure you test it with a TDS meter before using it (should be under 45 or so PPM). 1 inch of rain on a 1000 sq/ft roof will yield around 600 gallons. You can often make a rain barrel easily from a food-grade 55 gallon drum. Just check your local craigslist and you can pick them up for around $10-$20 and there are many guides on how to transform them for around another $20. These will cut down greatly on water costs. If you get fancy with it, you could possibly hook up a drip irrigation system that would be buried in the bog and water could release from the rain barrel with a hose valve timer. This would water from underneath and would simulate their natural habitat.

I'm making the same costume for my wife. I found flexible pvc spa hose on Amazon. It is rigid enough to hold it's shape, but flexible enough to bend: https://www.amazon.com/Sun2Solar-1%C2%BD-inch-Flexible-Above-Ground-Swimming/dp/B06W2N4Q1T/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=spa+hose&qid=1558119853&s=gateway&sr=8-5

I'm planning to add the "ribs" from her tentacles by using pipe insulation foam around the spa hose, and then shaping it with fine sand paper. Foam insulation is here: https://www.lowes.com/pd/Frost-King-1-in-x-6-ft-Foam-Plumbing-Tubular-Pipe-Insulation/3133247 . I'm still trying to figure out the best way to add that "alien skin" look to the tentacles. I'm looking into silicone molding, but it looks pretty advanced for me.

Good luck!

We have a kitchen cupboard full of Nuun electrolyte tablets because my SO subscribed to them on Amazon and never unsubscribed. I'm looking forward to them being used. They are super great though.

I've been meaning to go through this thread from last year to see what people recommended.

My recomendations are;

A big vacuum insulated growler (why is that the American word for drink bottle?!) to put in your bike basket/pannier so you can have a cold drink after hours of riding around.

This screw top pot of smelly stuff for clearing your sinuses. It's herbs that smell like vix vapor rub and it's great, especially on the playa.

This battery operated personal mister that goes in the cup holder my bike already had.

Pickle flavored candy canes. These didn't even make it to the playa last year. I ate them all within a day of them being delivered.

If you use rebar (like for monkey huts, I don't think lag bolts are really an alternative there) this will be your favorite thing at pack down.

Sort answer Teflon Teflon Teflon on the threads. Gizmos can be used with teflon and do serve double function that way. Pool_Guy was getting at that issue. They plug the skimmer line as well as anything physically possible and protect against freeze expansion. They also make a special Gizmo of a special kind or different name. That has o-rings at the bottom threads. But also has a cap at the top which can be removed and can blow the skimmer out above the water level of the pool. So 1) Put in the Gizmo/ Gizmos. 2) Remover the caps. 3) Blow the skimmers out. 4) When skimmer line and Gizmo are COMPLETELY empty...and they can be. Replace the caps.http://www.amazon.com/Gizzmo-MWUG-Skimmer-Protection-Blowout/dp/B004VU8H5U. Also open all valves. When blowing out returns they can be done in order from closest to furthest. This will ensure the best blowout. The air is going to displace water and take the path of least resistance i.e. the bubbles are gonna be huge at closest return and lesser at furthest. Just plug them in order of closest to furthest. You will be doing the best possible way. Keep in mind on deep stuff water is also an insulator.

The first and best thing you can do is go to TroubleFreePool.com and read everything in their Pool School section. Make sure you pay extra attention to the sections on the SLAM protocol and the chemical info. Feel free to message me (or post over there) if you have any questions.

Regardless of what people might have told you, pools can be pretty easy to take care of, especially after you get them going. Preventative maintenance is way easier than falling behind. Owning a pool is like having a pet: Even if you don't want to play with it, you still have to feed it. It's also like brushing your teeth: you can spend pennies/day, every day, or not do it for awhile and spend thousands of dollars fixing things.

As for basic equipment:

• A pool pole that you attach everything to.
  
  
• A pool net that attaches to the pole for fishing out stuff (leaves, acorns, things like that -- note this net has an angled/beveled bottom so you can 'scrape' it along the bottom of the pool to lift leaves and stuff off and into the netting)
  
  
• A vacuum head that you attach to the pole, and attach a vacuum hose to, to suck out stuff that you can't get with the net.
  
  
• A vacuum hose that attaches to the vacuum head on one end, and likely to your skimmer on the other end. This uses the suction produced by your pool pump to suck things out of your pool.
  
  
• A pool brush -- I use the "wall whale" model but any of them will work fine. You use this to brush the walls and side of your pool to help keep them clean. If your pool ever goes green, you'll have algae on your walls and bottom and you use this to brush that off the walls and into the water so the chlorine can help kill the algae.
  
  For a testing kit, I highly recommend you avoid testing strips, and splurge a bit for the TF-100 test kit with the SpeedStir, and the XL option. It's expensive, and worth every penny. If you're going to be closing this pool soon for the winter, I'd wait to buy the testing kit in the spring so your testing reagents are as fresh as possible when you open the pool.
  
  If you go the TroubleFreePool route, you'll be a large purchaser of bleach. I buy it about 15-gallons at a time from Wal-Mart -- just plain, unscented bleach. Anything else adds unneeded and unnecessary chemicals to your pool. Pay attention to the date code on the jug ("19250" means it was manufactured in 2019 on the 250th day of the year, newer is better since chlorine degrades over time), and the percentage of chlorine in the bleach -- most generic laundry bleach is 6%, the extra cheap stuff (which you don't want) doesn't even show the percentage so don't buy it! "Pool chlorinating liquid" from Wal-Mart is 10% bleach, and some pool stores sell 12.5% bleach.
  
  My 20k-gallon pool usually takes about a half-gallon/day of regular 6% bleach to keep the chlorine levels stable (sometimes added every day, sometimes added every 2-3 days). Other than initial setup in the spring when I add about $15 worth of chlorine stabilizer, and the occasional small dose of muriatic acid to keep the pH down, I rarely have to add anything else. Maybe a little baking soda when I first open in the spring, but nothing crazy. 99% of the "chemicals" I put in my pool is just plain bleach, and my water stays crystal clear and all chemical levels within range, all the time.

As a long time broadcast engineer and amateur radio operator, working this kind of project is fun for me, so I enjoy helping any way I can.

Let's start with some assumptions:

• You want to hear what you would if you were swimming at the location of the microphone (no ultrasonics or infrasonics).
  
• The volume of the sound would be somewhere between a human whisper (or dolphin mumble) and a shout.
  
• Only the microphone (hydrophone) would need to be submerged; there would be dry, above-water space for equipment that could be kept dry and relatively temperate (Above 32º below 100º F).
  
• There would be a way to gain stable, above-water height for an antenna that needs to maintain its orientation in inclement weather.
  
• The climate is such that at least some direct sunlight would be expected on most days (for solar power).
  
• Initially use a direct radio link with a service distance is no farther than the radio horizon, a little farther than the optical horizon, depending on antenna heights at both ends of the signal path (maximum practical range about 15 miles).
  
• A mast- or tower-mounted receiving antenna with line-of-sight to the transmitter is possible.
  
• You would use readily available commercial hardware.
  
  With these as a starting point, the hydrophone from this system could be connected to a commercial VHF wireless microphone transmitter like this. With some small modifications, these low-power units could be solar powered. Transmitting and power supply equipment (including batteries) could be mounted in a sealed enclosure like one of these.
  
  To extend the range, the wireless transmitter could connect to commercial TV antennas to provide a link of 500 ft. or more. The receiver could be connected to almost any audio system for listening or to the audio input of a laptop computer for recording. This setup would be inexpensive and "real-time" with microseconds of delay between an actual sound and when it was heard.
  
  A second level might be a digital setup based on a computer and streaming transmission between the remote audio source and a receive point using IP. This would be more expensive but would have a number of advantages, including the ability to record the audio at the hydrophone site for later recovery. There are a wide variety of commercial IP radio links available for short-range (up to the radio horizon) transmission to connect to a LAN and/or the public internet. It's also possible to use satellite connectivity such as Hughesnet, for nearly unlimited coverage.
  
  A power system like this could power almost any setup you might want to use. A much smaller system could power a low-power direct link.
  
  Hope this gives you some ideas on how to start.
  
  I'm insanely curious about this, so please if you have questions, please ask.
  
  Larry
  
  
  
  
  

Tbh at my pool at the Y we run our chlorine mostly between 3-5. As said previously, higher bather load (more swimmers) usually means 5-10ppm. They meant chlorine at 1.5, a 1.5 pH would be absolutely incredible and dangerous. I consider 1.5 to be low, but we would not close our pool over it, just add more. 1 is closing.

You can get one of these testers at any pool store or Walmart for pretty cheap peace of mind. They have instructions inside that are very easy to follow. I'd be slightly offended if you tested my pool, but I also check the chemicals hourly and I'd know what they are if you asked me, so I doubt your lifeguards will say anything. Clearly they don't keep good records. You should complain about that. Not trying to make you paranoid, but the ones who don't check chemicals are not necessarily the best lifeguards either.

If it's cloudy, good call not to swim. If it smells strongly or makes your eyes water from deck, don't swim. I'll add that if you do get a tester and the pH is not between 7.2-7.8, then don't swim.


Can I ask what the hours of your pool are? IMO 3 times a day is not enough if it's open relatively 24/7.

Edit: You can totally buy strips. Never used them before, but they are also probably at any pool store or walmart. I would probably be amused if you did this at my pool. It's probably a lot subtler than the dropper-testers.

Edit 2: I feel like I should add that I would let you test my pool if you wanted to, even if it would hurt my feelings. I feel like up top there I insinuated that it wouldn't be okay, but it would be fine. I have nothing to hide.

I just came across this research on seawater greenhouses for a global water class.

My feeling is that it would be easier to focus on plants and animals that are native to that ecosystem. Look into halophytes. Other good crops could be kangkong or New Zealand spinach. Here is some research that was done on both of those crops under various saline concentrations. You will want to get an idea of the salt concentration you are dealing with. Might want to search for that info or order a salt test kit.

I would seriously reflect on non-traditional crops since the wont tolerate much imperfection in their environment. I feel that organisms that live in these saline environments have developed very good cellular machinery to regulate their homeostasis and should be looked at. Ions build up to toxic levels in many normal crops even at low concentrations of salts. Tossing in crops that are not adapted means that you will have to provide all of that energy to change their local environment. It could be done at a cost but its not really a permaculture way of doing it. It's easier to change the crops.

The idea is good though. Kristopher Hite posted an article on Scientific American on using plants to capture runoff nitrates from the Mississippi River. It would be useful if we could create something like a floating farm. Bill Mollison used to talk about how our city's are designs to dump nutrients out to sea, and future generations are going to have go out and bring it back.

It's just as possible that your tap water has too many minerals. My tap water supply can sometimes have 6-9 times the optimal level. Short of having a full water test done, you can buy a cheap TDS meter off amazon (we use these) but I'm sure any of them are fine. You're looking for an target of about 150ppm but I've had great cups from 100-350ish. You might find it might be a good idea to mix some distilled and tap, preferably filtered if your water has any distinct taste to it.

For no cost (aside from coffee and water) you could just try a 10%tap 90%distilled batch, a 50/50 batch, and a 100% tap batch and just make some adjustments from whichever you like the most.

I honestly don't know where I read every 7 days but it seemed to make sense, re-fresh the water at least once a week. Are you saying it should be changed more often or less often?

I bought a PPM meter, this one, 515 reviews and still 4 1/2 stars. Hopefully it works, I've had no luck in the past with digital PH meters and just use the chemical test kit from General Hydroponics.

After reading everyones comments I'm definitely gonna set up a PH adjusted plain water reservoir. However I grow different strains at the same time (different finish dates, some like more or less nutes than others) so I can't use one general reservoir, which is why I decided upon DWC instead of other hydro options in the first place.

Do the nutrient bottles tell you what the desired PPM is? What happens if you don't have a filtration system and your starting out at about 300 ppm from my regular well water.

I add 3 tablespoons per gallon or 12ml/liter of FloraGro into my water for an aggressive vegetative growth period. This is basically all of the time, because of what I'm growing - herbs and lettuce that is constantly harvesting and never flowering.


In the guide and video I made, I bought soil starts that were a bit beyond seedlings to speed up the process, but I would recommend just starting with seed in the system so you avoid any dirt and bacteria that the soil might bring in. I get the brown jelly going on every now and then, and I think it's one of these:

• Water too hot
  
• Too much light entering reservoir
  
• Debris from the dirt transplant
  
  As for changing the nutrients, I do a recirculating system where I only replace the water that gets used by the plants. So I fill it up once to start and then add water as necessary. I keep a 5 gallon barrel of water that is perfectly pH'd with nutrients added to make it a LOT easier.
  
  To check the amount of nutrients you have going on you can spend 15 bucks and get this. It will let you know the parts per million of nutrient in your solution.
  
  
  As for pH, it really doesn't fluctuate very much. I check it every now and then but as long as you pH correctly at the start, add the proper amount of nutrients to the water and refill as necessary then you are balancing pretty damn well.
  
  
  I'm a bit confused on the science question, could you let me know what you mean by that?
  
  
  

It is possible that you could have pretty decent tap water. Your best bet would be to get a TDS meter to determine the amount of total dissolved solids. Preferably you would want less than 5ppm.

People have successfully kept saltwater aquariums without RO/DI, but using RO/DI water limits the chance of any nuisance algae and poor water quality as some tap water already has ammonia/nitrite/nitrate in it. I would recommend using RO/DI water, but if you don't want to have to buy a unit - you could always buy RO/DI water from your local fish store. It's usually ~$1 per gallon. I would advise against any prepackaged "Natural Sea Water" though... which is like $15 for 4 gallons, so you'll know the difference.

Water Tech Pool Blaster Catfish Li Pool and Spa Cleaner https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002GT91SK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_.AdozbC1MJ81C

This thing is awesome. It ll get sand off the bottom of my Intex pool. My pool is 18ft around and it did the whole thing in a few minutes. Way better than the one you have to hook to a garden hose or the intex pool pump. Those didn't work and had a bunch of tubes attached. This is self contained and works great.

Yeah I didn't go into it expecting much (an ounce or two) so we'll see what it comes out too, i'll be happy to get that.

Here are the links for the meters I get. I tested the ph meter and compared it to drops and it is spot on. Not sure about the ppm one but it got good reviews.

PPM Meter

PH Meter

Thanks for checking out my grow!

Just make sure you get the one with the DI. The replacement cartridges are pretty reasonable as well, and my lps sells them as well as amazon. I have heard nothing bad about that system. My TDS from the tap is 144, and is zero after that system.

Here is the TDS monitor for cheap:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001EHAZGW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

And a float valve if you need one:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0113UJOOS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Yeah def. grab one of these off amazon they are super cheap and usefull. https://www.amazon.com/HM-Digital-TDS-EZ-Measurement-Resolution/dp/B002C0A7ZY

Works great.

Alright taking into consideration the 12 plant limit here, my previous setup was too big for so few plants. So with some downsizing hopefully saves even more!

Tent - GROWNEER 48"x36"x72" Lodge Propagation Tent

Lights - HLG65 lm301b and red 660nm hydroponic grow light 4000K x 2

Kingbrite 240W samsung lm301h 288v3 quantum board X1

Fan - AC Infinity CLOUDLINE S4, Quiet 4” Inline Duct Fan with Speed Controller

PH Meter - Wellcows Digital PH Meter

PPM Meter - HM Digital TDS-EZ Water Quality TDS Tester

Carbon Filter - VIVOSUN 4 Inch Air Carbon Filter

Ducting - VIVOSUN 2-PACK 4 Inch 8 Feet Non-Insulated Flex Air Aluminum Ducting

Nutrients - MEGA Crop (2500g)

Botanicare CAL-MAG Plus Plant Supplement 2-0-0 Formula, 1 Quart

PH Control - General Hydroponics pH Control Kit

Soil - PREMIER HORTICULTURE 20380RG PRO-Mix HP High Porosity Grower Mix

Pots - Gardzen 10-Pack 1 Gallon Grow Bags x 2

Cloning Machine - CLONE KING 25

Total - 880.62 (includes shipping)

So with this setup ill keep 1 or 2 mother plants and then run the rest in SoG in 1 gallon pots. Using the 2 4000k lights for the mother plant and the cloning station and the 240w for the SoG area of the tent. Its a small setup but I think it'll work. Any idea what kinds of yeilds this could achieve? Any further input would be greatly appreciated.

I bought a house with a 20x40 vinyl inground last year, and have learned the troublefreepools method. I use store brand concentrated bleach, 8.25%, and their pool calculator to help determine how much to use.


https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00ESQMA8M/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1495056986&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=pool+sweepers+for+in+ground+pools&dpPl=1&dpID=41IJ2WmA9uL&ref=plSrch

And I love this little guy, he's a huge help for a very minimal investment. I named mine "Munchie."

I would be more concerned about making sure its cleaned out. There is this cleaner you can get that will clear out the jets and remove grime from the piping. https://www.amazon.com/Ahh-Some-Cleaner-Clearer-Efficiently-Clarifier/dp/B0030MYGXW/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?crid=1E6AKXTRWDK91&keywords=hot+tub+cleaner+for+the+jets+and+the+tubes&qid=1568212796&s=gateway&sprefix=hot+tub+cleaner%2Caps%2C176&sr=8-2-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUFMUlA2OVlOUjRVR1AmZW5jcnlwdGVkSWQ9QTA2NjI0NzExTU1INjZBVjJFMUw0JmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTAzNjQ1MTIxWDJRQkxaVjI5QkM5JndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfYXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ== . I moved into my place 2 years ago and it came with a hot tub from the 90's. After using the cleaner, there was a ton of nasty buildup in the pipes. Once that's done, drain it and give it a good scrub down. Then change the filter.

Download the manual for your hot tub and read it to make sure you are performing proper weekly maintenance and using the correct chemicals. For example, some tubs take bromine tablets, some don't. There may also be some other cool features that you might not know about.

Get some hot tub test strips https://www.amazon.com/Poolmaster-22211-Swimming-Chemistry-Strips/dp/B001E6E9PG/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=hot+tub+test+strips&qid=1568212610&s=gateway&sr=8-3

Use them once or twice a week depending on hot tub usage. Then add any chemicals as needed. Make sure you fill up your hot tub once a week at least to make sure your jets are covered.

I'm not going to Coachella this year, and I already have one of these, so no need to send me one, but I highly recommend this personal mister. I can't even begin to tell you how downright fucking delightful this thing is to have when you're just sitting around being hot. It lasts a long time and you can just fill it up every time you're at the water station.

Equipment List
____

• Lighting: AquaIllumination Prime set to 14k
  
  
• Lighting Mount: AquaIllumination Prime Tank Mount
  
  
• Filtration: Innovative Marine Media Basket
  
  
• Filtration Media: Chemi Pure Blue
  
  
• Filtration Media: Filter Floss
  
  
• Return Pump: Upgraded to Maxi Jet 900
  
  
• Flow: Only the Spin Stream for now
  
  
• Heater: Cobalt Neo-Therm 50 Watt
  
  
• Thermometer: HDE Digital
  
  
• Auto Top Off: Tunze Nano Osmolator
  
  
• Algae Scrubber: Two Little Fishies Nanomag
  
  
• RO DI Unit: Express Water 100 Gallon Per Day 6 Stage
  
  
• In Line TDS Meter: HM Digital
  
  
• Handheld TDS and PH Meter
  
  
• Aquarium Salt: Red Sea Coral Pro
  
  Chemicals and Food
  ____
  
• Kent Nano Reef A & B
  
  
• Brightwell Aquatics Zooplankton
  
  
• Two Little Fishies ReVive Coral Cleaner
  
  
• New Life Spectrum 1mm sinking pellet
  
  
• I also feed frozen mysis occassionally, and I have a .5mm Hatchery pellet for Walter from Sustainable Aquatics.
  
  OnePlus 2 Manual Camera Settings
  
  
• Focus: Auto
  
  
• Aperture: 1/20
  
  
• White Balance: Cloudy (Very Bottom Option)
  
  
• ISO: 100
  
  For those interested my light is an AI Prime LED set to the 14k spectrum.

I run http://www.mistymate.com/misty-3.html for my local shows- you can unscrew the mouthpiece off a camelbak then lean forward to refill it too, which is super convenient.

Planning on picking up one of the bigger units like https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005727E2I/ref=pd_aw_sim_86_2?ie=UTF8&dpID=41z3du8U9CL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL200_SR200%2C200_&refRID=BJ6JR7GX8A6RRXJ3DKYN for Vegas though, more reservoir means less refilling and more sharing. Have to get backup spray nozzles for this type though- had one where the nozzle fell off and was lost forever at Beyond Wonderland, Bay Area.

Also have a camelbak attachment that may or may not work, ran into a guy with one at a show last year. (http://www.amazon.com/HYDRATION-adjustable-efficiently-streaming-Mr/dp/B00O4P214K)

Taking no chances this year.

You'll need one of these: https://www.amazon.com/TAYLOR-TECHNOLOGIES-INC-K-1766-CHLORIDE/dp/B001DO35EU/ref=sr_1_2?s=lawn-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1520998347&sr=1-2&keywords=salt+test+kit

Also, any test kit that includes a CYA test should be good. The K2006 is a pretty standard kit that test all aspects of water chemistry (except for salt concentration) If you have a salt generator, you'll probably need to manually boost your CYA levels that would normally come from chlorine.

https://www.troublefreepool.com/content/138-water-balance-for-swg-saltwater-chlorine-generator

https://www.troublefreepool.com/content/127-salt-water-chlorine-generators-swg

When it was first introduced I wondered about the connected version. Couldn't see the difference between buttons on the brewer vs buttons on your phone. The fact that the price is lowered seems to substantiate my opinion. It's a "gee whiz look at what I can do" feature regardless of whether the feature makes any sense.

As far as water quality there's a difference between hardness (measured in grains) vs total dissolved solids per whatever(tds). There are kits to measure only hardness, but I think this device will tell you more about your water: https://www.amazon.com/HM-Digital-TDS-EZ-Measurement-Resolution/dp/B002C0A7ZY

The common wisdom seems to be not to use softened water as it will not extract the tastes from the coffee properly. Rather, filter out the tds.

I use a Zerofilter, and Brita filtered water to bring the tds up to 75-100 or so which is the level I think I saw Behmor recommend at one point somewhere.

You should consider buying a TDS meter like this one. It allows you to accurately keep track of the solution strength.

Don't worry about buying a more expensive one, you won't need much for a home project.

Still pretty readily available in the northeast for me, but you can get it cheap from Amazon from a number of vendors.

http://www.amazon.com/In-The-Swim-Chlorine-Shock/dp/B002WKM4A0/ref=pd_sim_sbs_lg_3

Is a good example. 6 lbs for 33 bucks plus shipping is essentially 60k gallons of water. You can probably find it in cheaper or smaller quantities, I just grabbed the first thing I saw.

Hey, I'm looking at amazing water test kits now -- what exactly should I be testing for? pH? something like this?

or this maybe?

No one has mentioned it so I will:

Get a Parts Per Million meter. It doesn't have to be a fancy one, and actually see what's going on. My water tastes and smells pretty bad, but is only around 170ppm total dissolved solids. If I simply let it sit in a jug overnight, it tastes way better because the chlorine evaporates.

Also, request an analysis from your local water company. In my state, they are required by law to send one annually. It's a list of every molecule in their sample, but with Flint demonstrating, the testers may "pre-flush" the pipes before taking a sample, so if you don't trust the municipality or private water works, you can get your own sample relatively cheap (Home Depot does them for free where I am).

All in all a reverse osmosis system, or even just a passive charcoal one, should help tons. The former can actually take out chemically bonded impurities, while the later removes suspended particulate.

I absolutely love my Kreepy Krauly Great White. It scrubs the algae spots and sucks up all of the oak leaves that fall in. Its also very simple and doesnt require electricity or anything. It even cleans the walls (I have a rounded edge).

Aside from a good filtering setup, a cheap TDS tester like http://www.amazon.com/HM-Digital-TDS-EZ-Measurement-Resolution/dp/B002C0A7ZY/ will tell you if there's any increase in stuff in your water. You can measure your baseline for a while and if there's ever a perceptible change, you can test again. It won't tell you definitively what's dissolved in the water, but it can help you check.

Grab a TDS meter and see what the water looks like. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002C0A7ZY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_hi.xDbFM7VJRA

RO/DI water is great to use!

I think you should be fine using the maxigrow and cal-mag for now. I would not recommend using the rockdust or azomite though. You should get all you need in the maxigrow for now.

As for the TDS tester, I use this one It is cheap and works fine. It converts the PPM to EC by dividing the reading by 500. For example... 750PPM is going to give you a 1.5 EC. Some TDS testers in other countries will use a different conversion rate to get you the correct EC. EC is universal.

So lets say your peppers need to be at a EC from 1.3 - 1.8 "depending on the size." With the TDS meter I sent a link to, you would want your water to be at 650 PPM to 900 PPM. If your tap water is coming out of the tap already with a bunch of minerals already in it like 300 PPM worth, then you want to add your cal-mag and Maxigro until you hit that 650 to 900 PPM range.

As for your pH, you want to keep it as close to 6 as possible for peppers.

I'm not really sure what scale tbh, here is a link to the pen I got on Amazon if that helps at all. It might appear a lot lighter than it actually is due to my light in the tent being so bright white. Here are some pics with the tent light off and my phone flash on. I'm not sure if that's the right shade of green or not. I just watered them again after reading some info online with recommendations on Coco watering. I adjusted it to have some calmag in it and increased the Flora Grow and lowered the Flora Micro. Had a ppm of about 580 this time. Hoping it will make them happier.

Like most super powers, you can buy it for under $20

https://www.amazon.com/HM-Digital-TDS-EZ-Measurement-Resolution/dp/B002C0A7ZY

*first result I got on amazon. I'm not sure how good it is.

A fan, and/or those pressurized misters. Either for personal use, or for spraying your yard with pesticides. Any friggin' thing to keep cool.

http://www.amazon.com/Pressurized-Plant-Water-Mister-Sprayer/dp/B003LE0SLS

http://www.amazon.com/Chapin-20000-1-Gallon-Garden-Sprayer/dp/B000E28UQU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1370770845&sr=8-1&keywords=pesticide+sprayer

http://www.amazon.com/MistyMate-20009-Deluxe-Personal-Mister/dp/B005727E2I/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1370771088&sr=8-1&keywords=misty+mate

Also, the EZ Up/canopy/shade is a no brainer. $50 at Academy Sports.

http://www.academy.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Product_10151_10051_247717_-1__?color=Orange&N=610345069&Ntt=ez+up&Ntk=All

This is the salt tester I use it works great and is very accurate: https://www.amazon.com/Hayward-GLX-SALTMETER-Digital-Handheld-Meter/dp/B005IVZKKQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1475185291&sr=8-1&keywords=hayward+salt+tester

If I had the time I would always use the test kit for Salt which you can find here: https://www.amazon.com/TAYLOR-TECHNOLOGIES-INC-K-1766-CHLORIDE/dp/B001DO35EU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1475185345&sr=8-1&keywords=salt+test+kit

Also, if you are using strips you might want to consider going towards an actual test kit that is reliable such as this: https://www.amazon.com/Taylor-Technologies-K-2005-Test-Complete/dp/B00HEAQO5O/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1475185320&sr=8-3&keywords=taylor+test+kit+salt

The cheapest option would be to purchase the test kit for salt and continue using the strips. I recommend no strips and using the salt test kit and a normal Taylor test kit.

the Bluelabs gear is nice if you have the money.

I bought a simple $15 PH600 on amazon

http://www.amazon.com/Milwaukee-Instruments-PH600AQ-Tester-Calibration/dp/B005H78ZI0/ref=sr_1_1?s=lawn-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1334068927&sr=1-1

and just as cheap a TDS meter

http://www.amazon.com/HM-Digital-TDS-EZ-Tester-Purity/dp/B002C0A7ZY/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1334068952&sr=8-2

both work incredibly well

Here. It is by no means a "lab grade" device but gives great reference readings when analyzing how much your plant is eating (for my DWC setup anyways). I've never grown in soil but see people run a sort of "reference flush" to compare their previous runoff from the last time they watered to judge if their plants are consuming more nutes or more water so they can adjust their amendments accordingly. I do the same sort of thing on my hempy buckets but it is just so much easier since my medium is inert.

Thank you.

I was considering these:

• XtremepowerUS Suction Cleaner Kreepy Krauly
  https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ESQMA8M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_yaIZCbCGK6VWK
  
  
• INTEY Suction Cleaner Kreepy Krauly
  https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07P6JJQBM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_jbIZCbFJHS2QS
  
  
• Zodiac Baracuda MX6 Suction Vacuum
  https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IG9LZ4C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_SaIZCbV8MKYDS
  
  
• Hayward Poolvergnuegen Suction Vacuum
  https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004KSRJXO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_5aIZCbVKNHCPE
  
  How would you compare the Suction Vacuum (w/wheels) vs Kreepy Krauly?
  The ones that you recommended are priced similar to vacuums.

I just purchased a water testing kit https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06VVQ7Y2Q/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


I will post back here once I test it. Thank you for all of your help.

Id rather use hard water than soft water. Too much salt buildup kills plants.

Take a sample to your local fish store if possible (Or purchase a PPM/PH meter) to find out your PPM and PH.

Anything above 300ppm gets a little sketchy and you will want an RO system.

PH can be altered but anything over a PH of 9 you will be using a ton of PH down.

If your PH and PPM are both below what I stated above I would still recommend something like a Small Boy filter for Chlorine/Chloramine and undissolved particles.

Water tester and filter system. Best items I bought that year.

https://www.amazon.com/HM-Digital-TDS-EZ-Measurement-Resolution/dp/B002C0A7ZY/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1504296326&sr=8-3&keywords=water+tester

https://www.amazon.com/APEC-5-Stage-Reverse-Drinking-Water/dp/B00I0ZGOZM/ref=pd_sim_60_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=J4HVJXXMCEZP1BPW9F5D

My take on this:

Make a choice: either continue as you do it now (salt hard water, attempt to use water softener system, without reading what it does to the water and tank inhabitants), or monitor results of each your action, by testing (GH, KH, pH, TDS) and do quick search for anything you would like to implement. Like water softener system and aquarium, what to do for reducing GH in aquarium water, and do not do that without testing results. I'm not attempting to lecture in any way, if it seems so, my apologies, was not intended to. Only this seems to me to be the main source of a problem.

Not the best, but good enough flow chart of connections between water parameters and what to change them, is here. pH and alkalinity are connected.

To know them, you will need GH/KH test kit, pH test kit, and, if you feel generous ($25), TDS meter and calibrating solution from the same seller, 342 ppm TDS. Why know TDS is here, scroll down to kidneys.

Each kind of aquatic animals has own limit of tolerances, if you place soft water tetra in Tanganyika water, it wouldn't be happy, I would expect it to die. See what animals you have and what are their requirements (fast online search for a name and GH, TDS).

Know your tap water, if you are using it. Test the same: GH, KH, pH, TDS, and nitrates.

Ask here, in separate thread or in quick questions thread, if this water could be used for your fish without altering it. If yes, you are good, use it without changing anything.

If not, now you have to figure out what would you do: changing your tap water or create artificial water, using RO water and remineralizer, creating water, suitable for your fish.

For USA, reverse osmosis system with carbon block for chloramines could be as low as $133 at Home Depot, don't know its gpd. There is cheaper RO Buddie, read from their manufacturer about chloramines, compare the size and cost of cartridges and make informed choice.

If use RO water, it could be used for diluting too hard tap water or for mixing it with remineralizer.

Mixing RO with remineralizer:

• For neutral to moderately hard water fish, Salty Shrimp GH/KH+, Aquarium Mineral or Shrimp Mineral, or any other GH/KH+.
  
  
• For African cichlids, another kind, made for them. I know Seachem makes something for them, but not details.
  
  
• For soft water fish, ask. My way will be too expensive for a 50-100 gal tank: using active substrate, designed to keep certain pH stable. UpAqua Shrimp Sand for pH 6.5, ADA Amazonia for pH 6, you don't need lower. Remineralizer for it should be GH+ (not GH/KH+), the same Salty Shrimp or any other brand.
  
  If you will need diluting hard water, control result by testing, and test ratio first in a small container (jar, glass).
  
  Any changes in the tank should be slow, to avoid shocking fish. Powders should never be added to the tank, see manufacturer's directions.
  
  Some are using Seachem Neutral Regulator to recrease water hardness by precipitating Ca and Mg, but you have to monitor results by testing, or you can overdose and kill animals this way. Not familiar with it, read FAQ there and Seachem Support forums for it. No guessing or assumptions, know what you are doing, after running trial in a separate vessel.
  
  It took some time for me to come to this too, you are not alone in this.

Well those roots look healthy to me. Just try the flushing. Here is a TDS I use for $16. Even if you do not go for the calibration solution gotta have it if you want to grow the dro.

After you transplant leave your light off for 24 hours to help with the shock. Sometimes hydro shops have used bulbs they will sell for cheap, depending on your ballast your should be able to run a 250 watt bulb if that's all you can find and afford. If the plants aren't in cubes I suggest letting the roots stay in the small clump of soil around them. You could wash the roots off but it will stress them more and when exposing them to lights you risk killing the roots. After you transplant fill right up to the bottom of the leaves that are growing. If you don't have a ph meter I suggest something like this. http://www.amazon.com/HM-Digital-TDS-EZ-Measurement-Resolution/dp/B002C0A7ZY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1396007211&sr=8-1&keywords=ph+meter Its fairly inexpensive and very easy to use. If all you have is less than $30 to spend I suggest the meter over a mh bulb and pick up a thermometer. Also since the plants will be in shock once you transplant them foiler feed with water (spray down the tops and bottoms of the leaves with clean soft water)

I'd make a tea from the soil your not using. Its not going to be the best but will give you some nutes if you can't afford to pick up bottles.

To be fair, tap water commonly has some ions in it - some salt, some rust. Which makes it conductive. Depending on a lake it can be less conductive than tap water. But that "depending" is pretty much the key. Unless you bring solid particle tester with you everywhere - you can't be sure.

Honestly, you can do much better for your money... There are kits in the Starter Shopping Lists to the right on the sidebar.

I was wondering the other day what exactly I would need for a turn-key grow setup, and put the following together. Mind you, this is not TOP of the line shit, but it will absolutely get you into the hobby!

600W Tube / Timer / MH & HPS Bulbs / Hangars / Ballast - $157.50

6 Inch Carbon Filter / 440CFM Fan - $149.75

25 Ft. 6 Inch Ducting - $19.10

48 x 48 x 78 Tent - $139.99

FFOF - $18.99

General Hydroponics Go Box Starter Kit - $35.95

CALIBER IV DIGITAL HYGROMETER - $19.23

Smart Pot Container - Pack of Five - $20.65

Micro-Tip Pruning Snip - $10.19

Light Duty Soft Wire Tie - $7.84

PH & Temperature Meter - $79.95

Water Quality TDS Tester - $15.59

LED Handheld Microscope - $16.81

Total just under 700$ and you are getting a LOT more for your money.

Don't blindly take that list, shop around, deal hunt, and do the research! There are many hidden costs associated with growing ><

I run a DWC and use this for a PPM meter. Does the job. Feel free to PM me if you have any questions or want to chat.

They can also be referred to as total dissolved solids or TDS. You can purchase a TDS/TSS meter to measure that, but you should do some research first to understand what you're measuring and what your TDS is in your water source.

If you want shrimp for algae control, look at amano shrimp, which are usually large enough to fend for themselves when housed with a betta. In a 5 gal, one would certainly do the trick.

I have this model http://www.amazon.com/Pentair-GW9500-Automatic-Cleaner-In-Ground/dp/B002G9U17U Several friends of mine have had this model for 7-8 years. It is simple and cheap to repair also.

I am using this device:
http://www.amazon.com/HM-Digital-TDS-EZ-Measurement-Resolution/dp/B002C0A7ZY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1452279486&sr=8-1&keywords=water+quality+tester

I used this device on :

1. Water tap : 50 PPT
   
   
2. Filtered water gallons that I filled in one of these machines in safeways : 7 PPT
   
   
3. Brita water filter: 80 PPT
   
   
   To answer your question:
   
   
4. The filter is 1 week old. ( I did follow the steps of empying 3 full loads before start using it).
   
   
5. ?
   
   
6. Yes, that is possible
   

I use a large Sear's wet dry because I had it already. It has a hose discharge so I don't have to empty it manually. I just vacuum up the bottom with long hose extensions. When the vacuum is full, I discharge the dirty pond water to my plants and bushes.

There are custom pond vacuums like this [OASE] (https://www.amazon.com/OASE-PondoVac-Classic-Vacuum-Cleaner/dp/B004HIHUTA) which are not expensive and works pretty much the same.

But you can build your own vacuum that works on the same theory as a fish tank one. You build it from PVC pipes and it uses suction from your garden hose to draw out the water. Ask on this [forum] (http://www.gardenpondforum.com). I either saw it there or someone there invented it.

>PPM of what? Lead, Arsenic, Copper, Chlorine, Minerals, Toluene, Vinyl Chloride... There's a lot of things with some ppm in your water, but I'm not directly aware of anything that is the highest in the nation. Where are you getting that information?

I'm honestly not sure what it is in it, but I know the levels are high as hell and I'm not OK with that, which is why I reverse osmosis filter my drinking water. Here is what I do know. I bought a PPM pen off Amazon ( https://www.amazon.com/HM-Digital-TDS-EZ-Measurement-Resolution/dp/B002C0A7ZY) and I test my drinking water. I'll do my own testing when the testers are so readily available and cheap. Mine will usually test between 300-350 PPM. If you don't believe me, buy one yourself and come over here to Plano and test it yourself.

Here is a map of water hardness in the US:

https://www.h2odistributors.com/pages/info/hard-water-map.asp

According to this map I should be seeing 120-180 PPM, but mine is twice that. According to Water Quality Association Classification that is Holy fuck your water is beyond hard classification, which means it's some of the highest in the nation, according to that. I've also did some digging and asking in other forums over the years on this and I even take my pen with me on business trips for my own personal amusement and yeah, my own testing pretty much tells me we're in company with the highest tested levels in the nation. Your own quotes above say as much, with the one NTMWD city you quoted, Richardson, being 620 ppm.

Just because WHO says it's ok to drink a 900 ppm puddle of water in Africa doesn't mean that is what I should expect from my US tap water for what I pay for it.

https://www.amazon.com/TAYLOR-TECHNOLOGIES-INC-K-1766-CHLORIDE/dp/B001DO35EU/ref=pd_bxgy_86_img_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B001DO35EU&pd_rd_r=9E1HJ22ZFG1HCRKJCBHH&pd_rd_w=or2a0&pd_rd_wg=4c4Ws&psc=1&refRID=9E1HJ22ZFG1HCRKJCBHH This test kit will do the trick. Easy to use and accurate.

I have a Misty Mate and a Frogg Toggs Towel. I can't handle Bonnaroo heat so I arm myself to the teeth with ways to cool down.

I got the pH meter above, and this TDS meter, whilst my cabinet is monitored inside and at exhaust exit with this temp/humidity gauge with min/max for all fields.

Combined price is < $60.

Seems to work just fine.

But I do like the gizmo you linked to. Maybe for a hydro setup?

It measures the total dissolved solids in the water, which for the most part is what matters, buy one, stick it in the water. If it reads under 50ppm it's fine. If it's over it's no good.
Linky

You will want this. Tap water you say? That is the likely culprit. So you will need this, and this. After this your troubles should be gone.

These are what I use. They work just fine.

pH:

http://www.amazon.com/Milwaukee-Instruments-pH600AQ-Tester-Calibration/dp/B005H78ZI0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1348464821&sr=8-1&keywords=milwaukee+ph+test


TDS/EC:

http://www.amazon.com/HM-Digital-TDS-EZ-Auto-off-Function/dp/B002C0A7ZY/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1348464821&sr=8-6&keywords=milwaukee+ph+test

I have this one, works well for me and apparnetly measures 0-9990 ppm.

Looks a lot like ours. (Your "holding tank" is a mate to ours -- I assume it's a settling tank; can't think of any other real function for it).

Here's what I use for the pH adjustment: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002WKM4A0/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Same sized tank, and I use 2 teaspoons for each fill, though your mileage may vary, depending on your starting pH and pump I suppose. I think each teaspoon makes the equivalent of a gallon of bleach (I need to find a source for that, but that's what's in my head).

HM Digital (brand) TDS meter with 342 ppm calibration solution for it. On the back it has to have "Calibrate with NaCl" screw. This one was available locally.

Water Tech Pool Blaster Catfish Li Pool & Spa Cleaner https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002GT91SK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_jHXyDbHKNAF2C

Tds tester from amazon

HM Digital TDS-EZ Water Quality TDS Tester, 0-9990 ppm Measurement Range , 1 ppm Resolution, +/- 3% Readout Accuracy https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002C0A7ZY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_YGc-ybYV4Q0QV

El cheapo: http://www.amazon.com/HM-Digital-TDS-EZ-Measurement-Resolution/dp/B002C0A7ZY

These cheap ones don't adjust to temperature, so you'll have to consider that if you're reporting your values for some kind of project. They calibrate it at 25 degrees C, so any temp lower than that is going to over-estimate your TDS.

pH is as simple as getting a test kit at a pet store.

http://www.amazon.com/HM-Digital-TDS-EZ-Measurement-Resolution/dp/B002C0A7ZY

I edited it in. This one.

I would think it would give you a basic idea of quality.

$15.37 HM Digital TDS-EZ Water Quality TDS Tester, 0-9990 ppm Measurement Range , 1 ppm Resolution, +/- 3% Readout Accuracy

https://www.amazon.com/HM-Digital-TDS-EZ-Measurement-Resolution/dp/B002C0A7ZY/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1503463109&sr=8-3&keywords=water+testing+meter

>Where would one get such a meter?

This is the one I bought.
HM Digital TDS-EZ Water Quality TDS Tester, 0-9990 ppm Measurement Range , 1 ppm Resolution, +/- 3% Readout Accuracy https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002C0A7ZY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_dqfrzbBA5R7QJ

Invest in some calcium hypochlorite. One pound purifies 10,000 gallons.

Would this work out?
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B002C0A7ZY/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1414341438&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40

Or this one?
http://mobile.walmart.com/ip/19582190?wmlspartner=wlpa&adid=22222222228015536541&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=m&wl3=40872537152&wl4=&wl5=pla&wl6=78764899592&veh=sem

You could've just gotten this, it's a digital water quality tester:
https://smile.amazon.com/HM-Digital-TDS-EZ-Measurement-Resolution/dp/B002C0A7ZY/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1493673452&sr=8-8&keywords=water+testing+kit

I have the same one. TDS meter reads in single digits.

Maybe someone should buy MIL some of these as a late Mother's Day present.

Here is the mobile version of your link

I took this last year. I took it out of the case and put it in a backpack with my camelbak. Didn't have to pump it very often and the tank lasted at least as long as my water supply did.

Cheap TDS (total dissolved solids) testing kit:

https://www.amazon.com/HM-Digital-TDS-EZ-Measurement-Resolution/dp/B002C0A7ZY

Or any meter that measures EC/TDS.

I tested the distilled i was using and it read less than 5. Then my tap was 400, my shrimp tnak was 385 and my 20 gallon fish tank was at 550. So i think it was reading right. I ordered this one. http://www.amazon.com/HM-Digital-TDS-EZ-Measurement-Resolution/dp/B002C0A7ZY?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00
Im not sure there is a way to change it and i think it only measures PPM