(Part 2) Reddit mentions: The best pools, hot tubs & supplies

Yeah, I agree. Ceradyn is a great option, thanks for bringing it up. For reference, they are available on Amazon:

http://www.amazon.com/Katadyn-Drip-Ceradyn-Water-Filter/dp/B0007U010W/

Actually the Gravidyn is a tiny bit cheaper - this is the one I have:

http://www.amazon.com/Katadyn-Drip-Gravidyn-Water-Filter/dp/B0007U011G/

For anyone who's wondering, yes, the two systems are identical except for the filters that come with. You can put Ceradyn filters in the Gravidyn setup, and vice versa.

The filters are quite delicate, though, and prone to cracking and breakage. You need to inspect them carefully for hairline fractures when you get them. For example, one of the ones in my Gravidyn was broken on arrival. I convinced Amazon to send me a spare one (rather than having to send the whole system back). Also, when I was moving stuff around in one of my storage closets in the garage, I accidentally dropped one of the spare Gravidyn filters on the concrete floor. It was inside its protective cardboard box, but it still broke. I was heartbroken - such a waste of money from a moment's clumsiness. Make sure to treat these things with kid gloves!

For completeness, here are the spare filters - Gravidyn:

http://www.amazon.com/Katadyn-20720-Gravidyn-Replacement-Element/dp/B0007U011Q/

And Ceradyn:

http://www.amazon.com/Katadyn-Ceradyn-Replacement-Filter-Element/dp/B0007U0116/

Hope it's ok posting links like this... I have no stake, not connected with the company at all etc.

The Monolithic filters are also interesting, and they claim to remove arsenic and lead as well. I would be concerned with arsenic in the surface water around here, though it might only be something that is in ground water (i.e. from wells etc). Anyway, these are very simple and cheap too, you can make a bucket filter around one of these little things and have a basic system. I don't know how much formal testing they have had, but they seem to be used a lot in 3rd world countries.

http://www.monolithic.org/water-filters

http://www.monolithicmarketplace.com/collections/frontpage/products/just-water-ceramic-drip-filter

As I said earlier, if I ever have to use the creek water, then I intend for the Monolithic to be the first stage, then treat with calcium hypochlorite (pool shock - 78% TurboShock from Poolife is the best I've found), then treat again with the Katadyn to remove the chlorine and just do another round of filtering in general. I figure I should be covering my bases with this.

http://www.amazon.com/POOLIFE-Poolife-TurboShock-1-lb/dp/B0017SSFU6

And also in case anybody's interested: To treat water with calcium hypochlorite, first make a bleach solution (NOT FOR DRINKING!) by adding a heaped teaspoon to 2 gallons of water. Then you can treat drinking water with this by using 1:100 ratio (i.e. for every 1 part bleach solution, 100 parts water). This should make it obvious that the calcium hypochlorite is pretty concentrated stuff - you shouldn't be trying to treat drinking water directly. First make the solution, then use that to treat the water. For reference, the 1:100 ratio translates into roughly 2.5-3 tablespoons of solution per gallon of drinking water, or 3/4-1 cup to every 5 gallons of water (if you're treating by the bucket). I give a range since it might be easier to measure 3 tablespoons and 1 cup rather than fractions like 2.5 and 3/4, and I think it's probably true that a little over treatment won't do any harm, especially if you are filtering it out anyway. Let the water stand for at least half an hour when treating, the longer the better. Contact time is important for killing the viruses etc.

Also, the pool shock is hard to store safely, since it produces chlorine. Anything metal will get corroded over time. The best method I have found is to use the mason jars with the metal canning lids (the ones that come in two parts). The 1 lb packs of TurboShock fit nicely in a 1/2 gallon jar. I know the lid is metal, but it has a plastic coating on the inside, and those lids are the best sealing I have found. I can put three jars inside a plastic 5 gallon bucket that has been sealed with a Gamma spintop lid. Then I can check on them every few months, and I'll know immediately if the jars have been leaking inside the bucket, because you'll be hit with the chlorine as soon as you open the bucket. I figure if the metal lids start rusting, then I'll just see what their safe lifetime is, and treat them as consumable items. A box of lids is only a few bucks, so replacing them every six months or year or whatever is no big deal. I also wrap the jars inside the bucket in bubble wrap, just so they won't break against each other if things are thrown around during an earthquake. With 3 lbs of the calcium hypochlorite, I'm ready to disinfect a LOT of pond water! Maybe also useful as bartering material in the event of a long term service outage, you never know.

Oh, and one last thing - I got a set of long handled measuring spoons, so that I will be able to reach inside the jars to get the pool shock out without having to tip them up or whatever, risking getting this toxic substance on my skin or in my eyes (big nope).

http://www.amazon.com/ChefLand-Set-Sizes-Stainless-Ingredients/dp/B00AEUR6K8

I know metal isn't good with calcium hypochlorite, but I'm not storing them with the stuff and their contact time will be minimal, and I'll be washing them after each use. I just figure it's useful to try to consider the practicalities of how you will use stuff in reality... also, I'll probably not make 2 gallons, but rather only 1 gallon at a time, which will mean a heaped 1/2 teaspoon of pool shock. And how to store the bleach solution? I found some nice 1 gallon jars with plastic lids for that:

http://www.amazon.com/1-gallon-USDA-Fermentation-Glass-Jar/dp/B006ZRBGSC

The solution should be good for a couple of weeks, I think, if stored in a cool dark place. I guess you could also use it to treat your bucket toilet, so maybe you won't waste much.

Sorry, as you can tell I have thought way too much about this stuff. :P

Please excuse the length, I love making lists.

Video Production

Green Screen

Bounce

Tripod

Books

Dining with Dr Who

Writing movies for fun and profit This is a great book. I have it, absolutely hysterical.

Writing

Ink quill

TARDIS Deluxe Journal

Travel

Street Signs

Flags

Eiffel Tower Chocolate Mold

Little Window Beach

17th century world map

Watercolor World Map

Universal world wide adapter plug

Hidden pocket wallet



Science!

Liquid Gold Plating Kit

Molecular Gastronomy Kit

This one also works for gardening:
Moons and Blooms lunar calender

Inflatable earth with glow in the dark cities

Galilea Moon Phase Calendar and Clock

Glow in the dark lunar calender!

Art

Sunprint Kit

Scrapper tool set

Fantasy!

LOTR inspired necklace

Another LOTR inspired necklace

Dragon necklace

Dragon JEwerly box

These/this are/is a book, but Mercedes Lackey is a FANTASTIC fantasy writer. I'd start with the Mage Winds trilogy or Mage Wars series.

Outdoors

Portal-able Speakers If you want to listen to relaxing music (or just music) while reading or chilling outside, this is the perfect speaker. It goes pretty loud, my bro has one, I steal if to make my showers musical.

Solar power LED Water proof color changing globes

Ball lanterns!


Math

Math clock

Mental Math

Pi ice cube shape tray

Mini Abacus pendant keychain

And it was delicious

Math jokes

Math/science ice cube tray


Rubik's Cube office thingy

Abacus-they have these in all colors and shapes and what have you.

Spirituality

Wasn't quite sure what you're looking for, but these things are pretty relaxing and some of them are used in meditation or for relaxation/de-stress so I figured I could put 'em here.

[LED mini waterfall)(http://www.amazon.com/Mirrored-Waterfall-Light-Show-Fountain/dp/B008Q3GH1O/ref=pd_sim_hpc_17)

Zen reflection bonzai tree with a little pond

Candle and water fountain

Five tier illuminated fountain

Other random fun things!

DR Who Projector clock

Sherlock season one Dunno but I feel you might like this show.

Giant Nail polish set


Nail art brushes

LED faucet water glow thing

Alright! I think I'll stop there before this becomes a novel xD

Can she move at all, or sit with help?

Sauna can be incredibly helpful for arthritis, and, while I can't vouch for them, portable infrared saunas only cost a few hundred dollars.

https://amazon.com/SereneLife-Portable-Infrared-Person-Heating/dp/B07MV4NYDB

Now, while I've never used a device like this myself, I do use extreme heat to treat my autoimmune arthritic disease. Since any heat that can increase you body temperature (ideally above 100) will have an effect - both on the disease and in the form of immediate pain relief - it is likely that a device like this would be useful to your grandmother.

Technically known as induced hyperthermia, this process has been shown to have benefit in pretty much all forms of autoimmune disease, with specific evidence for various forms of arthritis - rheumatoid, osteoarthritis, spondylitis and arthritic psoriasis. Strong, feverish, heat triggers your immune system to dial back using the same process that activates healing and recovery after a feverish illness (heat shock proteins).

> Heat-shock proteins (hsps) are highly conserved and immunogenic, and they are generally perceived to be attractive initiators or targets of a pathogenic immune response and as such have been implicated in the pathogenesis of autoimmune arthritis. However, studies in animal models and arthritis patients have unraveled the disease-regulating attributes of self hsp65. We propose that the self hsp65 induces a protective and beneficial immune response owing to its ubiquitous distribution, stress-inducibility, and participation in tolerogenic processes. In contrast, the foreign hsp65 that does not influence the above processes, and which resides admixed with microbial ligands for innate receptors, generates an inflammatory pathogenic response. The regulatory properties of self hsps need be fully explored and might be utilized for therapeutic purposes.

https://www.google.com/search?q=heat+shock+proteins+arthritis

What's more, sauna provides many of the cardio benefits of exercise, such as IIC being shown to reduce the occurence of heart issues in older people. I assume that this happens because of the increase in heart rate it induces, though I haven't looked into it much. I did notice it having quite a strong effect on myself.

I've talked about this a lot, and submitted a lot of scientific articles on induced hyperthermia. So check my comments and post submissions, and AMA any questions you still have.

good luck

I am by no means an expert but here's what I do as a hot tub owner:

• Empty and refill for sure. Don't forget to turn off electricity before you drain it. Here's a neat trick. Put one end of the garden hose inside the full tub. Turn the water on so it fills the hose and starts filling the hot tub. Then disconnect the spigot end of the hose and make sure that end is lower than the hot tub water level / base. The tub should start draining. Once you refill, don't forget to turn on the power.
  
• I use bromine instead of chlorine because bromine dissolves slower and requires less maintenance. I bought a floating dispenser like this one from Amazon. It makes maintenance a lot easier. Fill it once with bromine tablets, check weekly.
  
• Definitely buy the test strips.
  
• Here are the other chemicals I use:
  
  • SpaGuard oxidizer (shock).
    
  • Amerse PH & Alkalinity Up.
    
    The brand doesn't really matter. I get them from Amazon.
    
• I keep the hot tub at 80-85F in the winter since I don't really use it. If you're going to use it often, and want it available fast, you can keep it at 98-100F. It costs money of course. for most tubs, I'd guess about $10-20/month but do your own math.
  
• I also have a hot tub bubble cover. It's very cheap but helps quite a bit.
  
• Here's my routine when not in use:
  
  • Once a week, run the jets and use the test strip to check the water. I have a 350 gallon tub. I add 3 tablespoons of shock and 2 tablespoons of "ph & alk up" even if the levels are fine. If any of the level is low, add more. If high, add less. I inspect the floating bromine dispenser and make sure it's got enough bromine. Adjust the level of the dispenser if bromine is too high or low. Run the jets for 15-20 minutes. That's it!
    
  • If you use the tub often, do the above step more often. Do it 20-30 minutes before you use it if you can. Buy a second filter. Replace the filter occasionally (based on use) and clean the filter you're not using with a filter cleaner and water.
    
  • Replace and refill water every 6 months if you use it often. 9-12 months if not very often.
    
  • If you see any growth of algae or if you see it foaming too much when you run, you need to be proactive.
    
  • If you use the tub often, you might want to invest in some chemicals to remove body oils etc.
    
    When I first got the house, I had a guy (former pool shop guy) who came in, cleaned the tub, and gave me a rundown of the chemicals I had inherited from the previous owner. You can use the nextdoor app to find out who the reliable pool people in your area are.
    
    Good luck!

Afraid I can't speak for the Dolphin since I've never worked with it. As for the others:

The Hayward functions well. It's an old design; tried and true. It'll climb walls and follow a pattern. Of the non-robotic cleaners you mentioned, it'll end up costing the most in maintenance. Nothing to break the bank, but it has gears, bearings, and feet that eventually wear down. If you're mechanically minded, they're not hard to break down and clean/rebuild. Maybe $50 a season starting in a year or two depending on the mileage.

(Aside: They've released a new cleaner that's meant to be a bit of a replacement that's worth looking at too. A bit sturdier and more modular. I liked the simplicity of working on it, what chances I got.)

Avoid the Smartpool. Sold these things and they can work very well. This might have changed, but as of last year you don't get a warranty if you buy online. And it's just about useless without that. I'd say 30% of the ones we put into the market came back within the year with some issue. The first gen had cord issues that they corrected. WITH the warranty we'd have a free replacement part, tune up, and test, and you'd be back in business within a few days. Without a warranty, you're SOL. Get it in store or don't get it at all.

For the Baracuda and Kreepy, you'll be getting one of the simplest, no BS cleaner types on the market. For wear and tear, they've got a diaphragm and the foot pad. Easy day. However, that mechanical simplicity also means they function simply. They might not climb the walls, depending on pressure/slope/depth. They'll also be random in their pattern. Not uncommon to have them loitering in certain areas.

The BIGGEST thing I can say about any cleaner you get, it's not a 100% set and forget solution. Take care of it! If you're going out of town, by all means leave it in the pool on a timer. It's great to come back to sparkling water; that's the whole point of a cleaner!

Don't, however, leave it in 24/7 exposed to the sun and chemicals. I've seen three year old Hayward Navigators that looked like they'd been drug through a minefield with repair costs higher than buying a new one. I've also seen Navigators that were over a decade old, bleached white, but still trucking with the occasional part replacement. Like a lawnmower, you've got to hose it off occasionally, check the insides, and keep it stored when not in use. If you do that, your $500 will go a long, long way.

Lithium-ion and lifepo have limited shelf and cycle lives, but it's still worth a shot. It will probably still work. You need to know the Ah capacity, not just the Amp output, to calculate how much energy it can store. Watt-hours = volts * amp-hours.

I guess you could shunt the excess power to heat water if you really can't find any other uses for it, but it just seems like it'd be less wasteful to charge a bigger battery bank instead (but not too big, if you're using lead-acid, because staying undercharged is bad for their chemistry; this matters less for lifepo and li-ion within like 20 to 80% charge).

What you could do instead is use the excess power for a circulating pump coupled to either a purpose-made solar thermal panel (vacuum tubes + circulating coolant) or a DIY one made with soda bottles painted black on one side. This combines the best of both worlds: the electricity circulates the water through a collector with large surface area while the sun(light) does the actual heating. Your available heat from the sun is about 1kW per square meter, so you want a water heater that's wide and flat (think kiddy lawn pool), not tall and skinny like a barrel. Now that I think about it, maybe something like an inflatable kiddy pool would be good for heating. They do make thermal-regulated pumps that only circulate the water when it's hotter on one side (the pool) than the other side (barrel), so it'll go: heat - wait - wait - wait - hot enough, circulate! - heat - heat - wait - wait - wait - hot enough, circulate! -- etc. until the whole barrel is equal to the shallow water temperature (or it gets dark and you get disappointed that you didn't just pay the 2 quarters for the campground shower).

A black plastic barrel will get warm but not hot because there's not enough surface area vs volume of the water. You have to spread the water out over an area to effectively heat it up over time, especially if you're going to be moving around and not just letting the barrel sit in a desert for a few days straight.

That will be heavy though. They do make some portable ones like this but it got very poor reviews: https://www.amazon.com/Intex-Solar-Heater-Ground-Swimming/dp/B00O80PSE6/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1468951407&sr=8-2&keywords=solar+water+heater

not sure if better ones exist.

A question about this is scale... do you mean "camping" like "I'm going to something like Burning Man where there's a lot of sun, I'll spend hours settingall it up and it'll be good for 2 weeks under direct sun" or camping like "I'm heading somewhere for a 2-day trip at the local campground, it needs to be easy to set up in 15 minutes and survive partial shade"?

I dont mind sharing, feel free to ask more. Ill try to explain, but english is not my native so bear with me :)

At home, all 3 children were born at home but only the last one in a special birth bath.
like this one
Warm water was helping me relaxing and I could move easier into a other position.
All thing that makes you normal relax will help you make feel more relax while giving birth. And things you do normal while in pain ( hot bath/ hot bag/ breathing exercise ect) will also help you.
So when I was giving birth I didnt want be disturpt, I was listering to music while lying in bath and my Dom/husband was sitting next to me and only when I wanted ( between the contractions) he did say some motivation words and holding my hand.

When you Google water birth you can find a lot of info and some video's.

Had a buddy do one on sand, but it was framed in (think like a sand box with 4x4 lumber) it worked out well. They dont like sand for sliding reasons, but his went through a decent earthquake without issues, also a Softer bottom of the pool. He did it high on the outside and dip down towards the middle, it kept the sides of the pool more vertical than bulbous. And gave a deeper middle by almost 6". That stopped slippage and siliding too I believe.

We have an 15' round by 45" AGP its on soil, I highly advise putting in a center main drain. It makes cleaning so much easier. The circulation is great, drastically reduces the amount of time neded to run the pump/filter to 4 hours daily. And you can get by brushing towards the center for clean up and less vacuuming time. It also pulls the solar blanket heated water down for even mixing and heating. Huge bonus there. It gets too warm at times, kinda like a bath tub, 95 or so for a month, where we leave the blanket off.

I also upgraded to a 1600 GPH sand filter, and separate salt system, they have a combo, it really made it effortless, no chems unless you want or need to shock it from heavy use, only shocked it once after we had 15 kids in it all day. A backwash once a month and cleaning the chlorine generators plates in vinegar and baking soda every other month. I used 2" PVC for everything no intex hoses getting holes. Oh and I added a through wall skimmer, not an over the rail one, 2" shut off valves for pulling stuff apart, and diverting skimmer and main drain and side wall intakes for vacuuming.

Im in Los Angeles and the pool usually stays up year round, but I took it down when we had a new roof put on to avoid accidental liner damage, I left the plumbing in ground and lining it all back up was easy enough with the help of my teen kids.

If you want some pictures let me know and ping me on Saturday. Or if you have questions anytime.

Im actually gonna pull my down and try to sell it, or at least the pump and salt generator, the kids are all teens now and didnt use it at all this year, we got a good 10 years out of it all, so Im happy.

Thats just my advice on it. None is necessary, but makes it easier, the stock pump would kill a filter every week, and vacuuming was slow and crappy. Heating didnt mix well , like a top layer of hot and a cold bottom. Took me 4 years to get all the pieces and figuting out how to cut down all the maintenance time, the last few years have been pretty maintenance free.

If anything, i advise the salt generator the most. Its 90 pounds of pool salt and some generators maintenance. Its not salty water, and it softens the water, its the biggest and best upgrade IMO.

Oh for the main drain, watch youtube videos on how to cut the liner, they lay the plumbing, get a smooth flooring fill it a few inches screw it togher, it helps you find the screw holes for the ring seal. Once thats in, cut the main hole and secure the grate cover, forget the gaskets the vinyl lines and the plastic rings sealed it perfectly.

I know, megans law and using one main drain is bad, But I still used the skimmer and the side wall intakes, so it was safe. And the shutoff vales were only used for vacuuming and maintenance reasons.

Oh i also upgraded the return fitting with a larger adjustable one. If I pointed it wideways it would make the water swirl around the pool, it had great flow.

I think that covers it all.

Links below for guidance/ideas on parts.

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Intex-1600-GPH-Saltwater-System-Sand-Filter-Pump-Set-for-Above-Ground-Pools/42560938?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=1187&adid=22222222228030424960&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=m&wl3=65033013849&wl4=pla-110635148889&wl5=9031045&wl6=&wl7=&wl8=&wl9=pla&wl10=112549749&wl11=online&wl12=42560938&veh=sem&gclid=CjwKCAjw-vjqBRA6EiwAe8TCkwpc6jqa-os2S9OYmXUmIDOqW_M-g1k6B9REEvt1Ofeyomr8obozPRoCdAsQAvD_BwE

https://www.walmart.com/ip/HAYWARD-SP1091LX-Above-Ground-Swimming-Pool-Dyna-Skimmer-Return-Accessory-Kit/36821335?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=1195&adid=22222222228024608265&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=m&wl3=52589369591&wl4=aud-566049426705:pla-84470338031&wl5=9031045&wl6=&wl7=&wl8=&wl9=pla&wl10=130258546&wl11=online&wl12=36821335&veh=sem&gclid=CjwKCAjw-vjqBRA6EiwAe8TCkyjHHU3_wQznrqfnBrcC3ZfVffn40CaEKMdauYlArEDTnCZ6YJuBMRoC-38QAvD_BwE

Hayward WG1154AVPAK2 2-Inch White Deluxe Suction Outlets with Adjustable Plaster Collar https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007YUPNDI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Bm4xDb847VJ7P

https://www.homedepot.com/p/LEGEND-VALVE-2-in-PVC-Solvent-Socket-Ball-Valve-S-600/203581050?mtc=Shopping-B-FBT-G-Multi-NA-Multi-NA-Feed-PLA-Catchall-NA-NA&cm_mmc=Shopping-B-FBT-G-Multi-NA-Multi-NA-Feed-PLA-Catchall-NA-NA-71700000014585962-58700001236285396-92700010802552406&gclsrc=aw.ds&&gclid=CjwKCAjw-vjqBRA6EiwAe8TCk9ffb-z1qsmUjwcB4u8xxqKRTyRiyOm5QdGGQWacLJAsWcVmI_fLmhoC8YMQAvD_BwE

YES!

Tea is the best thing ever, more people should drink it and most of y'all are doing it wrong.

Some useful tea information for you:

• You should never microwave the water to make your tea. That's just nasty.
  
  
• You can boil your tea on the stove like a savage, but almost every home in the UK has a proper electric kettle. We have a fast-boil one because why the hell would you want to wait for tea?!
  
  
• There are many opinions about the best type of tea. Ok, you have your fancy-pants ones like earl grey (shite) or fruit teas (what are you, hippies?!) but for a tasty as fuck everyday tea, I favour Yorkshire Tea.
  
  
• The best way to make tea is NOT to put the milk in the mug first. That doesn't allow for good strength control, and then it reduces the heat of the water meaning the leaves don't get to wander round the bag correctly.
  
  
• Put your teabag in the mug (I don't fanny about with teapots full of tea) and then add the water. Allow to steep for at least two minutes, depending on how strong it should be for your taste. Remove the bag and then add the milk. There is a school of thought that says you shouldn't squeeze the teabag, but that leads to drips all over the floor, so I break that rule.
  
  
• If you're enjoying a biscuit with your tea, the type of biscuit is critical. Too soft and you'll lose the integrity of the biscuit and end up with a mug of sugar soup. I like the Rich Tea or, my favourite, the Hob Nob
  
  TL:DR - tea good.
  

I bought this light a year ago and installed it in my pool after closing on my house:

P&LED (12V,35W) Color Changing Swimming Pool Lights Bulb LED PAR56 Light (switch control + remote control type) For Pentair Hayward Light Fixture,and For Inground Pool ,E27 Compatible with E26

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01JOFE6BK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_dOjPCbTAMFC6C

Some people had some negative reviews about it but overall I am pretty pleased with how it has worked for me so far and I have it on pretty much every single night. The red light isn’t that bright but I don’t care because it’s honestly not that pretty to look at. My favorite color is the cyan because it makes the water so inviting looking and is also very bright. Here’s a picture of my pool at night:

https://imgur.com/gallery/7wc3Fm3

Always happy to help! Cartridge filters can be fine, but unless you want to replace them every other month make sure you clean them every week to every few days - if you have a pool party with a lot of kids or sweaty people, shock the pool after straining solids, add clarifier, and clean the filters the very next morning.

I might also recommend a hose-adapter to clean cartridges called a filter flosser (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LQOMXL2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_jY-OCbCG0RK6M) and has been a lifesaver for me in the past. There are also cartridge soaking chemicals, and I'd recommend soaking and cleaning once every 3 months if regular maintenance is upheld.

Also where you have a spill-over setup, I would strongly recommend always having a spare set of filters available. They're pricey, but cheaper than replacing your heater.

Make sure you have a reliable flow meter installed just BEFORE the filters so you can watch flow yourself, and ask your technician what the minimum flow for your heater should be. If flow gets reduced too much while heating, you risk damaging or destroying the fire pot or elements. Not all systems have flow cut-offs, and not all cut-offs are perfectly reliable.

I'm making the same costume for my wife. I found flexible pvc spa hose on Amazon. It is rigid enough to hold it's shape, but flexible enough to bend: https://www.amazon.com/Sun2Solar-1%C2%BD-inch-Flexible-Above-Ground-Swimming/dp/B06W2N4Q1T/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=spa+hose&qid=1558119853&s=gateway&sr=8-5

I'm planning to add the "ribs" from her tentacles by using pipe insulation foam around the spa hose, and then shaping it with fine sand paper. Foam insulation is here: https://www.lowes.com/pd/Frost-King-1-in-x-6-ft-Foam-Plumbing-Tubular-Pipe-Insulation/3133247 . I'm still trying to figure out the best way to add that "alien skin" look to the tentacles. I'm looking into silicone molding, but it looks pretty advanced for me.

Good luck!

What is on the wall on the back? With the shelving unit?

Without knowing that, here’s my recommendation based off of what you’ve said.

couch minimalist with a pop of color. Converts to futon, for those days you want to watch the rain hit the window and lay down.

other couch these couches are cheap, but will get the job done. If you aren’t watching TV in here like you said, I can’t imagine needing high quality couches to nap and lounge on all day.

$300 landed (we will say).

chalkboard/corkboard for your mini office space and to get the post its off the wall.

or build your own at IKEA pegboard shelf combo.

So let’s say $335.

clearly a conversation piece to the right against the wall with the wires to hide all of them (I’m kidding this is so expensive)

but a cabinet like this may be better it will hide all of those wires, you’ll have cabinets to put work and school stuff too.

or like this I cant really tell what color your other pieces of furniture are.

Essentially though hide those wires with a buffet table. Use the buffet table as a cabinet for paperwork etc.

Then decorate the top of it with bar stuff (if you drink). That’s simple enough. Some nice glasses, bottles, decanter, etc.geometric shapes would look nice

Decorate with clear large containers on the bar area glass jars are inexpensive at Marshall’s or target

Lots you can do with it. Ask your gf what she likes. I personally get dried weird curly straw things or dried eucalyptus for mine. Put on Buffett table.

Let’s say $150 for decorations.so
$485

an end table or two other option

$585

lamp

Or thislight ball

^ i personally like it but who knows

$700

Then wall art by a local artist that you can find around the city. One that matches the color couch you pick. I’d personally do a mustard yellow or dark green. Once again, preference.

If you don’t want the end table. Get a coffee table.
glass
not glass, you can probably find cheaper elsewhere

Let’s say you don’t get the end tables but you get a coffee table. Let’s put that around $850-$900

a chair would be nice doesn’t have to be anything crazy

$1,100

Then blankets and throw pillows. local art.

And I personally believe in storage ottomans or furniture or something of the sort. Just for random shit you can toss in there when picking up.


I like your carpet. Keep that.

Goodluck.

This TR-100 is the new iteration of the tried and true Pac-Fab bobbin wound filter design, so yes... this is a good filter.

I'm not a fan of the Pentair 261050 2-Inch HiFlow Valve because I recall some odd problem they had with it (may be remedied by now) AND that it has an unusual plumbing configuration - but those two things aside, it does allow a higher flow due to it's improved interior design.

The tried and true (multiport) valve is the Pentair 261055 Multiport Valve for Triton And Quad D.E. Filters, 2 Inch, 7 1/2 Inch Centerline which is pretty much their industry standard for more than twenty years now (since they stopped using Hayward multiport valves!).

So, that would be my sand filter setup of choice. Now that you're considering a more expensive filter, have you checked out Pentair's DE (diatomaceous earth) filters? Better, finer filtration in the same amount of filter time although a bit more maintenance as the media has to be replaced occasionally.

But yes, that is a good filter.

Sort answer Teflon Teflon Teflon on the threads. Gizmos can be used with teflon and do serve double function that way. Pool_Guy was getting at that issue. They plug the skimmer line as well as anything physically possible and protect against freeze expansion. They also make a special Gizmo of a special kind or different name. That has o-rings at the bottom threads. But also has a cap at the top which can be removed and can blow the skimmer out above the water level of the pool. So 1) Put in the Gizmo/ Gizmos. 2) Remover the caps. 3) Blow the skimmers out. 4) When skimmer line and Gizmo are COMPLETELY empty...and they can be. Replace the caps.http://www.amazon.com/Gizzmo-MWUG-Skimmer-Protection-Blowout/dp/B004VU8H5U. Also open all valves. When blowing out returns they can be done in order from closest to furthest. This will ensure the best blowout. The air is going to displace water and take the path of least resistance i.e. the bubbles are gonna be huge at closest return and lesser at furthest. Just plug them in order of closest to furthest. You will be doing the best possible way. Keep in mind on deep stuff water is also an insulator.

The first and best thing you can do is go to TroubleFreePool.com and read everything in their Pool School section. Make sure you pay extra attention to the sections on the SLAM protocol and the chemical info. Feel free to message me (or post over there) if you have any questions.

Regardless of what people might have told you, pools can be pretty easy to take care of, especially after you get them going. Preventative maintenance is way easier than falling behind. Owning a pool is like having a pet: Even if you don't want to play with it, you still have to feed it. It's also like brushing your teeth: you can spend pennies/day, every day, or not do it for awhile and spend thousands of dollars fixing things.

As for basic equipment:

• A pool pole that you attach everything to.
  
  
• A pool net that attaches to the pole for fishing out stuff (leaves, acorns, things like that -- note this net has an angled/beveled bottom so you can 'scrape' it along the bottom of the pool to lift leaves and stuff off and into the netting)
  
  
• A vacuum head that you attach to the pole, and attach a vacuum hose to, to suck out stuff that you can't get with the net.
  
  
• A vacuum hose that attaches to the vacuum head on one end, and likely to your skimmer on the other end. This uses the suction produced by your pool pump to suck things out of your pool.
  
  
• A pool brush -- I use the "wall whale" model but any of them will work fine. You use this to brush the walls and side of your pool to help keep them clean. If your pool ever goes green, you'll have algae on your walls and bottom and you use this to brush that off the walls and into the water so the chlorine can help kill the algae.
  
  For a testing kit, I highly recommend you avoid testing strips, and splurge a bit for the TF-100 test kit with the SpeedStir, and the XL option. It's expensive, and worth every penny. If you're going to be closing this pool soon for the winter, I'd wait to buy the testing kit in the spring so your testing reagents are as fresh as possible when you open the pool.
  
  If you go the TroubleFreePool route, you'll be a large purchaser of bleach. I buy it about 15-gallons at a time from Wal-Mart -- just plain, unscented bleach. Anything else adds unneeded and unnecessary chemicals to your pool. Pay attention to the date code on the jug ("19250" means it was manufactured in 2019 on the 250th day of the year, newer is better since chlorine degrades over time), and the percentage of chlorine in the bleach -- most generic laundry bleach is 6%, the extra cheap stuff (which you don't want) doesn't even show the percentage so don't buy it! "Pool chlorinating liquid" from Wal-Mart is 10% bleach, and some pool stores sell 12.5% bleach.
  
  My 20k-gallon pool usually takes about a half-gallon/day of regular 6% bleach to keep the chlorine levels stable (sometimes added every day, sometimes added every 2-3 days). Other than initial setup in the spring when I add about $15 worth of chlorine stabilizer, and the occasional small dose of muriatic acid to keep the pH down, I rarely have to add anything else. Maybe a little baking soda when I first open in the spring, but nothing crazy. 99% of the "chemicals" I put in my pool is just plain bleach, and my water stays crystal clear and all chemical levels within range, all the time.

As a long time broadcast engineer and amateur radio operator, working this kind of project is fun for me, so I enjoy helping any way I can.

Let's start with some assumptions:

• You want to hear what you would if you were swimming at the location of the microphone (no ultrasonics or infrasonics).
  
• The volume of the sound would be somewhere between a human whisper (or dolphin mumble) and a shout.
  
• Only the microphone (hydrophone) would need to be submerged; there would be dry, above-water space for equipment that could be kept dry and relatively temperate (Above 32º below 100º F).
  
• There would be a way to gain stable, above-water height for an antenna that needs to maintain its orientation in inclement weather.
  
• The climate is such that at least some direct sunlight would be expected on most days (for solar power).
  
• Initially use a direct radio link with a service distance is no farther than the radio horizon, a little farther than the optical horizon, depending on antenna heights at both ends of the signal path (maximum practical range about 15 miles).
  
• A mast- or tower-mounted receiving antenna with line-of-sight to the transmitter is possible.
  
• You would use readily available commercial hardware.
  
  With these as a starting point, the hydrophone from this system could be connected to a commercial VHF wireless microphone transmitter like this. With some small modifications, these low-power units could be solar powered. Transmitting and power supply equipment (including batteries) could be mounted in a sealed enclosure like one of these.
  
  To extend the range, the wireless transmitter could connect to commercial TV antennas to provide a link of 500 ft. or more. The receiver could be connected to almost any audio system for listening or to the audio input of a laptop computer for recording. This setup would be inexpensive and "real-time" with microseconds of delay between an actual sound and when it was heard.
  
  A second level might be a digital setup based on a computer and streaming transmission between the remote audio source and a receive point using IP. This would be more expensive but would have a number of advantages, including the ability to record the audio at the hydrophone site for later recovery. There are a wide variety of commercial IP radio links available for short-range (up to the radio horizon) transmission to connect to a LAN and/or the public internet. It's also possible to use satellite connectivity such as Hughesnet, for nearly unlimited coverage.
  
  A power system like this could power almost any setup you might want to use. A much smaller system could power a low-power direct link.
  
  Hope this gives you some ideas on how to start.
  
  I'm insanely curious about this, so please if you have questions, please ask.
  
  Larry
  
  
  
  
  

I think this is what you want.

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=https://www.taylortechnologies.com/Instructions/5136.pdf&ved=0ahUKEwiFrKT1-evTAhUJ8IMKHUKQA-IQFggwMAE&usg=AFQjCNEqEy9ZytogOpqemuuM7g-2aCRzsA&sig2=Vw-GbwyNF3uXrApVRHoetQ

Do the pink and yellow tests daily. The other tests every couple of weeks.

Use an online calculator to help you balance the pool, like this one:
http://poolcalculator.com/?utm_source=www.poolcalculator.com&utm_medium=redirect&utm_campaign=redirect/

Also, learn how to backwash your filters. For your pool, I'm guessing do that every one to two weeks.

I'm a former certified pool operator from Idaho and worked at pools for 20 years, including one 160,000 gallon pool and a 1 million gallon pool. I'm unfamiliar with a chlorine free pool, unless it is referring to a different sanitizing agent like Bromine. Taking care of your pool frequently will help you learn the pool and what tendencies it has. You will probably know when you need to balance the ph or add chlorine. Other things like the alkalinity or saturation index are a little trickier, and you may want to consult someone at a local pool store when those are off (just be aware they usually suggest adding a lot more chemicals than you really need, $$, so the more you learn, the more you will save).

Also, if the water seems cloudy, but all the tests are normal, try getting a pool clarifier. It clumps together all the tiny particles in your pool so that they get caught in the filter. The next day, your pool will be crystal clear. Just backwash after use. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0064E8BL6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_JuVfzbC9Q739H

These are the basics I can suggest. Good luck.

Impeller and diffuser look good, definitely replace the Seals while you have it open. The back plate/Seal Plate however, if you look at the bottom left part where the motor bolt connects to the plate it looks like it starting to crack. You can try to re-use that plate and hope the brass insert doesn't pop out, but in the long run it would be best to replace.

Edit: A little trick of the trade when installing the pump seal/PS-1000
Good Luck!