Best products from r/moped

On my Pinto I use this OnGuard lock and put it through the frame like so. The other end I'll put around the most solid thing I can find that ideally is capped on the top to prevent a group of people from lifting it up and over (at home that's a balcony support beam or the beam supporting the staircase). The bar end also prevents someone from rolling away with it as it stops the pedals from turning. If I remember correctly the Magnum has similar holes in the frame that would work fine.


For my 103 and other step through bikes, I use another noose style chain and u-lock around the frame but otherwise same basic setup.


Regardless though of what style lock you get, I would definitely recommend lubricating it every so often. After 4 years and being a bit neglectful I had the OnGuard lock jam and refuse to open and had to cut it off. On the bright side, I saved the chain and bar itself and also took me about 3 hours of careful cutting with an angle grinder to get it free. Which actually made me feel a bit better about the lock.

It's easy lift the frame, don't remove back, just the front long bolt. Stick the front wheel in a milk crate. I can have a carb in and out pretty quickly.

Where is this airleak? I've never had a prob with an airleak at the carb on any of my hobbits...and i've owned a bunch of them.

Try this stuff: http://www.amazon.com/Permatex-80062-High-Gasket-Sealant/dp/B000HBGHB8/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1407247928&sr=8-2&keywords=gasket+sealant (you can get at local autostore)
from the intake of the cylinder to the intake itself, from intake to carb.\
It's also great for base gaskets too! Creates a good gas resistant seal, while not being permanent for easy removal later. Better then silicone crap that just squeezes out of the mating area.

IMO, the phva is just going to run like shit on a hobbit. The stock carb pushes the best velocity of gas/air to that cylinder on a hobbit.

Also not having an airfilter could potentially cause problems by not have any back pressure. I've always ran the stock airbox with my stock carb other wise, they would run like shit.

I'm currently using the OnGuard Bulldog DT U-Lock. I hook it through the rear wheel into the cargo rack, which prevents the rear wheel from turning, then secure the cable to something solid nearby and attach it to the U-lock. If I'm parking somewhere that doesn't have an anchor point, then I loop the cable through the front wheel and attach it to the U-lock, which I (again) hook through the back wheel and cargo rack. It's good to keep in mind that any lock system can be defeated if someone is determined enough, but this has worked well for me thus far and provides me with peace of mind. Sidenote: I picked up this lock combo set for $24.99 in late June from Amazon, so the price has definitely gone up, but I'm sure you could probably find it cheaper elsewhere.

Cant find any specs for a VM14 or VM14SH, but it should get you 1. great mileage and 2. awesome low end power, assuming its re-jetted correctly, or using a adjustable jet.

Your not going to have much top speed though since it will probably be hitting max flow at about 7-8k rpm. (for 50->70cc that is, after all its a 40% normalized volume increase. in reality its much more because of how the bypass-puschback exhaust compression on a 2stroke works, but meh.)

here, have some reading:

http://www.mopedarmy.com/wiki/Carburetor

http://iheartstella.com/resources/manuals/tuning/Graham-Bell-Two-Stroke-Performance-Tuning.pdf (Page 93 and on, esp page 112 which illustrates the carb sizing i mentioned,, but really, this entire PDF is the GO-TO document of 2 stroke theory, setup and tuning. get the book if you dont like on-screen reading

Yep, I've got one and it works great for carrying one moped at a time (Express pictured, but I've also used it to carry other mopeds, including my Murray and my Hobbit). Front wheel off, use four ratchet straps—one on each corner. Here's another view of it.

Here it is on Amazon for $108.

I've had friends make their own custom ones but only because they want it attached to the car in two places, instead of just at the receiver. Any hitch-mounted carrier definitely wobbles a tad (although that's all within the design limits).

I liked the circular chrome Tomos mirror from treats. Any circular mirror looks fresh on a Streetmate. You can see how mine looked in one of my earlier posts. As far as a good replacement, I got one of these (link below) the other day and I like that it’s a wider angle than the original circular ones. You will need thread adapters though for the larger thread size.

mirrors

It’s the Thule Pack n Pedal

Thule Pack 'n Pedal Basket https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FNSSDDA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_OJMNDbWZAK54K

It’s great, already love it and fits the rack well

DOS cycles also can find one if treats (or any local bicycle shop) doesn't have one.

I have and it's pretty straightforward but you'll need some tools if you plan on doing a full rebuild. A three jaw puller, a bolt type puller for the clutch wheel (and some bolts and fender washers), blind bearing puller, a seal puller like this is very helpful, and a 20 ton press making things rather easy. I'm obviously excluding the basics like sockets, wrenches, picks, snap ring pliers and a dead blow hammer.

That's assuming you're taking the case fully apart and replacing every gasket, bearing, and oil seal. If you are just going to replace the clutch/accelerator brushes and that oil seal and gasket you should only need a bolt type puller, oil seal puller, and a snap ring pliers (and wrenches/sockets).

If you haven't already count the teeth on your front sprocket (the gear the chain is on your engine) easiest way is to find the master link and disconnect it and take the chain off to see. If you have less than 13 you can swap that out for a higher top speed, 13 tooth drops right in and the 14 requires a small bit of material removal for it to drop in.

My biggest issue with converting anything to LED is going from AC from the magneto to the DC that most LED setups require. On top of that, you will probably need 12 Volts since most mopeds are a 6v light circuit and that's kinda weak when it comes to LEDs.

SO, with all that in mind, you will need a 12v coil and a full wave rectifier to convert that 12VAC to 12VDC. half wave will covert 12VAC to 6VDC. If you are still going to use filament bulbs, you will also need a regulator or like 14.7v or whatever it is bulbs. Even though it's a 12V coil, it will probably shit out like 14 or so and that will blow those bulbs pretty quickly if left unregulated. LED stuff usually has a range of voltage it will accept but not always, so be sure to check that.

Anyways, this coil is cheap and already has a floating ground making the DC conversion easier.

These will work well for rectifiers (i'd put one at the tail and one at the headlight) or you could get a trail tech reg/rec if you don't mind the pricetag

I hope that makes sense.

As a bit of newbie to this whole moped thing, I was just happy to get my Puch that I had bought it pieces to get running again. I am going to look at the timing although I did set it myself I am going to check up on to see what I can do to make it more complete with the new kit. Also with jetting could I get something like this (the link) and they would fit into my bing carb. I am new to the jetting and running of a carb

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https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XHZKC8M?pf_rd_p=183f5289-9dc0-416f-942e-e8f213ef368b&pf_rd_r=AJQGV0QD1HRVFD0SC2GA

Yes, I have a nice set of spoons like these: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DK2VOS6/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_iXhUDbZRCYF2R and I've used them on many tires.

The tire was so old and hard that even working together with my friend we couldn't get the tire to stretch enough to come off the rim.

Cutting it off was Plan B, we ended up using the spoons to pull the bead out far enough that we could cut through it with the dremel without tearing the cutting wheel up with the rim, thats when we found the tire had metal bands around the bead.

Sure! To do it you will need a piston stop. This is that I used. You take out the spark plug and thread it in it’s place. Then you’ll want to unbolt the kick starter (10mm) and unbolt the 8mm bolts that hold the black cover on. Be sure to push against the kick starter rod when pulling the cover off or you might mess up the gears inside and it’s a pain to get them back to the right place, (ask me how I know lol). You should see a 17mm nut on the left side. You will want to remove that nut and washer. Then the variator should slide off. You’ll need to unscrew the cover. It might be stuck on there pretty good, so you can take a flathead screwdriver and push against it from the other side. It’ll come off. Here are some pictures of the Variator and where it is on the bike. You’ll see where the six slots hold the weights. You’ll just need to pull three out and then drill the holes in the other three. Then slap it back on and put the BX31 belt on as well and you should be all done.

Yeah I recommend just researching more. I knew nothing last January and built a custom battery for my moped the past 2 months.
Check out this book. It has everything I used for it. Plus he has YouTube videos. He doesn’t pay me for this. I was just enthusiastic enough to learn.

DIY Lithium Batteries: How to Build Your Own Battery Packs https://www.amazon.com/dp/0989906701/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_uekvDbPFXV23H

See if your local Autozone or similar has a thread pitch gauge you can borrow. Or buy your own. They're not that expensive and they're pretty useful, IMO. https://www.amazon.com/Grip-Thread-Pitch-Gauge-SAE/dp/B004ROIU2A

I use this bad boy. the fabric on the chain can take a beating. While the cable isn't very long I wrap it around the metal bar and my frame. When I have a bicycle rack available to me I'll use that. otherwise a stop sign pole does pretty good too. Visibility is important. Even where I live most people aren't going to steal a bike locked up under a big lamp. u/blank5tare's recommendation is pretty good too I've used that in the past.

This tool works great. But why not just get a new cable?

https://www.amazon.com/Motion-Pro-08-0182-Cable-Luber/dp/B0012TYX9W/ref=asc_df_B0012TYX9W/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312158603728&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=13462585751006127118&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9004586&hvtargid=pla-460266440593&psc=1