Reddit mentions: The best rc engines & parts

If that's all you're worried about, just go electric.

A thermometor gun runs you around $20, I've linked to one <$15 but can't attest to its quality. That's a drop in the bucket compared to anything else R/C will cost you. (A long-running battery will run you Closer to $30.) (Also, I love this E-bay seller. Highly recommend.) In general, a higher run time is achieved by having more mAh in a battery Usually 4,000 mAh is more than enough, especially if you have two or more batteries.)

If you find your motor getting too hot, you can buy a heatsync for it. Anything like this will work fine, even if it doesn't have a fan. Modifying the chassis to fit something like this can also be fun, if you're into it.

Also, here's a rundown on LiPo batteries, if you want to read in on them. It may seem like a lot to take in, but I promise that it's much simpler than a nitro engine, especially if you're just getting into the hobby.

Oh, and one more thing: if you don't want to deal with the relatively complicated LiPo batteries, you can simply power your car of choice with a NiMh battery, though these are generally more expensive (and offer lower performance) compared to a LiPo with the same mAh (run time). As a tradeoff, they are more durable, less volatile, and are much more of a "charge and forget" technology.

Feel free to ask around if you have any questions, the sub isn't very active but it never hurts to ask :)

That's all stuff for control line planes.

The engine is constant speed, it starts then runs until it runs out of fuel. The fuel for these is also the lubricant. If the engine is stuck and won't turn over, take the glow plug out of the top and drip some fuel into the cylinder and let it soak for a bit. If it still won't turn over, take the prop off and soak the whole engine in a cup of fuel.

If you look into the bottom of those spark-plug looking things they likely have thin wire coils inside, which means they're glow plugs.

The silver bottle cap with the tubes is probably a fuel pump. Screw it into the fuel bottle in place of the cap, and run a fuel line from it to the planes fuel tank, then pump the plunger up to draw fuel.

To start the engine, you put 1.5v battery power to the glow plug (those look larger than current standard glow plugs, so you'll likely have to use alligator clips or something, positive to the top pin, negative to the outer shell) which heats the coil, drip some fuel into the carburetor (the hole behind the prop) then turn the prop over by hand (or if you like your fingers, use a chicken stick) until the engine starts. Remove the battery lead and the heat from combustion will keep the glow plug warm. It should run for a second or so from just fuel dripped into the carb. The screw on the side of the carb is to adjust fuel / air mixture for the fuel coming in through the fuel line, and can adjust engine running speed. Usual method is to screw it all the way in, then out about 2.5 - 3 turns for a good starting position. Screwing in leans the mixture (less fuel), screwing it out makes it run richer.

The exhaust these produce is pretty messy and oily, Windex and paper towels work great to remove any mess.

These are fun to play with, but not too commonly used any more, due to the lack of throttle control. Good luck, and make sure it's secured well to the bench or whatever before you fire it up!

The steering linkages limit front suspension travel. You want to taper the holes on both end to stop them limiting front suspension travel. When the suspension hits those limits it can make the car do unpredictable things.


Pick up some 1,000,000 weight diff oil. Put that in the front, use the kit grease in the rear diff. Or if you're willing to throw a few more dollars at it, use 200k out back. When you aren't diffing out, life is much better. Also, if you wanna slide around like your favorite rally star put the million weight out back, and the 200k out front. :-) (it's 5 minutes to make the swap..)


Pick up a "decent" steering servo. I like the Turnigy D99 when i'm feeling cheap.


I run the TT01e in Euro truck... so I've got some time on mine. :-)


Buy bearings! https://www.amazon.com/Tamiya-TT-01-Chassis-Sealed-Bearing/dp/B00KKPG086/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1543398520&sr=8-2&keywords=tt01+bearings


And have fun! (Bug me if you need more advice)


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I personally use these, but most people recommend avid RC revolution bearings for thier value.

Yup. US65 has higher KV motors and smartaudio, UR65 body is better. I'd recommend folks get the US65 and either a UR65 or (my choice) betafpv 65x pro frame.

That's all you really have to do, but there's a few more things that make it even better.

Replacing the pigtail with the betafpv one helps with power and flight time as well, unless they've upgraded that recently.

Drop project mockingbird on there to really lock things in..

https://www.t0t0.fr/2018/10/08/ur65-uk65-us65-flight-improvement/ has all the steps.

From amazon, pretty sure local hobby shops might have them. I went with rubber seals insteal of metal. 5x13x4mm Precision Ball Bearings ABEC 3 Rubber Seals (10) 695-2RS-BU https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ZVF8J3O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_723FDb3P3PMPW

It looks like it comes with plastic bearings in the manual that's online. I assume you just mean that it's an upgrade that should be done from the start? If so, should these bearings do me good?

Here is everything that I can see that is missing. I've listed everything except transmitter/receiver, charger, battery and body.

If you have all that plus what is pictured you're looking at $100+ in parts and that is still operating under the assumption that everything pictured is working. If you wanted to try to do this on a budget, I'd look at broken "for parts only" trucks on ebay or local craigslist. (You can get a new "roller" there for $179 btw)

TRA7022 chassis

TRA7026 Battery covers /vents

TRA7024X receiver box

TRA7043 shock mount posts / steering pivot / steering horn

TRA2080 steering servo

TRA7090 motor mount plate (I cant tell if its in the picture)

TRA7077 motor mount hinge and gear cover

TRA7015 body mounts

TRA7023 tie bars

TRA7158 rocker arms

TRA7037 skid plates

TRA7135 bumpers

Optional parts/upgrades:

TRA7121 Wing mount +
TRA7122/TRA7123/[TRA7122G] (https://www.rcplanet.com/Traxxas_Wing_with_Decal_Sheet_Exo_Carbon_Finish_1_16_E_Revo_VXL_p/tra7122g.htm) Wing

TRA7184 wheelie bar assembly

Full bearing kit (if you're rebuilding anyways might as well replace missing/shot bearings)

Stainless steel screw set optional but it makes the truck easier to work on later especially if you drive in wet conditions.

chassis brace aftermarket chassis braces (can help prevent future chassis breaks)

These WILL fit:

https://www.amazon.com/2x5x2-5mm-MR52-ZZ-Precision-Bearings-Chrome/dp/B00TVPSCVO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1502528708&sr=8-1&keywords=2mm+bearing

https://www.amazon.com/Miniature-Bearings-MR63ZZ-L-630-673ZZ/dp/B00ZHSQX42/ref=sr_1_1?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1502528834&sr=1-1&keywords=3mm+bearing

I LOVE my UR65. I tinker a lot with it, and fly it almost daily.
My go to frame is the Betafpv 65 It's taken endless beatings and keeps on trucking.
The only problem I had with the stock frame, like the one /u/kekafuch linked, was the battery holder was weak. It didn't hold that securely, and broke on my original build after not too many crashes.

Here's an amazon link: (hope it's allowed)
https://www.amazon.com/10x19x5mm-Precision-Bearings-Rubber-6800-2RS/dp/B01BO7USG8/

@OP, you're looking for 10x19x5mm bearings. If you want ceramic, check out eBay but you're not going to notice the difference.

I know this is old post but when i frist build my D-Bot is couldn't get the gantry to move worth a damn. It all stemmed from the awful Chinese bearings in the wheels. The worst part was that it was nearly impossible to get the bearings out of the wheels without nicking the delrin.. I endded up getting all new wheels from open builds and some good quailty bearings. Everything moves like butter since. I truly believe its worth the extra $$

For affordable break barrel for humane squirrel kills I got this : https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004V959NO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_SOFBybKH01K1C

The stock trigger pull is crap but it can be fixed with one of these: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NKS95HS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_UPFBybGPAWKWZ
There are youtube tutorials for this if you decide to try it.

EDIT:
This is the weird big bearings on the back of the V1's.

• Cheap
  
• Pretty
  
• Expensive
  
• Ceramic?
  
  What to search for:
  6804 20x32x7mm
  
  There's shit everywhere.