Reddit mentions: The best rc vehicles & accessories

I figure this may help anyone thinking about building a brushed micro, but didn't know where to start or shop. This is my list of preferred of components when I'm planning a brushed micro build. Happy New Year, and I hope this will bring in some more people into the custom built micro brushed multicopter world. Good Luck and happy building!

Websites and Threads I use for info:

• Micro Motor Warehouse Community Forum - Only a few months new, and already the best source for information regarding brushed micro builds.
  
  
• RCGroups 90mm-145mm brushed micro fpv build thread - Great thread for reading about other people's builds and tips on rcgroups. Run by a very knowledgable member: 1Hammer)
  
  
  Brushed Micro Frames:
  
  
• MMW Carbon Micro-H
  
  
• MMW Carbon Micro-Hex
  
  
• Phoenix Flight Gear 135mm Micro-H
  
  
• Phoenix Flight Gear 130mm Micro-Hex
  
  
  
• SOSx Micro-X V3 130mm
  
  
  
• SOSx Dragonfly V2 Micro-Hex 130mm
  
  
  
• Picnic Efficiency Racer Frames
  
  
  
• Picnic/MMW Reggae Shark V2
  
  
  Brushed Motors:
  
  
• [Hubsan H107C/D Replacement motors 8.5mm] (http://www.amazon.com/Hubsan-H107C-H107D-Original-Quadcopter/dp/B00SKUJL2K/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1448305571&sr=8-2&keywords=hubsan+motor) - Cheap and tame. Good for slower indoor builds.
  
  
  
• Multirotorsuperstore 0820-17 motors - Fast, efficient, and cheap. Good choice if you go through a lot of motors.
  
  
• MMW Chaoli 0820-15 "Fast" motors - Good mix of power & efficiency. Ideal for FPV platforms.
  
  
• MMW Chaoli 0820-17 "Dark Edition" motors - The fastest & most expensive of the bunch. Pulls the most amps too. Not suitable for Nano QX flight controls. Best with Beef's or Multiflite FC's.
  
  
  
  Flight Controls:
  
  
  
• Blade Nano-QX FPV 4-in-1 - Good for beginners, cheap, built in receiver, not the best board for acro, and lvc is annoying, but it's the cheapest DSM2/DSMX compatible board available, and no configuration needed.
  
  
• Beef's Brushed Board - Very nice 32-bit flight control. Fully tunable via cleanflight, accepts sat receivers, optional hex adapter available. Moderately expensive.
  
  
• Multiflite Nano-B - My personal favorite. Quad or Hex capabilities, built in spektrum sat rx plug & bind button. Built in jst connector for ftdi adapter (no messing with boot pins). Fully tunable via cleanflight, Most expensive of the bunch.
  
  
• Micro scisky 32bit - Newest 32-bit controller. So far reviews are very positive, and it's very affordable. Quads only. Same as the Hobby King Quanum Pico
  
  
  
  Propellers:
  
  
• Aflunta Clear Hubsan style props - Best hubsan style props available. Very durable. Quieter & more stable than stock hubsan props.
  
  
• JJRC 1000A Props - Ladybird style, but thicker, more flexible, and more thrust than hubsan props.
  
  
• Parrot Rolling Spider props - The most thrust, largest prop radius (73mm), & most expensive. A good match for CL-0820-15 "fast" motors.
  
  Batteries:
  
  
• Nano-tech 1s 750mah Lipo - The standard for micro FPV platforms. Good blend of punch and flight time. Maybe on the heavy side for some people. Yields about 5minute flights on avg with 8mm motors and full fpv gear.
  
  
• Nano-tech 1s 600mah 35C lipo - Good lipo if you are concerned about weight. Yields about 4 minutes of flight time w/ 8.5mm motors and fpv gear.
  
  
• Nano-tech 1s 950mah 25C lipos - My choice for micro-hex builds since they have no problem carrying the additional weight. Yields 5-5:30min flights with a micro-hex w/ 8.5mm motors and fpv gear.
  
  Cameras:
  
  
• RMRC 520tvl Pico Camera - 90 deg FOV. Great picture. Great for night flying, 3g, Moderately expensive.
  
  
• 600tvl micro wide angle camera - 170 deg FOV. CHEAP!!!! Not the best picture, but... CHEAP!!! You can install a 808 camera #16 wide angle lens to bring the FOV down to 120 deg. Not the best for night flying or for a really bright day.... dynamic range isn't that great... but it's CHEAP! Did I mention it was cheap?
  
  VTX:
  
  
• Altitude RC 25mw 5.8ghz vtx - My vtx of choice for micro builds. 25mw is enough to cover a full sized football field. Built in LC filter makes for a clean picture. Fatshark band only.
  
  
• FPV Hobby TX5810 - 10mw-100mw adjustable power, 50mw default. Needs a 5v step up and lc filter for reliable usage. Smallest form factor if you need to squeeze it into a tight space.
  
  
• Oversky 200mw micro vtx - For people who run boscam equipment. Needs a 9v step-up regulator.
  
  
• FX758-2 5.8G 200mW 24CH - Another popular option for boscam users. The page says 32ch, but in reality it's only 24ch. It covers both boscam high and low bands. Great if you are comfortable building your own vtx w/ a separate dip switch module, and you have a 32ch receiver.
  
  Antenna:
  
  
• FPV Hobby 1g micro antenna - Soldering required. Not for use with vtx's that require a U.fl connector (i.e. the attitude 25mw fatshark vtx).
  
  
• True RC Clover Leaf - Nice, expensive, works great. Best if you buy this bundled in the RMRC Component fpv kit w/ the pico camera and altitude rc vtx.
  
  LED's:
  
  
• Apex RC nano-qx led kit - Simple to use and install.
  
  
• Hubsan 3v Blue leds
  
  
• Hubsan 3v White leds
  
  
• Hubsan 3v green leds
  
  
• I do not suggest using the Hubsan Red led's on a custom build since you need to use a sub-2v drop down. The Red led's run on lower voltage, and you'll burn them out if you connect them directly to a 3v power source. Use 5v red led's if you want to have red led's in a DIY build.

Buy cheap and buy twice. Save your money and get good stuff. The extra money you'll spend will be less in the long run when you factor in having to upgrade all of your current equipment when you start getting serious and realizing you shouldn't have gone cheap.

• Do you want a monitor? For that price you can do a DIY goggle system which is much more immersive.
  
  
• That camera isn't great (especially considering the best camera you can buy is only $35) and that VTX transmits too hot to be used in a race. You can get a 200mw ImmersionRC VTX for ~$30. If you wanted to spend a little more you could get the TBS Unify Pro or TBS Unify Pro HV (the newest version which has a built in regulator) which, on top of other nice features, lets you adjust the output mW between 25-200-500-800
  
  
• I always recommend the Alien 5' frame first and the QAV 250 second. If you don't want to spend $100 more dollars on a frame - I don't blame you, but you get what you pay for. You can buy clones that have lesser quality or stick with the one you have picked out. Keep in mind, the Rotor Riot edition frame I linked to includes a lot of nice extras that you'll end up needing during your build - zip ties, ratched ties, foam padding, heat shrink, wires, etc.
  
  
• Those motors are small. Depending on if you want to race or if you're just looking to fly casually, you'll need to double your motor budget and get something bigger that can deliver more power. The best motors out right now for price and performance is the Emax 2205 2300kv (aka "Red Bottom") motors. They also happened to be recently added to the Rotor Riot store and match the red anodized screws of the Rotor Riot Alien Frame
  
  
• Naze 32 is a popular board. If I'm not mistaken this is an F1 board and most people have/are migrating to F3 boards. I would consider an F3 board since it has better features and faster calculating speeds. Popular F3 sized flight controllers are the Tornado, LUX, or the SP Racing F3 boards. I personally use the KISS flight controller and matching KISS 24a ESCs which are the best of the best and 100% worth it.
  
  
• The Props are good but you'll want to go with a 5040 or a 5045 for that size quad. 5x4x3 is preferred by many, but this is completely personal preference and tri-blade props will break more often. However, props are really cheap. Gemfam is pretty good, but HQ is higher end. Lumenier just released their own line of props I'd like to check out. Most Lumenier stuff is really good quality.
  
  
• The best receiver you can get right now is very inexpensive. I wouldn't recommend any other receiver or transmitter combo no matter how you're planning to fly or what you're planning to do. The Taranis X9D Plus and X4R w SBUS are the only TX and RX on the market for FPV worth buying. Anything else is a waste of money and a complete shame. The TX is the last one you'll ever buy no matter how far you go into the hobby and the matching RX is the best money can buy right now and it's only $25.
  
  
• Those ESCs are very, very dated. Not many people use 12a ESCs anymore and if you ever plan on competing you won't get very far with these 12a Afros. At least get the 20A Afros if you're sold on the brand. If there's anywhere on your quad you don't want to go cheap - it's the ESCs, Motors, and Flight controller. For ESCs and Flight controller I recommend nothing but KISS (KISS flight controller and matching KISS 24a ESCs). Some people might diagree, most would argue there's better and cheaper alternatives, but hardly any would contest the fact that KISS is the best. It's what guys like FinalGlide and Steele use.
  
  
• Batteries can be really confusing when you're starting out so I won't fault you there, but these batteries aren't what you're looking for. You want either a 1300mah or 1500mah. Most people consider the 1300mah size the sweet spot. On top of that, you'll want a 3s or 4s depending on how fast you want to go and how much power you want to have. 3s is getting really dated and most people are running 4s these days. The third thing you want to look for is the "C" rating (which isn't dependable anymore because of marketing). You want a battery with a high C rating which means your battery is capable of outputting large amounts of power without catching fire - something you need for FPV. I've never used these, but the Turnigy Nano batteries are a great price. For the price I'm thinking about getting a few and testing them, but I have a feeling this may be one of those situations where a brand is marketing a higher C rating than what the battery can actually output due to the price. However, I could be wrong and I'm sure it's a great battery for anyone starting out. Other high end batteries are the Lumeniers and Tattu.
  
  
• Perfect antennas. These are what I use and you shouldn't use anything else. The next comparable set of antennas are TBS Triumph, but the ImmersionRC antennas have still been tested to be a hair more reliable.
  
  I was in the same boat as you. I only had roughly $700 to spend, and for me, that's a lot of money. I picked out most of the components you did and read reviews, watched videos, and did nothing but learn, learn, learn. After dozens of hours researching and learning new things, what I found is that if I wanted a drone that a) Flew good and b) was fast and c) was responsive - I was going to have to spend more and go quality. The adage "Buy cheap and buy twice" rings true in life and holds doubly true in this hobby. In the end, I decided to go the quality route. I ended up spending ~$475 on my quad and picking up a second job to pay for the TX and goggles. It's ultimately up to you, but if you want to freestyle, go fast, and end up racing. I would strongly recommend not going frugal in regards to your quad. It's what the vast majority of people told me not to do and, even though I spent way more, I'm glad I listened and built a top quality high end quad that's going to last.
  
  My Build:
  
  RotorRiot Alien 5' Frame
  
  KISS FC & KISS ESCs
  
  EMAX 2205 2300KV (aka Red Bottoms)
  
  TBS Unify Pro HV
  
  HS1177 camera
  
  ImmersionRC Spironet Antennas
  
  HQ 5x4x3 Props
  
  
  Taranis X9D Transmitter and matching X4R Receiver
  

I'd suggest you find your local hobby shops, find out what they carry for brands (so you can get parts on short notice when they break, and they will break constantly with newbies using them) and then go in that direction.

I sell these things everyday, and the marketing of every brand will tell you that their stuff is indestructible. They all lie. I can and have seen everything break. Especially those who trumpet their indestructibility the most..

That being said...

For drones, this thing https://www.amazon.com/WLToys-Quadcopter-Battle-Onboard-Channel/dp/B00AZEALUK is nearly indestructible. I've sold this under another brands name at my shop and it was the best product in our 40+ year history. I would let people I didn't know the ability of use it in our back room and fly with no worries, we could not kill it. This has about a 12" span from motor to motor that helps it stabilize while people are using it. The tiny quads are definitely fun, but tend to be too twitchy for newbies.

Airplanes, the Hobbyzone Champ is nearly bombproof. Its light and made of good foam that can handle a lot of crashes. If it ever does break, just tape it back together with some scotch tape and toothpicks. It's a fantastically simple plane to fly. Just throttle, rudder and elevator. All ya need to fly. It's got a smaller controller with it which is perfect for kids to use. Heartily recommended. https://www.amazon.com/HobbyZone-HBZ4900-Champ-RTF-Airplane/dp/B003DZ35GK/ref=sr_1_2?s=toys-and-games&ie=UTF8&qid=1525570176&sr=1-2&keywords=hobbyzone+champ+rtf That price is silly, at our shop we sell them at 89.99.

Cars, the ECX Brand cars seem fairly durable from a new driver perspective. And Redcat Racing cars seem pretty well built as well. Stick with cars that are slower, slower cars have less potential to break. They will still break, but less often than faster, sexier cars. Traxxas stuff can be good as well, but I'd suggest stocking up on their replacement motors for their brushed trucks. Their recent batch of motors have been weak and not as good as they should be. I would definitely suggest crawlers instead of fast cars. Crawlers, especially within a camp setting, would be AWESOME fun! https://www.amazon.com/Redcat-Racing-Everest-10-Waterproof-Electronics/dp/B00O9MSR78 We sell this one and have had awesome luck with it.

Stock up on the batteries and definitely invest in a charger for them other than the slow-poke one that comes with it. If you are going to be looking to maximise the runtime, you aught to check out lipo batteries. They get a bad reputation, but if you set the cars up right and charge them up properly, there are rarely issues with them. (Always charge them in a lipo bag, and store them in some sort of protective container. I'd suggest real terra cotta pots as they can handle the fire if they decide to go up.)

Boats, don't even try. They are the most needy of r/C equipment. We have neared the time when selling boats at our shop is a thing. Nobody's boats last worth a damn anymore.

I wish I knew what area you were in, I'd love to work with you and get you guys going!

Good luck! if you have any questions don't hesitate to contact me. I've been at this for `over 18 years and would love to help out however I can!

Late reply, but here are my thoughts on this.

Basically any RC helicopter can be easily controlled via arduino. The trick is either taking apart the included controller as you suggested and simply wiring the connections to the sticks to a breadboard or something. The sticks are basically just potentiometers.

The other way you could do it would be to find an RF shield or something so the arduino can just output on the correct frequency. I haven't been into RC as a serious hobby for a while (I'm talking like almost 20 years, since I was a teenager, so things have probably changed a lot), but I remember being able to go out and buy various crystals at my hobby shop so that you could easily swap what frequencies the controllers/receivers worked on. This was important at events where there might be 10 people all flying at the same time (just pop out your crystals if someone else is on that frequency and replace it with a different one). I'm sure there must be an RF transmitter arduino shield out there that works on this principle. Maybe start researching how people control robots, like the ones that play soccer and stuff.

As far as recommendations go, would you be interested in a quadcopter? The Hubsan X4 is a WICKED fun tiny quadcopter. It's fast, easy to control, etc, etc. It even has swappable batteries so you don't have to wait 20 minutes after every 5 minute flight to go again. Heck, I'd recommend you get one of those for your friend even if it can't be connected to arduino just because it's super fun LOL.

Good luck!

EDIT: BTW - when I said that the X4 is "easy to control" that is, of course, relative. It will require practice. Your friend will probably need to get familiar with flying anything you buy manually before trying to control it via programming, so what I mean is that it's a great quadcopter to learn on. It's durable, replacement parts are cheap (definitely get 3-4 extra sets of blades, a crash repair kit, extra batteries, and blade guards if you can find them), and most of all it's so fun and the learning curve so gentle that your friend will not lose interest or get frustrated. An added bonus is that it's also fairly basic (no fancy built in electronics) so it's definitely hackable with the right skills.

Responding to your comments mostly... sorry for the wall of broken up text..

Attaching a gopro is more about the thrust of the quad than the strength of the carbon fiber. I would guess you could attach one to either build.

They will both likely be "overpowered" for you, but yea you'll grow into it.

I would argue the Racerstar ESCs are also more reliable than the Eachines.

If that's the matek with the OSD that shows your battery voltage, it's a great PDB (around $13 right now I think).

Haven't used an F4 board yet, but recently upgraded to the SP racing f3 and I sure do like it.

Props are cheap anyways and you'll be buying more at some point.

The Monster FPV cam should work great for you, there's a $25 clone of the HS1177 on banggood that would also work well.

Your vTx looks good. Make sure your antenna match the vtx port (sma or rp-sma) and check whether you need male or female.

YES get the 65C batteries. Though that rating isn't held to a standard for marketing them, you'll want some nice high-C, 4S batteries. I suggest both these Tattu 4S 1300mah batteries on amazon for around $25 (the price changes), and those infinity graphene 4s batteries on banggood (though it looks like maybe they took them off their site?). Get a few batteries, you're not going to want to have to charge every 5 min of flight you get.

I hear great things about the IMAX B6 charger here, but I personally use this Charsoon Antimatter 250W charger and love it. I grabbed a nice balance/parallel board for it and can charge 4 batteries in about 45 minutes. Just get one that people haven't had many problems with, and learn to safely charge lipos. Otherwise, there's a fire risk.

I have both the EV800s and the VR D2s. Got them for the same price (~$50) and like the VR D2s a bit better. But really, the EV800s are great. Again, make sure you get the correct antenna upgrades.

If you'll want to be flying a lot right away, maybe try to get 4 batteries. Otherwise I'd start with 2 if that's all you can afford, and get more later.

Ideas I've had or seen in the thread thus far:

• a nice T-shirt from a site like Glennz, shirt.woot, Threadless, Sir Mitchell (they also offer prints and give 10% discount if you use the code IHEARTREDDIT at the checkout), etc...
  
• A video game such as Black Ops, Halo: Reach, Supreme Commander, and so on... Maybe buy a game that's on someone's Steam wishlist, or you could opt for an indie game, such as Cave Story which has recently been released on Wii, or maybe something on XBLA
  
• movie gift tickets to a new movie coming out near the holidays, of course only if the target giftee hasn't seen it already. You need to ensure you get the best seats in the house and make sure you add in 3D if you can, I'd recommend going to see Tron: Legacy this year
  
• An e-reader such as a Kindle or a Sony eReader
  
• A home theatre system
  
• A new phone such as an iPhone 4, Android phone, Windows Phone, etc...
  
• A nice DVD boxset of a TV series such as House, Lost, Arrested Development, Scrubs, Peep Show, Futurama, etc... Comedies will likely work best and allow for some good group viewings
  
• DVD blockbuster movies, such as Inception, Up, and so on... These will also allow for group viewings and again extra points for comedies
  
• A donation to a charity, such as Child's Play, Kiva, the Human Fund, Heifer International, etc... so you can spread the wealth to those who are less fortunate than us
  
• A digital camera such as the Canon 60D DSLR Camera
  
• A desktop, laptop or tablet PC such as a Notion Ink Adams, a MacBook Pro, a Windows 7 PC or an Apple iPad
  
• A personal media player such as an Archos 7, an iPod Touch, etc...
  
• A Fleshlight for those lonely nights when only the best will do
  
• A board game, such as Settlers of Catan, a rare hockey card game, a customer jigsaw puzzle, etc...
  
• Music in the form of CDs, digital download vouchers, etc...
  
• An experience such as a day of skydiving, a holiday, dinner at a nice restaurant, etc...
  
• A games console such as a Xbox 360 Elite, or perhaps something a little more retro such as an N64
  
• A book/series of books such as A Short History of Almost Everything, the Wheel of Time series, Burning Chrome by William Gibson (short stories), etc...
  
• 2TB external hard-drive
  
• Odd/novelty gifts such as the Mighty Wallet, Magic Flight Launch Box, a water pitcher/wine decanter, a pen that writes in metal, a plasma ball, any gift from this site, any gift from this site, a photon microlight, an RC helicopter, an iPhone/iPad controlled helicopter, a Zip-It Clean, a high tech boom box, a hologram generator, an OCR scanner pen if it exists yet, keychain lights/illuminators, Batteries, Lego Creator XXL pack with 1600 bricks, Office Supplies, Home Brewery Kit, etc...
  
• Clothes such as a Windcheater Superdry Jacket, gloves, hats, socks (extra points for winter socks), anything from here, etc...
  
• Employment in some form
  
• Something edible such as a large food hamper, box of sweets, the Batter Blaster, etc...
  
• A vehicle such as a car, bike, etc...
  
• Robosan 5000
  
• Sporting goods such as a new ski mask, golf clubs, a bowling ball, etc...
  
• A musical instrument such as a guitar, drum set, etc...
  
• Something sciency such as a refractometer, a telescope, a Klein Bottle, a brain computer interface, etc...
  
• A subscription to a service such as Netflix, the giftee's favourite magazine, etc...
  
• Love

I got an Eachine 250 racer about a month ago. It has been a lot of fun, but there are a lot of details. My next racer will probably be a smaller/lighter 180 frame.

For FPV goggles I have three ideas. One, is get the status quo Fatshark goggles at whatever level you can afford. Two, get the HeadPlay HD goggles I got. Three, get the Avegant Glyph, which has the really nice feature of letting you pop them up and down without a band. I do really like my HeadPlay HDs, but they are big and bulky. I haven't perfected how to adjust the straps to get them to stay on my head well.

Arms, managed to break one without breaking a prop.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B016Y5U1JO/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Capacitors, they pop off very easily. I lost a capacitor at the same time I broke an arm. Or a hot glue gun, I Highly recommend putting hot glue over the caps next to each arm to help avoid the loss in the first place. You want a low temperature hot glue gun to not melt any plastic or traces. I consider the capacitor issue a design defect, but you can work around it with hot glue. The original revision seems to have lacked the capacitors, from pictures I have seen online.

Capacitors for Eachine 250 racer:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00W8YYMZA/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Youtube video exampling how to solder them:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sLYVZUpL0K0

Get a Taranis X9D Plus. It is a great transmitter. Also get a X4R-SB receiver, and use SBUS. The D4R won't let you control the lights too, because it can't do PPM and PWM at the same time. You can control them with the X4R-SB, SBUS+PWM. SBUS has great latency, 5-10ms. I was recently talking to a sponsored racer who told me that PPM, which is supposed to be 27ms with the D4R, is really more like 100ms. It averages the four last frames together. This link includes a case and X8R, which I think will work as well as the X4R, but you should do the research. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B014IYSXL6/ref=mp_s_a_1_5

To do SBUS+PWM, requires a special bind procedure. You want channels 1-8 as SBUS, and 9+ as PWM. The most relevant part is "jump S1&S3: SBUS, 9, 10, 11 or jump S2&S3: SBUS, 9, 10, 11 (No telemetry)" Here is a link that talks about it.

http://www.frsky-rc.com/BBS/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=6793

Small tie wraps like the ones already on the arms to hold the ESCs. You break an arm, and you will need to replace the tie wrap.

Soldering iron, solder, etc, because you have to desolder the ESC from the motor to replace an arm, and then resolder it.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000BRC2XU/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Qtips and rubbing alcohol for cleaning. Mix the alcohol 50/50 with water. The flying field was muddy after lots of rain.

Carrying case of some kind. You don't want it banged around in transport, and same with the transmitter. It is best to get the X9D with the case, because people price gouge on the case stand alone.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01ABQS7YI/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Batteries, you can burn through them very fast. But watch out for their height. I bought some of the new "Graphene" 4S batteries, and they are really too tall to fit. Some people remove the back LEDs to make battery installation easier.

Battery charging/carrying bags to help with uncontrolled fires started by batteries. I have two, one for charging, and one for carrying.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005HTH78W/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1

A battery charger if you want to use 4S batteries. The included charger is 2S/3S only. I have a Hi-tech X1 which will only charge one battery at a time. You can also get the X4 which will do four at once.

Battery charger for 4S batteries:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005LH3392/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1

XT60 banana plug cable for charging with the above charger:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00XBSBYCG/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1

A V shaped antenna mount to get the receiver antennas up in the air. When over head the carbon fiber body blocks the signal well.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00WV04P62/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1

A voltage monitor so you know to land when your battery voltage is low. The video signal includes the battery voltage as part of the OSD, but I prefer LoS while learning to fly. It lets me keep an eye on where I am in relation to trees. On the other hand I have yet to find a good place to mount a voltage monitor. With the length of the balance cable on batteries you are likely going to need a balance cable extension for 3S and another for 4S.

Voltage monitor:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00EXPPF80/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1

3S balance cable extension:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00XP4IO88/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1

4S balance cable extension:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00JBP1RGG/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Double sided tape to mount things on the top of the body, like the antenna mount and receiver.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B009NP1JQC/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Small x-acto knife to help remove the double sided tape.

Electrical tape to tape down wires for lights and receiver.

Size 2.0 hex wrench for the frame screws. It will be needed to replace arms.

Scale that can measure grams. You want to knowing and control weight.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B010HKEDPK/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Sunglasses to avoid problems seeing on sunny days. Lets say you are flying LoS, and look into the direction of the sun. You can't see the quad well enough to control it, because of glare from the sun.

ESC flashing adapters to change/upgrade the firmware. I am not sure these are the right ones for the ESCs on the Eachine. I think they are, but I haven't tried it yet.

Atmel socket flashing tool:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00V2W467I/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Atmel USB programmer:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0051SRZWC/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1

USB cable to use with transmitters and simulators. It is best to learn the basics in a sim, instead of replacing lots of parts.

USB cable for simulators:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00DFDTU9G/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Old post of mine on learning in a simulator:

https://www.reddit.com/r/Multicopter/comments/3zr8o0/cheap_fpv_acro_simulator_with_real_transmitters/

Be sure to set a fail-safe, which is very easy with the Taranis. I had a fly away with my first Eachine, because of a defective Spektrum DX6 and lack of fail-safe. After that I switched to the Taranis, which doesn't cost much more and has way more capacity.

First of all, I would never attach your cell phone to a helicopter (I doubt many--if any, could even hold it). They make cheap cameras that are made to attach to the bottom of RC helicopters. Go that route :)

Now I just sort've got into this hobby. I know very little but I can give you some advice.

There are 3 types of RC Helicopters:

-Coaxial = two sets of rotor blades (not including tail rotor) EASIEST AND CHEAPEST
-Fixed Pitch = single rotor with fixed blade pitch EASIER AND CHEAPER
-Collective Pitch = single rotor with controllable blade pitch HARDEST AND MOST EXPENSIVE

Those are also listed from easiest to hardest to fly. You can learn to fly a coaxial in like 20-30 minutes if that. Coaxial heli's will easily hover with little to no controller input as the gyro/accelerometer does all the work and dual rotors are inherently stable. A good first coaxial could be the Syma S107 @ $27. Feel free to skip to a fixed pitch heli if you are daring but with the Syma S107 being less than $30 you should still get it.

Fixed pitch heli's are an entirely different animal as I've recently learned. They are much less stable than a coaxial helicopter but not uncontrollable if you are patient and careful. The physics behind a FP heli is much different than a Coax. These heli's are also more powerful (usually) so be very gentle otherwise you'll be replacing parts even more so than you will normally. YOU WILL NEED TO BUY REPLACEMENT PARTS. YOU WILL CRASH. Keep in mind though, it's not completely terrifying :). Don't be afraid to learn. I love and recommend getting a Blade 120 SR @ $160-180. I just got one and I love it. It's so fun. It's so appealing to fly a single rotor heli because it's more realistic and challenging.

Finally, you have Collective Pitch helicopters. These are what the "pros" use. The rotor blades have a variable pitch that allows for very intense and tricky maneuvers. These are sometimes called 3D helicopters because (if you are skilled enough) can fly them upside down or any direction in between while zipping through the air. I don't know too much about them because I'm still learning to fly a fixed pitch heli. Do NOT start with one of these helicopters. The Blade 450 3D @ $470 is a common example of a Collective Pitch 3D helicopter. As you can see they are quite expensive.

Helicopter Cameras: EXAMPLE

TL;DR: Start with a coaxial (Syma S107) to learn. Then move up to a fixed pitch helicopter (Blade 120 SR). Buy lots of replacement parts/training gear/flight sim (optional). Get used to crashing. Don't fly too high at first. Have fun!

Absolute best thing you can buy for that price is a hubsan IMO. They are almost bullet proof, parts are dirt cheap, readily available and they fly amazingly.


--107c+ which is at the top of your range but is quite nice--

[--or the 107L which is on the bottom of your range, no camera--] (http://www.amazon.com/Hubsan-H107L-Channel-2-4GHz-Quadcopter/dp/B00IZC6C8E/ref=sr_1_4?s=toys-and-games&ie=UTF8&qid=1451252092&sr=1-4&keywords=hubsan+x4)

Both fly Awesome and you can buy batteries and multichargers for them to have nearly endless fly time, for extremely cheap. I have drones ranging from a chroma 4k (1200$) to the 107L (50 $). Of all the drones, i think the Hubsans gives the most enjoyment for the money, they fly great and are super durable. Its a totally care free and chill experience, knowing they are so cheap and easy to fix you can enjoy they capabilities guilt free.They can fly extremely fast out doors, are powerful, do flips at speed, banks corners well, and have a good yaw rate. They are quite the little machine.

Get a hubsan or a syma as learner first. Both are cheap, pretty durable and good to learn to fly with. You will crash while learing. It is much better to do this with 30 dollar quad. I personally like the hubsan more. Once you or your dad is comfortable flying you can take a look at getting a bigger quad for a camera. For under 500 with a transmitter your options are somewhat limited I think.

Hobbyking has a phantom clone with an apm flight controller that looks interesting and is in your price range. I have not personally tried it, but I have a pixhawk flight controller running the same software and I like it. It has a lot of advanced capabilities such as waypoint flying. You can pair it with small canon point and shoot camera to have auto picture taking capabilities as well, though that may be a bit advanced for what you are looking for. It's useful for mapping where you want a picture taken every x meters.

You could also get an older phantom for a little less then 500. I have never flown one, but they do seem to be pretty easy to operate.

Whatever you get I would caution you to make sure you (and/or your dad) understand how to operate the quad properly(i.e. calibrating the compass, understanding the GPS lock etc...) and are capable of flying safely in manual mode should the need arise. I believe that many mishaps and fly-aways are the result of people not really understanding their systems and how to properly deal with issues when they arrive.

Also check /r/multicopter as they are a bit more active lots of good info.

I highly suggest picking up something small and cheap that you can mess around with and learn the mechanics of multi flight while you figure everything else out. I personally like the Hubsan x4 and they also have one with a camera on it for a little extra. I should have started with the Hubsan (or other microquad) because I crashed my first build terribly which set me back several months of repair.

For your first bigger multi you could look into the Cinetanks if you're interested in zipping around (link is only to a frame, but they have suggested parts in the right sidebar). I've heard good things about the DJI Flamewheels.

What I've been doing as I get ready for my next multi is to look at the build logs section of the sub wiki. Gives me a good idea of what I'd like and what other people have done too. I also suggest checking the two forums on the sidebar (multi and rcg) The guys at Multirotor pretty much held my hand and walked me through my first build, which I'm really grateful for.

Good luck! And welcome. :D

If you want to learn how to fly drones, start with one that doesn't have FPV. This way you'll know how to fly it if your monitor goes out.

I recently got the "UDI U818A". It's a great learner, easy to fly and takes crashes well. It's around 16 inches diagonally, so a little big for indoors. That's never stopped me though. You can get one on Amazon for around $50 usd.

A smaller option is the "Hubsan X4". I haven't flown this particular quad, but I'm probably going to order one this week. It has great reviews, and is only about 6 inches across diagonally. Great for indoors. Again, Amazon has them for around $50 $30 usd.

I suggest starting with one of these. Get good, then move up to something more expensive with FPV.

Edit: Links and such

UDI U818A $49.23 + Free Shipping

Hubsan X4 H107L (no camera) $33.95

Hubsan X4 H107C (camera) $29.99 + Free Shipping

Do some digging and look for deals. You may be able to find cheaper prices. I got my U818A for $28 + Free Shipping on a Lightning Deal.

The Gens Ace battery I bought is a 2s 5000mah 50c. I'm not a lipo expert but I have had different lipos with different c ratings. Im not sure what impact it has on the battery. But don't worry about it. I would try to get something between 20 and 50c, you should be fine.

And yes, you will need a charger. When I bought my first lipo I almost made the mistake by charging it with the stock wall charger

Here are some links to Amazon. I have owned all these battery's and charger

This is my Gens Ace lipo, just bought it a week ago. Seems fine:

Traxxas 5000mAh 7.4V 2S 50C LiPo Battery Pack by Gens ace https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01JCS7QPC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_ruiTVGqT7plCC

This is my venom lipo. Great brand, just pretty expensive:

Venom 25C 2S 5000mAh 7.4V Hard Case LiPo Battery with Universal Plug (EC3/Deans/Traxxas/Tamiya) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004YNQXGO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_jf7DybTY2S501

This is my charger. Great charger, kinda out dated but works fine:

HiTec 44165 X1 AC Plus Single Port 6 Amp AC/DC Charger (NiCd/NiMH/LiPo) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005LH3392/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_og7DybJFYKT6C

I would also recommend getting a lipo bag. Lipo batteries tend to do catch on fire, but none of mine have. I would still get one just in case. Just out your battery in it when you charge it and store it. Here's the link for one:

Generic CoBean Silver Large Size Lipo Battery Guard Sleeve/Bag for Charge & Storage https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005HTH78W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_4h7DybR76NC3S

Other than that, post when you get your battery and charger so we can help you out on setting everything up. Just make sure you get a 2s. 3s is crazy. Also if your going to be driving on the street, make sure you got a pair of road tires because the battery will tear up your off road tires. Other than that, have fun!

I did not end up getting it, found a different gift.

Another option I forgot to mention is a quadcopter - depending on how you fly them and the level of electronics, they can be easier than a plane, or about the same as a fixed-pitch (simple) helicopter. The micro ones are really cheap (~$50) and fun to play with, though I find them a little boring compared to helis.

I don't know much about boats but yea I did see the self-righting feature of the barbwire. Personally I would hate to have my boat flip over and have to go out into the water to get it. Depends how convenient it is to go into the water though. It's all about your situation. If you're standing on dry land in normal clothes and your boat flips over or somehow dies, I guess you just have to be prepared with a long stick or rope or something to get it out. That's what turns me away from the idea of boats. But if you're in a swimsuit and planning on going into the water anyway, then I guess it wouldn't be a problem.

I guess one more thing I'll say is, what are you looking for in terms of fun? Do you know what you will find amusing? Everyone has their own underlying reasons; I personally fly helis because of the big challenge of controlling them, keeping their orientation in your head and avoiding the ground. Some people like the act of building and the joy of seeing something you built actually work (or not), thus the other comments here about building your own foamie plane. R/C car guys are often into racing others around a track or crawling over rocks, which sounds like it can be challenging.

In terms of helicopters, the starter ones are usually the mCX 2 and the mSR X (wow that's cheap! must be about to announce a new one). Good starter planes are called "trainers", they usually have a high wing and only 3 channels (throttle/elevator/rudder, no aileron), popular two are Champ and Super Cub. For quadcopters, you simply start with a full-featured but micro one, the Syma X1 is most commonly recommended and very cheap. I don't know enough about the cars to recommend. But notice all of these are cheaper than the boats... Granted, they're all smaller than a boat, but when it comes to something flying through the air, smaller and lighter means less likely to break in a crash. Only once you have your orientations down and can keep the micro size in the air, should you graduate to full size. That's not a fact but a commonly accepted opinion. On the other hand, for boats and cars, you basically can't break them unless you try (slam it into a wall, drop it off a cliff, make it go over a huge jump) or of course if something just goes bad on its own, so you can start with the biggest boat or car you can find and be just fine. If you're looking for size from the start, cars and boats are the way to go.

I don't trust myself with any kind of alpha-numeric painting consistency but... water decals are extraordinarily easy! I made a fresh batch last night in fact. Learn from my previous blunders:

-----------------------

Requirements:

decal print paper (Transparent if the decals are dark OR if the mech color is light OR if the design would be difficult to cut around. White paper if the decals have white or light colors OR if the mech is dark OR if the design would be easy to cut around.) Ink printers NOT print the color white and similar tints will be underwhelming!

picture editing software

color printer

decal film

Recommended:

acrylic fixative art spray, matte

decal setting stuff

*decal solution stuff

-----------------------

Steps:

1. Copy/paste stuff off the internet or create custom images in a graphics program. I recommend printing multiple sizes of the same graphic with a size reduction of 75% for each. (When in doubt go smaller than you think you'll need.) Just arrange the images very close together to make good use of the space.
   
   
2. Print out the document with the slick side receiving the ink. Use a test print of normal printer paper to conserve the specialized sheets.
   
   
3. Allow the ink several minutes to dry and then spray the whole thing with 2 coats of acrylic fixative spray. The purpose of this is to give a buffer so that the ink doesn't smear when applying the decal film. 5 minutes per coat ought to do it.
   
   
4. I've tried airbrushing the decal film directly but it gunked up my airbrush. Smear a decent layer of decal film with a fine brush or makeup sponge. 5 minutes between 2 layers ought to do it. Doing this correctly is super important since it keeps the ink from floating off the paper when submerged. Layers of decal film also gives the decal rigidity so it doesn't crumple like a tissue-thin taco when you pull it off the backing. I've gotten some decal paper that is more fragile than the Testors that I linked below. More film resolved my issues.
   
   
5. Now, just use your custom sheets as you would normal waterslide decals. Cut closely around images that are on white decal paper since it will have a white border. If you must use white paper, I'd recommend adding a background color of 50-75% gray so that any border you leave untrimmed will fade into most models better. (You could also make the surrounding color the same as the model it goes on if you're thinking that far ahead.) If you have transparent decals needed for a dark mech, consider painting a white spot in the shape of the decal to be applied.
   
   5a. Place a drop of decal setting stuff on the place the decal will go. This softens the decal and allows it to conform better since the medium is better than water. You'll still have a bit of give when sliding the decal around. Allow this to be visually dry.
   
   5b. Once the decal is perfectly in place, put a drop of decal solution to thoroughly wet it. This causes the decal to fill any irregular sections of the model that you placed it. It will get gummy, stretchy, and unable to move or remove afterwards. You might try this multiple times and use a fine brush to push it into recesses.
   
   5c. After the model is completed, seal the whole thing -including decal- with matte fixative spray or matte varnish that gets applied with a painting brush.
   
   -----------------------
   
   Notable products:
   
   https://www.amazon.com/Testors-Decal-Paper-Clear-Pack/dp/B000BLI6QS/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=testors+decal+paper&qid=1566236237&s=gateway&sr=8-1
   
   https://www.amazon.com/Microscale-MICRO-DECAL-3-Bottle-Combo/dp/B01BALXVQC/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=decal+solution&qid=1566234498&s=gateway&sr=8-4

Haha, nice to teach someone ;)

You have it the wrong way around. This is how it's supposed to look. And if you unsolder the wires, you also save some space, which is pretty nice on small builds. And it looks nicer.

The nice plastic wrapping is probably some kind of heatshrink tubing. Want to heatshrink your own stuff? Get this. You just heat it up with a lighter and it shrinks to half the size. There is no problem if you take the plastic off and leave it without it, but it's more likely to short on something, a bit less water resistant (in case a drop of water lands on it), and it doesn't look as professional ;)

If you want to solder the motors directly to the ESCs (which I recommend, as it's lighter and looks neater), you can heatshrink them with this heatshrink afterwards.

The balance charger connects to the balance plug and (usually) the main plug on the battery. There are some cheap, low-power chargers that only use the balance plug. The balance plug has thinner wires, so it can't handle a high current like the main plug (which also uses a connector that handles higher current). On batteries the size of your battery, the wires will be almost the same size, but on bigger batteries the main wires are usually quite a bit thicker. The higher-power chargers use the main plug for charging/discharging (several amps) and the balance plug for balancing (usually under 2A). You should charge your batteries at around 1C, which is 1A in your case, so you don't really need a higher power charger unless you want to be able to charge several batteries at once or plan on getting something that needs bigger batteries in the future. Also, most of the lower-power chargers only have a fixed current and can't discharge the batteries or show other useful information. Most of the higher-end ones can show you the current charging current, voltage, time since starting, mAh recharged etc, and can also discharge your batteries to around 40% which is the level it's best to store batteries at.

The LiPo alarm plugs into the balance port in order to be able to measure every cell individually. This means you can't over-discharge any cell (for example if one of them is faulty and discharges faster than the others). You unplug it when you're done flying, and connect the balance charger to the same connector when you're charging.

When you want to buy a balance charger, you have a lot of different options, depending on whether you want a really cheap charger (something like this), an OK all-around charger (like this one), a charger that can charge 4 different batteries at once (like this one), or a charger that can charge 40 of the batteries you're using in parallel at once (this one). Also note that some of them only have a DC input, so you need an external power supply for them. You can for example make one out of a server power supply, or you can just buy a ready to use one.

Not exactly the answer you may have been looking for, but I figured I would contribute...I bought something like that from Amazon a while back.
https://www.amazon.com/Hubsan-H107L-Channel-2-4GHz-Quadcopter/dp/B00IZC6C8E/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1474758367&sr=8-3&keywords=hubsan+quadcopter

That's the model I bought, and extra batteries/chargers/parts have been easy to find online and even at hobby specialty shops. This one doesn't have a camera, but there are models that do. Super fun toy, tbh. Pretty sharp learning curve, even on the "beginner" mode that smooths out the flying. Highly encourage getting a propeller guard thing to slap on it especially if you fly indoors.

I also have H107L, and have been super happy with these batteries. They are 380 mAh, which I wanted to try before jumping to 500 mAh. I have been super happy with them. I haven't timed it, but it does feel like I get quite a bit more flying time. But of course, the main thing that makes a difference is having five of them :)

Obviously you'll also want a charger. I was going to get the same combo that /u/jackthecat53 mentioned, but some of the reviews made it sound like the charger wasn't that good. So I got a separate charger, which seems to be doing the job, but it feels super cheap, it turns out.

At any rate, I am super stoked about these batteries, and the way-improved flight time I'm able to get.

Those batteries are a little chunky for a 250. I have some and they are slightly bigger and heavier than my 2200mAh zippy compact but I like to fly 1500 zippy the best on mine. I got the 2206 motors on my h250cf 3k pro and just added 20a esc and 6040 props to it last night. It's a beast! I use that same charger and it's great. I say go with the 99$ kit h250cf pro kit.
I would also not recommended the flysky fs-t6 I was seeing brown outs with it and left negative review on Amazon for the product. I now use a taranis and it really is amazing! Here is my speed run this weekend. I need to tilt my fpv camera so I can go faster and see where I'm going. This isn't all she has by any means. This was warm up before I went tree cruising
RCX H250CF 3K Pro 3/1/15: http://youtu.be/p6pV1zKdQTw

>Thanks for the response! Which 1300mah batteries did you purchase?

>I have a chunk of amazon credit that I'd like to use to get the rest of my stuff (even if it comes at a slight premium), so I plan on getting my prop balancer, charger, etc from there if possible.

>This is the charger

>And I'm considering a few of these batteries

Hmmm. Well, I've really been enjoying my moto 360, but I'm both on android and a huge fucking nerd.

What's your coffee game look like? $200 would get a ton of great coffee gear, especially if you're just getting started.

How about sports? I'm an avid climber, so maybe you could get a punch-pass, climbing shoes, and a chalk bag and hit up a local climbing gym.

Let's talk toys, though. Quadrotors are a fucking BLAST to play with, and there's a million of them. I have this Estes ProtoNano and this Hubsan Quadrotor. They're both amazingly fun, and not too expensive.

What else are you interested in?

Seems like everyone is assuming he wants a kit and to build it himself, but I don't see that you said that. So, is that the case?

Will this be his first multicopter? If so, I would recommend something that is ready to fly (RTF) right out of the box. There are lots of good options, but I really enjoy my Hubsan x4 simply because how easy it is to get replacement parts. The price and reliability are nice as well ;)

You can put him together a nice "kit" with a hard case, spare parts, extra batteries for about $175 $135 on Amazon. It will be RTF, but also give him room to learn about the platform and repair mistakes.

EDIT: Actually a little cheaper... if he has not flow before, this is a fun, cheap christmas present.

Complete Starter Kit for Hubsan x4 | ------------
---|---
Hubsan H107C | $54.00 |
Carrying Case | $24.99 |
Crash Kit | $17.50 |
5 Extra Batteries | $18.39 |
Battery Charger | $6.36 |
Prop Guard | $2.73 |
------------|------------
Total | $123.97

Amazon is great especially if you get fast shipping. Local hobby shops near you would also sell batteries, but they would be more expensive. However honestly, a local hobby shop most likely would sell batteries with banana plugs, and I don't think pre-made adapters that go from banana plug to XT30 exist premade, while you can easily find XT60-XT30 adapters. You will also need to buy a balance charger to charge your new batteries. These chargers make sure all the cells in your batteries are charged to equal voltages, which is important in terms of safety and increasing the longevity of your batteries. I ordered my own batteries and charger from Amazon and they arrived in a couple of days, so if you're comfortable with using Amazon there's nothing wrong with the batteries there. Heres an example of one https://www.amazon.com/Tattu-Battery-1300mAh-11-1V-Airplane/dp/B013I9RLVK/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1485569927&sr=8-2&keywords=3s+1300mah

No worries! I actually have the Syma x1, the Hubsan x4, and the Nano QX so I've had plenty of first hand experience on all 3 of the super popular ones.

The specific Syma x1 I have is this:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00906PKQ4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Its the cheapest of the 3 and has the longest flight time. However this means it has the longest charge time (about 90 minutes for around 20+ minutes of flight)

The Nano will fly for around 10+ minutes and charges in around 35 minutes.

The Hubsan takes around 45 minutes to charge and flies for about 6~7 minutes depending on if you have the guard attached.

Of the 3 the Syma is the easiest to fly, and the best for a total beginner to learn on. However the Syma does not have blade guards, but the blades themselves are very sturdy (in about 50 flights and many crashes from various heights onto various surfaces I have yet to break a single propeller)

The Nano is my favorite hands down, best bang for your buck if you can afford the $70~100 price range. However due to its incredible agility it would be rather hard to learn on and would crash a lot. I've had all 3 for months and I still can't fly the Nano in agility mode indoors. Seriously, that sucker can move. The Hubsan is kinda a happy medium between the Syma and Nano in nearly every aspect. Personally its my least favorite of the 3, but it is still a very solid beginner copter. The Hubsan isn't bad by any means, its just that the other two are better in my opinion. The Hubsan is the heaviest of the 3 despite it being the smallest. Also the Hubsan has the shortest flight time, but a longer charge time than the Nano.

Also, very important - if you get a Hubsan DO NOT GET THE CAMERA upgraded version. The camera is really bad, it doesn't come with a micro SD card, any video playback will include the lovely sound of the motors (they are very loud in flight) as performed by the world's worst microphone at max volume, and the camera is always on (even with no card inserted) so it drains the battery faster than the non camera version. (not to mention the added weight)

If I had some spare cash I would definitely buy a second Nano, they are that awesome once you know how to fly. I would also probably buy another Syma because the quality for the cost is fantastic. Honestly I would buy a second Syma x1 instead of an extra battery for the first one. Its like $10~15 for an extra battery kit, I personally would rather just have 2 copters for 30 bucks instead of just one with an extra battery. (you can cannibalize one if the other breaks, plus that gives you 2 chargers, 2 controllers, 2 batteries, and a total of 16 propellers to use. Not to mention a total of 8 motors and 2 flight boards) So if you plan on crashing a lot just spring for a second one instead of a repair kit.

I know everything I said about the Hubsan seems negative, but its still a very good starter copter at a very reasonable price. Having used one as much as I have, I would absolutely buy it again (minus the damn camera) if I ever had a reason to. That being said I should warn you, my Hubsan - and possibly all Hubsans, are out for blood and are face seeking. I've gotten some fairly bad cuts and bruises from mine. Do yourself a favor and just keep away from the flip button until you have either a lot of room / experience, or some sort of bullet proof shield to hide behind.

If you have any other questions about copters or learning to fly I would be more than happy to try and answer them. I know that finding specific information about this stuff can be kinda hard or confusing at times.

Here are links to the other two quads I talked about:

Hubsan x4 - http://www.amazon.com/Hubsan-H107L-Mini-RTF-Quadcopter/dp/B00IZC6C8E/ref=pd_sim_sbs_t_1?ie=UTF8&refRID=197PJ9NDQ5JDVB73REBF

Nano QX - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CYHZN8G/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I assume you don't have an electrical engineering background and just want something you can buy?

Note: Below is not guaranteed to be perfects/correct, just some cursory research for you because I was in the mood.

Parrot AR Drone 2.0 uses a 2000mAh 11.1v (3S) LiPo.

It looks like the Power Pot outputs 5V to USB and there are usb LiPo chargers, but they look like they're all only for 3.7v (1S) cells.

I don't know what kind of "solar batteries" you have. If the solar bits can output at 11-18V, you could combine it with something like this to charge the LiPo. If not, you can also purchase and bring a panel with you that can output at that range.

Battery is 22.2Watt-hours.

Looking at Kathmandu, you get ~5.37kWh/m²/day. With the 14W version of the linked panel, assuming 50% charge efficiency on a bright and sunny day pointed right at the sun, you'd get ~37Wh/day. Assuming it's spread across 12 hours of daylight evenly and you track the sun (alright this is a bit of a BS assumption, but insolation values are usually a little low so we'll hope it evens out) you'd be able to charge a battery in about 7.2 hours. Shell out for the 28W version and you'd be able to do it in ~3.6 hours.

The charger and panel linked aren't necessarily the best or best value, just the first 2 I found. Don't hold me to my calculations, they could be completely wrong but can give you a rough idea.

Another consideration, depending on the length of your trip. If you get the 28W version and the charger linked, you're spending about $200 and you can get maybe 2 fully charged flights/day. It looks like spare batteries can be had for ~$20 and LiPos self-discharge at <5%/month. You could buy 10 at the same price and not have to worry about charging.

If you go with this approach, buy and test it out early.

Well that mostly depends on budget. I got this Eachine Wizard x220 a few days ago, but I got the bind & fly version since I already have a radio. This thing is GREAT, my main quad I built about a month ago needs to be tuned and I didn't have time to today so I flew this instead for all of my flights and it is SHARP. The RTF version (the one I linked) comes with everything you need to fly but you'd also need goggles like FatSharks if you're willing to spend a lot on goggles or Eachine VR007's if you want something cheaper to start out on FPV with. I started with the Eachine's and they work fine, but after awhile the size will start to get annoying with no DVR and some other bells and whistles FatSharks have (I just got FatSharks a couple days ago and they're great!). And of course you would need a camera. The first GoPro session does 1080p60fps and it's only $200 so you'd be under $500. I'm not 100% sure this comes with a battery too though so you'd want a few extra 4S 1300mAh batteries and a charger for them (lot's of different options here so these are the batteries I use and here is the charger I use ). Just make sure you get batteries with an "XT60" connector and your charger has an XT60 charging cable. Here's a great video made by a fellow r/Multicopter user on how to safely charge LiPo batteries. They are no joke!

Anyway this is a GREAT quad to start with, the only downside to it IMO is that it uses the "FlySky" radio transmitter and receiver which is not that great. I started out with a different version of the one this has and my first quad lost signal and smashed face first into concrete from over 50 feet up. Luckily most components on these are tough as nails so it's a cheap fix, I just had to replace a GoPro lens (GET LENS PROTECTORS!) and a couple small parts. Anyway, I believe the radio in this one is a newer version that has had way less problems than mine, so if you get it maybe just range test low and over grass or something before going crazy?

If you want to watch a review of this quad, here's a great review made by u/uavfutures (same guy that did the LiPo video), who convinced me to buy it and I wasn't disappointed.

One more thing...have you ever flown a quad before or flown FPV? If not you may want to pick up a Blade Inductrix FPV and some goggles to get the basic idea down before you spend money on something you don't know how to fly. If you have any more questions let me know!

Firstly, I'd consider getting the GAN 356 X because money isn't a problem, as you said. Of course, if you have a reason for getting the 354 M (such as small hands), go ahead, but if you do not, then you should get the GAN 356 X.

Moreover, I simply do not believe that getting Cosmic or Supernova or whatever The Cubicle offers is ever worth it unless you do not have the time to set up the cube yourself. My reasoning is that all lube setups are temporary, and the lube will eventually dry out. With all of the money that you spend for someone else to set up your cube, you could easily buy lube for yourself that'll last you much, much longer. For example, check out this Traxxas 50K offer on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Traxxas-5137-Differential-Oil-Weight/dp/B000BOLVFI

50K is widely used as both a core lube and a piece lube (although, it's not that good of a piece lube imo), and this huge bottle costs less than $10. Adding this lube into your cube is extremely trivial as well, so I see no reason to let other people set up your cube, especially because it costs so much.

If you want a good piece lube, I'd recommend Angstrom Gravitas and Angstrom Dignitas ($10 as a bundle) from The Cubicle. Gravitas is a super long-lasting lube, and the combination of these two lubes in my Valk 3 M is the best lube setup I've ever tried on it.

TL;DR There is no need to pay so much for someone else to set up your cube (lube is temporary anyway) when you can just buy a whole bunch of lube and set up your cube yourself for however long you'll use it for.

This is the FlySky one on Amazon for only 4 bucks more with free shipping.

I personally don't have very large hands and really enjoy mine. I have both the FS-i6 (which is the same as the tgy-i6) and the 9x and I always want to fly with the i6.

It has a solid build quality and can use PPM (only one cable from the rx to fc for less clutter) if you buy this Rx to use with it.

I personally think that the i6 is a really great radio. That being said however, it seems like everyone else likes the 9x, so you may just want to get that.

If you do happen to get the i6 and have some questions I would totally be willing to help out if I can! Cheers.

> I ended up with a bunch of 550mah 3S batteries: can I use them to tinker with this build?

I suspect you would get a minute of lackluster performance from those batteries on a 5" quad. However, those are great bats for a 2" build. So save them.

> Battery options once I'm 100% ready to fly?

Amazon sells Tattu and Infinity Graphene 1300 mAh 4S batteries that would work well with your rig. Ensure you get a high C rating (60+).

> Prop options?

Those DAL props are great. Other options are the HQ 5x4.3x3 props.

> Extra wires?

I have never needed to buy extra wires. You'll collect plenty from parts you buy.

> I feel much more comfortable dealing with this kind of merchant.

There are other reputable merchants with US stock at competitive prices. Examples are heli-nation.com, getfpv.com, racedayquads.com, etc. The amazon/ebay merchants are mostly just buying from the overseas guys and upping the price. But I understand the sentiment.

As far as checking your build. You'll probably need to buy an XT60 connector and wire to solder to the FC/PDB (Like these). You'll need need some battery straps (Like these). You'll need a vtx antenna (rec: Foxeer).

Do you have a battery charger?

Do you have FPV goggles?

I bought myself an RC helicopter for Christmas this year. I'm 29.

I was shopping online when I stumbled across one for ~$20. It got pretty bad reviews, but I found one on amazon that had great reviews, was good for indoors, and was only ~$35.

Was initially going to get it for a roommate, but decided to get them more practical gifts. I still wanted to play with that helicopter though, so I added it on as a gift to myself. Arrived yesterday, but I'm waiting until Saturday to open it. =D

http://www.amazon.com/Syma-S107-Gyroscope-Controlled-Helicopter/dp/8499000606

This is going to sound completely random but hear me out.

Remote Control Helicopter. Just a little indoor one.

If likes video games I know he likes controllers, keyboards and electronic stuff.

I got one last year from my sister as kind of a joke gift. Jokes on her, I maybe 27 and too old for toys, but I love it so much I broke it when it got out of control and fell in my dogs water dish and now have another 6 various models.

If you consider it, the Syma S107 is probably the best and most affordable starter. Just keep it away from water.

Assuming you saw one on the set for some film stuff, I assume you're interested in a more AP-style rig like a DJI product. Most of the people here are more interested in a DIY "racing/freestyle" FPV miniquad, a smaller, mostly carbon fibre build that's intended to be fast, responsive, and an immersive flying experience. So, your first decision is whether you're after a more casual photography rig or a quicker, racing quad.

In either case, most of the other comments seem to say "buy something small and cheap and start learning", and I'll second that advice. Most of us here fly "FPV", wearing goggles that show us what a small camera on board broadcast. Before you can do that though, you need to learn the basics of flight, ideally "line of sight", without the goggles.

The Hubsan gets recommended a lot (H107L) because it was one of the best, cheap quads out there. They're $32 on Amazon and are a good starting point. Make sure to grab some extra propellers and a couple more batteries, flight time is about 5 minute of casual hovering.

For a little less though, I cannot recommend the Eachine H8 Mini enough. It's smaller, a little more responsive, and just as durable. Once you're more familiar with the basics of flight, too, you can try out "rate" (manual, no auto-leveling) mode with this one too for about $10 and some time flashing firmware.

From there, once you get used to the basics of control, you can start adding in cameras and goggles and practicing FPV. Eventually, you can work your way up to a larger miniquad.

And always feel free to ask more questions if you have them!

</rant>

These are neat novelty, but personally i think getting him a hubson x4 would be better, its not a fixed wing, but there super fun and a great intro rc quad copter. http://www.amazon.com/Hubsan-H107L-Channel-2-4GHz-Quadcopter/dp/B00IZC6C8E

You will lose a little bit of flight time with the stock battery and motors. The carbon frame is a tad bit heavier than the plastic.

I recommend these batteries now that you have the room and these props... I get around 12-13 minutes of actual flight time with that setup. No, not hover time... moderately aggressive flight time.

Be aware that your lift to weight ratio is now a bit smaller, and if you use the stock flight controller the craft will want to "dig" when you tilt forward to pick up speed quickly. With higher power motors this will likely not be as big an issue. Don't get me wrong though, it still flies like a beast, but it requires more attention than the original symmetrical layout.

Also, the LEDs are now extremely difficult to use for orientation. Consider purchasing some bigger ones to mount on the corners.

Good luck!

Edit: Here's mine with only new frame, battery, and props: http://imgur.com/bx9QRQg

Edit 2: The foil tape is a temporary measure to protect the original motor wires, which were too short to be secured to the body/arms. The new motors have much longer wires and will be secured properly while soldering in.

Hubsan x4 mini quadcopter. Super fun, amazing stability and as much range as you could want for something this size. It also takes a licking and bounces back. When it doesn't, it's pretty easy to fix. A great gateway model for the whole "drone" hobby. There's also a version with a camera to take movies, and an FPV model. For under $40 it's a great deal if you're are at all interested in the hobby.

http://www.amazon.com/Hubsan-H107L-Mini-RTF-Quadcopter/dp/B00IZC6C8E/ref=sr_1_1?s=toys-and-games&ie=UTF8&qid=undefined&sr=1-1&keywords=hubsan+x4

I'm not sure if there's a consumer grade quad out there that will be able to do that. Your best chance to keep things cheap (low cost, not low quality) and efficient is a custom build. From the components I have off the top of my head, I'm fairly sure you can do it for $1000 (with FPV equipment, including receiver , except for the screen/goggles). With some careful thought and a little optimizing, you could probably get it down. What's going to end up costing the most will be the high efficiency motors, and the high power batteries.

If you want to start flying quads, here's the same advice you'd get anywhere else on this subreddit, put down about $50 on a Hubsan X4. It'll take the crashes while you're learning so a more expensive quad doesn't have to. It's pretty durable so you won't have to worry about breaking it either.

Both can be great cubes. What is your preference? The Shuang Ren is a much dryer, faster feeling cube, while the AoLong is a smooth, clicky feeling puzzle. Performance wise, the AoLong is a better cube, but a Shuang Ren is better for people who prefer a cube that feels slightly more stable.

Oh, and for lube, Traxxas 50k weight Differential oil. Buy a syringe like this one and use it to apply the lube. Hope I helped!



Edit: You may want to visit this page to consider other possible options. There's a world of cubes out there.

I bought this: Traxxis 6AMP but I'm pretty sure this is the same thing, just rebranded and cheaper: HiTec 6AMP

Its got a decent range for batteries (2cell - 6cell), charges different batteries other than LiPo and has a nice read out as well as a wall plug and car battery leads for field charging.

Edit: after looking at that turnigy accucell, it looks like I got hosed pretty good :/

Build Pics

Setup details:Monitor: Acer KG271USpeakers: Logitech z506KB: Tecware Phantom w 3rd party keycapsMouse: Razer Mamba Elite & Razer scarab mousepadCase: SM550

Build Details:
MB: Asus ROG Strix B450-i gaming
CPU: R7 3700x
CPU cooler: Cryorig C7G + NF-A9x14
Ram: Corsair Vengeance RGB 3200Mhz CL16
PSU: Corsair SF750 Plat
GPU: EVGA RTX 2080 Gaming XC
Additional Case Fans: 2x Be Quiet! Silent Wings 3 Pwm

Notes:

1. Inserting MB before fans is easier in the SM550 (contrary to the manual)
   
2. 2x Silent Wings 3 were from previous build but they are waaay louder than the small NF-A9x14
   
3. The motherboard forces fans to go to 100% at 75 degrees, anyway to circumvent this?
   
4. Wifi/ BT antenna on the asus b450-i is kinda ugly, need suggestions for replacements
   
5. 3700x idles at ~50 and ramp up to 70-80 in games. Voltage jumps around 0.9-1.4 in idle but stays above 1.4 while gaming. Before disabling iCUE, Razer Chroma SDK, Razer Synapse and ASUS Aura sync, voltages were contantly 1.4v and up in idle
   
6. Sliger gives an option for:- internal 20pin- USB A and USB C- internal 20pin to USB A and internal type L to USB CGo for the former with an AMD mobo cos they dont have the internal type L socket for the individual type C port like on Intel mobos. Mine got shiped with the latter so I cant use my front type c port :( Need the new silverstone CP14 connected for the USB C port on the front panel or the new front panel IO for it to be useful
   
7. Didn’t add the GPU and supp mobo cables into pslate customs order! Have to wait till he takes orders again
   
   Questions:
   
   
8. Any suggestions on Wifi/BT replacements for this mobo?
   
   1. Currently looking at this antenna from huacam and this unbranded antenna
      
9. Any way to raise the thermal cap of the mobo to more than 75 degrees to stop fans ramping up so often?
   
   1. Stop gap measure is to set case fans to motherboard temperature, but under gaming loads CPU goes up to 80 degrees yikes gonna play more with fan curve
      
   2. Using noctua silent fan adapter works to cap max volume but ramping up is still an issue
      
   3. Noctua fan controller looks abit too big to fit into the case and cablemanagement would be quite messy
      
   4. Tried installing AI suite III and it crashed my com =/ don't really want to pay for software like argus monitor either
      
10. Are the temps and voltages for the CPU normal? Been getting conflicting/ confusing answers on the r/AMD threads
    
    1. TLDR they are normal
       
    2. Tried reducing PPT but temps and voltages are still similar, will look more into it
       
11. Will Sliger cases sell their internal 20pin to USB A and USB C header separately? (SOLVED)
    
    1. They do but will prioritize sending out current case orders first
       
       Overall pretty happy with the build quality and how the theme turned out. Black/gray with orange highlights :) Eagerly waiting the NF-A12x25 and NF-A9x14 chromax fans!!! (If we DO get them lol)
       
       (edit: added more info)(edit 2: added responses and findings)

Couple questions about lube

Seems the general consensus is to go with the:

https://www.amazon.com/Traxxas-5137-Differential-Oil-Weight/dp/B000BOLVFI/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?keywords=traxass+50k&qid=1564327271&s=gateway&sprefix=traxass+50&sr=8-2

Is there anything else you would recommend that would go hand and hand with this?

Is Traxass50k ok for internals and plastic?

Will I need some type of applicator, or will the built in bottle dispenser be sufficient?

Any help is appreciated, thanks guys

If you don't wanna buy the Traxxas 50k at a hobby store you can get a 2oz bottle (60cc) for about $7 which is cheap.

https://www.amazon.com/Traxxas-5137-Differential-Oil-Weight/dp/B000BOLVFI

Since you have all the different "weights" I can tell you will need to test them to see which one matches your style, then after that naturally you will be narrowed down to a few lubricants maybe even 2-3, as you will see what fits or doesn't. Traxxas lubricants are cheap and the standard bottle is 60cc for about $7 on Amazon and $5 to a online hobby store I use. However cubicle lubricants are still useful but if you need a wallet friendly alternative then Traxxas is the way to go. However I always recommend a bottle of 50k around you it's pretty much universal. Alot of people just lube the core of their cube with 50k, lube 4x4's with 50k (when you break it in it feels amazing), and 2x2's.

30k, and 50k and some thin weights is all you ever honestly need and since your getting Lubicle Speedy, you won't need 10k, but yea. Goodluck

That's my 2 cents.

Basically, it is capable of doing more things than other similarly priced helicopters. It is trickier to fly, but that's because it is doing less of the flying for you.

On something like the S107 (or other coaxial helicopters), if you stop giving it any inputs, it'll level itself out and just kind of sit there. The V911 (and other single rotor helicopters) will do less of that for you, so you have to learn more control. It'll help prepare you better for flying larger helicopters and (IMO anyways) will keep your interest longer because there's more you can do with it.

I personally went from the S107 to a Blade MSR-X, but the blade is probably more than you're willing to spend ($90). If this is your absolute first helicopter, the S107 (http://amzn.com/8499000606 for example) may not be a bad idea - it's less than $20 and will let you start learning how to deal with orientation.

Do yourself a favor and master this before diving into building a quadcopter. The hubsan is the best mini quad for the money hands down. Do not bother with the cheerson cx-10, it has unreliable signal in my experience even at very close range among other cons.

I have a hard time believing you'll be able to squeeze a custom build with transmission to your phone out of $300 even if you have a radio controller already.

My advice is maybe a phantom 2 or 3 for ~$500. It will route video straight to the DJI app in your phone. A custom quadcopter is going to be a bit more tricky to get onto your phone and you're more likely to be sending it into FPV goggles.

If you don't go the DJI route you will have to buy an RC controller/vrx/battery charger/figure out a way to view the video feed/etc. The cost can really get out of hand. I bought an Immersion RC Vortex after outgrowing the hubsan and after all the basics I needed I had spent well over $1000.

All in all, until you have 2x/3x as much of a budget go with the hubsan. Good luck!

The charge time really isn't all that bad. It'll charge back up in 10-15 minutes. I really thought it'd bother me but I'm totally okay with it. This is the perfect starter copter to learn how to fly these things.

If it's really a deal breaker and you're okay with spending more, one of the cheapest way you're going to get significantly improved flight time would probably be a Hubsan X4, a 5 pack of batteries, a simple charger, and a prop guard for about $70 before tax.

I'd call that step 2 in the hobby though and would absolutely recommend the Cheerson CX-10 as step 1.

Mom: gift card to Michael's or a nearby crafts store, or maybe some beads and string for her to create some jewelry?

Pops: remote controlled helicopter

Sister: Apples to Apples, Cards Against Humanity, Shot Glass Roulette Drinking Game or some similar entertainment piece.

BIL: Microbrew kit? Check out www.odditymall.com for really obscure stuff.

Friend's daughter: Doodle track car, Moon in my Room or Inanimate Stickers. Little kids typically like stickers, drawing and toys so anything that's easy cleanup for parents would likely be a real winner.

If you're a beginner, get the S107g. It's something like 85% off and I love every bit of it. It's very small and light, so you can only fly it inside, but still tons of fun. The rotors look a bit flimsy, but I've been smashing this thing into every wall in my house daily for the past three weeks and it's still doing pretty good.

oh dear god yes. I bought this for a buddy's bachelor party (he and all of the other guys went to RPI). It was great success.

Ideal is 30k - 50k wt not 30-50 wt

It will work but you need something much thicker. This is shock oil. You want differential oil which is just really thick shock oil. 900 CST = ~67 wt and ideal is 30k to 50k wt (apparently ~1250461 to ~2291130 cst (accidentally said wt instead of cst) ).

I think if you get this, it will either be like water and do nothing to the cube or basically be like maru lube that lasts longer which can be a good thing (maru lube makes cubes super fast but doesn't last very long).

You're spot on for the propeller measurements. One thing to keep in mind is almost everyone runs 5" props, so you'll have a lot more options if you build based around that. The only benefit you can find from 6" is if are intentionally trying to do efficient flying for more time, otherwise you won't really see much of a difference.
The additional benefit of smaller props is that you can go a bit smaller on your build, which means less force across the frame when you land and less breaking. I find that 4mm arms are the sweet spot for durability, 3mm is just a little bit low for anything above 150mm. Removable arms are even better while learning, so you don't have to replace the entire frame if one breaks.

I have normal Prime, but not sure if the stuff that shows as Prime eligible for me is the same as the one-day eligible stuff for you. That being said, if I had to build a drone from Amazon right now, I'd go with:

Frame 1 or 2 (actually have this one from a previous build)
ESCs (I prefer separate ESCs rather than 4-in-1 or all-in-1 in case anything breaks)
Flight controller
PDB
Props 1 or 2 depending on what your motors can handle, should be able to do either based on that kv and measurement
Receiver (assuming you get the QX7)
Video transmitter
Camera
Batteries
Charger
Balance board for charging multiple batteries

Left out motors since it sounds like you have some in mind. This kind of build will have plenty of power, probably hover at around 30% throttle if I had to guess, so just keep that in mind. You can tone it down manually by getting some less aggressive propellers, in the flight controller max throttle, or on your transmitter max throttle, but I recommend just getting used to it. Also mess around in simulators, there weren't any when I started out and I would have probably saved a few hundred in parts if they were (though parts back then were like 8x the cost they are today).

I used these:

Makerfire 2pcs 2.4G 5.8G FPV TX Antenna RP-SMA Male Dipole Whip FPV Antenna for FPV Multicopter Racing Drone Quadcopter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071LMRK36/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_7E-8AbSHNSN3C

Way better than the standard ASRock one on my Z370 Fatal1ty and much smaller, too. Don’t ask me how that’s possible. 😂

5GHz is especially good with these. Ask me tomorrow and I’ll check what my link speeds are, if it’ll help. FWIW, I’m behind a 6’ tall mirror and two interior walls, plus a hallway. In total, maybe ~25 feet away from a Synology RT-2600ac with both bands active on a 100Mbps Spectrum package.

Fun Toy that's not expensive. I have one and it's ridiculously fun: http://www.amazon.com/Syma-S107-S107G-Helicopter-Colors/dp/8499000606/ref=sr_1_1?s=toys-and-games&ie=UTF8&qid=1321847149&sr=1-1

Other Gifts: In thinking back on gifts I've really enjoyed from my dad, I would say books that he really loved and got for me. Even though I didn't read some of them until years later, I eventually was so glad I got them and we've talked about them on numerous occasions. One that comes to mind was Asimov's Foundation.

But also, helicopter. Fun!

The Hubsan x4 and the Nano QX would be perfect for him. The Nano is a bit more expensive but less toy like than the Hubsan. I'm sure he would be happy with ether one! :-)

OK, I need to clarify this.

When the motors are not firing balls, and as long as I have my finger on the trigger, the motors will run great, and not slow down. So they appear to be working great.

However, It's when they are shooting balls that there is a problem. When they are firing the balls for a solid 10-15 seconds, the motors start to slow down, and sound like the battery is dying.

The battery has a 20C constant rating with 30C burst discharge rate.

The battery I'm using is this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0072AEY5I/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I'll admit that I'm having to read up on the C rating right now. I don't know much about that. Is a 20C battery too low? Or maybe it's just not made to be held down continuously?

Thanks again with all the help you've given me. It really means a lot.

I don't have time to write a book, but here are a couple of things I can share. I boxed up my stuff 20-25 years ago. We all ran RC 10s with NiCads. We all used Novak ESCs (T1 and T4). Futaba and KO Propo for radio.

Motors - Look at the motor/ESC combos that are available.

ESCs - Again look at the combos. Castle makes some nice stuff and they have software so you can program the ESC from your computer. It is very annoying to program an ESC based on flashing lights and beeps. http://www.castlecreations.com/products/castle_link.html

Receivers - I tried to use my old Novak receiver and Futaba, but it wasn't reliable. I broke down and just got a new Futaba set. There is a company called Fly Sky that makes very inexpensive transmitters that I hear are not that bad.

Servos - The big thing here is more power and strength due to the rock crawler crowd. A lot more options now.

Batteries - I tried to use NiMH and now realize I should have just gone straight to LiPo. LiPos supposedly are a little volatile and should be stored in a liPo sack to prevent against fire. I bet you have to do something really stupid to make them dangerous though. They also need to be put into storage mode if they are not going to be used for a while. This just means they need to be charged to a certain amount. I do what is called a balanced charge each time I charge them. This means that each section of the battery is at the same voltage. I have been using this charger and it works well. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00466LEMC/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_3?pf_rd_p=1535523722&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B003EJD8HG&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=0XZERFQM3FBSQ820RX7E

Chassis - Correct, not much difference here especially when you look at brands like Team Associated or Tamiya. There are some new brands out there that make some nice stuff like Axial.

Hopefully someone with more time can elaborate . . . . especially on the battery stuff because it is a bit complicated.

In that case, I guess you could just buy a single bottle of 50k which will cost you around ~$20, which will still help you with the spring noise, but it is also the same price of the set in the regular amazon, so if you can source some from there, then it could save you some money than buying from amazon.in (also people say traxxas lasts forever, which makes it a good investment)

​

But if you're r e a l l y tight on budget, people say Gan Magic Lube is pretty nice and costs around ~$6 on thecubicle.com (idk about India prices), but won't really help with your spring problem.

This is just my opinion but I would recommend buying the [husband X4] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IZC6C8E/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B00IZC6C8E&linkCode=as2&tag=phreakenterp-20&linkId=OQXRQ5RIBJ3C2N3U)

It's cheap and easy to learn on. But on whether to build or not. Building is:

• cheaper for the same product
  
  
• more customizable
  
  
• easier to fix when you break something
  
  
• More work to setup
  
  
• Can require technical knowledge (this subreddit can help you learn)
  
  Just my 2 cents.

Im sure its fine, but its super overpriced. Effectively looks like a syma x1 with a fancy, heavy frame over it.

Get the syma x1 for $35 or the hubsan x4: http://www.amazon.com/Hubsan-H107L-Mini-RTF-Quadcopter/dp/B00IZC6C8E/

Imax for about 40$ can charge and do everything you could ever want a charger to do for any battery. Do not even attempt to use your other charger. A 23minute video I made for lipos for /r/airsoft

Link for charger with the power supply 53$ worth every penny. I have over 20 different chargers myself. I can find you what you need let me know your budget. I will link more.

This charger and this power supply ~35$ best choice. Power supply is external and tou have to buy it seperate but the same thing as the first and cheaper. Pm me with questions I will point you in the right direction so hard you won't stray off. This is the shit I know the most. This is my jam. Lol

I use the "Newbie Drone" parallel charger. It gives you 12 ports to parallel charge on. It is designed for the smaller connectors, but you could easily make a cable. $20, maybe another $5-$10 to make adapters. I use an iMax b6 charger with this board (about $30-$40) and it works pretty well.

For a lot less ($4) you can get a 6 port parallel charger from RMRC. This would also need an adapter cable similar to above.

Other non-parallel options:
4 port Hitec Serial Charger. Works well, lets you charge up to 1A, and has the connector you need.

RMRC also just announced a 6 port, individual charging, for $19. It requires an XT60 cable to power it, which you could use a 3S or 4S battery, or plug in a 12v DC charger. You'd also need to make a cable for this one.

Hey, I purchased a Taranis X9D today with the intent of buying a micro as my first decent quad (I've trashed a few cheap ones learning how to fly). Once the radio arrives I plan on practicing with a sim while the (unpurchased yet) quad is in the mail.

I realise it's expensive, but the MOSKITO 70 is the frontrunner on my my micro shopping list right now. If my understanding is correct, the brushed motors on the three linked quads will wear out after a while, unlike the MOSKITO, correct?

On the Multicopter sidebar, the sidebars Batteries and Charging has some great info, however I'm still a little unclear on:

1. The difference between batteries. Looking at banggoods "1s lipo battery" page, there are all manner of mAh ratings for each battery. Can any of these be used on the micro quads listed above? Is a higher C-Rating always better?
   
2. A 1S battery doesn't have multiple cells to be balanced, so the recommended Hitec RCD 44212 X4 is a simple buy. But if I were to move onto 2S or greater, would I need to choose between a Balance Charger or a Parallel Charger?

This is the drone that I have built:

Been slowly building my first quad over the past month or so. Just when I have time. I bought a cheap carbon fiber kit off amazon. I will list everything I have bought so far.

Fly Sky FS-i6 Transmitter https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00VE3PZ3Y/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Fly Sky FSia6b RX (need this to run PPM instead of PWM): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00VE3Q3XU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

LHI quad Kit with ESC's, Motors and Flight Controller: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B010FMGUS8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Now the above kit comes with a CC3D flight controller, after some research, I decided that I would use a Naze32 rev6 board instead. I purchased that from Hobby king, I will list all hobbyking purchases after amazon.

Nylon hex nuts, screws and stand offs:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01EPLH08Y/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

XT60 connectors: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01E9HM7NC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Lipo Voltage Checker: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01E7UXVL8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Battery / GoPro straps: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01F7MEDW6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 PS: good velcro isnt enough!

Tri-blade Props. Buy a couple of these!:https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01CHDNRRK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Extra arms....JUST IN CASE! https://www.amazon.com/LHI-Carbon-thick-250mm-Quadcopter/dp/B01715HGNU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1472346179&sr=8-1&keywords=LHI+arms


These are all the hobby king stuff that I bought:
Naze 32 FC ACRO: http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__96841__AfroFlight_Naze32_Rev6_Flight_Controller_Acro_.html

1300 mah 3s 45-90c lipos: http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__18207__Turnigy_nano_tech_1300mAh_3S_45_90C_Lipo_Pack.html

Besides a lipo charger, the above will get you flying! Below is everything needed for the FPV aspect! I used to run RC cars so luckily I had a lipo charger from those days

Camera and transmitter from ebay: http://www.ebay.com/itm/262061528376?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Clover antennas from ebay: http://www.ebay.com/itm/272297376391?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Quanum Cyclops FPV Goggles from hobbyking: http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__104150__Quanum_Cyclops_FPV_Goggle_w_Integrated_Monitor_and_Receiver_AR_Warehouse_.html

Now this is prolly the most basic, beginners fpv setup that you can buy... Its perfect for learning and crashing lol. I have about 3 flights with mine so far, about 4 batteries. Buy props lol, lots of props. Already had to change 1 arm too.

That thing looks awesome. How did it fly? My first "multirotor" was this micro heli that I got it from Amazon in 2012 when they were first starting to put gyros in the micros. The little guy still flies really great too. Since I've watched quadcopter tech advance so quickly I wonder how much better the helis have become since 2012. I haven't heard anything about them in recent years. I'll have to look into them and see if they've gotten into FPV now.

Yep, and they fly great.

Hubsan X4 or Blade Nano QX are the two I can suggest (have both). Started with the X4 but eventually purchased a hobby grade transmitter and a Nano to bind with it.

WLToys and Syma make some other popular options, many of these at $50 or less (especially if you don't mind a wait and shipping from China).

If you want Prime though, here is the X4 page and here's the Blade QX BNF.

Have fun!

Your receiver has to be the same protocol as your transmitter.
The battery you chose must have the same plug as your ESC (I use XT60, probably the most common). You can actually solder new connectors onto your battery or ESC but this can be a bit dangerous if you're inexperienced.
Those are pretty much the only two compatibility issues you may run into. Use a known powerplant (motor/prop combo) if you're inexperienced as pairing motors and props can get a bit complicated (kV, prop, power, battery voltage all are factors). The 2200kv turnigy motor with a 6x4 prop plugged into a 30A esc on 3 cells is tried and true.
For example these would work together: motor, ESC, Battery.
Good luck.

Thanks for the reply!

Yes, I have ER9x flashed and this is the USB adapter I have been trying to use.

I'm having a similar problem, I think. It just doesn't register at all. Nothing installs or pops up when I plug it in and no controllers show up in Windows or simulator settings. The Tx does, however, power up when I plug it in.

Any ideas? Did you have to remove the module for yours to work?

I'd prefer to use the USB adapter over 3.5mm connection. But at this point I'll take anything that works. haha So I'd appreciate any tips you might have. Thanks!

I just recently started myself with [this] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00CP5NSGG) and have really enjoyed it a lot. Feels like I'm already immeasurably better at controlling it and I've only had ten or twelve flights. I would definitely recommend this model for learning on.

Get the $20 syma indoor helicopters on Amazon. They are great and cheap. They only work indoors though. It’s great for beginners, it’s only 3 channel. Once you master it you can move on to 4 channel. Enjoy. I saw them at fry’s also, same price.

Syma S107/S107G R/C Helicopter with Gyro- Red https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00F4WMAAW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_filkDb5QFAWP8

Came here to post this! They are tons of fun. Each of the grad students in my lab owns a set, and we have combined them to make some really sweet huge stuff!

We also have two of these in the lab:
Syma S107 Remote Control Helicopter. They're a TON of fun.

As I'm nearing the finishing stages of my build (woo!), it has occurred to me that, even though I ordered a couple of 1500mAh 3s batteries, and I already have a Genuine SKYRC iMAX B6AC V2 Dual Power (6Amps, 50Watts), I need something to go in between the two!

I've been charging my 1s Whoop-class batteries with a parallel charging board on Amazon, but it's just for 1s.

Amazon tells me that people who bought the Genuine SKYRC iMAX B6AC V2 Dual Power (6Amps, 50Watts) above, also bought this: BW® 2-6S Lipo XT60-Plug Parallel Balanced Charging Plate Charging Board for Imax B6 / B6AC / B8

It's not clear to me how that plugs into the SKYRC iMAX B6AC V2. It looks like the only way to plug into it is male-type banana clips.

What else do I need? What do you recommend?

I'd like to be able to parallel charge 1-4 (or more) 1300-1500mAh 3s, or 4s batteries.

I have this and it's big brother. I did manage to break a blade on the larger one but I found replacements for about $12. The little has more flexible blades so it doesn't seem like they'll break as easily, also it seems to handle better. It's actually much easy to fly / control than the bigger.

This is also a great learning quad . After a little over a month of draining the 3 batteries I have for it almost everyday, I feel like I have a good grasp on the basics of flying. I'm planning my first build now.

The hubsan is definitely worth the money.

That is a super cool quad, I saw it on /r/technology the other day! Coolest thing since sliced bread!

If you want planes, then amazon has a lot of cheap beginner planes!

HobbyZone Duet

Or

The Champ!

They're both relatively cheap, have great reviews, and are a low maintenance cost alternative to Hobby grade planes!

Hah, it does sound like it :)

I just know how much kids love these things, and how easy they are to break.

EDIT: err, I mean - http://www.amazon.com/Hubsan-H107L-Mini-RTF-Quadcopter/dp/B00IZC6C8E/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1410873331&sr=8-1&keywords=hubsan+x4

1. BugASalt - $30 - indegogo
   
2. Syma s107 RC Helicopter - $17.98 - amazon
   
3. Raspberry PI - $35 - newark.com
   
4. Lego Prehistoric Hunters - $24.99 - amazon
   
   Might as well order one of those bugasalt. I'm sure you can put this to good use.. An RC helicopter is always a lot of fun. Try it during your work break. It makes the day go better.. I swear!
   It seems you have an interest in programming stuff, so you can't go wrong with a RaspberryPi. And who doesn't want a LEGO TRex!!!!!!
   
   Aaand crap... I just read Needs to be able to ship to Australia.
   I'm guessing pick one in this case...

I did tons of research today and I found from many many YouTube videos, Traxxis 50k is the best. It's cheap, and there is a lot of lube inside the tube. It works great for all cubes. I actually bought a tube for myself today. Here's the link. [Traxxas 50k Lube](Traxxas 5137 Differential Oil, 50K Weight https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BOLVFI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_j.ItybSA4VN9D)

I hope this helps!

Album Link

This is the Velka 3 v1.1 in Grey

---
This is my very first SFFPC build. I am coming a Fractal Design Nano S. This Velka 3 is Tiny! I did some small amount of basic modding to make it look like I wanted it. I replaced the 16mm Anti-Vandal switch that came with it for one that has an led for power. I wrapped the psu cables in an automotive cloth wiring harness tape so you couldn't see the bright psu cables from the original. I taped over the Velkase Fans to hide the colors of the stickers and cables as well. I also used the small quadcopter antennas.

---

Specs:

| Part | Price | Purchased at |
|:-----------|------------:|:------------:|
| Ryzen 5 1600| $65| hardwareswap
| MSI B450I Gaming Plus AC | $130| Amazon
| 8GB x 2 Crucial Ballistix Sport 3000MHz | $66| Amazon
| EVGA GeForce GTX 1060 SC 6GB | $110| hardwareswap
| FSP 400w Flex ATX PSU | $90| Amazon
| Reeven Vanxie 34mm Tall | $20| Newegg
| Samsung EVO 970 250GB| ($70 otherwise)| Previous Build
| Velka 3 Grey| $80| Velkase
| 2 x VF-8010-PWM 80mm x 10mm| $20| Velkase
| Velkase-LiHeat 300mm Riser | $40| Velkase

---

Notes

Replacement Power Switch

• For the Replacement LED I chose this one from Amazon in White color. I snagged this to create the harness. Using Shrink tube and Cable Sleeving and some solder to attach it to the switch.
  
  
• For those of you interested in the space that the PSU has heres a close up with how close it to the power switch.
  
  

  CPU Cooler
  

• I chose this cooler just to try. This was way before the Black Noctua NH-L9 Released. I replaced the fan with a Velkase fan because its all black and has the same dimensions and also has a higher RPM. So far the temps have been good. My CPU isn't stressed while gaming (1080p 60hz). I think I turned on game mode in the bios and the CPU is at 3.4Ghz on all cores. The cooler is rated for 65W TDP.
  
  

  Case Fans
  

• For those interested in the 80mm x 10mm clearance heres a photo of close they come with the motherboard
  
  

  Velka 3 Sidenotes
  

• So just a small side note the case came with plenty of M3 Screws BUT I noticed that some are different styles. There are two types. Ones that are longer, and have a smaller phillips socket. And ones that are shorter and a larger phillips socket. The shorter ones actually are shallower and they don't protrude on the sides of the case as much. I used these for the exterior panels. The longer ones I used for mounting all the internals as they had more "bite" to hold everything together
  
• It also came with a prototype of the pico psu blanking plate for the PSU. Response from Michael on this exactly "the PSU cover is just an experimental part with limited use, so it is not mentioned anywhere. If the direct plug in HDPLEX 200 (not yet tested) physically fits into the case, then the PSU cover can be used with it. A PicoPSU from MiniBox can be used as well, but only if you correctly drill two small holes around the smaller circular opening in the plate."
  
• One thing I want to point out is with my particular case it had a blemish on the side panel. Not sure why but its noticeable when looked at closely. There's one on both sides in the same spot but this on is the most noticeable and more noticeable in person

Mode 1 right throttle, mode 2 left throttle. i think most use mode 2?


Turnigy 9XR doesn't come with a module (tx and rx), so you need a set of those.


If you are trying to save money, maybe something like this?


If looking for something to use with other stuff in the future, I would get something like this. it comes with the tx/rx


I got one of these for a charger.

disclaimer: I am a noob at this (2 months) so take with grain of salt!! -lol

Yeah, making your own at home is pretty easy to do. I've done it many times over the years. Requires a standard color printer, Decal paper, and a can of clear coat. $20 worth of materials will net you 6 pages of decals.

Without a doubt I think you should start with the Hubsan X4. I got one for my son a few months ago, and I've been flying it non-stop. A lot of fun and flies great indoors and out (with light wind.) Start inside and get good before you venture outside.

http://www.amazon.com/The-Hubsan-H107L-Improved-Version/dp/B00CP5NSGG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1393804814&sr=8-1&keywords=hubsan+quadcopter

I recommend This. It's a lot lot cheaper than Lubix, but it's pretty much the same thing. While you're at it, you could also get a cheap syringe and needle on amazon to help apply the lube as the bottle's nozzle is a little harder to use.

Depends - does he have any experience flying quads? I think it's a good idea to learn to fly with something cheap. I started with the Hubsan H107L X4 Mini RTF RC Quadcopter. I bought the quadcopter, a crash pack, a prop guard, and some extra batteries for about $100, and it has treated me pretty well. I think Hubsan has a similar model with a camera, but I don't have any experience with it.

If your dad has experience flying and/or you're looking for something a little fancier, I won't be much help. Good luck!

Why don't you list out the features you need or want. And also desired and acceptable flight times.

Some things to think about...

• Carrying Capacity? How heavy are the cameras you want to lift? Pretty simple if you stick to the GoPro standard anything above a 250 quad can carry a GoPro and simple 2-axis gimbal. If you want to carry a DSLR or new mirrorless 4/3 camera... you'll need something on the larger size for enough lift.
  
• Follow Me - Will require GPS, an advanced AutoPiloting flight controller, and a compatible tracking/GPS device on the Follow Me subject.
  
• Rotor redundancy. If a single motor/prop fails do you accept that it will fall from the sky like a brick? or do you need something that will have a slow/controlled crash with a single motor/prop failure?
  
• Do you want a live feed from the camera? How do you want to view the feed? Monitor attached to the radio controller? or a goggle system?
  
• Do you want telemetry? Data reporting back to your radio controller, computer, tablet or overlayed on your video feed? Data that can be reported back... health of GPS connections, coordinates, Battery levels, altitude, distance from "home" location.
  
• Budget... probably should have listed this first. Where's the fun in that?
  
  
  Example Hex... Little under the cost of a Quad Phantom 2 V+ and a good bit under the Quad Iris+ while giving you some protection against a single motor/prop failure.
  
  
• $60-$100 - F550 or S550 Hex frame
  
• $230 - Tuned Propulsion Kit - DJI E310 (Makes picking motors, props size, esc size easy for an F550 or S550 frame).
  
• $130 - PixHawk Clone
  
• $50 - GPS (Works with both US/EU GPS systems)
  
• $40-$75 Pixhawk ground station/mission planner/telemetry connectivity (No link as it depends on connection type i.e. PC/Tablet/Phone)
  
• $55 - 4S 6000mah battery (probably want 2 or 3)
  
• $65 Battery charger
  
• $70 - Cheap 2-Axis GoPro Gimbal
  
• $250 - FrSky Taranis Radio Controller and Receiver Combo (Cheaper options exist for around $150. $60 Turnigy 9X Transmitter / $40 FrSky TX Module / $40 FrSky Receiver)
  
• $30-$70 Video transmitter - Depends on if you want fatshark goggle compatibility (ImmersionRC or the Generic 32Ch variety)
  
• $120-$220 7" Video Receiver Monitor combo. (Depends on the Video transmitter and if you want dual antenna setup.)
  
• $$$ GoPro
  
• @ $50+ in Misc servo cables, battery connectors, Hot glue, double sided tape, velcro scrips, solder and cheap soldering iron. Some of which you'll likely already have, but some you'll need as the build progresses.
  

Battery: Floureon 2 Packs 3S 11.1V 2200mAh 25C RC is too heavy and too weak. Your 4 motors + 5045 triblades will draw up to 24Ax4=~100A of current and battery nominal capability is up to 2,2x25C=55A. Look for 1300mAh 45C or even better 65C.
For instance this Tattu battery:
https://www.amazon.com/Tattu-Battery-1300mAh-11-1V-Airplane/dp/B013I9RLVK/
Or even better this one:
https://www.amazon.com/Tattu-Battery-1300mAh-11-1V-Airplane/dp/B013I9SYC0/
These batteries are really good ones, will give you more punch than Floureon ones.

FC: Naze32 is a bit yesterday. If it is your first quad then probably you can use it. Better use SP Racing F3, like this one:
https://www.amazon.com/Makerfire-Flight-Controller-SPRacing-Deluxe/dp/B01JS1Z38A

Yeah but it's gotta be affordable, and not fake. I've tried searching for available graphene batteries or systems and so far there isn't really anything you can buy that seems not sketchy. I'm also not impressed by any of the stats that come with some of the less sketchy ones i/e actually rated and not just fake reviews. Until that "graphene" battery has specifications that dictate it's significantly better than anything else I won't buy it. They are always claiming graphene is crazy amazing with super storage and fast charge times but when it has barely more than standard battery storage I get a bit skeptical. I found one which says it's a graphene battery but it's only 14v 1.3 Ah and it weighs 176 grams. While numerous other standard type batteries like this one have the same exact specs but actually weigh less at 155 grams. Which makes no sense considering the supposed capabilities of graphene and perks for using it. Which leads me to believe that it being advertised as graphene is a bit of a stretch towards and outright lie.

Perfect!!! I decided to use that!

Can you let me know if you see any problems with this list?? Anything I can improve?? Anything I don't need??

Frame, PDB, FC, Motors, ESCs

Extra XT60 Battery Connectors

Props

Standoffs

2mm Gold Bullet Connector

Cable/Zip Ties

DIY FPV Kit

Tx/Rx

Tx/Rx to USB Adapter

Drone Battery 1 (heavy) 2200mAh

Drone Battery 2 (light) 1800mAh

FPV battery 1500mAh

What's the cheapest way to be able to get voltage to show on my FPV setup?

-Would I be able to use this voltage checker/warning buzzer?

What about a cheap lost model buzzer/discovery buzzer?? Can I use a switch on my Tx to make the alarm sound??

Is it overkill to get 3 batteries total?? 2 for the drone (So I can keep flying when one is charging) and 1 for the FPV reciever/display?

Thanks for the help!!

Has he ever flown anything?

If not then the stock answer is to go with one of the "toy" quads. They are fairly inexpensive, very durable, and replacement parts are plentiful and cheap for the inevitable crashes. Once he gets the hang of that, then he can move up to something that's more powerful, and expensive.

Don't be fooled by the size, these are still fairly tough to get the hang of flying, and are really great fun. Most can be flown indoors as well.

The Hubsan H107 gets recommended quite a bit (I own one, and it's been great).

http://www.amazon.com/Hubsan-H107-L_M2-The-X4-H107L/dp/B00CP5NSGG/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1407263704&sr=8-2&keywords=quadcopter

With that you'd want to get both the prop guard, and the crash kit.

The Syma X1 gets a lot of recommendations as well:

http://www.amazon.com/Syma-Channel-2-4G-Quad-Copter/dp/B0096SJU3U/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1407263704&sr=8-5&keywords=quadcopter

http://www.amazon.com/Syma-Channel-2-4G-Quad-Copter/dp/B00906PKQ4/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1407263704&sr=8-8&keywords=quadcopter

And there's the Estes Proto X (I don't see many recommendations for this, but have seen it mentioned in other places quite a bit):

http://www.amazon.com/Estes-Proto-Quadcopter-Colors-Black/dp/B00G924W98/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1407263704&sr=8-6&keywords=quadcopter

I'm sure there are more that I'm missing, but I'm sure others will chime in.

I might suggest an indoor vehicle. I personally have these:
http://www.amazon.com/Syma-S107-S107G-Helicopter-Colors/dp/8499000606/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1369769242&sr=8-1&keywords=syma+s107g
http://www.amazon.com/Maisto-Lamborghini-Mucilage-Colors-Vary/dp/B003PBPHBS/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1369769256&sr=8-8&keywords=maisto+rc
Great fun if you just wanna screw around inside :)

From everything I've read here, the Hubsan X4 series are great. There are new ones coming out at some point in the future, however the current versions are great, and cheap as well.

http://www.amazon.com/Hubsan-H107L-Channel-2-4GHz-Quadcopter/dp/B00IZC6C8E

If you want to lube it use this guide:
http://youtu.be/s4paID_54lQ

Best (for the price) lube:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000BOLVFI/ref=mp_s_a_1?qid=1367526514&sr=8-1&pi=SL75

Also do a bunch of solves, then try and take out the torpedoes and see if you like that feeling better (I do but some don't)!

Now go play! :)

It appears that your heli doesn't have fwd/backward control. When given enough throttle, the tail rotor begins to spin tilting the helicopter forward. You'll have much better luck with one of these Syma S107 helicopters. They are the best for toy-grade helis.

As far as MaH vs 2s, 3s, etc. MaH will give you longer run times. All things being equal a 5000 MaH will last 25% longer than a 4000 MaH.

The difference between 2s and 3s is that 3s will have 50% more voltage because it uses 3 lipo cells instead of 2 cells. This will make your car go faster. The tradeoff is that 3s batteries are more expensive and as you're going faster, you're going to be more likely to break parts on the truck.

I'd recommend the SKYRC iMAX B6AC V2. It's also 6 amps but will do storage charge and it has a USB port if you want to hook it up to your computer. For about the same money, it has some better features. Just make sure it has the battery connector you need or else get an adapter for a few bucks.

Batteries I don't have a good recommendation. You'll need to get the dimensions of the battery tray and find something that fits or just find out what other Slash owners use and buy that. (Hobbyking has a really nice battery finder based on dimensions but I know you only want to use Amazon.)

Your best bet is it start with something like this then when you get comfortable flying, you can build a FPV 250 for ~ $600-$1000.

Just to be sure because i live in germany.
Do these look like the right parts?

https://www.amazon.de/Hubsan-H107L-Radiosteuerung-Quadrocopter-Spielzeug/dp/B00IZC6C8E/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1465071284&sr=8-1&keywords=hubsan+x4

https://www.amazon.de/Hubsan-Quadcopter-Flugzeug-Helikopter-8-5x20mm/dp/B00TIDNBEC/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1465071245&sr=8-2-fkmr0&keywords=Tera+4+Pcs+Quadcopter+Spare+Parts+3.7V+Motor+7x20mm+for+Hubsan+X4+H107L+Quadcopter

https://www.amazon.de/Haibei-Propeller-Rotorbl%C3%A4tter-Quadcopter-Ersatzteile/dp/B014PASS40/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1465071422&sr=8-1&keywords=walkera+ladybird+props

https://www.amazon.de/Keenstone-LiPo-Akku-4-Kanal-QuadCopter-Super-CP/dp/B01DK7N2OK/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1465071191&sr=8-1-fkmr0&keywords=5pcs+Tenergy+3.7V+380mAh+LiPO+Battery+for+Hubsan
And thank you for the help.

Nice! I'd recommend getting a toy size quad to practice on, it will save you some cash in the long run. The Hubsan X4 has treated me well.

Oh I see it has a trainer port but its not a 3.5mm cable like on spektrum the best way to hook it up would buy a cable for it something like this https://www.amazon.com/GoolRC-Universal-Flight-Simulator-Futaba/dp/B00DR4I4O0

Also a vid if u just want to solder up the cable yourself https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mF2BIekw2tw

Also, do you have a LiPo charger? If not you can check out the iMax B6AC V2 which is probably the best bang for the buck. Watch a youtube video or two and you will be good to go.

If you need help picking out batteries or any other accessories just post in this sub and ask.

If you don't have traxxas 50k, get that first just due to the versatility of it, being able to use 50k on both the core and sparingly on the pieces. You can get it over on amazon here.

If you still do have more budget, I would recommend lubes specifically for the pieces. Stuff such as TheCubicle's Silk, DNM-37, and Lubicle One, or Cosmic lube from SpeedcubeShop will do as well. These lubes are less viscous than 50k and are great for being used on the pieces.

These were $40 at Radio Shack. Get one from there or your local hobby shop, practice with it until you get good, then head back to your local hobby shop, walk up to the guy at the counter and say "I have $160 and I've been practicing with a Hubsan. What's a good model I can upgrade to?"

Win.

This RC Helicopter

19.50 shipped, the greatest toy ever. Charges via USB and has a built in gyroscope. It is also indestructible, I crash it into anything and everything but it is also maneuverable enough that within my first hour of flight it got it to perch on top of an iMac. I showed my dad and he immediately bought 5 and gave them to his buddies, everyone can fly it and love it.

I've been pretty happy with these clear props:
http://www.amazon.com/AFUNTA-Transparent-Propellers-Quadcopter-Helicopter/dp/B00RE5US38/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1451986117&sr=8-1&keywords=hubsan+clear+props

They seem more bendable/durable than the stock ones.

I'm 30and my mom got me the Syma s107 this Christmas. My dad is in his 50s. He got one too.

These things are awesome! Surprisingly easy to fly.

$30.00. Tons of fun to fly, a great cheap introduction, and a great way to learn the basics. There's a learning curve, you're going to crash, so why not use something easily replaceable.

I love this little guy, I have a bunch of ducted fan jets and still like to fly this one around.

https://www.amazon.com/HobbyZone-HBZ4900-Champ-RTF-Airplane/dp/B003DZ35GK/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=hobbyzone&qid=1573855022&sr=8-4

I just burned out an ESC on a quad I just finished building :(. What's the best way to determine the cause?

It's a this ESC powered by this battery with this power distribution board. Thanks in advance!

I love these little Hubsan X4’s. I always buy the version without a camera and without the “altitude hold/flight stabilization” horseshit. The basic plain Jane 4”quad. One of the X4’s with a half dozen batteries (always upgrade battery, don’t buy stock lipos they suuuck) and you’ll have an absolute blast for $40. Also great for night flight with the leds.

https://www.amazon.com/Hubsan-H107L-Channel-2-4GHz-Quadcopter/dp/B00IZC6C8E/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?crid=3FQP7KZKRDLF7&keywords=hubsan+x4&qid=1554822023&s=gateway&sprefix=hubsan&sr=8-3

If you're really alone for the whole night, and work in a big openspace office, check out these things. They're hella fun. Side note, I won't say whenever I did or did not fly RC helicopters in my corporate offices.

Beside that, learning to code is fun, and quite rewarding.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/8499000606/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1376159623&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX110_SY190

They are surprisingly durable and easy to fly. I've slammed that thing into the walls and ceiling dozens of times so far and it still flies great.

Honestly, at that price point, you're best off going with the Hubsan x4 H107L


Here's an amazon link if u want:

Hubsan X4 (H107L) 4 Channel 2.4GHz RC Quadcopter, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IZC6C8E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_hVuFybV3D6TR6

I like my flysky. They're the same as Turnigy I think? Remember that there's a huge difference between the FS-T6 and FS-i6, the i6 being newer with telemetry and stuff. link for Flysky

Also recommended are the OrangeRX and TX systems. Link to Orange TX

Looks like the 7000 series. There's a 7000 (assembled by user), 7500 (same but comes preassembled), and 7800 (don't remember what difference this had). There may have been others in the series but those are all I know of. I'm guessing the 7500 because the wires are run through the tubes.

It's discontinued and there's very little support available, though they do respond to email at americas@came-tv.com. I tried to get a replacement motor and they told me they don't sell them. So if you want to sell me one of your motors, I'll buy it!

Battery is a LiPo. I bought this charger for it:
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B005LH3392

You could get something cheaper nowadays. But you have to unwrap the battery to see what its specs are to charge it properly. If it's 5000mAh (or some other number) it requires a different setting on the charger than the more common 2500mAh. That's one's PROBABLY a 2500mAh. Get a LiPo charger with a "Deans" connector, and read up carefully about charging it properly so it doesn't explode. If you know what mAh it is and how many cells it has, you can buy a cheapo charger that's hard-coded to that one exact combination. Or you can buy an expensive one like I linked to above to be able to charge multiple types.

It's an old, finicky gimbal that's hard to balance and charge, so if you give up, PM me and I'll buy a motor off of it because we still use one at a school I teach at.

Sure thing, okay so... I started with a hubsan x4 from Amazon.com it was 40 bucks. Then I got a pack that had spare batteries and propeller blades for 12 bucks. Took it to a park on a non-windy day and flew over the grass a bunch. The right control stick clicks in to switch between "beginner mode" and "expert mode" I think expert mode was actually easier to learn in.

Flite test has great videos for beginners, this one helped me immensely to practice flying: https://youtu.be/6btEFJJD4_o

The goggles were about 100 bucks on Amazon

The little FPV camera was 50 (I already had a battery for it, that's something separate you'll need if you go this route but I might have done it differently knowing what I know now)

If you want links to more stuff on Amazon or YouTube. Lets me know I've got lots!

I have a full size quad that I built. I also have a hubsan.

I highly recommend getting the hubsan to practice with. it's cheap, easy to repair, and does a good job training flight skills.

one with camera ($30):

https://www.amazon.com/Hubsan-Channel-2-4GHz-Copter-Camera/dp/B00EXBDWZC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1468503824&sr=8-1&keywords=hubsan

Without camera ($30):

https://www.amazon.com/Hubsan-H107L-Channel-2-4GHz-Quadcopter/dp/B00IZC6C8E/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1468503862&sr=8-2&keywords=hubsan

FPV ($110):

https://www.amazon.com/Hubsan-Quadcopter-FPV-Camera-Toy/dp/B00GSNWB5K/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1468503862&sr=8-4&keywords=hubsan


On a side note, I am floored at how cheap the fpv and camera models are.

Something like that should work in theory, but you should probably look for some reviews for what looks like really cheap Chinese electronics. I've got the Hitec x4 Micro, which is twice the price, but really nice.

http://www.amazon.com/X4-Micro-AC-LiPo-Charger/dp/B00FYL2INM

Thanks for the response! Which 1300mah batteries did you purchase?

I have a chunk of amazon credit that I'd like to use to get the rest of my stuff (even if it comes at a slight premium), so I plan on getting my prop balancer, charger, etc from there if possible.

This is the charger

And I'm considering a few of these batteries

I went with a Turnigy 2200mAh 3S 20C Lipo Pack for the controller with this charger and they are XT60


Could I use the same charger for the Quad packs? I have not pulled the trigger on the Turnigy nano-tech 1300mAh 3S 45/90 Lipo Pack yet.


I'm guessing the recommendation for the 1800mah 25-35C is to fly slower at first right? We would by flying FPV but not racing it so I think that's probably a good recommendation.

Since we are already using 2200mAh 3S 20C with an XT60 connector could we just use the same exact pack for the quad? It's rated at 20 constant, 30 burst and we could always use a spare for the controller if we go with a lighter battery with higher discharge for the quad later.

We aren't carrying a GoPro or anything so it would probably support the 2200.

TURN THAT FROWN UPSIDEDOWN, FRIEND! D: ---> :D

I think this rc heli would cheer you up! :3

> walkera ladybird prop

Get these(amazon or banggood) and the frame that I linked.It will fly way,way better then with that poly frame that you have.Guaranteed!

Here is the female connecter needed for your board.Amazon/banggood also has the 380/400 mah,which I think is the best size for your build.

http://www.rc-drones.com/HubsanWalkera-Style-battery-Connector-MaleFemale_p_1049.html

http://www.amazon.com/Keenstone-Battery-Channel-QuadCopter-Walkera/dp/B00S8VEH3E/ref=sr_1_2?s=toys-and-games&ie=UTF8&qid=1462406040&sr=1-2&keywords=380+mah

http://www.amazon.com/Tenergy-Battery-Channel-QuadCopter-Walkera/dp/B00HS5Y6G4/ref=sr_1_4?s=toys-and-games&ie=UTF8&qid=1462406040&sr=1-4&keywords=380+mah

What kind of capacity do you need? Maybe buy or make a 3sXp Li-Ion battery that has however many in parallel you want to fulfill your physical size/capacity requirements.Great Scott has a really great video on him making this but you can buy pre made packs too like these:
(Note that with any of these packs you will need a balance charger or a BMS that has charging function)
https://www.amazon.com/Tattu-Battery-1300mAh-11-1V-Airplane/dp/B013I9RLVK/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?keywords=3s&qid=1572316137&sr=8-5

https://www.amazon.com/FLOUREON-Packs-1500mAh-Battery-Truggy/dp/B074PPMFMC/ref=mp_s_a_1_24_sspa?keywords=3s+lithium+ion&qid=1572316188&sr=8-24-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUFUSEcwSDg5RFlGQiZlbmNyeXB0ZWRJZD1BMDI1NzY2ODIxM0IwTURRTlU3MlcmZW5jcnlwdGVkQWRJZD1BMDg3MjQwNjM4VkJGREQ1QVpNQTQmd2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9waG9uZV9zZWFyY2hfbXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==

Get one of these !

Only $20, they are completely stable and maneuverable in any direction. I've dropped it from over 30 feet and ran them into walls and it still flies like a champ. With blinky lights too! Not sure what else you could want in a heli.

I used Illustrator to vectorize the images and to scale them. Then I used this to print the decals Clear Decal Paper. After that I clear coated the sheet with some clear coat spray(GW brand). Then I cut the sheet as close to the images as possible. Then I used decal set solution to make it look like it was painted. I then use brush on clear coat to seal the model up. Just let me know if you have anymore questions.

$500 is a tight budget. $500 can get you "something that flies" and "something that's FPV." At the $500 level, you're talking 4-12 minutes.

Wind handling comes from "being fast" and "having a decent flight controller". Naze32, Flip32, KK2 2.1, NAZA, etc.. are all good flight controlers.

The big question is, what are you trying to do? Just "get in and have fun?" Well, in that case I'd probally point you at something like a the Proto or Hubsan ready to fly FPV quads, and a second, non FPV quad for bashing around. Buy two of the same brand, and a half a dozen batteries, and a good charger.

Quadcopters break. And they break, a lot. The bigger they are, the more they break. If you oops, you've lost a prop. If you oops hard, you've broken an airframe, bent a motor shaft, popped a battery... something like that.

If you're determined to fly something larger, you're going to eat the budget quickly.

So "the nerobro way"

Hubsan 104d FPV: $150
http://www.amazon.com/Hubsan-H107D-FPV-Mini-Quadcopter/dp/B00GSNWB5K/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1422240063&sr=8-1&keywords=hubsan+x4+fpv

Hubsan 104 crash pack: $20
http://www.amazon.com/Hubsan-H107D-Quadcopter-Crash-shown/dp/B00FZ9BDMU/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1422240063&sr=8-2&keywords=hubsan+x4+fpv

Hubsan 107 (non fpv): $54
http://www.amazon.com/Hubsan-H107L-Channel-2-4GHz-Quadcopter/dp/B00IZC6C8E/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1422240139&sr=8-1&keywords=hubsan+107

4x battery charger: $7
http://www.amazon.com/ThinkMax%C2%AE-X4-Battery-Charger-Hubsan/dp/B00LGWQ4FG/ref=sr_1_13?ie=UTF8&qid=1422240139&sr=8-13&keywords=hubsan+107

That'll get you something to learn with, and something to fly FPV with for less than $350. And you will NOT be bored. :-) And if you really screw up, you'll have spare parts. Consider adding a few more batteries.

yeah, that's pretty good for a beginner.

If you want to save some money, this one is also very good. Spare parts are everywhere and it flies very well.

I have large hexacopters and gas helis, but i still have a little hubsan to fly around. Good practice and it takes a beating.

https://www.amazon.com/Hubsan-H107L-Channel-2-4GHz-Quadcopter/dp/B00IZC6C8E

They're not super powerful, but still a lot of fun. You don't want a ton of power on your first done, anyway.

It's easy to fly, with readily available replacement parts.

RC Helicopter. It is VERY stable and fun to fly. $15 http://www.amazon.com/Syma-S107-S107G-Helicopter-Gyro-/dp/B00F4WMAAW/ref=sr_1_4?s=toys-and-games&ie=UTF8&qid=1462581942&sr=1-4&keywords=syma+helicopter

They are WAY stronger than you would expect. Propellers often get bent / break in crashes, but they are like $1 each so its no big deal. If you fly over grass I think its nearly impossible to break frames.

A micro drone like this is a good way to get started.

/r/Multicopter

I bought one of these a few weeks ago and it's so much fun. Great gift. I'm ordering one for my boyfriend this week.

I personally only use Traxxas 50k, I got a medium sized bottle a couple years ago, and haven't even used half of it. Really good, makes cubes smooth, and was great on my GTS2M
https://www.amazon.com/Traxxas-5137-Differential-Oil-Weight/dp/B000BOLVFI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1504210494&sr=8-1&keywords=traxxas+50k

I ended up buying these tiny antennas from Amazon. Performance has been the same as the stock antenna so far, but my PC is in the same room as my router so signal strength isn't really a problem for me. Aesthetically, they are perfect in that they are so tiny as to be basically hidden amongst the cables plugged in the back.

In the true spirit of the hobby, you should dump some cash in these. But really:

LiPo charger - $48 - Genuine SKYRC iMAX B6AC V2 Dual Power (6Amps, 50Watts): LiPo, LiHV, LiIon, LiFe, NiCd, NiMH, Pb Lead Acid AC/DC Professional RC Balancing Battery Charger & Discharger (Version 2) w/ Micro USB Port, Temperature Port, 2S-6S JST-XH Balance Ports https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ND7J38C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_htDxybG82Q702

2 batteries - $29 ea - Gens ace LiPo Battery Pack 5000mAh 50C 2S 7.4V HardCase 21 with Deans T Plug for RC Car Boat Truck Roar Approved https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00WOAWHUK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_1tDxybYW7ARFP

2 brushless combos - $43 ea. - GoolRC 3650 3100KV/4P Sensorless Brushless Motor with 60A Brushless ESC（Electric Speed Controller）for 1/10 RC Car Truck https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CCRZD1Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_LuDxybH8WPFP6

2 2.4ghz tx rx bundles - $38 ea - FLYSKY RC 3 CH Transmitter TX FS-GT3B For CAR Boat 2.4Ghz 2.4g w/ Receiver https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HNJNXVY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_LwDxybYGHVVE8

So at $280 they would both be fully up to date with lower end electronics. The sky is the limit.

This is what I have, and what many people in this sub will tell you to get.

http://www.amazon.com/Hubsan-H107L-Mini-RTF-Quadcopter/dp/B00IZC6C8E

You would be safe also getting the crash pack:
http://www.amazon.com/Hubsan-H107-Quadcopter-Crash-Pack/dp/B00D3LTTU0

Very small very fun and very easy to learn nn. I've had mine for over a year now and I still fly it every couple days.

If they're sending out free helicopters that they expect anyone to be able to fly it's probably a super cheap brand that they could get without metting with anyone. Probably a Syma S107.

I think the CrazyFlie is one of the worst options, honestly. It's expensive and requires a computer and gamepad. It might be a good option if you're into computer based control, but if you just want to fly around then there are a few others you could go with. I haven't seen many kits at this size but there are a lot of prebuilt/ready to fly options:

• Estes Proto-X (I have this one for my office)
  
• Hubsan X4
  
• Blade Nano QX (a bit more advanced features but requires a DSM2 or DSMX capable transmitter)
  
  

Thanks, yeah they probably look too similar to justify spending ~$40. I'm going to use that money to buy this then haha.

Thank you! I spent 20 minutes earlier this evening trying to figure out which dongle to get for my new Turnigy (For $21 how can you not get one?! :) 9x on osx.

I can't wait to try it on aerofly and fpv free rider.

BTW, has anyone tried the copters on aerofly? Are the physics are pathetic? or is my setup?

Edit: This dongle is only available in the international warehouse w/ $20+ shipping. It appears this one on amazon has free shipping with reasonable estimates on timing http://www.amazon.com/Universal-Flight-Simulator-Cable-Futaba/dp/B00DR4I4O0/ for $10 USD

Is the Mini version more than enough for me to start out?

http://www.amazon.ca/Hubsan-X4-Mini-RTF-Quadcopter/dp/B00IZC6C8E

I'll probably pick up spare batteries as well. Does the mini come with the prop-guard as well?

Thanks!!

Please, do yourself a favor and DO NOT start with a 450. You will break something or someone. Drop $40 on the Hubsan X4 http://www.amazon.com/Hubsan-H107L-Mini-RTF-Quadcopter/dp/B00IZC6C8E/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1416879681&sr=8-1&keywords=hubsan+x4 as a trainer, it'll teach you everything you need to know about how to fly. Beyond that, the F450 is great.

For a more budget option, I'd suggest the FlySky FS i6
https://www.amazon.com/GoolRC-2-4GHz-Transmitter-Helicopter-Receiver/dp/B00VE3PZ3Y
It is reliable, fairly high quality, and also has cheap ~ $10 USD receivers (fs ia6)

A newer model, the Taranis X7 is a well made, reliable radio, although more expensive. However, it's the best on the market right now for its price. Its very new, and might be hard to find, but it's ~ $105 price point is well worth it.
http://www.getfpv.com/frsky-taranis-q-x7-2-4ghz-16ch-transmitter-white.html

Oh no, you didn't get extra batteries!. If I may, let me pass down some wisdom:

• Your first instinct will to fly it as high as you can, ignore this instinct or you will be buying another one very soon
  
• Take it outside and try to make it hover. Once you can make it hover, try landing it on a specific item (tree stump, electrical generator box, etc).
  
• As soon as possible, get comfortable with higher rate mode (press down on the right stick)
  
• Once you can hover and land, work on flying it in circles. Practice flying it with the nose towards you, it's very very hard at first.
  
• Once you can do circles, move on to figure eights.
  
• Now you're ready for a 250mm size quad like the ZMR 250 or the WarpQuad

Hello, I was just about to order a couple days ago, then figured I should ask you all here on /r/Multicopter if you have any recommendations for changes. I can solder and have tools, is there anything that I am missing here for a complete setup? Oh I also already own a Spektrum DX6i with two Spektrum AR610 receivers.

item | link | price
-|-|-
AV transmitter/receiver | Boscam 32Ch 5.8G 600mw 5km Wireless AV Transmitter TS832 Receiver RC832 for FPV | $35.63
Charger | Genuine SKYRC iMAX B6 Mini Dual Power 6Amps 60Watts Profess​ional RC Balancing Battery Charger & Disc​harger (Version RCLITE) w/ Micro USB Port For RC Lipo Battery Cherge, Temperature Port | $36.58
Heat shrink | uxcell® 1 Meter 50mm Dia Ratio 2:1 Heat Shrinkable Shrinking Tube Black | $6.66
Flight Controller | AbuseMark Acro Naze32 Rev 6 Flight Controller W/ Straight / Bent Pin Headers, Breakout Cable, & Apex RC Products Nylon Standoffs | $39.99
Frame | YKS DIY Full Carbon Fiber Mini C250 Quadcopter Frame Kit for FPV Mini Quadcopter Part | $37.99
Motors | 4pcs EMAX RS2205 2300KV Brushless Motor 2CW 2CCW for QAV250 QAV300 FPV Racing Quadcopter | $78.79
ESC's | Crazepony 4pcs Littlebee 20A Mini ESC Oneshot125 Electronic Speed Controller 2-4S Brushless for FPV Multicopter Quadcopter | $39.99
Props | Hooshion® 16 pcs 8 pairs GemFan HD HQ 5030 5x3 CW CCW Propeller for Mini QAV250 Quadcopter (Black+Orange) | $12.59
Connectors | XT60 Drone Connectors 5 Pairs (5 Male and 5 Female) | $2.96
Battery | Turnigy 2200mAh 3S 20C Lipo Pack | $16.70
AV Antenna | Anbee® FPV 5.8Ghz Circular Polarized Clover Leaf Antenna High Gain Aerial Set w/RP-SMA Plug | $10.98
Camera | SC2000 600TVL D-WDR DNR Board Camera SONY Super HAD CCD for FPV, 2.8mm Lens, IR Blocked Filter | $33.99
| total | $352.85

Like I said I break them pretty quick... but this is my fav right now. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IZC6C8E/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Syma 107's are incredibly durable and easy to fly.

http://www.amazon.com/Syma-S107-S107G-Helicopter-Colors/dp/8499000606

Super cheap too, but it does look like a "regular looking helicopter".

This line of quadrocopter is a great place to start. These little guys are very affordable and robust.

Amazon makes a huge difference, price wise. What is your budget on a battery/charger?

Cheapest LiPo Charger- $22

3s 45c LiPo - $14

This a really cheap setup that will give you all the power you need.

Every thermoelectric device I've seen consumes a pretty significant amount of power (~20W on one of the ones I've played with, which the one pictured looks very similar to). A LiPoly pack that can do that for an hour (with a suitable converter in between, I'm assuming ~80% efficiency) would need to be ~24Wh, for a 3-cell pack (nominal voltage 11.1V) this is ~2200mAh. Here is an example of a pack that can do that. The article also says they run it 5s on, 10s off, which would approximately triples that runtime to 3 hours (followed by ~4-5 hours charging, based on nearly identical packs I have for various things).


That said, the batteries shown in the article look more like a 2-cell pack of approximately 1100mAh (hard to guess though, since I can't see the pack fully), so they're either running much less power to the TECs than their upper limit, or they're not running it for very long (~1 hour).

So, it needs a decent sized battery, but if you only want to run it for a couple hours, it probably won't be too bad.

It seems that indeed we want to replicate the 'astronaut backpack' from your event company, though probably with a more Dr. Seus visual. Fortunately weight isn't much of an issue. We perform as a group so we can just rotate the backpack between performers. The "ideal" solution would be to use something like drill batteries so we could swap them out as needed. I really have no idea how much power a bubble machine would use relative to the energy stored in a car battery.

So to check if I'm reading this right

If we went with a SLA battery, which is a lot cheaper than a LiPo battery for the same amount of power, we'd need...

1. A SLA battery
   
2. An inverter that converts to 120v-60hz home voltage
   
3. The cabling between the battery and the inverter. This is the part I don't know how to do.
   
4. A battery charger for charging up the battery between gigs.
   
5. Additional: We'd probably need some sort of switch somewhere to turn the device on and off without unplugging it from the inverter.
   
   One other concern is that if the bubble machine is on a moving person, most bubble machines have a shallow resevoir and will slosh easily. How was the bubble astronaut setup?
   
   Edit: Also I'm trying to do electrical math for how long batteries last, and brain is melting a bit. So just using examples
   
   Bubble machine : http://amzn.com/B000LXTKMK
   Battery : http://amzn.com/B0072AEY5I
   
   The bubble machine draws 500 milliamps of power, which is .5 amp. The battery has 2200 mAh of power. So if I’m reading how it works correctly, it’s a matter of just dividing the milliamps of power into the mAh and you get about four hours of power. Is that right?
   
   

> Eachine Wizard x220

Tattu makes some good batteries, both 3s and 4s.
https://www.amazon.com/Tattu-Battery-1300mAh-11-1V-Airplane/dp/B013I9RLVK/ref=sr_1_6?s=toys-and-games&ie=UTF8&qid=1495748569&sr=1-6&keywords=3s+lipo+battery

I have 3 Lumenier lipos and each one is great. Mine are 1850 3s, 2250 3s, and 2250 4s. For your size I wouldn't go past 1850 (and even that's a little long), they get pretty big and heavy after that. Worked good on my 280, but obviously that much bigger than a 220.

Traxxas 50k is optimal for cubes IMO. Maru is light and doesn't last long or give as much of a buttery feel. It's good for short speed boosts, but I don't like it in the long run. 50k is pretty nice once broken in. It works for both the hardware and pieces

http://www.amazon.com/Traxxas-5137-Differential-Oil-Weight/dp/B000BOLVFI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1462239118&sr=8-1&keywords=traxxas+50k

As seen it is frequently bought together with cubes

A Syma S107 RC Helicopter. <30 bucks, and friggin awesome. I've been playing with mine for weeks.

If you wanna give money to Reddit, use the link, (and/or read comments), in qgyh2's post

The only problem with 3ch helis is they have the controls reversed on the transmitter, so you'll end up learning the wrong way. If you're never planning on upgrading to "real" helis (4ch fixed pitch with swashplate, 6ch collective pitch with swashplate) then this won't be an issue and you can just buy the cheap ones and have fun. If this is the case I suggest something like a syma s107

If you want to learn the real control scheme (mode 2) then you can start with an easy double horse 9116 that will auto-balance when you let go of the control stick (thanks to the weighted flybar) which makes it a good beginner heli.

I am a beginner in fpv flying who just got a maiden flight of my x220 today and here are my thoughts.

tldr; x220 is too dangerous to recommend to a first time flyer so get a Hubsan X4 or similar quad to practice with since it's way cheaper.

This was the first ever drone I bought and is what I started with (Jun 2015). It was way harder than I thought it'd be but I eventually got a feel for it and got a Hubsan X4 (Nov 2015) after researching for a first "real quad". It was a huge step in difficulty but after a year I am very comfortable in the Expert flying mode. I can full throttle it into the corner of my wall and quickly pull back, operate it with the front facing any direction, orbits, yaw spins, etc.

The x220 was a completely different level. During my short flight I had to focus on just hovering and could only move it in the direction I was facing and this was only in angle mode which is basically auto leveling afaik. Regular mode I could just hover. Remember too that this is all LoS and not FPV. I got a pair of FatSharks setup but am not near comfortable enough to use them in flight.

This thing is a beast and super dangerous so I would not recommend it to someone who has never flown a quad before. I'm not sure how good sims are for learning but I would look into a Hubsan X4 to learn with since its relatively cheap and has that expert mode to work up to. You can also fly it indoors during the winter and outdoors when its nice out.

It should of came with one. Did you get the $200 one? Best bet would be Amazon 3 days.

(3 s)[https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B013I9RLVK/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1486858191&sr=8-1-spons&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=3s+lipo+battery&psc=1]

(4s)[https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B013I9RSEU/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1486858270&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=4s+lipo+battery&dpPl=1&dpID=41BMq3RoUYL&ref=plSrch]

Thanks for the answers!

Part 1:
After thinking about Hubsan x4 vs Syma x1 carefully and researching on google, I still decided to go with Hubsan X4, mainly because I will probably have to be flying indoors since it's going to start snowing here pretty soon. :(

1. http://www.amazon.com/Hubsan-H107L-Mini-RTF-Quadcopter/dp/B00IZC6C8E.
   
   I will also buy the propeller guard. What I am curious about is, seeing as the flight time is only a little over 5 minutes, what extra batteries should I get for it and what charger? Would these do?
   
   
2. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B3GP1R2/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A329XU3OEAWG5H
   
3. http://www.amazon.com/ThinkMax%C2%AE-In-Battery-Charger-Hubsan/dp/B00LGWQ4FG/ref=pd_bxgy_t_text_y
   
   Part2:
   Oh, that was my bad. A week or so ago, we were thinking about getting a hexacopter with a gopro and later upgrading it to be able to lift dslr devices, hence the second dslr gimbal. But seeing as gopro4 has some pretty good quality, we probably won't need to be lifting dslrs any time soon. Is the gimbal we get with f550 kit any good? Also, the f550 kit says we need to get a controler, but I have no idea which one.
   
   The FPV you recommended is this one, right?
   
   
4. https://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__66474__Skyzone_Plug_N_Play_FPV_500_Set_With_TS58500_TX_RC832_RX_Sony_700CCD_and_C_P_Antennas.html
   
   We would probably need to get an aditional controler with LCD screen, right?

I'd recommend Traxxas 50k You can usually get it for pretty cheap at a local Hobby RC store or here on amazon

Hubsan X4

Orrrr with a camera for $13 more here

This guy is a micro, but incredibly tough and a great starter/learner. Get extra props or the prop guards.

RC cars are fun to play with. I got an RC18 a while back and it is a blast to bash around. If you want, you can get really into upgrading / modifying them. I kept mine stock, to avoid dumping too much money into it!

Edit: If you want something cheaper, this helicopter is pretty rad.

The most popular seems to be Traxxas 50k. It's pretty cheap; I'd give it a shot.

I would recommend wraith32 escs if you're going to spend that much money. They support a higher dshot and are rated for more amps.

https://www.fpvmodel.com/wraith32-32bit-35a-blheli_32-esc-dshot1200_g1271.html

You should get a Pagoda-2, it's designed to work with a case which protects the axial ratio of the antenna.

https://www.banggood.com/5_8-GHz-Pagoda-Omnidirectional-FPV-Flat-Panel-Antenna-LHCPRHCP-SMA-Male-p-1159835.html?rmmds=search

And lastly those batteries are good but they're cheaper on amazon

https://www.amazon.com/Tattu-Battery-1300mAh-14-8V-Airplane/dp/B013I9T0T6

I got the L. It was around $50. Actually, lemme grab the link.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IZC6C8E/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Are you sitting me. I coulda got one with a camera for $10 more!?!?!

You should try Rubik's Cube lube. It is rated by viscosity and weight 5 is pretty thick.

https://thecubicle.us/cubicle-silicone-lube-c-35_64.html

EDIT: Found a good cheap alternative too which has around the same viscosity of around weight 4 of above.

http://www.amazon.com/Traxxas-5137-Differential-Oil-Weight/dp/B000BOLVFI

It's a Syma S107G, they're dirt cheap, great fun too.

taking it apart and cleaning the pieces with a cloth might help if there's any dust/dirt buildup slowing your cube down

otherwise i recommend buying something like lubicle speedy to lube your cube with, i personally use traxxas 50k but some people don't like the feel it leaves on larger cubes compared to a thinner lube like lubicle speedy

Yes that is the one I currently have. I also believe based on the current running of the 1800MaH battery pack that it wont be able to handle a LiPo battery. It takes 2 hours because its the standard crappy wall charger that came with the car, so I know I need a new charger. I see alot of recommendations to get one of these http://amzn.to/1rpiWDq . Is there a reason to not go big on the LiPo right now? I want something that can be used on a future RC car, and if I can get something decent now I wouldnt mind. Is there specific ESC you might recommend to run on this buggy with a LiPo battery and a brushed motor? I just want to be able to upgrade in the future and any purchases I make on this just transfer them over. I should have gone brushless (DOH).

was thinking of going with this ESC : http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__32025__HobbyKing_X_Car_45A_Brushed_Car_ESC.html.
Is there something I can get that would allow me to run a slightly bigger battery since I am limited to 7.4v-2s?
Can you help me choose a battery with power and long run time?

It's not directly trees related, but I spend twenty USD on a toy remote control helicopter a few weeks back (http://www.amazon.com/Syma-S107-S107G-Helicopter-Gyro-/dp/B00F4WMAAW/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1419348786&sr=8-2&keywords=toy+helicopter) and it's very fun to fly after burning.

Can't go wrong with the Hitech X4. One of the best purchases I've made in the micros.

If your just trying to find a lubricant for your speed cube. I think your better off with [traxxas 50k] (http://www.amazon.ca/Traxxas-5137-Differential-Oil-Weight/dp/B000BOLVFI). Traxxas is good and plus its 10$.

If your settle on getting silicone spray. I heard you should get CRC silcone spray.

I had bought a HobbyZone Champ RTF (https://www.amazon.com/HobbyZone-HBZ4900-Champ-RTF-Airplane/dp/B003DZ35GK/ref=sr_1_5) as a starter plane that was cheap and easy to get started with. It was pretty easy to get going and i've made some minor repairs.

However, now that I've trashed this (flying in too windy conditions and in a bad environment), I'm considering next steps to get into this hobby more. I want something more robust but not sure how much money I want to sink into it.

$20 RC mini helicopter!

My brother got one and its pretty cool flying around with precise control

Your best bet is to order it online. It does depend on what lube you want, if you want the professional lube, get it from SCS or Cubicle, but if you just want some simple lube, get some Traxxas on Amazon. https://www.amazon.com/Traxxas-5137-Differential-Oil-Weight/dp/B000BOLVFI/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=silicone+lube+traxxas&qid=1563613705&s=gateway&sr=8-5

No idea how much they draw, but I'm using this 2200mAh 20C battery with no issues:

https://www.amazon.com/Turnigy-2200mAh-20C-Lipo-Pack/dp/B0072AEY5I/

Your diagram is exactly how I wired mine, only difference is I spliced together the negatives to save wire. Should be good to go.

$6 More and you can get a Remote Control Helicopter!

I have 2 of them. They're great!

http://www.amazon.com/Syma-S107-S107G-Helicopter-Yellow/dp/B004A8ZRB0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1347027157&sr=8-1&keywords=helicopter

I bought these ones and they've worked out really well. They are slightly thicker than the OEM ones, but I haven't had a problem getting them in or out. I agree capacity-wise they generally don't provide much more flight time than OEM, but I've found I get significantly more time if I charge and then immediately use. Even charging in the morning for evening flying seems not quite as long. It's not just the aftermarket ones either.

No, this is what many people use for cubes. It works great and it is a lot less expensive than other lubes. It is meant for plastic parts on RC cars, so it is completely silicone based. This weight is not reasonable for cubes, so many people use 50k weight. You can get some here.

Edit: Also, the 500k is going to be extremely viscous, don't use it for cubes. This person is doing it for fun, not to improve their cube.

it depends on the lube, if you want a durable lube then i suggest traxxas 50k -> https://www.amazon.com/Traxxas-5137-Differential-Oil-Weight/dp/B000BOLVFI

it's a huge bottle and is cheap and is often used in cubing :) it will last you a year or more

may i recommend you and your friends pool 45 dollars and have the time of your lives with a hubsan x4 H107L

Ah, thank you for clarifying

It's this one: GoolRC FS-i6 AFHDS 2A 2.4GHz 6CH Radio System Transmitter for RC Helicopter Glider with FS-iA6 Receiver https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00VE3PZ3Y/ref=cm_sw_r_taa_WKGOybBQJ7P6M

I saw that there are a few sim adaptors but it's kind of daunting not knowing which ones are good or junk

These are the ones I use on my Gigabyte Aorus B450i mobo - 2pcs 2.4G 5.8G FPV TX Antenna RPSMA Male Dipole Whip FPV Antenna for FPV Multicopter Racing Drone Quadcopter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071LMRK36/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_4a5ODb60E28V4

Works very well

You should check out this remote-controlled helicopter for about $20. I just got one to give away, felt compelled to test it out and it is awesome!

Ah, thanks. One last question, would you happen to know how much lube is in this bottle? I can't find an amount anywhere, but I'd like to get a ballpark estimate of how long it'll last.

>Next question is controllers and goggles.

If you're not on a tight budget, the best things to get would be the FatShark Dominator V3's (goggles), and the FrSky Taranis X9D Plus (transmitter). You'll find it hard to find someone to argue against either of those.

Aside from that, for the receiver get a FrSky D4R-ii, and run it in PPM mode. For batteries, I used 1300mah 3s at first, and moved to 1300mah 4s once I wanted to take the training wheels off.

Edit: I also got a D4R-ii mount and a GoPro mount. You will break the D4R-ii mount eventually, so I recommend getting 2. The last thing you would need (if you don't have) is a LiPo charger, and maybe a parallel charging board if you want to charge all of your batteries at once.

Once you have all of that + your Vortex, you are ready to go.