(Part 2) Reddit mentions: The best rc vehicles & accessories

Yep, the DIY is entirely solder based. Its literally basic aeronautical/electronic engineering when designing a quad. The thing is they break pretty easy with beginners flying and doing the building, let alone a bunch of kids.

If your going to do this I would recommend looking into tiny whoops for the kids to get into. They are super cheap and can be modified almost to the scale of a full miniquad except on a much smaller scale. They can be fully tuned and modified as heavily as you want and the kids would get the basic concept of how a quadcopter works. You can just buy all the parts for them and teach them how to assemble them. Assembly requires no soldering unless your installing a camera or new power connectors. They are super fun for beginners and can be built pretty tough. They don't go super fast but they can be modified heavily to make them zip, which makes them safe yet fun. They don't hold up amazing outside, but they do pretty good. Since they are so small you can make super fun indoor tracks with loops for them to fly though. Just flying around a house becomes a big jungle gym when your that small.

For tiny whoops you really just need the following parts
Frame - This frame is not designed for the whoops, but with a couple snips of the battery holder and some foam inserts it becomes one of the best. Its also cheap...

Flight controller These flight controllers will give you the functionality of full mini quad running betaflight. This will allow you to fully configure and tune them on your computer allowing you an opportunity to teach them how a flight controller works. I would recommend looking up Joshua Bardwell's youtube channel and looking at his PID tuning classes. I won't get into the details but PID (proportional integral derivative) tuning is the mathematical filtering your flight controller is doing behind the scenes. Your flight controller is taking in information from its measurement devices (acceloromiter, gyroscope, and sometimes even barometers) and running it against the values you give it to check for divergence of error from the desired values and compensating for it by applying filters. Basically it allows you to make your quadcopter fly the way you want it to fly. You can make it fly loosy goose or like an automated robot and almost every quadcopter made uses this type of system behind the scenes. Do note that the larger the quad the more you can work with in terms of the software controlling the system. These tiny whoops can be locked in with tuning but you have to remember they still only weigh like 10 grams.

Motors These motors are the best in the sense of range of performance. If you got some of these sample packs you can mix and match motors to show what a motor with higher kv does compared to one thats lower. Higher kv on these motors = more power but more power draw and less flight time. This is also effected by the propellers you are using.

Props The frame comes with some props but you can lose them pretty easy. Nothing really special about these but they get the job done. Also it helps to chop off two of the blades on each prop to make them more efficient for a little power loss.

Extras-- I don't know if your looking to get into fpv with the kids but the whoops are able to support a small camera and you can fly them with with either a monitor or goggles. This stuff can be found on tiny whoops website or youtube. If you need any help selecting stuff feel free to message me.

Other necessities--
Radio Your gonna need a radio and I'm not sure how to make this cheaper. Radios are really just something most people only buy one of and they spare no expense if they use it a lot. The only cheaper radio on the market that is worth looking at is the flysky radios, but I'm not sure if they would work with the acrowhoop board. You have to have an frsky radio for a frsky board or a spektrum radio for a spektrum board for these.

This got kinda long so I'm gonna cut it here. If you need any help just let me know.

Can you do this? I came out with a build for $206 with some decent parts:

FC: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MS3X1BF/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A2V5MVAECJYWCD&psc=1 (this is not a great one, but it will do)
ESCs: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0786FQJ7F/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=A1LU71BLX914GS&psc=1 (32 bit ones even - very future-proof, but quality could be iffy)
Motors: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073VMS4C8/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?smid=A1ZTBUF0TDJOMN&psc=1 (these are really great motors for the price. You can get cheaper, but these are worth it)
Frame: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N0W2NOS/ref=ox_sc_act_title_4?smid=A1LU71BLX914GS&psc=1 (this is a great frame and very roomy for a first-time build.)
Radio: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01EZJBTAG/ref=ox_sc_act_title_5?smid=A1PJ0S5YOZYEO4&psc=1 (the FlySky bundle)

Total: $206.78

Here's why I wouldn't do this, though. First, that radio. It's not a great radio. Why buy that when for a couple of bucks more you can order a Taranis X7? The Taranis will be the ONLY radio you will likely ever need for a long time. Not only does it run FrSky, which is the best radio system out there, but it has a module bay that you can use for DSM/toy grade stuff, etc. Yes, Amazon's price is way too high for this, but your radio is not something that I'd cheap out on. When you're talking a $40 difference for something that will not be very expandable versus one of the best radios ever made, I'd go for the Taranis.

The other big drawback - your budget is gone, and you don't have a battery, charger, etc. You also have no spare props, and you will need lots of props if you're flying.

Plus, IMHO, flying a 250-size line-of-sight isn't much fun. That's in large part due to my crappy eyesight, but if I'm close enough to have a clear view of my orientation I'm too close for comfort. I've seen some AMAZING LOS flying before, but it's just not my cup of tea.

If you want to stick with Amazon and about $200, here's an option:

Radio: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XQWQ7C3/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=AK3V5KK2JCVKS&psc=1
Whoop: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073P5777Z/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=A3GZUGKBRUI9VM&psc=1

Total: $194.98 - ready to fly, with battery and basic charger.

Here's why I think the Whoop is a better choice: you can crash a Whoop and have a much smaller chance of breaking something expense. They're fun to fly both LOS and FPV. This one runs Betaflight so you can get used to that software. Replacement parts are cheap. If it's raining, you can fly. You can fly at night. You can fly in your kitchen. You can annoy the living daylights out of your pets. You can fly around your kids without worrying about them catching a prop and getting hurt.

Did I mention Whoops are FUN?

Plus, you have a transmitter that you will keep using for a long time, not one that's basically a small step up from toy grade.

The downside is that you're not really building it yourself, although if you get the desire to do so you can upgrade a piece at a time for really cheap.

If you really want to build a larger quad, you're going to have more luck on a site like Banggood where your money will stretch farther. Amazon is much better with quad parts, but they're still charging a premium and selection is spotty.

So a Tiny Whoop is a 66mm quad thats not really designed for outdoors. Its VERY VERY small - no more than 2-3mph of wind. You could get one with camera, upgraded motors and a controller for < $120, easily. I have one and love it for bashing around my house or office - its really not for a large outdoor space, but is a ton of fun indoors.

The atom is a full on brushless quad, writ small. You can either build it yourself for around $300, or buy ones built for $320 from Helipal (hint, its a tough build, and if its your first you might not want to build it). While people do fly them inside, it doesn't have protected props or anything and its very powerful, so it might not be good for indoors until you get very good or have a very large (like gym sized) space. I have one and even with the lower power 1104 motors I wouldn't fly it inside. If you want a brushless indoor quad, the Lady Owl might be a better choice given its a similar size and integrated prop protection. You could build a lady owl for about the same price ($320). A 610mah 3S battery should get you 7+ mins.

As for radio. For a Tiny Whoop you need a spektrum compatible radio, so you can do a small cheap MLP4DSM for $40, or you can move up to the Devo series (The 7e is popular). You could move all the way up to the Taranis X9D and add an OrangeTx modules (make sure to get version 1.2) and control anything Spektrum and anything FrSky from 1 radio. I currently run the very similar 9XR Pro radio with Orange and XJT modules. The 9XR Pro is $70, plus $35 for a XJT module and $35 for an OrangeTX module.


For a receiver - there's one builtin into the Inductrix, so no need there. For a small build like the Atom or Lady Owl, you'll want a smaller SBUS-based receiver like the FrSky X4R-SB or the XSR. They use a better protocol for communication and respond faster, and are only about $10 more than the D4R-II - about $35.

Goggles: I've had Teleporters (terrible), Attitudes (acceptable), have used Dom HDs and Dom V3s (very nice, but not worth the Money IMO) and currently run the Skyzone Sky02 v3, which have been my favorite. Diversity antennas, 40ch, builtin DVR and about $360.


Given your budget, I'd get both if you have that 10k sq foot space.

Get the inductrix, camera, motors and batteries for about $100 all in.
Get the atom pre built (or build yourself) for about $340.
Get the taranis and orange module for about $280
Get fat sharks or sky's for $300-$500.

All told $1000-1200

The first blades I linked, the self tightening ones are very close. However slightly different. More to the point they aren't made by DJI. You can get either type really (DJI or 3rd party) but I've had great luck with the MayTech blades. The DJI ones are labeled as 9" and the MayTech ones are labeled as 9.4", they may be different sizes in which case you'd not want to mix them. If I were you I'd just grab about 4 pairs (2 full sets) or more of 9"+ blades (either self-tightening or normal with prop nuts). If you get prop nuts now you can get cheaper blades more easily and have more options later.

While the ones I've linked I've had good luck with I'd urge caution when buying generic blades from cheapo unknown brands. Some of them are really good and some of them can come extremely imbalanced. If they come imbalanced your quad will vibrate harder putting the internals under greater stress, making your video blurry or shaky and reducing thrust efficiency mitigating battery life.

If you're going to try out different blades a Prop Balancer would be a good investment. Basically you clamp the propeller on to it and its super low friction bar will cause the heavy blades to hang lower. You take it off the stand and use a fine grain sand paper (I prefer a sanding sponge) to slowly remove material from the heavier side. Then put it back on, weigh it and repeat until it basically has no side heavier than another. There are a lot of tutorials on YouTube about this.

Just the yesterday when I was taking off a strong gust pushed my Phantom over and my carbon fiber blades ground against the concrete leaving ugly frayed rough edges unbalancing the blades and causing increased wind resistance at the tip. When I got back home I sanded out the rough edges and re-balanced them. They aren't perfect anymore but they are close and I've extended their usable life. Once you've got some substantial pits in your blades or they are super-imbalanced it's time to replace them.

Those batteries are a little chunky for a 250. I have some and they are slightly bigger and heavier than my 2200mAh zippy compact but I like to fly 1500 zippy the best on mine. I got the 2206 motors on my h250cf 3k pro and just added 20a esc and 6040 props to it last night. It's a beast! I use that same charger and it's great. I say go with the 99$ kit h250cf pro kit.
I would also not recommended the flysky fs-t6 I was seeing brown outs with it and left negative review on Amazon for the product. I now use a taranis and it really is amazing! Here is my speed run this weekend. I need to tilt my fpv camera so I can go faster and see where I'm going. This isn't all she has by any means. This was warm up before I went tree cruising
RCX H250CF 3K Pro 3/1/15: http://youtu.be/p6pV1zKdQTw

>Thanks for the response! Which 1300mah batteries did you purchase?

>I have a chunk of amazon credit that I'd like to use to get the rest of my stuff (even if it comes at a slight premium), so I plan on getting my prop balancer, charger, etc from there if possible.

>This is the charger

>And I'm considering a few of these batteries

Seems like everyone is assuming he wants a kit and to build it himself, but I don't see that you said that. So, is that the case?

Will this be his first multicopter? If so, I would recommend something that is ready to fly (RTF) right out of the box. There are lots of good options, but I really enjoy my Hubsan x4 simply because how easy it is to get replacement parts. The price and reliability are nice as well ;)

You can put him together a nice "kit" with a hard case, spare parts, extra batteries for about $175 $135 on Amazon. It will be RTF, but also give him room to learn about the platform and repair mistakes.

EDIT: Actually a little cheaper... if he has not flow before, this is a fun, cheap christmas present.

Complete Starter Kit for Hubsan x4 | ------------
---|---
Hubsan H107C | $54.00 |
Carrying Case | $24.99 |
Crash Kit | $17.50 |
5 Extra Batteries | $18.39 |
Battery Charger | $6.36 |
Prop Guard | $2.73 |
------------|------------
Total | $123.97

That one on amazon you found looks really bad to be honest. When something breaks you'll have trouble finding a replacement, the radio is proprietary and will never work with anything else, it's got tons of plastic parts, and the battery is probably crap. Even if I'm completely wrong about it and it isn't garbage, there's no way it's worth $450, since you can actually get a pretty decent set up with that much.

There aren't going to be many good full kit options out there. The only one even worth considering is the eachine wizard, and even that is dubious at best. Instead you'll want to buy the radio, goggles, and then a BNF (bind and fly) drone all separately, which means you choose which receiver to put in it (usually when you buy it, you select which one when you add it to your cart and they'll put it in for you), and when you get it you just bind it to your radio.

For a radio, get the Taranis QX7. There are several options to consider, but you really can't go wrong with this, it's worth every penny: https://www.amazon.com/Frsky-Taranis-Transmitter-Racing-Drones/dp/B06XQWQ7C3/ref=sr_1_1?s=toys-and-games&ie=UTF8&qid=1510987554&sr=1-1&keywords=QX7

This is a FRSKY radio, which means when you're buying the drone, just select FRSKY version so you get the right receiver in it.

Check out the channel uavfutures, he reviews a lot of prebuilt stuff, as opposed to other channels which review individual components. He does really clickbaity titles which can be difficult to get through, but check out his playlists as they're a bit better organized.

For goggles, there are so many to consider across a huge price range. The big two "types" are box style vs compact style. Boxes are big and bulky, but also a lot cheaper. Usually under $100. Most compact goggles are way up in the $300-$500 range, but there are a handful like the eachine EV100 and F640 that manage to get that slick form factor in at just over $100. Here's UAVFutures' playlist on them: https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLP0PoGwU8OPYW549moGE6OSj5qNa8vx67, but if you prefer written down with way more detail and comparisons, Oscarliang is a fantastic resource as well: https://oscarliang.com/fpv-goggles-review-fatshark-skyzone/

It's also worth noting, since you asked, that latency is not really going to be an issue as long as you're using fully analog 5.8GHZ, which is going to be basically anything you see on uavfutures. Latency is only a thing on digital, like those shitty wifi cameras that connect to your smartphone. There are a couple digital FPV systems worth using, but they're still very new and thus very expensive.

Field of view is very important. The more you see, the more awareness you have. However that's a property of the camera lens, not the goggles. You can also swap out the lens very easily if you want it wider or different. I personally use this lens which is branded for gopro, but they're all the same.

Field of view in goggles is different, it's the size of the image in front of you. Getting wider field of view in this case won't actually allow you to see more, it'll just be stretched. You don't want to go too small or it'll be hard to see, but you also don't want to go too large or you'll have to move your eyes around the screen to focus on different things. Not too many goggles go outside of either extreme, so you probably won't need to worry about this part.

For the drone itself, again, UAVFutures. He reviews a ton. Just watch through a bunch of them and see which one catches your eye: https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLP0PoGwU8OPaYMlsaWxSg7xr7xZXbxhf1

Congrats on the new toy. Looks like a decent power system (Mamba Monster/Castle motor) I agree with the 4S for starters to help learn control.

The challenge is the ESC is wired with a single battery lead (looks like a Traxxas plug going into a XT60 adapter), so the previous owner must have run a single battery. 4S batteries can be more expensive than two 2S, for example from Amazon right now:

• Gens ace 7.4V 2S 5000mAh 50C hardcase are $37/each x 2 = $74
  
• Gens ace 14.8V 4S 5000mAh 50C hardcase are $86/each
  
  Plus you'll get half the run time with a single 4S battery (5000mAh) versus two 2S (2 x 5000mAh = 10000mAh).
  (Note: I'm not recommending Gens Ace brand as I don't have any experience with it, it is only for example purposes)
  
  
  Any chance you have a buddy that can solder? If not you might be able to find an adapter but most are made with thin wire (thinner than the wire on your ESC) that won't support the current draw of the Mamba ESC. Some of my local hobby stores (LHS) will solder a connection if you buy the parts/battery there. You might check your LHS for help, and it is always good to make friends that know more than you about the hobby!
  
  Enjoy!

I think there's only one FPV kit specifically for the X5, but it's a drop-in replacement for the stock camera, which is nice. It's heavier, and the quad is a bit of a pig with it mounted, but it still flies pretty well; you just can't fly as fast, and definitely can't come in as hot when you land. Also note that it didn't really say the exact tx power, but it's almost certainly over 25 mW, so expect to get your ham ticket if you want to be law-abiding and/or want to join the cool kids over at /r/amateurradio.

This is what I bought, though you might find it a little cheaper elsewhere.

Brushless setups run so much cooler and they don't have the brushes that generate more friction, or pop off the commutator on a hard landing. They are a little more expensive because you will need to upgrade your ESC to do it, but it is well worth the extra expense. I purchased this kit based on a lot of great reviews and recommendations, and I am very happy with it, it accepts up to a 3S, and runs incredibly well.

https://www.amazon.com/Castle-Creations-Sidewinder-Waterproof-NC1406-5700KV/dp/B00AQYMNE6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1494174438&sr=8-1&keywords=castle+sidewinder+3

This one has a 5700kV rating. The Castle Sidewinder is sold in several configurations, I have the 3800kV one on my 1/10.

Yeah it's a pretty common cheap tx for beginners. I can't find any mode 2 tx on Amazon. I think this one is a mode 2 so should work.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0744DPPL8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_cpaSBbFCTAAFP


And here's the cable you need for use with simulators or any game.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01AAETLVY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_XuaSBbYTBB400


Or if you want a better Tx that's 'futureproof' consider paying more and getting a Taranis Qx7. It's about 100 bucks and both the hardware and firmware are better in quality and there is gobs and gobs of support online as it's one of the most used TX in the whole RC hobby. Plus there's no extra adapter cable needed to use with Sims. Any micro USB cable, plug it in to your PC and it's auto recognized by most Sims.

https://alofthobbies.com/frsky-taranis-q-x7.html
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XQWQ7C3/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fMaSBb5CRX90A

Hey! I sure will. Thanks for your reply. That sounds great. I'd like to experiment with the cheaper FPV goggles before I invest in something nice. One quick question for you on the transmitter, is the FS-I6x good?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0744DPPL8/?coliid=I24XHKH2B0O5Y8&colid=3E2Q40NU5VK0A&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

I don't mind spending $30-40 more to buy something that will last me through upgrades (FPV being the biggest one). I see it has 10 channels out of the box and is only like $10 more than the FS-I6. I appreciate the reply!

Traxxas is a company that makes lube for RC cars, but it works amazingly in cubes. Traxxas 50k works great for lubricating the core, Traxxas 10k works great for lubing the pieces, and Traxxas 30k is a great intermediate lube if you know what you want to use it for. Here's a link to a bundle of the 3 lubes on U.S. Amazon. You should be able to view the link and get a feel for the product so you can find it on an applicable online store in your country for purchase.

What do you want to do with it? You going to fool around a couple times or do you really want to have fun with it?
I regularly recommend cheap electronics from Amazon.

With this stuff you'll be ripping around about 40mph for 30 minutes per charge. You'll want new wheels and tires before long.

Brushless combo: $43
GoolRC 3650 3100KV/4P Sensorless Brushless Motor with 60A Brushless ESC（Electric Speed Controller）for 1/10 RC Car Truck https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CCRZD1Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_4zsqzbNCY5N14

Transmitter and Receiver: $42
FLYSKY RC 3 CH Transmitter TX FS-GT3B For CAR Boat 2.4Ghz 2.4g w/ Receiver https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HNJNXVY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_bBsqzbMWJ5NMH

LiPo Charger: $63
Genuine SKYRC iMAX B6AC V2 Dual Power (6Amps,50Watts) LiPo,LiHV,LiIon,LiFe,NiCd,NiMH,Pb Lead Acid AC/DC Professional RC Balancing Battery Charger & Discharger (Version 2) w/ Micro USB Port https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017Y2G4Y2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_pCsqzbSQ5PAK1

Lipo Battery: $34
Gens ace LiPo Battery Pack 5000mAh 50C 2S 7.4V HardCase 21 with Deans T Plug for RC Car Boat Truck Roar Approved https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00WOAWHUK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_XDsqzbQDQW2BC

LiPo Safe Bag: $8
Teenitor Fireproof Explosionproof Lipo Battery Safe Bag Lipo Battery Guard Safe Bag Pouch Sack for Charge & Storage 185x75x60mm Large size https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00T01LLP8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_HEsqzbS0EWKZZ

I appreciate the effort. This seems promising and may be the better idea, the other route I was going to take was the Bardwell kit with some other stuff.

https://store.rotorriot.com/bardwells-budget-build-kit/

https://www.racedayquads.com/products/rdq-series-1300mah-4s-100c-fpv-lipo-battery

https://www.amazon.com/usmile-receiver-Support-FS-iT4S-Evolution/dp/B07FMFG6Q3/ref=sr_1_1?s=toys-and-games&ie=UTF8&qid=1542217789&sr=1-1&keywords=fli14

https://www.amazon.com/Flysky-FS-i6X-Transmitter-FS-iA6B-Receiver/dp/B0744DPPL8

https://www.getfpv.com/new-arrivals/ev-peak-e3-falcore-edition-35w-3a-lipo-battery-balance-charger.html

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N4571Q6/ref=as_li_ss_tl?psc=1&linkCode=sl1&tag=fpvknowitall-web-20&linkId=6769f39dd3014cb5619db31a54b18438

https://www.racedayquads.com/products/rdq-quad-solder-38-62-0-8mm-100g

https://www.amazon.com/DOWELL-Stripper-Multi-Function-Tool%EF%BC%8CProfessional-Craftsmanship/dp/B06X9875Z7/ref=sr_1_4?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1542221619&sr=1-4&keywords=wire+stripper+and+cutter

https://www.amazon.com/NEEWER-Titanium-Nitride-Driver-Wrench/dp/B00CP2GGBI/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&qid=1488911480&sr=8-3&keywords=hex+driver&linkCode=sl1&tag=dre-youtube-20&linkId=d53d845db871ab90fe110b2918f60a7e

$381 no shipping/tax and the build kit comes with accessory kit including motor screws for CL1 5mm thick arms, double-sided tape, FC stack mounting screws, XT60 power lead, zip ties, and heat shrink.

​

Your idea seems like it may be "too little" for the project but I am honestly ok with that because I rather get something done then bite off something too big to chew and end up having to figure something out last second and it being a piece of crap.

​

So does that flight controller stick right into those frames and then you screw them in or something? You say I only need to solder the the power wires to the camera, where do the motors go? I probably sound like an idiot but I'm not really an electrician or carpenter, I don't build things, other then computers :P. I need to head off now so I can't do so much research right now and I spent all day researching today.. won't have much time tomorrow, we are going to tour a college. Can you recommend a good video that would go along with this build? Tomorrow, I am going to ask the teacher if the TV in the room I am presenting in has analog input, if not we go from there. We have access to a 3D printer but a lot of people are going to be using it most likely and I think its slow but I can definitely get the camera mount printed. Once again, appreciate the effort.

The charge time really isn't all that bad. It'll charge back up in 10-15 minutes. I really thought it'd bother me but I'm totally okay with it. This is the perfect starter copter to learn how to fly these things.

If it's really a deal breaker and you're okay with spending more, one of the cheapest way you're going to get significantly improved flight time would probably be a Hubsan X4, a 5 pack of batteries, a simple charger, and a prop guard for about $70 before tax.

I'd call that step 2 in the hobby though and would absolutely recommend the Cheerson CX-10 as step 1.

If it's useful, I too just got started, and built a similar drone. When it came to charging, I had to read a ton of stuff. Here's what I did (all non-referral Amazon links. you may find cheaper on banggood if you want to wait forever):

ISDT Charger

12v Power Supply

Balance Charger

To connect these up, it may be useful to have some extra XT60 plugs since the power supply won't have XT60, and neither does the balance charger.

With these optional parts, I was able to make a nice looking (and more safe) charger from the power supply, along with a 3d print available here


Voltmeter

Power plug

I found this to be a pretty fun project, and wasn't as expensive as some options I saw on HobbyKing or everywhere else. To be fair, it wasn't the cheapest option either.

Wow, this is great timing. I wasn't aware of this thread, but could certainly use some tech help regarding batteries/chargers. I recently bought a ISDT SC-608 LiPo smart charger. I bought a power supply off Amazon that had an XT-60 adapter and made an adapter to go from my Valken 7.4v 1300 maH batteries mini-tamiya to XT-60. Today however I received my power supply and plugged it into the wall. Its red light went on and I plugged it into my 608. The 608 turned on for a moment, then off again. The power supply light turned off and now just makes a high pitched noise. It seems that the power supply is broken, but I leave tomorrow afternoon and need a power supply for my charger. I was wondering if I could take a Lenovo laptop AC to DC cable, cut the Lenovo end off and solder on a XT-60 connector and it would work. The Lenovo charger is 20V 3.25 Amp (65 W?) and my charger can take 150W and 9V - 32V so I think it could work, but I dont want to break anything.

Broken power supply https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XQW36BL/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_JZJ4BbPT3YZJJ

608 charger https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072PRF3ND/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_I0J4Bb7MWRV4N

Valken 7.4v Lipo 1300 maH battery https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00TS7KONE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_l1J4BbD71A2HZ

The Lenovo power supply is just one I found at goodwill

I hope this was enough information and I appreciate any help you can give.

Edit: The battery is for a CM16 AEG, so I posted this here. Besides, I cant really find a subreddit more active than this that it would be relevant in.

Just about.

As the others are saying, get some foam board and build a Flite Test Tiny Trainer from the free plans. You can build this as a glider and throw it around until you're confident with the controls, then add a motor to make a trainer - and then build the 'sport' wing and upgrade the battery to make it aerobatic.

Others are recommending the FS-i6 transmitter, which is a good choice as it'll be good when you get a few more models - but you can go a little cheaper if you don't mind only having one model. $32. If you stay in the hobby you'll definitely want something better before long though - but if you get serious you might want something even better than the i6. After a few years most people are using transmitters in the $100-$300 range.

Here's a 1806 motor $9

Here's a 12amp ESC with a BEC $7 - many quadcopter ESCs don't have a BEC, which you need to power your servos.

Here's a pack of 5 servos for $11 so you have a spare

Two 2s 800mAh batteries for $20

Here's a $11 charger - this is another item you'll want to upgrade if you get into the hobby, so you can charge bigger batteries, or several at once.

4 props for a $1

That's $91, leaving you a bit for foam board, hot glue, music wire (for push rods) and postage.

These links are for reference - I've not tried this exact stuff, but it matches the requirements of the plane. With a bit of hunting you might find the same things even cheaper - especially as I ignored the postage.

In that case, I guess you could just buy a single bottle of 50k which will cost you around ~$20, which will still help you with the spring noise, but it is also the same price of the set in the regular amazon, so if you can source some from there, then it could save you some money than buying from amazon.in (also people say traxxas lasts forever, which makes it a good investment)

​

But if you're r e a l l y tight on budget, people say Gan Magic Lube is pretty nice and costs around ~$6 on thecubicle.com (idk about India prices), but won't really help with your spring problem.

Thank you for the advice! I am just using Eachine EV800 goggles with the Eachine ProDVR and this VTX. So while having nice DVR footage would be ideal, right now I'm just playing the budget game and making the best I can with this :) Sorry if the choppiness and all is an issue

Thank you for all that! That was a useful YouTube video, too.

I had to make the purchases yesterday, since I'll be playing with actors in the studio on Monday. That said, I still have time to buy some things.

It's a comfort that I seem to be on the right track. The biggest difference between what I bought and your suggestions is that you suggested I buy the Dock-Kings and other pricier receiver/converting gear. I'd appreciate if you could look at my list of purchased items to determine if you think it will work, or if you see some some red flags.

I suppose in the long run, if this theatre show concept shows promise, we would then invest in more reliable gear, such as no-compression wireless HDMI tx/rx. For now, here it is:

​

4 cameras:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06Y5D8SPZ/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (1S LiPo)

2 x https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06Y56RL5P/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (1S LiPo)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0184DVN4G/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (2S or 3S LiPo)

​

3 receivers (should I buy different antennae?):

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0774SMGQN/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

2 x https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01H36AIGY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

3 AC/DC adapters for the receivers:

3 x https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01ISM267G/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

3S LiPo (for 3S LiPo camera and try battery-powered Receiver)

2 x https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GF63645/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

Battery chargers

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00466PKE0/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/Battery-Charger-Channel-Inductrix-Connectors/dp/B074M6G2MD

​

Each receiver has an AV output + AV RCA cable. I'll plug in the RCAs from 2 or 3 receivers into this Switcher:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KXVBB7C/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

Using an RCA cable, connect the Switcher's Output to this RCA to HDMI converter:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07KTDG177/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

Then HDMI to projector.

​

Ta-da?

Hm. That’s disappointing, but not shocking.

Is that a 3S 2200 mAh 25 C Gens Ace pack?

If so, it should be plenty powerful to run your pick of two Foamblast Valkyries or Krakens, or MTB Neo Rhinos. Foamblast, OutOfDarts, and Containment Crew are probably the largest US-based retailers of the motors, though you might be able to find smaller Etsy shops and what not that are more local.

I’d also recommend picking up a different Set of flywheels and cage; metal flywheels perform a bit worse than stock ones, and the canted cage is prone to whirlibirding darts. Kuryaka’s Daybreak wheels and Cage combo for $25 is a pretty great deal, and will hit 150 FPS with a 41 mm cage and Valkyries.

Anything Nerf is fun, and there's plenty of Nerf sports equipment (like footballs) under $15 if their guns aren't your ideal gift (but the Nerf guns are fun).

Remote control helicopters (http://amzn.com/B00DPK11ZA) cost between $15 and $20. Remote control anything is fun though.

Robot stuff (http://amzn.com/B003GDDVPE) runs between $10-$20. Hex bugs (http://amzn.com/B00CMATSCC) are only $5.

Lego sets (http://amzn.com/B00NW2Q6ZG), K'nex sets (http://amzn.com/B00I2UZXZW), and Magic kits (http://amzn.com/B001BX3DQI), and paper airplane kits (http://amzn.com/B000MUQ2FU), which between around $10-$20.

Don't forget things kids can play together, like board games, cards (specially my favorite, Uno), dominos, etc.

These are all gifts that should work well for boys between 10 and 15.

Actually they're pretty fun. I have one similar to this one and it's awesome for flying around indoors.

I don't know if I would buy one from a mall kiosk though because the price would probably be super high.

But for $15 it's a blast.

Only problem is that the battery dies really fast.

Sure.. After all the reviews that I have seen.. The better flight time vs weight vs good punch... Are 205mAh, 230mAh.. Higher C rate better punch...
Ej:

Crazepony 4pcs 205mAh HV 1S Lipo Battery 30C 3.8V for Tiny Whoop Blade Inductrix Micro JST Connector https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MU0H1U0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_q.lPzbF7TJ2RP

Crazepony 4pcs 230mAh HV 1S Lipo Battery 30C 3.8V for Tiny Whoop Blade Inductrix JST-PH 2.0 Connector https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N0Z0ME2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_X.lPzb1J1Q3H8

IMPORTANT : Be sure that connectors on the batteries that you get are JST-PH 2.0, or PowerWhoop Connector..

Get a Dubro balancer and these should work good.
Use any nailpolish and apply incrimentaly to the back of prop towards tip untill perfectly balanced.

Rctimer is a bit slow with shipping but the price and CS is worth it.

http://rctimer.com/product-665.html

Or Amazon

https://www.amazon.com/Carbon-Fiber-Propellers-Pairs-1045/dp/B01I9EG08Y/ref=pd_sbs_21_img_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=GT194G3NXFE9N4A476XT

This is a good balancer.

https://www.amazon.com/Du-Bro-499-Tru-Spin-Prop-Balancer/dp/B0006N72Y8/ref=sr_1_1?s=toys-and-games&ie=UTF8&qid=1487510925&sr=1-1&keywords=dubro

Here is my setup. I have most of my parts here (just waiting on the motors, esc, and frame). If you have any feedback, I would love to hear it. Also, why 3 blade props? I don't see many of those.

Goggles: FatShark Predator V2 Video Glasses w/Transmitter and Camera

Antenna: ImmersionRC 5.8 GHz SpiroNET Antenna Set LHCP

Transmitter: Turnigy 9x

DragonFly32 PRO

Motors: 4 Sunnysky X2204S X2204 2300KV Brushless Motor CW For RC Model

ESC: Emax Simon 12A Brushless ESC Electronic Governor Supports 1-3S Small Axis

Frame Kit: LS4G H250 ZMR250 250mm Carbon Fiber Mini Quadcopter Micro Multicopter Frame Kit

Props: 5030 Airplane 2-blade Propeller Props 50x3 CW Multi-Copter Quad-Rotor 2-Pairs

Battery Charger: ORIGINAL SkyRC iMax B6 Super Multi Charger Balancer for Lithium (Li-po,), Ni-cd, Ni-mh, and Pb Battery

Battery: FLOUREON® 2 New 3S Lipo Battery 11.1V 2200mAh 25C RC Rechargeable Battery Pack with XT60 Plug for DJI Phantom Quadcopter, DJI Phantom FC40 Spare, Walkera E22RC, RC Helicopter, RC Airplane RC Hobby DIY Red

http://www.amazon.com/Du-Bro-499-Tru-Spin-Prop-Balancer/dp/B0006N72Y8
You'll need a prop balancer no matter what. vibrations cause multirotors to fly poorly.

Blheli ESC seem to be more popular nowadays than SimonK. Pick an ESC that can handle your peak current, plus, some overhead. The bigger ones that can handle more power generally are only a few dollars extra and should be more durable.

I'd recommend getting ESC and motors that can run on 3S and 4S. Once you've been flying on 3S for a long time, going to 4S makes flying more fun and exciting because you've suddenly got more thrust!

I prefer carbon fiber for larger props. plastic will flex and flutter at high rpm, robbing you of thrust and increasing power usage.

They specifically say it has a maximum transmission range of 1200m per FCC guidelines.

You will not get anywhere close to that in the city with the interference, especially because it is WiFi based instead of using their Lightbridge transmission technology like the P3A/P3P/P4, et cetera.

I recommend you pick up a set of Skyreat Parabolic Range Antennas from Amazon.

They cost $19.99 and extend range by quite a lot (several Amazon reviewers say that the antennas gave them more than a 1000m range boost). They will work for your Phantom 3 4K because it uses the same controller as the P3A and P3P, which those Skyreat antennas were designed for.

The problem with the Phantom 3 4K is really that it uses a WiFi downlink as opposed to Lightbridge like the P3A/P3P.

For the same price, I'd highly recommend the P3A if 4K isn't that important for you. Or, for $200 more, you get Lightbridge on the Phantom 3 Professional and can use the same batteries that you had used for your P34K.

Hope this was helpful.

OP - I'm in the same boat as you with just getting into this hobby. Get the Hubsan X4, or if you feel like committing a little bit more cash maybe the Blade Nano QX or the Blade 180 QX HD. Something like this will give you a good idea of if you like it and want to sink more money into it.

I've got the Hubsan X4 and I'm having tons of fun flying it. Buy the little $3.00 crash protector (http://www.amazon.com/Hubsan-Quadcopter-Propeller-Blades-Protection/dp/B00ECDRBHQ) and get a few extra sets of props. This is the <$50 route (or if you get the Hubsan w/ the Camera, $70ish route).

2- If you are just starting out, get 3s bats. They are a little more tame than the 4s bats. I'd get a minimum of 4. It's what i have currently, and it's fine if I'm just messing around in my yard, but as I make an afternoon with friends, I'm left out because I'm trying to use my batteries sparingly.

I don't plan on getting 4s until I'm in control of my quad with high rates on 3s.

3- Get something that is 60+watts. I have an 80W, and with that I have a balance board with it. You can then charge more than one at a time. http://amzn.com/B014ERISDK

I"m happy with this charger. http://www.amainhobbies.com/rc-airplanes/protek-rc-prodigy-touch-680-ac-lipo-life-nimh-ac-dc-battery-charger-6s-8a-80w-ptk-8513/p260579

It's great lube but doesn't really last long and doesn't add that much feeling to a puzzle. I only use it for MoYu magnetic pyraminx tips to make them faster and less dry and on my X-Man Bell Pyra to make it smoother.

Most people prefer heavier weight lube. If you were to buy lighter lube than try Traxxas 30k. The Cubicle lube line is very overpriced. You can buy it [here] (https://www.amazon.com/Traxxas-5136-30K-weight-differential/dp/B000BOLVF8) in larger quantities for cheaper. You can also buy bundles of 10k (very light), 30k (medium), and 50k (heavier) [here] (https://www.amazon.com/Traxxas-5136X-Differential-Oil-Kit/dp/B000BP1AIA/ref=sr_1_2?s=toys-and-games&ie=UTF8&qid=1486562813&sr=1-2&keywords=traxxas+50k) which is probably your best bet if you want a lot of lube for cheap.

Liquid silicone lubricants are more or less the standard.

http://www.amazon.com/Traxxas-5136X-Differential-Oil-Revo/dp/B000BP1AIA/ref=sr_1_2

This is a good buy. You get a pretty good amount of it, and you can mix different weights to get something you like.

I currently only have a single LiPO, which I wayyy overpaid for in a store, it's just a 2S 5000mAh 25C one that I paid $50 for in a store. Have some on order from Hobbyking for half that price. As far as charger goes, I just use a Venom PR2 because it gets the job done in a decent amount of time. For anything with a capacity over 6000mAh though, I would recommend getting a charger you can plug, say, a 25A power supply into. That way, you can basically charge the majority of batteries in less than an hour.

As far as a new motor goes for the Bandit, I wouldn't buy anything brushed. You say you're a beginner, so am I, but a week after I bought the brushed Traxxas Rustler, I went down to a LHS and bought a Castle Sidewinder 3 brushless motor/esc combo as well as a 2S LiPO. I get about 45mph with this setup, but if I was to get a 3S LiPO, I've been told that I can get upwards towards 70mph. So yeah, you COULD buy that Stinger, but seriously, in a week from then you will want more power lol.

Okay I'l definitely be buying the balancer/tester. It seems like all the chargers on hobyking worth buying are on back order. I was looking at this one on amazon because its fairly cheap would it be okay?

Emax Baby Hawk (amazon doesn't sell the BNF version):
https://www.emaxmodel.com/babyhawk-85mm-brushless-drone-bnf.html

Taranis Q X7:
https://www.amazon.com/Frsky-Taranis-Transmitter-Racing-Drones/dp/B06XQWQ7C3/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1504715829&sr=8-1&keywords=taranis+qx7

Eachine VR-007 Pro:
https://www.amazon.com/EACHINE-Goggles-Headset-Glasses-1600mAh/dp/B072M8FL3Z/ref=sr_1_2?s=toys-and-games&ie=UTF8&qid=1504715875&sr=1-2&keywords=eachine+vr+007

These are far from the best components you can buy, but for the money they're hard to beat. Also, I believe the Babyhawk comes with 1 battery. You'll definitely want a few more, as well as a charger.

Best value I know of is a Devo 7e for $60 and flashed with Deviation firmware to get DSM2/DSMX support.

Thanks for the response! Which 1300mah batteries did you purchase?

I have a chunk of amazon credit that I'd like to use to get the rest of my stuff (even if it comes at a slight premium), so I plan on getting my prop balancer, charger, etc from there if possible.

This is the charger

And I'm considering a few of these batteries

I went with a Turnigy 2200mAh 3S 20C Lipo Pack for the controller with this charger and they are XT60


Could I use the same charger for the Quad packs? I have not pulled the trigger on the Turnigy nano-tech 1300mAh 3S 45/90 Lipo Pack yet.


I'm guessing the recommendation for the 1800mah 25-35C is to fly slower at first right? We would by flying FPV but not racing it so I think that's probably a good recommendation.

Since we are already using 2200mAh 3S 20C with an XT60 connector could we just use the same exact pack for the quad? It's rated at 20 constant, 30 burst and we could always use a spare for the controller if we go with a lighter battery with higher discharge for the quad later.

We aren't carrying a GoPro or anything so it would probably support the 2200.

I am thinking about getting the following Syma FPV kit:

http://www.amazon.com/GoolRC-Real-time-Transmission-Display-Quadcopter/dp/B013HQCK88/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1457369103&sr=8-3&keywords=syma+fpv

and fitting it on a standard, DJI 450 knockoff quadcopter that I built. Would this work? What battery would I need to power the camera on the quad? I have spare batteries from an old Hubsan X4, would those work?
I understand this is cheapo, but any feedback or input would be great! Anyone with experience with this kit, please chime in.

Hey you're doing better than i did when i started. Built my first quad before i got goggles, too excited when it was finally done so i maiden flew it at dusk, did a punchout, lost orientation, gone forever over the woods :( lol so that epic fail drove me mad until i would finally get good at flying.

Good goggles are definitely high on the priority list!

This is a newer charger that is very impressive. $60 which is pretty low for a good charger, and it can output 300w/14A. Im thinking of getting one just because its so awesome.

Here is another popular one which is cheaper, but only outputs 50w/5A.

The output wattage is going to matter when you have multiple packs charging at the same time. I use a parallel balance board and charge 6 at a time. That would take hours at 50w.

I never bothered balancing my ZMR250 props, but for my big S800 Hexacopter I decided to get a Du-Bro 499 Tru-Spin Prop Balancer. It works amazingly well, and I like to think that it helped reduce jello in my video.

hmm those should be fine. I also run like 5 of these in my mix of batteries:

https://www.amazon.com/Crazepony-230mAh-Battery-Inductrix-Connector/dp/B01N0Z0ME2

They work great for me. Another thing thats super cheap and easy to try is swapping out the battery connector. I hear a lot of people talk about getting voltage sag making it hard to do flips and rolls and getting it fixed by just replacing the JST(1.25) connector. Never had the issue personally but I have seen a lottt of people talk about it happening to them.

Thanks for the info! Yes, these are Li-ion cells. The pack is used in an uplighting fixture. I've taken on the task of replacing the packs which are not lasting long enough: http://www.makystagelight.com/index.php?m=content&c=index&a=show&catid=2&id=9

I believe ElectricNed is correct about the type of charger: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01HXHGARY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

Any lipo charger will charge it with a balance board. Just get a charger thats low enough to do a 1C charge on a 200mah battery.

Personally I would just get a cheap balance board capable lipo charger. Can be had for $20+ for a decent one capable of charging that battery I would think.

Something like this will charge from .1A - 5A and has the balance ports built in. Just set it for .2A and let it go it will cut off when the lipo hits 11.1V. Just make sure you get some 4mm banana plug adapters that fit your battery or make one you can use with the gator clips.

Nothing special about them. Just follow the same rules you follow for your big lipos.

You'll need a prop balancer. This one on Amazon is pretty high rated but may be more than you need plus pretty expensive. I have something similar to this and it works for me. After you get one just do a search on YouTube for prop balancing.

This 5.8ghz FPV kit, if you are not scared of opening things up, get it and mod your x5c-1 with a built in FPV system...mine rocks

1. I haven't done that yet
   
2. Yes, reverse the pins, I used a tiny screwdriver to press down on the + pin, and push it back just a little bit. Slides out easy, then do the -, just push them in firmly and don't let them cross!
   
   
3. I have 2 sets of spare motors, til they burn up I likely won't upgrade

Thanks! I can switch over to AKK switchable VTX: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N948FF7/ref=s9_dcacsd_dcoop_bw_c_x_3_w
And grab a 5dBi antenna as well. Hadn't heard about this one though, and frankly too many out there not sure which to pick up! Did you have any vtx to recommend?

I just ordered this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01HXHGARY/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I literally only own the truck, reciever and 2 batteries that I'm not too sure about. I ordered that charger earlier, hopefully it's ok.

I also ordered a 5000mah 40c-50c battery: http://www.ebay.com/itm/282202973455?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

After spending another $60 on this thing I think I'm tapped out on my impulse buy. Hoping not to need anything else for a few weeks...

Yes, should be fine. Something like this: https://smile.amazon.com/GoolRC-Professional-Balance-Charger-Discharger/dp/B01HXHGARY/ref=sr_1_15?ie=UTF8&qid=1542915896&sr=8-15&keywords=lithium+charger

would also work.

You can get a 5.8GHz FPV system for the Syma x5c.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B013HQCK88?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s01

I purchased this last month for mine. The screen is very bright, even outdoors. Camera is about the same quality as the 2.0MP/720p that comes with the x5c (slower exposure compensation, slightly sharper image).

Here's footage I took the other day [from the camera] *(Removed link since it's from my own YouTube channel. PM me if you want the link).

I highly recommend it for a beginner/trainer quad. Under $130 all in for the quad, FPV and extra batteries.

When I got my Hubsan from Amazon I also got the prop guard which saved dozens of would-be-destroyed props. I also picked up the crash pack for the extra props, and the battery helps a lot too. I read on here somewhere that someone would fly, swap out batteries and continue flying and eventually burned out a motor or something (the extra kit comes with two motors anyways), so keep that in mind.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N9E33XA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_FJM6ybRDZN741

This is the camera that most people are putting on tiny whoops(really small drones). I've used this exact one, and it works pretty good. It will only give you about 50 ft of range though.


If you are looking for more range, you will have the buy a camera and a transmitter, such as these two:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N948FF7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_xMM6ybVKT9E49

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01E6GPYS6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_wNM6ybJQT95DW


EDIT: you would also need a recover for the video.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01H36AIGY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_6PM6ybWV3Y0EJ

This puts out RCA to a monitor of your choice

just so you know, this is the quality of an FPV camera and you will be getting breakup lines like this as bodies and stuff getting in the way will cause signal loss https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nU96HLe-hcs

​

​

Here is stuff you can use from Amazon for the AIO Fpv Camera

​

https://www.amazon.com/Wolfwhoop-WT05-Transmitter-Antenna-Quadcopter/dp/B06XJMQQ6Y/

​

https://www.amazon.com/Crazepony-230mAh-Battery-Inductrix-Connector/dp/B01N0Z0ME2

​

https://www.amazon.com/Battery-Charger-Channel-Inductrix-Connectors/dp/B074M6G2MD

​

Here is how to hook it up to a battery https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uOcxdVX6zYk

​

On the receving end, I assume you will then want to output to HDMI? The best/easiest way to do this is to buy two of these dock kings and hdmi adapters, one for each camera. If you have power nearby you can use a regular 5.5mm DC jack power adapter like for laptops. Or you can buy the battery packs for them. You will also want at least 2 antennas on each receiver, 1 omni and 1 patch antenna pointing in the direction of the actors

​

https://furiousfpv.com/product_info.php?cPath=56&products_id=669

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https://furiousfpv.com/product_info.php?products_id=704

​

https://furiousfpv.com/product_info.php?cPath=42&products_id=687

​

https://www.amazon.com/Crazepony-Antenna-Protective-Covering-Multicopter/dp/B01N9QM409

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https://www.amazon.com/RCmall-Accuracy-Directional-Circularly-Polarized/dp/B0772WJB5R

​


You will have to learn/read instructions on how to set each camera and receiver to their matching frequency bands


​

​

Valk pieces only break if you take the corners apart other than that its a really good cube! I would recommend it, as for the lube I order Maru lube and
Traxxas. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BP1AIA/ref=cm_sw_r_oth_api_NHwkyb17TGKQ3

I used this one in a build almost just like yours.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00WHCQYXG/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1521156038&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=gens+ace+25c+3s+lipo&dpPl=1&dpID=5118RTKVUBL&ref=plSrch
I did just find this one too for roughly the same price, but better
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00WJN4LG0/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1521156183&sr=8-1-spons&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=gens+ace+25c+3s+lipo&psc=1

The thing is my project is going to be mobile, so I have to give it an external power source.

This is what I bought to power the whole thing, and I know I'm going to need some boot converters for this, as it looks like there's 4 pins I have to work with plugging in (like a red and 3 black) instead of two.

Yep. Gotta learn how to do that as well.

Hiiii thank you. I dont really have much on my wishlist but the most random item would probably be this. Its a range extender for a drone controller haha. Lets me fly and film much further than I currently can.

You have no idea how helpful you are!

I only have 1 question left to ask, I was looking at the deviation transmitters specifically this Walkera : https://www.amazon.com/Walkera-DEVO-7E-Control-Transmitter-Channel/dp/B00B3OCRTY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1484613948&sr=8-1&keywords=Walkera+devo

On the deviation page it says it supports flysky : https://www.deviationtx.com/

so would that amazon linked transmitter work with the flight controller you linked here : http://www.banggood.com/Beecore-F3_EVO_Brushed-ACRO-Flight-Control-Board-DSM2-For-Inductrix-Tiny-Whoop-Eachine-E010-p-1089021.html?rmmds=search

If so i think i will be going with one of the walkera since they are more in my budget.

Highly recommend the akk vtx it performs extremely well for the price point it hits and competes with the immersion rc stuff plus it has a pigtail which means it's way harder to break. Also contains a safety feature where it doesn't immediately power up to any mw and you can change channels to avoid interference on start up.

AKK X1P 5.8Ghz 40CH 25mW 200mW 600mW Switchable FPV AV Transmitter with Pigtail for Racing Drone https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N948FF7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_rHqNybYHKC7XJ

I need an 11.1v lipo that will fit in my crane stock, and I hear that the side tubes in those stocks only accommodate for 9.6v batteries, and that 11.1v nunchucks will stick out the butt plate. I found this lipo, its rc spec and should be the right size to fit in the space in between the two tubes in my crane stock. Can anyone offer advice? Thanks!: https://www.amazon.com/Gens-ace-Battery-2200mAh-Airplane/dp/B00WJN4LG0/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_21_bs_lp_t_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=FPZ0KEZ1JZ9ETRYRB9X6

For general bashing and on Amazon, the Castle Sidewinder 3 isn't a bad option. They've got a 3800kv, 4600kv, and 5700kv if you want different motor options.

I like my Hobbywing stuff so far, but the price might be a bit more for ESC and motor through Amazon.

Walkera Devo 7e. Not the best, but with the deviation open source firmware and a few hardware modules, that one radio can operate on over a dozen protocols. You can easily increase the transmitting range 10x with a bit of soldering. I've been using it on my quads for 5 months now, hasn't let me down.

Funnily enough, I know a guy who is both an IFR certified pilot and an aircraft owner who happily flies his Phantom quadcopter in Class D airspace, as well as the busiest circuit in my area.

Having a PPL means nothing if the common sense isn't there.

Furthermore, 99% of "drone" operators still aren't causing problems. Most of the quads being sold are basically toys, and absolutely no different than the little coaxial helis that were all the rage a few Christmas's ago.

Banning every unmanned flying device or somehow trying to regulate them will be quite literally impossible. You'd have to regulate the sales of all 72 Mhz and 2.4 Ghz radio control gear, which is on it's own a multi-million dollar industry.


Are you suggesting the FAA sends officials to someones house if they are caught flying something like this?

from the suggestions below the best middle ground seems to be

https://www.amazon.com/Castle-Creations-Sidewinder-Waterproof-NC1406-5700KV/dp/B00AQYMNE6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1478883490&sr=8-1&keywords=010-0115-02

now if I could just find it cheaper!

I want an early present!

My birthday was actually last friday but i guess this can count for next year :)

i've always wanted one of these

The camera is kinda crappy. Like novelty crappy. It's pretty much unwatchable because there is no gimbal to stabilize the shot.

Have you seen this? It's pretty clever. The resolution is better and you get the advantage of flying with FPV. The price is right. Quality of recordings is so-so because again, no gimbal but otherwise it's not bad.

Thanks a lot. I was trying to do some research before posting and I guess I was looking at old information. how do these changes look?

Chassis: https://www.ebay.ca/itm/Yokomo-1-10-RC-RWD-DRIFT-CHASSIS-YD-2S-Rear-Wheel-Drive-Drift-KIT-DP-YD2S/202804677855?hash=item2f3819ccdf:g:ExQAAOSwCMRczQcp

Motor + ESC: http://www.rcmart.com/hobbywing-quicrun-3650sd-135t-brushless-sensored-motor-wonisiki-hell-blaze-p-70973.html?cPath=1560_1301

Battery: https://www.amazon.ca/Gens-ace-Battery-HardCase-Approved/dp/B00WOAWHUK

Charger: https://www.amazon.ca/Meiyiu-Battery-Charger-Digital-Discharger/dp/B07NW99VLM/ref=sr_1_16?keywords=7.4V+2s+lipo+charger&qid=1571863442&sr=8-16

servo: https://www.ebay.com/c/1752440977

Gyro: https://www.ebay.com/itm/YOKDPP-302V4-Yokomo-DP-302-V4-Drift-Steering-Gyro-/123636436439

It's the older style pdb. The motors aren't running at the time is the photo. I've slowly been removing more and more of the electronics from the frame during test. At this time only the ESCs are still attached and the signal cables are completely opposite the signal wires. Did you ever clear this up?

I've tried a TS5823 and one of these with no luck. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01N948FF7/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1501840317&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=akk+vtx

I have another quad with a cheap pdb and fc and vtx that doesn't have these issues.

I'm not familiar with using those connectors but I have the same charger. I use a balance board. so I can charge a few at a time. If you were to do that, then something like this would work

Otherwise just an ec5 to banana plug should work.

https://www.amazon.com/Parabolic-Advanced-Controller-Transmitter-Extender/dp/B017IP2P98/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1496172696&sr=8-4&keywords=phantom+3+signal+reflectors

You don't need the gold one. This one is more expensive than the $10 one, but that one only comes with one piece. You might save money with aluminum but I haven't tried that so I'm not sure

I’m about two weeks ahead of you.

The Jumper is a solid choice, mostly for the reasons you mention. Here is the T16 thread. Everything you ever wanted to know.

As far as transmitter batteries, I’d suggest checking out this thread @ RCgroups. I’d have purchased the $35 in radio charging kit instead of the standard 18650 & charger.

I’ve also got a Tinyhawk S. Would highly recommend. This little thing is bulletproof. It’s currently getting 4 minutes flight time on a 450mah 1S (I bought 10 of them). Haven’t tried 2S yet, as it’s been quite windy outside. The charger shipped with it only charges two (1S) at a time, so I bought this 6 place charger from Amazon.

Can’t comment on the EV800, as I went all in on Fatshark HDO's & ImersionRC Rapidfire.

You might be right. A multimeter would really be handy, to confirm, but you might be on the right track there.

Actually.... stay tuned...

edit: Tested on my lipo balance charger and sure enough, on NiMH/NiCd mode, it does provide a constant voltage, according to my multimeter.

Would this one be better? Flysky FS-i6X 10CH 2.4GHz AFHDS RC Transmitter w/ FS-iA6B Receiver https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0744DPPL8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_cmWLAbDBVVNP2

I hear good things about this guy:
http://www.amazon.com/Du-Bro-499-Tru-Spin-Prop-Balancer/dp/B0006N72Y8

Since I recently purchased the receiver, I think I'll just return it and start over. This looks like it should have what I need: https://www.amazon.com/Flysky-FS-i6X-Transmitter-FS-iA6B-Receiver/dp/B0744DPPL8/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1519086107&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=flysky&psc=1

Any thoughts?

So as to where to get stuff... this will get you started if you haven't already.

• S550 Frame - http://multirotormania.com/hexacopter/682-thunder-s550-hexacopter-kit-by-sk.html
  
• fast local US shipping
  
• DJI E310 power system - https://store.dji.com/product/e310-6
  
• The only place to reliably get the E310 power packs. They are that new.
  
• DJI Naza-M Lite with GPS - http://www.getfpv.com/dji-naza-m-lite-flight-controller-with-gps-compass.html
  
• Local US shipping
  
• Turnigy 9X with reciever - http://hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=8992
  
• China, so you'll need an express shipping method to reliably get it here in time.
  
• Highend alternative (you'll want Mode 2) - http://www.banggood.com/FrSky-2_4G-ACCST-Taranis-X9D-Plus-Transmitter-p-940819.html
  
• Cheap 2-Axis Gimbal - http://www.amazon.com/Brushless-Gimbal-Camera-Phantom-Walkera/dp/B00GAXYJFS/
  
• Balance Charger - Highend with Internal AC adapter or Generic Slow charger
  
  I'll have more time in the week to finish out the part list including some misc components you'll need like batteries, battery straps, and battery non-spark battery connections.

I have this, it's just copper plates that go over the antennas. They definitely work, so I'm sure one you have to install like that would work even better.

The only issue I face with mine is if I try to fly straight above myself the signal gets bad as the range extenders are trying to push the signal straight out. I did a test flight with them the other day and flew 3200 feet away with zero signal loss according to my logs. Looking at my other logs where I didn't even fly half that distance I would get signal loss in the same area without the range extender.

How do you feel about parabolic range boosters?

I've been thinking about buying THESE to boost my phantom 3 pro range since my area has a lot of trees

I was looking at this one. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B013HQCK88/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1458673210&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=syma+x5c+fpv+kit&dpPl=1&dpID=41to6J6rd4L&ref=plSrch (sorry about the huge link) it seems to have good overall reviews. Ill look at the onenyou suggested though!

I'm no expert but I would recommend starting with a tiny whoop. Also, I use the ISDT SC-608 to charge batteries.

Not going to be the best but very available - Syma X5C-1 - Banggood/Gearbest/Amazon/Aliexpress.

You can get a very basic 5.8ghz FPV setup going with http://amzn.com/B00MNG37C2 and http://amzn.com/B013HQCK88 - Its Toy grade but can get you started on an expensive hobby.

Thanks again Spark_Tek. I am thinking the Senton is the way to go. Would this charger and battery work well with it? And would I need any other type of connector, concerns about ESP etc.

Also, after researching a bit, some ESP's detect low voltage and that is really important it seems with LiPo. Does the included ESP do a shutoff? The alarm things that get squished in don't appear robust.

iMAX B6AC Version 2 Digital LiPo
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ZGZZ40K
Gens ace 7.4V 5000mAh 50C 2S LiPo Battery Pack
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00WOAWHUK

I'd say all you need in life is this traxxas kit. it'll last like 5 years. 50k, 30k, and 10k. 150cc's total

Link

Just get the right one and you'll be ok.

https://www.amazon.com/Gens-ace-Battery-2200mAh-Airplane/dp/B00WJN4LG0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1511932976&sr=8-1&keywords=11.1+volt+battery

or

https://hobbyking.com/en_us/turnigy-2200mah-3s-20c-lipo-pack.html?___store=en_us

Would 4 of these work? And can you explain the discharge? Do you mean once the battery reaches 80/100, I shouldn't drain it any further?

I bought mine earlier this year for 600 and have no regrets!

Wi-fi only can be a little frustrating. Originally I couldn't fly above 300ft without signal issues. I bought some parabolic antenna boosters which made a significant difference. As long as you don't need to fly out of sight (which technically is against FAA rules anyway) the P3 4k + boosters is worth it.

The only other downside is streaming quality. If you plan to do a lot of live flights on FB or YouTube buying the professional might be worth it.

Besides that, it's a great drone for the money. I say go for it!

The full set can be bought for only 20 quid which isnt too bad.
Link

Also check amazon or ebay, I got mine here (Amazon Germany).

I picked these up on Amazon for about $20. You can probably get them cheaper elsewhere if you don’t mind waiting.

I used the 50K on the springs and axles and will use the 10k on the pieces but I’m trying to finish off a bottle Mara lube before I open the 10K Trakkas bottle.

same thing was happening to me when I got my whoop, I was using those square batteries that come with the E010 and a single tiny whoop official stick battery(i've never charged to HV bc I don't feel like i need to)
my whoop would fall after a few seconds with the E010 batts but not with the good one.
Try some crazepony batteries off of amazon, they even come with an extended cable to solder on
https://www.amazon.com/Crazepony-230mAh-Battery-Inductrix-Connector/dp/B01N0Z0ME2/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1523912747&sr=8-3&keywords=crazepony

So would this work?

https://www.amazon.com/Parabolic-Professional-Advanced-Controller-Transmitter/dp/B017IP2P98/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1468177167&sr=8-1&keywords=phantom+3+range+extender

You know what to do

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B013HQCK88/ref=cm_sw_r_apa_ncPoxbEN0SCGV

http://www.amazon.com/Walkera-DEVO-7E-Control-Transmitter-Channel/dp/B00B3OCRTY



This is the devo 7e that is modify-able correct? Does this price seem right?

Gens Ace

Tattu

/ddt

Lubricant is also a must.

Is it this one?

https://www.amazon.com/Turnigy-2200mAh-20C-Lipo-Pack/dp/B0072AEY5I/

Here's one for fairly cheap. From HobbyKing.

https://www.amazon.com/Gens-ace-Battery-2200mAh-Airplane/dp/B00WJN4LG0/

Here's a GenAce battery that works too.

Would this work?
https://www.amazon.com/FrSky-Taranis-Channels-Transmitter-Controller/dp/B06XQWQ7C3/ref=mp_s_a_1_1/145-3760442-2589169?ie=UTF8&qid=1543342245&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=taranis+qx7&dpPl=1&dpID=51aJslo8BuL&ref=plSrch

[Traxxas 10k, 30k and 50k in a bundle.] (https://www.amazon.com/Traxxas-5136X-Differential-Oil-Kit/dp/B000BP1AIA) Get lube now.

[4 batteries and one JST-PH 2.0 connector] (https://www.amazon.com/Crazepony-230mAh-Battery-Inductrix-Connector/dp/B01N0Z0ME2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1499974130&sr=8-1&keywords=power+whoop+battery)

I would go with the X8C with this camera http://www.amazon.com/GoolRC-Real-time-Transmission-Display-Quadcopter/dp/B013HQCK88

Here is the link to traxxas it is $17 usd including shipping only 1 left
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BP1AIA?m=A28RSVMDNB39Z1&ref_=v_sp_detail_page

it's in serie. Do you mean one of this? https://www.amazon.com/GoolRC-Battery-Balancer-Charger-7-4-11-1V/dp/B00CF93RF4

Traxxas Lube Pack

Here is the mobile version of your link

Gen 8 in transit to me but I went ahead and ordered this Gens ace 7.4V 5000mAh 50C 2S LiPo Battery Pack HardCase and budget charger Lipo Battery Balance Charger Touch Screen Duo Discharger Dual Ac150w DC240W

I'm in Canada and I got mine from here: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BP1AIA/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

Check out Gens Ace.

Example: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00WOAWHUK/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1492268944&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=gens+ace+lipo&dpPl=1&dpID=41r0nHzSG-L&ref=plSrch

A Syma S107. http://amzn.com/B00DPK11ZA

No problem, I ended up getting a JST-PH 2.0 plug for my Tiny6. Downside is you need new batteries unless you want to do some sketchy soldering.

These have been great though, plenty of power, and comes with the plug upgrade: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N0Z0ME2/

awesome, thanks! I think I've mostly got it figured out now, and I believe I need 4 parts total...

• drone (BNF model, not PNP, so it comes with a FrSky receiver)
  
• battery (seems to not come included... whatever)
  
• video receiver (narrowed down options)
  
• transmitter (and adapter plug thingy if I go with non-FrSky?)
  
  drone:
  
  
• https://www.geekbuying.com/item/EMAX-BABYHAWK-R-Racing-Drone-BNF-with-Receiver-390291.html
  
  battery:
  
  
• https://www.ebay.com/itm/JJRC-7-4V-450MAH-35C-Lipo-Battery-JST-Plug-For-Emax-Babyhawk-FPV-Racer/122562788413
  
  video receiver options:
  
  
• 1- decent integrated headset
  
• https://www.banggood.com/Eachine-EV100-720540-5_8G-72CH-FPV-Goggles-With-Dual-Antennas-Fan-7_4V-1000mAh-Battery-p-1182469.html
  
  
• 2 - cheaper integrated headset
  
• https://www.banggood.com/Eachine-VR-007-Pro-VR007-5_8G-40CH-HD-FPV-Goggles-4_3-Inch-Video-Headset-With-3_7V-1600mAh-Battery-p-1134154.html
  
  
• 3 - receiver for cellphone plus google cardboard equivalent
  
• https://www.banggood.com/Eachine-ROTG02-UVC-OTG-5_8G-150CH-Dual-Antenna-Audio-FPV-Receiver-for-Android-Tablet-Smartphone-p-1242422.html
  
• with
  
• https://www.amazon.com/Headset-KAWOE-Virtual-Compatible-Smartphone/dp/B07546GT3X/
  
  
  transmitter:
  
  
• this is where I'm a little confused why FrSky is so much more expensive than 'FlySky' but whatever, I don't think I want to get into external modules so I should probably spend the $105 to $125 on a Q X7 which should be compatible out of the box, if I understand that description right
  
  
• https://www.amazon.com/Frsky-Taranis-Transmitter-Racing-Drones/dp/B06XQWQ7C3/
  
  
• https://www.banggood.com/FrSky-ACCST-Taranis-Q-X7-2_4GHz-16CH-Transmitter-White-Black-p-1112717.html
  
  
  SO net net for drone + battery + VR + transmitter I'm looking at around $140 + $15 + $80 + $100. Ballpark $350.
  
  If it all works out I guess that's not so bad. And when I lose the drone, I'm only down $150, not all $350.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B013HQCK88?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s01

This same kit is on banggood, gearbest, and a few others. I spent 56 on an experiment. I am trying to mount it internally to lose the 8g shell

So the kits are nice and fly out of the box and are super expensive. If you're interested and not sure you want to do it I would say go and purchase a cheaper but versatile radio like this one-

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XQWQ7C3/_encoding=UTF8?coliid=IOOXZ0LWZ7WX6&colid=3JZ28VNN5WA0Y&psc=0

Once you have one you can use the online simulators or on Steam to get stick time in. Later, you can build your own. It's really not as hard as it sounds guys....you just need to solder really. Plus, WHEN you break it (you will) you will know exactly how to fix and trouble shoot. Check out this guys vids- he has a full parts list in the description. https://youtu.be/Avp8MurmeEY

I used to be a fixed wing drone pilot in the military. Some of the guys I worked with competed in the world class series quad and RC flier circuits. I say lets do it and start a FPV Tally Racing League!

Radio -> Sim -> Build -> Learn to Fly LOS w/o FPV -> buy crap entry goggles -> Go pod racin' at Tom Brown!