Reddit mentions: The best recessed light fixtures

I don't think LED is where it needs to be for shop lighting at the moment.

To be clear, I love LEDs and they're headed in the right direction. The inside of my house is 90% LED now, with just a couple halogen spotlights on dimmers and a few bare incandescent bulbs in the furnace room.

But for shop/garage lighting, it's still not clear cut. I've crunched the numbers on a few different options:

1. T8 Fluorescent are the old standby. At 350 Lumens/$ including tubes and fixtures, they're the absolute best choice for your money, and at 90 Lumens/Watt they're pretty damn efficient as well.
   
2. T8 High Efficiency tubes are a bit dimmer and a bit more expensive, but drop right into regular T8 fixtures. This brings you to 300 Lm/$ and 100 Lm/W, very good numbers if you're power-limited.
   
3. T5 are the more modern replacement to T8. They're rare and hard to find, and at 115 Lm/$ and 103 Lm/W I'm not sure it's worth trying.
   
4. T5HO have been showing up lately, and my goodness are they impressive to look at. They make all the other lights in a store display look awful. 200 Lm/$ and 93 Lm/W doesn't hold up quite as well when you see them in isolation, but on the plus side these fixtures all seem to come with -20° ballasts, which you usually have to buy separately at added cost for T8 fixtures.
   
5. The most impressive LED shop light I've seen is this guy. In the store display it's as impressive as T5HO. At 116 Lm/$ and 84 Lm/W it looks less interesting, but because LEDs are directional it puts more light where you want it. Hard to say how much, but most reports figure fluorescent tubes only get around 70% of their light onto your task. If you boost the LED numbers by 43% (1/0.7) they come out to an effective 165 Lm/$ and 120 Lm/W. On top of that, they start instantly and don't mind being turned on for ten seconds while you grab something and leave. I've thought about putting these in my shop but as of today I'm not sure they're worth the money against my T8 stuff. In a couple years I figure they'll be even better.
   
6. I went ahead and ran some numbers for LED tape, doing it properly with an aluminum channel for mounting and heatsinking. Numbers are based on this led tape in this aluminum channel with a $10 allowance for whatever power supply. That's 125 Lm/$ and 150 Lm/W - not great for your money, but the efficiency is damn good even if you figure in power supply efficiency. If you decide to go for the dorm-room look and skip the aluminum channel, cost-effectiveness jumps like mad to 415 Lm/$, but you might have to worry about longevity. Edit: On further reflection, I doubt that LED strip is quite as bright as it claims. It seems high, and the reviews for that particular roll of tape are mixed. A strip with more common 5050 diodes would be a safer option, but at lower brightness the efficiency and value drops well below the fluorescent options. If you don't strongly require the immediate full brightness of the LEDs, fluorescent tubes are still the way to go, and if you do need LEDs I'd recommend the commercial fixture with a warranty.
   
7. I'll also throw in bare incandescent bulbs here, for laughs. A cheap 60w bulb in a $2 ceramic base. That's 300 Lm/$ and 15 Lm/W. Not quite as good as I expected for the money, and garbage efficiency as expected. Just fun to compare.
   
   
   
   EDIT: Added numbers for LED tape and incandescent.
   EDIT2: Added comment about LED strip quality.

I'd highly suggest removing the current light fixtures and cans you have, keep the same zones in terms of switches but change out the switches to dimmers that support LED bulbs and put in this type of recessed lighting. The 4" makes them look updated and using LED bulbs makes them amazingly bright and super cheap and safe to run compared to halogen bulbs.

Here is the Amazon link, super inexpensive at less than 10$ per fixture. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008BG6ZUO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_A7rHAb2N26AX2

I'd create a perimeter around the room(s) 2 feet away from the exterior walls and space them every 3 to 4 feet apart.

Here are a couple pictures of what they look like in our kitchen.
https://imgur.com/gallery/8yplP

I followed the Ikea LACK build, with my own mods.

I don't live near an IKEA, so I bought two end tables @ $8/ea, but ended up paying $26 total after shipping. I then purchased $60 in plexi, but used corrugated plastic for the back panel since it's significantly cheaper and the white background reflects more light on the print bed. It's basically the stuff that political yard signs are made out of (if that makes sense). I printed standoffs / brackets to hold the plexiglass (see Thingiverse), $14 in brackets & board for the side shelf. The lights were about $45, using this, this, & this. I put the LED strips on aluminum channel, but that really could have been skipped. I just had some from a previous project.

Because I went "full nerd", I used an arduino & temperature sensor to create a temperature controlled fan, with LED control panel (designed & printed bracket), and used sketch-up to build an exhaust housing very similar to this one, except for a 120mm fan. I don't have a filter on the enclosure now, and to be honest, 90% of the time, the fan is off. But I wanted to be able to place a charcoal filter on the exhaust fan for ABS, so I planned ahead. I'm going to tie my OctoPi to the Arduino and trigger the fan on high after a print ends to cool the enclosure down faster so I can pull parts off the glass bed sooner.

I'll guess my all-up price was about $200. It could have been done for probably $130 without the arduino & lighting tom foolery.

Other mods pictured are the printed Z-axis braces on the printer itself, this fan shroud on the control box (because the stock fan is a joke), and the aforementioned borosilicate glass print bed.

Until you have an enclosure sorted, even surrounding the printer on 3 sides with cardboard proved to be a huge step in the right direction for me. It proved that yeah, I really do want an enclosure.

You guys/gals(?) are awesome. Thank you.

It sounds like I have my work cut out for me. I've been doing research on air sealing and I can definitely see where that is probably my biggest priority. This house was built during the 2006 construction boom (which was especially feverish here in Bend, Oregon) and I'm sure that lots and lots and lots of small/medium (maybe even large?) gaps are scattered through the attic floor.

So--I need to get a whole bunch of expanding foam, silicone caulk, garbage bags and fiberglass batting, etc. Some more specific questions:

1.) How the *%$& am I supposed to move all of that blown-in fiberglass insulation? (I mistakenly said it was cellulose--it appears to be fiberglass!) Do I just pile it all out of my work area, do the sealing, and then pile it back? Holy crap this sounds awful.

2.) On that note--I read that it was necessary to get a relatively clean surface before applying adhesive insulations (sprayfoam/caulk). They suggested a vacuum would be necessary. Seriously??? +1 PITA factor.

3.) On the furnace: The air supply enters a metal box (basically the "top" of the furance) which then branches off into insulated ducts. The ducts seem to be well insulated. But the metal box isn't insulated at all--feels very warm to the touch. Can I insulate this part of the furnace? And if so, what would be the appropriate type of insulation? Since its a box, it seems like the rigid foam-board styrofoam insulation would be easy and 'clean'. To clarify, the part of the furnace I am talking about is shown in this video, where I showed our previous homeowner the big gap in the furance: https://youtu.be/biD6_NJaNEU The box that used to have the gap is the box I am talking about insulating.

4. What do you all think about these recessing lighting can covers? https://www.amazon.com/Tenmat-FF130-E-Covers-Recessed-Lighting/dp/B002XVPUAO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1483677859&sr=8-1&keywords=TENMAT Seems like a better idea than just dousing the can with spray foam!

Thanks, all!

Lighting is so subjective, you're going to have to try some things yourself. I recently updated mine, and it took 3 tries before I found the right light, but I'm glad I kept trying. Amazon made it easy.

I found CRI to be very important to me. In fact I ended up going with a light from a company that offered both a standard and high CRI, everything else about the light was the same, and the difference was startling. Well worth a few bucks a light.

I also didn't like the bright color, ended up going all the way down to 3000K, though truthfully it doesn't seem as warm as an incandescent (which I didn't want). I find 3000K LED to be the perfect color. YMMV.

Here's what I ended up using:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MAXLE78/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The one negative I would say, if I had to come up with one, is that I got these because there wasn't much of a setback (the lights are almost flush with the trim. But the setback helps reduce glare since you don't look directly at the light as much. I don't find the lights produce a ton of glare, but I did realize after installing that that is why lots of the lights are setback deeper in the cans.

Congrats! Yup exact same situation here ... house was built in 1960 and zero overhead lights to be found -- only switched outlets.

Having attic access makes it so much easier. Best tip I found was to use these insulation rods to drill up through the ceiling from underneath to spot where you'll need to run wire in the attic. I planned out where I wanted my lights first and then drilled these up on the center of location like little flags. I only ended up having to move one light (and only about two inches) because of a ceiling beam.

For lights, I did the canless LED and they we're super easy to install and put out a good amount of light. Added a compatible dimmer and 'unswitched' the outlets to make them always hot while i was in there.

OK. For the practical part of it:

You can install dimmable in-ceiling lights. The new ultra-thin versions have become super popular, and the advantage is that you can maintain excellent attic insulation over your head, making for a comfortable room:

https://www.amazon.com/Lithonia-Lighting-WF6-LED-30K/dp/B01ND1L263

We use more electrical products than ever before. On each side of the bed put a pair of duplex outlets, or even more. Trust me, you will end up using them.

Adding double closet lights, and at least one electrical outlet will make your closet more functional.

Add a big ceiling fan. Even on super low it will move sufficient air silently.

Add a fold down seat to the shower. She will thank you for this.

Put the lights over the sink on a dimmer. Great for those 3:00 am trip to the 'loo.

Put an electrical outlet right next to the toilet. You may not want a bidet right now, but in the future it will be an easy installation. And once you use it, you will kick yourself for not having bought one earlier.

We replaced all of our recessed lights like this with LEDs and it was the best upgrade we’ve down for ease / cost. They look better, are dimmable and use less energy.

Something like this

Sunco Lighting 12 Pack 5/6 Inch LED Recessed Downlight, Baffle Trim, Dimmable, 13W=75W, 3000K Warm White, 965 LM, Damp Rated, Simple Retrofit Installation - UL + Energy Star https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071G94M44/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_AEjyCb1BZ2GBY

Yeah, I probably need to take out the can and see what's going on behind there. The previous owner was thrifty and creative, so I am always finding interesting hidden surprises.

Looks like something like this might make a good short term solution.

http://www.amazon.com/Mr-Lighting-Ultra-thin-Incandescent-Equivalent-Commercial/dp/B0155WJ1XE

Finding lights that thin that are gimbaled will be super difficult. We have a vaulted ceiling and just installed can lights a couple months ago. We used these: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FFPYWHJ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_Tsn4DbRARSD5R

They are amazing. Since the screen is frosted the light is really diffuse and we don't have any shadow areas. (Which is why they say to use gimbal lights on vaulted ceilings. So the shadows don't make the room look weird.)

We used these gimbal lights in our kitchen to light up the counters: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07JMCFV3R/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_Vwn4DbZT5GJE3

They have definite edges/shadows and they're about 3" thick. They're good lights, but I'm glad we used the other ones in our living room. The light is so even and they look great.

It is the spring mounted type, I was sent a Chinese model for review that was generic, the ballast is separate and a nicer one with a separate ballast means you get the connections all sorted and attach that to the joist then pop the light on up through.

They appear to have updated their range or some such but this one in the US shop looks to be the same.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00EC8RS5Q/ref=mp_s_a_1_15?ie=UTF8&qid=1505942510&sr=8-15&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=led+panel+light

Whether or not you need a junction box to make this work would depend on your existing wire ends and what meets your electrical code.

Better ones exist and I like it in the bathroom but 3000k warm white LEDs are a bit nicer than these 2500-2800 ones.

I'm intending to do a bigger one in the kitchen and would be going 3000k, larger panel for more even lighting.

I would install these, at least 4 spaced around the fan.

TORCHSTAR 6 Inch LED Slim Recessed Lighting with Junction Box, 12W 100W Eqv. 850lm Dimmable Wafer Light, ETL & Energy Star Certified Downlight, 5000K Daylight, Pack of 6 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0756Y9M76/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Z5WoDb41BXFQA

Then you can save two for if any if them. Burn out.

If you have a separate light control switch you can wire them up to that. Then remove the fan light.

I like the way it looks with can lights and a fan without a light kit.

Thank you for the reply. That was my concern and it makes sense once I started to understand the sound transmission through air and vibrations. We are worried about ceiling height as ours is slightly lower than normal already, but we’re convinced clips and hat channel are superior to RC-8 res channel for reducing noise, so low profile lighting is key to prevent lowering the ceiling feel further. If I went a product such as this would you recommend putty on the box and then an acoustic sealant around the edges of the light? It is an LED so it should last log enough that replacing it is a long way down the road, so sealing it seems worth the headache of eventually replacing it.

You have similar goals, and are in a similar place as I am so I don't have much to add. I personally don't want to the bare LEDs because I'm worried that they will be too directional so I was considering this diffusing mounting channel. A very diy friend of mine said you can also rub the tips with a bit of sandpaper to frost them, but I'm taking that with a grain of salt. Good luck with your project.if possible please post your results.

If you're just swapping out incandescent or CFL bulbs for LEDs in existing can lights, check out Great Eagle bulbs on Amazon. They sound odd, but they're very good. I went with them because I wanted uniform color and brightness and they've been great. Only one died in the first year, and I've installed several cases of them.

Another option is an LED insert that replaces the trim piece and bulb with an integrated LED assembly. I don't have a brand recommendation on those.

If you are going complete canless, flat-panel, I used these:

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0756VY88Z/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Love it! I'd recommend looking at tape light next time. Lumens per watt are extraordinary nowadays and versatile in terms of how you apply to get the light distribution and foot candels you desire. There are some that are tunable for lumens and color temp now too.

May also want to check out some of the new "wafer" style downlights... very thin profile...

so im on the verge of doing this project and i am going to use a V-shape aluminum channel that will install on the front "lip" of my cabinet (its basically going to angle the LED strip at 45 degrees toward the wall, versus straight down). this is because the underside of my cabinets are slightly visible from the seating area in my living room and mounting the lights on the front edge will hide them while still providing the desired effect (i hope). the added benefit to this approach is that it will allow me to cut the aluminum channel to fit and follow the corners, since the bend is in accordance with the flexibility of the strip its self (if that makes sense).

for example. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01DM7GBIM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

sunco lighting makes great puck style recessed lights that fit in drywall, ceiling joists be damned

You can buy them on Amazon too if you need them quicker: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N9X6YII/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_t7yHAb56ZNFV1

I just put these in my house and they're awesome. Bright, work in wet, and no discernable direction.

In my experience, the harsh effect will definitely be diminished. Especially if you're able to do a dimmer.

Here's a type of light I have used in the past.

You'll want to look up the right amount of light for your room (often referred to as footcandles). 12x12 is pretty small, but spreading out your light sources should really help!

Look at the ultra-thin LEDs. The only hole you need to make is about the thickness of a pencil, and easily sealed:

https://www.amazon.com/Lithonia-Lighting-WF4-LED-30K/dp/B01N9X6YII/

Since they have a very long lifetime, servicing them should not present a problem.

You can get them so they nestle in the first layer of drywall, or surface mount, if desired:

http://www.cooperindustries.com/content/public/en/lighting/products/recessed_general_purpose_downlighting/led/_6_inch_led_smd6/_889910.brands.lighting!recessed_halo!_led_direct_mount.html

I love these Lithonia lights. I prefer the 6 inch models if you're lighting a room. They are also cheaper. Lithonia Lighting WF6 LED 30K MW M6 13W Ultra Thin 6" Dimmable LED Recessed Ceiling Light, 3000K, White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01ND1L263/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_kz0sDbE8KVPFX

Maybe recessed down light. Or retrofit. Or can light.

Amazon link to hue’s offering: Philips Hue White Ambiance Dimmable LED Smart Retrofit Recessed Downlight (4-Inch Compatible with Amazon Alexa Apple HomeKit and Google Assistant) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0798P29FV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_lHH4Bb2R0121F

I believe you'll still need the Hue hub, but they should be. I don't have my SmartThings unboxed yet to be sure.

If not, look for one like this Halo on Amazon, this is the one I originally considered but I decided to stay with Hue to keep things simple for my setup.

Do you know which way your joists run? Also, try finding a 10-pack of pot lights on Amazon. You can get good quality for a decent price. Check this out.

I just installed these in my bathroom. They're reasonably priced, come in square & round, white\black, and different diameters and lighting temp.

I've only had them in for a few weeks and I'm quite impressed with them so far. I went with 4" square, and they have a nice clean, modern look to them. They're on dimmer so I'm able to dim down to candle light. The pigtail connection is convenient and made installation smooth.

As others have mentioned, the bulbs are not replaceable in this type of light, but are rated for 36,000 hours. That's 25 years @ 4 hours per day.

That’s why you get these... regular cans, but nice looking led lights. Get the 3000k

https://www.amazon.com/Sunco-Lighting-Recessed-Retrofit-Replacement/dp/B071G94M44?th=1&psc=1

Sweet! Now I'm not sure I have any specific product recommendations. For LED stuff, I tend to buy cheap, China-direct stuff from AliExpress.

Puck option: https://m.aliexpress.com/item/32787244185.html


Floodlight: https://m.aliexpress.com/item/32833355799.html

I also just bought a few of these that might be a better/safer option: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01MV4JNNU?th=1&psc=1

Or low voltage LEDs might be even safer, if you wanted to go with a high density LED strip with the smd2635 chips.

> Make sure any recessed lights are IC and AT rated.

I'm thinking about converting my recessed lights (installed by the previous homeowners) to IC-rated ones.

As in interim solution, I replaced the piss-poor "boxes" the previous homeowners put around each light with these:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002XVPUAO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

By "boxes", I mean four pieces of shittily-cut drywall loosely placed around each light.

I found these bulbs at Home Depot that were kind of neat, they can mount directly in junction boxes instead of requiring a full metal can installation. Plastic junction boxes are like $1 and way easier to install than the metal cans IMO. Plus there's virtually no chance of them rattling from bass. (I had metal cans in my previous basement that rattled though they may not have been installed correctly.) They aren't smart though, so you'd need to get smart light switch to control them. I'm considering them for my basement build out, but that's a ways off.

I’ve used these diffusers with good results. No more spots on my retinas.

https://m.ebay.com/itm/Sand-Surface-PMMA-Lens-Diameter-10mm-Light-Transmission-For-SMD-5050-LED/352163883530?itemId=352163883530&varId=621600413364

I would recommend 30 LEDs per meter strips that are NOT waterproof. If they have waterproofing it will be basically impossible to attach. I used superglue and lots of patience. If you go higher density on the lights it’s gonna take a long time.

The other option is to use metal tracks that little plastic filters snap into. The metal also works as a nice heat sink and way to attach to the wall. You can also use higher density 60 LEDs per meter strips without worrying about the pain of attaching individual lenses. Don’t get 120 LEDs per meter - too power hungry for most applications. There are several types and perhaps better prices out there but an example would be this one:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01DM7G91G/ref=aw_pd_cart_vw_4_3?ie=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B01DM7G91G&pd_rd_r=8KYAQMZKJTM0X2P7DWX6&pd_rd_w=c2rRH&pd_rd_wg=z9ew8&psc=1&refRID=8KYAQMZKJTM0X2P7DWX6

Amazon

Edit:

Something like this, but there are lots of styles on amazon. https://smile.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01DM7G91G/

Also, this is just the aluminum channel. Lights, wire, and power supply sold separately.

If the landlord approves, [this] (https://www.amazon.com/Philips-Hue-Downlight-Compatible-Assistant/dp/B0798P29FV/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1539046537&sr=8-1&keywords=philips+hue+downlight) is what you want.

I wanted to use these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0756VY88Z/ref=ask_ql_qh_dp_hza

I'm not sure I have that much (8") clearance to be honest.

Several companies make BR30 lights for this purpose. When I pulled out the original flush mount recessed lights from the cans I had to buy and install baffle cone inserts, then just screw in the BR30 lights. Hue also makes a flush mount recessed light.

example of can light baffles: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074621NMC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

example of BR30 lights: https://www.amazon.com/LIFX-Adjustable-Multicolor-Dimmable-Assistant/dp/B01KY02MPG/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=lifx+br30&qid=1562603245&s=hi&sr=1-4

example of Hue flush mount recessed downlight: https://www.amazon.com/Philips-Hue-Downlight-Compatible-Assistant/dp/B0798P29FV/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=hue+downlight&qid=1562603291&s=gateway&sr=8-5

The current fixture is wired for 5 incandescent 60 watt bulbs, and I replace them with the wafer LEDs lighting that are ~10 watts each, so instead of 5 bulbs in one place, have 5 wafer lights in a line/series throughout the ceiling. Was thinking of something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/TORCHSTAR-Ultra-Thin-Recessed-Downlight-Certified/dp/B0756Y9M76?ref_=Oct_BSellerC_3736711_1&pf_rd_p=2d7e7d78-894f-5e71-b62a-36d9cdd5a7c0&pf_rd_s=merchandised-search-6&pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_i=3736711&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=7H91JADGTEM69HXMC37N&pf_rd_r=7H91JADGTEM69HXMC37N&pf_rd_p=2d7e7d78-894f-5e71-b62a-36d9cdd5a7c0

Another Question: If i do use a spreader bar with a junction box would you think using a light like this:

https://smile.amazon.com/Lemonbest-Square-Recessed-Lighting-Fixture/dp/B00EC8RS5Q/ref=pd_cp_60_4?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00EC8RS5Q&pd_rd_r=GAYECRXBBN35E4SQXCBS&pd_rd_w=8WkXC&pd_rd_wg=TGiGn&psc=1&refRID=GAYECRXBBN35E4SQXCBS

would be ok as long as the connection is in the JBOX or avoid those type of lights all together?

You might be able to reduce the number of can lights needed if you look at the cree t47 and t67. These lights will usually fit in a 4" ceiling box as long as it's not a shallow one. Be aware that to dim these you need a electronic dimmer, otherwise they buzz a lot with a standard LED dimmer.

HALO Recessed RL56 Zigbee Smart LED Downlight, White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073P7HXHY/

I just installed 9 of these and can confirm they have adjustable color temperature.

With the corner pieces I'm talking about, they're basically going in the corner space where the glass meets the wood.

Something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DM7GBIM/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_mVetDbJKH34MF

I used similar LED strips for case lighting and they worked fine but the bright white slowly turned to yellow due to the heat slowly discoloring the material. I recently replaced them with the same strip but added an aluminum channel that acts as a heatsink. No longer an issue.

Link: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01DM7GBIM

P.S., If the strip is going to be exposed, I would think of something like this: https://www.amazon.com/LightingWill-Internal-Aluminum-Mounting-Installations-U02B5/dp/B01DM7EZO4/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1473899117&sr=8-2&keywords=light+strip+housing

There are specific insulation covers you can get for these because piling insulation on top of them can cause excessive heat and potential fire hazard.

This past winter, I felt a lot of air passing around the recessed lights in our vaulted ceiling (white cedar T&G), so I took the covers off, stuffed some insulation around the sides, then applied silicone caulk between the wood and can openings. I wish I had known about the insulation covers when I installed these during our house build.

I did something similar using the two items below in case i move apartments. I removed the clear casing from phillips, lined any exposed electrical connections in the back with electrical tape and then double sided taped them to the inside of these frames. I took pictures of the whole process with the intention of posting the process but never got around to it. let me know if you have any questions

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01DM7G91G/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N4DRX7N/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Looks like you have mold on the bottom of your roof deck. This is because without an insulating draft stop cover these things leak moist air like crazy and the water vapor is collecting on the cold roof deck.(https://www.amazon.com/Tenmat-FF130-Covers-Recessed-Lighting/dp/B002XVPUAO)

​

Also looks like you have a major mouse shit issue which means you have a mouse piss issue all over your attic which is probably your smell. Could even be some bonus rotting mouse carcasses up there somewhere. I hope you are wearing a mask when messing with this

They make these Hue Recessed Lights

Give these a try?

(my apologies for replying twice in the same thread with the same info...)

Hue does make a retrofit hue can light.

I was looking at this today.

https://smile.amazon.com/Lemonbest-Square-Recessed-Lighting-Fixture/dp/B00EC8RS5Q/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1492037622&sr=8-1&keywords=led+light+panel+18w

https://www.amazon.com/Tenmat-FF130-Covers-Recessed-Lighting/dp/B002XVPUAO/

Might I suggest you go with these instead? They can be places so that the adjoining stud won't interfere, and at 6 inches in diameter, will cover up the existing opening.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0756VY88Z/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_m2kQCbP1ZF6Z5 that’s what I used in my dining room and kitchen.

I don't have an answer but there are alternatives to the 2" rigid foam board boxes. Some people take sonotubes and cap them with foam board or something else.

Or you could take a look at Tenmat covers: http://www.amazon.com/Recessed-Light-Draft-Stop-Cover/dp/B002XVPUAO/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1258996712&sr=8-2