Reddit mentions: The best recording signal a-d & d-a converters

/u/flexcube - sorry to hear about the loss of your gear - glad that you're able to replace it.

This looks like a good setup - I am a GH4 shooter and it is a great camera.

That said, you might want to consider getting the [1.349,00€ GH4R] (http://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B0156X5MYO/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1638&creative=19454&creativeASIN=B0156X5MYO&linkCode=as2&tag=hybrcamerev02-21) for V-LOG and increased dynamic range.

In addition, if you expose to the right with V-Log, the GH4 becomes a better low light camera than with the original firmware - and can get clean results up to ISO 5000 (or even 6400), as seen here:

• [V-LOG L VS CINE D - Low Light Test - Panasonic GH4 by Mitch Lally] (https://youtu.be/n97zc5zIA70) (please note the lack of noise at ISO 6400 in the V-LOG shot)
  
  
• [Band Promo // GH4 // V-Log by Play Reel Productions] (https://vimeo.com/146034870) (crowd shots at ISO 5000)
  
  
• [GH4 V-Log Low light test by Iban Corominas] (https://vimeo.com/146841470)
  
  
• [GH4 // V-Log // Low light test 5000 iso by Play Reel Productions] (https://vimeo.com/142443785)
  
  With this [687,96€ (shipping included) 12-35mm lens] (http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/707-53477-19255-0/1?icep_ff3=2&pub=5575034783&toolid=10001&campid=5337235943&customid=&icep_item=391441605632&ipn=psmain&icep_vectorid=229487&kwid=902099&mtid=824&kw=lg) from the UK, the camera plus the lens will cost you 2.036,96€.
  
  I would also consider an [inexpensive 3 axis gimbal] (http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/707-53477-19255-0/1?icep_ff3=2&pub=5575034783&toolid=10001&campid=5337235943&customid=&icep_item=262217468852&ipn=psmain&icep_vectorid=229487&kwid=902099&mtid=824&kw=lg), and a [balanced XLR mic] (http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/707-53477-19255-0/1?icep_ff3=2&pub=5575034783&toolid=10001&campid=5337235943&customid=&icep_item=371397275267&ipn=psmain&icep_vectorid=229487&kwid=902099&mtid=824&kw=lg) with an [impedance matching cable] (http://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B00EHTIHA0/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1638&creative=19454&creativeASIN=B00EHTIHA0&linkCode=as2&tag=hybrcamerev02-21) instead of the Glidecam and the unbalanced 3.5mm Videomic.
  
  Hope this is helpful and good luck with your new camera!
  
  

If you want to limit the amount of editing, I'm curious as to why you want 4k for something as simple as a talking head. I could see if you are keying with a green screen for a possibly better key or shooting something detailed. The crop could be useful if you're going to push in and use it for a sort of fake 2nd shot, but I don't think it's absolutely necessary. There's also the added time of downsampling all your clips.

Add to the fact that you want a side by side of the person and the presentations makes your talking head even smaller. If you plan to deliver in 1920 x 1080 that leaves you with 2x 960 x 540 images (edge to edge, side by side centered in the middle keeping the aspect ratio) for the presentation and the person talking.

That said, I own a GH4 and mostly shoot in 4k so maybe I'm being hypocritical. I've used it for green screen interviews, concerts and other various events. I've always downsampled to deliver in 1080. FYI there's no video time limit on the GH4, but it's a bit above your budget plus you would need a lens.

Audio wise I've used a wired LAV (similar if not the same as the one you posted) via XLR to 1/8" transformer direct into my GH4. External audio recorder will probably give you better results, but that also adds more edit time although Premiere and Final Cut X do a pretty good job at syncing audio. Make sure you record internally on the camera also so it can analyze the audio and match it up.

Specs on Atomos site for the Ninja 2 say it can handle all these resolutions and frame rates.
> 1080i60, 1080i59.94, 1080i50, 1080p30, 1080p25, 1080p24, 1080p23.98, 1080pSF23.98, 1080pSF24, 1080pSF25, 1080pSF30, 720p60, 720p59.94, 720p50, SD 480i, 576i

The G6 is around $150 correct?

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In that case, a Schiit Modi 2 and JDS Labs Atom would be a good amp/dac stack for the same price. An upgrade would be the Schiit Modi 3, Topping D10, or ODAC for $50 extra instead of the Modi 2, but honestly the 2 is pretty solid.

I can't seem to find the one you're referring to but it seems like the [schiit 2](schiit modi 2 usb digital/Schiit Modi 2 USB Digital/Analog Converter (Aluminum Top - Silver Anodized) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07KX7LSYT/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_fei8CbFPRXCTA)) seems like that would work as both a pre-amp and DAC!

Something you'd recommend?

Those speakers you linked would be fine with this amp;

https://www.amazon.com/Nobsound-Bluetooth-Amplifier-Wireless-Receiver/dp/B06Y67PZB1

I have one and it works great. You'd need one of these as well if your TV doesn't doesn't have RCA outs as well;

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072N81MML/ref=sspa_dk_detail_2?psc=1

An optical cable and some speaker wire and you're golden.

> The rest on the left are short for center, left, right, surround left, sorround right speakers, just ignore them as you are using the ones at the bottom.

Those are inputs, the ones on the bottom are outputs. Some DVD players have an advanced output just for surround sound systems (like this one). OP will pretty much just use Aux 1 though. He may use Aux 2 but from his post it doesn't seem like it. He will need an Digital Audio Out to RCA Audio adapter. Something like:

https://www.amazon.com/Digital-Optical-Analog-Converter-Adapter/dp/B003OND0N4

Or a Digital Audio Out to 5.1 adapter if we wants to have a better sound:

https://www.amazon.com/Digital-Optical-Analog-Surround-Decoder/dp/B07CVR9R77

But to confirm, I'd need to see the digital audio out port.

Those HDMI ports are likely input, not output.

1. Don't uninstall the driver; the driver installer should uninstall it for you, and then install the correct driver upon reboot. Disconnect from the internet while it's installing just to be safe.
   
   
2. That's one of the problems with the default Windows driver
   
   
3. Well... shit. Could be that your laptop just has really shitty integrated sound. And that statics sounds like it is badly isolated from the rest of the computer. You could also try returning/replacing if you can still do that. I'd return it and get a different laptop altogether.
   
   Have a look at the Behringer UCA202 (cheap and still OK, but bulky), or some other USB DAC in the meantime.
   
   There's also this and (my recommendation, if you can afford it) this. They'll give you way better sound than any laptop can provide, and they'll be completely free from any crackling or interference of any kind since they're outside of the computer.

Here's an amazon.es dac for 40Euro, in the same vein as /u/Senkaichu :: HiFiMe ES9023. It's a common mobile dac and used often enough in industry to be a good, if cheap, solution.

Last year's model of Schiit Modi - looks great, sounds great, unbeatable at this price

You'll need a USB cable for it but they practically grow on trees at this point

This 7.1 HDMI surround sound decoder plus ASIO4ALL might do the trick on the super cheap. But the triangle rule is def in effect.

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Good/Cheap/Easy ...pick two.

I did a bit more digging around, it's kinda complicated.

So the recommended power supply is 9vAC. Line 6 sells one for like $40.

Apparently even if it's not stated, it can also run on 12vDC center-positive. And I didn't realize that the DP-01 had a 12v output. A few companies sell what they call a "Line 6 converter" (such as Truetone) so you might be able to run it with that off the 12v output on the DP-01.

Don't return it and buy it again, it's guaranteed to happen due to being a compact computer. You want just this honestly

ah, well therein lies the issue, though, as with all connectors if it can be plugged in it can be converted.

http://www.amazon.com/NuForce-U192S-High-Performance-Asynchronous-Converter/dp/B007XIK39A

http://www.computeraudiophile.com/f6-dac-digital-analog-conversion/15-universal-serial-bus-industry-standard-cables-connectors-and-communications-protocols-between-computers-and-electronic-devices-spdif-converters-shootout-15327/

In any case, audophilia is a slippery slope that will quickly empty your wallet. If you were looking for a cheap solution, then a 3.5mm extender will do just fine. Amazon has a amazon basics version I would imagine for cheap.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00UY6TS9E I.E. something like this.

I agree, the addition does more good than harm, that makes sense. I keep reading that different converters have different "sounds" which freaks me out about buying a cheap one versus something like this (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PU3R6KY/)

The only solution I see above is buying a new av receiver + set of speakers, which I believe is far more expensive than buying a 5.1 home cinema with blue-ray/dvd player integrated. That is why I see the first option only as the last resort...

What about this?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B071KXR3G2/ref=dp_olp_new_mbc?ie=UTF8&condition=new

It has HDMI LPMC 5.1 in (exactly what Nintendo Switch uses), and optical/analog out (that should fit in the blue-ray/dvd player). What I do not see is the splitter function, but there should exist an splitter with this same compatibility...

Yes, the adapter I'm currently using in conjunction with a normal Boss PSU is: https://www.amazon.com/Truetone-C35-Converter-Power-Supply/dp/B0040PX5QW

>Disclaimer: it requires the power supply that looks like a headphone jack, so you can't use the OneSpot chain power supplies on this baby.

http://amzn.com/B0040PX5QW

They should make coax optical to 7.1 analog out boxes, I'd do a search for those.

Something like this maybe?
https://www.amazon.com/Digital-Optical-Analog-Surround-Decoder/dp/B07CVR9R77

It may not reverse polarity, which you also need. TrueTone/visual sound makes the correct adapter for like $5.

https://www.amazon.com/Truetone-C35-Converter-Power-Supply/dp/B0040PX5QW

Yes, I'm in the same boat. I want a more powerful headphone amp, but don't want to add another piece of equipment into the mix just for headphones.

Side note - (jokingly - it's $1900 USD) - RME makes some amazing interfaces, their Audiophile interface supposedly has a killer headphone amp!

https://www.rme-audio.de/en/products/adi_2-pro_be.php

https://www.amazon.com/RME-ADI2PRO-AD-Converter/dp/B01MTWM896

USB to 3.5mm, you mean a tiny-dac... Then yes... If it's something like the dragonfly then yes... Otherwise, no. A cable wont work. You need a dac to turn the digital (usb) signal into analog for normal headphones. AKA a digial to analog converter (dac).

edit: dragonfly is 99$ a bit high for what you prob need. I would look at something like this if you're tough on cash http://www.amazon.com/HiFiMeDIY-Digital-Analog-Converter-PCM2706/dp/B00CWVDPC0/ref=sr_1_cc_1?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1458415493&sr=1-1-catcorr&keywords=usb+tiny+dac

I later remember that there exists standalone LPCM decoders (like this https://www.amazon.com/HDMI-LPCM-Analog-Surround-Decoder/dp/B071KXR3G2), so if your system allows direct audio input you could try it ;)

I think this is it (check the pics carefully):

https://www.amazon.com/Truetone-C35-Converter-Power-Supply/dp/B0040PX5QW

This one is only $50 and will do the same thing.

http://www.amazon.com/NuForce-U192S-High-Performance-Asynchronous-Converter/dp/B007XIK39A/ref=pd_sim_sbs_misc_1?ie=UTF8&refRID=0X1PXB1ZPD7CB81XKCZT

Buy this:

https://www.amazon.com/Truetone-C35-Converter-Power-Supply/dp/B0040PX5QW/