(Part 2) Reddit mentions: The best recording signal processors

That would work, but a couple notes:

1. The mixer: Keep in mind a cheap mixer will introduce more hiss/noise into the system, but proper gain-staging will help minimise this. It can also convert the stereo signal of the turntable to mono if the turntable won't do that itself.
   
2. If your cables to the mixer and/or amplifier will be very long or run along power cables then it would be better to use balanced signals (typically XLR, sometimes TRS when used correctly) to avoid buzz being introduced. You would want a mixer that has balanced outputs and inputs, and possibly a direct box to convert the unbalanced signal from the turnable to balanced if the mixer isn't close to it. With the right direct box and an adapter you technically wouldn't need a mixer as the direct box can convert to mono, but you might want a mixer anyway as the signal level from the turntable may be too low without it, plus then you can plug in other devices.
   
3. The speakers are 4 Ohm @ 500W continuous and the amplifier is rated for either 4 x 1600 Watts @ 2 Ohms or 2 x 3000 Watts @ 4 Ohms. It's okay that it doesn't match perfectly if the amp ohms are lower than the speaker ohms - it just means the amp won't be able to drive as much power through the speakers, which is probably good in this case since 1600W is too much. So running each speaker to 1 output on the amplifier is probably the best bet.
   
4. I don't know how the speakers are set up in the venue, and this might be the venue's responsibility unless they're your own speakers, but there are a couple extras that could help audio quality:
   
   1. A graphic equalizer would be a welcome addition to adjust the sound so that it sounds best for the room - ideally you'd also use a calibration microphone and software to take measurements and see where the peaks and valleys are in the frequency response, but it can also be done manually if you have a decent ear and listen closely - don't just make it V-shaped or some other nice pattern because it looks nice.
      
   2. It might be useful to use a signal processor that can independently add delay to the signal for each speaker so that they can be time-aligned. Sound travels pretty slow through air - about 1 millisecond per foot. This is getting a little advanced for just a DJ setup, but a professional system would consider this IF the speaker placement demands/allows it and the venue is large enough. This can be done using a combination of measuring tape and ear, or ideally a calibration microphone and software.

First question - I use exactly one of those SSR's in my sous vide controller to control a 500W cartridge heater. You will have to use a heat sink. Even driving a 500W load it gets too hot without one, even at lower duty cycles. You can get them with a bulky heat sink that works great, but I salvaged a chipset heat sink from an old motherboard that was a bit more compact. You might even need active cooling (a fan) driving a 10A load depending on how big of a heat sink is practical, which is a big complication.

Side note: Big Clive has a detailed teardown of that relay where he discusses it in quite a bit of detail.

Second question: GPIO2 has a pullup resistor because that is needed for the ESP to boot, so it will always be high at start. Really the best option is to get a more convenient ESP8266 board like a Wemos D1 Mini or NodeMCU, which expose more GPIOs that don't have pullups. GPIO 4 or 5 are what I tend to use.

I'm not sure what you mean by a PNP-NPN pair, something like this? You can just use a level shifter, but I'm 99.99% sure you can drive those Fostek relays directly with 3.3V no problem. They are fine operating near the voltage threshold because they have a driver circuit inside.

Metal container will murder the wifi signal for sure. Especially since that enclosure is probably grounded since it's a mains powered appliance it'll act like a Faraday cage. I'd be surprised if you really got any signal at all.

Just my $0.02 and don't let me stop you, but you'd probably be safest buying something premade like the Sonoff TH16. It's rated for 16 amps, but you can assume it actually lives up to that (Itead is pretty legit) so that should be a decent safety margin. And it's an ESP8266 board that has all the headers exposed for programming so you can hack it to your heart's content. If you're in it for the learning then by all means get your design working... and then buy something made professionally to use for real. It's just not worth the risk of burning the house down when the Sonoff devices are so affordable.

Also agreeing with /u/lukeimyomama, an SSR is a bad choice here since they tend to fail short. If the heater has a built in safety that's not the worst thing, but still I think I'd rather have a coil relay. They also dissipate way less heat (virtually none), which is a major annoyance if you use the SSR. The biggest reason to prefer an SSR is that you can PWM them since they switch states very fast. That's why I use it in my sous vide, so I can have pseudo-analog temperature control, but that's not what you want to do. You are controlling the power at the heater, so the relay will be open or closed all the time. A higher current rated coil relay will be much easier.

/u/flexcube - sorry to hear about the loss of your gear - glad that you're able to replace it.

This looks like a good setup - I am a GH4 shooter and it is a great camera.

That said, you might want to consider getting the [1.349,00€ GH4R] (http://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B0156X5MYO/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1638&creative=19454&creativeASIN=B0156X5MYO&linkCode=as2&tag=hybrcamerev02-21) for V-LOG and increased dynamic range.

In addition, if you expose to the right with V-Log, the GH4 becomes a better low light camera than with the original firmware - and can get clean results up to ISO 5000 (or even 6400), as seen here:

• [V-LOG L VS CINE D - Low Light Test - Panasonic GH4 by Mitch Lally] (https://youtu.be/n97zc5zIA70) (please note the lack of noise at ISO 6400 in the V-LOG shot)
  
  
• [Band Promo // GH4 // V-Log by Play Reel Productions] (https://vimeo.com/146034870) (crowd shots at ISO 5000)
  
  
• [GH4 V-Log Low light test by Iban Corominas] (https://vimeo.com/146841470)
  
  
• [GH4 // V-Log // Low light test 5000 iso by Play Reel Productions] (https://vimeo.com/142443785)
  
  With this [687,96€ (shipping included) 12-35mm lens] (http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/707-53477-19255-0/1?icep_ff3=2&pub=5575034783&toolid=10001&campid=5337235943&customid=&icep_item=391441605632&ipn=psmain&icep_vectorid=229487&kwid=902099&mtid=824&kw=lg) from the UK, the camera plus the lens will cost you 2.036,96€.
  
  I would also consider an [inexpensive 3 axis gimbal] (http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/707-53477-19255-0/1?icep_ff3=2&pub=5575034783&toolid=10001&campid=5337235943&customid=&icep_item=262217468852&ipn=psmain&icep_vectorid=229487&kwid=902099&mtid=824&kw=lg), and a [balanced XLR mic] (http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/707-53477-19255-0/1?icep_ff3=2&pub=5575034783&toolid=10001&campid=5337235943&customid=&icep_item=371397275267&ipn=psmain&icep_vectorid=229487&kwid=902099&mtid=824&kw=lg) with an [impedance matching cable] (http://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B00EHTIHA0/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1638&creative=19454&creativeASIN=B00EHTIHA0&linkCode=as2&tag=hybrcamerev02-21) instead of the Glidecam and the unbalanced 3.5mm Videomic.
  
  Hope this is helpful and good luck with your new camera!
  
  

There are tons of outboard fx units out there -

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xw5RtdIEzz4



You could go with a small desk mixer with built in FX, but some may not have all the ones you're looking for -

(just an example)

• https://www.amazon.com/Mackie-PROFX4V2-4-Channel-Compact-Effects/dp/B00VUU702A/
  
  
• https://www.amazon.com/Yamaha-MG10XU-10-Input-Stereo-Effects/dp/B00IBIVL42/
  
  
• https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-1202FX-BEHRINGER-XENYX/dp/B000J5Y214/
  
  ---------------
  
  
  or a dedicated multi-FX processor
  
  
• https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-Virtualizer-FX2000-High-Performance-Multi-Engine/dp/B003EZXMS0
  
  
• https://www.amazon.com/TC-Electronic-Reverb-Effects-Processor/dp/B001R5G70O
  
  
• https://www.amazon.com/TC-Electronic-M100-ELECTRONIC/dp/B0731N1HY3
  
  
  ---------------
  
  or a dedicated vocal fx unit (some of these are made for live performance, hence the foot switches)
  
  
• https://www.amazon.com/Roland-VT-4-Voice-Transformer/dp/B07JKLMDGX/
  
  
• https://www.amazon.com/Helicon-Voice-Vocal-Effects-Processor/dp/B00GM0NX3S/
  
  
• https://www.amazon.com/Eventide-H9-Core-Harmonizer-Pedal/dp/B01CY237P6/
  
  
• https://www.amazon.com/TC-Helicon-Effects-Processor-Burgundy-996369005/dp/B074TRXB21/
  
  
  There's a plethora of them... just hunt around on sweetwater, musicansfriend, or BHphoto to see some ideas.
  
  ---------------
  
  The Roland is pretty cool , because it lets you adjust things on the fly easier -
  
  (this is like what the Beastie Boys used for "Intergalactic")
  
  Roland VT-3
  
  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZeHHV1LPfOo (@1:02)
  
  Roland VT-4 demos
  
  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xw5RtdIEzz4
  
  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b5kkYemu-gs
  
  
  

> And I want to simply smooth out the Fq response in my listening area

Laudable goal. If I were to start doing room eq myself, I would probably opt for one of two:

1. Amplifier/processor with automated room EQ. This usually falls in to the "high price" category. The NAD C390DD integrated digital amplifier is supposed to be getting a room calibration update sometime, but it comes at a price: $2600 USD.
   
2. Measurement microphone (I think something like the Behringer ECM-8000) with a USB audio interface providing phantom power, and Room EQ Wizard will make your life a whole lot easier. If the $130 price for a mic and USB interface is too high, you may check with someone dealing with pro sound has one to rent for a weekend.
   
3. For the EQ, I would look on the pro/live/studio sound of things, just make sure that you find one that is dual-channel and can operate in unbalanced mode. 15 bands and up. Behringer has a very budget minded model (Amazon link, $99 that accepts both balanced and unbalanced, and has 15 bands. They also have a 31-band equalizer for $142. Disclaimer: I do not own, and has not tried it, but I'm giving the recommendation based on price, specs, and features, not ultimate quality - people have had varying success with equipment from them.

Yes, it usually isn't part of the package and you have to buy separately, but if your amp allows you to save presets, you can create some and then circle through them with the footswitch. For example this one is for my amp. It is also cheaper if you want to save some money :)

Use it last, but I'd recommend copping this to put right after. You may need a DI at a show, might as well get one with a cab sim in it. Note, this needs power.

Together playing it sounds great in my headphones, just waiting for a time to try it in the sound system of my practice space.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M63UBDR/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 .. currently unavailable but there are others like it.

and for a sub driver - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N5D5ONB/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I have to put a fan on the sub amp, but then it runs cool (if I really crank the thumps) :)

If you want to limit the amount of editing, I'm curious as to why you want 4k for something as simple as a talking head. I could see if you are keying with a green screen for a possibly better key or shooting something detailed. The crop could be useful if you're going to push in and use it for a sort of fake 2nd shot, but I don't think it's absolutely necessary. There's also the added time of downsampling all your clips.

Add to the fact that you want a side by side of the person and the presentations makes your talking head even smaller. If you plan to deliver in 1920 x 1080 that leaves you with 2x 960 x 540 images (edge to edge, side by side centered in the middle keeping the aspect ratio) for the presentation and the person talking.

That said, I own a GH4 and mostly shoot in 4k so maybe I'm being hypocritical. I've used it for green screen interviews, concerts and other various events. I've always downsampled to deliver in 1080. FYI there's no video time limit on the GH4, but it's a bit above your budget plus you would need a lens.

Audio wise I've used a wired LAV (similar if not the same as the one you posted) via XLR to 1/8" transformer direct into my GH4. External audio recorder will probably give you better results, but that also adds more edit time although Premiere and Final Cut X do a pretty good job at syncing audio. Make sure you record internally on the camera also so it can analyze the audio and match it up.

Specs on Atomos site for the Ninja 2 say it can handle all these resolutions and frame rates.
> 1080i60, 1080i59.94, 1080i50, 1080p30, 1080p25, 1080p24, 1080p23.98, 1080pSF23.98, 1080pSF24, 1080pSF25, 1080pSF30, 720p60, 720p59.94, 720p50, SD 480i, 576i

Would typically go Glove -> DS-1 -> Phase 90 -> Obscura -> Oceans 11

OD into distortion is pretty much non-negotiable, the other way around won’t really do anything. However, phase into distortion is a great sound that I like a lot, and reverb into distortion is great for shoegaze. Delay into phase is fun, I run delay into chorus and then into reverb on one of my pedalboards for some huge dreamy modulated sounds.

You might have to turn the minibrute down on volume a lot if the non-distortion pedals start to distort, I sometimes use one of these as a passive attenuator to drop the sound levels if I’m having clipping issues.

Get a passive DI box and run the XLR master out to that then RCA from the DI to the tube amp.

You need to bring the +4dBu output of the mixer's XLR down to -10dBu of consumer line level audio. And a passive stereo DI is the best way to do that. That particular one linked above also gives you another ground lift and some gain flexibility with the volume pots. But there's a ton of different options.

I'm just curious as to what your project is? testing the sound blocking of various building techniques or something similar?

an SPL meter is what you are looking for http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sound_pressure#Sound_pressure_level .

First question is are you just looking for relative differences in apparent loudness between your boxes? The reason being is that apparent loudness measured in DB is slightly different than SPL which is an absolute measurement of soundpressure. Rather than trying to rewrite the books and get overly specific sticking to a SPL meter measuring in the A or C scale will work just fine if all you care about is how humans perceive the loudness.

Unless you are going to need logging, calibration to reference standards and all that jazz you are going to find that nearly all of the commercial SPL meters for industrial noise or audio are going to come with the A and C scales which have different weighting. C is probably what I would suggest these days. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/A-weighting

If you are just doing a relative comparison between different box materials, using a SPL meter 1 meter from the box at a set height will probably give you very use able results. I don't have any knowledge on specific meters amazon is chaulk full of decent ones at reasonable prices http://www.amazon.com/American-Recorder-Technologies-Sound-Pressure/dp/B000I4ZVHU/ref=sr_1_2?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1420611086&sr=1-2&keywords=sound+level+meter


frequency breakdown and all that will just muddy results and increase your data set and probably won't tell you much more than SPL meters unless you really want pretty graphs. If so you would have to use a reference microphone http://www.amazon.com/Nady-Reference-Measurement-Condenser-Microphone/dp/B00095MG6M/ref=sr_1_5?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1420612085&sr=1-5&keywords=reference+microphone In conjunction with sometype of audio interface ( you can get decent USB ones these days) and finally software to record and log your frequency response http://en.softonic.com/s/audio-spectrum-analyzer-software-free

I'm no acoustical engineer or audio engineer. I just have done this readings from time to time as both my hobby of music production, and for various sound proofing projects. Anyone serious about their home studio uses a reference mic to measure the response and then does their sound deadening accordingly.

Thanks for replying!

You mean something like this?

First off, good idea, but i run the sound from my laptop via usb to the mixer, which does not generate any noise. this looks more like a solution for my problem, in the end he uses a double insulated charger and theres no noise, i should look for smth like that!

> The rest on the left are short for center, left, right, surround left, sorround right speakers, just ignore them as you are using the ones at the bottom.

Those are inputs, the ones on the bottom are outputs. Some DVD players have an advanced output just for surround sound systems (like this one). OP will pretty much just use Aux 1 though. He may use Aux 2 but from his post it doesn't seem like it. He will need an Digital Audio Out to RCA Audio adapter. Something like:

https://www.amazon.com/Digital-Optical-Analog-Converter-Adapter/dp/B003OND0N4

Or a Digital Audio Out to 5.1 adapter if we wants to have a better sound:

https://www.amazon.com/Digital-Optical-Analog-Surround-Decoder/dp/B07CVR9R77

But to confirm, I'd need to see the digital audio out port.

Those HDMI ports are likely input, not output.

Thank you so much! I ended up getting a Rolls DB24 Stereo Direct Interface because it has two outputs, and a lot of good input options.

Yes, the adapter I'm currently using in conjunction with a normal Boss PSU is: https://www.amazon.com/Truetone-C35-Converter-Power-Supply/dp/B0040PX5QW

>Disclaimer: it requires the power supply that looks like a headphone jack, so you can't use the OneSpot chain power supplies on this baby.

http://amzn.com/B0040PX5QW

It may not reverse polarity, which you also need. TrueTone/visual sound makes the correct adapter for like $5.

https://www.amazon.com/Truetone-C35-Converter-Power-Supply/dp/B0040PX5QW

They should make coax optical to 7.1 analog out boxes, I'd do a search for those.

Something like this maybe?
https://www.amazon.com/Digital-Optical-Analog-Surround-Decoder/dp/B07CVR9R77

The place I used to work has a handful of thse: https://www.amazon.com/Rapco-Horizon-LTIGLBLOX-Laptop-Interface/dp/B003MLBEYK

Has a ground lift, and as long as you don't care about stereo, you don't have to worry about using extra connectors or adapters.

I also have the Radial ProAV2. Which is 2 ch & accepts 1/4, RCA & 1/8" https://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/ProAV2--radial-proav2-2-channel-passive-a-v-direct-box

What kind of sound system at the other end? PA system with a mixer (live sound) or home stereo equipment?

A regular stereo AUX cord is unbalanced, which is not ideal for running long distances. Technically you should use a DI box like this one (http://www.amazon.com/rolls-DB24-Stereo-Direct-Interface/dp/B001032GK8) to convert to a balanced signal over XLR cables. If you have a mixer on the other end you can go right into 2 channels on the board.

Bluetooth is not idea for sound quality (due to compression of the audio signal), and the general rule of thumb is that Bluetooth range is ~30ft, so 50ft may or may not work.

just look up db meter or sound pressure level meter on an iPhone or andriod device and it will give you a ball park by not means is it the best result but it will give you an idea or buy one of These

I think this is it (check the pics carefully):

https://www.amazon.com/Truetone-C35-Converter-Power-Supply/dp/B0040PX5QW

Buy this:

https://www.amazon.com/Truetone-C35-Converter-Power-Supply/dp/B0040PX5QW/

This one:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01CY237P6/

I was a grounding issue with the laptop I was using here is the link to the adapter I bought to fix it Rapco Horizon LTIGLBLOX Laptop Interface With Ground lift https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003MLBEYK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_CYbDyb847KGTH

I teach music technology at a college, and I have my students purchase this in their third semester (mix listening class). However, for what you described in comments already, I think that the radioshack meter is probably sufficient.