Reddit mentions of Zacro 18 in 1 Professional Opening Pry Tool Repair Kit with Non-Abrasive Nylon Spudgers and Pack of 2 Anti-Static Tweezers

Yesterday I took some time and blacked out the chrome on my headlights and installed Diode Dynamics Switchback C-Lights on my 2015 Premium. I think it turned out pretty well, as you can see from the before / after photos above.

It was pretty warm out and - while I left the headlights in the sun for a while before opening them - I didn't bake them and thought they came apart fairly (10 minutes / side) easily. Overall, the job took about 5 hours and I'd rate it a 6/10 for difficulty.

Total cost came out to be about $155, Rallysport Direct had a 10% sale so I got the boards and retro-rubber for $150, and got a $5 can of matte black Krylon paint + primer at Lowes. I also purchased some Frog Tape but didn't end up using it.

Some thoughts...

I'm not a huge fan of the turn signal connectors on the LED boards. I would have preferred the wires to be about 12" longer, and I ended up stripping a section of my (blue) turn signal wire, soldering, and then taping them (would prefer heat shrink tubing, but it worked) instead of using the vampire taps.

I also didn't use the (i think) T-10 connector. I couldn't find anywhere in the headlights that I liked to mount the drivers, and there wasn't a good place to run the wires out, so instead I removed the socket from the light, cut / stripped / soldered the white and black wires to the driver to the red and black C-light wires. Then, I used VHB tape to stick the driver boxes to the back of the headlights, and sealed the holes with some extra retro-rubber.

I should have bought the DRL harness, because even though I disconnected my DRL resistor I couldn't confidently find the place to connect it to the new C-boards for DRLs. I'm not sure if I got a different / newer model of C lights than most sites describe, because the red wire went from the driver board to the LED board. I may buy that and connect it in the future.

It was a bit tricky putting the C-light diffuser back in over the LED boards. The little clips wanted to scratch the newly painted surface, and the LED boards didn't fit as nicely as I thought they would. I eventually got them together, but I had to take them apart and touch up once.

Fingers crossed on fogging. If I do get fogging, I have a few silica gel packets that I'm going to stuff in there for a day or two to see if that knocks down the moisture.

The stock silicon sealant is pretty gross, but cleans up easier than I expected. Regular soap washes it off, but Goo-Gone might not be a bad idea.

Pulling the bumper was pretty easy. About a dozen clips / screws, and it popped right off without too much trouble. I put a mover's blanked down (which really wasn't necessary - you aren't going to mess anything up on the bottom of the bumper) and had enough play that I didn't bother disconnecting the fog lights and turn signals.

Either have a helper, or something reflective enough that you can see the lights sitting in the car. You'll want to test all the light settings, turn signals / hazards, and test with the handbrake on and off.

I did everything myself and didn't feel like a helper would have made things any easier.

Having a set of body panel tools and spudger kit is invaluable, both for this job and in general. Just spend the $20, it'll pay for itself.

I did scare myself taking apart the headlights - I hadn't removed the stock bulbs in my c-lights, and one of them broke on me. Fortunately it didn't damage anything. Make sure you remove those c-light bulbs first if you want to avoid a sphincter tightening surprise.

If I were to do it again, I would probably get some frosting paint and paint the c-light diffusers. It looks good, but I think I would prefer the full C-light diffuser to appear a bit whiter and even out the light from the LED boards. If I end up taking them apart again I will probably do this.

I didn't replace my halogen bulbs - the extra $100 or so it would cost to switch to LEDs wasn't in my budget. I'll probably do that not too far down the line, but for now it looks fine with the orange halogens. Since I disconnected the high beam DRL resistor, it'll only matter at night anyways. I thought about doing an HID retrofit, but again - budget.

I didn't replace the amber side-marker covers with tinted ones. They darken up a bit when you paint the chrome under them, but I wouldn't mind having them a shade or two darker.

It looks pretty good, a very worthwhile mod for one person to do in 5 hours for ~$150.

​

​

those flat plastic 'spudger' tools may come in handy. like a thin plastic screwdriver.

https://www.amazon.com/Zacro-Professional-Non-Abrasive-Spudgers-Anti-Static/dp/B01F52ZPBQ

If you plan to disassemble it completely (to upgrade the cpu for example), I would recommend one of these kit : https://www.amazon.com/Zacro-Professional-Non-Abrasive-Spudgers-Anti-Static/dp/B01F52ZPBQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1487607985&sr=8-1&keywords=laptop+opening+kit

>It's a bitch to remove though.

I found one of the tools in this kit to be super helpful when it came to removing the rubber plug for the fire selector detent/spring.

If you're going to be prying open plastic electronics parts, please consider getting some plastic prying tools. Or at least improvising with something similar.

The cooling solution is more than adequate... when it works. The problem is the quality control stinks. So, if you have a problem, deal with it. If you don't, be happy that you don't.

Now, if you do have heat issues, and need to resolve it, Alienware provides you with all the documentation you need to do the job correctly. Go to the dell support site, look up your machine, and download the full users manual. It will tell you how to take that machine apart step by step. Read the manual, go to Amazon to get a couple plastic tools to help open the machine up. A kit like this is amazing for opening up electronics. That allows you to get between the plastic pieces without damaging them. Also get some new thermal paste, appropriate pads, and decent alcohol. I use this stuff here because it is a cheap, big ass bottle of 99.9% pure alcohol.

The pry tools are kind of difficult to wedge in there, so you have to be careful to not damage the plastic ring that acts as a buffer between the display and the back case. It takes about 30-60 minutes start to finish depending on how comfortable you get with it.

Links:
Video Guide: https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/Oneplus+3+Rear+Facing+Camera+Replacement/72752

Ebay kit:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/For-OnePlus-3-OnePlus-3T-Rear-Back-Camera-Replacement-Part-16MP/173364683506?hash=item285d5722f2:g:U1gAAOSwFFZbIjnV

Extra pry tool kit:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01F52ZPBQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The wifi antenna wires are part of the LCD panel assembly. You'd have to buy new antennae wires and then route them up through the hinge and back up in the panel display. So, you'd need some pry tools to separate the bezel of the panel display. Which could be dicey as there is a risk to cracking the display panel when removing the bezel.

Buy a new antenna assembly

Edit: Shoulda check manual this model has a removable antennae assembly.

The large capacitors in a PSU can hold a charge for days, so after you open it, wear rubber gloves, and do not touch ANYTHING metal inside the PSU. Here is some safety equipment to consider:

https://www.amazon.com/Electrical-Insulated-Electrician-Protective-Insulating/dp/B07S878KNX/

https://www.amazon.com/Magid-Glove-Safety-M011B12-Electrical/dp/B078GLBCLD/

This kit has several plastic tools with it that would be safe, just don't use the metal or metal-tipped ones:

https://www.amazon.com/Zacro-Professional-Non-Abrasive-Spudgers-Anti-Static/dp/B01F52ZPBQ/

This kit is the one I use, the metal tool all the way to they left has been perfect for prying prints off of any surface.

Ever since i switched to glass, all I have to do his hit the print with a hammer and it pops right off. By the way I'm using a watch makers hammer, not a 5lb maul. Also the 5x7 glass will cover your leveling screws, you can get a cheap set of glass cutters from lowes for $4. I used them to change the ends of the glass to leave the leaving screws exposed. Its not necessary but makes life easier. I've also found these clips to be a perfect fit for picture frame glass. Hope this helps you in some way.

I guess it's moot if you already bought that set, but I like this spudger kit since it has variety of devices instead of a bunch of the same ones.

For the one you got, you'll probably want to use the flat end. Push it into the gap just a little and then twist it to pry the case apart. The exact technique will depend on exactly which ThinkPad you are opening.