Reddit mentions: The best computer cleaning & repair products

I'm not able to answer all of you're questions, but I'll kick off your post by answering the ones that I can:
>
> 1) ... Am I over and/or under purchasing at any spots? Especially when it comes to CPU Cooling and Power Supplies, I really have no idea what I am looking at when choosing between them.

Other people here will be able to better answer this question -- but generally for high end gaming I see people shooting for the 700-850W mark on power supplies. I personally run an 850. A lot of people say that's overkill, but if you're purchasing a decent psu brand, at least bronze certified, the worst that happens is you're spending $20 for the security that you're not under buying. It won't over-power your computer if that's your concern.

As for the cooler -- it really depends on how much you'd like to overclock. If you're not pushing the line, this cooler is probably a little bit overkill, but if you have the money and the space in your case, cooler's always better.

> 2) ... Is this an easy problem to solve?

No idea, sorry =/

> 3) I want to take advantage of the G-Sync feature

Yep you're good to go.

> 4) I considered adding another 16 GB of RAM

Probably overkill for gaming and easily upgradable if you change your mind. The one thing I will point out here is that this Noctua cooler may prevent you from fitting 4 sticks of RAM on your motherboard. Just something to keep in mind.

> 5) Is there any reason not to go ahead and build this now?

You may want to take a look at the Black Friday deals coming up, but likely it won't save you a ton of money on primary components like these. We will see some next gen CPUs early-ish 2018 as well as Nvidia's next cards, but it's not like you'd be postponing only a month -- there's no known date, so it depends on how much you want a PC, and how "current" you need your parts to be. My thought is, just go for it.

> 6) Any other comments or concerns that stem from the selected parts?

I'm an Intel guy, especially when it comes to gaming, so I tend to recommend the 8700k -- but a ton of people love Ryzen too. Just do you.

> 1) What do I need to make sure that I am ready to put this together?

I've got one of these at home, and I love it. Other than that all hardware should come with mounting brackets and stuff that you need. Looks like your case comes with 3 stock fans -- I can't speak to quality or that specific case's airflow, but it's definitely plenty to get you up and running. Once you're overclocking and/or monitoring temps, you can decide if you need more/better fans for your case. Some people like to purchase thermal paste separately for higher quality stuff, but your parts should come with enough.

> 2) Water cooling seems awesome but is also terrifying. Can I get by without it?

Same. I use an air cooler, smaller than the one you're buying, and I'm overclocking -- granted it's a modest overclock, but I haven't even bothered pushing temps. Air cooling is fine unless you need the looks, or need to go the extra mile, overclocking.

> 3) What are you guys playing that will look fucking sweet on this new setup?

The truth is the games I play are mostly not meant to be pretty or even really played on Ultra (PUBG and Overwatch mainly) but I love the look and feel of Destiny, Wolfenstein, Fallout 4, Witcher 3, and Titanfall 2.

> 4) I also need a new chair

This is what I use. Though my wife gave me the "no racecar chair" mandate.

> 5) ... static can be an issue when putting this all together.

I have wooden floors, so I've never had an issue -- but I know several people that have built on carpet without problem. Not really a question I can speak to though.

1. My first instinct was to guesstimate around $850. That's mostly because of the extra things to get started that you need. The monitor, keyboard/mouse, etc.
   
   
2. It's very easy to get it up and going, the hardest part really is just the cable management. This wire goes here and there, but the wires and where you plug them in should be labeled. Building a PC is kind of like hooking up a console. Controllers only go in the controller slot, power plug only goes into the power slot. Things just will not fit in the space they're not supposed to, so don't force them. :)
   
   
3. I don't have any experience doing this, but I know that you definitely can. IMO, I'm probably just biased because I'm a big time PC guy but I can't really think of a lot of games where you would want to use a controller instead of a keyboard and mouse. There's sidescroller games, point and click games, stardew valley and some others.
   
   
4. You'd probably like CS:GO, There is GTA and other similar games. Check out Steam and the Humble Bundle as that's where you'll probably get most of your games. :)
   
   
5. I'm sure there are some PC exclusive games that you and your son would enjoy together. It just depends on what you guys like.
   
   

6. You basically build it and that's it, there will be dust in there but it shouldn't get too crazy. Just clean it whenever it looks dirty enough to where you should spray it out. Probably every six months to a year. I like to use this PC Vacuum, it advertises as a vacuum but it's just a loud air pusher, you'll save money with that instead of buying something like this.
   

   
   

   Computer maintenance outside of hardware/physical stuff. There's free anti-virus and other programs like that. Windows 10 comes with Microsoft Defender.
   

   
   

   PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
   

   
   

   Type|Item|Price
   

   ----|:----|:----
   CPU | Intel Core i5-6500 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor | $199.00 @ Amazon
   Motherboard | MSI H110M Pro-VD Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard | $52.95 @ Amazon
   Memory | Corsair Vengeance LPX 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR4-2133 Memory | $49.99 @ Amazon
   Storage | Seagate Barracuda 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $49.00 @ Amazon
   Video Card | MSI GeForce GTX 1060 6GB 6GB GT OCV1 Video Card | $249.99 @ Amazon
   Case | Corsair 100R ATX Mid Tower Case | $39.99 @ Amazon
   Power Supply | EVGA SuperNOVA G2 550W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply | $79.99 @ Amazon
   Monitor | Asus VX228H 21.5" 1920x1080 60Hz Monitor | $119.99 @ Amazon
   Keyboard | AmazonBasics KU-0833 Wired Standard Keyboard | $11.32 @ Amazon
   Mouse | Logitech SBF-96 Wired Optical Mouse | $8.70 @ Amazon
   | Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
   | Total | $860.92
   | Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-12-14 18:14 EST-0500 |
   
   A little overbudget lol :)

That's a good question. Not to sure about the UV white glow.

My preferred fans have always been the Scythe Gentle Typhoons, however due to business decisions between Nidec Servo and Scythe, the Gentle Typhoons are now available through several private labeling and OEM orders only now.

Coolerguys.com: Gentle Typhoon's Link PWM Link

Performance-PCS: Darkside Typhoon's Link

Heard great things about EK Vardars and Noctua's. I own a set of the Industrial PWM 3000RPM's in my VR rig. Those are loud at full speed haha.

You would take the same precautions you would with an air-cooled system with a water-cooled setup. It really comes down to how you build your system. A solid fitting connection using compression fittings should have no problem as long as you've leak tested your system prior to filling your loop.

Check out this great tutorial from B Negative from Overclock.net with leak testing: Link

Paper and cloth towels are your best friend when setting up a loop especially on your first go around. Better safer than sorry. Maintenance is easier then an oil change on your car. If you plan to just using distilled water, you will have to add a little more a few months down the road. The most you would have to do is clean out your rig from any dust that's accumulated on the radiators and fans.

Metro Vacuum is my best friend: Link

Feel free to change the water yearly or on your best convenience. It's really up to you as long as you monitor it you should be ok.

The rule of thumb is 120mm radiator for every component with an additional 120mm for overclocking. Now this totally depends on how thick your rads, speed and static pressure of your fans. The fans mentioned above Gentle Typhoon and EK Vardars have a great sound and static pressure ratio.

We can go into more detail with this later if you like.

Copper tubing was actually trial and error. I imagine it being easier then acrylic hardline tubing. Haven't tried that yet. The concept is similar though using totally different tools. I will say if you plan on copper tubing, make sure you have the proper tools and some sand! The sand is used inside the tubes when bending to minimize the kinks that can occur when pressure is asserted against it.

There are really only two types of pumps available D5 and DDC type pumps. DDC pumps are great for portable builds while D5 is generally a stronger pump. Again we can go into this further a little later.

Anytime ;)

Its tough but you need to convince your customers first. I ran routes that included small restaurants and larger food processing plants. Outside of our three warmest months, I rarely touched a B&G. I used monitors and baits. I carried a tool bag instead of a B&G. In the bag was ant, cockroach and rodent baits along with snap traps, insect monitors as well as putty knives for inspecting. I also had a brush or two for some light cleaning. ect. IPM is not the elimination of pesticides but rather the selection of low impact products and techniques. The most striking examples of IPM appear in cases where you do Monthly Services or "maintenance treatments. A good example is when you run into cove base. You COULD spay the surface of that cove base with a given residual. How long do you think that residual will las in a typical office setting? The reality is that you MAY get 15 -21 days of detectable amounts from the cove base. Conditions vary. But look at that cove base pic again. Do you see how the bottom of the cove base forms a small half tunnel as it meets the floor? That is an EXCELLENT highway for most pests. Remember that the mass of a pest's time is spent hidden as much as they can. This tunnel is like a hidden highway.That is a BETTER place for your insecticide. So in this scenario, let's say there are pavement ant under the slab of this office. They keep pushing out their little grains of sand. Consider this alternative treatment. In my tool bag I kept a pack of post it notes and an old letter opener.I would walk through the office checking my monitors and speaking with people about their pest sitings In this example, we have a large office on a slab and pavements ants are the main pest. As I go, I place a post it on or near the "hot spots" of the pavement ant activity. I go back out,and get my Getts duster ( or have it with me in a ziplock freezer bag with me.) From my tool bag I pull out an old letter opener. I go to these "hot spots" and sit down right on the floor next to the "hot spot." I take my old letter opener and slip it under the "lip" in the cove base where it meets the floor.I pry up that lip and slip the stem of the duster in where I pried it up (kind of like a shoe horn.) I pivot the duster so the stem is parallel with the wall (as much as possible) and give the duster a gentle squeeze. If you watch you will see a small amount of dust puff at seams ext in the cove base about 6 or 8 feet to the right. You now have covered 6 or 8 feet to your right. Pivot the duster to the left and repeat. You have covered the cove base for about 16 feet. 16 feet will cover most any "hot spot." Mind you, I only do this at hot spots, not the entire building. Its a bit more work but in a few monthly visits, you will cover the mass of the issue. I assure you this is far more effective, especially if you return to those hot spots next month with a boric acid or DE kind of product. You can just do a couple of these old hot spots on each visit while knocking down new ones. I assure you...treating cove base in this manner is far more effective, lasts far longer and your customer isn't exposed to your insecticide like they would be if you were spraying the surface of the cove base. This seems like a lot of work but it WILL pay dividends in the long run in fewer call backs and reduced liability.

Howdy. I was told that you were due for some bombardment regarding audio - which I'll be happy to handle - but first let me answer the rest of your questions:

Video card: There are certain circumstances where a given brand or model presents a distinctly better option than its competition. For example, in SLI, you generally want a centrifugal ("blower") cooler on your GPU, as it will exhaust heat out of the case, rather than dumping it into the middle of the case and choking the upper card on it.

Another example would be if you were anticipating upgrading in a very short time (due to new cards being released, for example), a company like EVGA with their ["Step Up"] (http://www.evga.com/support/stepup/) program might be worth favouring over a brand which didn't offer that option.

Case: Yep, lotta folks like the H440 (though I'm a TJ11 man, myself). [HardOCP's measurements] (http://www.hardocp.com/article/2014/03/27/nzxt_h440_midtower_case_review/6#.VQAY1vnF8uQ) show that the stock fan arrangement should be perfectly sufficient for cooling the system Knocking's put together for you. You can add more if you want to, but it's not necessary.

The preferred tool for computer cleaning is compressed air, either with a [hand-held electric duster] (http://www.amazon.com/Metro-Vacuum-ED500-500-Watt-Electric/dp/B001J4ZOAW), or just in a seal can (the former option being more expensive up-front, but cheaper in the long run). It should get rid of any dust or other particles clogging up your system (so long as you clean the filters, too), and it avoids the issues of static-prone cloths and, well, all conductive liquids.

Audio: If there is a point of diminishing returns, I, personally, have not yet hit it. Or, at least, the returns have, in spite of diminishing, been sufficient to wow me with each successive upgrade (ATH-AD2000/K7XX currently, EL-8 on the way). You obviously won't get the same difference in quality between $200 and $500 that you do between phone earbuds and $200, but you will definitely see significant improvements (possibly even to the point of ruining old equipment for you) from it.

That said, it will not be like a live concert. Nothing is the same as live, not even the best speaker setups (though, in some ways, detail retrieval in particular, headphones could be argued to potentially outperform live...), and those still come much closer to the live experience than headphones. You will not have the visceral experience of the music in the same way because the majority of your body is literally not being exposed to the sound - the bass doesn't resonate in your chest, you don't feel the impact of each note because there's no physical impact of sound pressure on you outside of your ears, so on - and there's no way to fix that on headphones. Now, you can still get an absolutely amazing experience on headphones (and, price/performance, it's pretty much undeniably the king until you break at the $1,000 mark, and even there it's arguable), but if you want the physical feeling of music, you'd need to look at speakers (presuming your circumstance allows it).

We do not recommend soundcards, as a rule. Most of them have fairly lackluster audio specs, and they're often shown-up by cheaper external solutions, particularly in areas like output impedance and EMI.

So, onward, then to the audio questions (blatantly stolen from /r/headphones' [purchase advice template] (http://www.reddit.com/r/headphones/wiki/purchaseadvice#wiki_required_information):

1. Budget - We need to know how much you want to spend. If you can, please also indicate whether your budget is a hard limit, or whether it is flexible. In your case, specifically, you can go up to $800 without even breaking your initial budget, but if you want to limit it to a smaller number, that's entirely valid.
   
   
2. Source - What are you plugging these into?
   
   
3. Requirements for Isolation - Do you need a lot, some, or none? If you're not sure what isolation is, more isolation will block outside noises, none will not. It's also helpful if you say where you mainly will use your headphones, for instance: At home, outdoors, on public transportation
   
   
4. Preferred Type of Headphone - Do you want IEMs, full-sized, or on-ear?
   
   
5. Preferred tonal balance - Are you a basshead, particularly fond of a smooth midrange, strong highs, or do you want an overall balanced pair of headphones?
   
   
6. Past headphones - What have you used in the past, what did you like about them and what didn't you like about
   
   
7. Preferred Music - What do you listen to? If your music tastes are very esoteric, providing some examples (Youtube links work well) may be of some assistance to your helpers.
   

With the Coolermaster Elite 130 case you don't have to worry as much about graphics card size as it does have quite a bit of space that will fit a majority of graphics card sizes.

The only thing you really have to worry about with Mini-ITX cases is airflow and heat dissipation.

The main advantage of a Mini-ITX case is that is can literally fit anywhere you need it to be without much issue. It will also be very easy to move and take to a friends house if you want to show off how much better your PC is than his console.

If you really want to "show off" your PC to your friends / family, than a Mini-ITX computer is not going to be very impressive.

Honestly, the most upgrading that you are going to be doing in the next 4 years is most likely going to be a graphics card, and that would be as easy as taking out the old, and plugging in the new and then updating your graphics drivers for the new card.

Now if you really want to take pride in your computer every day, go with the latest build that I posted, as it has a case with a window, so you will be able to see all of your components and it will also allow you to see the dust accumulation without actually opening the enclosure and know when to clean the computer regularly.

I would suggest investing in a MetroVAC electric duster whenever you need to buy "compressed air" to clean your computer.

https://www.amazon.ca/METROPOLITAN-VACUUM-CLEANER-CO-ED500/dp/B001J4ZOAW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1465152702&sr=8-1&keywords=datavac

You would be surprised how expensive compressed air becomes when you need to clean your components and ensure that no dust sticks around for very long which could impede the cooling efficiency of the entire computer.

If you want you could just purchase all of the components now except for the graphics card. You will be able to do some light gaming with the i5-6500 onboard graphics and also save up some more money while you wait for the graphics card to come out.

You will want to invest in an aftermarket CPU cooler at some point like a Hyper 212 EVO. The stock CPU cooling fan that comes with Intel processors is quite lackluster, very loud and will be one of the first components to go bad in your build and need replacing.

Some things I do:

• Make sure your drivers are up to date, namely the chipset drivers and the graphics drivers.
  
  
• Once a month or so, take a can of compressed gas or something like this and blow the dust that accumulates out of the heat-sink ventilation area of the computer, and the keyboard area, that shit gets dirty. not only that, the accumulation of dust inhibits heat transfer from the CPU which will ultimately lead to an early death of the laptop if not taken care of.
  
  
• Install ccleaner: run the file cleaner and registry cleaner at least once a month.
  
  
• You already have MSE (Windows Defender in windows 8), but also use common sense and you shouldn't get any viruses. I'd also recommend running Malwarebytes every month or so. Also set up windows defender to run on a schedule.
  
  
• Go to your task manager and under the startup tab, deselect any programs you don't need starting up when windows start (pretty much all of them)
  
  
• Download and install Startisback, it will make the transition to windows 8 less of a pain. In fact it will pretty much make it so there is almost no transition.
  
  
• If you never use the hibernation feature on windows machines, then remove the feature (use the window 7 guide), which will free up between 2-16GB of hard drive space depending on how much RAM your computer has. reducing the size of the pagefile can free up some space as well. You can still use the sleep feature afterwards.
  
  
• From the start menu (or screen depending on your set up) type in 'msconfig' without the quotes and run that. In the boot tab, check the "No GUI boot". idk if it really makes it boot any faster but it removes the circling dots when windows 8 starts which makes me happy.
  
  
• Make sure to install your updates in a timely manner, for windows AND it's programs.
  
  
• I like WinDirstat to see how my hard drive space is being used
  
  
• I like Speccy to get a quick look at system information and certain temp of computer components
  
  
• I like Coretemp to have in my notification area which always tells me the temp of my CPU
  
  
• I would recommend uninstalling start screen apps (right click on them and select uninstall, you can do this with multiple at a time) to free up drive space and de-clutter the start screen, which i never really see anyways since I have startisback.
  
  
• Try to not pick the computer up by one handedly grabbing it near the webcam, this kills the webcam. Trust me.
  
  
• This is your computer, there are many like it but this one is yours. know it inside and out. If you're not comfortable with taking laptops apart, learn.
  
  I'll update if I think of anything else.

Get word of mouth from friends, or even get an IT-savvy friend to take a look first so you have a bit of knowledge going into it. As an IT technician myself I'd like to think most people wouldn't take advantage, but it pays to be cautious.

Also, the guys over at /r/techsupport might be able to help, even if it's just to diagnose the issue so you know what to ask for when you get it repaired. The easiest solution though would be to back up any data on it you want to keep and send it back for repair under warranty.

If it is just dust in the fan though, just get some compressed air This kind of thing, and clean it out yourself, save yourself a few quid! There are plenty of things you can do to make it easier for the tech who takes a look at it and cheaper for yourself (computers may seem scary and complicated but most problems can be sorted fairly easily). If you want any help feel free to PM me and I'll do my best to give you some advice! :)

Go in Amazon and search for a keyboard cleaner that is like a jelly ball... I'll try to find if and edit this post but it's an amazing cleaner

Edit:

HomeDoReMi Keyboard Cleaner (4PCS) - Remove Dust, Hair, Crumbs from Keyboard, Keypad, Air Vent - Rid Your Electronics of Germs - Best Keyboard Instrument Cleaning Care Product, Effective and Efficient
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ITEDDQW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_o9VXAbCDRC579

These things, $12 for 4 packs and you can just rub it on the entire board and it cleans every little gap perfectly. Lifts high majority of dust off of grip tape too!

You're right, they can be. What happens is the little particles of dust that get pulled in can create a static charge, if that's discharged it could in theory damage your components. In practice I wouldn't worry about it too much. If you're keen on getting a blower/vacuum look for an antistatic version like this one http://www.amazon.com/Metro-ED500-DataVac-500-Watt-Electric/dp/B001J4ZOAW

They are more expensive but offer some protection.

If you're going to be cleaning once a month you shouldn't be building up a ton of dust. A can of air duster should get you through a few months cleaning. That's what I use.

If you notice dust around the side panels or around the openings here or there take a look at your fan configuration. this is a result of negative pressure in your case, you're exhausting more air than you're pulling in. This can be eliminated pretty much entirely by maintaining positive air pressure, adding an additional intake fan will usually get you there. If you have a more limited case a fan controller can be used to slow down your exhaust fans or speed up your intakes until you get the desired effect.

Filter your intakes. Search for magnetic fan filters. With any luck you should be able to just slap them on the outside of the intake fans, and still be able to get the case panels back on. This cuts out a huge amount of dust and take a few seconds to clean.

If your case needs to be on or near the floor vacuum regularly. At least a couple times a week. Keeping the environment dust free is the best first step to keeping your pc clean.

If you take the time once a month to give your machine a quick dusting with a can of duster it's gonna stay very clean and it won't be more than a 10 minute job for the life of your pc.

Yesterday I took some time and blacked out the chrome on my headlights and installed Diode Dynamics Switchback C-Lights on my 2015 Premium. I think it turned out pretty well, as you can see from the before / after photos above.

It was pretty warm out and - while I left the headlights in the sun for a while before opening them - I didn't bake them and thought they came apart fairly (10 minutes / side) easily. Overall, the job took about 5 hours and I'd rate it a 6/10 for difficulty.

Total cost came out to be about $155, Rallysport Direct had a 10% sale so I got the boards and retro-rubber for $150, and got a $5 can of matte black Krylon paint + primer at Lowes. I also purchased some Frog Tape but didn't end up using it.

Some thoughts...

I'm not a huge fan of the turn signal connectors on the LED boards. I would have preferred the wires to be about 12" longer, and I ended up stripping a section of my (blue) turn signal wire, soldering, and then taping them (would prefer heat shrink tubing, but it worked) instead of using the vampire taps.

I also didn't use the (i think) T-10 connector. I couldn't find anywhere in the headlights that I liked to mount the drivers, and there wasn't a good place to run the wires out, so instead I removed the socket from the light, cut / stripped / soldered the white and black wires to the driver to the red and black C-light wires. Then, I used VHB tape to stick the driver boxes to the back of the headlights, and sealed the holes with some extra retro-rubber.

I should have bought the DRL harness, because even though I disconnected my DRL resistor I couldn't confidently find the place to connect it to the new C-boards for DRLs. I'm not sure if I got a different / newer model of C lights than most sites describe, because the red wire went from the driver board to the LED board. I may buy that and connect it in the future.

It was a bit tricky putting the C-light diffuser back in over the LED boards. The little clips wanted to scratch the newly painted surface, and the LED boards didn't fit as nicely as I thought they would. I eventually got them together, but I had to take them apart and touch up once.

Fingers crossed on fogging. If I do get fogging, I have a few silica gel packets that I'm going to stuff in there for a day or two to see if that knocks down the moisture.

The stock silicon sealant is pretty gross, but cleans up easier than I expected. Regular soap washes it off, but Goo-Gone might not be a bad idea.

Pulling the bumper was pretty easy. About a dozen clips / screws, and it popped right off without too much trouble. I put a mover's blanked down (which really wasn't necessary - you aren't going to mess anything up on the bottom of the bumper) and had enough play that I didn't bother disconnecting the fog lights and turn signals.

Either have a helper, or something reflective enough that you can see the lights sitting in the car. You'll want to test all the light settings, turn signals / hazards, and test with the handbrake on and off.

I did everything myself and didn't feel like a helper would have made things any easier.

Having a set of body panel tools and spudger kit is invaluable, both for this job and in general. Just spend the $20, it'll pay for itself.

I did scare myself taking apart the headlights - I hadn't removed the stock bulbs in my c-lights, and one of them broke on me. Fortunately it didn't damage anything. Make sure you remove those c-light bulbs first if you want to avoid a sphincter tightening surprise.

If I were to do it again, I would probably get some frosting paint and paint the c-light diffusers. It looks good, but I think I would prefer the full C-light diffuser to appear a bit whiter and even out the light from the LED boards. If I end up taking them apart again I will probably do this.

I didn't replace my halogen bulbs - the extra $100 or so it would cost to switch to LEDs wasn't in my budget. I'll probably do that not too far down the line, but for now it looks fine with the orange halogens. Since I disconnected the high beam DRL resistor, it'll only matter at night anyways. I thought about doing an HID retrofit, but again - budget.

I didn't replace the amber side-marker covers with tinted ones. They darken up a bit when you paint the chrome under them, but I wouldn't mind having them a shade or two darker.

It looks pretty good, a very worthwhile mod for one person to do in 5 hours for ~$150.

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You're best off with a wire key cap puller like this, but can get along with one of those plastic ring ones if that's all you have on hand. When pulling the caps you want to slowly rock the puller side to side while keeping constant upwards pressure applied. This is especially important with stabilized keys. The keys will come off eventually, you do not want to try to brute force them off pulling straight up. That is how you end up with broken stems, popped out stabilizers, etc., nothing you want to deal with when you're just trying to remove key caps.

There is no wrong place to start or order you need to remove your caps, but I like to start on the top row & work my way down. Also I will lay my caps out on a table or something in the same order I remove them, so putting them back is easy.

As far as cleaning goes, I use a Metro Datavac to blow my boards down & out every so often. It works very well to keep dust & debris from building up on/in a KB even without removing the caps. I'll also use a big makeup brush to clean in between the switches when I do have my caps off. If the caps & plate are a real mess, I'll soak the caps in warm water with denture cleaner & use Q-tips soaked in isopropyl alcohol to clean the plate in between the switches.

IME, blowing your boards off every couple days with something like the datavac or cans of compressed air will keep your boards pretty dust & debris free. Making the need for deep cleanings like you're about to do very few & far between.

This is much easier than you'd think.

My MacBook Pro sat in 1 inch deep water in my backpack (a waterproof backpack, so nothing escaped haha!), and it's still kicking two years later!

What I did first was similar to what you've done so far. I elevated it and propped it on its side. HOWEVER, despite what folks here are saying, that's not enough.

I quickly ordered this iFixit kit with one-day shipping. I then went down the street and purchase 20-lbs. of rice and submerged my MBP in them, open about 20 degrees, the same direction I'd had it propped up.

I don't know if the rice actually did anything, but I knew we would eat it, and it was only $1 per pound.

At the same time, I purchased 99% isopropyl alcohol. It's much cheaper from RiteAid, Walgreens, etc., than from Amazon, but expect to spend ~$9.

I also made sure I had cotton swabs available.

When my kit arrived, I just started dismantling the puppy and taking things apart, inspecting them one-by-one. I did use the iFixit repair guide (I think for the battery, since it goes the deepest). Keep the screws in groups and follow that guide.

Whenever you find moisture, soak it up with an anti-static cloth or a cotton swab.

Once you get to the actual boards, though, is where you'll start to see corrosion. Yes, already, you'll see corrosion. Bust open that 99% isopropyl alcohol, dip a cotton swab in there, and get rid of it. Soak up any excess alcohol.

I had water penetration halfway from one side of the screen to the other. All of my ports work perfectly fine, battery didn't suffer any damage, all keys are good, etc. The only lasting damage was to my right speaker, which plays at roughly 15% of the original volume, if I were to take a wild guess. I think those are only $30, so if I ever find myself without headphones, maybe I'll get the replacement.

Good luck!

It's like a big LEGO (sort of). everything fits where it's supposed to. If you have to force too much it's not going there (except USB xD). Many manufacturers provide instructions on how to plug in your new devices into the motherboard READ the INSTRUCTIONS carefully.

Also, remember to discharge static electricity from your hands by touching something metallic before manipulation electronic components. (You don't want to short-circuit your newly acquired RAM because you weren't careful enough).

Maintenance wise, compressed air dusters like those (https://www.amazon.com/Dust-Off-Compressed-Gas-Duster-Pack/dp/B00DZYEXPQ/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1487178003&sr=1-1&keywords=compressed+air+for+computers) just an example can help you reach hard places and NEVER EVER use a cloth to clean dust. It will create static electricity and short-circuit your components.

Remember to plugin the power cord after you've successfully connected every component to the motherboard. When changing something always power down you computer and remove every cable.

For any other questions feel free to search on google on website like wikihow, lifehacker and reddit :)

Cheers, hope it helps

Where I previously worked, all the techs were equipped with the following before going out in the field:

• Hammer
  
• Boxcutter
  
• Pliers (needlenose & slip joint)
  
• Wire cutter
  
• Scissors
  
• Precision Screwdriver kit (hex, flathead, philips and torx). I have this one which is great but the plastic case it comes in breaks easily
  
• A corded drill with drill bit & spade bit
  
• Punch down tool
  
• Crimper
  
• RJ45 connectors
  
• About 100ft loose Cat5 cable
  
• Tape measure (for measuring distance needed to make cable rather than eyeballing it; also for knowing how long the cable was if you're charging the customer $x/foot)
  
• Cable tester & toner
  
• Three pre-made ethernet cables (usually 7-10 feet)
  
• One crossover cable (we came to the conclusion that making one on the spot cost more time than it did to just spend a few bucks on a pre-made one)
  
• Ethernet couplers
  
• Wire ties
  
• Headlamp
  
• Power surge protector
  
• Extension cord
  
• USB B cable (B to A)
  
• Serial cable
  
• Parallel cable
  
• A wireless network card (usb)
  
• An ethernet adapter card
  
• A switch
  
• A wireless router
  
• A power supply
  
• CD case with blank CD-Rs and blank DVDRs, as well as copies of the various flavors of Windows XP SP3, Vista, 7. Also UBCD4Win, OPH Crack, Hirens Boot CD and whatever else has been picked up or used on the job.
  
• A 16GB USB drive with all the assortment of troubleshooting software, malware removal, portable programs, a few large packages such as all the service packs from XP SP1 to Win 7 SP1 and ISOs of commonly used programs such as Office 2007 (in the case that it needs to be re-installed).
  
• Most techs had their own additional USB drive that either was also a boot utility (Hirens) or was used as both a swap drive to transfer files when necessary and just as a copy of the provided USB drive.
  
• VGA/DVI adapter
  
• PS2/USB adapter
  
• Power/Molex adapters of many types, especially molex to SATA and fan header to molex
  
• A few other adapters which were rarely if ever used (mostly the serial and parallel ones)
  
• SATA/PATA to USB adapter kit for mounting hard drives externally
  
  
  
  
  We also experimented with carrying compressed air cans but that stuff gets used too much. Where I currently work, we use this electronics duster/blower and even though it is quite loud, it works really well.
  
  Most of it (except for the spart parts of switch, router, power supply, ethernet card and USB wireless card) fit into a tool bag. I don't think I forgot anything. If I remember, I'll add it to the list.
  

I bought one of these years ago for the same reason at work ... One of the best things I ever bought. Came with special filters for toner, powerful as can be so totally replaced canned air ... and very very well built. I recall it was a bit pricey, but it was completely, totally worth it.

Edit: Found the one I had -- Looks exactly the same. I miss this thing! What a great unit, and it looks like it's still American Made, too! Good for them.

Double edit: looks like they have two versions now ... this is the actual one we had -- Appears this one has the two speeds (as I recall) and a more powerful motor -- but is more than 2x the price.

The QBX manual leaves much to be desired.

The hardware (screws) provided seem like a grab bag and may not work too well.

A really great case for $50...but buy your own screws, thumb screws, etc. the bottom/floor screw holes for the 120mm fans just fall right out. These rubber fan mounts below work much better:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00H9905KA/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Again, the case is great. My problem with the ODD is that is seemed to fit snugly in the tray....but it could actually go further in, by about 1-inch. With the ODD in its tray further, the tray itself could be put back into the case and line up properly with existing screw holes.

Lots of cable management too. I would buy this case again, but wouldn't recommend for first time builders. Only fits 1 3.5" HDDdrive but 4 2.5" SSDs. It says the top of the case supports 2x120mm fans but given the power cable that connects to the power supply, YMMV. I put 1 120mm fan on the bottom and top. Rear and front both have 80mm fans.

I strongly recommend and SFX PSU like the SF600 and an ATX-to-SFX bracket. The extra space saved makes for a cleaner case.

Will post pics when my phanteks PWM hub comes in. I want to give fix up some cables.

Any questions, please ask.

I use one of these.

Cans of compressed air can sometimes throw out the accelerant used to compress the air. This isn't great for internal components. Also, this never depletes. Take the computer to an open area that airs outdoor (garage, shed, etc.) Take off the case door and if your case has any filters take them out, too. Blow out the filters first. When you get near the fans, hold them so they don't spin freely. You should see the dust bunnies start to fly. Blow from front to back as dust will build up in the direction of your case's natural air flow. Use the attachments for narrow areas or for detailing.

Tips:

• Removing the GPU can make things a little easier but not necessary.
  
• Avoid blowing directly in the CPU fan. Instead try to blow from the side. If you have a ton of dust in your CPU fan, remove it and clean it manually with a toothbrush.
  
• You'll then have to then clean the thermal compound of the CPU itself and the bottom of the CPU, re-compound, and re-seat the fan.
  
• If you must blow out the CPU fan, do it in short bursts and make sure the fan only spins in it's regular direction.

I've been thoroughly impressed by the Corsair fans I purchased (2x 2pack of 120mm ML), and therefore I don't hesitate to recommend Corsair for CPU cooling as well. I'd suggest this one: https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Hydro-Performance-Liquid-Cooler/dp/B00FZHWFEW/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1505845460&sr=1-3&keywords=corsair%2Bcpu%2Bcooler&th=1

Comes w/ dual fans out of the box so you don't have to use miss matched fans for the sandwich, but the sandwich does make a difference. You'll be cool as ice w/ this, but you'll also likely need to remove the bracket that holds the fan in currently depending on how it's set up now. Also, it can be a little difficult screwing through the mesh cage @ the top of the unit, and I've found that the rubber attachments: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00H9905KA/ref=psdc_3012917011_t1_B01M4LVBY2

...work very nice. I don't believe they come w/ the Corsair cooler, however there should be some in your stock PC case fan you could use as you won't be using the top fan anymore if you purchase this cooler.


Whatever you end up getting just keep in mind that fan size is 120mm.

Personally I have a liquid cooler on my GPU, and was able to somehow get it up to the top. Just saying I have some experience on the matter w/ the same unit.

I also swear by the Data Vac. It's actually a blower but you'll never have to buy canned "air" again. It's awesome. To clean, your console, just place a clean dry straw down the vent to keep the fan from spinning then dust away until your hearts content.

Here's a refined link.


To post links just do [type your words here](Paste your link here)

It should come with everything you need. The screws are included with the case. You can buy kits on amazon though that have a bunch of extra.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01I4SOVDG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Bought one of those recently, worked pretty well, but you should get everything you need.

On your build it looks pretty good, might consider getting the i5-7500 instead, it is a tad bit faster and $15 more.

Also if you aren't purchasing this thing literally right away you might be best waiting for Ryzen in 2 weeks. They will be selling i7 class processors at i5 prices if all the leaks are true. Intel will likely need to adjust and even if you go with that build it will be cheaper in 2-3 weeks. Up to you. I wouldn't expect any major changes in speed from AMD, but most likely a big shake up in cost that will beneficial.

Yep, a typical compressor condenses moisture and there is a risk of blowing out moisture.

They do sell "dry air" blowers, but they are expensive. They are 100% dry though and an option if you can afford one. The broadcast industry uses them frequently for their transmission antenna cleaning.

The other option is a fan blower, which is much more powerful and efficient than canned air. I have several of these:

http://www.amazon.com/Metro-Vacuum-ED500-500-Watt-Electric/dp/B001J4ZOAW

They are pretty awesome.

As in cleaning your storage or stuff like keyboard, mouse, etc.?

For storage, CCleaner. Run it for a few minutes and it will find all the stuff that you don't need. Just try not to mess with the registry stuff, unless you know what you're doing. And uninstall all the programs/games you don't need.


For keyboard, I recommend pulling out your buttons, put them in water with soap, let it be for about 10 minutes, then clean the remaining stuff and dry them with a towel. The rest of the keyboard clean with a wet cloth. I also recommend Cyber Clean. It picks up all those things that you can't get with a cloth.

For mouse, a wet cloth will do just fine.

For your monitor, buy one of those screen cleaning sprays. Every once in a while, clean the cloth you got with the bottle.

The last thing is the case. Since it's quite new, I don't think it needs a lot of cleaning, but it's worth to look for dust. Pull the cable out of the electric socket, open the case and dust it off with those qtips (the things you clean your ears with) or try to buy a small vacuum cleaner from amazon. Remember, don't let the fans spin, because you can cause a short-circuit.

If there's a lot of dust, you'll just have to get all the parts out and clean it that way. And don't forget the dust filters, if you case has any.

When you get the heat sink off the processor, clean them and put on a new thermal paste. Look for some tutorials on youtube, because I've never tried this. I've also got my PC a few months ago.

And the power supply. Don't open it, unless you know what you're doing. Opening it also voids your warranty.

Apologies for the "hind sight is 20/20" style of answer but compressed air into the exhausts are all you should ever need on a laptop for dust. I see maybe 2-3 laptops a month with overheating issues due to dust accumulation and a blast from the duster linked below will clear the issue every time, no need to disassemble.

My best advice moving forward would be to try and find a teardown video or any youtube videos of people disassembling your same model and see if you can spot anything you may not have put back. Despite best intentions and being very careful it's very easy to miss one thing when reassembling a laptop. It's also easy to forget which screws go where and a long screw where a short screw should be could cause major issues depending on placement.

Did you make sure to disconnect the battery before doing anything else "under the hood"? My first guess would be something not connected, second guess would be a possible short on the board. You can also try with no ram and see if you get any beep codes. Best of luck. Hope it's something simple.

I also don't know your level of comfort/care with taking apart reassembling laptops so please don't take offense if any of my advice seems basic.

https://www.amazon.com/Metro-ED500-DataVac-500-Watt-Electric/dp/B001J4ZOAW

Something like this: http://smile.amazon.com/Metro-Vacuum-ED500-500-Watt-Electric/dp/B001J4ZOAW?sa-no-redirect=1

I am more interested in using it for cleaning my computer, but if it is "safe" to use on some of my knick-knacks, I am all for it! Plus it will save me money long run.

Edit: I found an ESD safe one that is probably even better for my precious: http://www.poscleaning.com/BRAND-NEW-ED-500-ESD-DataVac-ESD-Safe-120VAC-Electric-Duster-ED-500-ESD.htm

Yes, they are very excellent at cleaning dust. However, if you mean the physical insides of your computer, well they aren't very much suited at that, purely because of all the little bits of metal and everything that are on the video card, motherboard, etc. The inside of a computer is still best cleaned with compressed air. I personally plan on buying one of these. Very expensive, but you never have to buy canned air again! :) But yes, on the outside of your case, your desk itself, your monitor screen even, these things (microfibers) are great.

I have done about four of these with no ill side effects to my gear. But there is a lot of preparation involved.

1. Get a camera rain coat. these work well for me. http://www.amazon.com/OP-TECH-USA-Rainsleeve-18-Inch/dp/B000PTFDYO/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1416522314&sr=8-7&keywords=camera+cover I usually use the lens hood and rubber bands going from the lens into the camera to ensure snugness.
   
   
2. Plan on using one lens and use a UV filter. If you MUST switch lenses, make sure you have canned air or a blower and not to use it on the lens itself but rather to blow off all of the debris that you can. And of course, step off to the side.
   
   
3. Use a camera bag that has a rain cover. Easier to clean.
   
   
4. Expect some cleaning time for your camera. I use a DataVac (http://www.amazon.com/Metro-Vacuum-ED500-500-Watt-Electric/dp/B001J4ZOAW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1416522510&sr=8-1&keywords=electronic+duster) to blow everything off and follow up with using a damp cloth to clean the outside of the camera.
   
   Its do-able and I always think its a lot of fun, but you have to be prepared. I used my D600 for the shoots and even switched lenses without negative outcomes.

Not sure about cheap knockoff, but https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01IBHE0MC/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1 goes on sale for like 8 bucks from time to time, and I have it and it's fantastic. There's also another one that's identical from like Oria or premium or something, not sure on those but it looks like the same kit.

Anyway, great for the price.

Congrats on the new computers. You might want to air blower to clean your and your brother's computers every so often, especially since you have a pet. Having dust and pet fur in a computers can slow it down. I would recommend this. Other computer enthusiasts might know of better computer cleaners.

Thanks for all the great art!

Probably repeated by many others, never cheap out on a power supply as that sounds to be the source of the problem. The PS is like the beating heart of your computer pumping a constant flow of electricity to all the other components. If the heart goes out, so does everything else.

As for cases I highly reccomend any of Fractal Design's Define series. Great dust filters that are easy to clean!

Additionally for dust, use canned air regularly, at least monthly, or get yourself one of these. I use mine regularly and it has saved money on canned air in just 6 months! I even use it to dust other things out like tower fans, behind the bed and toher areas hard to reach with a vacuum

>If I place the dust everywhere, should I try to refrain from vacuuming? Or just reapply after vacuuming?

I'd vacuum, then apply, then re-apply after any future vacuuming.

>Can you possibly link me to the pump/sprayer?

Here's 2 options, we used this one ourselves, but this one seems to be promoted by Amazon right now. Looking at that yellow one... eh, I'd personally recommend going with the first one. THe extra $6 is worth it for higher quality.

>How much is needed for a ~800 sq. Ft. Apartment?

Per their Amazon link, 2 ounces covers 100 ft^2, large bottles are 4 ounce, so you'd want 4 large bottles

Oh, and as a safety given the high chance other apartments are infested, you probably want this XFasten double sided tape, you will want to make squares around every power/cable/telephone/airvent/etc. outlet, and a large square above your bed, slightly larger than your bed. Yes, they are known to crawl along the ceiling then drop down onto beds.

Buy the Metro Vac if you plan on having your PC for a few years and building more in the future. It will save you over the long run from buying compressed air and you don't have to worry about the liquid coming out from the can. Just make sure you hold your fans in place while cleaning (even when using compressed air as well). You don't have to worry about the static from a regular vacuum as well.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001J4ZOAW/ref=pd_lpo_k2_dp_sr_1/191-3113634-4563214?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_r=1Z6SX38GBHP14Y4KQQVP&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_p=1535523722&pf_rd_i=B000RMPXXK

I clean two PCs out about every 6 months, if you can take them outside its even easier. I saw someone else post this a while back and it has definitely been worth the money. I hated buying the cans of compressed air so I used to just put off cleaning it, but now with this thing I've been cleaning them out pretty regularly.

You can also get some dust filters for your intake fans as well, I have some cheap ones from Silverstone and they work pretty well. I believe you can also make your own filter just by using some pantyhose.

1. 10ml LOCA UV GLUE - Xfactor PREMIUM GRADE LOCA (Liquid Optical Clear Adhesive) - LOW Viscosity !! https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IOPYLJE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_nPJvJZ9t8L2NR
   Or
   Octopus Glue® - Liquid Optically Clear Adhesive (Loca) 10 ml Graduated Syringe - The Original Premium Loca UV Glue for Phone Glass, Digitizer, LCD Repair https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014RN9UGK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_ZVuVzb6HRR5CB
   
   
2. Galaxy Note 8 screen protector, OMYFILM Samsung Galaxy Note 8 Tempered Glass Screen Protector [Case Friendly] [3D Curved] HD Clear Screen Protector fo https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074Z5BLW3/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_BGFDOChR3QII4
   
   3)NuLink Light Lamp 36 Watt UV Ultraviolet Dryer with 120 Second Timer & Slide Out Tray for Galaxy iPhone Refurbished LCD Front Glass LOCA Glue - White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MJI8OCW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_I9QnHIUoyMIzz
   
   I also used a template that was bundled with the Beetle Supcase Tempered glass to make it easy.
   
   When applying the LOCA put in the center of the phone a capatlized "i". Octopus LOCA includes a mL measurement and you should put near 5mL. It will get messy. That's the advantage of the WhiteStone Dome as they give you a lower viscosity with the right measurement needed.
   
   Make sure you put tape in all coverings. People will say painters tape, but I use Shipping tape with good adhesive. My first try, painters tape lifted and I got glue over my speaker. If this happens, make sure you put the phone in the UV light. It's easier to remove dried than piece by piece. But if you put good adhesive tape this will not happen.
   
   
   

Personally, I've pretty much stopped using canned air for dusting unless I have to, as I was sick and tired of sneezing and dusting all of MY equipment after I finished with customer equipment (also, it's pretty gross when you think of what that stuff is). Personally, I think water is a bad choice. A single drop gets where it doesn't belong and you potentially release the magic smoke.
My professional opinion is vacuums/cleaner wipes are the way to go.

For the vacuum, you don't want to use your home vacuum, as the air going through the tubes generates static electricity, and static+computers=bad. Metro Vacuums has a line called DataVac that are ESD safe. I own the middle option both at work and at home.

Low volume - http://amzn.com/B001J4ZOAW
Medium volume - http://amzn.com/B00MU2DE36
High volume (This one can use HEPA filters that can block toner particles, a must if you plan on cleaning laser printers/copers. The other units can't filter the tiny particles, and the supposedly make their way into the motor and chew stuff up, and aren't good to breathe either) - http://amzn.com/B000RMQJBK

I also use generic electronics cleaner wipes (like these: http://amzn.com/B004GCUJWM) to get all the smudgy stuff off of laptops. For the really grody ones, clorox wipes. I just don't hit the screen, and I usually follow up with an electronics wipe, as the clorox wipes leave streaks.

edit: I know the vacs aren't cheap, but canned air is freaking expensive too. At $3 a can, the ROI is pretty short on these vacs if you do much work on computers. I always clean any computer/server that comes across my workbench, as it just makes working on them easier, and improves customer satisfaction. I think of it like taking your car into the dealership for an oil change and finding out they washed and vacuumed it. It's just pleasant, and it takes less than 5 minutes.

Yeah more than likely you've just got a load of crap in there. Make sure you clean the filters out as when they build up the airflow can be pretty severely affected and it gets pretty hot. Your best bet is to get some air spray (NOT HAIR SPRAY) and take the case off and give the fans a good blow out. This stuff works well:

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Star-Duster-Compressed-Flammable-400ml/dp/B000MQ7DZC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1407157540&sr=8-1&keywords=air+spray

OH! Also, if you have your face in there at the time, close your eyes and mouth when you blow with the compressed air.

Hope this helps!

Seth

Depends on the noise but that is a very common symptom of dust/hair/grime build up in any device with a fan. I'd suggest grabbing a can of compressed air and blowing it out or if you have use for it buying something like this http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001J4ZOAW/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I do a bunch of computer tech stuff on the side and repair coffee equipment for a living.

In most environments, pretty much all fans should be blown out every 3-6 months, depending on how dusty things get. This includes all your computer, your microwave fan, window fans, the fan in your bathroom, etc. If that doesn't help, on occasion I've found that hair has tangled up around the fan shaft and is causing an issue. This tends to happen more often with people who have cats or dogs.

Biggest solution is to eliminate their food supply. diatomaceous earth anywhere you see a potential entry point. Get a few tubes of paintable caulking and some steel wool. Shove the steel wool into any crevices then caulk over it, cracks and gaps in the eaves, gaps around windows, etc. You can get little duster cans like https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004FBKLZE/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_9eroDbMYCZ6RQ

You don't need a pile of diatomaceous earth, just a light dusting will do. Getting it in the back of cabinets, behind furniture, under baseboards, etc will do tons towards prevention

To treat for scorpions (as well as many other insects) you want "Demand CS" (or one of the generics) this is what most pest control companies will actually use in Tucson. I recommend a pump sprayer and at minimum a dust mask while spraying it. Read the instructions carefully, and be smart while applying it. Spray 4-6 times a year, full perimeter and around all openings, and you should be pretty good




Check out https://www.doyourownpestcontrol.com/scorpions.htm

I know it's very much because of the flash, but I noticed that; despite you're Phanteks case with very solid dust filters. That there is a solid amount of dust on many of your components.

Consider getting some canned air, lint free cloths (also good for cleaning more than just PC electronics) & an electronic brush. To get rid of pretty much all dust.

---

PC Dust Elimination - The Rugged, Manly Way

There's a more expensive one for 90 dollars from DataVac that is electrostatic discharge free, and I use that one. It's significantly more powerful than a can of compressed air, and it will save you money in the long run. Plus, you don't have to worry about getting that chemical in the air cans all over your components, you're just using air.

Edit: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00U01YVYK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I recently bought this and it works great! Incredibly powerful. A little pricey, but with how quickly I go through the compressed air cans at about 6 bucks each, it seemed smarter for the long run. It also comes with a micro-cleaning kit, which is really nice

I mean, they can compress air into a can, but unless you can use a material that becomes a liquid at high pressure, the capacity is going to be REALLY low. You can definitely use aerosol based cleaners on the inside of your machine. You do need to be careful as the expansion of the gas inside the can will lead to some pretty cold temps coming out of the can which will cool off your parts considerably - VERY important to remember in the event you are cleaning it on a hot, humid day. I learned that one the hard way.

If you have a decent enough budget, you can get an electronics blower and go with a more environmentally friendly (and reusable) option. Amazon has a ton of options, but I've had my eye on this kit

The Metro Vacuum ED500 DataVac 500-Watt 0.75-HP Electric Duster 120 volt! (affiliate link)


It's like a vacuum cleaner in reverse. It blows way better than canned air and it doesn't run out so it'll pay for itself in ~10 cans worth of air. I use it to blow years of dust out of old electronics. I have been fixing computer and electronics for years and I just got this thing this year and I wish I had a long time ago.


It will actually clean things better than a vacuum with a dust brush would. But, you really need to use it outside or in a shop because it does blow dust everywhere. Personally I think it's worth the little bit of inconvenience to get my stuff as clean as possible.

tldr; this thing really blows for cleaning stuff

Non-affiliate link

This kit is the one I use, the metal tool all the way to they left has been perfect for prying prints off of any surface.

Ever since i switched to glass, all I have to do his hit the print with a hammer and it pops right off. By the way I'm using a watch makers hammer, not a 5lb maul. Also the 5x7 glass will cover your leveling screws, you can get a cheap set of glass cutters from lowes for $4. I used them to change the ends of the glass to leave the leaving screws exposed. Its not necessary but makes life easier. I've also found these clips to be a perfect fit for picture frame glass. Hope this helps you in some way.

[Make up Brushes] Because if you're anything like me, you'll just put them on there and never buy them, but they are actually a REALLY god acquisition. and since that isn't your limit, you should also buy Compressed Air because again, they're things we take for granted and actually need!

For me, Tie Die Kit! for this summer, VERY fun!

woop-di-woop

thanks for gifting!

I totally get opening the case.

> Could it be that the PSU fan is faulty?

Maybe, but it really sounds like overheating or power starvation.

> Also, I could try to clean the inside of the case with compressed air, if I have some left.

A good cleaning with compressed air is always a good idea. I usually do that once a month. I have Blower that I use instead of compressed air in a can that I would recommend. And it never runs out. ;)

Make sure to keep the fans from moving when you blow it out as it could cause damage.

Once you get it cleaned out I would suggest that it not be sitting on carpet or anything that could block any air intake from the bottom since some PSUs pull fresh air through the bottom of some cases.

Off topic but instead of compressed air might I recommend this:

http://www.amazon.com/Metro-Vacuum-ED500-500-Watt-Electric/dp/B001J4ZOAW/

$60, it's more powerful than canned air, never runs out, and it's built like a tank. I use the little brush attachment to clean out my keyboards.

If you use it at all frequently, buy an electric one. I have this from Amazon, I've seen it as cheap as $40.

It's 100x stronger than compressed air, and since it's effectively free to use, you can use it all around the house to help dust or otherwise clean things. 100/10 would recommend.

Thanks! Glad you liked it. Yes I use the X power Air Blower and it is great! I dry my entire car with it. The car is ceramic coated so the water beads and falls off so easily.

Yes search for the data vac or the xpower airduster on amazon. They have the same power as a can and you just plug them in costs about $50. Perfectly fine to use on your pc as well just turn it off and unplug first.Edit: https://www.amazon.com/XPOWER-Airrow-Multi-Use-Electric-Computer/dp/B01BI4UQK0/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=xpower&qid=1554079811&s=gateway&sr=8-3 here's a direct link, i have this and it works pretty well.

Assuming you are still using the stock fans, I recommend replacing the front and rear fans with these. Also, on top of attempting to improve cable management, I also recommend using this to clean your computer (among other things) with great efficiency.

Dislaimer: I have no association with the above companies whatsoever.

I have one of these, more expensive up front but soooo worth it. So much better than compressed air that gets all cold and loses power. Saves me some cash too.

I'm doing the same exact thing. I'm everyone's tech and I've given some of my friends guitars that I build for them to see what I should change for the next run. It's the best way to get practice IMO.

Yeah, throwing water over them won't do them any good, but the only realistic thing to watch for is dust; every so often (once every 2-3 months or something) just unplug it, open it up then give the graphics card and CPU fan a quick spray with one of these to keep things clear. How often depends on if the room is dusty or carpeted to begin with. Clearing it out just keeps the air moving easier so your fans can do their job.

Your case already comes with one fan which I'm going to guess will be at the back, but that extra one on the list could either go on the side or the front. But as you're not overclocking or living anywhere particularly hot (the UK isn't exactly known for heat) it won't overheat.

I picked up one of these once I finished my last can of air. Sure it's a little pricy, but I'll never have to pick up another can again!

The thing is just as powerful, if not more powerful than a can of air and you can use it for much longer (granted it does get a bit warm).

I actually look forward to cleaning my computer as well as friends just to put that thing to work, haha

http://www.amazon.com/Cyber-Clean-25054-Home-Office/dp/B002C03AIA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1396666679&sr

Used some stuff like this on some older phones for random junk and lint - it worked. Luckily I haven't had to use it for my M8 yet.
Best of luck.

This may not fit your budget, but it is definitely worth the investment. I've never had to spend another dime on compressed air and it is much, much more powerful and effective.

Fans, filters, heatsinks tend to get really dusty overtime. Clean them out. But never ever use a vacuum cleaner to clean it. Use this or if your really want to invest on a cleaner, this one

Both. But what's the poin of buying an unlocked processor if you're not going to overclock it? ;)

Yes, that's a better one

Hi, I'm really sorry for my awkward list and the fact that I live in the U.K. but I am new here, and this is one of the first contests I have entered. I have tried to keep costs low as I am unsure of how shipping will work, so there is about $17 worth. I hope this will be the first of my many wonderful RAoA experiences, and once again apologize!

[Item 1]

[Item 2]

[Item 3]

[Item 4]

And Gifting is fun!

I have had good luck using Tech Armor Ballistic Glass (or any other for that matter).

Take off the included edge adhesive/clean with alcohol

And used this LOCA glue

There are many LOCA glue youtubes that show easy ways to apply.


In my opinion it's as good as a White Dome for much less cost. I have no sensitivity issues or complaints.


Not trying to spam this, just spreading the good word of my pleasant experience.

This is one area will each person's will be different depending upon environment and level of cleanliness one wants to maintain. Personally I clean at least once a month as my case has no dust filters. I use a small air compressor or canned air. For using an air compressor always make sure to drain it so the air inside the tank does not create water tank. If you want to clean often I recommend an air duster. Will save a lot of money and are very useful. Check out this popular one on Amazon: http://www.amazon.com/Metro-Vacuum-ED500-500-Watt-Electric/dp/B001J4ZOAW

Got me one of these in 2010. Still running strong.

DataVac Computer Duster & Cleaner Super Powerful Electronic Dust Blower Environmentally Friendly https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FWSYOME/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_Q7arzb2KMS43C

Oh, and this is by no means necessary because most cases and parts come with plenty of extra scews and stuff, but you can get a set of standard PC screws of different sizes for like ten bucks. Something like this. If you only build the PC and don't upgrade often or like to obsessively mess around with stuff like me, probably unnecessary, but it's come in useful occasionally.

You'll probably also want a small tube of high quality thermal past like Arctic Silver MX-4 or IC diamond. It will usually lower your CPU temperature a few degrees over what most coolers come with.

Correct me if I'm wrong, but don't some compressed air generators (like you might have in your garage) create an oil dispersion in the air stream? In my mind this would have greater potential to alter the taste vs the chemicals in canned air (which I would think would disperse quickly). Is there any evidence that the chemicals bond with the metal surfaces of the grinder and mix with the coffee, or is that anecdotal? That said, I have been using canned air to clean my Lido, but I think I'll switch to a manual or electric blower just for peace of mind!

If you really want something great to use, I recommend using an electric duster.

Metro DataVac ED500
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001J4ZOAW

Ever since I purchased one of these, I haven't had to buy another can of air or anything for blowing out my systems.

Some other benefits include:
• Not worrying about how much air is left.
• Making trips to go buy more canned air.
• Freezing canisters and cold hands.
• Storing and disposing of multiple cans.
• No potentially harmful chemicals floating around in the area where you use canned air (funny, horrible story around this, for me).
• No aerosol/greenhouse gases. It's safer for the environment.

One of the best investments I've made for my computers. I've used a few like these professionally as well as at-home and stand by this specific model (ED500) adamantly.

Do these really cause static electricity buildup/discharge? Was thinking about getting a datavac on amazon to clean out the pc's in my house...

Edit: Thanks to /u/blowjustinup, I have found the "ESD Safe" model of the datavac $30 price premium over the original non-esd safe model tho. /u/1337syntaX

One of these they're pricy but worth it in the long run.

=

Usually when people mention air compressors some people think of these but get the air compressor, you just plug it in and boost it up and its safe for your pc. (how ever I'd recommend doing it outside though) it can get dust everywhere if you do it inside.

An air compressor works great for cleaning the dust out. Check out the little electric blowers if you don't have a full-on compressor. I've been using one for over 5 years now and it works great.

For cleaning the exterior, Novus makes great plastic cleaning products.

>grease my fans

lol that made my morning. Thank you.

DUSTING DUSTING DUSTING: Just get some air cans or an electric duster (Cheaper over the long run.) and dust your computer monthly.

Do NOT let the fans spin freely when you do your dusting. Rotate them manually every few blows and hold them down whilst cleaning.

Thermal Paste: Replacing the thermal paste isn't much of a priority, it works best after it settles in. Replace like once a year if you really need to (If you see a rise in CPU temps)
_
Liquid Cooling: If you have liquid cooling then clean out the pipes and blocks when it starts to get dirty (Every 6 months - 1year?)
_

That's about all the maintenance I can think of, can anyone else think of anything?

I recommend this other duster over the datavac: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00V8S9XU6?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_image

I just built a new PC and got this because it'll pay for itself in 2 or 3 packages of compressed air. I got it two days ago and used it tk clean everything electronic in my apartment. It's very powerful. I had the datavac a few years ago and feel this is a bit stronger, but it's almost half the price. It's built pretty solid and has plenty of attachments.

Can you guys recommend me a cheap screwdriver kit for fixing electronics? There's one from fixit but it's like $55

iFixit Pro Tech Toolkit - Electronics, Smartphone, Computer & Tablet Repair Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GF0KV6G/


I want something like this but... Less and cheaper. Does it exist?

My immediate need is to shuck an easy store but I need one of these in general

DataVac Computer Duster & Cleaner Super Powerful Electronic Dust Blower Environmentally Friendly https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FWSYOME/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_iLzNAbJE9EW3R

This works really well for most dust issues. Nothing beats removing keys and deep cleaning though.

>at least getting some compressed gas dusters and blowing out the enclosure.

FTFY


Please don't use the "canned air" name or suggestion, as it implies incorrectly that these gas dusters have "air" in them. They don't, and for the most part, are not that great anyways.


Remember kids, "canned air" is not air, and in fact, are not even close to air. Older ones are propane and butane(have some still, last forever, not good in enclosed spaces or around sparks or flames of any kind, anywhere near), newer ones are usually fluorocarbons instead, but they will still burn.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gas_duster

This is something I suggest to all when I see it. If you want something that you can use safely in any environment, I suggest you get one of these blowers. While it seems pricey at first, consider that a pack of new Gas dusters, with fluorocarbons, which last much less than hydrocarbons did, will run you about $25, and will only last a few time uses each can, and can only be used in short busts because of the nature of the way they pack all that in there(might cause frostbite too if used too long), blowers like this one will cost you one time, and work hundreds of times, with no use on the time limit you have with them, and best of all, they won't cause frostbite.

An electric duster was one of my best purchases ever.

www.amazon.com/Metro-Vacuum-ED500-500-Watt-Electric/dp/B001J4ZOAW

(There is an ESD safe model (black) for a bit more, but there doesn't seem to be any available on amazon currently. Which is the model I personally bought.)

edit
I see I'm not the first to recommend a DataVac. Oh well, it's still worth mentioning.

Good choice on the Meshify C, nothing wrong with prioritizing airflow. It still has the sound dampening foam on the rear panel and the metal drive cages with rubber mounts, so that is a fine compromise imo. You can use rubber mounts like these instead of screws for your case fans to isolate their vibration. Best of luck with the build!

I have used the following device for over 3 years now on my server closets, PC's, miners, and other electronics. Very satisfied works wonders it's super powerful , make sure to hold further away from gpu while using the lower setting. Hope this helps


XPOWER A-2 Airrow Pro Multi-Use Electric Computer Duster Dryer Air Pump Blower - Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BI4UQK0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_K2.aBbKY95ZWC

http://www.amazon.com/Metro-Vacuum-ED500-500-Watt-Electric/dp/B001J4ZOAW

This thing is absolutely amazing. I haven't bought a compressed air can for years. Some of the benefits include:

• Not having to constantly buy compressed air cans.
  
• It keeps going till you're done, not till the can runs out.
  
• It can work upside down and on any angle, making it far easier to reach the harder spots.
  
• It doesn't get cold in your hand.
  
• It's a very simple design and should last for many years.
  
  I would buy another in a second if mine ever breaks down.

May I recommend this beast of an air blower? It's 3/4ths as powerful as a horse. And like a horse it should only be used outside. My dad's favorite gift I've probably ever given him.

Just an FYI: I got one of these DataVacs while yes its a lot (I got it for Christmas so that's a plus) But with removable filters I just take them out every few weeks and give them a blast before I do my usual vacuuming of my room and it saves a ton of time, and makes doing a full cleaning so much easier. I blast my desk every once in a while, and it is great for keyboards as well. In reality if you buy canned air, this thing will pay off in a year anyways. It has tons of uses for general cleaning, plus inflates air mattresses in like half the time of a regular pump.

If cleaning PCs for dust and hair is something you do regularly, I highly recommend investing in one of these. Way more powerful than canned air and never runs out (I was able to use mine to clear my deck of leaves). I have one at the office and one at home. They're great. Cheaper in the long term too.

Was going to buy that but this is cheaper. https://www.amazon.com/XPOWER-2-Green-FBA-Multi-Use-Electric-Computer/dp/B00V8S9XU6

I love this thing. I bought it for my birthday which happens to be today. ( Black version) Even on low setting this thing is incredibly powerful. Blowing off my fans I just used a screwdriver to hold them still. Has a semi ok filter at the bottom. After 1 use that filter got gunked up.

omfg how can someone with a great case like that do this to his PC? I blow dust my PC every week or two. Open that bad boy and clean all that dust because I can clearly see through window that it definitely piles up.

This duster may seem expensive at first but this buy is one of the best purchases I've ever made. It's strong as fuck and you can use it for your car too.

I get paid on the 28th as well! I just started so it's my first paycheck and it's going to be awesome :)

This is my item. Thanks for the contest <3

This was from ~5 months ago. This was from about ~6-7 months ago.

 

When you clean a lot, the cleaning becomes easier. I wrote a whole thing about it here. But to add to this, every month or two, I use the brush attachment I was talking about. I take all my components (except my CPU and case fans) out and I use the brush+air to get inside the PCI slots and ram slots and around all the heat sinks. Like I said, cleaning more often makes the cleaning process in general easier.

 

This isn't the one I bought, but it has really good reviews on Amazon, and I have seen a couple guys over at PCMR recommending it.

Really nice job, OP! But you should definitely dust everything! Especially the fans 'cause it will definitely bring down temps.

BTW incase you don't know how to properly dust, you need to buy some compressed air.

Link

And spray everything! :D Hope I helped.

Yes you are, you're better off buying something like this. I own it and it works great.

http://www.amazon.com/ED500-DataVac-500-Watt-Electric-120-Volt/dp/B001J4ZOAW

My PSU overheated a couple months ago (luckily it had overheating protection and just shut off and wouldn't turn back on for a bit instead of dying on me) so I decided to do a thorough cleaning (I usually do a quick cleaning every couple months).

I opened up my case and sprayed it all out with canned air. I thought it was pretty clean, it ran a little cooler. For fun, I bought this PC mini-vac and went crazy with it. I was blown away (ha, puns) by the amount of dust that the vac managed to get out that the canned air did not.

PC runs much better now, and GPU temps dropped by about 20C. It's like new again!

I recommend datavac. It's amazingly powerful and comes with a straw attachment that can get the fans and fins real easy. No joke, this moves a lot of air. It is almost as loud as a regular vac though. Still recommend it.

Also, despite the name it is not a vacuum, it just blows...heh that's what she said.

I did this. If I can justify it, I can get it.

I've gotten:

• Metro Datavac Pro -- Love this, actually saves money of cost of canned air. Sucks and blows--simultaneously. That's what she said.
  
  
• Quad monitor setup. It was ~ $100 for the monitor stand (now much cheaper), I had the monitors already, and $230 for a FirePro 2450. Best investment ever. There's so much room for activities!
  
  
• Velcro roll. Just do it, you'll thank me later.
  
  
• Cleaning supplies: Wypall X80 Towels, Goo Gone, and Techspray. Those towels are heavy duty and last forever, you'll probably never need more than a box in 2-3 years. I clean every computer that comes through my office.
  
  
• I inherited here two label makers: 3M PL200 and Brother PT-1290. I prefer the 3M... it has SOOOO many modes and features. They have their different uses, though.
  
  
• A whiteboard.
  
  EDIT: Formatting.
  
  Also...
  
  
• The Skil 2362 Driver/Drill that I inherited is amazing.
  
  
• I also inherited a Milwaukee 1/2" Driver Drill which has been amazing. I don't have the side handle, but I have an extra battery. I also got a 2 3/8" hole saw the other day for my wire grommets. I almost never have to bug facilities/maintenance guys, just for wire runs.

Honestly, the best thing you can do is regularly clean the area and room you keep your rig in. The time between having to go in and clean the insides of your PC increases a lot.

Other than that I usually go in with an electronic duster instead of cans of compressed air.

If everything is plugged in to the correct location/orientation and seated properly, yes and possibly anything else that was vacuumed or connected to the motherboard at the time.

Take it to a computer repair tech and ask if they will bench test your motherboard, CPU, GPU, RAM.

Next time you want to clean out your compy, I'd highly recommend one of these badboys and leave everything assembled and clean with it off.

Sorry about your computer m8.

Real MasterRacers take care of their shrines, that's peasant level dust

Fucking disgraceful. Consoles break warranty if you open the case to clean it. With PC we have both the opportunity and honor of being able to do so.

If you want to save money in the long run, check out Electric Computer Dusters like this. You can use it to clean dust off of pretty much anything.

Get an electric duster, it pays for itself in no time, plus it's green for the environment. I bought one on Amazon a few weeks ago for my pc and I have been using it on everything.
Its WAY more powerful than cans, therefore more effective. Also, it won't freeze in your hand.

Highly recommend, here is a link.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001J4ZOAW/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_.Eigub0TRRKHK

Get yourself one of these.

https://www.amazon.com/XPOWER-Airrow-Multi-Use-Electric-Computer/dp/B00SI67YRU/ref=mp_s_a_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1539275924&sr=8-7&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=computer+duster&dpPl=1&dpID=41gJG1XTrXL&ref=plSrch

I bought one with my new Pc build, easily one of the best purchases I’ve made. If you buy compressed air cans a few times it equals the cost of this thing. Works great I can blow the dust out of my pc every week, instead of waiting a month because the cost of compressed air

This is something every tech department and techie should get. Its a vacuum that is just a bit bigger then a can of air and it blows much harder. Its nice not to have to wait for the can to warm back up so you can use it again. I love this thing it totally replaced cans of air for me. This was posted on here I think a while ago and it has saved me so much on air I take it whenever I have to go to a client.

If your cooler is loud, here's what you do:

Look up your cooler (or fans if you put on aftermarket fans). They will list the decibel level at max load. So there's your benchmark. Now go buy something with a lower decibel level.

tbh you probably just need some quieter fans, you can replace them very easily on most coolers. Grab yourself a Noctua fan (or two if your cooler has two fans) of the appropriate size, they are very quiet and should help you out.

Rubber screws can also be effective all over your case, depending on whether or not you move your tower around a lot or whatever:

https://www.amazon.com/Cosmos-Pieces-Rubber-Mounting-Screws/dp/B00H9905KA

---

Usually paste will come with a new cooler but it won't be high quality, so if that matters to you get a better rated brand. High end thermal paste is less than $10 USD so I always keep a tube handy. If you only replace the fan and don't have any thermal paste you will need to purchase more.

DataVac Computer Duster & Cleaner Super Powerful Electronic Dust Blower Environmentally Friendly https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FWSYOME/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_YbiByb98G3CH3

Followed up with 90+% rubbing alcohol. Otherwise, new parts.

Nope one I have has 12ft cord only thing I bought separately was a 3 ft extended hose.

DataVac Computer Cleaner / Computer Duster Super Powerful Electronic Dust Blower Environmentally Friendly Alternative to Compressed Air or Canned Air https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FWSYOME/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_MXXtDbTDHZCRZ

You can quite likely find disassembly instructions online for one, and for two, draw a map of the laptop on a piece of paper, then tape the screws you remove to that map. Layer by layer.

Lastly, consider getting this rather than cans of compressed air. It costs about as much as 4-7 cans, but it'll last forever and it's also great for blowing up air mattresses and other fun stuff.

I actually do compressed air (I use a Mechanical Duster) first to blow off all the dust and particles that could scratch, then use CG's Total Interior Cleaner sprayed on a clean microfiber cloth to wipe it down, follow up with another dry microfiber cloth to remove any remaining cleaner and buff, then lightly hit it with the air again to blow off any remaining dust that may have clung from the cloth to make it look perfect.

​

I got the carbon fiber package, but I've got similar black plastic in areas and this works extremely well for keeping it clean and protecting it from small scratches. One of my pet peeves is when my SO puts her hands and rings on the carbon fiber/plastic, have been able to buff out small scratches doing this and so far haven't had any permanent scratches.

I just wanted to clarify for some of the newer folks about hardware and electronics. There is no such thing as a graphics card getting slower over time. It is not like a water filter that just spits out lower and lower fps until it dies.

Reason for slowdown in games are:

Software- Maybe the game received an update and you need to update your drivers to accommodate the newer graphical changes. Or simply you have unnecessary programs hogging resources in the background. Generally the best remedy is to do cleanup old programs or do a full reinstall of windows and ensure you're running at peak performance.

Heat Related - Your components will start behave erratically and throttle down if they aren't clean and dust free. Make sure to clean your computer at the minimum every 2 months with a can of compressed air, or even better a Dust Vac.

Keep it elevated, on top of a desk is the best. Make sure your rooms are vacuumed, and keep open bottles of water (or other liquids) out of the same room. Invest in one of these, they're awesome.

I've moved my PC twice, and have had it for 3+ years, and don't suffer from massive dust problems.

There are too many 'bad' ideas. Compressed air could spray moisture, the vacuum cleaner could create static.

I use a small paint brush with natural hair and a vacuum cleaner. So far nothing bad happened. There are also air-blowers. This hand blower might be an option. This electrical blower too.

How about the DataVac Metro ED500? It's very popular with IT folk, and it's perfect for your intended usage.

http://www.amazon.com/Metro-Vacuum-ED500-500-Watt-Electric/dp/B001J4ZOAW

Bonus -- it's half the price of the compressor you suggested.

I have this one http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001J4ZOAW/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1465077427&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=Metro+Vacuum&dpPl=1&dpID=51F6SIpF39L&ref=plSrch and I love it. Easily paid for itself. I haven't used a foot pump but I could see it working a bit. As for just blowing with your mouth be careful since you could blow moisture and spit on your precious parts.

A magnetic screwdriver might be helpful. This kit comes with a anti-static wrist strap as well so you dont shock your computer parts. You also might need something to blow dust away to keep your computer clean, I prefer using an electric duster. But you can also get dust cans if you wish.

Also do you need WIFI? If you do here is a wifi card.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Type|Item|Price

----|:----|:----
Wireless Network Adapter | Gigabyte - GC-WB867D-I PCI-Express x1 802.11a/b/g/n/ac Wi-Fi Adapter | $38.89 @ OutletPC
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total | $38.89
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-11-05 22:45 EST-0500 |

Ok cool thought that woudl be the case as some motherboards have a second fan for CPU for cases of aftermarket coolers.

For removing dust I use an air compressor if you don't have access to one you could try one of the following:

• Compressed air in a can
  
• DATA-VAC
  
  Whatever you use make sure it has a plastic end too protect your machine from ESD.
  
  Do you know how to replace the thermal paste?

Perhaps it's better to tell people to use compressed air because it's less likely to damage your components (especially for most people, that may or may not know their way around the computer). Unless they use it wrong and liquid comes out all frosted.

Vacuum seems easier -- most people already have one and it is less messy.

But the best thing, apparently, is this motorized duster. Someone linked to this a while ago. It's pretty much the universal consensus this is the best at dusting. Just take the computer outside and blast it all away.

Use compressed air or something like this.

Make sure you don't spin the fans super fast, and if you use canned air make sure you keep the can level and spray in short bursts.

I bought a esd duster years ago that has been great. It blows out everything pretty well and I don’t have to buy those stupid air cans. I don’t know if it really matters, but I hold the fan blades before blowing them. I read somewhere that they can backfeed power if they are spinning from the cleaning.

Metro Datavac ESD Safe Electric Duster - Model ED-500ESD - computer and equipment duster https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00U01YVYK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_86R-BbZFZVSKY

I know you have already bought the compressed air, but you might want to consider something like DataVac. They're kind of expensive compared to compressed air cans, but you will only have to buy one. You wont have to deal with condensation issues either. Also, make sure to hold the fans still when you're blowing air onto them to prevent them over spinning and possibly damaging them.

Edit: I believe this same company makes Electrostatic Discharge safe models which is probably safer for your components.

> Metro Vacuum ED500

> This newest addition to Metro's proven DataVac line has been completely redesigned from the ground-up. It is much more compact and comfortable to use than previous models and features a new, almost unbelievably powerful 500-watt motor that literally blasts dust, dirt, and debris off expensive computer/electronic equipment to keep it running at peak efficiency. The new DataVac electric duster is a "greener," more effective, and cost-efficient alternative to the controversial "canned air" products
http://www.amazon.com/Metro-Vacuum-ED500-500-Watt-Electric/dp/B001J4ZOAW#productDetails

Yes, the name is confusing.

STOP BUYING CANNED AIR!! But something like this: http://www.amazon.com/Metro-Vacuum-ED500-500-Watt-Electric/dp/B001J4ZOAW

I use mine on everything, especially the few large builds I keep for display. I also use it on the internals of my gaming rig. Had it for 2 years now and it still works great, definitely more cost effective than canned air in the long run.

An air compressor works great, I recently got this, it's a bit pricey but fantastic for cleaning out PCs, and you can use it as many times as you want/need. I blow out all my systems once a week with it, was worth the money.

I'm not sure if this is going to help out but i was looking at this the other day and it seems good. Metro It has a lot of good reviews.

This a video of the product. At work

On a random note does anyone have one of these by chance? http://www.amazon.com/Metro-Vacuum-ED500-500-Watt-Electric/dp/B001J4ZOAW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1313591127&sr=8-1 It looks pretty sweet...and has great reviews.

Papi, bili ka nalang ng ganito.

​

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01BI4UQK0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

Pa freight forwarder (jinio, myshippingbox, etc) mo nalang. Meron din sa lazada pero putang ina ng seller kung makapatong.

​

Much better than compressed air and an overall great solution for cleaning PCs, keyboards, etc

Super powerful if you get a good one that plugs into the wall.

DataVac.

Better yet, if this'll be something you have a long time, invest in something like this (I'm sure there are cheaper, maybe better versions of this out there). Just plug it in, spray it down, unplug and put away, repeat 1-2 times a month.

I recommend on of these depending on how much you need to blow out. Been using mine for over 3 years and I save the cans for super small spaces that this might not be able to handle.

I highly suggest just buying a DataVac.

http://www.amazon.com/Metro-Vacuum-ED500-500-Watt-Electric/dp/B001J4ZOAW

They're great and much stronger than compressed air. Plus you never have to worry about buying compressed air again. For the most part just take you case outside and start blasting it. Take off your fan filters and rinse them off, then let them dry. You're way overthinking it otherwise.

You're saying recently which is relative, but yes, I'd say some dust is inevitable in any case.

As for cleaning, it is very common to used canned air (just be careful not to turn it up-side down).

A very popular choice I see on this sub is the Metro Vacuum, but it will set you back $60.

How does it compare to something like this? https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00006IAOR/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1475269451&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=metro+vac
Or there's one on Amazon that seems exact same as yours under different names is one the original?


Also I don't get how this won't cause esd but a normal vacuum would ? If you don't touch the tip to the pc charge has to build in the air plus if you hold it with one hand and have a wrist strap shouldn't there be no voltage between vacuum and pc?

The UV filter is your "test bed" and your protection for your actual front lens elements. If you have the uv on or off you should feel free to clean it using the methods you take from this thread as the smart way to clean your glass. There is no singular right way.

My method is never exposing the front element and just buying sigma UV filters and slapping them on immediately. Then cleaning is Zeiss wipes, and deep cleaning is a list that includes this Data Vac .

Read the advice & don't over do it.

Water should do the trick.

Seriously, though - consider something like this lovely product. Don't need to get one that expensive, but they're basically small reverse vacuums (they use vacuum motors, even) that have glorious output. Bought one a year ago for $30 and haven't looked back, and it should be available anywhere, even where compressed air isn't.

This one is a bit more expensive and a bit bigger, but I love the vacuum attachments to do the main work blasting tons of dust everywhere.

http://www.amazon.com/Metro-ED500-DataVac-500-Watt-Electric/dp/B001J4ZOAW

I know many people use air cans but having something like this air blaster or a small air compressor is a god send. I use it to clean dust from my PC.

Bought something like this years ago and it is the best to clean out dust in my PC (and blow leaves off my balcony).

Metro ED500 DataVac 500-Watt 120 volt 0.75-HP Electric Blower Duster https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001J4ZOAW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_kDd1xbSAA5WBZ

Maintenance wise I have a Metro DataVac for dusting my computer and peripherals. Safest way by far and For the price and not having to buy compressed air cans anymore it is definitely worth every penny.

You can buy one of the following toolkits. They are amazing for its price and you may reuse them at some point. I use them all the time. Don’t ware money on cheap shit. You will damage your expensive peace of tech.


iFixit Essential Electronics Toolkit DIY Werkzeugset bit set für iPhone Elekronik PC laptop Reparatur https://www.amazon.de/dp/B01MRNIFR6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_zddjDb18ZHN7T


iFixit 64 Bit Driver Kit Set mit 64 lange bits aluminium bithalter präzisionswerkzeug steckschlüssel schraubendreher torx security imbus kreuz schlitz diy präzisionswerkzeug https://www.amazon.de/dp/B0189YWOIO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_MedjDbAG0BBPX


iFixit Pro Tech Toolkit inklusive 64 Bit Driver Kit DIY werkzeug set zum reparieren reparatur reinigung schrauben öffnen von handy reparatur smartphones laptops und elektronik https://www.amazon.de/dp/B01GF0KV6G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_afdjDbNPDVSWX

These are German links. But google the toolkit name that you want and buy on your amazon page. Every of these three kits contains the screwdrivers that you need. I recommend you go for the last one since it includes good extra tools you may need.

Try buying one of these.

I got it a few years ago to clean out my PC and it works amazing. Much better than buying cans.

I've never had any problems vacuuming the outside of my PC - just use a soft brush attachment (you can get ones made of horse hair rather than plastic bristles - they work well) - gets into all the mesh, fan covers, etc.

Main thing to avoid is vacuuming your motherboard or video card directly. It's easy to knock a capacitor loose.

Vacuuming the fans inside the case is fine too, again with the brush attachment.

To really clean out a PC I'd remove the fans, vacuum them outside the case and then remove the video card & CPU cooler and blow those out with compressed air (or one of these), and then blow out the mobo while everything is outside the case.

I highly recommend something like this:

Metro Vacuum ED500 DataVac 500-Watt 0.75-HP Electric Duster 120 volt https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001J4ZOAW/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_gAwHwb17S61QZ

Can blow out those keys and fans without taking anything apart.

I can also recommend a solution of half rubbing alcohol and half distilled water for cleaning the outside, wrist rests, and screen.

It was not hard to build the mobo into the case, just keep on top of your cable management. If you can, remove the HD sled first (unless of course you need it). All the screws come with the products that I purchased, yes. Be careful about stripping screws, just use the proper driver (no power!). I believe I have 8 standoffs mounted + 1 nub that comes pre-attached to the case. I probably watched ALL the youtube videos, lol. https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=fractal+meshify+c+build

Things I made sure I had for my build before all my parts showed up.

1. Anti Static wristband
   
   
2. Computer screw set I did end up stripping a screw or two and had to replace them from here.
   
   
3. Nice microfiber cloth for the tempered glass leave the plastic on the glass during the build, it will get loaded with finger prints.
   
   
4. Screwdriver set you probably already have this, I just wanted magnetic ones.
   
   
5. Fine screwdriver I used this A LOT.
   
   
6. Magnetic screw tray
   
   I got most of these items as a tip from a youtube video but I can not find it at the moment. Yeah, definitely let me know if you need help with anything or just want me to show you "how I did it". The manual for the mother board has the header LEDs defined on there, there is one dead spot (no pin) in the top right, obviously dont use that one but also don't use the one below it even though its labeled ground for the reset button (thats the only issue I had).

• Clean your PC with a power duster. You probably just have excess dust and debris in your system and fans.
  
  That is easily the best product I have ever purchased.

or get this. datavac electric duster. I use one and its great. very powerful and comes with all the attachments you need

It's not too different from cleaning inside a computer (except the one we got with a mouse nest in it).

Unplug that sucker. One of these in one hand and a vacuum cleaner hose attachment held close to the action (NOT TOUCHING) in the other to get most of the stuff you blow out so you don't have another mess to clean up.

Here's what's in my toolkit...

Polishing cloth

Fine Mesh Pads

20x Loupe

10x Loupe

! Canned Air

Cotton Tipped Applicators

Goulet Mylar Paper

Goulet Brass Sheets

Goulet Grip

Goulet Silicone Grease

! Careful with the canned air. It can be the cause of some funny and not so funny accidents.

A bright desk light with a magnifier comes in handy.

Want a full clean?

Take a picture of your keyboard first, to use as a reference when putting everything back. Then pull all the keycaps out (use a key puller like this if you can), put them in a strainer/colander, and run them under warm water with soap. Move them around inside the colander as the water washes over them. After a few minutes of thorough rinsing, lay them out on a paper towel or something, and let them sit and dry overnight.

While the keycaps are off your laptop keyboard, depending on the kind of keyboard, you may want to get a can of compressed air like this and use it to blow out all the dust that sits beneath the keycaps.

After the keycaps have dried out completely, put them back on your laptop, using the picture you took as a reference.

or buy one of these http://www.amazon.com/Metro-Vacuum-ED500-500-Watt-Electric/dp/B001J4ZOAW/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1347896774&sr=8-8&keywords=dust+vac

i bought one ages back to clean my PC out with, works must better than the cans and is inifinite provided you have power LOL.

The best solution would be to open the console up and clean it with rubbing alcohol. If you don't want to explore that route, you can try using cyber clean

Probably overkill but I have one of these to dust my home office. It's like a more powerful can of compressed air that releases no moisture and never runs out.

I've used it to clean off some headphones I was selling on ebay and the duster made them look practically new.

If you're not worried about electrostatic get this Metro Vacuum which isnt actually a vacuum

If you are: Here or here

The vac is pretty much like a can of compressed air but without the $10/can price tag. Also you dont need to worry about asshole friends turning it upside down and spraying you.

Save yourself some money. https://www.amazon.com/Metro-ED500-DataVac-500-Watt-Electric/dp/B001J4ZOAW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1479942185&sr=8-1&keywords=datavac

This will pay for itself really fast. It offers more power, has a dust filter on the bottom, and it has some attachments. Great product.

Lol, but compressed air does do the trick. The thing is compressed is is expensive for what it is, and only lasts so long. I go through them pretty fast, and have easily gone through $100+ of them. This ESD Blower is only $60 http://www.amazon.com/Metro-Vacuum-ED500-500-Watt-Electric/dp/B001J4ZOAW/ref=sr_1_cc_1?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1421905552&sr=1-1-catcorr&keywords=Metro+ED-500ESD#customerReviews

I was going to get a Datavac myself but opted for this cheaper blower.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00SI67YRU/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It works great and I think I've already gotten my moneys worth.

yes you run a risk on ruining your system in my experience it doesnt do much just using a vacuum cleaner. this is a good thing to keep around it wont generate static and is computer safe. it works as good or better as canned air.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001J4ZOAW/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?ie=UTF8&m=ATVPDKIKX0DER

Well I know what I'm getting next. Thank you for the awesome response!

Or if you want to take things outside and blow dust everywhere, these are great fun!

this is the one I use and it's great. The little brush is great for cleaning dust out of radiators.

Xfactor Hydro XFUV10BLK 10ml LOCA... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IOPYLJE?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share. I've used this several times with great success.

Personally I'd use compressed air, from a can or one of those little duster thingies like this https://www.amazon.com/Metro-ED500-DataVac-500-Watt-Electric/dp/B001J4ZOAW.

You most likely can find cheaper ones, using that one as an example.

Just blow around the areas you cannot reach until the dust is gone, pretty simple. Turn of your pc when doing this. Just to be safe, you could stop fans from spinning while you clean.

I personally have the XPOWER brand duster and it is fantastic. The metal housing on OP's is susceptible to getting hot while the plastic on the one I linked stays nice and cool.

1. Unifi G3 dome: https://smile.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-UVC-G3-DOME-Wide-Angle-Network-Infrared/dp/B01D2OOODY/ Using BlueIris for the NVR.
   
   
2. Datavac duster: https://smile.amazon.com/Metro-ED500-DataVac-500-Watt-Electric/dp/B001J4ZOAW/ Little loud (as you can tell) but works great and no more buying canned air! I even use it to blow out the window fans and clean cottonwood seeds off the screens.

Thanks for replying. She's about 2 and she's spayed. Do you mean an air horn like this? https://www.amazon.com/Dust-Off-Compressed-Gas-Duster-Pack/dp/B00DZYEXPQ If water's pointless, why does air work better?

I spent $60 on this "DataVac" blower for our help desk, and we LOVE it. You could blow leaves off your deck with this thing. basically a 3/4 hp motor on a handle. http://amzn.com/B001J4ZOAW

https://www.amazon.com/Cosmos-Pieces-Rubber-Mounting-Screws/dp/B00H9905KA

Use these, the way they work is you pull them into the fan and then pull them through the case so that center rubber circle is in between the fan and case. Should help reduce fan vibration.

I use one of these http://www.amazon.com/Metro-Vacuum-ED500-500-Watt-Electric/dp/B001J4ZOAW

It is positively glorious for cleaning out PCs.

Canned air is for peasants.

My favorite tool is this electric air blaster. It cleans my PC along with my keyboard pretty well!

If it's just hand prints you're trying to get rid of, just wipe it down with a microfiber cloth when you're done. No big deal.

If you really want to thoroughly clean it, you're going to need to remove the keycaps. If you don't have a keycap puller, get one. They're inexpensive and you'll probably only need to buy it once.

When you're removing keycaps, you'll probably want to leave the spacebar and any of the longer keys alone. They aren't attached the same way the rest of the keys are, and can be a real pain to put back in place.

Once you've got the caps off, put them into a bowl of warm water with a bit of dish soap, swish them around in there gently and just let them soak for a while.

Now for the rest of the keyboard. Get a can of compressed air, or one of these and dust the thing out. (I would highly recommend that datavac though, you'll never have to buy compressed air again) If it's sticky or whatever, spray a little windex onto a paper towel, NOT ONTO THE BOARD, and wipe it.

When you're done with that, rinse the keycaps with some fresh water, set them on a towel, and let them dry completely before you put them back in place. Sometimes water gets stuck in the "+ shaped" holes on the bottom of the keys, so make sure you get it all out!

Bought this electric duster 4 years ago for $30. Still running strong and one of the best investments for my PC yet.

I just got one of these last week and I love it. You can turn it any which way you want and it also doesnt lose power after 25 seconds of continuous use like canned air.

Hm, both methods have advantages and disadvantages. I've tried both, and here are my thoughts on each:

Property| Whitestone | DIY
---|---|----
Cost | Expensive ($50)| Can be cheap ($15-20) if you already have a UV light
Installation Difficulty| Not too hard if you watch instruction videos| Can be more difficult due to lack of nice installation kit.
Quality| Protector has no dot matrix, good oleophobic coating, and no black borders| Hard to find protector with all of Whitestone's properties. Most protectors for the S8 still have minor dot matrix, but comes with oleophobic coating and no black borders.
Research Time | None besides watching instruction videos| Recommended to read through thread to find best protector and glue to buy. This can take a significant amount of time, because many of the links go to sold out/discontinued items. Xfactor is one recommended LOCA glue that's regularly in stock.

I think it will mostly depend on your use case. If you plan on putting your Cerberus on or near a carpeted floor, have pets, or live near a major roadway, I would recommend them. They will increase the impedance seen by what ever fans you have pulling air through them, costing you some flow-rate and likely a small increase in noise; so if you view these as issues you'd rather avoid, you can just be mindful to blow out the case every couple months or so.

You can get filters on amazon or newegg, just search for computer dust filters, or computer fan filters.

Additionally, if you're worried about dust, and don't want to keep buying cans of compressed air, I'd recommend a Computer Duster . I picked this one up a number of years ago and its never let me down.

> You'll probably find iFixit or similar site useful here for repairing that.

I found the iFixit Toolkit to be one of the best to not only work with the Vive (when I did the lens upgrade) but for other small electronics in general. Good recommendation.

http://www.amazon.com/Dust-Off-Compressed-Gas-Duster-Pack/dp/B00DZYEXPQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1425654194&sr=8-1&keywords=air+duster

Your new best friend

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001J4ZOAW/ref=oh_details_o09_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

you will save a fortune in canned air, and it will clean like nothing else can.

it depends on how much dust are talking about. cans are ok. but datvac is the best investment you can make

According to camelcamelcamel it hasn't gotten lower by much. 3rd party, yes, but not through Amazon. I mean, you save a couple of bucks and if you were in the market for a new screw then it's not bad.

Edit: https://camelcamelcamel.com/Cymas-Screwdriver-Magnetic-Driver-Electronic/product/B01IBHE0MC

Very good notice. I'd recommend canned air or at work we have an air compressor that we use to clean devices such as desktops out. (https://www.amazon.com/Dust-Off-Disposable-Compressed-Duster-Cans/dp/B00FZYT278/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1473956304&sr=8-5&keywords=canned+air&refinements=p_85%3A2470955011)

Not a bad idea, they even have specialized cleaning putty now just like silly putty with the added benefit of having a higher chance of not leaving residue behind.

I use a cleaning putty like this and it works great. I usually get mine in the checkout line at Microcenter if you have one of those nearby. Alternatively you can use scotch tape and it will help get out much of the crud that gets stuck in there.

I have one of THESE, and it's pretty awesome.

while I don't have a specific sub for you, I can highly recommend the following product: Metro Datavac

don't worry, it's not an affiliate link. It's way more economical then buying canned air, it's made in the USA, and it's got stellar reviews. I'm quite happy with mine.

EDIT: I should note that it is not a vacuum, despite the name. It blows air.

if you need to use a leaf blower every 6 months due to dust build up.... you seriously need to get some better case fan dust filters. XD

i live in the desert with 2 dogs and a cat, all shedding monsters. and after 6 months, there was barely any noticeable amount of dust in my case. the filters had a lot on it, but inside the case only had a very light layer.

i do use a vacuum like once a week or so through out the house, so that may contribute to cleanliness of case by limiting dust from the surroundings.

i just use https://www.amazon.com/Metro-ED500-DataVac-500-Watt-Electric/dp/B001J4ZOAW/ its far cheaper.

I bought This and honestly it is one of the best purchases I've made.

Unless you have a Microcenter or larger computer store nearby I don't think you'll have much luck finding it in a store - Best Buy doesn't carry it as far as I can tell.


Here's the brand I use: https://www.amazon.com/HomeDoReMi-Keyboard-Cleaner-4PCS-Electronics/dp/B00ITEDDQW

Yearly should be fine but definitely recommend doing so before summer weather hits. I personally do it somewhere around every 6-8 months, using my electric duster. Here's the guide I use along with a link to said electric duster:

https://imgur.com/gallery/UGxHR

https://www.amazon.com/d/Leaf-Blower-Parts-Vacuum-Accessories/Metro-ED500-DataVac-500-Watt-Electric/B001J4ZOAW

This is what I use, it's pretty good for cleaning your computer case as well.

I thought these were pretty well known in computer enthusiast forums..

Without accessories

With accessories

No filters, and I use a https://www.amazon.com/Metro-ED500-DataVac-500-Watt-Electric/dp/B001J4ZOAW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1465688002&sr=8-1&keywords=datavac to clean my computer with. Don't let it fool you, its super powerful, and I have even dropped it a couple of times on accident. It's built like a tank. I was thinking about buying two so I can keep one at mom and dads when I visit.

They're absolutely great. They're cheaper than a box of canned air and more powerful. They also don't create condensation on your parts.

The XPOWER A-2 Airrow Pro is what you want.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001J4ZOAW
 
for the price of ten or fewer cans of air you get something that basically lasts forever and does a much better job. one of my best investments in a house full of computers.

I use an air compressor once every month or 2. In between I use those electronic wipes to clean light surface dust off the insides. These are great also if you want to invest in 1: http://www.amazon.com/Metro-Vacuum-ED500-500-Watt-Electric/dp/B001J4ZOAW/ref=pd_cp_hi_0