Reddit mentions: The best rv engine & chassis parts

I have experience installing exactly 1 pair of struts on a hatch.

From what I remember, I stood on a scale and then weighed myself holding the door up. I found a pair of struts to hold this weight, plus maybe 10 extra pounds. I came pretty close to a perfect match for lift weight. (i had a fairly heavy wooden hatch) I did find that when it got close to freezing outside, the hatch wouldn't stay up.

Mounting was a huge pain in the @ss. It was alot of trial and error on my part. There is math/geometry to measure and almost perfectly align them. I can't remember what resources I used now, but it's definitely not rocket science. You can do it if you brainstorm for awhile.

Here are links to the hardware I used. Just cheap generic-ish auto struts and mounting hardware.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00Y3H1AQE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004713BR2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BRF38Q/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

photo of heavy @ss wooden hatch on my former heavy teardrop which I sold https://photos.app.goo.gl/q7uk3x6TkcQ4pZT82

eh it will be fine... if you want to be super safe, add some duct tape, you know they use it in nascar. /s

is this a jayco? I had a smaller one like 18-20ft long that only took one tank and it bolted to that angle iron underneath that tank. I honestly didn't love it and it was only a 20# tank, but it held.

personally i'd ditch this 40# one and get 2 20's or 2 30's with the bracket u/learntorv suggested. then when one is empty, you dont have to run out and fill it in the middle of a trip, you just switch to the other tank.

they do make one for 40# ones, but you are adding that all as tongue weight.
https://www.amazon.com/Flame-King-KT40MNT-Propane-Cylinder/dp/B00IZCNORQ/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=40+lb+propane+tank+bracket&qid=1566317260&s=automotive&sr=1-2

2 years of lurking and this post is the one that got me to sign up. I'm not sure what that means.

Anyway, you're looking at this all wrong. You do not want or need to use a fan in the exhaust stream. Heating cycles and carbon deposits will eventually cause it to fail, not to mention it's overly complex. Once it fails your wonderful fan now becomes a really sweet restriction. Cue backflow.

You're trying to design something complex with motors and bearings and moving parts that the RV industry has been making for years with 0 moving parts. Why?

http://www.amazon.com/Camco-44461-Gen-Turi-Generator-Exhaust/dp/B000BUU5XG

The exhaust is pressurized and heated. Assuming you have no restrictions in the system, simply extend the small exhaust pipe into the larger pipe using a flex pipe. Leave the gap and the larger vertical pipe becomes a chimney drawing its own fresh air from the gap as well as preventing back flow.

If you want to get even fancier, just connect the two pipes using a mesh flex pipe. You can source them on Amazon cheaply enough. I think that would be overly complex, though.

Bearing buddy

https://www.amazon.com/Bearing-Buddy-42104-Stainless-Protector/dp/B0000AZ7FL

https://www.amazon.com/Automotive-Engine-Compression-Test-Kit/dp/B000U58B56