(Part 2) Reddit mentions: The best standard cat litter boxes

Oh thank you sooo much for rescuing her!

As a new bunny parent take a look at the little guide on care I assembled below https://drive.google.com/open?id=1Z_IvDuy5Fr-VOKwBVBSmZih0m1ATCIquIMhYyFl4aIw . I really tried to include all the info a new bunny parent might want into this guide...

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Yes! Once you get her spayed, litter training will go much much better. :) And then you can bring her inside and let her roam - she will love it So don't delay finding a good RABBIT savvy vet to do the spay - that is key to minimizing risks... take a look at the "why spaying is essential section of my guide below" for tips on how and where to look for a good vet.

You will not regret it - spaying will also spare her the otherwise very high chance of uterine cancer and it just the best investment you can make into her happy and healthy future. :)

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However, it is possible for sure to start reinforcing and litter training with some success before you gether fixed. :) Chances are you'd be able to get her to pee more in the litter box and poops will be less scattered.

To begin two things are key - proper set up and knowing how to train/reinforce the habit of using the litter box. You do need to get her a better litter box - a corner one is just too small for her size and she will never use it.

Begin by watching a these videos they will really help!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0GHRkf5z6EQ - great video on litter training

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XI1aonqc5Tc - another great video on litter box set-up

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Try to get your bun a larger litter pan that would be good for "lounging" - she should be able to easily turn around in it for sure. It will tremendously help with litter training (bunnies can be litter trained)! Like a plastic one that you can get for cats for example... The litter box should be larger than the bunny, be filled with bunny-appropriate litter and have hay right in it. Bunnies often like to lounge around in their litter box and eat while they poop. So good-sized box and fresh hay in it will always encourage them to use it. Clean the litter box daily (occasionally use vinegar and water to disinfect and get rid of any slight smell).

The second key is to reinforce diligently! Use positive reinforcement to build a clear association that using the litter box leads to good things. Remind her that a litter box is a good thing by giving a tiny treat every time you see her use it for a while. If you are ever there and see her get ready to go (her tail kind of lifts up like in this video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ym7-BBY4ep4) scoop her up gently and put her in the litter box. If you see her make a poop, as soon as you see it place her right in the box so the rest she does in there. Once she goes give that little treat to her as a reward. This reinforcement if done consistently over time should help. Diligently place any poops you find back into her litter box together with the bunny to reinforce and if she pees outside use a napkin to blot it and again place back into the litter box.

Lastly be sure you clean the spot she pees outside her litter box each time with white vinegar to remove the scent of her pee so that she doesn't keep coming back to the spot.

For the set up you will need the things below (but watch the set up video first)

https://www.amazon.com/Petmate-Open-Litter-Mouse-Sizes/dp/B00JOZ444U - a good and very cost effective litter box

https://www.amazon.com/Carefresh-Natural-Premium-Bedding-Liter/dp/B000256DS6 - good recycled paper litter (Carefresh) - this is the best litter.

DIY hay feeder idea https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TLouX_cwM40

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It would be best if you could bring her inside ASAP as heat and predators outside are dangerous and also it would be much better for you and her to build a trust bond, for you to start litter training, and for her to be happier...

Keep in mind that after her spay she does need to be inside under you watchful eye in a safe and clean space.

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Free roaming is great and when not free you need a LARGE space for your bunny.

You can use NIC grids or an XXL dog crate or an xpen to make a great size and custom space for them to be in - something like the like this or this or this or this depending on how much space you can manage.

Rabbits are crepuscular - meaning most active at night and early mornings as prey animals, so they are quite active often when humans sleep...

You might consider doing something like this and this. They are using a large dog crate (though you could use a medium size maybe too if bun has an xpen attached) and they added a second floor to it also. The person kindly shared their set up and how they made it in this thread.

For flooring you can use a thick plastic tablecloth - you'll put this on the floor beneath the pen. It will be easy to clean, and protects your carpet from pee/droppings just in case. Over the tablecloth you will place a thick blanket that the bun can run on. Anchor outside pen edges so the bun can't dig it up. You can wash the blanket and wipe the plastic under it. You bun is happy and floor is safe.

My guide on bunny care has tips on how to set up bunny housing and bunny proofing your home if you'd like to take a look.

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Be sure you have a good diet for her now also:

The ideal diet for an adult bunny of about her size is - UNLIMITED hay, 1/2 cup MAX of plain pellets per day (not colorful bits or seed in them), 1 to 2 cups of green leafy veggies. Carrot, kale, and fruit only as occasional very small treats. No yogurt drops or processed sugars. Be sure you limit the pellets.

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As far as bonding with her... Bunnies are prey animals and as such timid by nature and it takes them quite a while to get used to people depending on the situation they come from. I am guessing er situation was far from ideal and she is understandably unsure and weary of people. But with some patience, the right approach and diligence you can change that. :)

What works best with bunnies is always always letting them come to you instead of you going to them... silly as it is, that is what makes them feel most secure around anyone who is trying to bond with them. The best way to encourage them to do this is another silly thing - get on the floor. Literally just sprawl out and do your own thing and wait for her to come and explore you (I promise she will if you are patient). On the floor you are on her own level and you feel both safe and curious for them explore.

I would honestly suggest trying to really focus for the next few week on spending lots of time on the floor with her when you are home and let her out to explore so she can choose to come to you herself. You are already letting her explore so the net step is just to be on the floor yourself and be patient - she needs to see you in your world and feel safe about you. Watch TV on the floor and lean against the sofa for comfort or even when you are on your laptop. Basically just make a real effort to spend lots of time with her on the floor for a couple weeks and see if that makes a difference. Always let her come to you on his own terms when he feels safe, don't reach for her if you feel like she is not feeling safe in that moment (kind of anticipate her feelings)... some greens will help make you feel more inviting and attractive, and over time she will learn that humans mean yummies and they are safe and he will pop by for pets from you more often. :)

Watch a couple videos below:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T3rlWno7B8g - great video

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MS9HcoC19h4 - another good video

Your questions aren't silly! It's great that you're thinking about how you can make you both comfortable before you dive into a new situation. Always set yourself up for success! :)

> do I buy a litter box/food/scratch-post before I plan to bring a cat home?

That's generally a good idea, yes. Means less stress for both of you as you're scrambling to get everything ready for him. You might ask the shelter what food the cat has been eating, as cats can get an upset tummy when switching brands/types. Not a big deal, but he will have poops that are a bit stinkier/liquidier than normal poops. That should alleviate within the week. You can lessen the tummy troubles by doing a more gradual change, mixing the food he is currently on with the food he will be on more and more, until he is eating what you want him on. But you can honestly just do the change, too, and just deal with the sadpoops for a little while.

I suggest a couple of different scratching posts, if you have the space! Cats like having options, like a horizontal post and a vertical one. Cats also like being high up, so if you can swing a tall post with platforms, he will probably like that.

Get two litter boxes! A lot of people don't realize it, but the rule of thumb for number of litters you should have is NumberOfCats + 1. So, 1 cat + 1 = 2 boxes. Clean them often. Cats are very clean creatures (especially compared to dogs) and are MUCH more likely to have accidents when they feel they do not have a better option than peeing in your bed. That's not their fault. You wouldn't want to step on your own pee/poop either! If you have problems with litter getting kicked out of the box, a litter mat can be helpful.

> Do I need to buy a carrier for the cat?

Yep. You'll eventually need to take him to a vet in all likelihood, and a carrier will make that so much easier, as most cats despise the car. I recommend a hard carrier. The softer ones seem nicer in general, but the hard carriers are easier to clean out, and you never know how a cat will be in the car until... well. They're in it. One of our cats poops and pees every. single. time. So he always gets the hard carrier.

> Should I contact a vet before I get the cat?

The shelter might require you to have a vet already, so I'd probably at least pick one out from google search. They might require you to go get a checkup, but probably not. That's more of a rescue thing, I think. Most shelters have their own in-house vet, so it's not really necessary. Don't be afraid to contact the shelter if he seems to be coughing and wheezing. Upper respiratory infections are very common in shelter environments due to the crowded nature of them, but they are also very treatable, and the shelter will be able to give you medication for him.

> How do I train a cat?

Someone mentioned Jackson Galaxy, who I generally agree is pretty good for training if you have some problems. But most of the time, cats are pretty out-of-the-box ready pets. That is to say, if you have an environment that is good for cats (where you let them have some space, where you don't make a huge amount of loud noise, where they aren't prodded and poked at constantly), they generally don't need training. We've fostered tiny kittens that automatically knew how to use the litter box. We also have boy cats who were not fixed until well into adulthood and have never had problems spraying.
It's instinct to go in the box, especially once they're fixed and don't need to mark territory really.

> For those of you who own a cat/cats, any advice for this first-timer?

Give both of you time to get to know each other. Don't force it. He will come to you, given time and space, and you'll be able to cultivate a better relationship built on trust and mutual respect if he knows that you won't force him to do things that he doesn't want to do (especially at first--think about it like building a friendship with a person; you would trust your friends to do things that you would never trust a stranger to do, and it's the same for him).

Cooing and gentle words are generally pretty good for coaxing, as is letting him smell your hand/something that smells like you before you approach for pets. Think about it like introducing yourself. You wouldn't go up to someone you didn't know well and just touch them without at least saying hi.

Every cat I have ever known, male or female, fixed or not, will pee in a pile of anything if it is left long enough. They see it as 'trash,' and I think it just registers as litter. So, if you are the type to leave clothes on the floor... I would try to stop that.

Keep nails trimmed. Scratching posts are for sharpening nails, which is an instinct that they have to fulfill, and you're giving them an outlet for. Some people think it's for 'filing' the nails down, but it's not. It's for keeping them sharp enough to get prey. You'll have to trim them.

And this is just my own personal opinion, but... young--but not kitten--boy cats are best for first timers. I have one girl, and I absolutely adore her, but she is very high maintenance/prissy/touchy, whereas my three boys are all pretty chill. Each cat is different though, so obviously your mileage may vary! It's just something I've noticed in general in my time of owning and fostering cats, that boys are more laid back/forgiving than girls (and thus I think a little easier for a first timer). Young adults are also great for first timers because you have less accidents (though that's generally not a big concern anyway) and they're more able to be on their own for longer periods of time. Older adults/seniors are great too if you want a really, really chill, more stand-offish cat, or if you want a cat that you'll have for <10 years, but if you want a little more energy and time, a cat that's about 1-2 years old is a GREAT way to go.

Some toys that are great for cats include the classic laser pointer, the feather toy, catnip toys, and crinkle balls.

Cats prefer to drink away from where they eat, so place his food bowl and his water bowl apart from one another! Some cats also prefer running water to still water, so if you notice your cat likes drinking out of the faucet (or if you just want to spoil your cat like I spoil mine...) you can get a water fountain for him!

Finally, if it's not working out for some reason, like your personalities just don't mesh well... take him back. I know it sounds hard, but it's best for him if he is in an environment where he is understood and his needs are met. There's no sense in forcing both of you to be miserable. Some shelters let you do a foster-to-adopt sort of thing, where you sort of try each other out for a bit. I like this option, because you hope for the best, but it feels a little bit easier to tap out if you need to. Either way, there's no shame in tapping out. Sometimes things just don't work the way you thought they would.

Sorry for the novel, but I wanted to be as thorough as I could. My parents recently got their first cat, and it's been... an ordeal for them, getting used to it.
It's great that you have some experience with cats though, so I think you'll be fine! Seriously, cats are sort of the next level up from a goldfish as far as easiness. Should be fine.

I hope you and your new furbaby are super, super happy together! :)

Sure thing! Theres a LOT of different types on Amazon, theres some that are actually really pretty, dont even look like litter boxes honestly, and some that have like, liner things? Like a liner pan that makes cleaning easier, theres a bunch of types if you type in top loading litter boxes, if you're wanting to spend a little more to get a nicer one. I was perfectly content for a litterbox-looking litterbox, and I'm not worried about liner pans and self cleaning etc...but this (from what I found) was the best and most cost effective one :) and it SERIOUSLY works awesome so far!

IRIS Top Entry Cat Litter Box with Cat Litter Scoop, Gray & White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0768H1181/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_uuG6CbVKPEPQC

This was at Target for like $3. I had to trim off the lip on the sides (wirecutters), and it fits perfectly. Its absolutely beautiful :')

Any litterbox that is max 11.5"x17" at the base (the printed dimensions are the top of the box, which is a lot wider) will fit. Though I haven't tried, I would imagine any of these (1 2 3 4) would work as well. There is about 1.5" of extra space in the back (the litterbox is a little shorter than the carrier), but I usually just store their (empty) food dish sideways in the slot, and it keeps anything from moving around. If its a longer trip, I wire their water bottle to the front grill and it drips into the litterbox. I have to take off the top to get the box in and out - it doesn't slide in/out through the grill door, that would be too perfect! - but its really easy, hardly any inconvenience.

I think you are the one who recommended this carrier to me a couple months ago. I adore it!

I'm bored, apparently, so I did some searching around.

This one is slightly similar, a little smaller at 19" L, 15" W, and 15.50" H. All for under $25! IRIS Large Split-Hood Litter Box with Scoop and Grate, Blue

This one is a little closer to your dimensions at 22x18x18.5, still slightly smaller. Available on Amazon prime for <24$. Petmate 22026 Jumbo Hooded Litter Pan,Assorted Colors

This delightful little box is closer to your specified dimensions at 19.19 x 23.71 x 16.17. Not found on Amazon but you'll enjoy a retractable lid for easy cleaning that also deters dogs! $34.99

I've looked far and wide but I can't seem to find your specific litter box. I hope you find a suitable replacement!

Also please don't tell my girlfriend how I spent my afternoon.

Awwww shucks /u/turtledave, you're a swell fella. Thank you!