Reddit mentions: The best threaded rods & stands
We found 14 Reddit comments discussing the best threaded rods & stands. We ran sentiment analysis on each of these comments to determine how redditors feel about different products. We found 12 products and ranked them based on the amount of positive reactions they received. Here are the top 20.
1. TOOGOO(R) 100x Gold 8mm Pyramid Studs Spots Punk Nailheads Spikes for Bag Shoes Bracelet
- Brand new and high quality
- Ideal for decorating your bags, belts, leather bracelets, shoes, coats, gloves, etc.
- Suitable for DIY
Features:
Specs:
Color | As Shown |
2. Class 4.6 Steel Fully Threaded Rod, M3-0.5 Thread Size, 1 m Length, Right Hand Threads
- Fully threaded rod
- Class 4.6 steel is often used in applications where toughness is the primary consideration
Features:
Specs:
Height | 0 Inches |
Length | 1 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Width | 0 Inches |
3. Ten (10) #10-24 Brass Knife Threaded Inserts for Wood | .500" Length (SNG871)
- Superior hard wood holding power with knife thread
- #10-24 Internal thread and . 500" length
- Solid brass
- Easily installs with a screwdriver, bolt/jam nut, or optional drive tool
- Use with 3/8” drill bit
Features:
Specs:
Height | 2 Inches |
Length | 4 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Width | 2 Inches |
5. Class 8.8 Steel Fully Threaded Rod, Zinc plated, Meets DIN 975, M12-1.75 Thread Size, 1 m Length, Right Hand Threads
Fully threaded rodClass 8.8 steel is often used in applications where strength is the primary considerationZinc plating resists corrosion and has a reflective appearanceMeets DIN 975 specifications
Specs:
Height | 0 Inches |
Length | 1 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Release date | March 2017 |
Weight | 1.65 Pounds |
Width | 0 Inches |
6. Low-Strength Zinc-Plated Steel Threaded Rod, 5/16"-18 Thread Size, 3 Feet Long
Material: SteelThread Size: 5/16''-18Length: 36"
Specs:
Height | 0 Inches |
Length | 36 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Size | 36 inches |
Width | 0 Inches |
7. Threaded Rod, Low Carbon Steel, 1-5x6 ft
- Price For: Each Tensile Strength: 60, 000 PSI Rockwell Hardness: B70 Finish: Plain Thread Type: Acme Thread Direction: Right Hand Material: Low Carbon Steel Temp. Range (F): Not Rated Item: Threaded Rod Yield Strength (PSI): 45, 000 Class: 2G Tensile Strength (PSI): 60, 000 Overall Length: 6 ft. Thread Size: 1"-5
- Country of Origin (subject to change): United States
Features:
Specs:
Weight | 0.76 Pounds |
8. Surepromise 50 Poppers 15mm Snap Fastener Press Stud Kit + 4 Fixing Tool Leather Craft
50 sets 15mm metal snap clasp for leather craft.25 sets of silver color.25 sets of bronze color.Comes with a set of 4pcs fixing tools: 2.5mm punch =1, 1x2cm base =1, male setting =1, female setting =1Poppers Size: Cap diameter 15mm
Specs:
Weight | 0.42108292042 Pounds |
9. uxcell 320mm x M8 Stainless Steel Thread Bar Stock Rod Silver Tone
Product Name : Threaded Rod;Length : 320mm / 12.6"Thread Size :M8 x 320mm;Material : Stainless SteelColor : Silver ToneNet Weight : 110gPackage Content : 1 x Threaded Rod
Specs:
Color | Silver Tone |
Weight | 0.24 Pounds |
10. National Hardware N179-804 4005BC Smooth Rods in Zinc, 1/2" x 36"
- Manufactured from steel
- Designed for axels on wagons, carts, etc., and other do-it yourself projects
- Can be drilled, heated, shaped, etc.
- WeatherGuard finish for superior corrosion resistance
- Manufactured from steel
- Designed for axels on wagons, carts, etc. and other do-it yourself projects
- Can be drilled, heated, shaped, etc
Features:
Specs:
Color | Zinc Plated |
Height | 1 Inches |
Length | 36 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Size | 1/2" x 36" |
Width | 1.5 Inches |
11. 303 Stainless Steel Fully Threaded Rod, #0-80 Threads, 12" Overall Length
Rod/stud is fully threaded along its length303 stainless steel provides good corrosion resistance and strengthPlain surface has no finish or coating
Specs:
Height | 0.5 Inches |
Length | 12 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Size | #0-80 |
Width | 0.5 Inches |
12. Prime-Line Products PL 14846 Window Screen Plunger Latch with 3/8" - 7/16" Frame, Aluminum,(Pack of 25)
Nail set style, spring-loaded aluminum plunger boltsMill-finished aluminum7/32 x 1-1/2 inchesUsed to hold aluminum-framed screens in window channels
Specs:
Color | Aluminum |
Height | 1.25 Inches |
Length | 4.25 Inches |
Number of items | 25 |
Width | 4.938 Inches |
🎓 Reddit experts on threaded rods & stands
The comments and opinions expressed on this page are written exclusively by redditors. To provide you with the most relevant data, we sourced opinions from the most knowledgeable Reddit users based the total number of upvotes and downvotes received across comments on subreddits where threaded rods & stands are discussed. For your reference and for the sake of transparency, here are the specialists whose opinions mattered the most in our ranking.
fear cuts deeper than swords
This was so fun to do! :D
If you're doing docker why not k8s? :)
Or look at your other options. Ubuntu is great, but there are a few OSs particularly for docker containers like rancheros that will reduce overhead and streamline deployment.
And I mod a lot of my gear. I would consider stringing them on a couple rods or building a tower. The rods would be nice because you could hang them in a rack :).
Edit: by rods I mean a couple of these guys cut to length (also available shorter and cheaper, but the are 2x rack length). Just get some matching nuts and bam, instant rack. If you want a non-rack form factor something else may better allow for swapping out parts and mounting fans. If rack mount, hang that from a shelf, load the shelf with psus. Just use 80mm (not 120) coolers to maximize packing :)
Brass insert - like you find in plastic molding, or in wood working. One for each corner. There are several types, wood working ones have a complete screw on the out side.
Like this: https://www.amazon.com/10-24-Threaded-Inserts-Length-SNG871/dp/B07XC6QTW6
Others have part of the thread removed (so it will not come out) or they are knurled, a knurled or modified thread will not back out of the epoxy
You can modify a knife edge thread by bending/cutting/whatever ... thus when the epoxy hardens, it can’t back out.
I assume you can remove the lid and turn it upside down, meaning: Hole side up.
Then like kev-lar70 says: Remove the core with an allen wrench in a drill, you need some area inside the lid to pour the epoxy and for it to grab into and form onto. Scuff up so your epoxy can get type of a grip.
Pour the epoxy in a hole, then while it is wet - insert BRASS threaded inserts
While the epoxy is wet, you need to keep the INSIDE thread clean, so take a screw dip it in vaseline (or simular), then screw it into the insert. Make this screw extra long so it is like a handle to hold it in place as the epoxy sets. The goal of the vaseline is to keep the epoxy out of inside thread, and act like a “release agent” for the space between the brass insert and your screw.
I would make one or two practice ones to see how well it works, and to understand how well the insert holds and stuff like that.
Boost its output by making a cheap solar concentrator! Find some spare heatsink(s) and affix it(them) to the back of the panel with thermal paste. Then make a cheap, large parabolic shape roughly 4x4ft by bending chicken wire and then paper mache over it. When still wet, cover the whole thing in a layer of aluminum foil and it should stick to the paste and stay on there. Then you need to make some sort of tripod like thing to mount the panel at the correct distance from the reflector. I'd use three steel spring clamps to attach to the frame, then drill 3/8" holes through both handles. Get three 3-4ft pieces of 1/4-20 threaded rod (buy all this stuff at your local hardware store). Put a 14/20 nut on the rod and thread it down a little over and inch, followed by a large washer. Then stab the end though the paper mache and into one of the chicken wire segments near the edge of the reflector, followed by another washer and nut to hold it in place. So you've got nut-washer-chicken wire-washer-nut. Repeat with the other two rod segments so the three are evenly spaced around the perimeter of the reflector, like a satellite dish.
Now take everything outside in the sun, and angle the reflector so that it's roughly pointing at the sun. Using a large piece of cardboard or similar (be careful not to burn yourself as the focal point will be very hot!), find the correct height for the solar panel to be placed. The correct height will be where the size of the light blob is slightly larger than the size of the solar panel. Now tilt it away from the sun to finish assembly. To the top end of the rods, add another nut followed by another washer and thread them down to roughly the distance you just estimated. One you have done that for all three, take your handle-drilled spring clamps off the solar panel and slide them down over the rod through the handle-holes. The larger hole (3/8") will allow them to play a bit. With all of them on there, take the solar panel and re-attach the camps. You'll have to shimmy things around a bit. Now turn it back to the sun and make sure the panel is 100% covered by light. you can adjust the height and coverage by raising or lowering the nuts. When you've got it correct, put another washer and nut on and thread them down to loosely sandwich the clamp between the other nut. You want just enough pressure to keep the nut secure, not so much that you squeeze the handle on the clamp. Tada! Done! You've just made a solar concentrator for 20 bucks!
You can increase the output of the panel by 6-7 times by doing this, provided your heat sink cools the panel effectively.
I got a long piece of all thread that matched the same thread as the Clicgear wheels I bought for it. Drilled out the holes where the bottom roller blade wheels are so the allthread could fit through snug. Then used female to female nut union/coupling to fasten the Clicgear wheels to the allthread. Here's about what I used. Cost ~$80 to do, so I'd make sure you get the right stuff as this was a quick google. You could call Clicgear and ask them all the thread size info and go to grainger and make sure you order the right nut/allthread. You could also go on Zuca Mods on facebook and ask there. Very active community.
https://www.clicgearusa.com/products/clicgear-maintenance-free-wheelscB
https://www.amazon.com/Threaded-plated-M12-1-75-Thread-Threads/dp/B00G3QETRU/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=M12+threaded+rod&qid=1568719070&s=industrial&sr=1-5
https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-1-75-Pitch-Length-Stainless-Coupling/dp/B07JNPWGBF/ref=sr_1_1?qid=1568719215&refinements=p_n_feature_fourteen_browse-bin%3A11434082011&s=industrial&sr=1-1
Interesting Fact: I'm filming a Reality Show this friday!
Sadly it's only a pilot and will probably not get picked up.
I could use this for a video that I have planned
Please pop my cherry! :)
You may want to toss in this and these and these for the Z-Brace. I know they are a little overkill on quantities but its either 100 for $10 or 10 for $7. Assuming you dont already have this stuff laying around.
All Thread Rod?
Tada~
Amazon all teh metric things!
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Poppers-Fastener-Press-Fixing-Leather/dp/B00HN8LA9C/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1498405608&sr=8-10&keywords=snap+fastener+tool
https://www.amazon.com/Threaded-Rod-Carbon-Steel-1-5x6/dp/B01LZI4PPH/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?keywords=acme+threaded+rod+1+inch&qid=1572777697&sprefix=acme+threaded+rod+1+&sr=8-5
I'm not sure what your current setup is but you will need a fixed stop on one side. If you use a window screen plunger,
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00XLL9JLQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_GQ2sDb63H66RP
the stop would be on the outside and you will need to drill holes in the screen frame. If you use a window screen latch,
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IKVH88I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_wY2sDbV04N3S6
the stop would be on the inside.
Or, you could nail a fixed stop in the outside and screw a removable stop on the inside. The stop is just a thin, narrow strip of wood 3/8" x 3/8".