Reddit mentions: The best transfer paper

Sure! I just made them up so there aren't instructions, but here's what I used and what I did. My wedding colors are magenta pink and gold, with pops of teal blue (Indian - we like lots of colors :)) Also, now that I've written this all out I realize it's a lot of DIY - I'm super into crafting and it relaxes me (especially during the stress of wedding planning) so it's all good ... but if DIY stresses you out or if you are pressed for time this might be a bit much.

1. Got 450 pure white note cards from Paper Source in the 4 bar size (which is 3 1/2" x 4 7/8"): notecard link
   
   
2. Used the paper source PEGz stackable letter set to stamp "TOMORROW" in teal on 150 cards, "IN ONE YEAR" in gold on 150 cards and "IN FIVE YEARS" in magenta on 150 cards (these are inside the envelopes that are shown, I'll try to add a picture): stamp link ... I did have to buy two sets of these to have enough letters but my best friend loves crafts too so I'm happy to give one to her after I'm done; and I had the stamp inks already
   
   
3. Ordered 150 each of the A1 invitation envelopes from envelopes.com (3 5/8" x 5 x 1/8") in champagne metallic, gold metallic and azalea metallic: envelopes link
   
   
4. I then stamped the envelopes to match the cards using the same stamp set, but also with colors that were most visible - "TOMORROW" in teal on the champagne colored envelopes, "IN ONE YEAR" in black on the gold envelopes and "IN FIVE YEARS" in white on the azalea colored envelopes. I then stuffed the respective note cards into the corresponding envelopes and that part was done.
   
   
5. For the little pocket I used paper source's #10 envelopes (4 1/8" x 9 1/2") in peacock. I needed each of the pockets to be 3.5" tall and so glued down the open flap on the open end of the envelope and then measured up 3.5" from each end and made a straight cut. This gave me two "pockets", closed at the bottom, 4 1/8" wide and 3" tall: pocket envelope link
   
   
6. I designed the white rectangle to go on the front of the pocket in illustrator (I'll call them "pocket labels"). I used the fonts "Stylish Calligraphy Demo" for the "love notes" header, "Snell Roundhand" for the line below "for myname and fiancename" and then "Marion" for the rest of it. I made a super light grey rectangle that was 3" tall and 3.5" wide as cutting guides for after I printed things out - this would leave ~1/4" border of the teal on each side once I pasted these onto the pockets
   
   
7. I printed out the pocket labels on 8.5" x 11" cardstock in pure white from paper source. I was able to fit six pocket labels onto one sheet. CRITICAL to being able to do the gold foil in the coming steps is printing on a laser printer, it will not work if you print on inkjet. cardstock link
   
   
8. I ordered a laminator and a roll of gold foil from Amazon to do the top of the pocket label in shiny gold (the poor woman's version). The laminator was $18 and a 25ft roll of gold foil (way more than I'll need but I'll use it later) was $20. laminator link gold foil link
   
   
9. I cut out each of the pocket labels and got to doing the gold foil. The basic idea is that when you put the gold foil on top of the pocket label and then run it through the laminator the ink re-melts and the gold foil sticks to it (which is why you need to use a laser printer). You also want to make sure you don't put gold foil over any ink where you don't want it to stick (duh, I know, but I have made this mistake).
   
   
10. I cut out a little piece of gold foil - just big enough to cover the first two cursive lines of text in the pocket label, but not any bigger so it didn't touch the border, any other text, etc. I placed the foil gold side up over the cursive text and then put the two into a folded piece of regular printer paper. I ran that through the laminator (at the highest heat setting, mine is 5mm) and then when I took it out and peeled off the gold foil it was only stuck on the cursive font.
    
    
11. I used double sided tape to attach the pocket label (white) to the pocket (teal) and inserted the three envelopes (champagne, gold, azalea) that have the notecards inside of them. I'll probably add a menu late in the game and then either a ribbon or paper band with our monogram to hold it all together but that is TBD and won't happen for a while.
    
    Phew, that was a lot, I hope it was helpful! Let me know if you have questions and obviously PLEASE share your pictures if you make it too!
    
    EDITED: To fix typos

In case you're still looking for suggestions, the one julet1815 linked below on Amazon is good, but too sticky for me (it's high tack). I prefer the medium tack of the same brand; it's worked perfect so far.

Frisco Craft [Medium Tack] 12" x 50' Clear Transfer Tape

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07B64PNY3

I seem to be transfer tape cursed in that I always have problems. But the Frisco Craft one has been the best for me so far.

Note: It's normally $15.99 but looks like it's out of stock currently and only 3rd party sellers have it for crazy prices. I reached out to Frisco Craft to see when it would be back.

There are a lot of different companies that sell it in different sizes. This](https://www.amazon.com/x100-Paper-Transfer-Tape-Roll/dp/B017URUT92/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1502832580&sr=8-2&keywords=paper+transfer+tape) is just one example and I wouldn't suggest getting one this size unless you know it's what you are wanting.

Here is some more information on the types of tape also.

Paper transfer tape is low tac which means it's less sticky which is why I suggest it but you can also use a low tac clear transfer tape if you want something clear so it's easier to see. The main reason for the low tac is that if it's high tac then the removable vinyl (which is most Cricut brand vinyls) will not stick to the surface well enough to be able to be pulled off a transfer sheet that's really sticky. If you were using one of the higher tac sheets then it wouldn't want to stick. There is also a medium level that I've found varies from brand to brand that should also work.

This video should also help, it's a different project all together but the general idea of the stencil and how to transfer it is there.

One thing that I've learned from experience that where you live makes a difference in regards to a tape being too sticky or not sticky enough. I live in a more humid area and clear shelf liner doesn't work at all for me, it doesn't stick well enough to transfer the images and I've tried the cheap brands and the expensive ones and it's never worked. I also don't find the Cricut Brand to be too sticky, I don't use it because I think it's way overpriced but in a pinch it's worked well for me so to find what works for you is really trial and error. If 30 people say something works and it doesn't work for you, it's not necessarily that anything is wrong it could be any number of factors at play.

Also another thing that tends to be machine specific is the blade settings. What cut works best depends on material, brand of material and age of the blade.

For adhesive vinyls I use Washi Tape or Washi Paper settings on my machine (start with tape then move up as bade gets more dull) and with HTV I use the Vinyl setting for non glitter and Iron On+ for glitter. These work well for me but doing a test cut to find what settings work well for you is VERY helpful. I have a text cut that's a square with a circle inside and some words in print and script that I use which covers pretty much everything I would cut so when I'm using a new material or am having issues I cut out that project on a 4x4 section to see what's working and what isn't.

Thank you :) I can't take credit for the actual designs, I just made them cuttable and put them on the dresser.

To layer different colors, I use transfer tape that has a paper backing like this and after applying the first layer, I pick up the next layer but don't remove the paper backing all the way. I put the paper layer back under the vinyl then line it up on top of the first layer (the paper is in between the 2 layers at this point). Once I have it lined up, I fold a corner of the paper back and stick it down then hold that corner in place while grabbing the paper from underneath. I slowly pull the paper making sure the corner doesn't move and smooth down the 2nd layer as I pull the paper away from between the 2 layers.

I hope that made sense. :)

>I watched the video tutorial but how do we stick the card together? It looks like on this max c you painted most of the areas. Wouldn't that make it more difficult for it to stick to the blank card since most of the adhesive side is covered with paint now?

All you need is the edges to be clear of paint since the edges will hold the rest down. The rest doesn't really matter.

>Also for the gold lettering is there a specific link? I only found these two on amazon: Therm O Web Deco Foil (Pack of 20), Gold and Deco Foil, 5 Transfer Sheets, 6" x 12", Gold.

This is the foil I used: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00SW79E0A

>If you commission cards for people can you share them here on reddit as well?

Sure, I'm not going to post my stuff too much because I don't want to spam the subreddit though. People would get bored/annoyed with it eventually.

Yeah, cricut transfer tape is notoriously too sticky. I like this one from Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B073XRLZ6Z/ref=ya_aw_oh_bia_dp?ie=UTF8&psc=1


you can buy different sizes of vinyl, starting with sheets and going up to rolls of different lengths. I started with 12“ x 12“ sheets but now I’ve got about six rolls of 12“ x 5' yard vinyl in colors that I love. And even more rolls of htv. It's an addiction. Don’t plan on making money off of it until you’ve really gotten good at it, it takes a little while to become an expert.

You shouldn't use regular pencil or charcoal because of the problem you described.

Lately I've been working with watercolor and acrylic and I sketch with watercolor pencils. You might want to use a wax-based colored pencil instead like prismacolors, depending on what you're doing and what type of paint you're using.

You can also draw your image onto paper and then use transfer paper to copy that image onto the canvas.

Or these white charcoal pencils are supposed to leave a mark without later invading your pigments but I'm suspicious if that's true or if it's just less noticable because it's white. I'd also expect them to be most useful against a colored background. I just purchased these and haven't tried them yet so I'm passing that info on as second hand from YouTube.

If you're using opaque paints you might get away with using a marker but that sometimes bleeds through later.

And a lot of artists use a really thin version of their paint for sketching if you're using oil or acrylics. I used to do this with oil paints and really liked it as I could block in large areas with thin washes which would allow me to see the overall composition as I developed the sketch.

I’d recommend using carbon transfer paper. Tape your printed out initial pattern over a piece of transfer paper to the workpiece, and then trace all lines with a pen or pencil. Then you’ll have a pencil outline on the workpiece you can go over with your burning tool. Hope that helps. Happy burning

Carbon transfer paper

Alright I am home now.

These are the needles I bought and have lasted me 6 tattoos (5 of which took two sessions). There are some in there I will probably never use but you never known when you decide to do some fat lines and need those 9rl's.

Washing your hands is nice but gloves are another layer of safety on top. Unless you are going to the doctors soon to swipe some.

This is the ink I use. Small but has lasted me.

Dettol for stencil transfer paper because I am not about to fuck up the bad on something that is gonna stick around for a bit. I also just have alcohol wipes at home from a kit, dollar store plastic shot glasses I wash, and paper towels to complete my kit. Should set you back 50 but last you through a ton of stick and pokes.

Item

Show this gift some love. Thanks for the contest.

I recently got some transfer tape from Frisco Craft that I really like. They offer different variations of transfer tape (they'll send you a bunch of samples with your first order). I just ordered through Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073XRLZ6Z/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 That's just a roll of transfer tape without backing. I find it really easy to work with actually. But it's not the paper kind; I see you had gotten the paper transfer tape.

1. You don't necessarily need to know how to draw well. It depends on what kind of prints you want to make. Most people sketch out a preliminary drawing and transfer it onto their printing matrix in some way. You can use graphite transfer paper to trace an image onto a block for relief printing.
   
   
2. I think the easiest way to start would be with relief printing. You can get a basic starter kit like this one. It's got everything you need to get started, plus some extras.
   
   
3. Beginner techniques for relief printing:
   
   

1. Sketch your image. Draw/transfer it onto your block.
   
   
2. Carve your block with the gauge. Remember, whatever you carve away will not get ink on it. The surface you leave alone will be what transfers the ink. Also remember your image will be reversed on the paper. If you're carving text, it needs to be backwards on the block so it prints correctly on the paper.
   
   
3. Get your ink ready for rolling. Squeeze some ink out of your tube. Use something like a putty knife to spread the ink into a horizontal stripe. Use your brayer to roll a section of that stripe down so you also have a vertical stripe. Roll the ink up and down this stripe several times until you have a nice, even layer. This is hard to explain but you should have a "T" of ink, essentially. Two perpendicular stripes of ink.
   
   
4. Inking time! Roll your brayer over your block and watch that image appear! Roll from top to bottom and use even pressure across the entire block. You may need to pick up more ink by rolling your brayer over your vertical stripe from step 3 again.
   
   
5. Make your print. Press your paper down on top of your block. Apply pressure without moving the paper. You can use your hands, a wooden spoon, a bone folder, a baren, or a printing press. It comes down to personal preference and how much you want to invest. I have this little press, but I've found that I prefer hand pressure for small prints. I'll use my press if I've been working for hours and my fingers are about to fall off.
   
   
6. Repeat steps 4 and 5. You will probably make several test prints before you make one really good one. And then the challenge is making several prints that all look similar enough to be in the same edition.
   
   That's about as basic as printmaking gets. And yes, there are techniques that are way more difficult. Etching is a whole different beast from relief printing. Aquatint etchings drove me insane at school, but the results when done right are breathtakingly beautiful. And I don't even know entirely how lithographs are made.
   
   I know this is a lot to absorb from a reddit comment, so if there are any classes offered near you, I highly recommend taking some!

yup something like this

https://www.amazon.com/PFT-Transfer-Stencil-Sheets-Pirate/dp/B0036WEBLI/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1484869140&sr=8-4&keywords=tattoo+transfer+paper

i like using it to make sure the size and whatever are going to fit body lines and such

Make your own. Take a clear photo of one of the racoons and arrows, or scan it. Clean it up, lay out the pattern. Find a suitable blank card stock. Print the racoons with a inkjet printer, then print the arrows in black with a laser printer. Get some foil transfer sheets, and do your own gold foil over top of the black arrows.

these ones are the ones I've been using, been working pretty well !

10 PCB Circuit Board Thermal Transfer Paper A4 size Transfer Paper DIY Circuit Board Special Paper https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CGRL2G0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_VvEYCbMDSN05T

Thats what I use. I try to print many etches at once because the paper likes to roll once heated in the printer. I use Adobe to put them all on one pdf to preserve the image size.

I have used Angel Craft Angel Crafts 12" by 8' Premium Transfer Paper Tape Roll with Grid for two years now and I love it!

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00R3NITS2?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

Craftopia Transfer Tape

This is all I’ve ever used, works like a dream!

i used whatever was cheap on amazon, but it seems like it's not available anymore https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073XRLZ6Z/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I use transfer tape for making printed shirt with vinyl. It might be something you can use. Probably not going to be very pretty.

Pretty much

Mini Olive Green Digital... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071X9YN2X?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Frisco Craft 4336883150 Transfer Roll 12" x 50 Feet Clear Lay Flat | Application Tape Perfect for Cricut Cameo Self Adhesive Vinyl for Signs Stickers Decals Walls Doors Windows https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B073XRLZ6Z/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_.gGvCbMP2KCR3

I have been using this roll for about 6 mos and have yet to be disappointed.

Look into hydrodipping, here's (https://www.amazon.com/Timber-Strata-Hydrographic-Transfer-Dipping/dp/B0711X6XMH) a True Timber Strata film which can be used. There are a bunch of videos on youtube about how to apply it.

Ive got Clear, low and med tack, transfer tape. In 6" and 12" rolls. Ive also got some low tack that acts like high tack. I usually have some of this transfer paper on hand. Works so good. just enough sticky to get the vinyl off the backer. But not too sticky that you have to fight it off the surface.

Ok, there's a couple ways to do this that don't require Etsy.

If you're a DIY-er, You can head to Amazon and pick up some thermal foil After you get that, all you have to do is make your art print in whatever font you want (if you're not comfortable designing it yourself, head to your local printshop). They then can print it via a laser printer. You then just lay your foil over the top and do a medium heat iron over it (or run it through a lamination machine without the lamination strips). The foil then will stick to your laser printed words but nothing else. This option is your cheapest and easiest since you're paying for materials and that's it. It's REALLY simple to do.

The other option is to contact an actual print shop and ask them to do some foil embossing - but this is def. going to be pricier.

And the 3rd option is doing it how you are doing, looking for a vendor to do it... Which would be the mid-range for your pricing, but can prove difficult finding a vendor who will do everything custom for you... It looks like this person does it and has decent reviews... but I'm not sure what size you're looking for.

This post is pretty old, but I think this is what you need:

https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00HX2JESC?psc=1

It is generally called Carbon Paper it seems, but the reviews confirm it is comprised of graphite.

Why don’t you use graphite transfer paper and then ink it freehand? https://www.amazon.com/Graphite-Transfer-Paper-Tracing-MyArtscape/dp/B018YR1G30

I wasn't able to find it anywhere in Calgary for a decent price, but was able to find it online at amazon.ca

https://www.amazon.ca/Therm-Deco-Foil-Pack-Gold/dp/B00UY14KT2/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1485196396&sr=8-2&keywords=gold+foil

Here's some other shots from his Twitter:
https://twitter.com/SeanmanX/status/876528491600031744

I thought it had to be an acetone marker at first but video shows it must be some kind of ink or foil transfer.

edit: Maybe this stuff?

Thermal laminator and gold deco foil

do you have a laser printer? if so you need this

Transfer Paper

Two more tricks:

1. Etch/cut through masking tape or paper (i.e. non-plastic) transfer tape
   
   Result: https://i.imgur.com/vAuZxLp.jpg
   
   
2. Rub with a moist rag of Hydrogen peroxide - doesn't damage the wood (surprisingly)