Reddit mentions: The best craft paper

For "prints" - I'm able to make 300 that have substantial amount of white space...as in not completely full color edge-to-edge, but illustration, or lots of colored text & boxes on white background. But I find to print 2 A2 cards on a sheet with a full bleed is about 30-40 seconds or so. I haven't used a stopwatch or what not, but I usually just let the printer do it's thing, I run off and do errands like the dishes, and just come back to make sure the ink isn't streaking if it's warned me that it's low. Usually a sign the ink is low is if there's like a skip in the print, or a very thin line...or if a color like magenta is done then the print will be lacking the pink tones.

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I get everything from Amazon, and currently I've found these to work great:

• Hammermill 80lb Cover (it's very velvety feeling and takes ink well, not super stiff but a good overall cardstock weight). It feeds VERY WELL through the printer.
  
  
• Accent Opaque 120lb Cover I bought 1200 sheets of this. It's VERY stiff board and really adds substantial weight to greeting cards, and takes color very well. The only downside is because it is very thick, every so often the printer won't grab the paper to feed through if you try to pre-load 5+ sheets of it. I have to do 2-3 sheets at a time for the printer to be able to grab it. There's also 100lb as well that's slightly thinner and good for cards and feeds a little better but I got the 120 because I had some weird Amazon coupon to make it much cheaper than the 100.
  
  
  I've also found great color with the other following papers:
  
  
• Hammermill 24# paper Excellent for just daily printing - I found 20# to be very thin but still doable! But love the 24# because the colors turn out nice and smooth.
  
  
• Canon Luster Photo Paper This paper is amazing for photography prints...I'm not too keen on glossy types but this makes the color feel richer and the luster texture helps to hide any small jpeg articfacting or imperfections in the file/print.

-ponytails work great in a pinch to keep cabinets shut when you're at someone's house that isn't child proofed. Works particularly nice with knob handles.
-baby carriers can be used on chairs when you're out and about for a makeshift child belt to keep your kiddo in place.
-if you're worried about your child who recently discovered opening doors escaping, switch the door handle so the lock is on the other side of the door and hang a key inside up and out of reach.
-old phones work great as mini tablets! Never trade in those suckers, they are freaking gold! Plus, they're pocket sized. 😉
-create a distraction kit for when you're out and about so dinners or whatever are a breeze. Right now for our three and four year old it consists of a tablet (or old phone) loaded with learning apps and downloaded movies, colored pencils, a pad of paper, and kiddie headphones.
-if you're truly desperate for a lap belt at the store and the carts at the store don't have one, dog leashes work nicely. Strap it around them like a normal lap belt and clip it or tie it behind them on the cart.
-if your kid falls asleep at the store, get a dog bed or soft bath mat for the bottom of the cart. Bam, travel bed.
-snag a snack for the kids when you get into the store and just buy it in your way out. Chips or pretzels do great with mine. They feel like they get a treat and shopping is easier for me. Win win.
-water baby carriers exist in both mesh and bathing suit materials. Definitely worth it to have when you're going to the beach with a baby. Especially if your baby has an older sibling you'll be chasing.
-sock, plastic bag, sock works awesome as waterproof winter gloves that are harder for kids to take off. Also, plastic bags over the socks in boots work nicely to keep their feet dry too.
-if your kids like coloring on the walls, try hanging up large sheets of paper on the wall so they have a safe place to do it. They sell huge rolls on Amazon like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00006IDXW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_zz6aBbABBYF4A
-laminate activity pages so they're reusable with dry erase marker. (You can find tons of free work sheets online to print off)

For a matte, super thick feel I have used Accent Opaque Cover Smooth 100# White, my printer is able to pick up the thickness, sometimes I need to hand feed it but with clean rollers it’s fine.

I also really like Hammermill Smooth 100lb Cover, it’s got a nice velvety smooth feel to it, not as mega-thick as the Accent Opaque but still a substantial card thickness to feel elegant. This one tends to feed a little easier in my printer the Accent Opaque is very very sturdy.

I did try a single sided gloss once...the only inkjet compatible one I was able to find is from Desktop Publishing Supplies here though in the end I just really liked the look that a matte card gave and because the papers I use were thick already, the quality seemed to be very good without it needing that shiny look on the outside.

I fold everything by hand - since my file is set up 2/page I actually fold the whole letter paper in half (vertically) once by hand, then press the crease down more a second time using a bone folder, and then trim the folded sheet into two cards so the edges aren’t as staggered.

If they're available on Amazon where you are, check out Ohuhu markers. They're so much cheaper, and work perfectly fine. You can start with them and replace colors you find you use a lot with more expensive brands as they run dry. If you have Tiger stores near you, they also offer small packs of alcohol markers that are worth trying out. The cap colors don't match the ink inside well, but both these brands work fine. I can't really tell the difference between them and my Copics, except they don't have brush nibs.

For paper, smooth is good. Don't use sketching or watercolor paper. Bristol is great but can be expensive. I like high quality printer paper for everyday work/practice. Look for "cover stock," which is a bit heavier and should be smooth. This is my favorite, though you may need to try a different brand since I'm in the US.

Copics are going to be very different from microns.

First off, the kind of paper you pick matters. I recommend either this specific hammermill or cardstock. Paper size doesn't matter, though smaller will save ink.

You don't want paper with a tooth, you don't really want marker paper, and you don't want sketchbook. You want completely smooth, even paper, with enough absorbency to not bleed, but not enough to soak all the ink out of your marker, hence the previous recommendations.

Secondly, there are blending families. I'm gonna give you a few examples here. Colors 2-3 steps apart will blend very easily. Like... N1, N3, N5, N7. Or RV11, RV14, RV17, RV19. If you try to blend RV11 and RV19 without a step in between, you'll have a hard time and it's not gonna look good.

Similarly, it's harder to blend colors of different color families. But if you keep the intensity close, it'll work (last number in the color name). Another example of what I mean.

See how the V09 doesn't really blend at all with the YR04? 4 and 9 would be a hard sell on their own, but with them being complementary colors, it's nearly impossible.

To blend, you put down your first (lightest) color ONCE. Then, for subtle blending, you go over some of that area again with the same color. Areas with 2 coats will be slightly darker than ones with just one.

To blend two colors, again put down one coat of your lightest color. Then take the slightly darker color and put it adjacent to the first one. Then, where they meet, go over the darker color with the lighter one. This will move the ink around and result in a blend. You can keep alternating until you have a mix you're happy with, though paper will reach maximum saturation sooner or later, at which point more layers won't do much.

Copics aren't really used to gently put down colors next to each other and leave a lot of white. If you're gonna leave white spots, have the adjacent color be either a 0000, 000, or end with a 0 or 1.

Then layer, layer, layer. Don't want till the first color is dry. Blend it while it's still wet. You almost always want to work with two colors at a time. Hope that helps!

Edit: note that I didn't push my examples to full blend. The strokes are still fairly noticeable in some. You can do circular motions to avoid having the strokes show, or go over them enough times to get more even color.

You can get aluminum channels with frosted covers to mount your LED strips in.

https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B01LL2SLME/ref=psdc_14325671_t2_B01MYF2P2I

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Here is an alternate idea I have been kicking around for a while for creating a cheap and easy LED strip light diffuser, but I have never tried it: The materials are parchment paper and 2" wide clear packing tape. You can probably find both of these at your local grocery store. You will also need a hand saw and a miter box.

Remove the parchment paper roll from its cardboard package and make a pencil mark one inch from the end of the roll. Holding the roll gently but firmly against one side of the miter box, cut off the end of the roll at the mark using a hand saw (avoid power tools for this operation). Unroll the resulting one inch wide roll of parchment paper and secure in place over the LED strip with a length of 2" wide clear packing tape.

Are you saying nothing more than luck for which slabs do or don’t get them during the encapsulation process, or nothing more than luck if someone ships a slab definitely without rings, but when it arrives it might have rings?

I’m curious about the latter option. I’ve sold a few slabs on eBay and if they have rings, I explain it in my item description. I’m wondering if eBay sellers just try to be deceptive and not mention them with pics taken at just the right angle to hide them, or if the rings can somehow form during travel.

My method for removing them: depends on what you mean by newer cases. I’ve only seen a few from 2018 or newer so far, but those seem much tighter than any I’ve seen before. My method below did not work for a 2018 slab I had that had so little give I was too nervous to proceed.

I don’t know if it has a name, but I go the knife/paper route, which I’ve seen people complain about online and how it can cause streaking. Key difference for me, though, is the quality of paper used. Regular 20 lb is far too flimsy (can tear easily) and it’s coarse. Card stock resolves the flimsiness, but too thick and increases the likeliness of streaking since its also pretty coarse. I looked at several different types of paper and finally settled on a 110 index sheet that is soft, flexible and very smooth. I’ve used it on 5 different slabs now and it’s left no streaks. Beyond smaller rings reappearing in one slab (though much less noticeable than before), I’ve had no issues.
Paper: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B006P1EQXA?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

If you try this method, make sure the knives are thin and blunt, and most importantly, test on a relatively cheap slab before diving in. It was damn nerve-wracking my first try, but the last one I did about a week ago was super smooth.

EDIT: Didn’t actually explain the method. The bottom of the slab can usually be gently pried open a mm or so with your fingers. Do this very gently and use one thin, blunt knife to keep the case “open”. Push it gently as far to one corner as possible without straining the seam of the case too much. Use another knife on the opposite corner in the same way. Don’t try to insert the knife too far into the case. You only want a few mm in, and the knife should definitely not be getting close to touching the comic. Measure the distance between the two knives and cut a strip of paper that width hotdog style. Carefully slide the paper into the gap and aim it at the rings. Take the paper out, gently remove the knives, and the rings should be gone. Note that you may have to repeat if a ring reappears. One slab I tried this on had a ring that reappeared, but a second try erased it and hasn’t come back since. Again remember: gentleness and HQ paper are the key!

modular designs often work well with small sheets and are nice to hang up with tassels or decorative knots

plain printer paper is fine; but you can also print/paint designs onto the paper before cutting (im sure theres websites with free designs if you arent inclined to create your own) or cheap single colour (i love this paper for small simple modular units)

I am sorry, I hope you have a great day today! :3

Well I can see you like origami so here is some cute paper so that you can venture on to bigger projects than stars, which i love but can't make!


Here is a storage box to keep all of your paper organized and safe!

Thank you so much for your thorough reply! This was immensely helpful; I never knew that there was so much to learn about paper! 110lb Index it is!

I'll be sure to get a rotary trimmer as well.

Is there much of a difference other than sheet capacity between the rotary cutter you recommended and a cheaper one? (e.g.http://www.amazon.com/Fiskars-Titanium-SureCut-Trimmer-01-005454/dp/B003SLC3IU/ref=sr_1_11?ie=UTF8&qid=1457236889&sr=8-11&keywords=rotary+paper+trimmer)

Also, sorry for all the paper questions, but do you think 80lb cover paper would be better? Or is that coated and therefore unsuitable? http://www.amazon.com/Hammermill-Color-Digital-Sheets-120023/dp/B000J0C47S/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1457238143&sr=8-1&keywords=80lb+cover

Thank you for your time!

Last time I printed business cards it was with a 405 yellow and a 300 yellow screen with Speedball acylics. Printed 8up on a letter sized 110# smooth cover (Classic Crest ). You need to air dry the sheets but you can set up a fan to speed that along. Pretty straight forward but also pretty expensive when you can get 500 cards printed for under $20 USD now a days.

I'm not the best artist...and when I do artistic things, I use acrylic paints, however, in order to give you first-hand advice, I did my drawing using an ink pen. [Here is it] (http://i.imgur.com/tFoet3O.jpg).

Now that I've drawn with ink, I can for sure tell you that you're going to want a fine-tip pen. Maybe [this one] (http://www.amazon.com/Sakura-Pigma-Sensei-bullet-fiber/dp/B00DUGZE7A/ref=sr_1_5?s=arts-crafts&ie=UTF8&qid=1415657750&sr=1-5&keywords=fiber-tip+pen). It has a fiber tip which is good according to my research.

I also like to keep a Moleskine notebook handy for ideas and doodles.

Oh, and based on my little foray into pen and ink, you're going to want [bleed-proof paper] (http://www.amazon.com/Paris-Paper-For-Pens-9X12/dp/B0007PC9C0/ref=sr_1_1?s=arts-crafts&ie=UTF8&qid=1415658228&sr=1-1&keywords=bleedproof+paper) for sure!

Happy drawing :)

>I watched the video tutorial but how do we stick the card together? It looks like on this max c you painted most of the areas. Wouldn't that make it more difficult for it to stick to the blank card since most of the adhesive side is covered with paint now?

All you need is the edges to be clear of paint since the edges will hold the rest down. The rest doesn't really matter.

>Also for the gold lettering is there a specific link? I only found these two on amazon: Therm O Web Deco Foil (Pack of 20), Gold and Deco Foil, 5 Transfer Sheets, 6" x 12", Gold.

This is the foil I used: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00SW79E0A

>If you commission cards for people can you share them here on reddit as well?

Sure, I'm not going to post my stuff too much because I don't want to spam the subreddit though. People would get bored/annoyed with it eventually.

Yeah, cricut transfer tape is notoriously too sticky. I like this one from Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B073XRLZ6Z/ref=ya_aw_oh_bia_dp?ie=UTF8&psc=1


you can buy different sizes of vinyl, starting with sheets and going up to rolls of different lengths. I started with 12“ x 12“ sheets but now I’ve got about six rolls of 12“ x 5' yard vinyl in colors that I love. And even more rolls of htv. It's an addiction. Don’t plan on making money off of it until you’ve really gotten good at it, it takes a little while to become an expert.

I do a similar thing, but I use Kraft Tex fabric that I got on clearance at a local craft store. It's like paper, so it takes up less room in the pocket, but it's also like fabric and so is waterproof. I've even washed and dried it to give it a cool weathered look.

I loved the linked write up. I have cut up Avery notebook dividers, leather, and more from my tinkering of a pocket notevook before I settled on this one!

As a buyer, I would except the same thing as on Amazon, where marking as a gift means they omit the price from the packing slip.

As a seller of non-bulky items, I offer free kraft paper gift wrapping on all of my items & it delights gift-givers (and a giant-ass roll of kraft paper is only $20 )

Scrapbook Paper

Every time I go into the local dollar store there are 2 cashiers that are always happy and smiling and always have something nice to say. I use coupons so I’m in there quite a bit and they are so polite and welcoming.

Hey dude. There is a lot of promise in here. I think it would be worth getting it yourself some better art supplies!

You might really enjoy markers. There are smaller sets of this line, but they are a decent quality Chinese cheap brand.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07L9YRB17/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_xryJDbVD3BNH1

And some affordable paper to go with

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00SN0PI88/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_ltyJDbRSN8XMQ

Also get yourself some good pens. I like microns.

Anyways you commented on my post so I thought I would chime in on some of your work. Keep drawing my dude

All feed back is appreciated. I forgot to mention this can be targeted by income, so I'll likely hit the neighborhoods $60k plus, in addition to near where I live.

Also, for those of you new to printing, etc. DO NOT USE A INK JET!!! That's like 0.30 per page. Instead use a laser jet, such as this:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008ABLJHE?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s02

The used one is $100 and will come with ink for like 1,000 pages or more. Once you get the refill ink, like from here:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00D5Z46ZW?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s03

That $100 can make about 3,500 pages or $0.03 / page. For this type of thing, regular paper is fine, but you can also use a nice card stock (about 0.60 / page vs 0.02 / page)

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006P1EQXA?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage

Stole ideas from this and this. For parchment paper I used this and this and coffee stained them. It was super easy to make and my players really enjoyed it.

I’d recommend using carbon transfer paper. Tape your printed out initial pattern over a piece of transfer paper to the workpiece, and then trace all lines with a pen or pencil. Then you’ll have a pencil outline on the workpiece you can go over with your burning tool. Hope that helps. Happy burning

Carbon transfer paper

My secret to not having this issue is I use parchment paper for everything.parchment paper on amazon

I line all my pans with this whether I am baking wings, potatoes, cauliflower, yam fries etc. Line bread pans and you never have to waste your time on clean up.

To clean this pan oven cleaner might do the job, but make sure you have good ventilation that stuff seems quite toxic.

Amazon has really cheap options for 1000 sheets of paper; but like @ilykeurface mentioned, best get more sheets - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001J2YI7E/ref=sr_ph_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1487343266&sr=sr-1&keywords=1000+paper

I usually buy that size to make kudusamas too

Like most I order from amazon. For anything modular there is a set of 1000 2,75 inches square. 6 is good for almost anything else, but for something super complex I will make it from a roll of parchment paper or craft paper.

Use the song "We Didn't Start the Fire" to create a timeline of historical events and how those events shaped popular culture at the time. You could make it look really great visually if you use one continuous roll of paper and you could include lots of little known details and obscure facts.

I found this I haven't bought it myself but i think its pretty good quality, and prettig cheap too (€10 for 1000 sheets).

Judging by the picture, it looks like these might have the glue, but I'm not sure. The reviews look good, and it's a decent price for 1000 sheets.

Edit: oops, forgot link :)

Some ink splatter experiments using J. Herbin 1670 Emerald of Chivor on cheap paper because I can't afford Tomoe River right now. (Entertainingly, this paper isn't nearly as cheap now as it was when I bought it 5 years ago!)

Written using a Noodler's Niponset with the music nib. This isn't technically a caligraphy pen, but I hope it's still appropriate for this subreddit. :-)

The splatter was done using an ink syringe to spray a tiny (<1 ml) amount of ink onto the page, then blowing on it with my mouth, then dribbling a tiny bit here and there to fill in gaps before blowing again.

As an aside, I was able to control the spray/mess by cutting the bottom off a 1.5L bottle of water and setting it on the paper, then doing the spray through the mouth of the bottle. No need for aprons or cleaning off your desk!

Fun stuff. Unfortunately, the sheen of this ink is very poor on paper like this, but it still turned out reasonably well. Rhodia, Clairefontain, or Tomoe River tends to work much better for fountain pen ink than Paris Paper for Pens, but I don't have any of those without dots or grids right now.

I bought these from amazon...
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001J2YI7E?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_image

And just created 23 boxes in order of the shades :) there are 50 colors plus gold and silver but I just picked out the most vibrant ones. The 👍👍

Alright I am home now.

These are the needles I bought and have lasted me 6 tattoos (5 of which took two sessions). There are some in there I will probably never use but you never known when you decide to do some fat lines and need those 9rl's.

Washing your hands is nice but gloves are another layer of safety on top. Unless you are going to the doctors soon to swipe some.

This is the ink I use. Small but has lasted me.

Dettol for stencil transfer paper because I am not about to fuck up the bad on something that is gonna stick around for a bit. I also just have alcohol wipes at home from a kit, dollar store plastic shot glasses I wash, and paper towels to complete my kit. Should set you back 50 but last you through a ton of stick and pokes.

Item

Show this gift some love. Thanks for the contest.

I use this to carry an assortment of 6x6 and smaller papers around with me, as well as a small pair of exacto scissors and a bone folder thing. It all fits inside as long as I only keep like 300/400 pages in it. It's become very handy and I feel like I take it with me everywhere just in case I'll get bored.

For larger papers or if I'm just grabbing a few, I'll take one of my daughters hardcover books and put them inside of it. Or for some of my 4x4 or 3x3 paper, I'll just put it inside of an old Christmas card or something and put it in the inside pocket of my jacket lol.

I recently got some transfer tape from Frisco Craft that I really like. They offer different variations of transfer tape (they'll send you a bunch of samples with your first order). I just ordered through Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073XRLZ6Z/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 That's just a roll of transfer tape without backing. I find it really easy to work with actually. But it's not the paper kind; I see you had gotten the paper transfer tape.

As paper bags are getting harder to find, I would make the brown bag out of shipping paper. I would iron the needed creases in it, cut the jagged edges. Once I get it like I wanted and soak it in epoxy to give it rigidity. I would add the eye brows by using paper clay, and soak them in epoxy once they are sanded and shaped. Eyes could be done with some large sunglasses or even plastic ornaments either painted or covered with a thin black fabric, and balsa strips used for the ear pieces. I would buy a cheap bicycle helmet and mount it to the inside of the bag for comfort and to help ensure it does not slide about.

yup something like this

https://www.amazon.com/PFT-Transfer-Stencil-Sheets-Pirate/dp/B0036WEBLI/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1484869140&sr=8-4&keywords=tattoo+transfer+paper

i like using it to make sure the size and whatever are going to fit body lines and such

My favorite dinosaur is made of tiny origami paper. Thanks for the contest!

Thank you so much. I'll poke around to see if it's good for printmaking techniques! Here's what I found: https://www.amazon.com/Classic-Crest-Cover-Solar-White/dp/B000JFDE5Y

Sometimes amazon ships using packing paper instead of the air bubble protectors, I save those and use them as wrapping paper.

And here’s a 30” roll on amazon for $20
https://www.amazon.com/Kraft-Paper-Roll-150ft-Brown/dp/B01N6584SD

these ones are the ones I've been using, been working pretty well !

This cardstock works great with copics.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00SN0PI88/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_jKIvDbR069HHH

This has been hanging out on my list for awhile! . Perfect 5

Ooooohhhh you know what, I want to go with something silly, but i really need more paper. Its in my list called "art things".


Thank you so much! I had so much fun. :3

i used whatever was cheap on amazon, but it seems like it's not available anymore https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073XRLZ6Z/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Lol, that's awesome :)

LPT: You can get a long, long roll of brown paper off Amazon, which you can cut into 6' strips that your kitties will *love* to death, at which point you can recycle that piece and cut them a new one, https://www.amazon.com/Paper-Wrapping-Shipping-Covering-Recycled/dp/B0788YRV9V

I use transfer tape for making printed shirt with vinyl. It might be something you can use. Probably not going to be very pretty.

I made it out of washable craft paper! I plan on doing a leather one, so I've been test-driving this one out for almost 4 months. It has held up REALLY well and is even thinner than leather.

What I used: http://www.amazon.com/krafttex-TM-Roll-Natural-Publishing/dp/1607057506

Frisco Craft 4336883150 Transfer Roll 12" x 50 Feet Clear Lay Flat | Application Tape Perfect for Cricut Cameo Self Adhesive Vinyl for Signs Stickers Decals Walls Doors Windows https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B073XRLZ6Z/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_.gGvCbMP2KCR3

I have been using this roll for about 6 mos and have yet to be disappointed.

This is the exact paper I used: http://amzn.com/B000GTSF1Q

However I bought mine in store from Kinokuniya Bookstore in NYC. They also sell it at Pearl River Mart in SoHo. They're like $2.50 there.

For large pieces, you can get a roll of white paper and hang it somewhere in the shop. Roll some paper down, put the furniture on it, and roll it back up when you're done. If it's larger furniture, you can get a 107" roll. Smaller furniture like end tables can get away with smaller rolls.

http://www.amazon.com/Pacon-57015-Fadeless-Paper-White/dp/B00006IDXW

Put a wood dowel through and some hooks on the wall and it's done.

Example:

https://pixc.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2015/09/Furniture.jpg

Ok, there's a couple ways to do this that don't require Etsy.

If you're a DIY-er, You can head to Amazon and pick up some thermal foil After you get that, all you have to do is make your art print in whatever font you want (if you're not comfortable designing it yourself, head to your local printshop). They then can print it via a laser printer. You then just lay your foil over the top and do a medium heat iron over it (or run it through a lamination machine without the lamination strips). The foil then will stick to your laser printed words but nothing else. This option is your cheapest and easiest since you're paying for materials and that's it. It's REALLY simple to do.

The other option is to contact an actual print shop and ask them to do some foil embossing - but this is def. going to be pricier.

And the 3rd option is doing it how you are doing, looking for a vendor to do it... Which would be the mid-range for your pricing, but can prove difficult finding a vendor who will do everything custom for you... It looks like this person does it and has decent reviews... but I'm not sure what size you're looking for.

This post is pretty old, but I think this is what you need:

https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00HX2JESC?psc=1

It is generally called Carbon Paper it seems, but the reviews confirm it is comprised of graphite.

I want to print text on a textured background similar to D&D rulebooks. Is it better to include that texture in a PDF file for print, or to print on paper that already has this appearance? This book will have images printed inside as well.

I've seen a couple examples on Amazon, but not sure about the quality of them.

I got it 2 years ago from Amazon! This is the brand, though, not sure about size and cost: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00006IDXW/ref=mp_s_a_1_7?qid=1449545190&sr=8-7&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70&keywords=white+wrapping+paper&dpPl=1&dpID=21KImFTrVuL&ref=plSrch

This is really good paper for copics:
http://www.amazon.com/Hammermill-Color-Digital-Sheets-120023/dp/B000J0C47S

Cheap, nice and smooth, and the pages are almost as thick as cardstock too. It's 80lb paper, so it absorbs a hell of a lot of marker and lets you do a lot of layering.

Not quite an inch, but close enough?
Origami Paper- Mini Mini Set of 500 Sheets 1-1/16 Inch Square
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000GTSF1Q/ref=cm_sw_r_an_am_ap_am_us?ie=UTF8

The paper he used is 1-1/16in^2 , so yes, tiny.

https://www.amazon.com/Borden-Riley-Paris-Paper-White/dp/B0007PC9C0/ref=sr_1_15?keywords=pen+and+ink+paper&qid=1558857056&s=gateway&sr=8-15