(Part 3) Reddit mentions: The best audio amplifiers

1. I would look at the Orb Booster $160 or the SMSL Q5 Pro because of the optical inputs (can use with a TV later on) and the remote. I also think they have tone control and a bit more power.
   
   
2. If you really want powered speakers go for it but I'm not the guy to help with that. I'm not a fan of powered speakers. Also if you go down that route you won't need the amp upgrade as they have their own amp.
   
   
3. I would consider getting an AVR if you can fit in your space. Something like this Denon S510BT refurb $180 would be a good option. Not only would you be getting more power but you would also get all the benefits of an AVR. (Better speaker control, room correction, better bass management, more inputs...)
   
   Here is a sample system that I would look at
   
   AVR/Amp - I've already linked some options for you to look at.
   
   Sub - I would honestly keep what you have but get the sub cable that I linked above.
   
   Speakers - Here is where it gets fun. Lets say you spent $150-200 on an AVR/amp you'll have about $300 to play with. Lets look at some speakers in that range.
   
   

• Boston Acoustics A26 $120 ea - I think these are on sale so think quick This is a good price for the A series
  
  
• Boston Acoustics CS260 $160 ea - Towers that are in your budget. If you have space consider these.
  
  
• Polk RTi A1 $205 - The RTi's were decent Polk offerings
  
  
• Polk S20 $300 - New line they sounded decent in the store. Worth a look
  
  
• Cambridge Aero 2 $220 or SX60 $230 - These are on sale currently
  
  
• RBH R5Bi $225 - great sounding books at a reasonable price.
  
  
• Affordable Accuracy monitors $210+SH - another internet direct company with really good books at a fair price.
  
  If you don't have stands consider getting a pair. Having speakers at the right height will really help out the sound. Also getting them further apart can really help out too. stands help you accomplish this.

Ehhh...tube stuff really only get to a "better" level when you start closing in on the $200 mark. And that's with mediocre Chinese stock tubes. That LB T7 is about the best you'll do until you get up to the much better, but over 2X the price, Little Bear T2. The T2 is a pure tube preamp, which means it has a driver tube for gain, and not a solid state gain portion. Many purists feel this gives you the best sound. As a bonus, it accepts both 6N2 and 12AX7 tubes, which gives a large variety of tubes to switch or "roll" between to find the sound you like. The differences are subtle, but noticeable.

https://www.amazon.com/Nobsound-Little-Vacuum-Preamplifier-Turntable/dp/B074GXGSNY/ref=sr_1_6?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1538492861&sr=1-6&keywords=tube+phono+preamplifier

I'd honestly go with the T7 and a set of these;

https://www.amazon.com/Riverstone-Audio-Matched-Fully-Tested-Platinum/dp/B01BFJDTW0/ref=sr_1_cc_1?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1538493072&sr=1-1-catcorr&keywords=5654+tube

Total for the preamp and the upgraded tubes comes to $73, but, IMO, it's a much better sounding combo than the Pro-Ject.

Those are considered excellent tubes of that kind, and are quite cheap because the military had a HUGE surplus made at one point. I'm occasionally running a pair in a Little Dot Mk2 preamp, and they are very good sounding.

But it really comes down to what you want. Tubes can get expensive when you start getting really deep into them. They tend to attract the sort of person who can always see something different, and maybe better, around every corner. You may be more into getting a sound and locking it down, and then leaving it alone. YMMV.

I myself am running a Little Bear T11 with a combo of NOS tubes that ended up costing around $40 each for 3 of them. I also cracked it open to replace the coupling caps with vintage Russian paper in oil caps. I'm totaling a little over $400 on it at this point, and that's from a $220 stock preamp. It sounds amazing, but it's not for everyone.

No.

You'd be much better off buying a pair of monitors. Tannoy Reveal 601P cost around $250 a pair. I'm not going to suggest they're the best studio monitors, but they outperform their price by a long shot. I think they're the best bet for under $500.

Part of the problem is that you can't use an EQ to make speakers give you more of frequencies they don't produce, and you can't really use an EQ to make speakers do a better job with frequencies they handle poorly, aside from boosting or limiting somewhat. For example, if a speaker gives you muddy mids, boosting them with an EQ just gives you boosted muddy mids.

The idea of studio monitors isn't just to give you "flat" audio. The idea is to give you the best possible unaffected representation of the audio.

I realize $250 a pair may seem expensive if you're comparing them to $75 speakers, but the ability to properly hear what you're working with is priority #1.

You're also going to want an amp that isn't a cheap receiver (because a receiver is going to color your audio). You can find a real bargain with something like this Topping amp. Yeah, it says it's a "digital" amp, but that's not what they mean by digital (they're referring to the class of amp, also known as a T-amp. This one uses a TA2020 board). I replaced a rack mount pro studio amp with something similar to the little amp I just linked to (it has a TA2020). Those suckers are astounding.

EDIT: Oh, wow. I didn't realize this forum recommends the Muse M50. Good stuff. That's a T-amp too. I'm not familiar with the chip it uses, but it's the same price and would probably be a good pick (though I'm a fan of the TA2020. I haven't tested them side by side, so obviously, I can only recommend what I'm familiar with. Maybe someone in a recording forum will be familiar with both).

If you want portability, the the Cyrus Soundkey or Audioquest Dragonfly red are your options. I use the Soundkey, and it's brilliant. The soundstage and clarity is vastly improved. Then again my daily drivers are the Audio-Technica ATH M40X. For a DAC + amp, then the Teac AI-101DA. It's a bit pricy, but however it's a good DAC amp. I don't have it, but I have heard mostly positive reviews on it, also Zeos, our legend, has reviewed it himself. If you are on a tight budget, well the FiiO - E10K Olympus, has got you covered. It's a really good amp+DAC for the money. A lot of positive reviews. If you are gaming, the Senhiser GSX 1000 is there. What I she said in here are the best in each section.

Links:

Cyrus Soundkey: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B073RFVHVY/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1520720112&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=cyrus+soundkey

Audioquest Dragonfly red: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01DFMV4NQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1520720178&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=cyrus+soundkey&dpPl=1&dpID=41JaKxrUrfL&ref=plSrch

Senhiser GSX 1000: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01LDTP484/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1520720216&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=gsx+100&dpPl=1&dpID=41ermQbCqAL&ref=plSrch

Teac AI-101DA: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00UGYFWQC/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1520720282&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=teac+ai-101da&dpPl=1&dpID=41dClv7EX-L&ref=plSrch

FiiO E10K Olympus: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00LP3AMC2/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1520720327&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=fiio+e10k&dpPl=1&dpID=41Taa5DTsKL&ref=plSrch

By the way. If you want, buy a fucking pair of Audio-Technica ATH M40X: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00HVLUR54/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1520720404&sr=8-5&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=audio+technica&dpPl=1&dpID=41gFqXe5oBL&ref=plSrch

Zeos found the M40X'S brilliant.

I hope I helped you out, if you have any queries, reply to this comment. Good luck in finding what you want.

The best computer speakers aren't computer speakers. Instead, look at home theater components and small bookshelf speakers - no matter how fancy Logitech's speakers look with swoopy plastic, they still can't compete with a big rectangular MDF box.

Personally, I use and swear by the Audioengine A2+. They're tiny, with an integrated amplifier and seriously impressive sound for the size. If you have the desk space and want a front volume knob, their larger A5+ will give you more bass. Pay attention to the dimensions, they're pretty big. Neither of these will quite match the bass of that big Logitech subwoofer, but their overall sound quality is superior.

You can also do passive bookshelf speakers hooked up to an amplifier, with or without a separate active subwoofer. These could be inexpensive speakers from a pawn shop or garage sale, or a set of new ones from Best Buy or wherever. There are holy wars fought over this stuff and many opinions on the internet about what's "best", but the truth is it won't matter. Even some inexpensive Polks will outclass the Logitech system. You might even be surprised at how good a relic from the 70's sounds, particularly if they're big and have more than a single speaker element.

Now, the Audioengines are good to go right out of the box, but for passive home theater speakers you'll need an amplifier. You could use a home theater receiver, but probably don't have the space for that. Instead, look for a small dedicated amplifier like the very-popular Lepai. I've also been pleased with Pyle's small amps, and you can get a bit more power from them, but the signal-to-noise ratio at high volume isn't the best.

Edit: If you want EVEN MORE amplifier power, I've also read good things about this Sound Appeal amp. Actually, from the reviews I'd say it's a lot better than the others, but I have no firsthand experience. It has more power and less distortion. Definitely worth considering.

There's not really any companies out there that compete with Sonos in this market space, probably because Sonos has it cornered. There's 'cheaper' options that allow DIY solutions. Google Audio Cast or Apple Air Play with an Air Foil app/server.

Sonos is as much about the Eco system than it is about the product. Their products are software based to a large extent, which means with future updates you get new features and options.

Like you, I tried like hell to find something else that was cheaper. The reality is once you get done buy amplifiers and shoehorning technology together you end up with a system that's almost as expensive but doesn't have the same potential.

Invest slowly and Sonos and you will be rewarded with a superb experience. My brother just got a Playbase and loves it because he can listen to the commentators for his soccer games in any room in his apartment. He has three play ones split between his kitchen, bedroom, and bathroom, so no matter where he is he can listen to what's on the TV or, if he wants, some other music.

To get that feature level on anything cheaper, you're going to have to use a custom built app that will require a computer to direct the audio. It probably won't integrate quite the way you want with everything, and again, by the time you get done wiring and or buying all the other equipment you'll need, you might find the cost differential to be surprisingly low.

The closest I got was the following:
$600 12 channel amp

x6 DLNA Receivers, about $35/piece

And then something like airfoil to control everything

The Ampturns off automatically when it doesn't detect any inputs, which is nice. You can bridge channels together if you don't need as many inputs, but there's no way to control that remotely, so you're better off broadcasting the same audio stream to multiple DLNA receivers, which is where you need something like Airfoil.

I also found a Control 4 like box that would would route the audio as well to Airplay devices, but I can't remember for the life of me what it was called. Hopefully this has helped a little.

It depends how much room you have on your desk and what the arrangement will be like.

A pair of Wharfedales would be great for a desk. They're bottom ported, meaning you can place them wherever and you won't have a problem. They have an extremely warm and rich midrange, that makes vocals sound fantastic. 220 if you don't have as much space. You'll lose low end extension though.

If you have plenty of room, Elac Debut B6.2 would be great. They're pretty neutral, and fun to listen to. Plenty of low end extension, and the front firing woofer allows for flexibility where they go.

Getting closer to the top of your budget would be a pair of KEF Q150. Beautiful speakers, and they excel at close listening in my opinion. The coaxial drivers are fantastic. Extreme detail and clarity with these. These are some of the prettiest speakers out there. Someone else just got a pair today

Last but not least, Ascend Acoustics. These are a very neutral speaker. They sound fantastic, everything from the highs to the lows. However, they are a bit large, and they're rear ported, meaning you'll need to move them away from the wall a bit.

With any of these, you'll need an amp. An SMSL SA36 should do the trick.

I think the Wharfedales are a 'safe' bet. They won't kill you with their detail and clarity (which some people don't like). They'll be smooth and relaxing and easy to listen to.

I have KEF on my desk.

I'd take a look at these - not that some combinations of amps/speakers will go over $1K by a little bit, so if it's a hard limit keep that in mind (one will limit the other). Equally, I'm assuming you already have a phono preamp or that your TT has one built in.

Focals (Guy also has bookshelf and sub from Focal too as an alternative option for a similar price)

PSB

Monitor Audio

NHT

For amplifier I'd say Yamaha but if you have to save money and don't need digital in this pioneer should work pretty well also, but you may want an extended warranty based on possible QA issues.

If you want to look cheaper you'll need to surrender the remote.

This Audiosource offers pretty good value. It's worth noting that it may have some slight bass roll-off based on the prior version (roughly 1dB at 20hz), but it will be difficult finding something that even touches it in that price range specifically.

If you go used and up the price you get a bit better performance from this Emotiva. If going this route confirm they have the original purchase paperwork - Emotiva has a transferable 5-year warranty on this which definitely eases anxiety on a $200 used electronic device purchase IME. If not I'm not sure I would buy it, but that's me.

> In the case of a headphone amp these are always integrated with a preamp built into amp. The LD is tubed but not all-tube which requires it to be tube rectified — but don’t worry about that, the output stage is fully tubed so that’s good enough.

Thanks for clarifying that for me!

> You can use any DAC in this scenario just make sure that if it has a volume control that it’s set to max (or -0db) so that there’s no digital attenuation happening. Any DAC will be able to put out at least 1V (usually 2-4V) which is definitely good enough for any amp’s input.

So my current DAC is an external audio/DAC, but isn't the best (Sound Blaster X7 Limited Edition). It also has this undesired built-in pre-amp. If I were to stick with this DAC, what do you think I should do? I can't set it to max output because I think the preamp in the X7 is much worse than the preamp in the Little Dot MK VIII SE headphone amp.

That said, I am now looking at other DACs. The Benchmark DAC3 that I've been looking at unfortunately also has a built-in preamp, but based on the comment from u/banthisbitch56, I will contact Benchmark to see if its preamp stage can be bypassed. I'm also going to be taking a look at these two external DACs from Schiit: Gungnir and Yggdrasil. Neither of these two DACs appear to have a preamp stage, which is good and Yggdrasil seems to be the heavy favorite on sbaf.

> There’s other things you have to manage too. The DAC must have exclusive driver access to your source to ensure bit-perfect audio.

How is that done? Just make sure nothing else is running? Some of my source is on a Plex Pass media server and so I can't control how the Plex Pass software touches the actual media files. (But it's possible though that AP-Linux-V4 solves this for me already - see below.)

With my OPPO media player, it will be easier since I can just use an optical S/PDIF interface and skip the built-in DAC.

> Most DACs require some effort to clean up data connections (Wyrd, Jitterbug, iGalvanic, etc)

I'm already using the JCATS USB Isolator driven off of a SOtM t-USBexp, which I assume is fine. I also have JCATS M12 Switch Gold and JCATS Net Card Femto. And my Plex Pass server is running Audiophile Linux (AP-Linux-V4).

> and clean AC power. The differences these steps make isn’t small.

I've never done this before. I didn't think it would do anything. What is a reasonable power cleaner?

Besides power cleaning, and establishing exclusive access to the source (but see above), do you see anything else I might be missing that could help?

Samson makes some desktop monitors that feature bluetooth input. I haven't really seen any reviews for them yet. The MediaOne

Take a look at reviews for those and get at least the 4" ones. I can't expect the 3" ones would have much bass response.

Everything else listed lacks bluetooth, but you could add a standalone bluetooth reciever to any of them.

The M-Audio AV-40s get good reviews, and the Wirecutter calls them the best computer speakers.

Those are active monitors. They will be good for near field, and the amp inside them is designed with the speakers.

If you go passive plus amp you can upgrade components down the road. Maybe get the Micca MB42X and a Topping TP20, or find a good reciever (70s Kenwood, Pioneer, Marantz, Teac, Technics, etc. are great) for super cheap (0-$20) at a yard sale or thrift store or craigslist and get the Panasonic SP-BS22

You would certainly need an amp for these. A Soundcard is designed to work with active speakers (speakers with an amp built in) some DAC's have an amp built in, other's dont it depends on the model. This and this are examples of small desktop amps that would be suited for a PC. I just use active speakers for my PC, I'm more familiar with Hi-Fi stuff than desktop audio, but it really depends on the specific hardware. that soundcard you linked has a headphone amp, but that can't drive passive speakers. if you're concerned about things like hearing footsteps in FPS games, it's best to stick with a good headset anywho. I hope this was at least a decent jumping off point, i'm not the best at explaining this stuff.

edit: sorry, it's a bit of a misnomer to say that soundcards are "designed" to work with active speakers, it's just that most PC set-ups use active speakers. A soundcard will need an amp. So it's either

Soundcard -> active speakers.
or

Soundcard -> amp -> passive speakers

Unless you need the surround speakers then you should go for an integrated amplifier - you get a lot more for your money.

I would advise that you get the Marantz PM6004, but only if you can get a version made in Japan. The HiFi store where I got mine stopped supplying them after they switched up production to China because the quality dropped so badly. The Japanese ones are superb and are ridiculously cheap right now with the new model coming out (PM6005).

If you can't, a really good back-up is the Yamaha A-S500. I have personally never heard it but it has been highly praised by people whose word I trust.

Others will recommend Cambridge Audio, NAD, Arcam, Onkyo, Denon, Rotel (and possibly Emotiva, which is loved on here).

Edit: I have listened to both the KEF Q100, which was exceptional, and the LS50, which required better amping IMO, through the PM6004. And also, note that subjective reviews are only going to get you so far; they give you an indication as to build quality/reliability but sound quality and preference is a rather subjective thing - you are probably best trying to find somewhere to listen to it yourself rather than taking as gospel everything said about them on the internet.

So, this is not quite as simple as everyone else is making it out to be, but you are on the right track :)

The In-wall bluetooth option you found would work with almost any receiver because the output is standard RCA L/R. You would put the volume knob on the porch and the other one next to wherever you put your Amp and connect the two parts with an ethernet cable through the wall.

For the amp, I usually try to stick with 8ohm (the one you had selected was 4ohm). This Amp would probably due you fine (since you said you will not be blasting music). You would connect that to the in-wall bluetooth adapter using standard red and white RCA cables.

For the speakers, I think you chose well :) but I would avoid using lamp cord in an in-wall/ in-ceiling installation (like others have suggested), especially when you have it in an "outdoor" environment . Buy the stuff that is rated to be in wall. Its tougher and will stand up to the elements over time better than lamp cord would. As for gauge, I would say at least 16-2, if not 14-2 (I ran 14-2 for my outdoor speakers, but would have gone all the way to 12-2 if it wasn't nearly double the price ;P)

For where to put the amp, choose someplace where you can have power for the amp and bluetooth adapter and have access to run an ethernet and two speaker cables to the porch.

Feel free to ask me anything more you need. I've installed my fair share of these systems :)

1. Metal works great - if it's sufficiently well braced. 3mm steel with a lot of internal bracing (little triangles in the corners will go a long way) is plenty strong, and while you'll want to coat it with something to prevent ringing, it should work pretty well. That said, it'd be a huge amount of welding - MDF is a lot easier.
   
2. Upgrading to an amp like this would be a worthwhile upgrade. Alternately, buying a Sure Electronics amp board for cheap and building your own amp enclosure would be a great use of steel...

Here's the problem that I see. You can do this with one amplifier and one Sonos connect, but then you have one source of music. You can play it in ALL of the rooms at once, and control the volume in all rooms at once.

As was said, you can use 8 Sonos connects, and 8 separate amplifiers, but that's going to cost you $2800 just for the connects. For each of these you want to wire together in zones (maybe kitchen and dining room together), you can knock off a Sonos and an amp.

You could use a couple amplifiers and some sort of audio switcher to pick what input goes where, along with a couple Sonos connects, but you would likely have to go to the closet to set things up before hand, and to make any changes. I could see this as 4 amps with 2 zones each, and 4 Sonos connects. You would need some splitters from the Sonos to each amp. Then, before your party, you could set all amps to CD (Sonos 1) so they all play the same thing, or set one to CD and one to DVD (Sonos 2) so you could have two separate things playing.

Something like this might work the best, but I think you'd only have two inputs, and have to flip switches on the back to pick which input goes to which output.

Looking for a little help finding a specific item with my limited knowledge of AV equipment.

I've owned a Behringer UMC22 for the longest time and it IMO performs wonderfully and powers any headphones I have so far thrown at it, but an issue has arisen recently, and it's solely because of my lack of knowledge with AV stuff. I have a pair of PASSIVE bookshelf speakers that I got from the thrift shop that sound super nice but the TWS 1/4" outs from the back of my UMC22 fail to power them well enough to hear them over any other sounds in the room. I'm sort of maybe just looking for an in-line cheap way to amplify the speakers whilst maintaining their audio quality through my audio interface. Any help would be appreciated :D

​

EDIT: would something like this or this be sufficient? I'm not sure I know how many watts these speakers need to perform efficiently

OK, what you want is basically for background music and sound reinforcement. It is possible to do with multiple bookshelves, you just have to get the placement right for your particular room. The easiest would be a ring of speakers around the outside if the room. Floating speakers in the middle space in only a 30x30 room is a bit excessive so for now a ring should work fine. Three speakers per wall, 12 speakers total would probably provide enough coverage. You will want them up relatively high so between 8-10 feet up. Depending on what is in the room and materials used you may have a good deal of unwanted echo so be mindful of that. Multiple speakers playing quietly should help keep that to a minimum but some strategic acoustical treatments may be needed.

The type of bookshelf is up to you. Quality varies and really just depending on your budget. The speakers I list above would all work you just have to come up with an addon mounting solution like brackets (preferably the type you can screw directly into the speaker etc). You would then get a 12 Channel amp like the Dayton to power it all jumping the signal 6xLeft and 6xright. I prefer to keep stereo in jobs like this but some experimentation is needed to determine if you want two entire walls left and the others right or if every other speaker should alternate for the best effect.

THIS! In fact, I have you ZeosPantera to thank for turning me into this SMSL amp/DAC. I'm not much of a gamer these days, but I just played though The Last of Us using the SMSL SD-793 II/HD598s and it was the most immersed I've felt in a game in a long, long time. I just plug a TOSLINK directly from my PS3 into the SMSL and the sound quality is fantastic. $60 is a cheap price to pay for excellent audio from a PS3/PS4 and it's been working great for me.

Here's a link to the SMSL SD-792 II on Amazon where I found it the cheapest and directly from the manufacture, SHENZHENAUDIO. Plus, if there's a problem with it upon arrival and you need to return it, dealing with Amazon is a lot easier than someone on ebay that's shipping from Hong Kong: http://www.amazon.com/SMSL-SD793-II-PCM1793-DIR9001-amplifier/dp/B00A2QLQTQ/ref=aag_m_pw_dp?ie=UTF8&m=A2Q0JVLI22BSVA

Hey all,

Video editor here, my sweet old school Ashly amp I was gifted at an old studio I worked at is giving me issues and I'm in the middle of a big series and I need to be able to push to my two passive R-51M Klipsch monitors in my suite asap and don't have time to poke around trying to fix my old amp. I'm a video editor, not a high-level audio guy so I honestly just don't have a full grasp on this stuff so I figured this would be a good place to find some help!

These are the specs for the two speakers (I do 95% of my audio editing on headphones but my producer needs to hear through the speakers when we're reviewing): https://f072605def1c9a5ef179-a0bc3fbf1884fc0965506ae2b946e1cd.ssl.cf2.rackcdn.com/product-specsheets/R-51M_Spec-Sheet_v01.pdf

This is an amp I'm looking at to just get as a stop-gap until I can get my other amp worked out: https://www.amazon.com/TDA7498E-Audio-Amplifier-Receiver-Integrated/dp/B077GWVHHN?ref_=fsclp_pl_dp_9#customerReviews

As I said, I'm no expert on this stuff, will this amp restrict the quality I get out of my speakers? I'm in a fairly small suite, volume will never be blasting so don't worry about that, I just need them to have power and I sure would like to retain the quality that they offer, any thoughts? I'm very green on high-end audio hardware so I'm sorry if this is a stupid question, but I'm happy to learn and would love some advice / recommendations!

Thank you for the excellent info.

> ceiling speakers or bookshelf speakers?

Likely a combination of ceiling/bookshelf/tower speakers, depending on the room. No video is necessary; this is strictly an audio system, so it looks to me like a multi-channel amp is what I'm looking for.

> you can skip the amp altogether if you want to get active/powered speakers

I looked at this, and have looked at Sonos, but as I understand it, with these solutions, I'll have to either provide AC power to each individual speaker, or use a powered amplifier to power them. Plugging each speaker into a wall power outlet is not feasible, and since I have to purchase a powered amplifier anyway, and running speaker wire is not a problem for me, I'm not sure what I'd gain with a Sonos system over the Chromecast Audio. Any thoughts on this?

Do you have any personal recommendations for powered 6 channel amps?

EDIT: Right now, this seems to be the best option that I can find for a multi-channel amp. I'm sure there are other, less expensive (perhaps), more appropriate options, but I'm having a hard time finding them: Dayton Audio MA1240A

You can use an audio USB adapter, a sound card or an external DAC and headphone amplifier. USB sound cards and DACs must be officially supported by PS4 because there's a common problem with the right and left channels becoming reversed with unlicensed sound cards and DACs.

I strongly advise you to reconsider buying HyperX Cloud II; it has a small soundstage, bad imaging and it sounds very muddy. Soundstage is perceived space and environment of sound. It determines whether the sound is perceived to be coming from inside your head or beyond the drivers and around you. It can be compared to virtual surround sound; both attempt to produce the same spacious, three-dimensional effect. Imaging determines how accurately sounds/objects are positioned.

Two much better options for the same price are Philips SHP9500 with V-MODA BoomPro mic and Superlux HD668B with Antlion ModMic 4. I recommend replacing HD668B's earpads with velour pads from HiFiMAN.

The headphones have a big soundstage, great imaging and good clarity and detail retrieval. I think SHP9500 has better tone quality than HD668B, but HD668B has better detailing. Both have the same sound signature / frequncy response as HyperX Cloud II with the exception of HD668B; it has emphasized highs/treble. Both are over-ear and have solid constructions. The mics have good clarity.

Is there a clever way to convert an rca type connection to a banana plug? I recently switched to a fosi amplifier to save space and it has two outputs for the sub, much like you would see for a right or left speaker. I have a cable to convert from 2 to 1 for the sub but I'm coming up dry when searching for a connector. Can I just cut the rca ends off and strip the wires and treat them like speaker wires? Thanks!

The amplifier I purchased for reference:
TB20A TPA3116D2 Stereo Amplifier 2.1 Channel Class D Audio Amp with Subwoofer Volume Control 2x50W 1x100W Sub Output Super Bass Power Receiver, Treble Bass Independent Adjustment + Power Supply https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077QPTPVW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_LxW3Cb1Z1PSWH

Note that some Creative products sold on Amazon "Sold by Creative Labs, Inc. and Fulfilled by Amazon" are also price matched to the Black Friday deals. Also, late Black Friday sales posting :D

 

Amazing deal on the E-MU XM7 Bookshelf Speakers, which I found good reviews on (at full price):

E-MU XM7 Bookshelf Speakers (Creative/Amazon) - $99.99 ($269.99 - 170, 63% off)


 

Also the X7 USB DAC/Amp (which I've been eyeing for some time) and bundles with the E-MU XM7 Bookshelf Speakers:

Sound Blaster X7 (Creative/Amazon) - $299.99 ($399.99 - 100, 25% off)

Sound Blaster X7 Limited Edition (Creative/Amazon) - $349.99 ($499.99 - 150, 30% off)

Sound Blaster X7 Home Entertainment System (Creative) - $379.98 ($669.98 - 290, 43% off)

Sound Blaster X7 Limited Edition Home Entertainment System (Creative) - $429.98 ($769.98 - 340, 44% off)

Consider exchanging it for the new X version that has some improvements over the older one. Audio Technica LP60X Amazon or Audio Technica LP60XUSB Richer Sounds.

Powered/Active Bookshelf Speakers starting at £99.

Or powered Edifier R1280T or White. Then Edifier R1280DB adds Bluetton.

Or passive speakers:

• Tibo HARMONY 4 , Mordaunt Short M10, Wharfedale Diamond 220, q-acoustics-q3010, mission-lx1-walnut.
  
  Plus amp:
  
  
• SMSL A2 62. 2 inputs and sub out. Or SMSL SA-36A 45.
  
• Or a stereo receiver Cambridge Audio TOPAZ AM5 99.
  
  Speaker Wire, 4 Ways to Strip Wire.
  
  Home Audio Guides: Intro to home stereo systems • Zeos Tutorials, Diagrams and Videos • r/audiophile Guide to Home Audio • Introduction to Audio Components
  
  Speaker Placement: How to position your speakers for great sound and Stereo Music Listening.

There are no compact amps for under 150 that will be enough better than an SA-60 that it would be worth upgrading to. There are few options in that price range.

Here are the basic options....

https://www.amazon.com/Orb-Audio-Booster-Integrated-Amplifier/dp/B017J6K598/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1495813075&sr=1-2&keywords=mini+amplifier&refinements=p_36%3A7500-15000

https://www.amazon.com/Orb-Audio-Mini-Amplifier-Black/dp/B00GOK38OU/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1495813075&sr=1-1&keywords=mini+amplifier&refinements=p_36%3A7500-15000
https://www.amazon.com/Dayton-Audio-DTA-120-Digital-Amplifier/dp/B00HFG3FYA/ref=sr_1_7?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1495813075&sr=1-7&keywords=mini+amplifier&refinements=p_36%3A7500-15000

https://www.amazon.com/Grace-Digital-GDI-BTAR512N-Integrated-Amplifier/dp/B013UCJFSW/ref=sr_1_12?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1495813075&sr=1-12&keywords=mini+amplifier&refinements=p_36%3A7500-15000

https://www.amazon.com/D802-192KHz-Digital-Remote-Amplifier/dp/B00WU6JU9Y/ref=sr_1_34?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1495813229&sr=1-34&keywords=mini+amplifier&refinements=p_36%3A7500-15000

As well as the already stated Q5 Pro and AD18. Are some of these better than an SA-50, for sure. I just dont think thyere enough better than your SA-50 or a full size receiver/AVR/integrated amp or a higher priced mini amp. I would wait and save money for something better if you cant go bigger.

Sure - the amps are [Audio Source 2 channel/4 speaker amps] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ZSEFU94), though I was also looking at the [12 channel variety] (https://www.amazon.com/AudioSource-12-Channel-Audio-Distribution-Amplifier/dp/B004XT6PMQ). I went for the 2 channel because of the cost: I could put 3 effective zones in for half the cost of the 12 channel amp.

The speakers I'm using are [Polk in-wall/ceiling speakers] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00005T3BD), which are a good compromise between cost and sound. One thing I learned - as clean as it makes the room look to have them tucked beside the fan, the sound suffers quite noticeably when the fan is on :/

We've been very lucky with our house, I will say that. 15y/o ranch makes it very easy to modify without much trouble. Don't think I'd ever own a 2-story house again :)

Christ, this thing!?

No comments on the quality of it (since I have no idea and you should probably look at reviews), but unless you're upgrading your headphones at some point soon I can't see how it would be worth it to spend more than 3x the headphone cost on your dac/amp.

Go with the fiio e10k or Fulla 2 or something. Both ~$100 or less and both will drive the shit out of your ATH-M50x's. Honestly you're mostly going to benefit from the DAC imo, since the m50's aren't that hard to drive, though I did own the m50's along-with the fiio e10k and the extra volume from the amp was nice.

edit: By the way the e10k pushes the m50's beyond comfortable listening volume imo

You'll probably want to look into speakers then an amp in that order. Speakers tend to be the most subjective and personal piece of the setup, so get those squared away, then figure out what to drive them with.

For speakers, check out:

• Pioneer SP-B22 ($129/pair)
  
  
• PSB Alpha B1 ($299/pair)
  
  
• Wherfdale Diamond 10.1 ($299/pair)
  
  
• Klipsch RP-160M ($399/pair)
  
  
• Polk RTi A3 ($399/pair)
  
  
• DefTech ProMonitor 1000 ($439/pair)
  
  
• B&W 686 S2 ($499/pair)
  
  
• PSB Imagine Mini ($499/pair)
  
  I'm partial to Bowers and Wilkins myself.
  
  For integrated amps, look at:
  
  
• Pioneer Elite A-20 ($299 on sale right now)
  
  
• Onkyo A-9010 ($299 also on sale)
  
  
• Yamaha R-N301 ($299) or for a bit more A-S301 ($349)
  
  
• Cambridge AM10 ($349 – analog inputs only)
  
  
• NAD C316BEE ($379 – analog inputs only)
  
  
• Cambridge 351A ($399 – USB DAC)
  
  
• Harmon Kardon HK3700 ($349 – USB DAC)
  
  
• Onkyo A-9050 ($399 on sale – includes phono preamp)
  
  
• TEAC AI-301DA ($399)
  
  
• NAD D3020 ($399)
  
  With a simple computer and two bookshelfs setup, I really like the NAD D3020 or its bigger brother, the D7050. The Cambridge 351A is probably one of the better options in this range, however.
  
  Also, you might find you like powered speakers like Audioengine A5+ ($399) and HD6 ($749). AE has a great sound and features a built-in DAC. If you can demo them, see what you think.

I only listen to music, so I have 2 NHT SuperOne 2.1 speakers (150w at 8ohms) https://www.nhthifi.com/products/10658-nht-superone-2-1#specs and I'll get a subwoofer when I see one on sale. My question is about amplifiers. What do I need to properly power them? Also, since I don't need 7.1 channels and multiple HDMI inputs, would something like this be better than the typical big box Onkyo receiver?

Budget: I'm not sure. Hopefully under a couple hundred bucks.

Source: My LG V20 phone. But I suppose I should find something better here as well? But it advertises having a dedicated digital audio converter. I just use Spotify. Some advice here would be appreciated as well.

I run a MX3 but don’t think it’ll drive any of those speakers Well as it’s 35-40 watts per channel and maybe 25 watts Clean......
I would run a receiver but if you can’t then stronger mini amp Like SMSL SA98e but it doesn’t have remote or headphone amp - just an amp. You could run a mini stack - dac/Headphone amp Plus an amp but would be above your Budget at $180-$250ish up to $400ish

PSAudio Sprout II would drive your any of current speakers including towers and is also a dac and headphone amp and remote But runs $599
BUT it’s American Made with Good Quality and Warranty and Support.

https://www.psaudio.com/products/sprout100-integrated-amplifier

I would keep the towers and sell the Rest and get a Sprout II or a ChiFi mini stack..........

SMSL AD18 might drive the Polk 70s but Not to potential. It’s weak point is the headphone amp from what I read...........but will drive Lower ohm headphones

https://www.amazon.com/SMSL-AD18-Bluetooth-Decoding-Amplifier/dp/B01M3ULDG9

.

https://www.amazon.com/DX3-Pro-Headphone-Amplifier-Bluetooth/dp/B07KG9P3X3

Or (no remote)

https://www.amazon.com/Audioengine-D1-Converter-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B006IPH5H2

Or ( no remote)

https://www.amazon.com/Fosi-Audio-Converter-Headphone-Pre-Amplifier/dp/B07G2NQYLX

Plus

https://www.amazon.com/TDA7498E-Audio-Amplifier-Receiver-Integrated/dp/B077GWVHHN

Or

https://www.amazon.com/SMSL-SA-98E-TDA7498E-Digital-Amplifier/dp/B01N19ZHVV


Or

https://www.amazon.com/Dayton-Audio-APA150-150-Watts-Amplifier/dp/B000VKXLBO

All the Chinese made amps overrate the wattage or post max wattage at 4 ohms in distortion level - either way Clean wattage at 8 ohm is usually much lower.......

Or Sell Everything and get the MX3 and Bookshelf Speakers.

MX3 has some quality issues reported - Mine has been Great for 2 months till other day usb/optical quit working - I tried to take it apart to look for bad/cold solder joints but couldn’t get the board out more than 1” so put it back together and it’s working Again ? - Not Sure about longterm use on this thing.......

I took the plunge today and got a set of Sony SS-H3800Ns for $14 dollars. Wooden cabinet with plastic face and 3 drivers, a 5", a 2", and a 1". There were a few others there but they were over 50 years old so I didn't bite.

Now I need an amp to power them. They have rated impedance 6 ohms, a maximum power input of 100 watts, and an "L" symbol. The only amp in the store was way too big thanks to the built in turntable and 8 track switcher.

I know 100 watts is unbearably loud but I think that having a high wattage amp would be convenient for listening with headphones; I keep the software volume at ~5 for headphone listening and it'd be nice not to have to mess with this value when I switch to speakers.

tl;dr part 2:

1. Would any of these amps work with my speakers well?
   
2. Should I get a cheap small T amp, or wait out and try to find a big vintage amp at Goodwill?
   
3. Would I get any benefit from plugging my headphones into the amp? They're already more than loud enough with stock PC sound.
   
   Thanks.
   
   *edit: added tl;dr

Right on, how do you like it? Would it be a good recommendation for someone with no amp/dac?

I have this amp but it's on a shelf under my desk.

Beer is Elysian's Breakbeat IPA

And yeah I know, I'm a sucker for parm lol.

Edit: Forgot the monitor, yeah it's an Acer XR341CK and I absolutely love it. I was going to wait for the Predator when I bought it two months ago but I couldn't justify the extra $600. It's 75hz stock but easily overclocked to 85hz. It was a little hard to get used to the lower refresh rate coming from a 144hz 1080p monitor, but it didn't take too long and the 3440x1440 IPS is sooooooo worth it. I don't think I can ever go back.

It will be easier to add a sub to the MB42X. It is possible to add a sub to the PB42X, but you will only get bass from the left channel (which is usually fine). The PB42X setup will most likely be cheaper though.

If you wanted to do separates, I would get:

MB42X $80

FX502SPRO Amp $68

Franklin (rebadged Dayton SUB-1000) 10" Subwoofer $100

Speaker Wire

You could also get Dayton B652-AIR speakers for $50 to save a few dollars. They will be louder and have a bit more bass than the MB42X. MB42X sounds better overall though.

A cheaper amp is one of these little Nobsound units for $30. The FX502SPRO is leaps better and much more future proof, but if you're trying to stick to your budget, the nobsound isn't half bad.

To connect a sub to either of these setups, you'll use the High Level speaker wire connections on the back of the subwoofer. For the PB42X you would feed the wire that goes to the left speaker through the sub and then to the left speaker. For the MB42X you would run both left and right through the sub terminals.

I'm considering buying a few things that are up on Massdrop right now.

The Teac AI-101DA-B would be a nice USB DAC because it has the main features I want. Multiple inputs, speaker and subwoofer support, and front headphone support.

Is this a good DAC/Amp combo?

I would be interested in pairing it with a pair of Beyerdynamic DT990 600 Ohm black edition on mass drop now or possibly the AKG K7XX's on "sale" for $200.

Is this a good USB DAC, Amp, and headphone setup for ~$400-$450 dollars?

Is there a better USB DAC and Amp pair that has all the features for about the same price?

Thanks for any advice.

I know people don't like the pyle brand because they do make a lot of underwhelming stuff but this little receiver is one of ther good products. It has a Toroidal transformer and an metal faceplate knob's and good binding posts which is unheard of in i's price range. I don't own it but a LOT of people like them. I have a technical pro receiver (conventional transformer inside) that is made in the same factory i guess and it is pretty solid, but it's much too large for what you need. Unless your desk can handle a 18 inch wide stereo receiver. I don't reccomend those $12.00 small class "D" amps because they don't deliver enough juice for my taste in the low end. plus they are disposible

https://www.amazon.com/Pyle-Bluetooth-Amplifier-Streaming-PDA6BU/dp/B01A6ND1LU

I am not super familiar with audio. We're currently using a rack-mounted Bogen C100 (installed by a previous cabling team), but it has been severely overheating. The cabling company came out and looked for shorts and ended up deeming it the amplifier, then they disappeared and haven't returned any calls or emails.


I could replace it with another Bogen, but after looking at through the specs, it appears it's a PA Amplifier? I'm not super familiar with what that means precisely, but the only thing I'm thinking is that it may be underpowered. That being said, it ran successfully for around 5 years with little issues.


It's this model.
https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/540523-REG/Bogen_Communications_C100_C100_Classic_Series.html


It is currently configured in this manner. I don't quite understand the difference with 70V vs ohm options [if anyone could tell me where I can find more information about it, or the search terms, I'd love to learn]
https://imgur.com/tvFPr4h


I'm looking to replace it with an option that could be installed pretty simply. The 70V speaker wire concerns me because I'm not sure what the equivalent is when I'm looking at something similar to the back of the amps I'm familiar with like this cheap Pyle.

https://www.amazon.com/Pyle-Bluetooth-Amplifier-Streaming-PDA6BU/dp/B01A6ND1LU/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=speaker+amplifier&qid=1563821069&s=gateway&sr=8-3


We can spend up to the $335 the Bogen costs. All suggestions would be helpful.

Well, it's not quality, and it's not wireless, but it's what I have currently hooked up to my TV: a pair of Micca MB42's and a Pyle PCA3 amp, right around $110 for both. It's acceptable for what I paid for it, leaps and bounds better than the built in sound on the TV or most speakers marketed for computers.

At that price point you're going to have to accept some pretty severe compromises. You could spend $100 on a Jawbone or something like it, and have wireless (but not that great) sound, or spend about $100 on a setup as above and have decent quality sound, and no wireless.

BTW, I've owned the Klipsch Promedia 2.1's and the M-Audio AV30s, both have had some built in components fail at some point. Hence the recommendation.

Till I'm ready to drop about a grand or more on HT audio equipment, my little setup will do me just fine.

> Behringer ECM8000 vs Dayton Audio EMM-6

There is the UMIK-1 from MiniDSP too that visually looks identical -- the case even matches the Behringer's case -- but the UMIK-1 is USB instead of XLR. MiniDSP also individually calibrates the mics by serial number, so you can grab a corrections file for your specific microphone and with the right software effectively have a perfectly flat microphone.

But yeah, a lot of these companies do just rebadge stuff. Another example is this AudioSource multiroom amp appears to be completely identical to this Dayton amp.

Neither will be the "best" solution, but shooting for the best can seriously damage your wallet.

The E10k will provide enough power and is an adequate DAC as well, so it or the FX Audio DAC X6 are pretty much the least you want with these headphones if you are going to the trouble of buying external components.

I might get a Schiit Magni 3 instead and use the built in DAC of your computer until you can add an external DAC. You'd need the Magni 3 and a cable with a 3.5mm jack and RCA jacks on the other end in order to connect the Magni to your computer. This assumes you aren't getting any extraneous noise from your computer audio right now, like hissing, humming or static. Turn up the volume on the computer close to 100% and control volume to the headphones with the knob on the Magni 3.

A standalone DAC to add later would be something like the Topping D10, D30 or the JDSLabs OL DAC.

I am looking for a decent amp to push my Micca MB42X.

The Muse posted above has a ridiculous shipping date (especially compared to the free 2 day for the rest of my stuff.) Im looking at this Topping but I'm not sure. Two of my friends have the SMSL and they are not pleased with it. I have also considered the Lepai.

How much power do i really need? I live in the dorms so i won't be going obnoxiously loud, but i still want to rock out.

Thanks for any and all help!

So helpful! Thanks so much. I don't recall seeing any volume controls in the walls (I haven't moved in yet, so I can't check right now), but assuming there aren't any, can you tell how Chromecast Audios will allow me to control the speaker volumes in the various rooms? I'll be using Spotify as my music service. Is the idea that I would I have a Chromecast audio for each room (zone)? If so, how does it connect to the whole home amp? Thanks again!

Also, will this work as well as the Dayton? is $100 cheaper.

I have an audio engine D1 that I bought used. It’s a solid piece. It’s a bit pricey retail though.

It’s a dac and headphone amp, so if you just need a dac it wouldn’t be worth the price.

I’ve taken it apart and it’s decent build quality, and I love the chunky RCA connectors.

TOPPING D10 Mini USB DAC CSS XMOS xu208 es9018k2m opa2134 Decoder Audio Amplifier https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07B46KQVP/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_hfqrDbHXBY11M

Easy dac to recommend if it fits your connection needs. Usb powered as well.

personally i would just get one of these guys, its a DAC, headphone amp, has sub out and will power bookshelf speakers.

https://www.amazon.com/Teac-AI-101DA-B-Integrated-Amplifier-Black/dp/B00UGYFWQC


all in a very nice looking and well constructed package. there are some other combo units like this out there, but i am a fan of teac. they just look great and feel so solid. very high quality stuff.


i have this version that doesnt have an amp for external speakers, just headphone amp. http://www.teac.com/product/ud-501/

Moe Audio MOE-SS01 IEM :]

^^not ^^headphones ^^but ^^earbuds, ^^my ^^bad.

It's currently out of stock on amazon, and here's the massdrop (though also* without a price, so hard to make my point).

Going with another example here's the DarkVoice 336SE OTL Headphone Amp for $219.99 + $14.99 shipping on Massdrop and $319.99 on Amazon.

So I don't doubt not every drop is a steal, but I would not say it's "never competitively priced".

Though a small thing, thanks for asking! I don't get to bring up my earbud selection often.

Hope your weekend is going well.

Edit: I've activated the bots D;

TDA7498E 2 Channel Stereo Audio Amplifier Receiver Mini Hi-Fi Class D Integrated Amp for Home Speakers 160W x 2 + 24V Power Supply https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077GWVHHN/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_2ff6CbM4FF7AR

I’ve read good things.

Personally, I went with an older Sony n9000es that I found on eBay for a very good deal and it looks and performs like new. It powers the front 3 speakers so the AVR only has to power the surrounds and atmos speakers. I love the setup so far.

I use the Soundblaster x7 from Creative. It accepts pretty much any audio input including toslink, 3.5, and usb. It can do speakers or headphones. I’ve loved it so far!

https://www.amazon.com/Creative-X7-High-Resolution-Headphone-Connectivity/dp/B00Q3XLIP4/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1541697686&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=soundblaster%2Bx7&dpPl=1&dpID=51YKViaOlJL&ref=plSrch&th=1&psc=1

So if you’re doing a tube hybrid amp and then a phono preamp, why not just get a regular amp and then a tube preamp?


Nobsound Little Bear T7 Vacumn Tube Mini Phono Stage RIAA MM Turntable Preamp & HiFi Tube Pre-Amplifier (Silver) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M7UGWU9/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Zvh0Db58HSG1F

I use one of these with the recommended tube upgrade. The cool thing is it can switch between a phono and just a regular preamp. I currently have a chromecast audio feeding into it and it adds a fun “smooth” distortion.


Riverstone Audio - Tested/Matched Pair (2 Tubes) 7-Pin GE JAN 5654W Fully-Tested Vacuum Tubes - Upgrade for 6AK5 / 6J1 / 6J1P / EF95 - GE 5654W Platinum Grade Pair https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BFJDTW0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_zwh0DbE7NE76J


Still less combined than the project phono and then you can save money on a different amp or better speakers

My setup:

Amp: Little Dot MK II

Pre-amp tubes: 1980's US Military Surplus - General Electric JAN (Joint Army Navy) 5654W

Power Tubes: 1972 Soviet Military Surplus - 6N6P (aka 6H6P) with gold grid


Holy cow, this little amp was worth it. On top of that, upgrading the tubes made the sound so much more better. The little dot's typically come with cheap, modern Chinese tubes that sound pretty lacking. Upgrading the stock tubes is absolutely mandatory if you go with a Chi-Fi tube amp, the difference is so night and day that your partially deaf grandmother could tell the difference.

The audio quality is nothing short of outstanding and the sound signature you get is completely configurable depending on what tubes you use. I highly recommend this guide for deciding what tubes to buy. I chose mine based on the best bassy sound I could get on a budget, and it delivers.

I've had mine for the past year and have been using it with my daily drivers, my Sennheiser HD 429. Today I got a pair of Beyerdynamic DT 880 600 ohm cans in the mail. I can absolutely notice a huge difference between my computer's internal amplifier and the Little Dot, even without an external DAC. There is so much detail in the music that the DT 880's high range becomes nearly painful to listen to. Soundstage also gains a massive improvement.

Mind you, reviews of tube amps are highly dependent on what tubes a user has in their system, so these reviews should be seen as just as much of a tube review as a review of the amplifier itself. If someone is going to review their amp with stock tubes, their story is likely going to be very different.

Overall, I totally recommend the Little Dot MK II, but again, it is mandatory that you swap out the stock tubes.

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/506995-REG/Yamaha_NS_6490_NS_6490_Bookshelf_Speaker_Pair.html

Big 3-way full size bookshelf speakers, excellent value.

http://www.amazon.com/Sound-Appeal-SA-100T-Digital-Amplifier/dp/B00E8ONRBS

Somewhat pricy compared to other entry level amps but excellent value. Delivers a lot of power and will last several speaker upgrade cycles.

I believe the poster is mistaken. With Sonos it's $600 a room or more and it's obsolete in a couple years. With a wired system you can connect the speaker wires to whatever you want.

The reason Sonos is so popular is because of rich people who live in apartments. If you can run your own wire, and put in ceiling speakers, do so.

You're probably going to need an amplifier like this, which has an input for each zone. Then you get a keystone plate and put RCA Keystones in the wall for input and output.

You have several Options from there:

• Buy into Logitech Harmony or the Neeo remotes. Then use their built in scenes with IR control to control your AV equipment's volume. Or your keypad's volume if you're using something like the HTD system.
  
• Sonos - If all the speakers are ran to a central location, then you can connect a bunch of Connect:Amps to each zone, like this.
  
• Amazon Echo:Dot - Seems to have Home Automation control and is its own music streamer. If you connect the output to the input to your whole home audio system, then you can probably figure out how to tell it to do everything.
  
  If you're betting on Amazon updating the Echo for multi-zone, then just connect one to each input for each zone.
  
  If you don't want to wait for that, or if you want to switch between different inputs, you'll want a multi-zone controller. Then the TVs become an input, the Echo becomes an input, the Sonos:Connect becomes an input. You just switch between them with a keypad.
  These types of systems will also route IR to your closet or basement so you can get all of the electronics out of sight.
  Other brands to consider are Russound and Nuvo.
  
  
  

I'm assuming, based on your other responses (and because you haven't specified) that you're hooking this up to a computer exclusively, and that you have limited desk space (meaning that standard bookshelf speakers won't fit). Also, I'm going to assume that you don't have SPDIF or optical connections, since you haven't said that you do.

My suggestion, then, would be:

• Micca MB42X, $80 on Amazon
  
• Nobsound Mini Bluetooth Power Amplifier, $31 on Amazon
  
• AmazonBasics Speaker Wire, $9 on Amazon
  
  At their price and size, the Miccas are great speakers.
  
  The Nobsound was reviewed by Zeos a while back, and he was pleasantly surprised. Note that you can attach the amp to your computer using USB, the 3.5mm jack, or bluetooth.
  
  The speaker wire is there just to remind you to factor that into your cost. You may already have some laying around, or you can probably find some cheaper than that, or in shorter lengths.
  
  Optional:
  
  
• The Nobsound comes with a 12v 5a (12×5=60W) power supply. So you're limited to ~25-30 watts per channel. This is more than enough for desk setups and small rooms, especially given the relatively efficient Micca speakers. But if you find yourself wanting more power, you can upgrade the power supply for around $15-$20.
  
• Banana plugs make hooking up speakers a whole lot easier. Monoprice banana plugs are $10 on Amazon. The only thing to pay attention to here is that most banana plugs will only accept 12 gauge to 16 gauge speaker wire.
  
• Subwoofer. Neither your Logitech speakers nor the Miccas really do low end (under 60 Hz). This enters an entirely separate discussion about price, performance, and what you want out of your setup, though. I will say, though, that with the Nobsound amplifier, you'll need a sub with high-level (speaker wire) passthroughs.

You'll be better of over at r/headphones but if I were you I would strongly consider Beyerdynamic 880s, which are available at 32Ohm as well.

Otherwise, just get a DAC/amp to use with the heaphones. I use this with 250ohm beyers and I'm very pleased.

They don't come up as often, but gaming threads are here now and then. Check out this for an overview of which headphones are good for gaming.

As far as DAC/Amps go, the SMSL 793 is a good budget option if your headphones aren't super hard to drive. If they are, the Opti Modi (or Modi Uber 2) + amp of your choice are a good bet.

You will need a distributed audio amplifier if you wish to have control over what plays in each separate room. Something like THIS will allow you to wire each room to an individual amplifier channel. The volume controls on the wall will then adjust the individual level in each room.

Since this amp (and most distributed amps) don't allow for source switching, you'll most likely wire this into a pre-amp output on the 5.1 receiver that you use in the family room.

If you want to play a movie in the family room, just leave the distribution amp off and no sound will come out of any of the other speakers. If you want to listen to music in the master bedroom, turn the amp on, turn the volume knob up in the master and leave the volume down in the family room.

Hope this helps!

I'm looking for a new amp and I would appreciate help narrowing my search. I just swapped out my Micca mb42xs for a pair of Acoustic Energy Evo Ones in my 2.1 setup. Now my powered sub sounds faint and I have to crank up the gain to hear it.

My setup now is: Laptop -> Lepy 2x20w amp -> Dayton 1000 powered sub =>Evo Ones

The Evos are 8 ohm 100w max so I'm guessing my amp is struggling to power this setup. I'm going to get a new amp so the Miccas and Lepy can migrate to my TV.

This is for a small room and I'm on a low budget, less than $100. Any advice or recommendations would be great. I'm looking at this one as an option.

https://www.amazon.com/TDA7498E-Audio-Amplifier-Receiver-Integrated/dp/B077GWVHHN/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8

The type features you are describing are commonly desired, and the type of device that typically does these kinds of functions is called a 'preamp'. Unfortunately these are usually not inexpensive. The first thing I can think of is an Emotiva XDA-2. It might seem overpriced but once you spend enough time looking around and learning what is available, features, quality, etc. you realize it might be kind of a bargain. I'm not too familiar with the audio world so there may be other similarly-featured preamps (with headphone amp built in as well) out there to choose from, I just don't know the alternatives (do your research, I hope this clarification enables you sufficiently).
EDIT: with a preamp your headset mic won't work though.

Typically more inexpensive solutions such as this SMSL gets some the features you need, but it isn't really a preamp so it lacks your most desired things: the volume knob only controls the headphone amp volume, and it does not have a switch for headphones vs line outs. Also it only has digital inputs (coaxial or optical fiber) but your motherboard probably has at least 1 of those 2 outputs. It's good quality, but again missing many things you want.


With an internal sound card, you could just have the headset plugged into the Front Panel connectors, and the KRKs taking Line Out from the rear - and switch between them via the Windows playback devices IIRC (I have done this for a while with powered monitors and headphones). This seems like the least expensive way to get everything done, while also being able to keep your headset mic functionality. Realistically, if your motherboard's built-in sound chip already has all these features, there's not really a need to spend money on an add-on sound card. Maybe if the on-board has problems such as noise or low output volume, you could try something inexpensive like a Xonar DSX.

This is what I did (if it helps):
For each zone/room I got:

• google chromecast audio
  
• a Pyle PFA300 90-Watt Class T Hi-Fi Stereo Amplifier with Adapter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0071HZ5LE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_1WpjzbPN7X7CE
  
• and an in ceiling speaker (I had them already)
  
  Total cost per room (minus speakers I had already) was about $55. Add a cheap but decent 8 inch speaker ($60-80 for a pair) and your total comes to $85 per room.
  
  This solution gives me the equivalent of a sonos where I can play music in a single room or across rooms.
  
  Hope that helped

Is this Pyle receiver any good for its cost? I'm really not sure the price range i should be looking for, or whether I should only look for used receivers for the best deals.

edit: grammatical/punctual error. Also, thanks for the input, it definitely put me in the right direction.

This is so hard because everything I want is so freaking EXPENSIVE!!!!

But I'll do my best.

All links below will be to items I can get online. No eBay or 2nd hand sales.

My dream cans, Mr. Speaker Ether C - $1,500
https://www.musicdirect.com/mrspeakers-ether-c-closed-back-headphones

Questyle CMA 400i DAC/Amp - $800
https://www.moon-audio.com/questyle-audio-cma400i-dac-headphone-amplifier.html

Fiio Q1 Mk. 2 - $100
https://www.amazon.com/Q1-Mark-II-Native-Amplifier/dp/B0757MH46M

HD 58x Jubilee - $150 (Massdrop)

Dark Voice 336SE Tube Amp - $310
https://www.amazon.com/DarkVoice-336SE-Headphone-Tube-Amplifier/dp/B00CF9JON8

KZ ZST - $20
https://www.amazon.com/Yinyoo-ZST-Banlance-Armature-monitors/dp/B01LZ6Y51W

+1 for better DAC. Look at the Topping D10: https://www.amazon.com/TOPPING-es9018k2m-opa2134-Decoder-Amplifier/dp/B07B46KQVP/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=topping+d10&qid=1567096358&s=gateway&sr=8-3

Output the audio from the Surface pro to this, then take the signal to a DSP like a Dayton Audio DSP-408: https://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-dsp-408-4x8-dsp-digital-signal-processor-for-home-and-car-audio--230-500 if you want to keep it on a budget. This will allow you to split the audio signal and properly tune/time align the audio signal and run everything actively.

You can still control the volume directly on the surface pro by keeping the Dayton signal level at a set volume. Plus side: You can control the DSP functions through the windows app on the surface pro.

I'm looking for the perfect solution to my PC audio needs: a USB DAC+amp (stereo) with both subwoofer and headphone outputs. I have a powered sub with a coaxial input and no crossover. I have unpowered speakers.

Basically I want a cheaper Teac Al-101DA, or if the SMSL Q5 Pro had a headphone out. Less than $200 would be great, any thoughts? I'm open to more than one piece as long as it still fits the budget.

For $200 you could go in a couple of different directions. Basically, either a decent entry level AVR with a pair of cheap bookshelf speakers, or a cheap stereo amp with a pair of decent entry level bookshelf speakers. If you could bump your budget up to $300 you could get a decent AVR and a decent pair of speakers. (Decent is relative, but I'm using it to mean a step up above "cheap".)

Examples:

Decent AVR and cheap bookshelf speakers.

• Denon AVR-S540BT - https://www.accessories4less.com/make-a-store/item/denavrs540bt/denon-avr-s540bt-5.2-ch-x-70-watts-bluetooth-a/v-receiver/1.html
  
• Polk T-15 speakers - https://smile.amazon.com/Polk-Audio-T15-Bookshelf-Speakers/dp/B002RJLHB8/
  
  Cheap stereo amp and decent bookshelf speakers.
  
  
• Example cheap amp - https://smile.amazon.com/Power-Home-HiFi-Stereo-Amplifier/dp/B0071HZ5LE/
  
• Polk TSi100 speakers - https://smile.amazon.com/Polk-Audio-TSi100-Bookshelf-Speakers/dp/B00192KF12/
  
  My recommendation would be to see if you can stretch your budget to buy the Denon AVR and the better speakers. That would put you at $280 plus tax. If your budget really is limited then go for the AVR and the T-15. When you're ready to upgrade you will have the option to add a subwoofer, a center channel speaker, surround speakers, or better front speakers and move the T-15 speakers to the surround positions.
  
  
  
  ​

Yes, you can use equalizer on PC and should be good enough. Somehow you got the car amp to work so it means you added a power supply, it's possible the sound is degraded because of the power supply it's also possible it's just fine as is.

If you can order from Amazon and return something if you don't like it why don't you try something like this?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B077GWVHHN/ref=as_li_qf_asin_il_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=basheaspe02-20&creative=9325&linkCode=as2&creativeASIN=B077GWVHHN&linkId=582e8e8f90cd5177c6f828726355abd7

Should have plenty of power to drive your speakers and then you can do a A/B test to see how the car amp stacks up.

A preamp has two basic purposes: 1) Volume control 2) Input switcher

How many inputs do you have? If you are just playing audio from a computer then don't bother with a preamp, use the volume control on the amps.

This isn't a bad price on the X7 LE. I think I paid more than what they're offering it for now. Love it out of the box, and swapping out the Op Amps make it even better.

SoundBlaster X7

I'd rather have a dedicated integrated amplifier and a separated radio tuner. If that's OK, then for your budget I'd recommend these 2:

• Yamaha A S500
  
• Marantz PM6004
  
  Both have a phono amplifier.

Get yourself a nice little Amp like an SMSL SA-50, a 3.5mm aux cable to connect your TV's headphone out to the amp, and some 16 gauge speaker wire to connect amp to speakers. Bob's your uncle.

IF money is type, you can go with a cheaper amp, but the first one I mentioned is nicer unit that you can keep when you upgrade to a TV with an optical out.

You won't find many 2.1 amplifiers to power a passive sub.... I think SMSL and Lepai make one, but its not going to be earth shattering amazing.

I would save up for a better system rather than throwing money at a old piecemeal setup

EDIT - I found this Fosi - (but I REALLY hate recommending Fosi brand to anyone)

• https://www.amazon.com/TPA3116D2-Amplifier-Audio-Independent-Adjustment/dp/B077QPTPVW/
  
  Adda FIIO dac and you'd be set for awhile (together would be $100 - if bought in the USA)
  
  
• https://www.amazon.com/D03K-Digital-Analog-Audio-Converter/dp/B009346RSS/

I would get a Dayton MA1240a multichannel amp and some Chromecast Audios. Personally, I prefer the Chromecast over Sonos because its more natively integrated into other applications rather than having its own app, and its quite a bit cheaper. I have this setup in several homes and it works great. You may want to look at using the ethernet adapter if you are going to group them together. They need a good network connection to be reliable.

I just picked the first speakers that came up on Amazon but any speaker that has its own power, and RCA connectors should work.

Edifier R1280DB Powered Bluetooth Bookshelf Speakers - Optical Input - Wireless Studio Monitors - 4 Inch Near Field Speaker - 42w RMS - Wood Grain https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0719C132V/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_LAoYCbKRRTDKV







You could also connect to an amplifier that has RCA connectors and use that to power speakers that don't have their own power. Like this:

Wireless Bluetooth Power Amplifier System - 200W Dual Channel Sound Audio Stereo Receiver w/ USB, SD, AUX, MIC IN w/ Echo, Radio, LCD - For Home Theater Entertainment via RCA, Studio Use - Pyle PDA6BU https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01A6ND1LU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_FEoYCb069XCGP




Again, I'm not endorsing these products, I'm just using them as an example.

Thanks!

I ended up getting this in the meanwhile:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077GWVHHN

I have a very unconventional setup right now. Its two center speakers as my L/R speakers, that reciever into my phone's headphone jack and a usb c- HDMI cable to my projector.

It works great for now.

As long as you have the EQ box and a somewhat symmetrical, medium sized room you should be right with just about any receiver or amp.

I would suggest something capable of a true 75-100w into 8Ω AT LEAST.

If you are in a small dorm room you will be missing out on most of the capabilities of the speakers, they really need a large symmetrical room with a straight, unobstructed back wall for the rear mounted drivers to reflect off.

I'd suggest a Yamaha A-S500 as a good amp in your price bracket. keep in mind, it is a proper hi-fi amp not a home theatre receiver, so it doesn't do any video switching or digital decoding.

I'm so confused about 2.0 and headphone setup now.

Can I buy a DAC/amp such as the SMSL SD793, connect my headphones to the front, a pair of bookshelf speakers to back, and switch between the two outputs with a button?

All the DAC/amp rear outputs look like RCA to me, which AFAIK, don't work because speakers need to be connected via straight speaker wire.

Do I need to buy a standalone AMP to do something like this??

This would be the cheap option:

$25 bucks for the amp and DAC. It's a notable step up from using the controller.

For a higher quality solution, the Topping A30 amplifier paired with a Topping D30 or Topping D10 DAC. This is if you really want to maximize audio clarity and drive power hungry headphones.

Personally? I'd get the cheap option first and if you want an upgrade later, go with the more expensive one.

Sorry didn't see the part where you mentioned a sub out. This one for $15 more might be better:



TB20A TPA3116D2 Stereo Amplifier 2.1 Channel Class D Audio Amp with Subwoofer Volume Control 2x50W 1x100W Sub Output Super Bass Power Receiver, Treble Bass Independent Adjustment + Power Supply https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077QPTPVW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_QU-5CbNA58T83

Glad that worked out, yeah you'd need a beefier source with the proper outputs.

Like this: https://www.amazon.com/TPA3116D2-Amplifier-Audio-Independent-Adjustment/dp/B077QPTPVW

Those speakers will work ok with one amp like this: https://www.amazon.com/Pyle-PCA3-150-Watt-Stereo-Amplifier/dp/B001P2R1RW/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1495133795&sr=8-5&keywords=audio+amplifier or with one like this : https://www.amazon.com/Kinter-Digital-Audio-Power-Amplifier/dp/B007TUSXEY/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1495133795&sr=8-3&keywords=audio+amplifier , all depends on your budget.

Yes you could do that. The yamaha has the digital inputs you'd need and the phono.

The other receiver many people look at for this kind of thing is the Pioneer Elite A20 It's $100 cheaper but doesn't have digital ins.

Yamaha also makes that same receiver in higher power versions like the 501 if you so desire.

It's a shame about the phono input because the Denon Heos Amps are discontinued and going for $350 on Amazon and would replace your need for Chromecast or your Xbox because it allows bluetooth, USB, or wifi streaming including direct access to Tidal and Spotify.

Not to further add to the pool, but Klipsch makes a set of self amplified speakers for turntable lovers with a built in phono and digital inputs, and the speakers have the amp built into them. r15pm

That will work well. But it might be better to get an external USB DAC instead.

Like this one: https://www.amazon.fr/Décodeur-Amplificateur-Topping-ES9018K2M-OPA2134/dp/B07B46KQVP


You would use the DAC in that unit instead of the one in your Cambridge amplifier.

Yep! These are the ones I ordered.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01BFJDTW0

They made more of a difference than I was expecting and I'm really happy I decided to upgrade.

Yeah but finding one with a headphone jack and passive speaker drivers is the hard part lol. https://smile.amazon.com/Teac-AI-101DA-B-Integrated-Amplifier-Black/dp/B00UGYFWQC?sa-no-redirect=1 this has what I want but it's a little out of my range, and at $300 I just don't know if I should just jump up to $400-500 and get something that'll last me a lifetime.

I am in a similar situation! re budget amp/receiver for $150

I'm thinking of the Orb Audio Booster 50 Watt Mini Integrated Amplifier With Optical Input and Remote Control which is $159 on amazon.

If anyone has other suggestions I'd be very interested as well

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017J6K598/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

I'm looking to build a Schiit stack that can power my passive bookshelves. I have a Mani and I plan to buy the Magni (for my headphone sessions) and the Loki down the line. The Vidar is unfortunately just not in my price range for now. So what I'm looking for is a budget speaker amplifier for my passive speakers. Thanks!

EDIT: Would something like this work for what I'm trying to do?

I use a cheap Pyle amp (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001P2R1RW/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_HoUXtb0QCZKK3), a pair of speakers and an AirPort Express. I've got these all over the house. Works great in combo with AppleTV as well.

No problem. ZDT Jr is definitely a safe bet. I really haven't come across anyone that hasn't enjoyed it with Sennheisers or ZMFs. Even Zach himself recommends it. One thing I particularly like about it is that it isn't the type of amp that requires a ton of tube rolling or switching out. I recommend getting a cheap pair of JAN5654 on Amazon and call it a day.

few questions for you 1. what state would this be shipping from? 2. the opamp was changed so if i've read right that means different tubes vs what it would run out of box right? 3. on a scale of 1 bad 10 new what would you rate the amp condition? 4. can you add more pics of the tube amp? 5. what kind of run time do the headphone have on them.
sorry for all the questions but i'm looking to grab on of these amps i grabbed tubes all ready https://www.amazon.com/Riverstone-Audio-Matched-Fully-Tested-Replacement/dp/B01BFJDTW0/ref=pd_sim_23_1?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B01BFJDTW0&pd_rd_r=BXT08AXZXSKNCR8FT20Z&pd_rd_w=ONecR&pd_rd_wg=SNU6x&psc=1&refRID=BXT08AXZXSKNCR8FT20Z. but i was reading up on the opamp upgrades but feel like this could be an upgrade that i might not be able to do.

Hi all,

I am in need of a new receiver or integrated amplifier.

I currently have the following:

Benchmark DAC1 USB really nice but discontinued

Pioneer budget 5.1 receiver url

2x Polk 12" subwoofers url

2x Buggtussel Amygdala loudspeakers extremely nice but long discontinued These are 6 ohm, 91db sensitivity and recommend an amp of 10-300w.

It seems to me that the receiver is a TREMENDOUS weak link.

I have a rough budget of $600 to get an integrated amplifier with a remote control that has 2 sets of analog inputs, some kind of subwoofer output, and puts out enough watts to make my speakers SING without distortion at high volumes.

this or this looks interesting, but I'm not sure if there isn't anything better/louder/clearer for a similar price (unwilling to spend more than $600).

Please advise; I have not researched audio equipment for some time and am a bit at a loss of where to start.

I have been looking at this dac for my ps4 and I would be grateful to hear about any past experience to help me make up mind.

Budget - Less than $500 - prefer under $400.


Source -https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00A2QLQTQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Requirements for Isolation - None

Preferred Type of Headphone - Over-ear


Preferred tonal balance - Minimal bass, looking to use them for metal music, and FPS games where subtle sound queues are important.


Past headphones - Sennheiser hd 598


Preferred Music - Metalcore, heavy metal, etc. I value vocals and instrumentals over bass. Looking for headphones with great frequency response.

Best home mini amp for a klipsch b3 bookshelf speaker. The speaker will not be used with a TV or PC to power it.

Is this my best option?

https://www.amazon.com/Pyle-2x75W-Stereo-Power-Amplifier/dp/B001P2R1RW/ref=sr_1_28?ie=UTF8&s=electronics&qid=1266202180&sr=8-28

Oh gotcha, I don't have enough experience with DACS to really know how it compares, this is only my second one. They do sell a standalone DAC but a big selling point for me was the headphone amp integration. Zeos seemed really impressed with it.

TEAC makes some really nice stuff, and several of their products fall within your budget.

EDIT: idk if your budget is for only the amp or also for the headphones and speakers, but ( https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00UGYFWQC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_uOUpzb0C0Y6PH ) is a nice little combo unit if it's the former.

https://smile.amazon.com/Nobsound-Bluetooth-Amplifier-Wireless-Receiver/dp/B06Y67PZB1

would something like this be enough or is the lepai better?

You clearly have no idea about how amps are built or what determines the output power. So maybe hold off on pronouncements about all amps.

There's always someone who'll shout about how they bought one and it worked for them. Woo hoo, a sample size of one. But the facts speak for themselves. See the Amazon comments about the amp you mentioned, they say exactly what I've been saying - quality control problems, fails, bugs, etc:

https://www.amazon.com/Nobsound-Bluetooth-Amplifier-Wireless-Receiver/dp/B06Y67PZB1

https://www.amazon.com/Nobsound-NS-10G-Bluetooth-Digital-Amplifier/dp/B01MS739KX

Which, again, is not to say that someone shouldn't buy them if that's the right tradeoff for them. If someone wants to save the money and can deal with a chance there will be some hassles or returns; and it may not last long - that's fine. I've been there, when I had time but not money.

It's just good to know what they are getting into, and maybe to buy from a vendor (Parts Express or Amazon) where there's some recourse if there are problems. And also, what they are really getting - eg the output power of that amp is likely closer to 10W per channel at 8ohms than 50W.

And BTW 10 watts is fine if someone is sitting not too far away or otherwise doesn't need the speakers to get too loud.

Sounds like you need something like these:.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00F0OMUGS/ref=pd_aw_sim_sbs_23_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=0ZAGYB8ZH3ZSJSBVHZEH&dpPl=1&dpID=41IrTc-8IBL.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00UGYFWQC/ref=psdcmw_537344_t3_B00R3CRY6Q.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B017W12UCU/ref=psdcmw_537344_t2_B00UGYFWQC

What’s your budget? You should be able to find quite a few refurb options like this Pioneer Elite A-20 2-Channel Integrated Amplifier with Direct Energy Design https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LIQ3NM2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_S3vUBb5TA2Q3D on Amazon and EBay between $150-250

I understand tri-phase more now, thanks!

I'm using the Smartstim's Midistim design, which I haven't built yet so I'm not sure how it all works. I've read the guide and have a vague understanding. But I'm not sure what you mean by output jack or wiring harness.

If you mean the 3.5mm to 2RCA cable, I think I'll get something like this.

If you mean the resistor + terminal blocks (I assume that's where electrodes are plugged in?) I'll be getting both from Allied Electronics from the p/n listed in the Allied Electronics part list at the bottom.

Here is where I'm getting my parts unless something's wrong with it. I'm listing all in case you meant something else or want to take a look at the specs.

Both these from Amazon: Amplifier and PSU

These 5 from Allied: Resistor, Transformer, Terminal Block, BLK Patch Cord, RED Patch Cord

The rest like plate and cable ties, I'll have to find in a store (I'm not familiar with any diy but I'll get it eventually).

I also read your reply in that other thread about the quality of transformers. It seems the Allied one is the same as the Zoro one in the smartstim downloaded parts list. The quality should be good then as long as nothing goes wrong.

edit: I need to find a new source for the 1 or 2 terminal blocks, Allied require a minimum of 100... I heard the terminal blocks don't need to be exact so I can get away with a variation. I found this terminal block and it might work.

I can't give you a personal review but after looking some this is what I found. I'm looking for the same thing as you so update me if you find anything better.

https://www.amazon.com/FX-Audio-TUBE-01-Preamplifier-Black/dp/B01HEQJGPC/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1542653435&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=fx+audio+tube+preamp&dpPl=1&dpID=41uCfoCpP-L&ref=plSrch

https://www.amazon.com/Riverstone-Audio-Matched-Fully-Tested-Platinum/dp/B01BFJDTW0/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1542653456&sr=8-2-spons&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=ge+vacuum+tube&psc=1

Based on what the appliance store guy suggested, I've been looking at something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/Dayton-Audio-MA1240a-Multi-Zone-Amplifier/dp/B003DKVZHQ/ref=gp_aw_ybh_a_5?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=9XC1MDZ5BRVJ73X7BVNM

It has 12 inputs (6 stereo) and you can plug your smart input of choice into each for zone control. I can use the $15 echo input for each room. So that's 545 + 6*15 = $635 for the whole setup.

It's probably what you have driving them. Anyway, I have Pioneer SP-BS21-LR 80-Watts RMS 2-Way Speakers (Pair) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004MEWZE4/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_BDdLub1VH859Z powered by a Topping TP20-MK2 MKII TA2020 Class T-AMP Digital Stereo Amplifier https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00828UTE4/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_CLdLub12T0DB0. I love it.

It is a digital to analog converter. The d10 is a great dac for the money.

https://www.amazon.com/TOPPING-es9018k2m-opa2134-Decoder-Amplifier/dp/B07B46KQVP

Setup:

• Monitors - Dell S2716DG
  
• Speakers - Kanto YU5
  
• Headphone Amps - Aune X7s and Darkvoice 336se
  
• DAC - iFi i-One
  
• USB Interface - Focusrite Scarlett 2i2
  
• Mic Preamp/Processor - DBX 286s
  
• Mic - Beyerdynamic TG V70d
  
• Keyboard - Steelseries Apex M800 (I'm replacing this with a Corsair Strafe RGB)
  
• Mouse - Logitech G502
  
• Headphones - Audeze LCD-2c
  
• Comp Case - Fractal Design Meshify C
  
• Desk - Build by yours truly
  
  Edit: Added Links

• FiiO D3 DAC - $28 - http://www.amazon.com/D3-Digital-Converter-Optical-Toslink/dp/B005K2TXMO/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1341261436&sr=1-1&keywords=FiiO+D3
  
  
• Pyle 75watt Amp - $50.46 - http://www.amazon.com/Pyle-2x75W-Stereo-Power-Amplifier/dp/B001P2R1RW
  
  
• Pioneer BS21 (Same as below) - $79.99
  
  This all costs $160. This isn't necessarily the setup I am recommending because I have never used any of these products. but at your price point and need of an optical input this is a way you could get better sound than a tv for cheap (DAC + Mini Amp + Bookshelf Speakers)

Those receivers list a "8 Ch Ext Input" feature.
>8 additional input jacks for discrete multi-channel input. Front (Left, Center, Right), Rear (Surround Left & Right, Surround Back Left & Right) and Subwoofer

That means you can essentially bypass the built in surround sound decoding and feed whatever you want into all the surround channels. You can use this to turn those surround channels into separate zones with "surround L&R" and "surround back L&R" having their own inputs and being fed into their own rooms.

I am not exactly sure what they intend this feature to be used for as I have not seen this on a home theater receiver before, but it seems to let you use it as a simple 8-channel amplifier instead of a home theater receiver. This is pretty much what you want out of it, and I would assume that is how the previous owner was using them.

As a mentioned before, you can also get 12-channel amplifiers for this exact purpose, but what you have already should work fine. The one thing that your receivers might be missing is a signal sense auto off/on. This means you would have to manually turn the whole system on and off, or just leave it on all the time.

a possible config would be hdmi source --> hdmi in, L/R stereo out --> RCA stereo in, 3.5mm out --> 3.5mm line level input, sound out

another with powerful speakers would be hdmi source --> hdmi in, L/R stereo out --> RCA in, 100W powered speaker wire out --> 100W, 50W rms unpowered speakers

So maybe a setup like dis?


Integrated Amp:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00LIQ3NM2/ref=mp_s_a_1_15?ie=UTF8&qid=1500210338&sr=8-15&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=integrated+amplifier


And then throw in a cable for my phone?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0100WN676/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1500211025&sr=8-5&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=rca%2Bphone%2Bcord&dpPl=1&dpID=41T2cgQmrmL&ref=plSrch&th=1&psc=1

I use an older version of this. For $300, it powers speakers nicely, has a nice built-in DAC, subwoofer out, a nice sounding headphone jack that would power any but the most exotic headphones: http://www.amazon.com/Teac-AI-101DA-B-Integrated-Amplifier-Black/dp/B00UGYFWQC/

Another headphone you might consider in the same league as the HD650 and 400i are the Philips X2, currently on sale for $100 off for only 9 more hours if you're in the US: http://www.amazon.com/Philips-X2-27-Fidelio-Headphones/dp/B00O2Y2MZG

A basic audio amp and speaker selector combined with a Chromecast audio would work perfectly.

Unfortunately I'm not good with hardware.

But I think like this
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B007JV6F34/

With this
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0071HZ5LE/

So I've been in the market for a new Phono Pre Amp and I saw some great reviews of the Little Bear RIAA Preamp and decided to pull the trigger along with buying new bulbs . When I got it all setup properly I turned it on and put on a record and it sounds completely muffled and not that loud. I unplugged everything and even made sure it was grounded, but I still couldn't fix it.

Are there any recommendations on what I should do?

Here's my setup -
Table: Pro-Ject Audio Debut Carbon DC Esprit SB
Cartridge: 2M Red
Pre Amp: Little Bear RIAA T7
Receiver: Yamaha R-S202BL
Speakers: Klipsch RP-280F

I want to buy these speakers and match them up with this amplifier. These would be for a bedroom setting currently and possibly living room in the future. Is the amplifier overkill or should I look into better speakers?

How would they people working their be able to control the volume and power off the device?

​

Could something like this work?

https://www.amazon.com/TDA7498E-Audio-Amplifier-Receiver-Integrated/dp/B077GWVHHN/ref=sr_1_9?crid=1V3HHB6JCEY2M&keywords=amplifier+home+audio&qid=1551032363&s=gateway&sprefix=amplifier%2Caps%2C198&sr=8-9

With 150 you can ditch the entire system and build your own little one
buy these speakers, [amp] (http://www.amazon.com/Topping-TP20-MK2-TA2020-Digital-Amplifier/dp/B00828UTE4/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1405116091&sr=1-1&keywords=topping+amplifier), speaker wires and [this cable] (http://www.amazon.com/Belkin-Audio-Cable-Splitter-1-Mini/dp/B00004Z5CP/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1405116222&sr=1-2&keywords=3.5mm+to+rca). It's a little more than $150 but will worth it.

edit: if you get more space in the future you just add a subwoofer.

You should give us a hint of your budget.

If you get some Micca MB42x and pair it with a cheap amp such as this SMSL 36 for $50 you'll be in a good spot for under $150.

If you want a subwoofer, the infinity reference r10 is on sale currently for $120 (down from $400 MSRP). You just need to combine it with a different amp that can feed a signal to it such as the Topping MX3

Just stumbled across your NOBsound Micro Amp review and really liked what I saw. Is there a reason this amp isn't recommended on here anywhere? I realize the original unit you linked to from that review isn't available anymore, but there is a different unit available now, for what seems to be $5 more than the old one, but it looks identical.