Reddit mentions: The best cabinet & furniture latches

Short(ish) TL;DR: Building a box on top of a utility trailer that will bolt-together, plywood sides, seat with locking storage and will be pulled behind a electric front hub recumbent trike. Not for use on the road, low speeds (~5-10mph) on pretty flat terrain with at most some ruts and dust piles. TTITD Already got the hitch made up and working well enough.

Longer form:

SketchUp file for those that want to follow along that way, otherwise image link.

This Gorilla Carts GOR1001-COM utility cart, going to weld up the frame but in sections that will bolt together. Want to be able to flat(ish) pack this in my storage unit when not using it. Main tube will be 3/4" square steel, the tube that's the extra supports will be recessed 1/2" tub, flush to the inner surface of the 3/4" tube providing ~1/4" for plywood to fit in against and help keep it in place.

All the tabs shown are 1/8", and almost all 1"x1". Debating drilling 1/4" holes and using #12 screw bolts, or drilling 5/8" holes and 1/4" hex bolts.

The seat bottom and back and top may be 3/4" plywood, not sure yet. All the rest will be 1/2" on the sides/back except the bottom (sitting on the mesh of the cart) which will be 1/4". Mostly to prevent little things from dropping out the bottom or stuff coming up from underneath.

The small 4" posts sticking inwards are for square u-bolts from the bottom which correspond to the cart cross beams and are 1/2" tube ~1/4" from the bottom to allow for the plywood.

The footrest in front is detachable and narrower than the full width, hopefully to cut down on people using it to step up as much. I'm slightly worried that if they step on the edge it may overbalance the cart. Having it closer to the center may help with that. If not, I'm going to just remove it and people will have to watch their feet with the tow bar :P

The seats bottom and back will be 2" high density foam covered with some basic cloth, stapled to the bottom of the plywood. The seat bottom may be hinged at front or rear to provide access to the front area where I'm intending to have a battery box and such. Using these type latches and some combo locks. Probably have a bit of 1x2" or similar wood behind the hinge area and latch areas to provide better grip for those.

The back will have a strip at the top/bottom, probably reinforced behind by some 1x2" wood or similar to provide better grip for hinges and latches. Might use the same latches as for the seat, but considering using these. It will swing backwards, and I'll may have a bit of steel cable to keep it from going all the way down, I'll see how it is in practice first.

I'll also get some anchors or similar and put them at the bolt points, and possibly at some of the other extra tabs I have in to help attach and hold the plywood in place. Might use screws, might just bolt through the plywood, not sure yet.

So, hopefully I'll get some constructive feedback (probably along with some "you're insane" or "no way that'll work" or what not). And it may not work as I hope. Oh well! I'll still learn a lot about how to do some things, and how not to do some things.

My alternate is just build a rectangular box, hinges in the middle with cushion and fabric all on top split in the middle. Still bolt together as a goal. A lot quicker and simpler and cheaper. But that's boring.

It must be a pain in the but having to spin that nut on and off the bolt every time.

I know you didn't ask for my advice but I think that Drawbolt latches will be equally secure if not superior to your current latch setup, but much easier to open.

If you still want to have the ability to throw a padlock on the case you can always buy draw bolt latches with the eyelet for a pad lock.

Thank you for your help. And I hope you liked my idea in return.

A quick tip in case you don't have the locking mechanism for the fuel door (because I didn't). Round hood latches fit nicely into the hole made by the lock cylinder. Put a spring behind it and the door will pop open when the button is pushed but otherwise stay very firmly latched shut. Unless you live in an area where fuel siphoning is rampant the lock is a little overkill. Also it looks pretty badass in my opinion.

Hi, I'm working on a folding gaming table with the tabletop hinged in the middle to fold down. I used these on the underside to provide support but it still kinda sags a little bit. I know I've seen "slide bolt" style braces before that I could use on the underside that would distribute the weight a bit better and keep it from sagging. However, all I can find when I search for that are the kind used for door locks. Anybody have any idea what I'm talking about and what I should be looking for? Thanks.

I plan to make the top enclosure removable with clips. It will look similar to the bottom "cart". I got an extension kit for the cables. I'll be putting the control box on the shelf below outside of the enclosure. I haven't decided exactly where I want the filament yet, on top is looking good. I will post more pics and info as I progress.

https://www.amazon.com/Flyshop-Spring-Loaded-Toggle-Chest/dp/B01N42P4QN?keywords=spring%2Block%2Bclips%2Bfurniture&qid=1537204525&sr=8-6&ref=mp_s_a_1_6&th=1&psc=1

You can build a box out of 1/2 inch thick plywood, with 2x2 or smaller pieces at some edges/corners. But be sure to check size and weight limits for the airline you are with. Typically it costs more if the total dimensions are greater than 62" (so 20 x 21 x 21 would be right at the limit). You can screw it together, but since TSA may want to peek inside, you can consider putting latches on the top cover they can open if necessary. We used something like: https://www.amazon.com/EWONICE-Spring-Butterfly-Surface-Closure/dp/B07Q8143V6/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=crate+latch&qid=1574553905&sr=8-2.

I was thinking of something like that for locking it in place. The inspiration was even the same - the cam locking fence on my tablesaw, but I wouldn't find anything that was small enough, and the fact that anything I found would have to be drilled into the edge of plywood made me nervous about the idea.

I did also think about having something that was flush with the bottom of the french cleat, and rotated out like a sliding latch, but again I just found size to be an issue, along with attaching to the bottom edge of plywood. Some of the things I thought about using:

https://smile.amazon.com/Alise-Rotate-Latches-MS220U-Brushed/dp/B01N1PNTEW/ref=sr_1_9?keywords=sliding+lock&qid=1554823301&s=gateway&sr=8-9

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XZ6LV2Z/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_3?smid=A1COAUT1Y8EGRY&psc=1

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07DRBB8P4/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_2?smid=A4IGQ3LQP26MX&psc=1

Both of the "latches", I wouldn't use the part that goes on the other side. I think the little figure 8 fastener with maybe an insert nut and a thumbscrew might be the simplest solution.

I used a few latches that I picked up on Amazon here. I have 2 on either side and it holds the extension on nice and snug while still allowing me to take the whole thing apart for easy transportation. That was part of the plan since I knew I would be bringing it to a wedding and a beach house this summer.

I bought a second hand smoker that didn't line up too well and leaked heat/smoke everywhere until I found a sealant.

https://www.amazon.com/LavaLock-Performance-gasket-smoker-STICK/dp/B01F9FE60K/ref=sr_1_1?rps=1&ie=UTF8&qid=1498888297&sr=8-1&keywords=smoker+tape&refinements=p_85%3A2470955011

I used that on the lid (on the smoker and the lid) along with some latches that locked the lid down to keep it sealed up real good.

Latches: https://www.amazon.com/Accessbuy-Stainless-Spring-Pack-90mm-Overall/dp/B01MR126O6/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1498888397&sr=8-3&keywords=spring+latches

If my explanation doesn't make sense, let me know and I will make a quick video.

One idea from a Airstream thread is to use stronger magnetic latches so they don't open up.

Leisure Products (PM 2001 LX 40 lbs) Magnetic Cabinet Latch with Stainless Steel Housing

https://www.amazon.com/Leisure-Products-PM-2001-lbs/dp/B004PG963M/ref=sr_1_4?s=hardware&ie=UTF8&qid=1502279554&sr=1-4&refinements=p_4%3ALeisure+Products%7CRV+Designer+Collection

It is a whole thread about off-road capability of travel trailers. But really it has ideas for making the whole build more durable. Apparently once you upgrade the quality of screws etc, a travel trailer is quite capable. Maybe better in a minor crash too. At least stuff shouldn't be flying around.


Off-road capabilities of Airstream?
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f382/off-road-capabilities-of-as-30063.html

/u/Parsias I think I got the latches somewhere on amazon, It was pretty cheap, I'll look later.
edit:

Found [it] (https://www.amazon.com/Uxcell-Right-Antique-Bronze-20-Piece/dp/B00PZY11IQ/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1467763656&sr=8-7&keywords=box+latch)

I'm thinking a suitcase latch like this along the top. Two should keep it firmly shut.

Not sure if a hook latch will do the trick, but this one says it's 30 x 22 mm. I wasn't able to find a drawing to show what those dimensions are though, each base, or the whole thing while latched.

You might try searching for latches specifically made for jewelry boxes or other small items like that, to weed out the larger results.

My bumper has sag like most others. I bought 2 of these and they did the trick!

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0160TOFFA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_LEmMyb83Y36SR

https://www.google.com/aclk?sa=L&ai=DChcSEwjDjKj9huPlAhWBymQKHRyFD_IYABAWGgJwag&ae=1&sig=AOD64_1HKBpI5e7ud5he0eeky025fLdVWQ&ctype=5&q=&ved=2ahUKEwic05_9huPlAhVD7J4KHVFeB74Qwg96BAgKECo&adurl=https://www.amazon.com/MTMTOOL-Antique-Decorative-Butterfly-Latches/dp/B07X32HPCD/ref%3Dasc_df_B07X32HPCD/%3Ftag%3Dhyprod-20%26linkCode%3Ddf0%26hvadid%3D385272075247%26hvpos%3D1o6%26hvnetw%3Dg%26hvrand%3D3039153827260854203%26hvpone%3D%26hvptwo%3D%26hvqmt%3D%26hvdev%3Dm%26hvdvcmdl%3D%26hvlocint%3D%26hvlocphy%3D9029499%26hvtargid%3Dpla-820668910462%26psc%3D1%26tag%3D%26ref%3D%26adgrpid%3D78829231816%26hvpone%3D%26hvptwo%3D%26hvadid%3D385272075247%26hvpos%3D1o6%26hvnetw%3Dg%26hvrand%3D3039153827260854203%26hvqmt%3D%26hvdev%3Dm%26hvdvcmdl%3D%26hvlocint%3D%26hvlocphy%3D9029499%26hvtargid%3Dpla-820668910462

Touch Latch

https://www.amazon.com/Touch-Latch-Magnetic-Large-Doors/dp/B07357D4ZZ

I think you're looking for toggle clamps

Accessbuy Stainless Steel Spring Loaded Toggle Latch Catch Clamp Clip for Trunk, Case, Box, and Chest with 4 Pack，90mm Overall Length https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MR126O6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_5lrfzbR9WYY2F

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00RE6D8PW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

These see what hold many of the crates together that come across my dock https://www.amazon.com/Reliable-Hardware-Company-RH-2636-Butterfly/dp/B00JQYUVA0/ref=asc_df_B00JQYUVA0/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=167142056815&hvpos=1o5&hvnetw=g&hvrand=13844684363498835333&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9030453&hvtargid=pla-375582233677&psc=1

Magnetic Push Latch's

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009E7PRDK/ref=psdc_686948011_t1_B01LX1K0HN

touch latch

http://www.amazon.com/Mc-37-Non-Magnetic-Touch-Latch-Black/dp/B001CK3QHQ/

Does it have to lock?

What about these latches that pop open when you push on them