Reddit mentions: The best chisels

> The Lathe:

Sounds like you've got this well under control.

> The Tools:

There are very split camps on tools: replaceable carbide tips vs traditional tools. Personally I think both have a place, but I do feel it's best to start with traditional tools to learn the how and why tools work the way they do. My personal opinion is always to spend the real money on good tools. They don't have to be expensive, but the right tool of the right quality (sharp, of course) will make all the difference in the world. Every try to dig a post hole with a hand trowel? :)

Also don't feel bound by just one brand or type of tool...most of us have lots of tools!

You can go with carbide-tipped tools such as Easy Wood Tools, Simple Woodturning Tools, or other brands. You can make your own for a fraction of the cost to buy.

There are a few of good entry-level HSS sets out there for about $80, such as this frequently recommended set of Benjamin's Best. I also like Hurricane brand tools which I feel are excellent entry-level HSS tools for the money. Either of those would serve you well through the learning curve and a good ways into your turning career.

If you wanted to pick just two higher-end tools, I feel Crown's Pro PM are good for the price. I own several, they're nice, but the handles are a bit short for my knuckle-dragging frame! All you really need for the projects you listed is a skew chisel and a spindle gouge.

Lastly, you could buy some of the popular "buy it for life" tools like Thompson Lathe Tools or D-Way Tools. These are widely considered the upper end of turning tools with each tool running between $55-200 (handles sold separately). Many people who get serious about their hobby end up with these tools because the harder tool steels are more durable.


> The Bench Grinder:

The Rikon 80-805 is the most common good deal for a grinder. Occasionally some other Asia-import will pop up on the scene for a little while, but the Rikon is pretty predictable about going on sale. Also, it comes with two decent wheels to get you started; not all import grinders come with decent wheels.

Eventually you might want to invest in CBN wheels to replace the frangible wheels that come on the grinder, but that's probably down the road for you.

Lots of people use that grinder, I've not heard anything outright bad about it (although some people prefer one with more HP).

> Drill Press?

A cheap drill press will get you there just fine.

The most common alternative is to purchase a 4-jaw chuck, such as the Nova G3 (which requires the appropriate insert), and also a set of pen drilling jaws and a drill chuck for the tailstock. That lets you drill blanks entirely on the lathe (and with better accuracy than a drill press IMO).

The downside is that the 4-jaw chuck, insert, jaws, and drill chuck collectively will cost damn near $200, which is a lot more than a cheap drill press. The upside is that the chuck is exactly what you will need if you decide to get deeper into turning and want to try bowls, boxes, and other things. Many of us already owned or planned to own a chuck, so the only real cost addition was the pen drilling jaws and the drill chuck.

> Pen turning attachments

• Mandrel savers are a separate purchase.
  
  
• Be warned that barrel trimmers are not universal, they come in different sizes and some pen kits use a sleeve to up-size the trimmer to fit the larger tube.
  
  
• You can use epoxy or CA glue, whichever you prefer to glue tubes. If using CA glue, make sure you buy a spray bottle of accelerator so that you can zap the ends to prevent a dripping mess!
  
  
• Any general sandpaper from a home improvement store will work fine, don't need anything fancy or expensive. Quite a few of us purchased the $40 box from Klingspor's which is enough sandpaper to last me several years.
  
  
• A P100 filter dust mask is a good investment as well for safety gear.
  
  
• FINISH: If you plan to use CA glue as your finish, you need a different viscosity (thin) than what you use to glue the tubes (thick). This means you need to buy two different bottles of CA and look into a pack of MicroMesh sanding pads for polishing the CA finish.
  
  If you plan on using something else for the finish, make sure you buy what you need.
  
  
• SAW: You need a way to cut pen blanks and trim off excess waste. If you don't own any cutting tools that are sufficient for the job, a cheap miter box will do the job just fine. Make sure you clamp the box and the blank down well before sawing!

It really depends on what kind of carving you want to do. I mostly do low relief carving (which is carving an image less than an inch or so into a board), and to get started with that kind of carving you want a gouge or two, a v-parting tool, and maybe a knife. Ramelson makes cheap but reliable tools, and this is a good set: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008I40CC6/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_c_api_fC4HzbSYX6WBY - The problem with buying sets, though, is that you'll end up always using the two or three tools you love, and the rest will just sit there.

If it were me though, I would buy one good gouge and a knife, start carving with those to find out what you like, and then build your collection from there (once you get a feel for carving you'll start thinking "boy, I really need a tool to do this one specific cut", then you go and find that tool). Pfiel is my go to brand and I've always been very happy with them. If you're going this route then buy this gouge - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0032YV9LU/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_c_api_lU4Hzb1AZGTFX - or this gouge - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0032YZ7IQ/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_awdb_L54HzbA1GKG75 - (the only difference between the two is the type of handle) and a knife.

If you think you'll want to carve "in the round" (wood sculptures) then maybe just get started with a good knife and build a collection from there based on what you need.

If you're thinking of carving spoons (which I don't do much so the other guys will be able to offer better advice) then maybe a bent gouge like this - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0008GMUZO/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_c_api_204HzbXFABDN4 - or a spoon knife like this - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01ALUTDP6/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_c_api_k24HzbHWKGPE9 - and, again, maybe a regular knife.

And most of all GOOD LUCK WITH RECOVERY! Carving might just be a great hobby to help because it keeps you focused, especially if you're doing detailed work. Feel free to PM me if you need anything.

Edit: Oh, and don't worry too much about sharpening right now. Sharpening can be tough to master, and if you buy a good quality tool then you won't need to sharpen for a while. You'll need a strop of some sort though to hone the edge from time to time, and this is what I've been using for a long time now: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FX9MHIG/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_awdb_uA5Hzb9WTMR7J

I just want to say how awesome your contest is and thank you for holding it. :)

I'm an interesting and beautiful person, but only because I just got all the supplies I need to finally get back into wood working. NOW, I just need some inspiration to get me motivated again.

Also, because a wood worker can always use more of these or even something like this, both of which I have not had the money/couldn't justify buying for myself just yet.

My other hobbies include voiceover type stuff which you can hear some of my recordings here and I am also a gamer, so you can find me on Steam if you are a gamer as well and are looking for someone to game with... Just nothing to graphic intensive because my computer can not handle some of that stuff unless I get a better graphics card like this one... Either way though, hit me up, listen to my recordings if you want and hell, leave me a request for a recording or give me inspiration to make something with the wood and tools I have! lol!

Hope you have a fantastic day and best of luck to all the other people entering this contest! :D

>How do you find wood to use?

If you're just starting out, I highly recommend visiting a lumberyard or Home Depot/Lowes, and getting your hands on some pre-cut lumber. I made my first dozen or so bows from 1x2x6 red oak boards from Home Depot. Hickory is another great option. The stuff is tough as nails, and extremely forgiving of mistakes. I'd also recommend a backing on your first couple bows, just to be safe. Titebond III and good linen cloth is bulletproof.

What's great about stuff from stores/lumberyards is that it's cheap and easy to come by. So when you break one* it's not like you're out a $60 Osage stave, or one that you spent months drying, shaping, and then tillering only for it to snap.

Plus they just make damn fine bows. I made one for a friend, 48# @ 28", that he used to take a mule deer a couple years back. Also, red oak looks absolutely gorgeous with a good stain.

If you really want to go down the rabbit hole and find some actual timber, do some searching to find out what good bow-woods are in your area, then find some you can take LEGALLY. Where I used to live in western WA, Vine Maple grew like a weed. One of my neighbors had a ton growing in their backyard, and agreed to let me take all I wanted in exchange for getting rid of the roots as well. Six bowstaves for an hour or two of work.

>However, I was wondering if I might receive some insight from the r/Bowyer community on what brands of tools stand the test of time/give the best results for the money in your toolkits?

If you're first starting out, and using pre-cut lumber, I can't recommend the Stanley Surform rasp enough. That, along with some sandpaper and rat-tail files for cutting string grooves, was all I used for my first six or seven bows.

Good scrapers are a life-saver, especially when you're tillering. Here's a set that I got some years ago: https://www.amazon.com/Crown-Hand-Tools-Rectangular-375/dp/B012M9H8UG/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1483215420&sr=8-2&keywords=wood+scraper

They still work just as well as when they were brand new. I would recommend learning how to sharpen them properly first, though. One of the edges on mine is ruined because I didn't learn how to properly sharpen/turn the edge at the beginning.

Here's the only other things I can really think of:

• Sandpaper, ranging from very coarse to very fine. The rougher stuff can be used for tillering in a pinch.
  
  
• Tillering tree: Super easy to make and absolutely essential. Tons of guides online on how to put one together.
  
  
• As mentioned above, a combination of files for stuff like shaping the handle, rounding corners, cutting string grooves, etc etc.
  
  
• A pencil! Useful for marking areas that you need to adjust in the tillering process and doing dimensions.
  
  
• Stain and finish. The former to really make that bow shine, and the latter to seal it from the elements.
  
  *There's a saying in the bowyer community: If you aren't breaking bows, you aren't making bows. I messed up 4 staves before getting one that shot consistently and survived. So don't beat yourself up or get too frustrated when it happens. You'll learn from the mistakes and make even better bows that way!
  
  Hope that helps! I'm by no means an experienced bowyer but if you have any questions I'll do my best to answer :)

I assume you have not used hand tools much.

The first thing I would learn how to do and invest in is how to get your tools sharp, like really sharp. I mean shiny flat back and edge razor sharp. Without really sharp tools - hand joinery is not fun and much harder than it needs to be.

There is the scary sharp method, I am sure u/Peniceiling's suggestion works great, I use Shapton Stones, there are as many ways to sharpen as there are woodworkers.

But you will need to research and invest time in some way of sharpening and get good at it.

A simple Honing Guide can make things easier when you start.

This Small Rip Dozuki B. was recommended by the instructor I had for a hand joinery class last year as the best bang for the buck they knew of - I found it works great.

I'd get a 1/2in Chisel. When you get the chisel, it will not be sharp. You will have to spend time tuning it up.

A Mallet to hit the chisel.

I personally prefer a round marking gauge. This has to be sharpened just like your chisel so it cuts the wood fibers evenly and cleanly.

Small Sliding Bevel gauge to mark your dovetails.

A good quality double square is invaluable. Best $ value I have found for one of these is here.

A 2.0mm lead holder with sharpener is very helpful. Lets you mark into areas a regular pencil will not fit.

That would be everything I can think of to do all half blind and through dovetails, finger-joints etc.

A drill(press) and a couple more chisels sizes will get you mortise and tenons with standard 4/4 6/4 and 8/4 stock.

Good Luck.

I was recently given the cheaper set of Narex chisels, and I like them. The blades were in pretty good shape out of the box. They needed minimal flattening and removal of machining. They had a heavy coat of lacquer that came off easily with some paint remover and steel wool. The edge was fairly well honed; I took it a bit farther. They're longer than chisels that I've had in the past, so I'm still getting used to the different balance. They hold an edge well. For fine dovetail work, the lands are a bit big, but you could grind them down if you want to (and are careful not to lose the temper). Overall a great value. If you're going to be doing a lot of fine detail work, the premium chisels look pretty good for a reasonable price, but I've never used them.

I also have this set of Stanley chisels which aren't bad. They don't seem to hold an edge quite as long as the Narex, but I haven't tried any real comparison. The lands are larger than the Narex, so fine work would be more problematic, but they're only $15 for the set. A good value, but I like the Narex better.

I got one item in and cringed (the work bench) and immediately came to try and stop you from buying it. This may or may not be related to the fact that I just spent an hour trying to do dovetails with it and am...irritated is the word I'll choose in case there are children on the forum :). That being said, it's not bad for what it does. It works well as a holding surface, the vice is decent and can hold for certain things (planing hardwood may be tough but it's not impossible), and it's better than nothing. At the very least it will certainly come in handy for making a true workbench (which has moved up to being my current project after my afternoon).
My opinion on everything else as someone who just started last month:

I haven't bought a bevel yet, will get one once I find a need to.

The block plane is fine, I have the same one and I sharpened the blade and it does the trick without problem.

I bought cheap chisels from harbor freight for ~$8.00 which I sharpened and they do okay. I was at woodcraft today and bought one (3/8) irwin marple (http://www.amazon.com/M444--3-8-Inch-MARPLES-Chisel/dp/B0000BYE7E/ref=sr_1_9?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1425516709&sr=1-9&keywords=irwin+marple+chisel+3%2F8) and holy chisel is it amazing after sharpening. Is this placebo because it's a nicer chisel or is it really better, I'm not sure but it's my newest favorite tool so I'll take it.

Saw: I bought the veritas dovetail saw (http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/153370/veritas-standard-dovetail-saw-14-tpi.aspx) after fighting a cheap old saw I bought at an estate sale and it's an enormous difference (unfortunately it's enormously more expensive at $60.00 but it's the only "nice" tool I have so I feel justified)

Other tools I have: old stanley 4 and 5 bought at an antique mall, sharpened and fully usable though not truly restored and a electric drill which is fine. My wife has said I need to actually make something at this point as a proof of concept so that will probably be what I have for the foreseeable future.

Edit: I also read both the workbench books by Chris Schwarz which I found helpful. The first one is history and reasoning behind certain styles/purposes of workbenches which I enjoyed but for your needs the second one may help. It has ~10 examples of different styles of workbenches, including one that is a knockdown bench.

^This. I find Paul Sellers to be an amazing resource on how to do woodworking both incredibly well, and very cheaply. I wish that I had found his videos earlier, I could have saved quite a bit of money.

Figure out what level of woodworking you want to do. For really fine furniture / cabinetry / joinery, you will need to spend a fortune on machines to accurately process wood to this level. With just a few hand tools, you can produce the same quality or higher, it just takes more time and skill.

I personally have gone the hand tool route, and would highly recommend it. My first project has been a Roubo style workbench, which has been an amazing journey for me, because I have had to figure out how to sharpen, set up, and use my planes, chisels, etc. Even without the bench, I am still able to use my tools to do all sorts of woodworking projects - it's just a bit more time consuming to always be jury rigging my clamping to make plane stops, etc.

Try watching some videos, to see what can be made easily with a small number of tools. For example, a Joiner's Mallet, or a Wallclock. I started with just some cheap chisels, a piece of glass, and some sandpaper (80, 220, 500, 1000, 1500, 2000 grit) and practiced chisel sharpening until I could get a really fine edge. Then I was ready to buy a cheap mallet and saw and start practicing dovetails](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OCYjoj6cfno). This is something you could do all day long, in pine or oak trim board, in a small space. If you decide this is something that you really like, then look at buying more tools to be able to take on new projects! Another great, simple project might be to carve spoons, either with a gouge and spokeshave or an axe and knife.

Hard to say for sure without knowing his shop, so you'd probably want to try to scope out any recommendations for specific stuff to see if he already has something similar before you buy.

A good suggestion that I think always works well for any budget is to go to a local hardwood dealer and just pick out a selection of interesting exotic lumber, any woodworker will always appreciate getting cool woods to use in their projects.

If you want to have some ideas for stocking stuffers / tools though I'll list some cool things that I think are not super common that I enjoy owning or make my life easier.

Tiny-T Pocket rule

6" precision t rule

A really nice miter gauge

Router setup bars

A nice marking knife

Marking gauge

Magports

Tapeboss

Grr-ripper

Dozuki & Ryoba

Alexa (Alexa, what is 5 and 3/8 times 16... Alexa set reminder for 30 minutes to spray the second coat... Alexa order shop towels... etc, it's actually really useful, and it plays music too)

Shop apron

Quick sanding strips

Digital Angle Gauge

Digital Height Gauge

Anything from Woodpeckers is pretty much guaranteed to be great, albeit kinda pricey

If you decide to go the hand tool route, money and space are a lot less of a concern. Rather than throw out hypotheticals, I'll give you some examples of tools you can actually buy right now:

Panel saw. Yeah, 10 bucks. It's actually a nice saw too. The only issue is the teeth cannot be sharpened - but it's 10 bucks. Use this for breaking down big stock into smaller stock

Back Saw. Also 10 bucks. Same as above. Disposable but cheap and will last a long time (it's disposable because the teeth have been hardened). This is for precision cross cuts and cutting tenons.

Dovetail/fine joinery saw. 25 bucks plus a 3 dollar xx slim double taper saw file to make it not suck.

Now for some planes. These may seem kind of pricey for "broke" status, but these aren't POS-get-you-by planes. These are lifetime tools. To get something comparable new, you are looking at 150.00 to 300.00 a piece. You can get better deals by bidding on some planes, but these are all "buy it now"

Stanley #4. Needs some love but that's a good user for 30 bucks.

Stanley #5 for 42$

Stanley #7. 90 bucks.

Pick up a 4 dollar card scraper too.

Chisels

Narex $36. Use one of these and a block of wood to make yourself a router plane also.

Combination square 10 bucks.

A cordless drill of some sort and some bits (assuming you have one already)

70 bucks in 2x12's so you can make a knock down Nicholson style workbench which doesn't need vises. When you are done working, break it down and put it in the closet.

35 bucks for a pair of holdfasts from Gramercy

30 bucks worth of F style clamps from harbor freight will get you started there.

14 bucks to get sharp (not at all ideal but completely workable on a budget)

So for 410.00 or the price of a decent sander and miter saw, you can make literally anything in a small space with a small amount of localized dust. The trade off of course it time and labor.

Down the road you are definitely want to get some better saws, maybe some specialty planes, different chisels, some better measuring/marking equipment. But this will more than get you started.

For tools I'd recommend you get some semi decent chisels (more is better, but get a few sizes, this is an ok set) and learn how to sharpen them (get a wet stone). A combination square is really freakin handy, and a dovetail saw. If you have the money get a japanese crosscut and rip saw. There's soooooo many tools that you "need", generally just buy tools as you find you need them, and slowly you'll turn into one of us and have a bunch of stuff laying around.

Making yourself a wooden mallet is a great project, but for starters just practice joints. After you get a couple lap joints and dovetails under your belt, try making simple boxes and frames (oh yeah, get some clamps and wood glue).

Watch some Frank Klausz for inspiration. Best of luck!

Not 'cheap' but these are the cheapest one's I'd get. You won't regret having decent steel and they'll last you a lifetime (even if you 'upgrade' later).
https://smile.amazon.com/Stanley-16-791-Sweetheart-Socket-Chisel/dp/B004TK0IG8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1483251855&sr=8-1&keywords=stanley+sweetheart+chisels

Good luck.

If they're too expensive, I'd second the Narex stuff. I have a set of their mortising chisels...while they don't hold a candle to the Lie-Nielsen stuff...they do work well and are cheap. Personally, I'd rather have (1) 1/2" Lie Nielsen mortising chisel instead of the Narex set. Unfortunately you need at least 2-3 bench chisels.

Really, the most important thing with chisels (cheap and/or fancy) is to sharpen them regularly. . . yes it's a chore but your work will be better. Get good sharpening stones (shapton or a reputable waterstone set) and you'll be set with even the cheapest chisels (just have to sharpen a bit more often).

Happy New Year!

I will say that he's going to be limited with that workspace, but he can get by with some basic stuff. I also have extremely limited space. I have an outdoor shop space, but since it's not insulated and has no power, I'm very limited in what I can do.

However, here's a good list of things to get.

1. Corded circular saw. I highly recommend this makita saw, it's a good value.
   
2. Metal-body combination square
   
3. Basic chisels
   
4. Workbench with clamps
   
5. Pull-cut dovetail saw -- can also be used for most short-depth cutting work. I use it to cut (or clean up) tenons as well
   
6. Glue. Lots of glue. I like Titebond II for not particular reason.
   
7. As many clamps as your remaining budget can afford. These irwin ones are always popular, work well, and are cheap enough.
   
   Keep in mind that father's day is coming up soon, and tools like these are popular things to be put on sale. Keep your eyes open :)
   
   

Stay away from pallets please, cough up some money and some time (if you go to a box store) getting some okay dimensional lumber for projects.

If you decide to go the hand tool route, I've got all sorts of info and what not, I'd share. (Im a historical furniture maker's apprentice, I like to think I've got some decent knowledge) I've included a list here if thats the route you go.

Used this list for a couple posts, its about $200ish in all to get you started. This list uses chisels in lieu of say a router plane for dados and doesn't have an option for grooves but that's later down the road. I've got a big enthusiast list as well if you'd be interested.

> Crosscut/Ripsaw: Irwin Double Sided Pullsaw https://www.amazon.com/IRWIN-Tools-Double-Edge-9-5-Inch-213103/dp/B0001GLEZ8
> Joinery Saw - I think this is the one Japanese saw I own? works okay https://www.amazon.com/Z-saw-Dozuki-Z-Saw/dp/B001DSY7G6/ref=pd_sbs_469_3?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B001DSY7G6&pd_rd_r=RBVEGF6TKKCZHVCH7WSH&pd_rd_w=16INj&pd_rd_wg=gFI50&psc=1&refRID=RBVEGF6TKKCZHVCH7WSH
> Chisels https://www.amazon.com/Narex-Republic-Woodworking-Chisels-863010/dp/B00GPC74ZQ/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1499302108&sr=1-1&keywords=narex+chisels
> Marking Gauge https://www.amazon.com/Crown-135-Marking-Gauge-Beech/dp/B00EC9AOZQ/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_469_lp_t_4?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=ZBYMV8TF850C6M5JDGDG
> Bevel Gauge https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XC2NYKS?psc=1
> Mallet - I'd personally make one or buy a used one (of heavier wood, good grain and quality construction.) Amazon has some though. https://www.amazon.com/Narex-gram-Beech-Carving-Mallet/dp/B00L7BQL54/ref=sr_1_11?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1499302341&sr=1-11&keywords=mallet
> Combination square -does the work of several sizes of squares for the price of one - https://www.amazon.com/IRWIN-Combination-Square-Metal-Body-1794469/dp/B005XUHIBG/ref=sr_1_2?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1499302407&sr=1-2&keywords=square
> A No 4 or 5 sized plane - I buy old Stanley's/Bailey's because they're great, and usually cheap for bench planes - Flea Market/Antique stores/ebay -$20 ish --- Amazon also sells new (I give no guarantee on quality however) - https://www.amazon.com/Stanley-12-404-Adjustable-2-Inch-Cutter/dp/B000FK3WI2/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1499302507&sr=1-1&keywords=stanley+plane
> "Workbench" - temporary thing to hold pieces while you make dovetails - https://www.amazon.com/WM125-Workmate-350-Pound-Capacity-Portable/dp/B000077CQ0/ref=pd_cart_vw_2_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=CA9X21QD5D7QAXKMGE6S
> Woodscrew clamp, used to clamp peice to workbench while chiseling waste - https://www.amazon.com/ATE-Pro-USA-30143-Handscrew/dp/B0006A4A5U/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1499303583&sr=8-1&keywords=wood+screw+clamp
>
> Other than clamps, glue, mortice gauge, etc, this is good enough to get you started making carcass (dovetailed) pieces of furniture, like a shoe cubby or bookshelf.
>
> Thats around $200 for getting you started. Add a mortise chisel and mortise gauge and you can start mortise and tenon work. Invest in pipe clamps when you reach a glue up point.

I would second the Stanley Sweetheart chisels as a good, affordable set of chisels. I think they perform great, feel good in the hand, and even look like a quality tool. Amazon has a great deal on the set of four most commonly used sizes.

https://www.amazon.com/Stanley-16-791-Sweetheart-Socket-Chisel/dp/B004TK0IG8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1482187654&sr=8-1&keywords=stanley+chisels

I'm working on something like this now and it's getting me started for a significant amount less than $2k.

Power Tools

Delta table saw $550 with 10% off coupon. I've heard rumors of finding better deals on CL, but I've had no such luck.

This CMT saw blade. $37, far outperforms what you get stock without the price tag of a Forrest blade.

This Porter Cable 4 piece cordless set for $180. Spend more if you can but don't go overboard. The batteries are proprietary and will only last so long before going bad.

Dust collector: this shop-vac for $140 and about $30 in a 5 gallon bucket and a few parts to make a cyclonic separator.

Bosch RO sander $70. I grabbed this for the softer pad that prevents gouging. You can get replacements of different durometers as well.

Hand Tools

No. 33 bench plane $10 at full price.

Japanese hand saw for $10 on sale right now.

This set of chisels $55.

Accessories

$50 worth of Irwin quick clamps, it's enough for 4 total. This isn't anywhere near enough but it's good to get started somewhere.

$50 of measuring devices. I like to have a 25' and 15' tape measure, a basic tri-square, and a mortise marking gauge to get started. I use the ruler from the square for 90% of my measuring.

Dril bit set for $35. I replace the ones I use frequently with better bits over time, the rest are occassional use only and will easily last a lifetime.

Pneumatic (truly optional, but very useful)

Hitachi air compressor $200. I have the older oil-lube version of this that I much prefer, but they're harder to find now.

This HF brad nailer $20.

Numerous hoses, fittings, etc for the air compressor $30 or so. Depends on what your needs are.

So far that's around $1450 ($1200 if you skip the pneumatic section) and gives you plenty of room to add various accessories and consumables. I think the hardest part of this exercise is that it really depends on what you are making and what your goals are. My shop is very specific to the tasks that I do frequently and the goals that I have in mind for production.

I got the Irwin set off amazon here and they're $12 cheaper today than when I got them. They came pretty sharp out of the box but after sharpening I was extremily impressed. They've held their edge pretty well and the length is pretty excellent for chopping deep mortises. If you are a bit tight and can't stomach an $80 set of 4 chisels this is a great option. The handles may not last ten years of heavy use but they're designed so you can replace the handles with wood ones which you can make on your own which is handy.

The new stanley sweethearts are also worth looking into IMO https://www.amazon.com/Stanley-16-791-Sweetheart-Socket-Chisel/dp/B004TK0IG8

Here are some other brands to look at: http://www.startwoodworking.com/sites/default/files/tool-test-bench-chisels.pdf

Keep in mind that with higher priced chisels you're often paying for it being closer to set up out of the box, and quality of the steel in terms of holding and edge vs ease of sharpening.

Second candleww that Ashley Iles are really sweet. Watch how quickly Dave Barron sets one up for use: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ENqMrvsR3q8

Lastly, I've seen vintage chisels perform just as well as new premium chisels once they are restored. Brands like Butcher, Witherby, Berg, Stanley are great. There are lots of videos on restoring chisels out there, and it isn't hard to do.

I can't comment on the ones in your pic, but I bought the ones above it (you can just barely see the bottom of them) and it was not worth the $10 or whatever I spent. They are softer metal and now essentially garbage for me. I next bought the Stanley Sweetheart 4 piece set for $75 and they are outstanding. (If that's too much for you FWW says these are really good for like $40.) So like I said, can't comment on these but in general, with tools, you pay for what you get. I'd rather spend $75 on something that will last my lifetime than $1 on something that will cost me time to replace, will fail when I need it, doesn't do the job quite as well.

The problem with vintage is they are not commonly in good condition, or at a good price and are rarely both. You need help now. I like my two woodriver planes and think it's a great option. I have had the Stanley one there and it's not good. Also the z saw and the gyo are essentially the same thing.

Here are some things I think are better values or super useful.

https://www.amazon.com/Narex-Republic-Woodworking-Chisels-863010/dp/B00GPC74ZQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1491542519&sr=8-1&keywords=narex+chisels

https://www.amazon.com/Japanese-Shop-Hammer-13-Oz/dp/B0037MHXVW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1491542635&sr=8-1&keywords=japanese+chisel+hammer

https://www.amazon.com/DMT-D3EFC-Dia-Sharp-Extra-Fine-Diamond/dp/B00006IIO3/ref=sr_1_11?ie=UTF8&qid=1491542814&sr=8-11&keywords=dmt+diasharp

https://www.amazon.com/iGaging-34-707-Wheel-Marking-Gauge/dp/B00B3ZS2J2/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1491542992&sr=8-2&keywords=marking+gauge

These are some good chisels not only to start with but to use until you really want to make the move up. You'll probably have to do some work to get them flat but it won't be that bad. Flatten the back and hone to a 30-degree micro bevel and you're ready to rock and roll.

For the money, you can't beat the Veritas dovetail saw. I'd suggest the 14tpi. I have that and the LN and they're both really good but the Veritas is a lot cheaper.

Good luck!

Thanks for the info.

I feel I'm treading water here flip flopping back and forth.

So this is what I have come up with.

Sharpening:

https://www.amazon.com/DMT-D6EF-Dia-.../dp/B000GD3V3E
and
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000PVXRJ0..._ZkHazb3N619JN

Chisels:

Stanley 16-791 Sweetheart 750 Series Socket Chisel Set, Brown, 4 - Piece https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004TK0IG8..._MlHazbXRPYNVR

Included the 1/4, 1/2, 3/4 and 1", add the 3/8" in separate.


That or the Narex set of 4 and the 5/8 from LV.

For some reason the Narex set looks more "robust" as the hornbeam handle on the sweetheart seems fragile...but after looking around more everyone says the sweetheart chisels are better than the narex. They seem to be identical to the ones on LV as on amazon for 30% less.

I bought this set of Narex chisels off amazon when I first started getting into wood working and they have been great for a couple of years now. They sharpen up really well and they are perfectly strong. I would definitely recommend to beginners even if they are in the pricier end of beginners sets.

*Editted for formatting the link

These are some of the best entry-level options:

• Narex Classic Bevel Edge
  
• Woodriver
  
• Stanley 750
  
  If you want to spend a small amount more and get chisels for life, consider these. They are shockingly inexpensive for how good they are.
  
  You don't need to go to L-N/Veritas/Blue Spruce and spend $75+ apiece on the world's greatest chisels to get good results. You can cut perfect dovetails with any of these.
  
  For dovetails, I mostly use 1/4", 1/2" and 3/4". On smaller pieces, sometimes just 1/4" and 1/2". For casework, the 3/4" chisel comes out a lot more.
  
  When clearing tail baselines, I like my chisel to be slightly more than half of the length of the baseline. This way, I get the whole thing in two strokes per side, and both strokes have plenty of knife line available for registration.
  
  Also, if you are going for super skinny pins, especially in thin stock, you may need to go smaller than 1/4". If your smallest chisel is 1/4", make sure that when you lay out your dovetails, the pin sockets are at least that wide. If you find yourself bruising the sides of your tails because you don't have room to maneuver, it's a sign that you need a smaller chisel or a larger pin.
  
  It's also useful to have a much wider chisel than 1/2" for paring and strengthening knife lines. Something in the 1"-2" range. This is less dovetailing-specific, but dovetails aren't the only joinery involved in making boxes.
  
  As for other tools:
  
  
• A cutting gauge like this for marking baselines.
  
• A try square or combo square
  
• A dovetail saw. The best bang/$ is this one.
  
• A dovetail marker: make it yourself.
  
• Some means for jointing and thicknessing stock.
  
• A way to hold boards upright while you work on them. You can make a Moxon vise out of scraps and inexpensive hardware.
  
• A saw to remove waste. I use a fret saw most of the time--with a little practice it's quick and efficient. Some people use coping saws. On larger/thicker dovetails (>1" stock), I sometimes use a turning saw.
  

This set of Stanley Sweetheart chisels is on sale for $83 which is a really good deal. Normally the chisels run around $30 per unit at a place like rockler. I'd put them a step above chisels like Narex (which aren't "bad" by any shot) but still below a brand like Ashley Isles or Pfeil.

Great set if you're looking to upgrade from something like harbor freight chisels.

I don't recall exactly. Like I mentioned most of the 2x4's were leftover that were laying around I had to buy 4 or so to supplement what I had on hand. In addition to that I bought the following tools as I didn't have them before and I was just getting started;

• #4 bench plane $149
  
• Ryoba Japanese Pull Saw $99 This thing is great, I had never used a pull saw before.
  
• Glue (not nearly enough glue so I ended up getting the [gallon](https://www.amazon.com/Waterproof-Titebond-III-Wood-Glue/dp/B009O3JRBC/ref=sr_1_2?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1493824721&sr=1-2&keywords=titebond+iii+gallon
  ) or so later which I have a lot leftover from
  
• Chisels I've since upgraded to narex bevel edge chisels. The dewalts are fine but as I'm getting into finer work the thick edge makes it hard to work around in tight spaces like dovetails. $30
  
• [Large front vise] (https://www.woodcraft.com/products/woodriver-large-front-vise) $109
  
• Lots of clamps I don't recall how much I watched for sales and tried to get them when they were on sale.
  
• Lumber ~$30-40 but as I said I had lots of what I needed on hand. I would expect material cost to be closer to $200-300 if you had to get everything.
  
  So roughtly;
  
  
• Tools: $400-500 + clamps
  
• Materials: $40-60 Lumber & glue (most people will spend considerably more here)
  
  The cost included a lot of startup costs for tools for me which will be long lasting. You could save quite a bit of money by buying used but in my local market planes are really hard to come by and hand saws are non-existent.

Let me start by saying that this would be the bare minimum. This is assuming that you have all the experience to use these tools effectively as someone who has the appropriate skill and knows to do things like not bear down on a saw when cutting, keeping everything square, how to mill boards by hand, how to not kill sandpaper in a few strokes, how to tune and sharpen a hand plane, ETC.


2x$8.69Vise grips Two vise grip clamps. Clamps can be universally adjusted and clamped in almost any direction with some quick thinking. One is never enough.


$9.99Cheap set of chisels Everyone needs a chisel. These will be made from a milder steel, but it's better than nothing.


$22.00Generic ryoba saw A ryoba saw will double for crosscuts and ripcuts. They go as far as you can take them provided you treat them right.


$18.62Bench Plane You need to be able to take down material in terms of thickness. A simple bench plane will due for now.


$20.61Block Plane A block plane will help slightly with end grain smoothing where the bench plane cannot.


$3.47Bundled Sandpaper You need to finish your products somehow. I would get a generic bundle of sandpaper and use it sparingly and tenderly.


$12.85Square Keeping things square is vital.


$6.79Mallet Hammering your chisels is going to be very important since you cannot use a 2x4 reliably.


$3.47Wood Glue Need to be able to glue things together.


$11.80A set of card scrapers Remove material smoother and faster. You don't want to waste sandpaper if you don't have to, and these are quite versatile.


$8.06A bastard file A bastard file will do for now when it comes to heavier shaping and sharpening your card scrapers.


$15.92A small drill viseKeeping something secure in place is very important. A small vise will accommodate small and narrow pieces of lumber and can be bolted to a bench.


$3.97Assorted finer sandpapers You need something to keep your chisels constantly sharp, especially when it is such a mild steel as a set of 9.99 chisels.


$15.59Wipe on polyurethane You need to be able to finish your products somehow.


Comes to $170.52 I would use the rest to make a bench and two sawhorses out of some 2x4's.

I think the one Sellers mentions cost like $15 US for a 4 pack which is a a bit crazy. I saw the pack you linked and started drooling. I love the look, and that it comes with leather carrying case. I don't have a problem paying $70 for quality, however I would be more comfortable if I understood why they cost $40 more than something like this pack http://www.amazon.com/Narex-Republic-Woodworking-Chisels-863010/dp/B00GPC74ZQ/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1426702020&sr=1-1&keywords=aldi+chisels

Basically am I getting a nicer tool, or just a nicer look and brand name?

I got this set (though, I got mine from Lowes - most hardware stores should have them. Heck, even Walmart probably has 'em). They're not great, but they're really impressive for the price. If you use them a lot, you'll probably want better chisels (i.e. the Narex ones everybody has mentioned. Those have been on my shopping list for a while now).

Also make sure you get something to sharpen them with. Chromium oxide paste/bar and a strop is also really helpful for quick touchups (My strop is a scrap of denim glued to a scrap of wood - doesn't have to be fancy). This isn't necessary to start, but it's inexpensive and something to keep in mind.

Yuppers! Amazon has the best price for stanley sweetheart chisels. The 4 piece is plenty: http://www.amazon.com/Stanley-16-791-Sweetheart-Socket-Chisel/dp/B004TK0IG8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1453931261&sr=8-1&keywords=stanley+sweetheart+750

The 24" K-body revo clamps should be excellent size for most of your projects (in addition to couple of 6" clamps). http://www.homedepot.com/p/BESSEY-24-in-K-Body-REVO-Parallel-Clamp-with-Composite-Plastic-Handle-and-3-3-4-in-Throat-Depth-KR3-524/204986215

Ohh...consumables are good from home depot also. Such as sand paper.

While I don't own these, Narex chisels get a lot of good press in this sub.

I was able to find a large set of Sorby chisels (18 of them I think it was, including a 2") on Craigslist for $100, so looking carefully online might be another option to find some good chisels for a bargain, but as always, buyer beware. :)

As /u/jakkarth points out, you'll need to tune and sharpen any chisel you get your hands on, and Paul Sellers videos are very informative and approachable.

Good luck!

It's small, but I've heard a lot of good things about the Mora chisel knife just from a convenience perspective. If he is always working in a shop this is less useful, but still has it's place.

Otherwise, a good sharpening system would be a nice addition to any shop to maintain an edge on chisels, planes, etc. I don't personally have a recommendation here, as I'm still looking for one.

I just bought a set of Narex chisels and as far as I understand, I'll need to sharpen them before use (I'm completely new to woodworking, sorry!).


I realize I could probably piece together a much cheaper version from a hardware store, but if this set is great to use out of the box, I'd rather spend the extra few bucks for a perfect surface and a guide as well.

Craftsman Table Saw Model # $150


Shop Fox model #G8826 fence system $275


Freud P410 Premier Fusion 10-Inch 40 Tooth Hi-ATB General Purpose Saw Blade $80


Wilton 15” drill press $100


Parks 12” planer $600 This requires a little road trip

Atlas 6” jointer $150 Model #


Delta 10” bandsaw, Powerkraft radial arm saw and Rockwell contractor table saw $200
I would resell one of the tablesaws Just pick the nicest one and sell the other.


Oneway Multi Gauge $97 This is for setting the jointer perfectly and the dial indicator can be removed to make planer setting jig as described by Bob Vaughan (see youtube) or fine woodworking 107.


Angle block set for machine setup $30


Bessey Bar Clamps $14x3 plus maybe $10x3 for bars Say $75 total


Stanley sweetheart chisel set of 4 $80



This leaves $243 left for misc things like drill bits, planer/jointer knives or sharpening F style clamps a cordless drill, random orbit sander, sand paper ect.

depends on what diy goals you have in mind. What I find myself using 80+% of the time when I am doing home diy stuff is some combo of the following.....

• Circular saw for breaking down sheet goods
  
• 
  
• Miter saw for breaking down dimensional lumber and trim cuts
  
• 
  
• Hammer
  
• 
  
• pry bars
  
• 
  
• my demo hammer (see below)
  
• 
  
• clamps
  
• 
  
• cordless drill
  
• 
  
• cordless impact driver
  
• 
  
• side cutter pliers
  
• 
  
• 11-in-1 screwdriver (see below)
  
• 
  
• Channel locks
  
• 
  
• Vise grips
  
• 
  
• socket and wrench set
  
• 
  
• putty knife
  
• 
  
• box cutter
  
• 
  
• tape measure
  
• 
  
• multimeter
  
• 
  
• wire strippers
  
• 
  
  don't forget yard work
  
  
  
• pump sprayer
  
• 
  
• seed/fertilizer spreader
  
• 
  
• mower
  
• 
  
• weed trimmer
  
• 
  
• rake
  
  A lot of those above tools stay in a tool bag I carry around, along with stuff like a pencil, markers, drill bit kit, driver kit, zipties and a few other such items.
  
  For basic tools and power tools for the weekend warrior..Harbor Freight is hard to beat.
  
  For good deals on power tools and air tools that are a of better quality...bigskytools.com has great deals on refurbished dewalt, hitachi, bosch and millwaukee tools.
  
  For your stated goals...I would go with a sander, a miter saw, a circular saw, carpenter square, speed square, a 48" level and a 12" level, and some other small tools I mentioned.
  
  Heres a good miter saw. Will handle everything you will need
  
  https://www.amazon.com/Hitachi-C10FCH2-15-Amp-10-inch-Compound/dp/B000NKB3LW
  
  Bigsky runs frequent deals on nailer/compressor combos should you wind up doing lots of trim. And frequently they will have a good 15 amp circular saw for around $50.
  
  Speed Square
  https://www.amazon.com/Swanson-S0101-7-inch-Square-Layout/dp/B00002255O
  
  Carpenter / Framing Square
  https://www.amazon.com/Tools-Framing-Hi-Contrast-Aluminum-1794447/dp/B005XUHH5S
  
  wood chisel set
  https://www.amazon.com/Stanley-16-150-Short-3-Piece-Chisel/dp/B00002X1YO
  
  Demo hammer - This hammer is HEAVY but it will chew through just about anything. If you are gonna be doing demo work I strongly suggest getting one...and a big wrecking/demo bar also
  
  https://www.amazon.com/Jackson-Pulverizer-Concrete-Demolition-Hammer/dp/B002IKM6XO
  
  Heres that 11-in-1 scewdriver. i use this thing 99% of the time I need a manual screwdriver. I bought more just put one in my autos and one at work.
  
  https://www.amazon.com/Milwaukee-Electric-Tool-48-22-2114-Screwdriver/dp/B006WTK436
  
  I know I saved it for last...but don't forget safety gear. Glasses, face shield, gloves and if you are going to be doing dusty work or painting then get some breathing protection.
  
  

Great info, I appreciate it greatly! I've seen a few of Paul Sellers' videos on sharpening, so I'm not sure why they're called "scary sharpening", but it does look like it takes quite a bit of time, but I've got plenty of that while my wife and children are out of the country visiting relatives. I don't have an Aldi nearby, and they don't seem to sell from their web site, so I think I may be out of luck on those famous chisels. Every time I try to search for them online, I end up with links like this to Amazon, even when just looking for singles.

If plastic is sticking to your bed that badly you probably have the nozzle too close. I've got over 400 hours on my stock bed and it looks almost new.

I use a Stanley 1" folding chisel to remove my prints. It is razer sharp so you have to be careful not to cut yourself. It works good to remove brims from prints as well. https://www.amazon.com/Stanley-FMHT16145-FatMax-Folding-Pocket/dp/B00NOVP8KY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1550507124&sr=8-1&keywords=stanley+folding+chisel

As far as cleaning goes, I use Isopropyl Alcohol to clean my bed, usually every few prints, or if I'm printing something with fine details on the first layer. I actually just use some eyeglass cleaning wipes from Target, because that's what I had available and they work pretty well. You can get a box of 60 for $3.99, so that's like a 7 cent cost to clean the bed.

I'm looking to get into woodworking and just when I thought I had my starter tools picked out I got distracted! I have been looking at the Japanese style tools and I am mainly curious about if it would be possible to find a set of three or four general purpose ones for a price that is not so intimidating of an entry fee compared to all the premium handmade ones. I was planning on getting this 4 piece Narex set ..... I wouldn't want to go over $100 for a set and would be much more comfortable around $50 similar to the Narex ones. Since it is just my curiosity getting the better of me I would also be okay with getting a single Japanese chisel in a commonly used size with the intention of experimenting with the style.

​

I would also appreciate some small beginner project ideas! Don't have a ton of room for random chairs and all that nonsense to lay around so something small that helps me practice. I am interested in connecting wood with joins and dowels and using as few nails as possible.

You can make a huge variety of joints with just a few tools. This is close to what my toolset looked like when I cut my first dovetails.

Note: None of these are affiliate links. I don't get paid if you buy these.

$28 Dozuki "Z" saw
I prefer western style saws (like the Veritas saw /u/jbaird recommended), but you will be able to cut very nice joints with this:
https://www.amazon.com/Z-saw-07029-Dozuki-Z-Saw/dp/B001DSY7G6/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1495827959&sr=8-2&keywords=japanese+saw+dovetail

$14 Empire combination square
https://www.amazon.com/Empire-Level-E280-Professional-Combination/dp/B000EU0ZB0/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1495828208&sr=8-4&keywords=combination+square

$10 pocket knife for laying down lines:
https://www.amazon.com/Stanley-10-049-Pocket-Knife-Rotating/dp/B00002X201/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1495828775&sr=8-2&keywords=stanley+knife

$24 marking gauge:
https://www.amazon.com/Crown-152M-Miniature-Rosewood-Mortice/dp/B001V9KOSM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1495828829&sr=8-1&keywords=rosewood+gauge

$35 chisel:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004SG70L4/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1


You could also get:

$49 DMT coarse sharpening stone. Only sharpening stone you need. Get a strop eventually.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0001WP1L0/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

$5 Stanley Coping saw. Will help you remove dovetail waste.
https://www.amazon.com/Stanley-15-106-8-Inch-Length-4-Inch/dp/B00009OYG2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1495829310&sr=8-1&keywords=coping+saw

Provided you're gonna buy lumber that's already prepped, you should be good to go with the above. I'd suggest building things rather than 'practicing joinery'. You'll get plenty of joinery practice along the way :)

Great thanks. So I'll probably pull the trigger on the Veritas Carcass saw....

For the Narex chisels, I am assuming these will work.


However, also read that Lee Valley is a good place to grab them....and they are $62 for a set of 4. :D
Thanks for the advice

Thanks for asking the question because I was wondering about decent chisels on a budget. I'll probably pick up https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004TK0IG8/_encoding=UTF8?coliid=I1JK4X4CB9PRRD&colid=XSR4TUQ1ES94&psc=1 based on the recommendations. Hope the BF loves his gift whatever you get!

Alright I'll bite. Hand tool shop

Narex Chisels 48.99

stanley Jack plane 59.99

stanley Smoother 45.00

Stanley low angle Block plane 31.25

HF combo square 6.99

HF Mallet 5.99

Stanley jointer 150

Sharpening stone (water) 33

Panel saw 1 (cross) 19.50

Panel saw 2 (rip) 16.99

Marking gage 20

Dovetail saw 26.82

Vise 26.46

marking knife 9
Total cost so far: 500.97
shipping from ebay depends on where you are but shouldn't be more than $60 so we factor that in:
560.97

build your own bench (not going to take the time to go into details but it shouldn't cost more than $500 for materials
so now you have

999.03 left to get whever else you want (more marking gages? switch some of the above for better stuff? spoke shave? cabinet scraper? router plane? brace and bit?)

You could get better prices for the ebay stuff above if you were patient that's just what's out there right now. the above is more than enough to do 90% of handtool projects though. Just watch those compound curves ;)

I have multiple sets of chisels but I find I go back to my Stanley 750 (the modern ones) often. You can get a set of 4 for under 100 on amazon. Quality stuff. I use the Paul Sellers technique to chop mortises. I isn't as quick as some but it sure feels good once completed. Like reliving an ancient technique.

https://www.amazon.com/Stanley-16-791-Sweetheart-Socket-Chisel/dp/B004TK0IG8

It really depends on the type of work you're doing, if you're lucky enough to work with nicer materials and don't have to worry about materials that may or may not have nails and staples in it then putting some money down on a harder chisel is a fine idea, otherwise keep to the cheaper softer chisels since they're much easier to resharpen on the job. I enjoy using my Narex chisels https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00H6RD4PI/ref=psdcmw_553148_t2_B00GPC74ZQ relatively cheap and they stay sharp. All chisels are going to need honing, unless you put down some serious money, and no matter what chisels you buy, honing and sharpening is part of it as they're used.

There are a lot of different types of chisels out there. If your set on chisels, I would recommend the chisel set .



A more universal present would be a mallet. This one from Blue Spruce is the epitome of quality craftsmanship. It’s too impractical for most to buy themselves, but as a gift it would be treasured for a lifetime.

https://bluesprucetoolworks.com/products/round-mallet

I feel it important to mention that, while the set you suggested is definitely high quality, it is meant for different materials and uses than the kind of knives OP originally bought.

If OP is learning a particular style or wants that particular kind of tool, There are lots of other good potential sets they can buy:

Example Beginner's Set

Example Intermediate Set

I got started with something very similar to the beginner's set, and my teacher thought those were fine to carve in yew and see if I liked it as a hobby.

There's a few good videos to watch on YouTube. Here is a one I found useful

There's multiple tools that you can use, but I've found these two to be indispensable for the job.

Carving knife

Gouge

I also used a spokeshave and a hook knife. I didn't find the hook knife to be all that useful though. Another way to shape the outside of the spoon is with a belt/disc sander. I found that to be a quick, although very messy, way to get the rough shape I wanted. Then I'd clean it up with the spokeshave and knife. Sand it up to 400 or more then finish with a food safe product like howards butcher block conditioner

Interesting read on the chisel. I was actually looking at these http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000RG2Y56?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=ox_sc_act_title_2&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER


but they are plastic handle and made in China.. which Im not too excited about. Maybe it makes sense for me to just invest in a nice Stanley 750 1/2 inch vintage chisel on Ebay in really good condition and start with that?

Which stanley's are you looking at? I have these and I love them. I prefer the handle shape/size of these over the narex. Both have great reviews. I never considered the Irwin chisels because I didn't like the handle.

I use Stanley Sweethearts and they're great.

​

https://www.amazon.com/Stanley-16-791-Sweetheart-Socket-Chisel/dp/B004TK0IG8

Okay I'm going to give it another shot this weekend with the 3/4" stock I have. I have these narex chisels. Should these work?

Ha ha yeah mdf and oil/moisture don't really mix but the boxes look nice!

I know this pain, and the solution I came up with is a flat chisel, as wide as possible (such as this). With it's wide, sharp edge it's somewhat easy to keep it flat against the buildplate, and sharp enough to get under to lift a corner. Once a small gap has been made, I use flat spatula to do the rest.

I find this works really well for me, where a knife or other sharp implements easily scratches the surface, and the spatula isn't sharp enough to get under in the first place.

I just started getting into woodworking and bought this set which is a cheaper version of #1 :
https://www.amazon.com/Narex-Republic-Woodworking-Chisels-863010/dp/B00GPC74ZQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1485379559&sr=8-1&keywords=aldi+chisels

I then sharpened them following Paul Sellers video using sandpaper and I'm very happy. I contemplated getting #1 instead of these for a while but went the cheaper route so I could turn that $15 into other tools.

Once they were sharp it made quick work of some pine I had. Will be trying on some hardwoods tonight, so hopefully I'm still happy.

There's a Wood River 4-piece set that is like $60 (http://www.woodcraft.com/product/152169/woodriver-4-piece-butt-chisel-set.aspx) that regularly goes on sale at woodcraft for like $25 or $30, it's a great beginner set.

The cheapy Aldi chisels Paul Sellers loves (https://paulsellers.com/2015/06/aldi-chisels-in-usa-stores/) are also pretty decent, but in the US Aldi only seems to have stores in the east coast area.

Then there's Narex, the quality os comparable to Wood River, and they're on Amazon. The downside is finding a set for sub-$40, the 4-piece set is regularly around $50: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00H6RD4PI/

Hey man, looks way better than anything I could build at 15. But since you're asking for some constructive criticism, I'll give a few suggestions.

The one thing I really don't like is the screws on the bottom legs. There are lots of different ways to do this, with varying levels of difficulty.

First would be just counter sinking the screw then filling the hole with wooden buttons. You can pick up a usable set of counter sink bits at harbor freight for $7

Second might be pocket holes. You can get a jig for ~40 bucks. Honestly, this might not be the best option for you. For the price, you could get a lot of other more useful tools.

Third might be a [mortise and tenon joint] (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aBodzmUGtdw&t=3s). You can make these by hand with a decent hand saw and some chisels, and square. But it its very hard to do without a vise, which is pricey. Also takes a bit more effort and skill. You can also make them with power tools.


You could have made the cutouts for the seat slats a little cleaner. If you get a combo square and chisels. You don't need fancy chisels. These are decent starter chisels if you learn [how to sharpen] (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ki8tt-VjwqI).

Narex chisels are the best bang for the buck if you ask me. https://www.amazon.com/Narex-Republic-Woodworking-Chisels-863010/dp/B00GPC74ZQ. This is a nice starter set. As others have said, keep them sharp and they will last you a long, long time.

http://www.amazon.com/Stanley-16-791-Sweetheart-Socket-Chisel/dp/B004TK0IG8 shoot the price went up on them by about 10 dollars since i last bought them, but they're very good chisels to have. You really don't need a full set of 8 of them.

i'd recommend getting the 1/8th http://www.amazon.com/Stanley-16-781-Sweetheart-Socket-Chisel/dp/B004TQGHOE/ref=pd_sim_469_2/188-9502197-5612530?ie=UTF8&dpID=21S6-4OQCyL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=18XVZDRFP6Q1YPHKAX8G
chisel too for getting into tight little corners and what not.

theyre OK but not great. I still use one of the larger ones (2") since I haven't found a decent old one yet.

at 9-10 bucks each; you are better getting a set like these. https://www.amazon.com/Narex-Republic-Woodworking-Chisels-863010/dp/B00GPC74ZQ

I got mine by picking up 1-2 vintage ones at a time from ebay

I use a chisel with the flat side up and use it like a prybar. Works great.

Came here to mention these Stanley chisels I got on Amazon, which I've been surprisingly happy with.

This is easy!!!

Stanley Bailey chisel set in a nice leather satchel, and a two sided whetstone .

Before this goes to archive, and with the caveat that I've never used it, nor even thought of wanting a "sharpened prybar" while camping, nor was entirely sure of what you were originally asking for when you posted this, I will suggest:

https://www.amazon.com/Stanley-FMHT16145-FatMax-Folding-Pocket/dp/B00NOVP8KY/

I've had generally good results with Stanley tools. It's currently at $15 on amazon and got generally favorable reviews on youtube. It's advertised as being something you can hammer on directly with a metal hammer.

I may just pick it up for a trial.

not a solution to your problem but buy a cabinet scraper. you can take down high spots cleanly and easily and without screwing up the parts like sandpaper can.

https://youtu.be/UPaurVTtTfk?t=3m28s


https://www.amazon.com/Crown-Hand-Tools-Rectangular-375/dp/B012M9H8UG/ref=sr_1_2?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1480706339&sr=1-2&keywords=cabinet+scraper

By hand tools do you mean chisels, planes and saws or power hand tools like a random orbit sander..

I would think a good set of chisels should be on the list even if you want to mostly use power tools

A good idea is to find a project and then get the tools to build that project, with a table saw and jigsaw you can make most any straight or curved cuts but you'll need boards that are flat and square (getting a planer, buying pre-dimensioned stock)

Oh, this again, the Sellers hype. All Paul was doing was to show you can make them work reasonably if you have more time than money, but they are inferior, you are better off with some Narex chisels, much much better, a set of four for under $50, can't beat that with a stick. https://www.amazon.com/Narex-Premium-Chisels-Hornbeam-Handles/dp/B00H6RD4PI

My father in law gave me a set of Narex for Christmas last year. They have been a great set of starter chisels for me. This is the set I have:

Narex (Made in Czech Republic) 4 pc set 6mm (1/4"), 12 (1/2"), 20 (3/4") , 26 (1 1/16") mm Woodworking Chisels 863010 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GPC74ZQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_lbgwCbF0AGCB0

This knife:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00T3ES1SC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Cheap, great at getting underneath a print and breaking it off the bed, also good at cutting off small defects on prints. It's not so sharp that you're going to harm yourself easily either.

Also consider getting some duPont connectors and a crimper, as well as a decent soldering iron(TS100 is awesome!) and wire cutter/strippers. Needle nose pliers, short pliers, snippers, angled cutters.

These are Stanley Baileys. They're my first set of real chisels. They come sharp enough to use (at least for me) and come in a beautiful leather tool roll.

Stanley 16-401 Bailey Chisel Set, 5-Piece https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003HGH3W2/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_awd_XPbJwb305X3EY

Huge fan.

I've done everything from split wood for firewood, to getting, skinning, and butchering an entire deer a deer using a $14 mora.

Recently I got one of these and use it on just about every project Morakniv Craftline Carpentry Chisel with Carbon Steel Blade, 3.0-Inch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00T3ES1SC?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

Narex Chisels

Porter Cable Forstner Bit Set

Eclipse Coping Saw

Countersink Wood Drill Bits

Narex Marking Knife

Bessey F-Clamps from Home Depot. 4 pack for like $20.

Bessey 3/4" pipe clamps from Home Depot. $12-ish. Black pipe is about $1 a foot.

Narex offers tons of value. They are quality products and affordable. Narex Chisels

Here is a chisel sharpening video for your reference.

Here is a chisel sharpening prep video for your reference.

You most likely know this but it can't hurt to have a refresher.

Maybe something like this?

https://www.amazon.com/Morakniv-Craftline-Carpentry-Chisel-3-0-Inch/dp/B00T3ES1SC/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1496504611&sr=8-1-fkmr0&keywords=Morakniv+Mora+Pro+Series+Chisel+Knife+12250

Or maybe this:

https://www.amazon.com/Victorinox-One-Hand-Trekker-German-Multi-Tool/dp/B001B197RE/ref=pd_sim_468_21?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B001B197RE&pd_rd_r=NGM76YRDSPGV47SFSB5H&pd_rd_w=by7YG&pd_rd_wg=rxjyS&psc=1&refRID=NGM76YRDSPGV47SFSB5H

I just ordered these after some of the reviews for them being a good chisel for the money.

http://www.amazon.com/Narex-Republic-Premium-Chisels-Hornbeam/dp/B00H6RD4PI/ref=pd_cp_hi_0

You could also go with these for a little less.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GPC74ZQ/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_S_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=2YB4RTPHDX5A5&coliid=I1T0JYFCYL2C55

These narex chisels are a good option.

What's your budget look like? I ordered this 5 pack off Amazon for $70 and I couldn't be happier with them.

I really like my Erwin Marples set. IRWIN Marples Woodworking Chisel Set, 6 Piece, M444SB6N https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000RG2Y56/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_eUeeAbXWX74SE

This is the chisel set I'm heavily considering. Would also appreciate recommendations from experienced guys/gals.

https://www.amazon.com/Stanley-16-791-Sweetheart-Socket-Chisel/dp/B004TK0IG8

Hopefully this works.
https://www.amazon.com/Irwin-Tools-Marples-Woodworking-M444SB6N/dp/B000RG2Y56/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1542902328&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=marples+chisel+set&dpPl=1&dpID=51gaBP8OZgL&ref=plSrch

Are these acceptable Narex chisels or not?

As for tools: I was thinking a cheap chisel set off amazon (poor-isn college student, so recommendations on this would be nice). I was also looking into a router plane in order to make a flat, recessed surface for the tiles.

Would these tools at amazon be comparable to the ones you listed?

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B008349HCC

They look really similar - just not sure if quality be same. I was looking at some netsuke carving - these looks amazing and they do require harder wood. Recently i tried carving crow from monument valley out of hard ebony wood and i damaged my felxcut knife.

https://www.amazon.com/Narex-Republic-Woodworking-Chisels-863010/dp/B00GPC74ZQ/ref=sr_1_4?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1483244140&sr=1-4&keywords=chisel

These? They seem to be of similar quality as the Aldi chisels that Paul Seller's recommended, but they are much more expensive.

Same one on Amazon for $70: http://www.amazon.com/Stanley-16-401-Bailey-Chisel-5-Piece/dp/B003HGH3W2

I think I got my Japanese steel, gouge with an outside bevel off Amazon for about $20. It's from Grizzly.

https://www.amazon.com/Grizzly-G7956-Japanese-Gouge-1-Inch/dp/B0000DD6UA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1481500295&sr=8-1&keywords=grizzly+japanese+gouge

Here's a Mora that has a similar chisel dealio if you just want to try the geometry!

Pues todo me dura la semana, lo de rebanar y picar es un ritual que hago los domingos y me toma como 30 minutos en total, y si se me echa a perder una zanahoria no big deal, estan super baratas

Para el coco tengo un cinsel para trabajar madera, sale devolada en menos de 5 minutos y no se hace tanto pedo, y lo corto en cuadritos, no me gusta el coco rallado de las reposterias pero supongo que puede funcionar, aguas con el azucar que le ponen si tu intencion es tambien bajar de peso.

It's these. I've been dying to play around with them but my "bench" doesn't like it when I hammer on it.

Morakniv Craftline Carpentry Chisel with Carbon Steel Blade, 3.0-Inch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00T3ES1SC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_pCVJAbEC9P0P7

I have not tried them but check this.

Or something in between perhaps https://www.amazon.com/Narex-Republic-Woodworking-Chisels-863010/dp/B00GPC74ZQ

If you're willing to go up to $39, how about some chisels?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GPC74ZQ/

Mora has one;)

https://www.amazon.com/Morakniv-Craftline-Carpentry-Chisel-3-0-Inch/dp/B00T3ES1SC

Chisel

here’s another one

Now you just need the chisel one

Instead of the short carving knife you could grind it into a shorter version of this
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00T3ES1SC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Lg1nzbBD2B67N

I use mine constantly.

They have Stanley 750 series stamped on them. http://www.amazon.com/Stanley-16-791-Sweetheart-Series-Socket/dp/B004TK0IG8

Here you go.

These are about the same price and should do everything you need for the most part. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GPC74ZQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_VOemybFFCNFPY

for the money these cant be beat IMHO>http://www.amazon.com/Narex-Republic-Premium-Chisels-Hornbeam/dp/B00H6RD4PI/ref=sr_1_2?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1427396516&sr=1-2&keywords=Narex+4+pc+set

what do you guys think about Stanley Bailey 5 piece set for $65, plus Stanley is doing $10 off when you spend $50 (use STANLEY at checkout) link

I currently have three chisels (1", 1/2", and 3/8") that I have been trying to restore but are still in rough shape and weren't great chisels to begin with

I just started as well using only hand tools. Hopefully this helps in some way. Don't hate me if it doesn't.

So far here is what I've collected:

• A few cheap hand saws from Lowe's
  
• Chisels
  
• Stanley No. 5 plane
  
• Sharpener
  
• Steel ruler
  
• Swanson speed square
  
• 4 x Jorgensen 50 Pony 3/4-Inch Pipe Clamp Fixture (with 6 ft pipe bought separately)
  
• 12" bar clamp
  
• 24" bar clamp
  
• Titebond II wood glue
  
  Note - I have no idea if that knife sharpener is correct to use with the chisels and plane. I'm only using the fine stone and it seems to work, but I have no idea what I'm doing in that department.
  
  This seems to cover the basics for me. I'm about halfway through a desk project and struggling, but I think that's user error more than the tools. More clamps and a better workspace would work wonders.