Reddit mentions: The best f-pin-coaxial tip cables

Your best case scenario would be to wire it into the same Google WiFi puck that is plugged into the modem. The second best scenario is if any of your two remote Wifi nodes were wired to the first, main node, then plugging your Xbox into one of those would mean your Xbox is basically wired directly to your modem.

As for anything else, it will depend on how good the wireless antennas are. However in my experience, I've found the wireless antennas on the Google WiFi pucks to be much better than any other common devices (phones, computer, consoles) for pretty obvious reasons.

So unless your Xbox One has amazing antennas that can beat a router, your second best option would be to plug you Xbox directly into one of the two remote nodes, which will basically be acting like a super WiFi antenna for your Xbox.

But, I'm a gamer too, and I feel your pain and also share you enthusiasm for trying to improve it. Here are some more general tips that can improve your internet even more 😁

1. Let's start FREE. When playing on your Xbox, open up the Google Wifi app and make your Xbox the "priority device" for an hour or two. Other people browsing the web or watching Netflix won't notice, as if their connection is a little spottier, nothing really changes. Netflix still has few minutes of buffering ahead, so if it drops for a split second or two, nothing happens. For gaming, you'll feel every one of those same drops as lag.
   
2. In the Google Wifi app settings, enable IPV6! Your ISP might not support it yet, but if not, nothing changes. If they do support it, awesome! Goodbye DNS issues, and hello speed improvements! I believe the Xbox One also supports IPV6, just check to see if it's also an optional setting or on by default. Sorry PS4 users, still IPV4 only :(
   
3. Another obvious one, but turn off every device you aren't using while gaming. Set any PC's in your house to download their automatic updates at a time you aren't gaming. Cut down on the number of cordless phones and other 2.4GHz devices in your house. Keep other device's cables away from the pucks and Ethernet cables. Just do other similar things in that same line of thought.
   
4. Move your pucks around. See if you can make improvements, the app can rate how strong the connection is. See if different places can achieve "Great" vs "Good" for strength. Try to avoid having a microwave between them. Try having them out in the open as possible, instead of behind a TV or inside a desk.
   
5. For every part of your setup that IS wired, such as from the modem to the first puck and your Xbox to any puck, upgrade to CAT7 Ethernet cable at the shortest length actually needed. (Before I go forward and people throw shade, yes CAT7 is probably overkill for most people, but we're talking about gaming, overkill is in). Here's a link my recommendation of a proven, low price CAT7.
   
6. OP has DSL, but for anyone that has Cable, same logic as last point, but for your Coax cables. Here is a quad shielded Coax cable. OP maybe see if there is such a thing as shielded phone line?
   
7. Another thing for cable users: BUY YOUR OWN MODEM! First off, it pretty much pays for itself as a lot of cable companies are charging you every month for renting your modem. For Comcast/Xfinity, buying your own modem instantly cuts $10 off your monthly bill, forever. Your modem pays for itself in less than a year. But besides the savings, how can it help gaming? Well, you can buy yourself a modem with a lot of "channels". Think of channels as number of water pipes coming into your house, but for internet signal. Right now your modem might have 4-8. If your neighbors are all using the internet too, they might get congested. If your modem supported 32 channels, your pull would be much more distributed and you might see a more consistent, less congested internet. Here is my personal recommended modem of choice but if that's too pricey, downgrade to the model that only has 16 channels, SB6183. OP, again I don't have DSL, but do some research to see if buying your own modem device can improve your connection, or at the least save you money if you are "renting" from your ISP.
   
   Hopefully that all helps you, and you can enjoy some lag-free gaming!

...For those environments, with substantial grounding work done, these products can prevent direct lightning bolt damages (for the most part). However, if you want an a low latency (<=1ns) and unlimited capacity (akin to joules), then the BEST option is a BUNCH of avalanche diodes, in a series. This is what ZeroSurge/BrickWall/SurgeX (and some others) make (they also make MOV-based btw, so read the product descriptions carefully!). The avalanche diode ability to react at lower voltages (akin to the clamping voltage for MOVs) is also stellar, as I've read some reviews (by [WireCutter](https://thewirecutter.com/reviews/best-surge-protector/)) achieving cut-offs of surges past 140v (recall: 120v is the desired voltage for most of North America) and they'll last virtually forever (there are no MOVs to burn out, thus no joules). They're hopeless against direct lightning bolts however, so just be clear about that. With enough of them in series though, unless your home is the preferred path of least resistance underground, then lightning bolts a half mile away or more should be totally fine, I'd think. Depends on how many are used in the device, after all. Similarly, you can get stellar results with a series of high-capacity MOVs, but they'll never achieve the <=1ns latencies. So, what are you worried about? That's the question you have to answer. I think a highly rated MOV or stellar number of avalanche diodes are both great solutions, with the latter requiring no upkeep (no need to replace MOVs, because there are none), but typically costing way more. Personally, I think the real winner is the avalanche diodes in sequence. For a video from a vendor (read: biased, but still informative) [watch a MOV vs AD surge demonstration](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RixUrc-FRcM).

2. Beyond these topics of protection are functionality. I'm not referring to the number / spacing of ports (although important), but rather filtering. When looking at UPS+SP hybrids, you'll see some offering sinewave protection - you want this, if you plan on streaming audio or experiencing static in audio you play (or are worried you will). However, they won't necessarily filter all electricity, likely just when operating off of the UPS' battery. Which brings the next topic of UPS - how does it bring power to your devices? There are three methods, but two most common approaches are: A) Outlet charges battery and devices, but switches to battery mode when the outlet goes out. B) Outlet charges battery, which in turn powers devices. The former may result in a brief "flicker" (or complete device turn off, if very old or extremely sensitive, not something most people should experience). Frankly, I feel the latter is over-kill (and due to extra heat from power conversions it means you'll have an always-on fan running, which could be loud to you, depending on placement). I state it's over-kill because, frankly, if your power goes out, if, in the worst likely case of a monitor flicker, you'll have just received a visual notification that your power went out and you may want to investigate everything is fine. Better UPS devices should raise an audible alarm, but it's a nice 2nd catch if it doesn't work. Plus, if you're maxing out the wattage on your computer setup, then your batteries might only last 2 minutes, so you probably need every second of that reminder to save your work and gracefully shutdown! Finally, there are some extra features to consider, such as USB ports, coaxial cable ports, and landline telephone ports (they're not able to support the high-speeds of Ethernet like you'd want for watching netflix or playing games, so don't try that!). The USB ports are simply a "nice to have" for some (if you plan to have it within reach, as opposed to tucked behind a desk/couch, because USB wires aren't rated to work when run very far, fyi), while the other two are certainly things you use. Having surge protection on your coaxial cable and/or landline ports may help with some surges, but various people have studied this and concluded it offers no real benefits, because this has to do with surges from outside your home (e.g. lightning strikes), which are already too intense. However, you CAN resolve the coaxial surge for as cheap as \~$5 if you ground it directly to the earth with a device like [this](https://www.amazon.com/Ground-Weather-Perfect-Vision-PVGB1HFWS/dp/B075J32VFK) or (even better) [this](https://www.amazon.com/TII-Broadband-Satellite-Lightning-Protector/dp/B0016AIYU6). Sadly, apartment owners with bad landlords may be out of luck. Credit for the aforementioned product ideas goes to the commenter "always-learning" on the WireCutter article I linked-to earlier. He goes into WAY more detail about all things surge-protection, than even I do in this verbose post. He also addresses how some zip codes will have laws requiring companies (e.g. Comcast) to install these grounding blocks at apartments and houses, so it may have already been done for you (or you can try calling and asking). If you understood everything I just wrote, then go read his comments and have your mind blown further! He's clearly a 100x more knowledgeable than I am. Here's a snippet: "*J. Rudy Harford invented Series Mode Filters and holds several patents for it. He improved upon the technology twice with Wide Voltage (operating) range and Total Surge Cancellation (TSC) Technology. Harford also started his company called Zero Surge, Inc (which makes the Brickwall Series Mode Filters). In the early days Zero Surge also made the SurgeX products. SurgeX licenses the technology from Harford. One has to give SurgeX credit for mass marketing Series Mode filters. Their Advanced Series Mode filter technology is TSC (no difference), but SurgeX also adds ICE (inrush current elimination) as well as COUVS (Catastrphic Over/Under Voltage cuttoff) technology to many of their products that are geared for audiophiles or professional concert venues, etc ... You can't go wrong with products from either of the 2 companies (3 brands). If you want new Zero Surge contact them at their factory. Ask to speak to Donna especially if you want a price on their TSC models (it may be cheaper than a used SA-15).*"

I am sure you could get this done but it could be a fight.

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first provide your www.tvfool.com report because if your signals are low its going to be tougher

try to go to google maps and click on the top of the hill where you want to place the antenna

this will display your coordinates for that location

if you will use a tower then add that height when entering your TVFool Coordinates Location.

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This will spit back all of the towers in your area and their signal levels.

Hopefully by placing it on a small tower on top of the hill you should get good signals above 35nmdb

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Obviously you will be wanting to use the strongest antenna and a preamplifier at the antenna to boost the signals at their best strength down to your home.. at that point you will probably need to amplify those signals again by using an inline distribution amplifier.

the problem you will have is

is your raw signal strength strong enough at the antenna.

how will you get power up to your preamplifier at the antenna.

how will you deal with the coax cable run from the antenna to your home

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what MGSsancho was hitting on is standard coax has a thin center copper element it is RG6.

because it is thinner it causes more attenuation .. like a garden hose RG6 vs a fire hose RG11

So you could upgrade to a RG11 Cable that is rated for Direct Burial so you could bury the cable from the antenna to the house. It is pretty expensive so you need to look around for the best deal. Maybe a local electrical supply house or an online electrical supply house

but this is the stuff

https://www.amazon.com/Coaxial-Tri-Shield-Underground-Flooded-CableProof/dp/B01NBVG96R

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There is some insanely expensive cable called LMR-400-75 which is 75ohm compatible for tv signals but its $2+ per foot i think .. but it only has about 1db of loss per 100 feet which is pretty tiny considering.. I really don't think you would need it but it is out there to be used.

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you can probably get by with RG11 or maybe even RG6 but you would need a

channel master 7777 30db preamplifier at the antenna

and maybe another distribution amplifier 8db at your home.

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Amping is really not great for signal quality but when you have no other choice you have to do it.

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and then you would want a full sized 110 inch 9 foot antenna .. the big ones .. on at least some type of small tower .. maybe 20 feet .. with a clear direct site like a red dot .. to the broadcast towers..

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this stuff does get done

I have a 350+ foot tower near my home (not mine) .. that is reaching the limits of attenuation but you know..

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I don't think RG11 is an option like MGSsancho says though its network cable not antenna cable.

however what you could do if you could get a waterproof box up at the antenna is install a SiliconDust Tuner right at the antenna and then run Network Cable or fiber from that box to your house to your router and then use a device at your tv to connect to the silicondust tuner

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but lets not jump ahead ... do you have good TVFool Signals at your home up on that hill.. you might not have decent signals even up there so it could be a waste of money and effort.

remember to use your coordinates when entering your location

Yeah, I bet I know what happened. I'm guessing you probably don't want to wait around on Comcast to fix this? Comcast's tap down at the road is probably fine but there's a decent chance that the lightning fried a splitter in your house. Does Comcast lock the house box in your area? It's your wiring, and you're on the hook for anything that happens to it, but some cable companies are douches and will try to keep you out of the house box. Open up that box and you'll see two things, the cable from the street goes into a device that grounds the outside and connects with a copper wire to the ground rod for your electric service, and a splitter or two hooking up to all of the outlets around your house. With any luck, those two things will be separate, that'll make it simpler. The splitter can be used as a ground block, and there's nothing wrong with that, but we want a separate ground block so we can use a lightning arrestor.

As for the lightning arrestor, TII makes a good one. Really you just want to grab one of the gas tube lightning arrestors, and make sure it's one that has a ground connection on it, not one that just uses the jacket for a ground. This is what you'll probably see grounding your cable right now, you basically just replace this device with the lightning arrestor.

As for the splitter, you may find one, you might have 2 or 3, it depends on the house and how it was set up. You probably have a failed splitter, it's pretty simple to replace but make sure that you replace any splitters with the exact same type of splitter that it had originally. So if there's 2 2 way splitters, don't just replace it with a 3 way splitter and call it good. You want to keep the signal levels where they're currently at. Each splitter essentially splits the incoming signal evenly across the ports so when it was set up the cable installer might have set it up such that your internet connection is on the line that goes straight to a 2 way splitter connected back to the ground block with any TVs hooked up to a 4 way splitter under that 2 way splitter. For TV, you don't have to worry about signal strength balancing too much unless you have like 8 or 10 outlets all around your house, in which case you would probably need an amplifier. The important thing is that your internet connection needs to get the same amount of signal that it's getting now. So if it's getting 25%, less could cause service issues. Counterintuitively, more signal could also cause service issues, just keep it the same, because getting it right might not be easy to measure with your modem and it's more complicated. Just look in the box and go to Lowes or Home Depot or something like that and get an identical splitter. You don't have satellite so as long as the splitter is good for 5MHz to 1000MHz you're fine.

Also, you need all of this to be weatherproof and while the enclosure will keep out rain it won't keep out all moisture. If you take any weather seals off the old splitter or ground block, put them back on the new splitter exactly how you took them off. If the splitter is currently being used as a ground block, you'll need to separate this out to put in the lightning arrestor so don't forget that you need another short coax cable. Make sure it's at least RG-6 and don't just grab a long one, it's not going to fit, You want something real short like just 6 inches. Unfortunately, you're going to have a tough time finding a tiny coax cable since pretty much no one ever needs them. What the professionals do is just make the cable, it's really quite easy once you get the hang of it, and usefull if you ever want to do stuff like add an outlet in a particular room without having to pay an arm and a leg to Comcast or someone else. If you want to make your own cables, you need the tools to do so. Don't get any crimp on tools, they're garbage connectors and they'll frequently pull right out. All of the professionals just use compression connectors, they're only a little pricier, but they actually make a decent termination which is never going to happen with crimp connectors. You need a compression tool, a coax stripper (not strictly necessary, but if you're doing more than a single connection it's totally worth it), and some decent sidecutters or linesman pliers, or even just any old wire stripper. So long as you aren't just trying to use some kitchen scissors it'll work fine. Then for the cable itself you can buy a spool of RG-6 for ~$30 and then just make sure that whatever compression connectors you get are made for the cable you're using so don't try to use regular RG-6 connectors for quad shielded RG-6. Also, you can get quad shielded RG-6, it's better for noise, but I'd recommend against it, certainly if you've never messed with coax before. You'd also need a special tool to prep the cable with quad shielded RG-6 whereas it's just optional with regular RG-6. Really it's optional with quad shielded, but it's such a pain that I wouldn't want to deal with it without it.

Really what it boils down to is that first, replace the busted splitter or call Comcast to do it. Then replace the ground block with a lightning arrestor and if you need a 6" cable, just buy it off Amazon if you don't want to learn how to install coax elsewhere in your house as well. There's also the chance that Comcast's equipment fried so you might wanna just say screw it, call Comcast and have them fix the busted splitter or their equipment.

The following are the tools I used to add a new cable line for MoCA to an old room on my land:

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*NOTE: THIS SETUP DOES NOT APPLY TO A FIOS SERVICE PROVIDER.*

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(optional) MoCA POE Filter for Cable TV Coaxial Networking - This goes onto the incoming COAX Cable. Sometimes your provider does use the same frequency as the MoCA signal to manage with its devices. So This makes sure that your signal is safe to use, and doesn't interfere with your providers own management. This is optional because it depends on your layout. If you live in an apartment complex or area with multiple houses connected (wall to wall) , I HIGHLY recommend you purchase this to prevent your neighbors from receiving and possibly connecting to your network. You should connect this as follows: |Incoming COAX > MoCA POE Filter|

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2-Way Coax Cable Splitter Bi-Directional MoCA - This allowed me to split my incoming cable so that I can reuse the same line leading to the outside of my house. You can also use it if all your lines are internal, but I digress. It allows you to split and connect multiple rooms (while being safe for MoCA signals). Ideally it goes: | Incoming COAX > MoCA POE Filter > MoCA Cable Splitter > Every room you want connected (including router) |

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MOTOROLA MOCA Adapter for Ethernet Over Coax, 1,000 Mbps Bonded 2.0 - This is what you use to connect both ( or more) ends of the MoCA network. At the end of it all, this is how your network should look:

The internet comes into your house via | Incoming Coax > MoCA POE Filter > MoCA Cable Splitter > COAX Cable leading to MoCA Adapter > MoCA Adapter > Modem > Router (WAN port). |

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At this point your router is connected to the internet. The connection to the rest of your house is a follows: | Router via LAN port > MoCA Adapter that's connecting to your Modem > MoCA signal travels down your internet Coax > returns to the MoCA Cable Splitter > Coax split from cable splitter, leading to other section of house > MoCA Adapter > Device or switch |

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(optional) QUAD SHIELD SOLID COPPER 3GHZ RG-6 Coax Cable - I needed to order cable because the room I connected had no coax leading to it. If you need to buy cable, make sure you measure the distance away from the splitter, BASED ON the path you plan to lay the COAX cable on. Then add a few feet "just in case". If you don't need to run new cable, this is a non issue, and can be safely not purchased. Also, this particular cable was not pre-terminated, so I had to terminate and crimp the ends myself which may not be for everyone. Pre-made cables are available, albeit a bit more expensive.

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(optional) Waterproof Connectors Crimping Tool - This is the tool I used to crimp my COAX cable. If you don't need to terminate your own cables, you don't need to buy this tool.

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(optional) Rotary Drill Bit - I only needed this because I had to drill in from the outside (old house). You may also need to use this if you have to add a new hole in your wall, for a brand new coax connection. Needless to say, this is optional.

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(optional) Coaxial Wall Plate - I used this to add the coax cable to my wall. It makes it look nice but isn't "technically" necessary. Use it as you see fit.

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(optional) 3ft BLACK QUAD SHIELD SOLID COPPER 3GHZ RG-6 Coaxial Cable - This connects the coax wall plate to the branched off network (and devices) Use as you see fit.

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*NOTE: THIS SETUP DOES NOT APPLY TO A FIOS SERVICE PROVIDER.*

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If you have any questions, let me know. all the items I listed above can be swapped out for cheaper or more locally accessible items at will. Just be sure yo do your research first.

Let me break this down for how easy this is.
Buy yourself an Ideal Wire Stripper(https://www.amazon.com/Ideal-45-605-Preppro-Coaxial-Stripper/dp/B008KOZYWC/ref=sr_1_2?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1526791144&sr=1-2&keywords=Ideal+coaxial+stripper). I use this at my work. Has Ethernet and Coaxial stripper bits. It's super easy with this, as with the RJ59 (coaxial) stripper, you place the end of the wire in the stripper (theres a end part, so easy to line up)

You spin this two-three times one way, then spin it the other way. Bam. Congrats, you just stripped one end.

Now you just pull off the black or wire plastic sheath, along with the white insulator, exposing a coaxial wire on the tip, and slip off the plastic sheath on the second bit that was stripped. You'll find yourself with a stepped-down end, with some copper wire mesh. Use your fingers to pull it back away from the coaxial. Make sure none of them are touching that bad boy anymore.

Make sure you get yourself a compression tool too, and some F-type connectors. I use this one at work, and it has different bits for different connectors
https://www.amazon.com/Universal-Crimping-Tool-Compression-Connectors/dp/B01MRDAP62/ref=sr_1_6?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1526791340&sr=1-6&keywords=Ideal+coaxial+compression

And some male F-Connectors:
https://www.amazon.com/Klein-Tools-VDV812-606-Universal-Compression/dp/B008C7ZCCO/ref=sr_1_6?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1526791378&sr=1-6&keywords=f+compression+connectors

Then you're gonna push that bad boy onto the end of your stripped coaxial, giving it a twist as you push down to make sure that bad boy gets seated all the way. Then we're gonna pop it into the compression tool, give it a gentle squeeze till it's fully compressed. With the tool above, you'll have to adjust it to the proper distance, but it's as easy as turning the adjustment knob. Do it bit by bit until it extends JUST far enough to compress your connector, but doesnt crush it (Or you can get the fancy ones that aren't adjustable and are much smaller like this: https://www.amazon.com/Klein-Tools-VDV212-008-SEN-F-Connector-Compression/dp/B002KWZCR2/ref=sr_1_5?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1526791378&sr=1-5&keywords=f+compression+connectors)

Congrats! You've terminated your first coaxial cable. It's exactly the same for BNC connectors if you want to set up security cameras for your house, except thats with Siamese cable, which includes a bonded DC pair of wires for providing power.

Now get to the other end of your cable, once you've got it to where you want it to go and repeat the process. Congrats! You have learned a new skill!

Or if you want a tl;dr, you could always watch this video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rWFDIf5UCHk

I literally just put this one on the jeep as there's only like 1 other place you put it without having to make a custom bracket.

The bracket actually works pretty well for the placement of the antenna. I really didn't want to drill into the cab, which you don't necessarily have to, but it does provide for much more stability. Just align the bracket up a few times and use a sharpie to mark the hole and you should be fine.

Keep in mind that you should have an antenna at least 1/3 of its length past the jeep roof to get a good reception. With this bracket a 4' tall antenna works great.

Get the spring as I have known multiple people that have ripped their antenna off, offroading.

Also the bracket does not have a stud to connect the antenna cable so you will need that as well.

This is everything I purchased that works great:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002HRBSU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000QB917Q/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00042LC9M/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001JT0CGI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/Uniden-40-Channel-CB-Radio-PRO505XL/dp/B005ZLB0E4/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1487660806&sr=1-2&keywords=Cb+radio

Sure thing. This sub doesn't seem to be overly active so if you have any more questions or run into trouble, you might want to ask them over in /r/amateurradio. It's really the only place on the internet where hams hang out that don't seem to mind answering CB radio questions.

I'm not sure what your budget is but you may want to look at this meter instead. The one you linked is just fine but this one also shows power output and not just reflected power like the one you linked. If you really want to get into it, you could also purchase a dummy load for accurately testing power. There are several out there for CB use. I think Workman also makes one along with a company called Opek that also makes CB-related gear. Since your average, off-the-shelf 100% legal radio puts out 4 watts on AM and 12 watts on SSB, you'd need one that can handle that amount of power. Ideally, you'd want one that will handle more than you can put into it, so something like a 25-50w+ load would work just fine. That being said, I've used one of these before with a CB radio and it worked well. I just wouldn't throw a bunch of power into it for a long time, which isn't something you'd likely be doing anyways unless you crank the power up in the radio (don't do that) or purchase an amplifier (ditto). You don't necessarily need a dummy load but it might be nice to have just for testing purposes in case you're not 100% sure that radio actually works.

Also, don't forget to purchase a short (3-6ft) jumper to hook the meter to the radio. There are several on Amazon and some folks may sell a package deal made up of a meter and a jumper. Here's an example, although the shipping for it as more than the item itself. Either way, you'll need to get one that has PL-259 connectors on each end.

First and foremost, it's ALL about antenna. From the physical equipment (antenna itself) to the environment and conditions in which you operate it. From the sound of it, you're looking to build a small base set up. The antenna you linked, yes would work far better than the "rubber duck" antenna the 38 comes with, but is still a mobile, automotive type antenna. There are far better "base" antennas that are far more capable for not a whole lot more money. Here are some products you might want to consider if you're looking to optimize range and performance of your radio;

Adapter for handheld radio

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00006JPES/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_mH9NDbP5HSG4R

Base antenna

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0017J7NQ2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_7J9NDb5VJMYN6

100-ft Coax

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008APMTEW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_PK9NDbP52F6RG

Hope this information helps in some way. There is a ton of information on YouTube and here in this sub. Let me know if you have any questions.

A few hints for amplifiers, since they can be confusing for non-technical people:

• Some amplifiers have an input and an output, with a certain amount of gain (often 15db), and you provide your own splitter. These are great for custom situations, where you really need to adjust for specific problems or just know what you're doing and can match things properly.
  
  
• If that's not for you, look for an amplifier that has multiple outputs (usually 4 or 8) and 0db output gain, like this one. What this means is that it's matched perfectly, so the signal coming in from the antenna is the same strength as each output -- effectively zero loss due to splitting the signal.
  
  Also, regardless of which amplifier/splitter you use, you should terminate any unused output jacks with an F Terminator. Be sure you get actual 75 ohm terminators and not just a dust cap. It might seem unnecessary, but you want to get the best signal you can here, right?

The Uniden 520 is a great choice for a basic radio. I've been using one for years with excellent results. It's really hard to beat for the size/money.

Consider the K30 magnet mount antenna for an alternative in that size.
I've used both it and the Little Wil and found the K30 to perform noticeably better. It's also less expensive:

http://www.amazon.com/K40-K-30-Stainless-Magnet-Antenna/dp/B000H2W270/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1417900765&sr=8-2&keywords=K30

The other commenter that suggested getting an SWR meter is also correct. These antennas all require some degree of adjustment for optimal performance. Just a basic meter will work fine.

http://www.amazon.com/Astatic-PDC1-100-Watt-Meter/dp/B004ULN610/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1417900872&sr=8-1&keywords=SWR+meter

And the jumper:
http://www.amazon.com/Procomm-Coaxial-Cable-Jumper-Connectors/dp/B003DRJ738/ref=pd_bxgy_auto_text_y

The meter and jumper is something you'll very rarely need (just when moving the setup to a different vehicle, for the most part) so if you husband has a friend into CB or HAM operation, he may be able to borrow one for a few minutes rather than buying.

Finally, you'll need some way to power the radio. The easiest way is with a lighter plug:
http://www.amazon.com/Roadpro-Fused-Replacement-Cigarette-Lighter/dp/B0016LG0CY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1417901045&sr=8-1&keywords=lighter+plug

Just cut the connectors off the ends of the wires and splice it with the ones on the radio.

Alternatively, you can connect to the fuse box with an Add-A-Circuit. These come in different sizes depending on the fuses in your car. You can get one of these for less than $10 at any auto parts store.

Yep... at the frequencies your phone link most likely uses, you need to be real careful about working with the cable and connectors. Probably your best bet would be to open the connection between the coax cable (which looks like a male N-connector on the coax) and the adapter piece, then add in some more length here if you need it. You can buy a pre-made low-loss coax length like this fairly readily (that link is for a 50ft length. Other lengths are readily available too) and all you also need is an N-connector female-female adapter to join the existing coax to the extension. The adapter piece you have looks like an N female to TNC male....verify that it's indeed what you have before buying anything. :-)


EDIT: Oh...a silly after thought... If punching a hole in the wall is an issue, have you considered leaving the phone link where it is and just running phone cable to where you want the phone? Scratch that... I realise now that what you have is a cordless phone cradle.

Get at least a 25 ft. ethernet cable, you'll need to make sure you have the length in case your computer is on the opposite end of your dorm. Also, get a small, 19" or so, TV that'll be light enough to carry in between your home and dorm. If your university has cable, you'll want a coaxial cable to hook up your TV to it, and an HDMI cable (I recommend a flat cable) to hook your computer up to the TV to use it as a second monitor. You won't be able to game or anything, due to the refresh rate, but it will be perfectly fine for watching videos on Netflix/Hulu/Xfinity/Crunchyroll/Whichever video provider you use.

Would you like a falafel with that?

Wilson 301111 yagi antenna. Covers 700-960Mhz with 13dbi gain, perfect for many metro area public safety and commercial radio systems. Obviously, sub in whatever antenna works best for you here based on your needs and location and what bands you're looking to cover. I also have a stealthy ADS-B antenna on the roof and a discone in the attic to cover everything else I'm interested in and I'm currently looking to buy/build something to get me better VHF airband coverage.

My HOA probably wouldn't be crazy about me putting a yagi on the side of the house, so I've got it clamped to a photographic light stand and pointed out a window facing the antenna site. I'm also a serious photographer, so I've got bunches just sitting in a closet and it's just about the perfect way I've found to get a good antenna setup indoors.

For this particular antenna, you'll need an N to F adapter, to connect to the splitter...

...In this case, an Electroline EDA-UG2802 unity gain splitter. They also have a 4 port model, but the 8 port is only a few bucks more, so it was a no brainer to get this and just cap off the ports I'm not using and have the expansion room.

Various extras, like RG-6 patch cables, MCX to F pigtails, BNC to F adapters, and whatever else you may need to get it all hooked up.

The scanner is just some RS unit I had lying around that I use to listen to the analog transmissions on a mixed mode EDACS system that I monitor. In theory, Unitrunker should be able to do this with an additional voice receiver dedicated to analog, but in practice it works terribly so scanner it is.

edit: My monitoring station with the whole setup in action. I gave up on pretty cable management years ago.

When it comes to cable, quad shield is overkill. We use Tri shield for our cable to homes and inside.

I would suggest something like this: 1000ft BLACK MADE IN USA COMMSCOPE F677TSVV TRI-SHIELD RG6 COAXIAL 18AWG 75 OHM SOLID CENTER CONDUCTOR FLAME RETARDANT PVC UL ETL CM CATV RATED INDOOR AUDIO/VIDEO TELECOMMUNICATION BULK COAX CABLE https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07B9NBS14/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_hN3WAbMH77HR5

Also, quad shield is much harder to put fittings onto (normally you'd want to buy special quad shield fittings) while the standard rg6 fittings everyone uses works on tri shield.

Good luck!

Source: am cable technician for over 10 years.

Radio Coaxial Mount Antenna Spring
The mounting location is actually really nice, and it was very easy to set up. If you want a more detailed explanation, I'd be happy to give one.

I would try a better antenna. I have used this in my attic for over 5 years. Make sure to use a quality coax RG6 quad shielded cable (something like this). Use AntennaWeb to help you aim your antenna.

With this I've been able to pick up CBS in College Station from Katy

I bought some recently and have liked them.

Tool
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001UL1CU0/ref=oh_details_o01_s01_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Connectors
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004D9WXCM/ref=oh_details_o01_s01_i01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

and FWIW
Cable
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0069F4H3G/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


The cable fits very well in the ends, very tight and weatherproof. And the Tool is very comfortable, I used mine all day.

Yea it's a handheld. Midland 75. Opted for his one because I didn't have to run power. Also I can take the unit off the cable in the jeep and plop on a battery pack and stubby antenna (all included) and use it outside the jeep if needed. But the install was straight forward for me. Put mounting hardware together, place between spare carrier and gate, run coax through gate along the rollcage under the glove box. Hook up the radio and plug into cigarette lighter. Pretty simple. Just takes time. Fishing the wire through the gate took the longest, but wasn't difficult. Followed this guide, but using different radio, so no need for power splice.

https://youtu.be/c3CgK3uTWkI

Edit : Parts Purchased
Heavy Duty Spring - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00042LC9M/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Stud mount - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00T4RSQ92/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Antenna - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000X3EP7I/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (3 or 4 foot will work just fine.)

CB Radio - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00000K2YR/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Coax Cable - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001JT0CGI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s03?ie=UTF8&psc=1(18 feet is BARELY enough length to run from stud on mount to under the glovebox.)

Spare Tire Mount - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01D5TNMNE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s03?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Optional, but suggested to get a quick disconnect.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000UTQUAK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (still waiting on this to arrive, but antenna works without it.

Also be aware that you should get the antenna tuned. You can buy the meter and do yourself or find someone with it. Locally cost me $20 and about 10min of my day.

Hope this helps you with your install.

Thanks so much for your help. 1 final question: when I search for a coax coupler this is the result I'm getting

Is that right? How would the setup work? I was imagining that it would look like a splitter just in reverse.

Awesome, thanks so much.

• Here is the [amplifier] (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000WDR94U/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=242MTTOZCY9KC&coliid=IUQQXRAFKNF83&psc=1) I was looking at. (It says +4.5dB per port, I can't seem to find one that says 10dB)
  
  
• Here is the [cable] (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0069F4H3G/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=242MTTOZCY9KC&coliid=I1HOLBLATFE159).
  
  The cable would come in and split off directly to the modem and then to the splitter.

Intermittent connectivity isn't much of issue as I have had consistent up time.

> remember those signal levels are just at your modem

That's a good point. Definitely have to factor this in.

> Good connectors are good and few to choose from, bad connectors are everywhere and can cause huge problems.

Do you have recommendations on compression tools to use if I go ahead and take on this project?

These are the two things I was going to get to begin switching out the cables.

Compression tools

RG6 Spool

Yes you can. You just need flatwire It's $5, and you put it under your screen and window, close the window, and you now have a coax run. Yes, it's mostly appealing to renters, because no permanent modification to the structure is required. I use flatwire to run my aerials into my house, and it works excellent.

Glad I asked before even making the purchase then...

With a fiberglass antenna, can I easily remove the antenna and store it in the car without having to retune it every time I put it back into the mount?

Also..

what things will I need to buy to make it all work? There seems to be a lot of small things..

• Cobra CB Radio
  
  
• Firestik Antenna
  
• Coaxial cable
  
• Firestik stud
  
• Antenna Spring
  
  -Mount to car. Does the hole size matter? I keep finding hole sizes of 5/8", and the studs being 1/2"...
  
  Is that all I will need?
  

I paid a bit more for my setup, just because I really wanted it to have a certain look and feel. Here's what I'm running in my JK.
Cobra 75WXST - $85
Fire-Flex coax - $20
Spare Tire Mount - $20
Firestik Stud - $8
3ft Firestik - $20
Microphone Mount - $30


The setup is really unobtrusive and I think it looks nice, but everyone is going to have their own opinions on aesthetics. Seriously though, shop around for a bit before committing. There's a zillion combinations of radios, antenna lengths, antenna types, mounting locations, etc to think about. My mounting location (spare tire), for example, is not ideal when it comes to signal propagation. A hood mount would be much better.

I am on the second floor, but it's a shared balcony and I'm not too sure if I could pull that off with my management.

I could maybe see a pair of U bolts and put it along the south facing railing. Only problem is running it into my apartment.

Edit: Well this looks promising to get the cable run through a window.

I used this cable and bracket and they are awesome. My friend who actually has an XJ got the same bracket and we screwed it into the rear near the tail light I'll see if I can find a picture of his setup.

http://www.amazon.com/FireStik-K-8R18-Fire-Flex-cable-Fire-Ring/dp/B000X3C8L8

www.amazon.com/FireStik-SS-204A-Adjustable-stainless-vertical/dp/B000X3EQ3G/ref=pd_sim_e_25?ie=UTF8&refRID=0EZ302285D3NDQ0JH8G1

Funny you followed up when you did, I'm on Amazon right now getting all my stuff together. Here's the breakdown:

• Original antenna you suggested here
  
  
• with this coax for the main run.
  
  
• This ground
  
  
• and this grounding wire running to where I have the house ground.
  
  The only thing I'm debating is to pick up an amp, but I suppose that can wait until I have the bare bones setup on my roof. Any other suggestions?

The cable you selected won't work because it is RPSMA which is different from your dongle. You might be better off buying an adapter like this and just some coaxial cable which is going to be less expensive. It won't be the highest quality solution but it will work for your application.

Edit: This is wrong.

I mean it looks like this:http://www.amazon.com/Belkin-PureAV-AV20100-06-Digital-Coaxial/dp/B0001XGQV8/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1346690506&sr=8-10&keywords=coaxial+cable

not like this:http://www.amazon.com/Mediabridge-Shielded-Coaxial-Digital-Connector/dp/B003FVX8GE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1346690606&sr=8-1&keywords=coaxial+cable

Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Mediabridge-Coaxial-Cable-F-Male-Connectors/dp/B003FVX8GE

Wal-Mart should have them too. Unfortunately Radio Shack no longer exists. Best Buy will likely have them. Target might have them.

Well that’s a silly design, just get some couplers and attach a new cable before where your modem currently connects.

You absolutely can. http://www.amazon.com/Southwire-56918445-500-Feet-Shields-Coaxial/dp/B0069F4H3G

Who mounted your radio in the first place? I would take it back there and get an estimate, then present it to the mechanic for payment. Then have your installer put it in again.

Is this what you're looking for? Or this? Maybe it's this?

A coax cable? You can get a flat coupler.

https://www.amazon.com/Parts-Express-Window-Coaxial-Coupler/dp/B0002KR74A

You should still be able to use existing wiring. That is what I do.

• Cable (internet only) comes into the house to a splitter -- I removed that line from the splitter.
  
• I put an f-connector coupler (example from Amazon) on the cable coming from the street directly to my room with my cable modem. (You don't want your internet to go through an amp)
  
• I then put the input from the antenna into the cable splitter to feed to rest of the rooms.
  
  I did something similar for my grandmother although her splitter was outside in a box and not in the house. Same concept -- routed the internet line directly to the room with her cable modem with an f-connector coupler and used the splitter for the other rooms to pass the antenna feed.

The connector and antenna look correct. Cable is wrong. You need PL259 coax like http://www.amazon.com/RG-58A-Coaxial-Cable-Pl-259-Connectors/dp/B001JT0CGI