Reddit mentions: The best fiber optic products

Thanks! So could I buy something like this to join the wires on the motor? Does the wire gauge matter?

Also, are these what you are referring to when you mention in-line crimps?

Again thanks, I really appreciate the help!

Dupont connectors, fittings, crimper:

http://www.amazon.com/Sunkee-Dupont-Jumper-Female-Connector/dp/B00CGWVFWW/

http://www.amazon.com/Sunkee-100PCS-Dupont-Jumper-Connector/dp/B00CGWUV6S/

http://www.amazon.com/SainSmart-Professional-Compression-Ratcheting-Insulated/dp/B00DHCRVSC/

http://www.amazon.com/Happy-Store-2-54mm-Connector-Housing/dp/B00CO86Z6Y/

http://www.amazon.com/Sunkee-100pcs-Dupont-Connector-Housing/dp/B00CGXOVM2/

Wire:

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003HGHQ24/ref=biss_dp_t_asn

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003HGHQ2O/ref=biss_dp_t_asn

Exact products i bought. Didn't need the crimper exactly (could just use needle nose pliers), and the insulation on this wire is a little thick for the connectors (doesnt' quite fit into the black connectors when crimped around the insulation, but i wanted the heaviest gauge i could fit, 24 would probably fit better)

Some of the items shipped prime, some shipped from china, so 2 day shipping on the male connectors, and a month on the female. :-p

When looking to attach to a board make sure to measure the pitch, 2.54 is fairly standard, but there's always someone who uses 2mm or something else.

Depending on your case, getting the Teensy lined up just right to enable you to plug directly into it can be either impossible or merely difficult. So a good option is to buy a breakout board like this one for a Mini USB jack and then wire it up to something like one of these Mini USB male connectors. You then plug your male connector into the Teensy 2 and then you can place the female jack wherever you want on your board - using super glue or epoxy or whatever else you can find that makes it stick in place.

The connector I used on this board is this one right here because the case has a cutout that is only large enough for a Micro jack, not a Mini.

But yeah, I highly recommend getting some of these. They give you a lot more options on placing your controller.

1. I used 22 AWG solid core wire. Which should be plenty. Check that the wire you're using isn't thinner than the wire that's already there and you should be fine.
   
2. Just one wire to each contact. The purpose is to just make the switch short the two wires together, so orientation does not matter.
   
3. For mine there are two positive and negative labelled POW+ and POW-. Again orientation doesn't matter. These are the type of pins I'd use, they should simply snap off to however many you need, just solder the wire to the metal pin and plug them onto the motherboard.
   
4. The way I've done mine the power button on my case does not work anymore. However if I used new header pins I would solder the original switch wires to the header pins as well. Theoretically this should allow either switch to operate as normal.
   
5. ...
   
6. Profit! ^No ^house ^fires!
   

https://www.amazon.com/Commscope-CSMAPDU9VPI-HomeConnect-Amplifier-Connectivity/dp/B0779YQD38/ref=sr_1_12?keywords=comcast+splitter&qid=1550254951&s=gateway&sr=8-12

​

? does comcast give you it for free? And what about this link?

This is my new ethernet networking hub in the new house. I had two Cat6 and one RG-6 pulled to every drop and have 14 drops throughout the house. All of the ethernet drops (red and yellow in the top right of the picture) run to this cabinet and the RG-6 go to a panel to the lower right of this with the cable modem and firewall (pfSense). The house is a two story with a walk out basement and this cabinet is in a storage room next the to the stairs in the finished basement.

Equipment:

• Tripp Lite 9U Wall Mount Rack Enclosure, 16.5" Deep, SRW9U
  
• TRENDnet 48-Port Cat6 Unshielded Patch Panel, TC-P48C6
  
• Cisco SG300-52 Managed Switch
  
• D-Link 10-Port Gigabit PoE Switch DGS-1210-10P
  
• Apple Time Capsule (re-capped power supply, reversed and vented fan, WD Red drive)
  
• Sangoma PBX running FreePBX
  
• CyberPower PR1500LCDRT2U Sinewave UPS 1500VA 1350W
  
  Accessories:
  
  
• CyberPower RMCARD205 Remote Management Card
  
• CyberPower ENVIROSENSOR Enviromental Sensor
  
• Monoprice 1000-Feet 23 AWG Cat6 500Mhz UTP CMR Solid Bulk Bare Copper Ethernet Cable - Yellow (108109)
  
• Monoprice 1000-Feet 23 AWG Cat6 500Mhz UTP CMR Solid Bulk Bare Copper Ethernet Cable - Red (108107)
  
• 50M Multimode Duplex 10Gb Fiber Optic Cable (50/125) - LC to LC
  
• LC-LC 10Gb Multimode Duplex 50/125 Fiber Patch Cable, 1FT
  
• TRENDnet Gigabit SFP module, Multi-Mode, Mini-GBIC, Up to 550 m, TEG-MGBSX
  
• Tripp Lite SRCAGENUTS Rack Square Hole Hardware Kit Screws, Washers
  
• Cable Matters Cat6 Ethernet Patch Cable in Black 1 Foot
  
• GearIT Cat6 Ethernet Patch Cable 1.5 Feet - Red
  
• GearIT Cat6 Ethernet Patch Cable 3 Feet - Yellow
  
• NavePoint Cantilever Vented Shelf 1U Black 14" (350mm) deep
  
  Equipment not shown:
  
  
• Leviton 61110-BW6 Extreme Quick Port Connector, White
  
• Leviton 61110-BL6 Extreme Quick Port Connector, Blue
  
• Leviton 41085-MLR Quickport Duplex LC MM Fiber Optic Adapter
  
• Leviton 41091-3WN QuickPort Midsize Wallplate, Single Gang, 3-Port, White
  
• Leviton 41080-4WP QuickPort Wallplate, Single Gang, 4-Port, White
  
• Arlington LV1-10 Low Voltage Mounting Bracket, 1-Gang, Black
  
• Brady PWM-PK-8 B-500 Matte Repositionable Vinyl Cloth Wire Markers
  
  The D-Link is currently for the PoE VoIP phones and PBX. The Cisco switch is for everything else in the house for now. There is a Drobo camping on the top of the cabinet which will be decommissioned eventually and content moved to a FreeNAS server. Current power draw from everything here including Drobo is 85W.
  
  Cross-posted in /r/HomeNetworking
  
  edit: forgot to mention that the fiber line runs to the den where the lab will be setup. Currently the other end is another Cisco SG500-28 (the model without the fans, so quiet). Future upgrade is a 10G connection.

​

Powered cable amp and splitter. will edit with a link in a minute or two.
https://www.amazon.com/Commscope-CSMAPDU9VPI-HomeConnect-Amplifier-Connectivity-x/dp/B0779YQD38 MoCa is a hardware setup that lets you go from Cat5/6 to Coax and then back. Allows you to do longer runs with less loss. In theory, it works great. In practice, it can be lacking at times or can work well.

And now you can get punchdown jacks that do not require a punchdown tool. Super simple. I'm sure there are cheaper, but these are what we use and you just put the 8 wires in and mash down the thingy! Then just snap them in a wall plate.

You need a kit like this and a crimping tool.

You could go with something like THESE and cut them to the length you need, but they require soldering and heat shrink tubing to be applied...

8 way is more expensive. You can check this one.
https://www.amazon.com/Commscope-CSMAPDU9VPI-HomeConnect-Amplifier-Connectivity/dp/B0779YQD38/ref=sr_1_7?crid=19VGODR5RWVA7&keywords=moca+splitter&qid=1568697085&s=gateway&sprefix=moca+sp%2Caps%2C310&sr=8-7

6-way is much cheaper.
https://www.amazon.com/BAMF-6-Way-Splitter-Bi-Directional-5-2300MHz/dp/B01KCY5MBU/ref=sr_1_3?crid=19VGODR5RWVA7&keywords=moca+splitter&qid=1568697085&s=gateway&sprefix=moca+sp%2Caps%2C310&sr=8-3

Run fiber. Buy this fiber cable (link) and convert it to ethernet on each end with one of these (link). Install conduit for the fiber using a vibratory plow (link). You don't have to use conduit, but if you don't, then you'll need to use fiber cable that is rated for direct burial.

Buy a light meter. Helps loads in narrowing down the problem.

This is an affordable model:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DFTZAQ2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

There will be an impedance mismatch between 75 and 50 ohm but those losses are low. The issue I see is you are using bnc t connectors. You need to isolate the rf links. Since you are using 75 ohm you can use cable tv equipment to split and amplify the signal. I would choose and amplifier that does not impart additional signal above the input power after splitting. Something like this.... Commscope CSMAPDU9VPI 9-port MoCA... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0779YQD38?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

You will need 2 of them to maintain diversity of the rf.