Reddit mentions: The best hardware washers

For some reason this didn't show up the first time I posted, so sorry if it shows up twice :-)

1

2 (Snow is kind of reminiscent of rain)

3 (food related because I would serve hot meals on it; unusual because it is multifunctional)

4 is for my two year old daughter because she has the normal version, but loves it so much (probably her favorite thing) that it is now in three pieces with the cover off and losing pages every day, but this one has a carry handle and is smaller for toddlers and easier to carry around.

5 You need to read it because I've been told I need to read it.

6

7 because Catwoman

8 The picture of beauty! :-)

9 Because it's a classic. . . it's sweet, has adventure, and teamwork. . . dinosaurs.

10 because it's a sword that I will always have with me because it's a keychain

11 I'm on my 4th week of P90x, and I hate yoga day because I can't do all the moves, so I don't have the desire to do it, but this would help on moves where I am not as flexible.

12 I want these so I can make necklaces with them.

13 Because it has a swingset and a playhouse and my daughter (and when he's older, my son too) would love this, and I love them very much. So seeing them happy makes me happy :-).

14

15 seeds are much smaller than golfballs

16 Nothing smells as good as a freshly bathed baby :-)

17

18 I could practice my letters and spelling (as long as each letter was only used once) :-)

19 My current obsession is being a mom! All of my other obsessions are geeky stuff, so this is perfect!

20 I know this really needs no explanation as to why it is so grand and awe-inspiring, but here are 10 good reasons. . . First of all, it's huge because it's a rug. Second of all, it is from one of the greatest movies of all time, Star Wars Episode V. Third, it looks sooooo soft (it's so fluffy, I'm going to die). Fourth, how many people do you know who have this in their home? Fifth, it has claws. Sixth, it's smiling. Seventh, you could hide under it during a home invasion. Eighth, you could cover up with it if your power went out in a snowstorm. Ninth, (since you love cats) I bet cats love laying on a wampa rug. Finally tenth, it would be the perfect addition to this boy's nursery (I've shown this picture a lot on RAoA, but I can't help it. He's too cute!)

Bonus Item 1 will be PMd to you when I found out your real name, not if but when :-)

Bonus Item 2 Looks yummy!

fear cuts deeper than swords

This was super fun by the way! Thanks!

So I have a weird little idea for a craft project. I play Dungeons and Dragons but I'm too cheap for miniatures, so I've been looking into replacements.

My idea is basically to make discs/tokens out of neoprene and small magnets, with one side having something that could be drawn on and is either easily erasable or replaceable. The neoprene and magnets are specifically to give each token some weight and friction, so they can't be knocked around too much accidentally.

I've done a little research and I've found some of the materials I'd need:

These magnets are pretty much exactly what I'm looking for, though I'm not exactly sure how strong they are. I'd like for them to be strong enough to, say, stick to a fridge with about a 1/16th of an inch of neoprene between the two.

Then, I can use a pair of these neoprene washers to cover the outside of the magnet. The size isn't a perfect match to the magnet, but I've looked and this is about as close as I can get without having to buy entire sheets of neoprene and cut out the discs/rings I need myself. The magnets have a 10mm diameter, which leaves ~1.35mm around the outside of the magnet, which I suppose I could fill with...tape? There'd also be space above and below the magnet, but I'm not worried about 7/40ths of a millimeter.

I'll get another set of washers with a smaller inner diameter (but the same 1 inch outer diameter) to use as the bottoms of the tokens, just so the magnet isn't visible.

As far as the drawing surface, I'm not sure. I want it to be pretty solid, so I'm thinking I could use this stuff with these applied over top so I can get the 'easily reusable' part down. Still not entirely sure, but that seems like a reasonable solution.

I have no idea what sort of adhesive to use. Pretty big part of it, but I've never done anything like this before.

In the end, it'd look something like this. Clocks in at about $85 (most of it being the washers), but that'd get me about 100 tokens. I don't think I could use 100 tokens, but I think I could find people interested in them.

Now that I️ am at a device with a keyboard.

I️ highly recommend the Highboy YouTube videos, I️ learned a lot from watching them and refer to them if I️ have issues. If you can learn to sent your index pawls correctly, then you’ll have 0 issues.

My one 0.02$ upgrade is to use a lock washer on top of the shell plate washer and tighten the bolt down. Get a 100 pack from amazon if you switch caliber a lot like I️ do.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CAO5BQW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I️ have bought the following tweeks/upgrades.

http://black-cat-works4.mybigcommerce.com

From the website above I️ purchased the following. Everything is really cheap the owner 3D prints these parts. I want to say that in total I spent like 40 bucks for all of this. I think they're worth every penny.

• Upgraded Primer Arm - Broke 2 when I️ was first learning, and honestly probably would’ve broken more. The Hornady part is CHEAP plastic and this worth more than 4$ I️ paid for I️t. This one is much thicker plastic and of better design.
  
  
• Case Feed Caliber Adapter - I️ found that with the LNL Case feeder that the supplied Hornady Caliber Collets caused jams, double feeds, and issues in general. These are 3D printed to much tighter tolerances and have made my case feed MUCH more consist and am again very happy with my purchase. He had one for every caliber I reload.
  
  
• Case Feed Cam Wire Holder - Again another part like the priming arm, just made better.
  
  https://inlinefabrication.com - Little more pricey but everything is of a very high quality.
  
  
• Ultra Mount - I️ like I️t for my setup, however I️t makes the whole setup very tall with the case feeder attachment.
  
  
• Ergo Roller Handle - I️ find that I️t makes for a much more consistent stroke.
  
  
• LED light kit - Nice LED lights that are pre cut for the inside walls of the press, after loading without and now having I️t. I️ highly recommend that you purchase some sort of light. If I️ were to do I️t again I️ would’ve gotten the inline SKYLIGHT
  
  
• Double Bin Swing Arm - Attaches to the back of the case feeder and press. As I️ don’t have a bullet feeder, nor feel the need to. This allows me to do the only manual process of seating the bullet very easily without having to move my arm to far.
  
  
• Ultramount Piggyback Mount 4 LNL Bushing Set - Nice for when you need to take the bushings out to clean out any spilled powder, mess the primer tube, load the case feeder.

I really do hope someone makes new/updated sliders and housings - it would be a game changer!

No problem at all - we are all here to help out and tweak the shit out of our boards :-) These are also available on Amazon.com but I bought one of these and two of these. I actually like the thicker one better and its more useful considering the size and length. If you do end up getting them, feel free to make a post or send me an update as I'd like someone else's take on Sorbothane!

Grab a pack of nylon washers. Try adding a second one on either side of the bearing carrier. If you add a second washer and it spins freely and cleans up the slop you're good. If adding a second washer makes it too tight you can try sanding down the nylon washer. Make sure to check it's not too tight by spinning the wheel with your hand. Sounds like you have enough slop a second washer should be fine.

Also I think you're the same person that had asked before but when checking for slop in the wheels make sure you're holding the a-arm, drive shaft, and toe/camber links in your hand. You only want to see the slop in the wheel and not holding those bits will make it seem like there is a lot of play.

[RESPONSE TO STRUCTURE CRITICS]:

• This was built in the basement of a 60-year old house.
  
• I considered a simple support beam, pole, or board, but since I'm really only doing this for arm work, which tops out at 110-lbs (but more often 50-80 lbs.), that small amount of weight won't take down a 12-inch joist.
  
• The weight-bearing 5/16ths hex bolts are 2.5" from the bottom of the joist and 3.5" from the top; the rest you see is for appearance sake.
  
• The plates do not sway during use; in fact, they're surprisingly stable. I may find a better solution in the future, but for now, using a plumber's wrench handle was a budget-minded choice.
  
  [ITEMS USED IN THIS ASSEMBLY]:
  
  
• The items used were common items found in any Home Depot/Lowes/Menards store -- hex bolts, lock nuts, 1-inch perforated square tubing (w/ 5/16th holes), which tested very strong.
  
• I drilled the pulley holes out to 3/8" using a "Unibit" on my drill to fit the pulley holes.
  
• The bottom rail between the pulleys is a simple edge guard attached with short lag screws.
  
• Nylon washers: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00L1IZ3JS/
  
• Simple pulleys: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0157BBA1Y/
  
• Plumber's wrench for a plate holder (found at Walmart).
  
• Total cost was $125, which included some parts I didn't use.

My suggestion:

This + rubber cement + your tokens

They turn out great. I have a whole box of these things. Your local hardware store carries the washers too. Also, 2" washers work just as well for large tokens. I love making these, and my players love playing with them.

Basic components of a pressurized CO2 system:

• Regulator -controls flow of CO2 gas into your aquarium
  
  
• CO2 tank - consistent, pressurized source of CO2
  
  
• Diffuser - breaks down CO2 gas into teeny tiny bubbles for plants to use
  
  Regulators: there are many brands and components to a regulator. I recommend a regulator with a solenoid, and a bubble counter. The solenoid allows you easily control your CO2 using an inexpensive timer, or an expensive pH controller. A bubble counter is a simple way to guess how much CO2 gas is in your aquarium. You may want to shoot for 3-4 bubbles per second depending on lighting and plants. I personally recommend the Milwaukee regulator and have used one reliably for years.
  
  CO2 tank: A 10 lb tank might last you 3-4 months before needing refilled. You can get a 20lb but they are huge and ridiculously heavy. On my 29gal, a 10lb tank lasts 6 months. Tanks ship empty and you have to find a local source to fill it with CO2. Try welding supply or home brew beer supply. You will need disposable seals too.
  
  Diffuser: This is where you have a lot of options. Ceramic diffusers are effective on small-medium tanks. CO2 reactors and DYI options using your filtration system are effective on a large size tank. I can't give any recommendations on these 2 options, sorry, hopefully someone will chime in.
  
  Other important equipment includes CO2-safe tubing, a drop checker, maybe a brass check valve if needed, and the aforementioned timer. Hit me up if you would like recommendations for these items.
  

I guess if you want to reduce travel distance without any rubbery mushiness you could maybe track down some kind of washer to fit on the stems

edit: maybe something like this ?

disclaimer: haven't tried it. no guarantee it'll fit or do anything useful

Questions about liner material and lube...

For liner material, what acoustic differences am I going to find between: neoprene, sorborthane, and rather generic looking "foam" rolls? They're all pretty much the same thickness, about 2-3 mm.

For lube, I'm looking at: Permatex dielectric grease, krytox 205 grade 2, trybosis 3204 and trybosis 3203. What would be good for stabs, what would be good for linears, and what would be good for tactiles? And if possible, is there anything that's a good "all-arounder"? Aka, something that could easily work for both stabs and switches.

Sorbothane does a great job dampening. I used something like this in my Pok3r and it really isolates the sound to just the keys. It also made my board feel much more solid which I love. Adding a neoprene mat underneath does even a bit more. A word of caution, dampening can make other sounds shine, like the ping on that pesky Enter key.

Sound comparison clips:
Soundcloud. Dampened is with a layer of sorbothane inside the case.

Yeah you shouldn't have to tap anything. You might want to check out if corsair can hook you up with a few extra rubber fan mount bushings/washers. those would be ideal. Here's the aftermarket

Cheers!

That's why I love 5/3/1! My OHP progress definitely isn't linear and I get stuck at/go up and down around the same 1+ for forever, but it's so satisfying to finally break through.

Have you considered bringing your own fractional weights or some washers and making your OHP programming calculations round to the nearest lb/half lb/whatever? I have washers because they used to be wayyyy cheaper than the fractional weights. TBH I'm too lazy to carry them to the gym, but when I was using them they were pretty helpful in working up my OHP in smaller increments.

lol. I agree with the urgency. it's imo an unbearable issue for edc!
the feedback I've gotten has been positive from folks who have bought it: link

if you want a slightly cheaper alternative others have just glued some washers onto the tail

I've had issues like that in the past. I used rubber washers like these. Worked great for me.

Can't speak for the Heavy-6 but I used a single layer , 0.125" thick, 4.5" x 12" sheet on my norbaforce.

I would recommend starting with a fairly thin sheet like this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B019GBG97Q

And trimming to the correct size. You can always add another layer on top if needed.

Any kind of foam cut cut around the mounts/usb in the bottom of the case would help with that. I've heard sorbothane is really good but it's a bit pricey. Another popular solution that isn't foam is the shelf liner stuff usually used for kitchens.

Thanks for the detailed response. My style is a blend of modern/contemporary. I'm going through a divorce and just got my own place again. What you're looking at is the living room with a blow up bed in it because the living room furniture won't be delivered until the 16th, and who wouldn't want to camp out in that spot.

I mean I guess I could go with an interior designer, but I think I'm set now on testing out my tie-down idea. Not even going to go fancy, just to see how it looks. I can cover the hardware with cloth or even 3D print a cover. I'm going to try it out with some dummy weights first. If it physically works, I'll think about how to make it look a bit better.

What do you think about using the Motion SLM for rear surrounds instead of the EM-XF2? The SLM are smaller/lighter and more stylish. I've gone with dealing with the terrible speakers in my old Sharp LCD for the past 5 years, so anything is really an improvement.

http://www.amazon.com/Contained-White-Ratchet-Double-D-Rings/dp/B00LGYRQAQ/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1457516862&sr=8-3&keywords=white+ratchet+strap
http://www.amazon.com/Hillman-Group-42264-Fender-15-Pack/dp/B00PHHOGBK/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1457516904&sr=8-2&keywords=2+inch+washers

Thinking about getting some of these Sorbothane washers for my board. I used some for baffling in my computer keyboard (keyboard nerd) and they're amazing for vibration isolation and sound dampening. Recently discovered that the same company makes washers. Anyone have any input on this? I can get them in different duros, those ones I linked seem like the closest available fit for a size 10 bolt.

I recommend Sorbothane (amazon link). It does a really good job at absorbing sound, and will make a world of difference in a aluminum tada case.

I use the washers from the link below. If you want to pay 3 or 4 bucks more and get prime shipping click the other listings and select the one with prime. Not sure if they are the best buy they seemed to work fine for me.


https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01ARADX88/

You're welcome! If brick and mortar stores don't have any, I have used these uxcell Nylon Flat Washers for M5 Screw Bolt 10mm OD 1mm Thick Clear 100PCS https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07NS83JCR/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_jNw3DbP2D39ZA

Did you know Amazon will donate a portion of every purchase if you shop by going to smile.amazon.com instead? Over $50,000,000 has been raised for charity - all you need to do is change the URL!

Here are your smile-ified links:

Milwaukee regulator

disposable seals

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^^i'm ^^a ^^friendly bot

You could also try these guys they very well may resolve that shorting issue.

I used this one https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0084EXBFA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I pasted all of it to the case, then used an exacto knife to make it fit well.

Shelf liner gets recommended a lot

Sorbothane is the good stuff though: https://www.amazon.com/Isolate-Sorbothane-Acoustic-Vibration-Damping/dp/B0084EXBFA/ref=sr_1_12?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1481766863&sr=1-12&keywords=sorbothane+sheet

One inch washers + sticker paper + printer = good looking, cheap, solid, & reusable tokens.

I've looked into the same thing about a year ago and came to the conclusion that sorbethane was really good for this. Something like https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019GBG97Q/ref=asc_df_B019GBG97Q5260449/?tag=hyprod-20&creative=395033&creativeASIN=B019GBG97Q&linkCode=df0&hvadid=198070661729&hvpos=1o2&hvnetw=g&hvrand=13695881069556684324&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9028725&hvtargid=pla-320231501911

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01ARADX88/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_1kZOzbQM0QCEJ

I used these and they're the perfect size for the screws in the screw in stabilizers. They're for motherboards so this is their intended purpose.

you can find these amazon or ebay.

https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-2mmx4mmx0-5mm-Motherboard-Insulating-Washers/dp/B01ARADX88/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1486171775&sr=1-1&keywords=insulation+washer+0.5mm

It goes inside/in the bottom of the case. It's sandwiched in between the case and pcb. Link here- https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0084EXBFA/

I've been meaning to shoot a typing video so people can hear the difference. I have it installed in the exact same case you used for your build and it sounds 100X better.

I would suggest if you use screw in stabs to use a set of paper washers. I used the following with my build. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01ARADX88/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This stop's them from shorting out the board. Its not always a issue but having to desolder ever switch makes 7 bucks worth the piece of mind.

oops they're not plastic

https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-2mmx4mmx0-5mm-Motherboard-Insulating-Washers/dp/B01ARADX88/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1486171775&sr=1-1&keywords=insulation+washer+0.5mm

If they sell out before you order them, I could send you some of mine.

Here is the mobile version of your link

Huey from Top Clack has used this and did a typing video. It cut down the sound quite dramatically.