I started typing and this ended up being really long, hopefully it helps. I might have gone overboard, so if you need / want a TL;DR or more info on anything just say the word and I'll do what I can :)

My personal preference is to add details and touch-ups to my figures. I've done a few full repaints, and I'm working on my first airbrushed figure, but I really like adding in details where the factory didn't :)

---

Paints:

I've had good results using alcohol based acrylics like Tamiya, Model Master, or Testors Acrylics (I think Enamels are Testors' main line, so make sure to check what type it is). Alcohol-based acrylics thin and clean up nicely with 91% isopropyl alcohol, I usually pick it up from whatever pharmacy is nearby (don't get the 70%, it doesn't work at all).

Citadel and Vallejo make nice water-based acrylic paints in additional colors, you'll definitely need a primer if you're working with Vallejo (I've only used a couple of Citadel paints, so I can't really speak to them).

You'll want to stay far away from acrylic craft paint, I've tried it in the past and it doesn't come out well at all (I just use some empty glass or plastic jars from stuff like sour cream or salsa since they're not too big).

Some folks like enamel paints, and there might be another kind of model paint, but the chemicals in those paints and their thinner tends to be quite strong so I avoid them. I used un-thinned enamels when I first started painting, and when I tried to use the thinner it ended up melting my paint tray and making a mess, so I'm not too keen to give them another try.

---

Tools are going to differ a bit depending on how you want to paint (hand painting vs airbrushing or spray painting).

---

Hand Painting:

You'll need paints, some soft bristle brushes (I have a set like these), something to stir your paint (I use a Badger Paint Mixer and love it to bits), thinner (depending on your type of paint), a mixing tray, some pipettes for measuring paint and thinner, something to hold your parts while painting (I like these Aligator Clips), something to stick the clips into (I use a styrofoam block wrapped in plastic from a craft store, but I've seen folks use taped together cardboard like from Amazon boxes or the cheap foam coolers), some fine grit sand paper or nail buffing blocks to help rough up the surface slightly to help the paint stick, and something for topcoat (I absolutely love Pledge Multisurface Floor Care, aka Future Floor Wax, it's a clear acrylic wax that dries to a semi-gloss to gloss shine, it brushes on nice and self-levels for a smooth finish, and one bottle will last a REALLY long time; I got a bottle a few years ago and I've used it on a LOT of gundams and TFs and the bottle is still half full). You may also want some smaller containers or jars to hold your thinner, brush cleaner (alcohol or water), and topcoat if you're using Pledge just so you don't need to keep the big bottle out on your workspace.

---

Airbrushing:

You'll need an airbrush and compressor, and then a lot of the same supplies as above. You'll also want some small-ish jars to store your thinned paint so you can re-use your leftover paint instead of having to toss it, and some painter's tape to mask off parts you don't want to paint and to keep your paint lines clean.

You can airbrush inside the house, but you'll want to do it in a well ventilated area if you don't have a spray booth (box with a fan and air filter to help move the fumes out the window and help keep the paint from spraying everywhere). I'm still learning to paint with my airbrush, so I don't have too many tips here.

---

Spray painting:

You'll need your choice of spray paints, alligator clips, fine sand paper, and some painter's tape to mask off areas so it doesn't get everywhere. I definitely wouldn't advise using spray paints indoors, the fumes tend to be really strong. I haven't really used spray paints in a long time, so I'm not a lot of help here either.

---

Markers:

Some folks might recommend sharpies or paint pens / markers, but I've never had good luck with them.

I do highly recommend using a Micron, Graphix, or Prismacolor marker / pen for highlighting panel lines in .005 thickness for most figures. The .01 and even .05 markers can work well too, but they might be too thick for some figures, so a couple different thicknesses can't hurt (I've got a pencil case full of lining markers from those brands). Don't use sharpies for panel lines, unless things have changed, even the thinnest ones tend to dry a purpley-blue instead of black, and the lines are still really thick compared to the Micron.

---

Painting Tips:

• Always wash your figures in some warm soapy water, rinse them off, and let them dry fully before painting. This gets rid of any leftover mould release from the factory, it helps keep the parts from sticking in the moulds during assembly, but it will repel paint, pledge, primer, and panel lines like mad. I've skipped this step in the past, but things never turned out as well; so now I wash all my figures shortly after I open them up and make sure they're keepers.
  
• Always thin your paints! You might need 2-3 coats to get things just right, but the end finish will look really nice. I've found a 2:1 ratio of paint:thinner seems to work pretty well for most paints, but ymmv (the temperature and humidity can have a huge impact on how the paint comes out, and fans can speed the drying process, which can be a blessing or a curse, heh).
  
• If you're painting parts that will rub against others, lightly sand the surfaces first. This will help the paint stick to the plastic better.
  
• You might need / want to prime a piece before painting it. You can prime by hand with a primer like Vallejo Surface Primer, or with a spray primer. I find spray primer tends to come out smoother, but depending on what you're doing, either can work (priming by hand tends to come out a bit thicker, so ymmv again). When I paint by hand I'll usually only prime if I'm painting a dark piece a lighter color, but when I airbrush everything that's getting painted gets primed first.
  
• After you paint something, let it sit for about an hour before doing another coat, and let things fully dry and cure before moving on to topcoating and panel lining (usually 24 hours between a final coat of paint and topcoat, and another few hours between topcoat and panel lines).

Welcome to the hobby, friend! Here's a few useful tidbits of info for you.

None of the Gundam kits from the last 20 or so years need glue. That's a standard feature across pretty much every Gundam model kit. So in that regard, feel free to pick any design you like. Not all kits are created equally, but a quick search across this subreddit will help you figure out if the kit you're looking at happens to be hot garbage (and there are a few that are).

To more directly answer your question, the starter set uses an older model of the classic RX-78-02 Gundam. The Revive version is a much, much better model. You can find it here on Amazon.

A panel lining pen (or pens) are not required, but certainly make for a better final product. They're pretty cheap on their own, and generally you'll want at least grey and black, and possibly also brown. Alternatively, you can get a pack of all 3. You'll also want so basic q-tips/cotton swabs to clean up your panel looking.

You're also going to need some nippers. Nippers come in a range of types, qualities, and styles. The best nippers are single sided (that is, one side is a blade and the other is flat). These, the infamous Godhands are hands down the best nippers on the market. They're expensive as shit, but worth every penny. If you're on a medium budget, Tamiya's nippers are the next best option. There are cheaper nippers out there, but they're gonna come with significantly inferior results. That said, a lot of that can be addressed with...

A good hobby knife. You'll be just fine with a simple, cheap X-Acto knife, but there is (in my opinion) a better option. My personal favorite, the Tamiya Design Knife. It's got a slightly smaller blade, which will let you get into tighter spaces with it. It also comes with a metric crapton of replacement blades. You'll want to replace the blade every couple kits, but there's a bunch of them in there. There same container that holds the replacement blades even has a second chamber to dispose of your old blades into.

Finally, you may want some fine pointed (possibly angled) tweezers for decal application. Finger oils can screw up the adhesive on the stickers. You can pass on this starting off most likely, but you'll want to get some eventually.

TL;DR, the starter pack isn't the best option. If you're after the granddaddy Gundam, get the Revive. Otherwise, pick your favorite design. The newer the kit, the better, generally speaking. Look at the copyright date on the box cover to see. Bottom left corner.

You're going to need nippers, which can get pricey, but the cost is worth it. Start with a mediocre pair, and upgrade to the Godhands once you're committed to the hobby. You'll need a knife, too. You can cheap out on this one, but there are better options IMO.

Optionally, get tweezers, panel lining pens, and cotton swabs.

Edit: other good starter kits

HG Barbatos is a great kit. The build process for IBO models is a bit different than other gunpla, though, as they have a quasi-inner frame.

HG 00 Gundam is another great starter. It's also the first kit I ever panel lined, and it was a great starter for that.

If you're wanting a Zaku, the HG The Origin Zaku II Type C is probably the best Zaku kit released to date in 1/144 scale.

Finally, I'd feel bad for not suggesting my all time favorite HG build. It was just a fun, fun kit to make and to pose. The HG 1.5 Gundam. It's got some really cool gimmicks and, unique colors, and an awesome design.

First comment:

Please upvote this by default so it stays towards the top. I'm still learning how2reddit

So I am NOT an artistic person so this is especially anxious for me. But, I needed something to keep my hands busy that wasn't masturbating, so here we are.

I have probably over studied techniques and materials, and I want this post to be a "documentary" if you will. Where someone who has no business painting is going to be doing just that.

So, I'll be documenting my pitfalls and approaches to everything here. With all of you lovely people, it'll also hopefully be a central location for someone like me or just wants to get into 40k can refer to.

Disclaimer: I'll be at work until 5pm EST. But my job is pretty cushy so I'll be adding planning details throughout the day

Tools and Such

Well, I probably overspent here. Only because I'm lazy and didn't want to make the drive to harbor freights. But then again, paying the premium to help support my local game shop is going to give me some karma in the long run. Here's the list of things that I ended up picking up:

• Wire Cutters
  
  • The game shop charged me $16 for them lmao. I hate myself. But they're used to cut the pieces out of the sprues. I was using a box cutter at first, and in no time I nicked myself pretty badly. Just buy them. Again, Harbor Freights.
    
• Box Cutter / Exacto Knife
  
  • I used it to trim off the excess from the sprues. The box cutter worked, but the exacto knife was a bit better because of the handle and the gradual width in the blade helps with control when you need it, or the finer point when you need to get into smaller areas.
    
• Paint Brushes
  
  • So, I spent a lot on one pair and then minimal on another. The A Lot pair was from the game stop ($16 for three types), I figured these would be much higher quality when dealing with the tiny pieces. I went to walmart and bought a set of 8 as well for $5. I'm intending to use these on things like terrain because they're larger in size and hiding issues from crappy brushes is going to be easier on terrain than it will be on a mini the size of 6 quarters.
    
• Filing tools
  
  • Honestly I'm not sure why these are needed. I thought it'd help get rid of the excess sprue on the models but it leaves a scratchy texture. I'm pissed about that. Unless someone here will tell me otherwise, just use your exacto knife
    
• PAAAINNTT
  
  • THIS IS THE BIGGEST THING I'LL FIRMLY PUT MY FOOT DOWN ON
    
  • If you're just starting out, DO NOT GO BUY THEM INDIVIDUALLY. Its too expensive. My local shop sells them for nearly $5-$8 a bottle. Buy THIS. Its a ton of typical colors and drops the individual price down to $2.80.
    
  • Paint sets are always going to be your best friend, from what I've found. Citadel paints for example are really expensive at my local shop (like $5-$7 each expensive) But something like this is a huge savor., bringing the unit price down to $3,63.
    
  • Shading seems to overhaul the look into something more professional, so you will want to buy two separately. My buddy suggested two different ones, Black and Brown.
    
• Wet Pallette
  
  • I am yet to have this conversation without the other person talking to me like they're running for president. Wet Pallettes are a necessity. They ensure you do not waste paint, keeps your paint consistently viable while using it, and helps with storing it. I've heard a couple of days, others say months. Who knows. I'm yet to start painting, but I'm just going to say don't even mess around and just get/build one.
    
  • Tabletop Minions has a great video to show you how to make one for the lo-lo.
    
• Mini Painting Holder
  
  • If you're not looking risk smudging the paint when you're holding your mini, then this is for you. Bonus points for reducing your chances of arthritis.
    
  • You COULD get something like THIS. But I feel that because it holds onto the sides, you can't really use it to paint the base.
    
  • What I ended up doing was buying 3 bottles of champagne, cutting off the top of one of them, and then gluing & duct taping it all together. I haven't tested out its balance yet but odds are, I'm going to have to do something so its stable and I can rest it on the table standing up without worry. Bonus, I was pretty drunk for a bit.
    
    

    Theory is Great and All (11.13.19)
    

    
    So here are my updates from actually painting.
    
    

• Mini Painting Holder
  
  • LOL. Welp. didn't turn out as expected. Glue didn't stick and I had to use so much duct tape that it looks like a toxic sushi roll. Yum. We'll see how it works when I get to the actually mini painting.
    
  • https://imgur.com/sU1bqxE
    
• Paaaaaint
  
  • Welp. I'm pretty sure I added too much water. I also definitely did not mix enough of it. I'm going for a deep green metallic look and only mixed enough for one coat..... lmao. Thankfully its just the 1st so I'm hoping when I mix a boatload of it, even if the hue is different, it won't matter much.
    
  • Wet pallete: Definitely worked out. Do it.
    
  • Because of the paint being too watery, you can see some spots where it pooled. Again, gonna take it easier on the water the second time around and hope it covers up the bad stuff
    
  • In being careful with the finer details, I didn't care too much. Some paint here and there won't change much and should be unnoticeable after a few more careful coats of the actual color I want to use, when I get there.
    
  • https://imgur.com/jiNNc1A
    
    

    Life Sucks and I haven't gotten much done (11/15/19)
    

    
    So I was only able to apply a second coat of to what I've already done. But honestly, not too shabby! Apparently I didn't water down the paint too much.
    
    https://imgur.com/gallery/lA9LV1N
    
    Also, I recently switched to a different cell phone carrier, and got a $200 prepaid card.... So I'm getting these.
    
    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004INERK4/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A3TMLEXVMVIW94&psc=1
    
    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002JLVM5U/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?smid=A1Y3PCPH3CY53X&psc=1
    
    There's a blog that I found (will have to find it again later) that recommended these.

1. You can, but you don't have to. If you like the color your kit came with then why bother clear coating. The clear coating will alter the kit's shine slightly and if you don't want to change the gold, why bother. Clear coating is really a way to protect paint jobs, or have your kit look less plastic-y so if you're not doing any paint jobs on the kit, a clear coat really isn't needed. You might want to have it on if you've got decals on though.
   
2. Depends on where you are in the world, some countries sell gunpla at a lower price than other countries. I often visit family in Australia and on average prices are higher compared to where I am in Asia. HLJ.com is probably the best place to get gunpla as they tie the prices to what they are in Japan. But if you're in the US you definitely have more online options (NewtypeHQ, USA Gundam)
   
3. There isn't a best overall product line up. Each individual kit has it's good and it's bads so it's more of a case by case basis. If you're interested in a kit, do your research.
   
4. You'd want to use a variety of sanding tools to get the best results. But generally you'd want to use a firm sanding stick like this from GodHands for flat surfaces (you can custom make these using wooden ice cream sticks) and sanding sponges like these for rounded surfaces. Don't use a sponge-y sanding product on flat or angled surfaces because you risk softening the edges. Hobby file have their place in the toolbox as well.
   
5. Try the hobby branded brushes (Tamiya, Gaianotes are good long living brushes in my experience). They can be a little bit pricey but these guys know what they're doing. Check out youtube channels that focus on painting miniatures, they do a lot of hand painting and generally have good recommendations for brushes.
   
6. Nope, cotton swabs are cotton swabs. The hobby brands usually carry different shapes of cotton swabs that might help you get into places that regular old cotton swab won't reach. But if you just need regular old cotton swab go to your nearest pharmacy, not the hobby store. Unless you're interested in something like this from gaianotes for cleaning up panel lines and detail painting, which I've been using for the past month or so and these are just great.
   
7. Aside from paints that can harden and become unusable after some period of time, you don't really need to store things like thinners, glue, decal softeners in a special environment. Try to keep them at room temperature and these things will last you a long long time. I've no idea what happens to these things if you put them in freezing conditions though, we don't have winters where I'm from
   
8. Well Tamiya tweezers are of good quality, but you can get good quality tweezers from other hobby brands for say 5-10 dollars cheaper. Look into Mineshima or WAVE (and I'm sure there are other brands out there) for alternative hobby-grade tweezers. But you can't really go wrong with Tamiya either.
   
9. I personally use 1 blade per kit, though I really ever only make MG or RE/100 kits.
   
   Opinionated Answers:
   
   
10. I would build any MG kit, just because it's a grade I stick to. No particular model of mobile suit that I'm really into, but if I had to choose a favorite kit probably the Hyaku Shiki 2.0
    
11. My least favorite gunpla, and this might be sort of an unpopular opinion, would be any variant of the Unicorn. I'm just into the overall design of the Unicorn and watching the anime made me even more disinterested because there was too much newtype space magic in there for it to make sense to me.

Depends on what you mean by "best" and "beginner" ...

Are you looking for the best in bang for the $$ as someone beginning in the hobby?

Best as in "easy" for a beginner to use?

OR best as in the best quality paints/colors regardless of price or difficulty?

--------------

Here's a quick rundown:

• Games Workshop / Citadel Paints - These are easy to use for a beginner because all of the Games workshop guides, the paint app, and Warhammer TV videos use these paints in an almost paint by numbers fashion. This helps a beginner easily match the classic paint schemes on the box. Due to these detailed guides, you can buy exactly the paint pots you need. And they are readily available to pickup individual paint pots at your local GW store. Downside is the price and paint pots vs paint droppers.
  
• Army Painter - Arguably the value winner as the boxed sets let you get colors for a bit under $2 a dropper bottle. Though you need to spend a little upfront to grab a while boxed set. Paints are solid mini paints, but require LOTS of shaking before use to make sure the medium and pigments blend well. Metallics leave a bit to be desired, but are plenty good for a beginner. Washes/shade are excellent. Army painter also has a nice line of colored spray primers that match the brushed sets. Allowing you to get a very smooth and quick first layer down along with the primer..
  
• Vallejo - Quality paint dropper that for the most part, is cheaper than GW paints. Lots of 3rd Party painting guides use Vallejo. Available in kits or individual bottles. My problem is that I have trouble getting them locally or via my prefered online vendors. They are frequently out of stock or have stopped carrying them.
  
• Reaper - I don't have personal experience with these paints but have a friend that loves them and the ability to inexpensively order exactly what colors you want directly from the reaper website.
  
• Scale75 - Expensive high end paints that are likely more than a beginner needs. I'm just starting to get into them. Don't have enough experience to recommend them, yet.
  
  
  -----
  
  Suggested starting kits:
  
  
• Games Workshop - 40k - https://www.miniaturemarket.com/gw-60-12-13.html or AoS - https://www.amazon.com/Warhammer-Age-Sigmar-Paints-Tools/dp/B07FNS1Z8P/
  
• Army Painter - https://smile.amazon.com/Miniature-Painting-Bonus-Wargamer-Regiment/dp/B01MTXRUUT/ + to make shaking them easier https://www.amazon.com/Stainless-Steel-Shakers-250-balls/dp/B01GEN9MK0/
  
• Vallejo - https://www.amazon.com/Game-Color-Intro-Set-16/dp/B000PHCTRK/
  
  Don't forget spray primers first.

For airbrushes, I'm personally a fan of the Neo by Iwata, especially their gravity feed (cup) model. The brush is well built, fairly easy to take apart and clean, and has very few issues with most paints and other products you may put through it.

I picked mine up on sale for around $50, and if you have a Michael's or Hobby Lobby nearby, you may be able to pick it for less with one of their one-item coupons they release occasionally. It's also nice if you have a hobby store near by as you can drop in a pick up replacement needles or nibs if you accidentally drop it >.>; . Needles and nibs typically cost in the 10-15 dollar range for replacements, so not too terrible.

For compressors, a simple compressor with a tank will work wonderfully, so long as it has a proper pressure regulator and water trap. I have this compressor and it works well, after I got the correct airbrush hose to attach to the NEO.

There are a couple extra tools that can help with airbrushing as well, but most can be picked up at a later point. Something I would recommend that you get with the initial purchase is a spray booth. This allows you a place to spray into and capture many of the errant particles of paint from your airbrush. Combined with a proper respirator mask, it will ensure that you don't breath in any of the particulate from airbrushing, and hopefully don't have airbrush paints drying on items they weren't directly sprayed on. I would say of the two, the mask is the most important to have.

A quick-disconnect is useful for cleaning and swapping airbrushes, but isn't really necessary at first. A cleaning pot is also useful as it gives you a dedicated space to spray out leftover paint and cleaing fluid, and should stay fairly contained.

I would also look at purchasing a ultrasonic cleaner further on, as it is amazingly helpful for cleaning the airbrush when paint has leaked into the body, or spilled into places it shouldn't be.

Other's can probably offer advice as well, but that's what I currently use. Hope this helps!

I'm making some educated guesses on what the OP did, but a base like this is a lot easier than it looks.

The main parts are cork, glued together, painted black and dry brushed with shades of grey. Peronsally I try and ripup my cork by hand to give it a more natural appearence.

In various spots it looks like he glued on small pieces of rock and treated with the same paint as the cork. I typically use this

The grass can also be purchased. I use items like this.

Hope this helps, making bases is fun and adds a great layer to your models.

I've done business with Plaza Japan in the past, they have a good selection and low prices; you'll pay for shipping so best or order more than just one product to take advantage of that.

​

Amazon isn't bad, just check the prices compared to other stores. I've gotten great deals, and I've seen items posted at silly prices too. If you got prime then shipping is covered, although keep in mind that lots of the low price ship kits are shipped from Japan so the free shipping takes a while. Also read the reviews, I've had a couple of sellers not ship but Amazon had my back every time.

​

As for tips for a beginner, get the right tools right off the bat, this tool kit is a good start, I like these brushes (although you might want to get an additional bigger one as well), and I use this brush cleaner. Get a paint pallet for mixing, remember some paints like Tamiya need thinner while ones like AK don't. For more on brushes watch this quick video. You'll likely want some modeling masking tape. If you'll be doing something with lots of decals like a Carrier get some Microset & Microsol plus decal/hobby scissors. You'll need some kind of filler putty, I like miliput. Later on you'll want to mess with things like washes (vallejo makes a great out of the bottle wash) simple washes can make you stuff suddenly look pro because of what it does to small details, if you're going to be doing ships with specific paint schemes look in to the AK sets they'll be 5-6 colors all as part of a theme (like Royal Navy ships).

​

Most importantly you should start with something cheap. Your first few models will be learning experiences, so play around with those cheap $10 IJN destroyer kits till you get comfortable, use it to test painting techniques, then build that $50 HMS Ark Royal kit.

Cheater!

I kid. Airbrushing is gonna make a huge difference on your kits. I have no experience with them, but I can imagine it being a lot like spray painting, only cheaper and better. I had an awesome time using Tamiya sprays on my MG Sinanju, but the price per can was ridiculous. Also, I see a lot of juicy panel lines on your kits. Try getting one of these for the white pieces and one of these for the other coloured pieces. They're cheap, easy to use, and will make your models looks so much better.

And yeah, gunpla is a pretty expensive hobby to get into, but I've always thought that one MG every three months is a good way to treat myself. It also encourages me to take my time building it so I don't do a piss poor rush job on them.

I used one I made myself for awhile but then I got this guy and love it

Privateer Press Formula P3 Wet Palette Model Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001F8OLZQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_AcY6ybEHZ15VM

If you just search wet pallet on Amazon a few good ones will come up.

I like wet palette over a dry because paint stays fresher, it actually helps to thin the paint out some, I can create my own thin shades much easier since they aren't getting soaked up by a paper pallet.

You can not leave your paint in it overnight though, at least not in my experience. I tried it and when I came back next day my paint was basically liquid from where it absorbed so much water.

Hope that helps

you don't have to if you're applying it to unpainted pieces., but a good acrylic gloss coat (i.e. using Future/Pledge or similar) can help it go on even easier. The gloss coat will also help protect the plastic from the enamel and thinner.

If the piece that you're lining is particularly thin or in a high-stress area you might want to go ahead and give it a quick gloss coat, otherwise I don't think it's really necessary.

If you're applying it to painted pieces, you'll want to coat them with an acrylic gloss first, or you'll likely have issues getting an even application.

The amount used for panel lining is so small that I don't usually bother with a gloss coat unless I've painted the piece first.

For clean up I love the Tamiya hobby cotton swabs in small and medium

They hold up a lot better than your typical q-tip style cotton swab and are easy to dampen without getting them too wet. I generally just dip the tip in the thinner and let it soak up a little (happens really quick) and then rub a little off on a paper towel.

The bottles for the Tamiya accent also last forever. I've done 2 PG kits, 7-8 MG's and a 1/100 Barbatos with the black and I still have more than half of the bottle left.

Pretty big entrance.

----

• PG Banshee only comes with sticker decals, therefore no decal binding solution is required.
  
  
• As your first kit, I would recommend against painting. Without any planning, painting can cause several problems such as joints being too tight (can break off), pegs become too thick, paint pooling, etc. A straight assemble with basic detailing techniques is recommended (clean nub, panel line, decals and top coat).
  
  
• Fine point Gundam Markers are great for panel lining. No fuzz, easy clean up and fairly cheap. Pretty beginner friendly. I recommend mixing your own solution when you become more familiar with the hobby.
  
  --------------------
  
  As for top coat, below are the two most popular choices:
  
  
• Gloss - shiny, thicker and will darken the overall tone.
  
  
• Matte - remove a lot of shine and will slightly brighten the tone of your kit.
  

I use gw paints, mainly because I just always have, and I'm used to them, but if you wanna use some better quality, most people recommend vallejo or army painter. You can get a pretty good start with a variety of colors for army painter on Amazon for a pretty good price.

https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B01MTXRUUT/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_B706BbA6TT14G


And I know you didn't, but I use their brushes, this set is a good starting point.

https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00HC8H4EI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_F806BbW819S9Q

I believe I have finally decided on my first Gunpla, the HG Age II Magnum and want to make sure the items I have added to my Amazon cart are ideal or not for a beginner/future use for HG and MG kits. The list is as follows:

• Gundam Model Builder's Cutting Mat 12"x9"
  
• Findfly 9Pcs Gundam Model Tool Kit
  
• Gundam Marker Value Set
  
• Mr. Super Clear Flat Spray
  
• Bamboo Skewers
  
• Alligator Clips
  
• ScotchBlue Painter's Tape
  
• Styrofoam Blocks
  
  I know that this sub has a list of tools and tutorials, but because I'm trying to budget, I was thinking no more than $100 would be ideal for me to start with. Since I'm beginning with HG models, I don't think I need a full set of Gundam markers, but if it's needed/required/highly suggested, I might pick them up as well.
  
  So I have read and seen that top coating and panel lining are essential for MG models to make them pop. Are they just as essential for HG model kits? Looking at pictures of the Age II Magnum I'm planning on getting from Amazon, it doesn't seem to have a lot of indents for panel lining. Of course, I could be wrong and be blind as a bat. If I don't do any sort of panel lining, is it still a good idea to add a top coat regardless?
  
  Also, how soon can one get into MG kits? I was originally going to jump straight into either the MG GM Sniper II or the RX-78-2 Ver 3.0 but after doing some research over the past few days, I've decided I'll be doing a few HG's to begin with as I haven't built model kits since I was like 7 or 8 with my dad. I'm thinking after the Age II Magnum, I was thinking about getting either the HG Double O Diver or the HG 00 Shia Qan[T]. Maybe after I complete the 3 HG's I've listed, is it possible to jump to the the GM Sniper II?
  
  TL;DR:
  
  

• Are the items I have listed a good starting point?
  
  
• Is a full set of Gundam Markers a necessity for HG/beginners?
  
  
• Are panel lining and top coatings important for HG model kits?
  
  
• Is it okay to use top coat on an HG model if no panel lining is used?
  
  
• Edit Do people usually top coat the accessories? I can't seem to find any info on that.
  
  
• What color panel lining pens do people normally use based on different parts of Gunpla's?
  
  
• What level of skill should one be at before getting into MG model kits?
  
  

By Zaku Revive, did you mean one of the Origin kits or the Gouf Revive? Because I don't believe they have released a Zaku Revive yet. As for what to build next, pretty much any modern HG kit is going to be easy to assemble, but the Revive kits are some of the best out there. Unfortunately, there is no Guntank Revive, but the Guncannon Revive is a great kit, and the Zeon side has the Gouf Revive and Gyan Revive so far.

As for panel lining, you just need some lining markers or pens (I suggest these). All you need to do is use them to fill in the panel lines on the kit and maybe some of the other recesses (you can look at photos of the kit with panel lines in the instruction manual for guidance) and then use some Q-tips to wipe off the excess.

A wet palette would be good for starters. If she's ready for nicer brushes and understands how to care for them, a couple Windsor Newton Series 7 brushes could be a good idea. A new lamp might be good, lighting can make a huge difference. Look for a full spectrum lamp on an adjustable arm if you go this route, or consider an LED arch. A subscription to one of the better painter Patreons or a subscription box like Asset Drop might be worth looking at too. I'm honestly not very familiar with the different painter Patreons, so can't really recommend a specific one.

You're going to find that you can either get some decent gear upfront for a realistic price, or you can go cheap and have to replace poorly performing gear almost immediately, which is the expensive way to go. These items below come in within your listed budget and will give you good service for years.

Get a compressor with a tank. Those cheap air compressors may save you thirty dollars upfront, but you're really going to regret having that on-demand-only air pressure bobbing up and down and screwing up your air flow. This Master TC-20T is a good buy. Get the TC-40T for twenty dollars more if you're going to want to do other types of spray paint art in the future. This one has more endurance before heating up. I own one of these and they are quality gear at a good price.

Get a decent starter air brush. This Iwata Neo Dual Action is good for a starter and yet isn't too expensive so if you screw it up you won't break the bank. At the same time, the machining of the parts is much, much better than those cheap Master sets which really aren't good at all. Granted, you may get lucky and get a good-yet-cheap Master air brush, but more likely than not, you'll spend most of your time trying to get the thing to give you a spray without splatter.

Get a quick release coupling set for the airbrush. Having to use a wrench to attach the air brush gets old really, really fast -- like immediately -- and the ten or so bucks makes it a great deal. Iwata-Medea Quick Disconnect Set

I use gold, silver, and copper paint markers specifically gundam markers and sharpies

For the gundam markers I got the metallic gundam marker set: https://www.amazon.com/GSI-Creos-Gundam-Metallic-Marker/dp/B00KBRFOIU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1467993243&sr=8-1&keywords=gundam+marker+metallic

The gold and silver from that set is super useful but the other colors less so, they're okay but can be really uneven in the color they put out so I'd suggest for the other colors only for small and very few spots on a kit to lower your chances of getting inconsistent color (again though this is not a problem with the gold and silver they're great)

For the sharpies I used a metallic marker pack that I bought at Wal-Mart that has gold, silver, and bronze: https://www.amazon.com/Sharpie-Metallic-Permanent-Assorted-1829201/dp/B007QNWC3M/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1467993555&sr=8-1&keywords=Metallic+sharpie+markers (It was like this pack, same markers but only one of each and it was really cheap like around $3-$5)

The sharpies are great they don't really spill like the gundam markers can but the downside to them is that they can kind of streak easily especially on bigger surfaces and they can rub off fairly easily which is great for cleaning areas where you accidentally covered, but can be a little frustrating when the color rubs away on areas that you wanted the metallic color (top coat helps protect the paint)

I have found that the easiest (and cheapest) way to up your model kit game is to panel line them. It makes the color separation pop way more, and helps define the proportions of a kit much better. A three pack of the panel linking markers are on Amazon for 5-7$ usa (link below). I recommend using the gray marker for white parts, brown for red orange gold and yellow parts, and black for blue gray and silver parts. The markers last a very long tine as well.

Another way is to buy some sanding sticks (10$ roughly for a 4 pack) and work on carefully removing nub marks. It will really improve the final presentation on the finished model. Start with a lower grit stick to remove the nub, and then increase the grit to polish away the scratches. If done correctly (I'm still working on this too) it will look like the nub was never there.

I Hope this helps, from one modeler to another.

Panel lining markers:

GSI Creos Gundam Marker Value Set -GM01&02&03- (Black, Gray, Brown) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HY93GHY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_xt-2DbKF7CZZR



Sanding sticks:

Squadron Products Value Pack Sanding Stick https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CDR5K8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_AC-2Db3ZFSJ3K



Edit: also the panel lining will help the paint job pop. In addition I'd saw use multiple coats from the gundam makers if possible.

here is my set up. nothing to complain about. and the badger 105 is a great starter. its use of good machining means it only has one o-ring and its dead simple to clean.

https://www.amazon.com/Badger-Air-Brush-Patriot-Gravity-Airbrush/dp/B002W84GTO

https://www.amazon.com/Master-Airbrush-Fitting-Conversion-Adapter/dp/B0038NJYHG/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_201_lp_t_3?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=9CTBV4FN6C10RQSFJXPG

https://www.amazon.com/AIRBRUSH-COMPRESSOR-Airbrush-Published-Exclusively/dp/B001738DXU/ref=sr_1_4?s=arts-crafts&ie=UTF8&qid=1505354405&sr=1-4&keywords=master+airbrush+1%2F6

then you will need cleaning supplies such as

https://www.amazon.com/Naturebelle-Airbrush-Cleaning-Holder-Nozzle/dp/B01D41W04U/ref=pd_sim_201_12?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=3SG1JR28SAK6TVWHEZ03

https://www.amazon.com/Iwata-Medea-Airbrush-Cleaner-16-Oz/dp/B003TJA0SQ/ref=sr_1_1?s=arts-crafts&ie=UTF8&qid=1505354507&sr=1-1&keywords=iwata%2Bairbrush%2Bcleaner&th=1

I'm pretty happy with the quality of everything and it makes painting a base coat of pure white or yellow super simple. also makes painting a color shift or pattern very easy. if you have the cash i would highly recommend it

here are some of my projects i have completed with it

https://imgur.com/a/N4mhr

As others have said, splitting either the tempest of souls or the souls wars box with someone is probably the cheapest way to start. There's also a great value paint set for the two factions that come in the boxes, stormcast and nighthaunt, as well. (Although I'd recommend an x-acto knife instead of the little piece of metal they give you). If you don't have anyone to split it with, or if you're not interested in stormcast or nighthaunt, then the start collecting boxes are your next best bet. Flesh eater courts and skeleton hordes are good value for the death factions, and the Khorne goreblade warband or either nurgle box is a good value for chaos. You can get a better look at all the factions on games workshop's website, but the prices there are a bit higher, which is why I've been linking to amazon. Simply going for the cheapest box might be tempting, but I'd make sure that you actually like the army you're buying. I know from experience that if you don't really like the look or feel of an army, it can be really difficult to feel motivated to paint and assemble them. I have a blast painting goblins, for example, but trying to paint fyreslayers was super boring to me.

What I like to do is as I build the Model, i do not fully assemble but test fit to get a feel for what is covered/not covered as well as if I need to fill any gaps. From there, I put the parts on some clip sticks to prime and spray. I use a piece of styrofoam to hold all the clips while I'm painting. Once the colors are all where I want them to be, then I assemble it all and do touch ups where needed.

As for general airbrushing, I practiced on ping pong balls before I tried painting models. It's something somewhat challenging to practice getting even costs on a uneven surface as well as a good way to learn control for your brush. Along with that, I also sprayed on paper just to experiment with spray patterns at different angles and pressures.

Here's a link to those clip sticks I was talking about. Good luck on your next build!
http://www.amazon.com/Bluecell-Alligator-Stick-Airbrush-Hobby/dp/B00CWRCO6M

Great job first time out! I remember this kit fondly and can’t believe you found one. Everything u/levrin said is correct. If you are looking to continue, at the very least I recommend going out and purchasing an exacting knife/side cutters/ a set of paneling markers/and tweezers for decals.
Again. Great first outing and welcome to the hobby!
side cutters
paneling markers
tweezers
knife

Hope this helps

For beginners the HG RX 78-2 Revive is a great kit for starting. Few stickers, and nice part color separation. It's 1/144 scale, so just take your time to avoid breaking any parts.

$10 USD - amzn.com/B00WW4F8YA

You can also get some panel lining Gundam Markers to help highlight vents, details, parts of interests, etc. The RX 78-2 is a good kit to also practice panel lining.

$9 USD - amzn.com/B00HY93GHY

As for tools, something like this should get you by for now since you're just starting the hobby. Has everything you need to get building.

$17 USD - amzn.com/B01GHA6C7G

Well, the only things you really need to build a kit are a pair of hobby clippers and motivation. Everything else is optional, depending on how much effort you wanna put into making your model look as best as possible(hell, I used nail clippers of all things with my first gunpla because I didn't want to invest in tools before actually building one for myself and knowing if this was a hobby I wanted to pursue or not).

For this one I actually got a modeling toolkit, some Gundam markers for panel lining and a small cutting mat through amazon(although you might be able to find them at local hobby stores as well). I can't really speak for other tools, but these ones worked pretty well for me. If you're worried about costs you can always start with just some basic tools and slowly build your toolbox up from there as you build more models. Hopefully you have as much fun with your first gunpla as I had with mine!

P.S. Remember I'm also a newbie so take all of this with a grain of salt

Those sets actually look really awesome and right in the price range I was willing to spend. Might grab both! Thanks for the recommendation.

For brushes I saw army painter has this set it looks like it has the brushes you recommend and then some. Have you found the bristles of these brushes stay together well? I know on small brushes you will always have some minor separation because of their size.

Also what do you use to clean your brushes? I figured id pick some of this Master Brush Cleaner while i'm at it.

Anyone know where to easily obtain Gaia Notes stuff in the US? I can order off Amazon, bit it'll take nearly a month. Looking specifically for the Gaia Notes Finish Master.
It's like a super-dense, flat q-tip. Saw a guy on YouTube use it with lighter fluid to clean panel lines pretty roughly and it didn't pull paint from inside the panel line at all. Good alternative suggestions also appreciated.

> Model Air is already thinned, so 1:1 for Model Air means 2:1 (thinner:paint) for normal vallejo paints?

Yup. I dont think its that much thinner though because the vallejo model airs paints come out of the bottle just a little thick. Its not hugely important to follow ratios but make sure you have the right consistency. You have probably heard this but you want that milk consistency.

> It looks a little bit dense

I thought so too. It flows really well though. I really only use it on stuff that is going to be matte. My goto is the Vallejo thinner.

But ya... Try playing with your paint consistency and air pressure. Keep your needle tip clean they can get dry paint on them in just a few seconds in some conditions.

OH! also if you dont have it get your self a bottle of REGDAB its needle lube. I put it on my needle before I put it away and it really keeps paint from sticking the next time I use it. Its a great investment for just a few bucks.

The 3-pack of markers for bold lines:

https://www.amazon.com/GSI-Creos-Gundam-Marker-Value/dp/B00HY93GHY/ref=sxts_sxwds-bia?crid=3GTR0RXGUXX4H&keywords=gundam+marker+set&pd_rd_i=B00HY93GHY&pd_rd_r=3b3b062e-d90d-495a-8e52-176ed31b8ba1&pd_rd_w=RRUZa&pd_rd_wg=sdCxW&pf_rd_p=a5491838-6a74-484e-8787-eb44c8f3b7ff&pf_rd_r=9A24ZX8C18EJZBXABCXP&psc=1&qid=1571687311&sprefix=gundam+marker%2Caps%2C152

Tamiya ink works differently, it will spread down the lines: (Comes in a variety of colors)
https://www.amazon.com/TAMIYA-87131-Panel-Accent-Plastic/dp/B01HDJ7BR0/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=tamiya+ink&qid=1571687349&s=toys-and-games&sr=1-1

​

And I like to use this for fine details, it is thinner than the Gundam markers:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002UCSNQY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

These I use for cleaning, the middle grit will take off ink, then the fine will buff the marks:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00R34AE66/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

Hope this is helpful, good luck!

Great job. Really, it looks awesome. I would agree with Rouge-Y though, note necessarily thinner panel lines, but lighter. What you have there would be great for darker plastic. I would recommend the gray panel line marker or a mechanical pencil for white and yellow pieces.

The gray panel line marker is my bread and butter:
http://www.amazon.com/GSI-Creos-Point-Gundam-Marker/dp/B006B3YYZM/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1453841124&sr=8-5&keywords=panel+line

I just watched 00 a few weeks ago and Virtue/Nadleeh is my favorite design from that series. Kit looks great, I've been tempted to get one myself but I have 3 MGs on the slow boat from Japan that will take me a bit to build. To take your kit to another level, look into panel lining. I bought this set and it's suuuuper easy and makes kits look incredible, especially on a kit that's mostly one color like this (the legs of Nadleeh especially).

On a side note, I don't remember Nadleeh having this shield/rifle combo in the anime, any idea if this was from the one mission where they sent it out as Nadleeh instead of Virtue?

Iwata and Badger are generally considered high quality air brushes. I have an Iwata Eclipse so will speak to what I know of it.

You probably want to get an airbrush that is gravity fed. It has a bowl in the top that you pour the paint into. You can do a little mixing in the airbrush that way, to get the color and consistency you need conveniently.

Don't skimp on the compressor. There are 2 kinds: Constant flow or chambered. One just pumps air in constantly and stays on. The other fills a chamber then shuts off and you use the chambered air to spray. If you go with a constant flow airbrush, get a long hose to mitigate the pulsing of the compressor. Shoot, get a long hose anyway because it's great to have. If you can afford it, this is top of the line: https://www.amazon.com/Iwata-Medea-Studio-Double-Piston-Compressor/dp/B000TLSYB2/ref=sr_1_7?s=toys-and-games&ie=UTF8&qid=1536160547&sr=1-7&keywords=airbrush+compressor

Get one of these, they're awesome, you'll see why: https://www.amazon.com/Iwata-Medea-Universal-Spray-Out-Pot/dp/B01DYN6ESG/ref=sr_1_cc_1?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1536160284&sr=1-1-catcorr&keywords=iwata+pot

Buy a mask. Don't airbrush indoors without one. You will inhale particles that you can't see and it will definitely cause issues with your lungs. Don't airbrush indoors without a booth or some way to suck up particulate from overspray. I use a home made rig that is a box fan with an air filter. It works like a charm but if you've got the cash, buy a manufactured one.

Pro tip: If you have a Hobby Lobby or Michaels near you they tend to have weekly 40% off one item coupons. They also tend to carry some mid range airbrush compressors and high end airbrushes. Check out what they have and if you like their stuff get that sweet 40% off these 2 big ticket items (you'll have to do 2 visits to the store to get the discount twice).

That's all I got.

Thanks for the advice, very much appreciated! In the end I have decided to grab this set. With te current ebay discount deal I got it for £20 all in so seems like good value for money and should be a good start!

This marker is probably all you will need for a while, as long as you are gentle with the tip.

If you have a hobby shop nearby, it might be easier (and probably cheaper) than Amazon. The grey marker brings out panel lines and shadows best on white, grey, and lighter blue/green colors. All you need to clean up the lines is a Q-tip and a tiny amount of butane/lighter fluid.

However, once you get into the hobby more and are building more (1-3 models per month, in my estimate), you may want to invest in a pre-mixed set of panel washes for use on different colors.

I was in the same boat as you. This is all the stuff I bought: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0067BAYNO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1, https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001738DXU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1, https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KS1II96/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1, https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003TJA0SQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1,https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004BN5RUU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 .

I also bought an assortment of paints I thought I'd need. I went with the Vallejo Game Air line. If you look around, you'll see the stuff I bought recommended by many people for novice airbrushers.

Also, when I bought all that stuff, I signed up for the Amazon Prime credit card as well, so I ended up getting like $120 off that order. It worked out pretty well.

10 Miniature Paint Brushes with FREE Masterclass Kolinsky Sable Hair Brush - Durable Miniatures Paint Brush Set, Wargamer Brushes with Comfortable Grip - Wargames Mega Brush Set by The Army Painter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HC8H4EI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_gx-1Ab7S8ZM2F
Highly recommend this set over the stuff at hobby lobby I’ve bought several brushes from hobby lobby and have liked none of as much as the brushes from this set

Tamiya makes different sized q-tips which are stiff so they are absorbent but won't reach into all areas like a normal q-tip. I use them regularly to clean up panel accent on features which don't have a defined or deep groove to protect the desired wash.

An example: Tamiya Craft Cotton Swab, Triangle Xsmall 50 p TAM87105 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0026IBC38/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_cnEEAbQ2FTAWS

well.... its a start

The good news is this was a cheap HG kit, which is what I recommend most people start off with instead of an expensive MG Kit.

Now OP its time to buy some real tools, here is the CHEAPEST tools you can buy that will give you good quality and last you a long time.


Black, Grey and Brown Gundam Markers $7.00

Xuron 410 cutters $10

Scalper holder with 100 Blades $10

Total cost $27 and you can build a TON of kits with those tools

These are the BARE minimum you need, but I would recommned you pick up some paints and tiny brushes. The colors you should get are black, white, grey, red, blue and yellow. Any paints will do but I recommend tamiya acrylics since they are non toxic and easy to dilute with water.

GSI Creos AMS 121 Gundam Metallic Marker Set https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KBRFOIU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_IeLzDbZJT2579

I used all the colors but the silver (was worried about the metallic red but pleased with how it turned out), and I would highly recommend these. Not too bad price wise about $10 for the set.

Hahaha. No problem
(Hobby Link Japan Marker Black)
https://hlj.com/gundam-marker-black-fine-tip-for-panel-lines-gnzgm01
(Hobby Link Japan marker Grey)
https://hlj.com/gundam-marker-gray-fine-tip-for-panel-lines-gnzgm02
(Amazon set of 3) https://www.amazon.com/GSI-Creos-Gundam-Marker-Value/dp/B00HY93GHY/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?keywords=panel+line&qid=1569935250&sr=8-2
(Amazon Tamiya Panel Wash Black)
https://www.amazon.com/TAMIYA-87131-Panel-Accent-Plastic/dp/B01HDJ7BR0/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?keywords=panel+line&qid=1569935250&sr=8-4
(Amazon Tamiya Panel Wash Grey)
https://www.amazon.com/Panel-Line-Accent-Color-Light/dp/B07CMSBDCB/ref=mp_s_a_1_8?keywords=panel+line&qid=1569935250&sr=8-8
I put links from Hobby link Japan because thats what people here recommend using, bit I also put Amazon because it might be easier for you. Unfortunately I couldn't find the wash on Hobby link. Happy Building 😁

I agree that in terms of "cost per hour" gunpla isn't that bad at all. As for why I've dropped so much, I've got a friend who is deployed to Korea right now. He's only going to be out there 6 more months, so I asked him to send me a bunch of stuff- 11 kits totaling $270. So yeah, that hurt the wallet, but it means I'll be able to focus on buying supplies like paint and tools for a while!

I just got my panel markers actually. Ordered off Amazon and didn't notice that they were an item that was shipped from Japan. The set only cost $6 for gray, black and brown, but it took 6weeks.

Newtypehq has them at $3 each, but if you are in the states shipping is quick.

https://newtypehq.com/products/gundam-marker-liner-type?variant=14993675681841

If you're ok waiting, here's the link for the seller I bought from.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00HY93GHY/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I feel you. I just suggested them to another user, but you should check out these. They come with a panel lining marker, and the metallic ones are great for accents and the like.

Not worries, just sharing my experience and offering some advice ;)

That back of 200 clips is only $14 which comes out to $0.07 a piece for very high quality clips. Paired with 4mm skewers and they offer a far superior tool.

I do like these little tiny ones for the smaller parts though. I picked up this set for $0.11 a piece and while the red insulation is useless, they're good clips for small parts as long as you secure them with some other adhesive.

https://www.amazon.com/Tamiya-Cotton-Triangle-Xsmall-TAM87105/dp/B0026IBC38

These work really well for that, be careful in the panel lines. I have found that the paint tends to be thinner in those area so the acetone will eat through the paint really quickly. I know you're across the pond but I'm pretty sure you can find these in your area.

Gundam Paint Markers - https://www.amazon.com/GSI-Creos-Gundam-Metallic-Marker/dp/B00KBRFOIU/ref=pd_bxgy_21_img_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=RVZRSVSK61CSZE7G2MTB

I used these to gold plate an A-wing. Not the most precise, but looks pretty good. I'll add a picture when I get home.

Oops, theres a typo in there somewhere. If you've got a few extra bucks and live in the US Amazon has a good price on the GM02 with free shipping as well.
https://www.amazon.com/GSI-Creos-Point-Gundam-Marker/dp/B006B3YYZM/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1518123632&sr=8-2&keywords=Gm02+gundam+marker

I think something like this with the three basic colors is pretty good to start with, they'll probably last several kits until you want to start experimenting with paints.

Thank you for the help, I'd also like a QD mount. Here are things ive found. Which one/combination of these things should I get?

https://www.amazon.com/Badger-Air-Brush-Co-51-042-Coupler/dp/B003EGZB2Y/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1549178476&sr=8-4&keywords=badger+quick+disconnect


https://www.amazon.com/Master-Airbrush-Fitting-Conversion-Adapter-x/dp/B0038NJYHG#customerReviews


https://www.amazon.com/Iwata-Medea-I-160-3-Disconnect/dp/B001P5S5CO/ref=sr_1_13?ie=UTF8&qid=1549178637&sr=8-13&keywords=airbrush+quick+disconnect


https://www.amazon.com/Master-Airbrush-Release-Disconnect-Connections/dp/B001MKGOUM/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1549178655&sr=8-5&keywords=badger+quick+disconnect

Make sure you buy a hose if you buy a compressor without one (eg. if you buy used).

You will want to buy a respirator.

You can also jump-start his accessories list by including some cleaning supplies (spray-out pot, airbrush cleaner), as well as some paints/primer/topcoat (tamiya, mr color, vallejo, alclad ii, etc.).

I believe this can all be done with a budget of 300$ (assuming US). At this point, he could start spraying that day if he wanted.

EDIT: I use this Master Airbrush Compressor and the Iwata HP-CS airbrush. I've been happy with them so far, but I do wish I spent a little more on a compressor with a tank (as /u/7x13 recommends).

You can do with out the Testors enamle paint. Also remove the future...its about$5 for shipping you're better off picking it up at Walmart with some Windex to clean up the air brush after you use it.

Here's a better option for the alligator clips
https://www.amazon.com/Bluecell-Alligator-Stick-Airbrush-Generic/dp/B00CWRCO6M/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1473748283&sr=8-1&keywords=Paint+clips

You might need more thinner than 32ml.

I use testors model paint. I fill in what I want to color, squeegee away the excess, wait about 20-30 minutes then lightly wipe away the remaining excess with a rag that has some Hoppes on it. An additional thing that’s helpful are
these q tips. They let you get some very detailed work/cleaning in (like the center of the 6 or the A) because they don’t fall apart and shed like normal q tips. All this is stuff you can get at hobby lobby or michaels for like $15 or so.

A few things are going sideways here.

​

First of all, you don't need every paint. You just don't. Even if you want all the colors, there are other paint companies, I'll link a few. Everyone has their own opinons, of course, on the quality of the various paints. These still range from 1-200 dollars for the paints, but still, a far cry less then you must be paying GW.

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https://www.amazon.com/Miniature-Painting-Bonus-Wargamer-Regiment/dp/B01MTXRUUT?ref_=bl_dp_s_web_7513501011

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https://www.amazon.com/Reaper-Master-Bones-Paint-Complete/dp/B01NAEA1YC/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1540331060&sr=8-5&keywords=reaper+paint+set&dpID=51wdGAzIDyL&preST=_SX300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

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https://www.amazon.com/Vallejo-Game-Color-Basic-Paint/dp/B009LH0YTA/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1540331110&sr=8-8&keywords=reaper+paint+set

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In addition, you can get all the brushes you'll need, in good quality, here

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HC8H4EI/ref=sxts_kp_tr_2?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=8778bc68-27e7-403f-8460-de48b6e788fb&pd_rd_wg=hHPTk&pf_rd_r=0GT4KSMPYRA7JT2FMDYE&pf_rd_s=desktop-sx-top-slot&pf_rd_t=301&pd_rd_i=B00HC8H4EI&pd_rd_w=fbRI0&pf_rd_i=army+painter+brush+set&pd_rd_r=52c35bd8-add2-476d-9143-b6dcc068755e&ie=UTF8&qid=1540331250&sr=2

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If you go for the Army Painter large Paint set, the Army Painter Brush Set, and get Dark Imperium for around 135.00 on Ebay or Amazon, you are looking at 270.00. You can find pretty much every tool that Citadel sells much cheaper elsewhere in the off brand. I don't even use a scraper for example, I use files and cheap craft knife.

> That is part of the reason I'm really looking to go the super-detail route.

Super-detailing might not really lead to "no real analysis." There's details to be worked out such as modified construction order, and what the $&% was the color of THAT part in real life?

But if you think "the more the merrier," I might suggest looking for Aires detail set 4225. Personally, I think the kit is well done enough that my fleet of eleven* of the Tamiya Corsairs only have the Ultracast resin seats

I can't tell you airbrushes really as I've had my setup for over 20 years now. Mine's an Iwata, but even their baseline compressor would eat up a significant portion of your budget there. My local hobby shop sells a variety of brands and the Grex ones seem to be the most popular.

I noticed that you didn't add the sticker on the waist. I would recommend adding it with a toothpick and smoothing it out with a cotton swab. Also, invest in a set of Gundam Markers for panel lining.

​

You can find those here.

​

Otherwise, great job on the modeling!

So i just got back from Asia and got a haul of HG and one RG and MG. I'm just getting back into Gunpla after a 10~year hiatus, and want to take a step up in to beginner level painting/panel lining/etc instead of just straight builds.

Some 1/144s I got that I want to start working on:
HGBF X-1 FullCloth (the one Lucas used in BFT)
V2 AB
HG Wing0
HGBF Wing Honoo? (Its a red.... Wing gundam?)
HD X Divider

I dont know the first thing about painting, and have watched some tutorials here and on youtube.

1. Will the Gundam Colour markers be enough for beginner level of painting and cover most generic colours? I do have painting brushes/trays from my wife's painting tools.
   
   Gundam Marker basic set
   
   Gundam Marker Metallic
   
   
2. I also brought a... thickish? panel line marker instead of a fine tip one. I think its GM301/302 or something. Lets just say i made a mess trying to panel line a SD (Gundam Base limited Musha Godmaru if that matters? ver Clear colour). Is this not used for panel lining? I bought this with recommendation from the staff at Tokyo Gundam Base (using Google Translate...)
   
   
3. I randomly bought a Gloss spray from a shop in Akihabara? I believe that is branded Mr.Hobby? Should it be used because i paint/panel line? I've seen some say before but some also after? or should a gloss coat be done with paint instead of spray?
   
   
4. I browsed around the web and see a "add-on" for HG V2 with the Wings of light effect, but can't seem to find it anywhere? Is there a way I can purchase this? I live in Canada Toronto if that matters.
   
   Thanks in advance for the random questions.

You do have to wait for the paint to dry (doesn't take to long) in between layers. The colors I used are Macragge Blue and White Scar(Games Workshop brand) for this job. I started with Macragge Blue as the base then started to blend the blue with the white as I went into the center. This Techniques is good to practice before you jump into the model. I used a wet palette and Paint Drying Retarder (you can get it much cheaper at your FLGS) for mixing the paint. The main thing is to practice with the blending and know how much to water down the paint. This stuff is second nature to me now that its hard to explain(been painting in the hobby/painting for 7 years now). If you have more question feel free to ask.

Thanks!

Literally metallic gundam markers haha

https://www.amazon.co.uk/GSI-Creos-Gundam-Metallic-Marker/dp/B00KBRFOIU/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1539539201&sr=8-6&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=gundam+markers&dpPl=1&dpID=51CMzZ7y7VL&ref=plSrch

Theres a link to them!

I've seen people selling them at hobby stores, but I just make my own.

For example, you can get a premade set on Amazon for pretty cheap

But that's not how I do it. I went to Wal-Mart and bought a styrofoam block, a package a bamboo skewers (from the grilling section) and a couple packs of alligator clips (from the electronics section). The clips fit perfectly on the end of the skewers, and you just stab them into the styrofoam to dry/cure.

The Gundam Black and Grey markers are ususally the choice tools:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0027ORJ10/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B0027ORJ10&linkCode=as2&redirect=true&tag=goosgunblo-20

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001VJUWX4/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B001VJUWX4&linkCode=as2&tag=goosgunblo-20

but

A set of Sakura Micron markers does the job just as well, for much less $$$!

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0008G8G8Y/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B0008G8G8Y&linkCode=as2&tag=goosgunblo-20

If you're looking to color larger areas, I highly suggest getting some bottles of tamiya paint and a hand brush instead. I have found that the paint markers tend to be streaky.

Although there's all kinds of branded equipment (from pin vises to knives to files) specifically for minis, you usually don't need to get the "official" stuff. Cheap pin vises (for drilling and pinning) can be found at any hobby shop, and my $5 set of files works splendidly.

That said, I did get the official wet pallette simply because it was much smaller than any non-branded ones and takes up less bench space. And, admittedly, I'm ok with paying for the convenience of pre-measured pallette sheets. If you wanted to try out painting with a wet palette (and you should!), you can make your own pretty easily.

You might also consider putting something over the table/desk/whatever you work on. So you don't get paint on it or accidentally cut into it with exacto knives. I just use a desk pad that I found at staples. That way I can also write notes to myself on it.

I bought this kit and I've been having decent luck with it. You might also want to pick up a spray booth and a spray-out pot like this.

I went with the kit because I live in a tiny apartment, so a big and/or loud compressor wouldn't work. You might be able to save some dollars going for something bigger with a tank on it. My understanding is that the brush is much better than no-name cheap airbrushes, but not quite as nice as some of the higher end Iwatas.

This is enough airbrush to learn on and paint basecoats, shading, and block-in colors for miniatures and smaller models, but it doesn't have enough power to be very versatile outside of that range (you're not going to be painting a van with it, and freehanding fine lines/details won't be the best).

They are transparent stickers and dry transfer decals. for panel lining i used these gundam markers. they're pretty neat.

I haven't come across something like that yet. But I have the Mr hobby procon boy that has a adjuster on the back end of the airbrush to limit how far you can pull the trigger. It essentially limits how much paint comes out which is perfect for shading.

GSI Creos Mr. Procon Boy FWA Platinum Airbrush, 0.2mm https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0031M5RE8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_Hkmiyb1VMF6P3

is there a difference between these two gold gundam markers? if there is, what gold do you think would look best for painting the antennas/v fin on the RG unicorn gundam? i am asking because i dont want to use the gold foil sticker for that piece

https://www.amazon.com/Bandai-GM04-Gundam-Marker-Gold/dp/B00750J0EA/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=golda+gundam+marker&qid=1564335050&s=gateway&sr=8-1-spell

and the gold in this pack

https://www.amazon.com/GSI-Creos-Gundam-Metallic-Marker/dp/B00KBRFOIU/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=gold+gundam+marker&qid=1564335062&s=gateway&sr=8-3

Anyone ever use these Finish Master pens. I heard it's just like Mr. Clean's Magic Erasers. I hear people use it matte their pieces but I'm hoping it's not that abrasive.

Yes it will, mostly.

Other things that help: Get lubricant for the needle (for example here: https://www.amazon.com/BADGER-122-Regdab-Airbrush-Lubricant/dp/B000BRMYTC) and use Vallejo air colors.

That will work. I don't use a ultrasonic bath for mine.

I use this for my cleaner Iwata-Medea Airbrush Cleaner 32 oz https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003TJA0SQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_.EDNDbVCPWR7D

This is a good set of videos on airbrush

https://youtu.be/bwLYShS6SIg

I have one of these and love it. It's Mr Hobby (Gunze) from Japan and all signs are it's made by Iwata. Fit and finish is just as good if not better. There is another non-"Platinum" 0.2mm that doesn't have the MAC valve that's a little cheaper but this is the one I have.

Gundam model kits are, well, model kits, of mechs from some anime’s. They look very unique, check out r/gunpla for more. These specific markers are simple to use: just run them into the lines and done! I got this set, which I would recommend: https://www.amazon.com/Gundam-Marker-Value-TAIYO-Corporation/dp/B00HY93GHY/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1535925628&sr=8-2&keywords=gundam+panel+line+marker&dpID=41KeV7gp0LL&preST=_SX300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

Use gray for white, cream, etc. colors (I only used black here as a test); brown for red, yellow, green, etc.; and black for gray, brown, the rest.

Edit: they work well for tanks and terrain especially, where you don’t want to use a lot of wash but still want to have shadows. For them, I use a mix of this marker on the less deep shadows, and a bigger one on the deeper ones. Example: https://imgur.com/a/CycO1Wk the specific thick marker is the black one in this set: https://www.amazon.com/GSI-Creos-Gundam-Marker-Markers/dp/B0009AFN4Y/ref=sr_1_3?s=toys-and-games&ie=UTF8&qid=1535926026&sr=1-3&keywords=gundam+panel+line+marker+set&dpID=51ay1SKBe8L&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch I’m sure you can find one of these individually too, I’m just too lazy to find it right now.

Thanks for the information! I never considered that the Iwata Ninja will pulse air as there is no collection tank.

​

I thought of getting this cleaning kit and this cleaning solution.

If you already have the hose that comes with those China airbrushes (1/8 size). You will need this adapter to be able to fit your badger appropriately to the hose you already have.

A more convenient and practical solution though is to get a Iwata QD set

and then just get a Badger QD adapter. The reason being that 1/8th fittings are more commonly used by more airbrushes (Iwata, Chinese made, GREX, Harder&SteenBeck, Mr.Hobby, Tamiya) than Badger's fittings. Sticking with 1/8th gives you more options and it is better that your Badger adapt to the 1/8th fittings rather than the other way around where you have your China and other airbrushes adapt to Badger's fittings.

Also, for these QD and coupler attachments. I advice you buy the real branded ones from Iwata and Badger. Do not settle for those unknown China branded ones as they leak air horribly.

The gear I used for this, plus the kit itself, I all got from Amazon.

A Basic Modelling Tools Kit and the Gundam Marker Value Set.

My bottle of Vallejo cleaner lasted about a year with a lot of spraying. What you should do is buy a gallon jug of distilled water to flush the airbush then put in the cleaner and run it through. Putting your airbrush in a ultrasonic cleaner after every use is a waste of time and it really doesn't clean it any better then you could by actually doing it. Just buy this big bottle I've linked to and unless you're a pro modeler you will not run out in a year.

Iwata-Medea Airbrush Cleaner 32 oz https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003TJA0SQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Sp.YDbH1S7E3V

http://www.amazon.com/Bluecell-Alligator-Stick-Airbrush-Hobby/dp/B00CWRCO6M/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1417441276&sr=8-2

I bought these and they are pretty decent

Hey everyone!

I'm as new as it gets. So, I made a shopping list after doing some research on everything that I think I need to start. I'll place the links to all the items in the lines below. Everything is on Amazon because... well why not?

Gundam

Glue

Marker

Tweezers

Knife

Cutters

Mat

More Markers!

*Krylon Matte Finish

Am I missing anything?

I use gundam panel lining pens, like these: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HY8JI7C/ref=twister_B01N8TDZIM?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 - black

https://www.amazon.com/GSI-Creos-Point-Gundam-Marker/dp/B006B3YYZM/ref=pd_bxgy_21_img_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B006B3YYZM&pd_rd_r=WF27RX3KPCKMWVEPFH2E&pd_rd_w=5XjyC&pd_rd_wg=XTRl0&psc=1&refRID=WF27RX3KPCKMWVEPFH2E - grey

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01DYN6ESG/ref=od_aui_detailpages01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Like that?

GM01 Black Fine Line https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00HY8JI7C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_eExyybGVJ187W

Gundam Marker GM02 Gray Fine Tip GUNPLA https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B006B3YYZM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_RHxyybAA0VTDA

Grey on white and light colours black on darker colours

GSI Creos AMS 121 Gundam Metallic Marker Set https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KBRFOIU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_1gUYzbAK0T5FT

Keep it a secret okay? ;)

I bought black grey brown on a similar post for my wing zero custom. Black on dark like blue. Gray on whites. Brown on yellows.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HY93GHY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_3N7PybMJYVF88

It's just cheap alligator clips on bamboo skewers. You can buy 25 pre-made for like $5. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CWRCO6M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_8ffRzbMP2AFNG

I use the wet pallet that P3 makes but you can just grab a plastic tub (tupperware clone) and put in a sponge, fill a ways up with water, let the sponge soak up water... top with parchment paper from your kitchen.
Links below to the P3 one and a couple tutorials...

https://www.amazon.com/Privateer-Press-Formula-Palette-Model/dp/B001F8OLZQ
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iUjifHUCHLY
http://www.fullborerminiatures.com/articles/wetpalette.html

Gundam Marker Value Set -GM01&02&03- (Black, Gray, Brown) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HY93GHY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_y0ZqxbBYCHNCM

Three pack of the two pens you have to $9 with Amazon Prime vs the ~$11 for just the grey and black. Saves a buck or two with an extra pen.

Using these for my first build, easy for panel lining. Just have some Q-tips ready for removing excess ink that you don't want, and some IPA for redos.

I bought the same mat and I have no issues with it!

EDIT: I also have the same cutters, works great for me. For the Xacto knife, just want to point out that that one does NOT come with a cap (I made the same issue). There is a version with a cap, then you can just add an extra blade set. Make sure you get the right blade size. That there is a #1.

EDIT2: I got the same sandpaper too lol. I wish I had gotten files since I didn't have something hard to attach the sandpaper too. But that's my preference. Well I don't mean I would want files specifically, but holding a flimsy piece of sand paper to sand hasn't been fun. I need to get some sort of small block to tape it too or something.

My issue is I am not comfortable with the hobby knife, I feel like I have to put to much pressure into removing the nub even with a fresh blade. I will do the alligator trick, would these clips be to large for the method you suggest, some parts seem to small with those clips. Also I make my own sanding sticks but I do have a few sheets of sandpaper left so I will start cutting strips for other kits. Would you recommend I go higher than 2,000? I go 1,000 < 1,500 < 2,000 < Nail Buffer Block < Nail Polish and Shine. But I still see some marks after all this which makes me think I need a higher grit or maybe a fresh stick.

I recently started to gather a startup airbrush supplies and tools.


I purchase some alligator clips from amazon (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CWRCO6M/ref=sr_ph_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1484095804&sr=sr-1&keywords=alligator+clips)

while waiting for my other supplies to arrive i realize i didn't have any styofoam laying around to use as a base given that most stuff is packed using inflated air bags now. while i was watching some airbrush guide on youtube it gave me idea

If you plan on doing a lot of kits in the future, I'd just invest in some Gundam Markers. They're $10 for a set of black, gray and brown. Or if you just want black and gray, they're only $7.50.

Is it these markers? That looks so awesome!

http://www.amazon.com/GSI-Creos-Gundam-Metallic-Marker/dp/B00KBRFOIU/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1409095865&sr=8-9&keywords=gundam+marker

I'm not home at the moment to check up close but the gold I used came from this set
https://www.amazon.com/GSI-Creos-Gundam-Metallic-Marker/dp/B00KBRFOIU/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1494274839&sr=8-4&keywords=gundam+marker

Get the 5 pack of metallic gundam markers and go to town on the frame. Maybe think about getting the purple one too.

https://www.amazon.com/GSI-Creos-Gundam-Metallic-Marker/dp/B00KBRFOIU/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1549636939&sr=8-6&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=gundam+marker&dpPl=1&dpID=51CMzZ7y7VL&ref=plSrch

https://www.amazon.com/Bandai-GM19-Gundam-Marker-Metallic/dp/B006BNIJJO/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1549637009&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=gundam+marker+violet&dpPl=1&dpID=41yar4LgyQL&ref=plSrch

[Allow us to introduce ourselves.] (https://www.amazon.com/GSI-Creos-Gundam-Metallic-Marker/dp/B00KBRFOIU?keywords=gundam+markers&qid=1540704503&sr=8-2&ref=sr_1_2)

Are you talking about this?

Yup, it's called a quick disconnect https://www.amazon.com/Iwata-Medea-I-160-3-Disconnect/dp/B001P5S5CO/ref=sr_1_27?ie=UTF8&qid=1481391638&sr=8-27&keywords=airbrush+quick+disconnect+iwata

So far I have found this online:
https://www.amazon.com/Hobby-Starter-Mega-Brush-Set/dp/B00HC8H4EI/ref=sr_1_4?s=toys-and-games&srs=7513501011&ie=UTF8&qid=1482729498&sr=1-4

If so, I can get these now in the process now and get Tamiya Plastic Cement 20ml. Just need to get clippers next, I don't think there is much a difference along with a hobby knife to shave down plastic layout.

Correct!

Bluecell 50 pcs Alligator Clip Stick for Airbrush Hobby Model Parts by Generic
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CWRCO6M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_GgJ5aIplWSoA2

I used gundam panel lining markers. Brown for the reds and gray for everything else. I ran over all my lines with some alcohol on a qtip to makes them less heavy.

These are the two sets that I currently own. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0009AFN4Y/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1473087773&sr=8-5&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=gundam+marker, https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00KBRFOIU/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1473087773&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=gundam+marker

small - http://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B0026IBC3I/ref=dp_olp_new?ie=UTF8&condition=new&qid=1371298889&sr=8-6

medium - http://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B0026IBC3S/ref=dp_olp_new?ie=UTF8&condition=new&qid=1371298889&sr=8-7

bulk (not japanese brand) - http://www.sears.com/stanley-872-pc-dbl-swab-cotton-tip-50/p-SPM7528968110?prdNo=4&blockNo=4&blockType=G4&PDP_REDIRECT=false&s_tnt=41486:3:0

Nope just lining markers. This is the set I used, I used the black the most since its mostly a red suit.

​

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HY93GHY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Just a forwarning they are a bit louder than the air compressors that are specifically built for airbrushes but I just keep mine in a different room with a long hose. You will also need a coupler along with the hose. Here's the links to AZ where I got my hose/coupler: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BQO8W4 and https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001P5S5CO

Here's the link. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00HY93GHY/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1526919703&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=gundam+marker&dpPl=1&dpID=41KeV7gp0LL&ref=plSrch

I have an Iwata Revolution CR, that same compressor just a different name, and a quick connect from TCP Global from one of their airbrushes (which I would not recommend by the way).

Not sure if it's available on amazon UK but here is a quick disconnect it has a 1/8 inch connector which is the same as that compressor.

Though I'm not sure by what they mean with an adapter plug. Power plug maybe since UK is on 240V?

Edit: Words

I'd get the Creos Gundam Metallic Set, so you can do verniers, lenses, and other details. You can also go the Aurora Seal route, but it can be a little trickier (but more awesome...)

Hey guys! Just found this sub, but I've been wanting to get into this hobby for a while. Planning on going with this one to get my feet wet.

Before I buy it, I'm also planning on getting these markers and these wash's (both from the wiki). Can someone show me to a video tutorial that explains exactly how to use them please? I've got no idea what the wash's are for...

I might also pick up this scriber to try and do some battle damage, but I can't find any tutorials on that? I'd also need some paint...

Is there anything else that I'm missing? I've already got decent angle cutters and an Xacto knife.

Thanks!

U. Just found the tutorials link that covers lining, but I could still use some info on adding battle damage!