Reddit mentions: The best milling tools

Get yourself a good build surface if you don't already have one. BuildTak works pretty well but there are plenty of options now. Don't mess with things like hairspray or plastic slurry, they are messy and a waste of time. Just google '3d printer build surface'. You can also just stick with Kapton tape on the 2x, that works fine too but It's not as durable, you'll be replacing it much more often and it really depends if you want to print in ABS or PLA.

I own a Replicator 2 and one of the 2X clones from Monoprice and have used a Flashforge creator, all are basically the same printer. As long as you have the upgraded extruder which most of them came with after the first Makerbot Rep 2 year and a good build surface, you don't likely "need" anything else.

If you do plan on doing a lot of printing though, get yourself a nice set of build removal tools. I use a cheap square headed exacto knife, the more flexible the better but it takes a little bit of practice to not cut your build plate that way. The other options are small spatula with very thin, sharp front edge. I have a kit like this one https://www.amazon.com/Synkia-Print-Removal-Enhanced-Version/dp/B01IMWL1HS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1480291918&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=3d+print+removal+tool&psc=1 that works ok as well.

Also you might want to pick up some small end mills/PCB cutting bits to use for cleaning the nozzle. Something like this https://www.amazon.com/3-175mm-Carbide-Engraving-CNC-Machinery/dp/B00SMDOUPS/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1480291965&sr=8-6&keywords=pcb+mill Make sure they are smaller than the diameter of your nozzle before you buy them.

Take your time, get to know the machine, don't go nuts trying to upgrade it until you find out where your pain is. That generation of printer can be hit or miss, either its the best darn thing you've ever owned or... you have a lot of pain. Newer versions of that design should work great out of the box but if it's a machine from the first release year without any upgrades it will have problems.

Good Luck.

Did it all with a hacksaw, a file, cordless drill and sandpaper. Before I put the grip on it weighed about 14 ounces (receiver, barrel and full mag weigh about 4 lbs). Spent about $16 on material. Need some sort of pad for the buttplate.

edit: more pics: 1, 2

edit:

Here's the process. I should mention that the receiver is a 10/22. Here's the basic drawing. It is to scale but I don't know what scale. If someone knows where to host a pdf without it being smushed into a png let me know. The square part is 6061-T6 rectangular tube, 24", the cylinder is 6061-T6 round tube, random length (discount codes)and the grip is a standard AR-15 grip. I had an extra but they're pretty cheap. The inside dimension of 1.5" rectangle tube is 1.25", the exact outside dimension of the receiver. Basically you just want to remove just enough material from the rectangle tube so that it fits snugly into the cylinder. When you're satisfied with the fit drill through both pieces while they are fitted together so that all of the holes align. Use a short machine screw on each side to fasten.

Next remove enough material so that the receiver fits into the rectangular piece. Note that all cuts made along red lines are at 5.5° angle from the edge of the stock material. Also note that if you have tech sights you'll have to remove the front tower to fit a 1.75" cylinder over the end of the barrel. When you're satisfied with that fit drill a hole for the takedown screw.

Now start removing material for weight reduction. Be sure to leave connections between the side walls for strength. For cutting arcs it helps to have a jigsaw blade. If you use a jigsaw you have to run it at a very low speed because the teeth gum up with softened aluminum. In hindsight I wish I had left more material in this area. The butt end should look kind of like a tuning fork. You'll just clamp the prongs together, drill and apply fasteners.

The grip requires cutting to fit snugly and it helps to have a tap and die set so that the stock will receive a screw in the same way it does on an AR.

In the process of building it I found out that they make 1/4" shank milling ends that will fit into most any router. You'll need some way to cool your workpiece though. If anyone has experience with this method let me know how well it works.

This should do nicely: https://www.amazon.com/2L-inc-Carbide-Uncoated-E2-250x2-0-125-5/dp/B01J2KKGDY/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1527553815&sr=8-2&keywords=1%2F8+dia+1%2F4+shank+2+flute+endmill

As far as what works in aluminum: 2 flutes, coated HSS or carbide, but you cant really make use of the cutting ability of carbide without the machine rigidity to take a super heavy depth of cut. And I'd get in touch with your local Kennametal or other cutting tool distributor, they can probably get you some free samples. Oh and safety glasses, all the safety glasses. Lexan machine guards if you can.

Best of luck!

>Can someone with a basic understanding of the tools and materials finish an 80% without too many issues?

Yes. It will take several hours to get it perfect, though. If you have a milling machine, then you are golden, if you are using a drill press, it may help to have two people - one to raise/lower the bit, another to move the lower around. On that note - I recommend that you not go the full 1.25" deep from the get-go. Go like 1.2" deep initially to ensure that you don't poke through the bottom.

Purchase this jig (~$90):

http://www.tacticalmachining.com/80-jigs/80-ar15-jigs.html

Purchase this 80% lower (~$39 - consider waiting until they do their 3 for $29 each sale):

http://www.tacticalmachining.com/80-products/80-ar15-lower-receivers.html

Heck, consider getting their Confederate Battle Flag one. anyways...

You said that you have all the tools - make sure you have a 3/8" and 5/16" end mill, if not, here are some that I have used successfully:

This 3/8" end mill ($29.00):

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007BTPBSO

This 5/16" end mill ($19.99):

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007BTPB8Y

Some people have pointed out that 3 flutes are better than 4 for this particular application - that may be true, but either should work fine.

Get whatever drill press you want or borrow a buddy's. If you have access to a milling machine use that instead. Set the speed as close as you can to 1720rpm. Use whatever you have available to clamp it in place. Take your time milling and leave a little bit excess so that you don't destroy your jig and have room to make "fine" cuts at the end.

You will need a few drill bits for the safety selector, and trigger and hammer pins. Try to use new ones, and lightly "bounce" the drill bit while you are making the hole so that the bit doesn't corkscrew and drill an off-center hole.

Get a few teensy set screws and a really small tap (I forget the size right now) so that the rear detent normally held in place by the stock can be held in place by a set screw instead. Make sure that you use some sort of lubricant (CLP works great) and back the tap off a tad after every half turn or so. You will have to cut ~1/8" of the spring that goes there.

Don't forget to have fun.

Ok, I looked for about an hour and I honestly could not find a video. Here's the best I can do to give you instructions.

(I'll try to skim over the obvious)

First, you're using this edge finder or similar

Offset the edge in the y-direction such that it is towards the part. Bring it in to the part until it touches and keep moving at a lower rate (about .01 should be efficient) until the cylinder looks all but solid. Now moving at about 0.001, keep moving while rubbing your thumb up and down the side inline with the y-axis until you no longer feel a lip. Mark the position and then continue in the same direction by 0.001 (or smaller) until you feel a lip again. At the point that you feel a lip again, you are about .0985 (+- .0005) off from the edge of the part assuming you did this right.

Do the exact same thing on the x-axis.

Let me know how this works out for you. It should be the next best thing to buying a dial edge finder for like $470+

Depends on the climate. I take this one ordered from Amazon (£26.99) which is rated comfort at 8 degrees, limits at 3 degrees and extremes of -11.

It’s also a good size and lightweight - it fits in with all my camping stuff in an Oxford 30L drybag.

I’m 6ft and fit in it, wouldn’t be good if you’re much taller though.

Could you clarify this?
>Don't cut more than 2x the tool diameter deep
>Start at 0.050 in aluminum

What are you trying to say here? Like, 2x the tool diameter of a 1/4" bit is 0.5"...
Are you suggesting that I should do like 0.2x? That would give a pass depth of 0.05"
Finally, I'm not planning to do too much with metal, so would this and [this] (https://www.amazon.com/Kodiak-Cutting-Tools-KCT166406-Diameter/dp/B0070YYOI8/ref=pd_bxgy_328_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=Y4FFGXENFZ3C128D9K9G) be sufficient alternatives to the set that you mentioned?

Hi, I ended up going with the Lindens version

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Lindens-Lavender-Essential-Capsules-Manufacturer/dp/B06XPLTLLN/ref=pd_nav_hcs_bia_t_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=5TGKZHNFDWGT95XYT5N8

as it says Lavender Angustifolia and the reviews were good. I would say the effects were subtle but better than l-theanine for me. I did double the dose a couple of times too.

I get the impression that they're all pretty similar so I just bought the cheapest ones I could find. I think it is these ones:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Bear-Fit-weight-lifting-support/dp/B01GWIEWXO/ref=mp_s_a_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1551087981&sr=8-9&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=bear+wrist+wraps&dpPl=1&dpID=51zP%2BZocj%2BL&ref=plSrch

Your body and brain are going through heaps of changes - take all the help you can get and more - make it as easy on yourself as possible. Especially if you feel that familiar slump. See your doctor. Ask for counselling. Just know that how you feel right now isn't forever.

Can wholeheartedly recommend SAD lamps too ( https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07XGQLFD7/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_rsmWDb9GKP4VH ).
They're small, about the size of a Kindle and as sceptical as I was, they definitely work some kind of magic on me. Helped me get out of bed for a start.

Can you bore it halfway from both sides?

You could probably get away with your idea, I don't know if its the best approach though. Do you have any Endmill holders you could run it in?

Morse Heavy Duty Large Plastic Wall Chart - Decimal Equivalents, Recommended Drill Sizes for Taps, and Useful Formulas https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07J57XZXS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_.X7lDbQFQ23DV

Just get some 4 flute end mills (best you can afford, AlTin coating helps aluminum not stick) and run it on the manual machine unless your doing complex geometry. Don't take to much width of cut tell you know how it will cut and no more than 2x the tool diameter deep. Start at .050 in aluminum. As for rpm the best bs way is to start out slow and spin it tell the flutes blend together. This is a ok set I got in school they cut steel and aluminum just fine. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00D5TQ8GS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_arI.zbPH7VNV9

You say an endmill is out of the question and then ask if you can buy a flat bottomed endmill. Yes, they do make those.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00075FWVU/ref=biss_dp_t_asn

I use that exact set, a pin vise, and the magnets /u/PostEmUp linked when building gaming minis. The only potential issue is that standard drill bits are pointed, and need to drill more out than is always desired. If you're feeling flush, pick up one of these end mill bits, drill your starter hole only until your hole has 'sides' (the hole has the cone at the bottom, with short vertical walls), and finish with the end mill so the magnet sits flush. If the piece is too thin for that you may get away with using a magnet on one side and a pin head on the other.

for reference, i'm using something like this: https://www.amazon.com/JERRAY-Carving-Tapered-tungsten-Carbide/dp/B015C6CHUC

Forstner bits seems to be for wood. I'd want to use tooling meant to be used with metal such as an end mill.

From a quick search:

https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-Cutting-Diameter-Straight-Milling/dp/B01AXUU5EW/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1506308742&sr=8-7&keywords=28mm+end+mill

https://www.amazon.com/Kodiak-Cutting-Tools-KCT136442-Diameter/dp/B007BTPAJE/ref=redir_mobile_desktop?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_dt_b_pd_title is the bit

Using .479 inch birch plywood

Starting using .62 doc at 35 ipm
*.062 sorry