Absolutely! I'm gonna leave it here so anyone scrolling by can see it, but I'll also DM you and the other person who asked for it so you don't have to check back in the thread.

NEEWER 2-Pack 160 LED CN-160 Dimmable Ultra High Power Panel Digital Camera / Camcorder Video Light, LED Light for Canon, Nikon, Pentax, Panasonic,SONY, Samsung and Olympus Digital SLR Cameras https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07438JXM7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_cIS2Ab7JHAYCT

(Despite some reviews claiming the battery life is poor or the output is low, I've had nothing but great experiences with these panels. With the batteries I use, I can do a surprising amount of shooting before the batteries die out. Not only that, I only have two batteries. So the fact that it is often enough for what I do is astonishing. Also, the output is just fine. In fact, bright enough at max output that it hurts your eyes without a softbox. With the softbox it is perfectly bright for most occasions. If you need brighter, look into the Neewer CN-216 or CN-304. Just be ready to warn people about their brightness.)

Neewer 5.9x6.7 inches/15x17 centimeters Camera Collapsible Diffuser Mini Softbox for CN-160, CN-126 and CN-216 LED Light https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00OXCGA28/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_CQS2AbBYSF5KE

(It has gone up a bit in price since I bought the two that I own, but it still offers excellent performance for the price. These are specifically made for the CN-160 panels. They diffuse light excellently, but at a minor cost. They are a bit of a pain in the ass to place onto the panel. At that price, though, you can't complain too much. You should be careful with them, as some have said that they don't take kindly to being handled roughly. My advise: take your time and do it carefully.)

Neewer 2 Pieces 2600mAh Li-ion Replacement Battery with Charger for Sony NPF550/570/530, Fit for Sony HandyCams, Neewer CN-160 CN-216 LED Light, Neewer 759 74K 760 Feelworld 759 74K 760 Field Monitor https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XDC47YM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_gVS2Ab3RDJ319

(Outside of another tiny price increase, there's not much to say about these. They do the job incredibly well for what I put them through. However, NP F550 type batteries aren't meant to last incredibly long shoots. If you do long shoots, invest in a few more batteries and consoder using the larger capacity NP F750 type batteries.)

Fovitec StudioPRO - 2x 7'6" Classic Light Stand Kit - [Classic][For Photo and Video][Includes Carrying Bag] https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HNZJLG4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_j0S2AbBBPVA2J

(These light stands have served me well. But, as with all cheaper gear, they won't withstand care that is too rough. They've handled plenty with me, but I recommend you try to take care of them. Other than that, they're just light stands.)

Bonus:

Neewer 12 x 12-Inches Pack of 8 Transparent Color Correction Lighting Gel Filter in 8 Different Colors https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CCIKB5Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_f3S2Ab6ZCYTAD

(Some cheap color gels. Get the job done.)

Of course I must include: This is all cheaper starter gear. It is not meant to replace the more expensive light kits that are much more durable, do much more and produce much better results. But restriction breeds creativity. And a passionate, new content creator with a creative eye will make the best of what they have. If you are a starting filmmaker, videographer or photographer, by all means, use this setup. Once you're ready to move onto better, more costly equipment, though, don't hesitate.

Ok, so I am a casual COD competitive fan, but I wanted to give my 2 cents about this issue. As much as it sucks to have one team overshadow the rest of the players, and have them not get the same promotion as a top streamer like Scump, there are soooo many things that a lot these players can do to help their cause instead of complaining about not getting a retweet from CWL or sponsors or whomever.

​

-You want more natural viewers? Put up a camera like 99% of all successful streamers. Also, light the fucking room. Put a lamp near your face, turn on the overhead lights in your bedroom, and stop having 90% of the camera shot be your messy bed and your ceiling. If you think the lamp light looks weird, here are $10 pieces of plastic that can change the lighting of basically anything when you clip them to the light. If you think your room looks weird, turn your desk around and have the camera face the wall. Put up your teams t-shirt on the wall, or a poster, or anything that looks good and it is instantly 100x better.

​

-Another note on production value, if you are streaming without an overlay....why even bother. It is the most basic thing that you can add to your stream to instantly improve the quality. If you don't have a reputable graphics go-to guy, pay $50-$100 to some cod fan on the internet and they can make you one. If you're broke, spend one of your off days and learn the basics of Photoshop and do it yourself.

​

-Also the interaction with the chat is another important aspect of the success of guys like Scump and others. Aside from just talking with them, he's doing giveaways every X number of subscribers. Obviously not every player can give away pricier things like Scump, but shit get some t-shirts made and give those out signed or something. At a certain point its simple math. If you are making $250 off 100 subscribers, spend $25 of that on a giveaway. These young COD fans don't care, they just want a prize from one of their favorite players.

​

-If you're boring, then that's the only thing that isn't straight forward, and I don't think anyone can help you there. But guys like Aches and Clayster who have super polarizing and entertaining personalities don't have any excuse on that front.

​

If these pro players want to see serious results and success on Twitch that is even a tenth of what a guy like Scump can get, then they have to start taking it seriously as a business. Because the time to make money streaming is now, and in about 2 years there will be some young kid who is going to take your place on your roster and he's going to be fucking fluent in Twitch, because he spent half his childhood watching streams.

​

Stop looking outward at the lack of your success, and start fixing your own damn shit.

​

EDIT:

ALSO, as long as I am ranting, why don't some of these orgs make a team stream???? If your whole team is scrimming or in a 2k, and they are all streaming their POV, get some nerd on the internet to splice it all together live with an overlay and have them switch back and forth COD caster style. Obviously it wont be as good as a professional crew like CWL has, but jesus a lot of people have the computing power already that can do it. I think this is something that even huge teams like Optic should be taking advantage of, especially considering all the resources they have.


MULTI-TWITCH IS LITERALLY FREE. Hustle together some sort of set-up that looks half decent, and if you're feeling real froggy, throw in someone from the community to do commentary.

As the other commenters mentioned, it should really depend on the situation and you should be making these kinds of decisions on a case-by-case basis. 4 speedlights in the corners could potentially work, but it would depend on the room. Additionally, you want to think about the type of light you are creating - do you want to point everything at the ceiling and have light everywhere, or do you want to have a kicker or two to shoot into to create some depth to the images?

If you only have one speedlight, on-camera bounce can provide decent results. However, if you're going to add additional off-camera units, my advice would be to invest in flashes with triggers/tranceivers built into them, such as the Yongnuo YN-560 IV line. They're incredibly cheap, reliable, and work perfectly for this sort of application. By doing this, you'll be able to trigger the flashes remotely (and reliably), with the additional benefit of being able to balance your output with the ambient light in the room, so as not to completely overwhelm it. Your batteries might have to be replaced once every 2-3 hours, depending on how bright your flash is set to. Buy some rechargeable batteries. You'll save hundreds.

My personal preference is to use a master flash on the top of my camera to light my subjects, and use it to control other off-camera radio slave units for additional fill or edge lighting (kickers) as the need arises. You get the flexibility of on-camera bounce with the look of multiple off-camera lights. It's the best of both worlds, I think.

Also, to your question about the light temperature, bare flash will show up as blue light in an image where the white balance is set to match most ambient indoor lighting, which is far warmer (usually tungsten). This will definitely create some weird-looking shots. You can easily get around this by gelling the flashes to the ambient light in the room, and I would definitely recommend it, no matter what lighting setup you go with. Just pick up a couple of gel kits off Amazon that include some CTO (orange) gels, and you'll be golden. In terms of bang for your buck, this will be the most effective way to improve the look of indoor images shot with speedlights.

Good luck with your shoot!

I wrote an article on intro DSLR kits on Amazon. I wouldn't bother unless you bundled them with your camera.

They're definitely crappy extra toys, but they may help you learn more about photography (by showing you how things make your image quality worse); but they also were kind of fun at the beginning and encouraged me to get out and shake the bugs off and dig into learning how to shoot good photos (and how extra toys don't really help). Everyone takes shitty photos at the start anyway, so you're not missing much; and it's not a ton of extra money over grabbing a body/kit lens/good SD card; but if you already have your camera kit, you can skip it for sure.

DO NOT USE THOSE TRIPODS!

Those are strong enough for point and shoot cameras at most. Especially with a telephoto lens, the tilt arm is likely to fail and it'll fall on sensitive optical mechanics. Those are in the $10 price range. Spend at the very least closer to $30 on a tripod, and a $100-ish tripod will be a safe, and useful tool to use with your precision imaging equipment.

tl;dr - Sure, it's a waste of a little money, but they can be kind of fun toys. Burn the tripod.

Stuff I'd suggest getting:

• 2-3 nice SD cards: Class 10, 32-64 GB each
  
  
• Another few cheaper (but still fast) SD cards: 4-8 GB
  
  
• Solid tripod. $30 or $100 is well worth the money
  
  
• Rocket blower. Avoid touching the lens, whenever possible and never touch the sensor. A lens cloth should be plenty. Avoid being tempted to use a wet cleaning kit on the lens or the sensor if possible
  
  
• I love my big, cheap camera bag. I have 3 lenses, and a speedlight and this is perfect for me. I wear it across my chest and carry it on my lower back where it's out of the way and easy to deal with 95% of the time.
  
  
• An Intervalometer that matches your camera
  
  
• Manual flash that can tilt & swivel
  
  
• Flash triggers are fun and work great with those cheap $10 tripods. Check Strobist.com for great tutorials and inspiration
  
  
• Flash gels can be fun creative tools too. Can you tell I'm getting into playing with off-camera speedlights?

Hey man, yeah make sure you get as many color temperatures as you possibly can. The tungstens will be useful to simulate warm indoor lighting, but they may also be useful for night shoots when you want to simulate street lamps called "sodium vapors". (alternatively, there are also "daylight" temperature street lights called mercury vapors you can simulate with white light)


GELS
Your temperatures will probably not match up with your environment so go out and buy some color gels. Here's a link to a pretty decent one: http://www.amazon.com/Lee-Quick-Location-Lighting-Pack/dp/B0010CHHE4/ref=pd_cp_p_0

If you go out and buy a gel pack, just make sure they come with something called "CTB" or "CTO". This stand for Color Temp Blue and Orange. These are used to "correct" the temperature of your sources. Example: if your houselights are 3200 kelvin, and you sources are 5200, you'd want to put a CTO on your light because 3200= Warm = Orange light and 5200= Hot= White light.

The pack I linked you isn't the best but it was generally cheap. It lacks quarter CTO's and CTB's. I know it seems like a lot of money but it's worth it to shell out for if you're taking things seriously.

HOW TO LIGHT A FACE
Lighting faces is important to learn; being a cinematographer is also being a photographer!

I found these images that may help you. First are some simple light positions (NOTE: these are positions Hollywood has used for decades and STILL use. Next time you watch a movie at the theater pay close attention to the way an actor's face is lit)

http://www.calvarywood.com/Supporting%20Files/Lighting%20Positions.jpg

Heres another link showing you different ways the face can be lit. I advise trying to accomplish all of the set-ups shown in the image (Pacific, Rembrandt, Split, and Edge). Google exactly how to achieve each set-up.

http://fc04.deviantart.net/fs9/i/2006/012/9/1/Six_Key_Lighting_Positions_by_GenoPunk.jpg

I'll stop there since I just dropped a shit ton of stuff on to you. Sorry if this seems like too much or if I'm pushing you in a certain direction. It's just information I wish I knew when I first started out. Good luck, hope you do well.

(BTW, buy a bunch of clothespins to hang your gels on your can lights. The industry official name for them are C47's :D)

The piece looks awesome, nice work. I'm impressed the more I read about your minimal set up. I think you're getting a lot of really great feedback here, so I'll try to mention some things others haven't.

Regarding your lighting, you might pick up some sheets of CTB. You can cut them up and tape them over practical lights. I've found you don't even need to correct to 5600, if you can get those practicals close to 4500 and set your white balance accordingly the outside usually doesn't look too blue. Half CTB is a good place to start, you can always double it up.

Really nitpicking here, but I think it looks nice to separate the interview subject from your background in terms of light levels. If you can bring up your subject or bring down your background, you'll let the viewer know what they should be looking at- the brightest part, your subject. Right now everything is the same look, bright.

/u/Randomae - I am a big fan of ring lights. I use a [$199 F&V R-300] (http://www.amazon.com/R-300-Light-L-Bracket-Video-Camera/dp/B011HTRI34/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&linkCode=ll1&tag=battleforthew-20) plus a [$25 milk diffusion filter] (http://www.amazon.com/Lighting-Diffusion-Filter-R-300-Light/dp/B00EA6PJH4/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&linkCode=ll1&tag=battleforthew-20), a [$40 rail mount] (http://www.amazon.com/Lighting-15mm-Rail-Mount-R-300/dp/B00GMYA9LI/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&linkCode=ll1&tag=battleforthew-20), plus battery or two and a charger - but after [this interview] (https://youtu.be/poMff0N1GHk) I did at NAB 2016, I now recommend the [$359.95 Fotodiox bi-color ring light] (http://www.amazon.com/Fotodiox-FlapJack-C-318RLS-Ultra-thin-Bi-color/dp/B01DZCIDIA/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&linkCode=ll1&tag=battleforthew-20) (with a built in soft bounce, a built-in rail mount, batteries, an AC adapter and a charger all included).

Here are the results you can get with a ring light:

• [Maria Flora - Summer | 2014 by Rafael Ribeiro] (https://vimeo.com/70211550)
  
  
• [BAR CRAWL by LUNARCY PICTURES] (https://vimeo.com/20943530)
  
  [Here] (https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipOdl9FcAZhxJb97FM54w7q-Zm5-8n_MPybwsg4x77eGfuXC8qGYT_W9uLFEJvwjpQ/photo/AF1QipMxFRxx8yaTu2fvNEmYfOGsZUdft6MSUkSY2LVr?key=blNPRXRiaktENlZQdndqeWVnSEZyenlDQ3pRX0ZR) is a picture of my setup.
  
  Hope this is helpful and best of luck with your wedding work!

Yeah I was thinking small aperture.

And I haven't done those effects before in post, so I will have to learn.

Should I buy more LED lights?

Is there a harbor freight case size you'd recommend?

Would gels like this be what you mean?

https://www.amazon.com/Neewer-30x30CM-Transparent-Correction-Flashlight/dp/B01CCIKB5Q/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1469039533&sr=8-2-fkmr0&keywords=neewer+led+gels

Ah so do you mean bounce the light off of a reflector (modifier) like you mentioned?

Thank you for the reply! So helpful! :)

I'm a former lighting tech, so my view is skewed, BUT:

I'd get yourself a Rosco Swatch Book (or another brand, but whatever), and test out the different diffusion "gels" they have. They're plastic film, and pretty temp tolerant you will not hurt them with these LEDs. make yourself a little holder frame, and see which you like best. Then, if the swatch isn't big enough, just order one sheet of that "color", which will be WAY more than you need.

disclaimer: I refer to these as "gels" "colors", etc. It will have Hundreds of colored gels, but also a lot of diffusion and other "effect" type films.

In theatrical use they are routinely placed in a gel-frame right in front of a focusing lens on a light burning 1000w halogen/xenon bulbs. They do tend to bleach out over time from the heat, but do not emit fumes or catch fire. Old-style fixtures focused the heat as well as the light, so the diffuse heat from the rear-heat-sink of an LED will not be a problem at all.

To make a "daylight" light source match standard incandescent, one would use a ["full CTO" orange gel] (https://www.amazon.com/Filters-Full-24x21-Filter-Sheet/dp/B00FR32300/). To get from 3000K to warmer, 1/2 or 1/4 CTO would probably do.

Lee filters has a calculator -- if you can find the color temperature of a lamp that you find pleasing, you can use their calculator to see what gel number will get you closest to your desired warmness from a 3000K source.

https://www.amazon.com/Neewer-Portable-Shooting-Speedlight-Speedlite/dp/B00UIT28FI

is one of my favorite ultra portable modifiers.

https://www.amazon.com/Opteka-OSG18-Universal-Honeycomb-External/dp/B004BFZHO4/ is great for moody focused light

https://www.amazon.com/Selens-Universal-Lighting-Filter-SE-CG20/dp/B00URG1C2C/ also will fit in a pocket and can give you some great changes to the speedlight.

Depends on the desk specs I would assume and if you want them to face outward towards the user. You’ll need something rigid to tack/attach the diffusion material and custom form it to the edge of the desk (if I’m understanding that correct, that is).

There are diffusion gels (they’re like thin plastic sheets - paper thin) and fabrics (typically used in photography) that you can cut and wrap around a frame. Order a Rosco Swatch Book to see what would work for you.

Or you can do indirect placement and put it under/behind the desk. Don’t necessarily need diffusion if you’re hitting the wall or something since you 1. Would be using the wall as a sort of diffusion and 2. Won’t be looking at it directly. Unless you can see hot spots/uneven light spread, you may not need anything.

Overall, I would recommend an aluminum rail LED strip housing with diffusion insert. I would recommend these for almost every home LED project, outside of anything drastic which would require much more work. This is the easiest and best looking solution.

There are lots of inexpensive ways to do this!

First, you need a way to create light behind the frame. The best way to do this is with LEDs. You don't have to worry about excess heat and because they use minimal power, they're ideal for use with batteries. A tech friendly way to do this is to use LED rope light - the plastic around the LEDs will diffuse some light already. You can also use flexible LED strip lights. There are lots of DIY YouTube tutorials on creating a light panel out of these, but they might be a bit intimidating. Grow light panels can be found on eBay for around $25.

In front of the lighting, use a product that will diffuse the light uniformly. There are lots of things that can be used for this - Rosco Gel Diffusion Sheets, Two-Sided Matte Drafting Paper, a Light Diffusing Compound, that privacy window film stuff, or even a translucent shower curtain will work.

Good luck!

As far as the diffusers go, you may get lucky at a local hardware store with some translucent hose or pipe or something plastic you can cut into sections. I took a look at the McMaster Carr catalog (which is a good place to go for basic materials), but they only have clear or opaque tubing.

You could also check to see if the color is really what you want in the room cheaply by purchasing a couple sheets of theatrical/cinema gel and covering your existing lighting fixture. You won't get the fluorescent tube look, but it would be some like $20 rather than the ~$100+ for the LEDs, driver, diffuser, etc. Something like Lee 201 would give a similar color wash to the room.

I would totally start out with what u/CoolHandIckx says. I would probably - if possible - work with 4 lamps though (one from each corner). Definitely strongly diffused light, use filler lights or diffusion filters on standard lamps. They come in many different ranges and prices, so you should be able to find something that fits your need and economies. ;)

Because you use the word "always", I'm guessing you have to do this quite often. Consider getting a decent quality DSLR (with tripod) - doesn't have to be expensive, you can even buy second hand, it just has to A. meet your needs for painting photographs, and B. have a filter screw in thread on the lens. Then get a polarizing filter to go with that, and don't skimp on that - it's important to get a good quality one.

I know it is an investment, but it might just be worth it, if you have to do it often, or if you need it (semi)profesionally. :)

(^edit:thpelling... )

I agree with u/greypowerOz, I'd definitely start looking into off-camera flashes! My favorite OFCs are actually super affordable, they're the Neewer TT560 and they're great starter flashes. You can also gel them really easily with a pack of these: https://www.amazon.com/Rosco-Lux-Small-Swatchbook/dp/B0002ER2YG. It's a sample cine gel pack; I got mine for free in film school but they're wicked cheap and the perfect size for flashes.

Speedlite holders: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JS3MINC

I own a couple of these and they are fantastic!

Gels: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00URG1C2C

No need to go with the expensive Rogue set. I love these by Selens.

Lighting gear bag:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LEE7J0U

This has been put through a bit of use and has held up great so far.


Lighting stands

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00L4YR0BS/

Speedlites

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B010XCEABO/

I pickup up a set of these a little while back:

Rosco Rosco Lux Small Swatchbook https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002ER2YG?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

It was like $5. I pulled all of the shades of orange to find what works best with my phone/lights.

As a bonus there's a bunch of reds that you can cover your flashlight with to do some night creeping!

Sorry, long day yesterday and the day before.

• JJC Grid
  
  
• Rogue gels that also fit the JJC grid
  
  
• Umbrella softbox
  
  The softbox can be found all over eBay. Just search for "umbrella softbox" and find whatever shape you like and what price you feel like paying. I paid like €20 each for mine several months ago but it seems they've gotten cheaper (or maybe mine are larger? I can't remember what size I bought, just looked for the largest umbrellas that I could find from a reputable seller). The one I linked to may be fine, but read the reviews yourself. I was more concerned with finding you a picture and a rough price on eBay. ;)

Thanks!

I used two of these and this set of colors.


Easy results for under $100. around $100.

EDIT: Oh yeah, and this for my off-camera triggering system.

one thing I recommend instead of paper towels is to get some gels that people use on film sets. lee filters has some gels on amazon. i like the 250 diffusion it softens the light nicely. so long as you aren't using a led panel.

"Gel" is indeed what you are looking for. (It's called gel because the filters used to be made from gelatin, but now it's a plasticy polyester film) What I would recommend is to find a theatrical supplies or lighting rental store by you and pick up a gel swatchbook so you can test the different colors on your actual lights. You may need to block the parts of the lights that the swatches don't cover, I'd suggest using aluminum foil and tape.

If you can't find a supplier near to you, you could order a swatchbook online: https://www.amazon.com/Rosco-Lux-Small-Swatchbook/dp/B0002ER2YG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1495168846&sr=8-1&keywords=gel+swatchbook

In addition to the warmth, you might want to use a Rosco #119 or #114 which is a frost that will also help to soften the light.

Thank You! the gels are just some super cheap ones I got off of amazon. I think it was these.

That can be mitigated, but not entirely removed, with diffusion sheets, which besides the color-blending benefits makes for a nicer beam on the wall, in my opinion.

If you’ve ever been a party to a heavy duty studio or location shoot, you’d be amazed at how Rube Goldberg’ed and jury-rigged things can be in order to nail the shot the way you want it. I’ve practically used everything from chewing gum to bent coat hangers to get scrims, flags, and filters where I want them, and lots of times the set-up is not pretty.

When I need to gel speedlights, I go with this and usually this. Or, you can pick up a 20x24” Rosco gel in the color of your choice for under $7.00, so get a couple of those, cut them up, and you’ll have tons, especially if you’re only gelling speedlights. Handling things this way makes for a lot less fumbling around than any kind of hardware-dedicated solution.

I can see using MagMods when you want the other features of that system, as well as using filters specifically designed for specific speedlights if that’s what you have, but for my purposes, the fastest most hassle-free way to go is with tape and gels.

Also, from my experience, you can fold, spindle, and mutilate a gel to your heart’s content and it still works as well as if it’s pristine.

Cost has nothing to do with my thoughts on this and I'd go with something like MagMods if I thought they made more sense than my thing.

The key here is that you need to diffuse the light for it to shine "evenly" from the back. Frosted or evenly sanded clear plastic between the lights and the surface might work, but I would try something like this. It is used in lighting (theatrical, cinematography, etc) to maintain soft focuses.

If you use diffusion paper, you might want to change some of the LED positioning to get more even lighting, since they won't shine directly through. An inverted "V" pattern might work well.

I guess the "S" means "spot" as that's kind of like a spotlight? 75° will act like a panel or area light, probably the easiest to work with as it just throws a bunch of light in one direction, probably what you're expecting since you're looking at these types of panels.

I'm a big fan of this starter kit for gels, https://www.amazon.com/Lee-Location-Lighting-Filter-Sheets/dp/B0010CHHE4 inexpensive, good quality, they're 10" x 12" so I think it should cover your panels? The kit comes with some diffusion as well, but you may want something bigger than just 10" x 12"

I suggest buying from Lee Filters, they have good stuff. This pack has just about everything you'd want, and then some.

Your halogen lights came with those metal cages, right? Throw the gels over the cages with some C47s, and you should be good.

Definitely gels as others have pointed out. To start out with, you can get a sample pack like this, and then tape the desired gel to your strobe.

It's a sheet of plastic color filter meant for theater lighting, but I imagine a layer on the inside of a lampshade would project a nice warm light.

Here's an example of what it does to skin tone.

Love your portrait! Did you just use a black backdrop for the background?

Also is this similar to what you got on Amazon?

Two of them:
First has one has multiple copies of commonly used ones (reddish, cyan, straw, CTO, CTB, etc) and they're a hair bigger (sized for speedlights)
http://www.amazon.com/Rosco-Strobist-Collection-1-5x3-25-Strobes/dp/B002SWIOOM/

This one is the original with one of everything they make (it was the original hack recommended on strobist).
http://www.amazon.com/Rosco-Lux-Small-Swatchbook/dp/B0002ER2YG/

I got some stick on velcro and use those to attach them to my speedlights.

Ohhhh I missed that it was your photo. But yeah, aiming the flash directly at your model and getting it closer will definitely harshen the shadows. Something good to play around with is flash gels like these or any other brand and diffusers Like this. I think a yellow/gold gel with the flash above (at say, a 45 degree angle maybe) and pointing directly at your model will get a similar look to #1 and adding that diffuser would, in my opinion, reduce the negative qualities of that type of light quite a bit. Definitely mess with sharpening as well.

If it were me, I like your picture much more than #2, but to each their own of course!

Good idea for people that don't want to solder!

You could take it a step further and use some photo gels since they are made to transmit light and not block much of the output.

You can buy deep-red transparencies (astronomy stores, lighting filters, anaglyph foil) that reduce the brightness and filter the light so it's not going to influence the dark adaption as much as a dimmed down screen, or apps in red-mode that are still emitting too much light :-)

Random links, ymmv

• http://www.siriusastroproducts.com/products---red-eyes-computeriphonedslr-light-shield.html
  
  
• https://www.amazon.com/Cowboystudio-Color-Correction-Gels-inches/dp/B0036BGJ2I (caution, random link, not sure how transparent or translucent these are)
  
  
• http://www.3d-foto-shop.de/pi17/index.htm

Buy this: https://www.amazon.com/Neewer-Dimmable-Professional-Photography-3200-5600K/dp/B01934RL0U?ref_=ast_slp_dp

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With 4 NP-F970 Batteries: https://www.amazon.com/Powerextra-Replacement-Compatible-DCR-VX2100-HVR-HD1000U/dp/B01N3TWBXI/ref=sr_1_3?crid=3AVTU7RI3GKN2&keywords=np+f970+battery&qid=1574805414&s=electronics&sprefix=np+f%2Celectronics%2C227&sr=1-3

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Some gels: (cut to size) https://www.amazon.com/Neewer-12-Inches-Transparent-Correction-Different/dp/B01CCIKB5Q/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=neewer+gels&qid=1574805440&s=electronics&sr=1-1

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and two light stands and you're in business.

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I've been using these for a long time and always do the trick.

Look up the film guys (thefilmguys.net) and see what that cinematography looks like. Only those lights and nothing else.

Nope just gelled the flash. I used something like this.

https://www.amazon.com/ExpoImaging-ROGUEGELS-U-Rogue-Photographic-Design/dp/B005KEL4NI

Here are a set of colored gels on amazon . You could go down the route of getting an RGB bulb, which can also be cheap, tho the light output on those bulbs are low. You need to have the light be brighter than your exposed shot to get the desired look.

Something like this should do the trick:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CCIKB5Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_A.w9BbB3EMHEE

You're gonna have to do more than just aiming it. Since these come with flood lenses, you'll probably need to tape something over the top 1/2 of each row of LEDs.

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6000K is going to make some serious glare, so you might want to install a color gel to tone down most of the violet/blue/purple.

Here is a sample pack for $2.99 on Amazon.

A cyan gel filter.

Ask the theater department is they have scraps from their lighting or get some from amazon

Not at all high precision but it's functional.

Post-Its? That will reduce color output way too much. You need gels for this.

Here I did a bit of color mod. Was quick and simple. All I needed was this photo filter. Also, have many other colors for future mods too!. Got the idea from this clown. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r0TbpmjHNTs&t=392s
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002ER2YG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

http://www.lee.com/shop/x-treme-comfort-khaki-pant

https://www.amazon.com/Twin-Peaks-Entire-Mystery-Reg/dp/B0186R6RV4/ref=tmm_blu_swatch_0?_encoding=UTF8&qid=1480364789&sr=8-3

http://holdfastgear.com/products/camera-swagg

https://www.amazon.com/ExpoImaging-ROGUEGELS-U-Rogue-Photographic-Design/dp/B005KEL4NI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1480365008&sr=8-1&keywords=rogue+flash+filters

https://www.amazon.com/Rogue-Photographic-Design-ROGUEGEL-CC-Correction/dp/B00A8EIPGY/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1480365008&sr=8-2&keywords=rogue+flash+filters

https://www.amazon.com/Pelican-1510-000-110-Carry-Pluck-Black/dp/B0002SKHIK/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1480365065&sr=8-2&keywords=pelican

Rosco Roscolux Tough White Diffusion, 20" x 24" Sheet of Light Diffusing Material https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000B75TFS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_HQYDAbM15R7JK

Lee CTO gel. You can unscrew the bezel and put a precisely cut circle of this right on the lens for a semi-permanent installation. It's Fenix, so it's probably glued. You can weaken the glue by holding the head of the light in boiling water. You may need strap wrenches if it's really stubborn.

Otherwise, can you solder? There are a great many LEDs with warmer color temperatures you could use in that flashlight, some of which will also produce tighter or wider beams than the one it came with, and some with a higher color rendering index.

If you shoot in RAW you can edit the white balance in post. If you are using flash and are in a tungsten room and want to match, take a look at gels to add to your flash to get it closer to the room light - ExpoImaging ROGUEGELS-U Rogue Photographic Design Rogue Gels Universal Lighting Filter Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005KEL4NI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_vZC1CbEDBXP1H

This kit also includes fx colors if you use off camera speed lights and want to color a scene differently or add accent colors for hair lights.

I use little squares of color gels for stage lights. they still let you see the ship behind the dial. I pain the bases to match the color of the gel so its easily transferable between lists.

something like this works great: https://www.amazon.com/Rosco-Lux-Small-Swatchbook/dp/B0002ER2YG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1466784182&sr=8-1&keywords=gel+swatch+book

cheap and so many colors

Gels - https://www.amazon.com/ExpoImaging-ROGUEGELS-U-Rogue-Photographic-Design/dp/B005KEL4NI - are just some plastic color filters for flashes

Flashes generally provide more light and/or have longer reach. I can't really imagine setting up a LED somewhere or even using one of the on-camera panels and photographing people. You would either have to be really close or have expensive lights. Check out strobist if you're curious about lighting

Color filters are mainly for BW film. They can also block out a lot of light (3-4 stops for a red #29). With digital cameras, you can change the luminance of a color channel while converting the image to black and white without losing light or dealing with filters.
I shoot a bit of BW film as well, and that's really the only use case.

Seriously, get yourself a Yongnuo. They're like, $40, and functionally similar to any branded speedlight. A demo pack of stage gels to slide over the strobe, maybe even a cheap as chips speedlight trigger, and you're set up for about 90% of speedlight work for less than a quarter of the price of an actual Nikon speedlight alone.

There's literally no reason to not go for it, and it opens up your shooting a lot.