Reddit mentions: The best mechanical pulleys

When I was 12 I bought a toolbox and started filling it with the things I used the most. Ten years later, here's what's in the toolbox I always take with me:

• Paperclips (small & large) - Never underestimate the utility of long, poky things. I keep some on my keychain, as well & use them often.
  
• Leatherman - This gets the most use out of any tool I own. I usually keep it in my backpack.
  
• Handheld blowtorch - Good for lighting candles, inspiring fear.
  
• 2-part, 5-minute epoxy
  
• Marine epoxy - Has the consistency of clay, but hardens even underwater. Can be used to fix cracked or leaking pipes in a pinch.
  
• Duct tape
  
• Hemostats (curved & straight) - A must if you ever work with small things. They can clamp down to hold two things together, freeing a hand up.
  
• Dinky drill - Get one of these. At first I thought it was lame, but having a small, cordless drill around for quickly disassembling things and drilling small holes saves a lot of time & effort.
  
• Zip ties (small, large) - These are light and very strong. They come in handy for random things and work like a charm.
  
• Hacksaw blades - Just keep a few in the toolbox. I use them primarily to make lockpicks out of. Wrap a length of cord around half of one and use it to saw through small pieces of metal in tight places.
  
• Lockpicks - Having a set of lockpicks and knowing how to use them can come in extremely handy. I keep a set in my car and another in my backpack. Read the MIT Guide to get started.
  
• Digital calipers - Nice for measuring small things to a high precision.
  
• Goof off - Good for getting random stains out & removing sticker residue.
  
• Masking tape - I use lots of this.
  
• Electrical tape - I don't use as much of this, but you should have some anyway.
  
• Wire strippers - You can strip wire with a knife, but these save time.
  
• Latex gloves - These are light, low-volume, and very useful for working with messy things like epoxy.
  
• Rubber mallet - This is one of the first things I bought, and though it doesn't get as much use as most of the other tools, I've never regretted buying it.
  
• Sharpie markers - You always need them, and you never have them. Keep some in your toolbox & away from your desk so they don't get ideas from your ballpoint pens & walk away.
  
• Needle & thread - Good for fixing popped buttons and such.
  
• Microfile set (also called Jeweler's files) - These come in extremely handy when working with small things.
  
• eXacto knives - Everyone should have a set of these.
  
• Carpenter's triangle - Very useful for woodworking. This can save you a lot of time if you learn all its uses.
  
• Hand drill - I just picked this up recently, but it's come in really handy for precision-drilling small holes or pilot holes.
  
• Channel locks - These will hold you off until you have the space & money to buy a full wrench and socket set.
  
  There's a few other things that don't fit in my tool box but I feel should be mentioned:
  
  
• A good, 1/2" CORDED drill - Don't skimp here. Cordless drills have rechargeable batteries that always wear out and need to be replaced. Use the dinky drill for those kinds of jobs. If you buy a nice corded drill & clean it occasionally, you may never have to buy another one again.
  
• Rope - I keep a good length of rope in my car & have used it many times.
  
• Steel coat hangers - These are terrible for hanging clothes, but they can be used to make all sorts of things.
  
• Dremel tool - You can do anything with a dremel tool and enough cutoff wheels.
  
• A hand saw - You can cut pieces of wood pretty precisely with a good hand saw & a little practice, and it's much more compact than the equivalent power tool.
  
• Towel - No explanation needed.
  
  Anyway, these are the things I've taken off to college with me, and they work for 98% of all the jobs I've needed to do over the past four years. Anyway, hope this helps, and good luck to you.
  
  Edit: The links are to things I have bought, not necessarily the best or cheapest example of each item.
  

Yes, electronics can cost a lot, and many of the telescope manufacturers make things, that when I look at them belong in the 1990s or 2000s, in terms of the way they work, and honestly could have been $400. It's basically the TI calcuator system: https://xkcd.com/768/

People have replaced those control systems, using technology (especially things like improved stepper control) which has come about for various reasons, like 3D printers, and simply faster microcontrollers.

Here's one: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tCBgmgc8qiA conversion (I suspect based on that it was using one of the faster controllers, but mine can do fine with an Arduino Mega + Ramps (the cheap controller))

• SVP $300 New
  
• RAMPS kit: (https://www.amazon.com/Eiechip-CNC-3D-Printer-Kit/dp/B07BKVPZ71) $27 (Not the best drivers, but this can be upgraded if you want later probably also want a PPS source, but it can be dealt without. As can the board.)
  
• Motors (Honestly cheaper, but at 0.9 degrees these are a bit better than the normal 1.8 degrees) https://www.amazon.com/0-9deg-Stepper-Bipolar-42x42x39mm-4-wires/dp/B00W98OYE4 2x$20
  
• Pulley for mount (60 tooth) https://www.amazon.com/Timing-Pulleys-Aluminum-Printer-Wrench/dp/B07QH1ZJ9L $8 (2x)
  
• Pulley for motor (16 tooth) https://www.amazon.com/Anet-Timing-Pulley-Aluminum-Printer/dp/B07D294B2T/ $8
  
• Belts https://www.amazon.com/132-2GT-6-Timing-Belt-Closed-Loop/dp/B014QI4PU2/ $12 (I think those are what are needed, I'd have to look again to make sure. I use 110s, but have 20 tooth 1:1, as I use geared steppers, with upsides and downsides.)
  
• Bracket (3D printed) or something made: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2278288
  
• M6 screws and 2 nuts (<$5 at local store)
  
• Onstep https://groups.io/g/onstep/wiki/home
  
  So At 408 + a bracket (Easy and simple 3D print or easy to DIY, look at the OnStep Showcase for a number of them.)
  
  Along with a 1/4-20 screw and a dovetail (Oh look: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2039785) , and you've got all of the functionality of a one of the Star Adventurers, along with the ability to mount pretty much any telescope up to 8" with a vixen dovetail.
  
  Plus, unlike from what I can tell of almost all commercial ones, they don't seem to compensate for misalignment when tracking. (Ie, they only move RA, not DEC, unless guiding.) Here are some examples of unguided long exposures with dual axis compensation. (Also, He doesn't usually process them, these are per other discussions straight off the camera) https://www.flickr.com/photos/11381732@N08/albums/72157683118306836
  
  Though that uses PEC (Periodic error correction, because worm gears often have high/low spots, so it can be corrected by basically guiding a few times and storing the corrections, which are then replayed). If you want that stored, which isn't included on what I mentioned above, but can be added for the cost of a magnet or two and a hall sensor ( https://www.amazon.com/WINGONEER-Effect-KY-003-Magnetic-Arduino/dp/B06XHG9CYN/ $8 and magnet https://www.amazon.com/Personalized-Multi-Use-Whiteboard-Magnetic-Refrigerators/dp/B075PMV2BC/ $8 ) Otherwise you'd have to retrain it each time.
  
  One thing is that the microcontroller and drivers aren't the most advanced, but you can upgrade them if you want. (STM32 about 3x as fast, but it's rarely needed, except for better alignment is about $60, but add two drivers, so call it a net of +$40 extra but that the kit adds wifi ($6 and a bit of wiring to the original) and a hand controller to it. the faster processors ESP32 and Teensy cost more but are something like 14x as fast allowing better alignment. Mind if you use Howard's Sky Planetarium, it won't matter too much, and it'll be able to process on the computer.)
  
  All new, and unless you have space taken up as your main concern the above setup is in pretty much all respects better than that suggested by dan.

It must be a pain in the but having to spin that nut on and off the bolt every time.

I know you didn't ask for my advice but I think that Drawbolt latches will be equally secure if not superior to your current latch setup, but much easier to open.

If you still want to have the ability to throw a padlock on the case you can always buy draw bolt latches with the eyelet for a pad lock.

Thank you for your help. And I hope you liked my idea in return.

I will likely end up doing the feet as well, but I also just did the dampers and had the heat shrunk on pulleys. It took only about an hour to do both the x and y axis motors.

Just tape up the motor real well. Several layers of protection that is. Keep every bit of metal dust and debris away from the bearings. There are magnetic fields in the motor and it will attract them. Use a Dremel with a cutoff wheel and cut the pulleys off. You might knick the shaft a bit, that's (somewhat) okay because you'll want to grind a small flat on the shaft for the grub screws on the new pulleys.

FYI new pulleys: UEETEK 5 PCS Aluminum 2GT GT2 Pulleys 20 Teeth Bore 5mm for 3D Printer Reprap Mendel Prusa https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XF721XX/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_YHmvCbKEKRRAM

These pulleys worked great. I did a cube test print before and after and noticed not enough of a change to say it wasnt a print issue (maybe 0.005") difference. MAYBE...

All in all I'm very happy with the result. I will likely check the new gears to make sure they're staying tight and don't round off, this week sometime.

Fairly good start!

Some advice:

• Tighten your belts and best replace them with better quality fibre reinforced ones like these - the ANET stock belts are stretching and not bending well leading to wobble. They cannot be properly tightened. While you're at it, replace the idlers with toothed idlers
  
• Print vibration dampeners at least for the Y-Axis - this helps a lot.
  
• Reinforce the front with these braces
  
• Reinforce the back with this brace (the last two modifications allow better tightening of the Y-belt
  
• Print a better belt mount for the Y-Axis (have you installed the heatbed mount with the middle bar above the side bars or below? This is wrong in the video. The middle bar should be below the side bars where the bed is mounted. This and the above belt mount align the Y-belt parallel which leads to better movement)
  
• If you haven't done it already install a MosFET for the heatbed (not for the hotend - there it is not necessary)! This is an essential modification. It removes the high current from the main board making the printer a lot safer.
  
• Change the heatbed connector. This connector is not strong enough and will lead to problems in the very near future. I'm using XT60 connectors that can withstand constant currents of 60A (6 times the rated current of the heatbed).
  
• Use the part cooling fan. I have set mine to reach full power at 3mm (set in Cura)

It's pretty easy to make your own "kit" if you have the BOM and access to Amazon or a site like it. I'm biased because I've always gotten good service from them. Some people have said that I'm biased because they pay me, but I really do try not to recommend places of business that I don't frequent myself.

Anyhow, here are the x upgrade and the y upgrade that I was looking at when I went searching.

Both use 608 bearings and a 10 pack should take care of it and give you several spares for further upgrades or replacements in the future. (want a spool coaster?)

Next you need the GT2 belt and 2 pulleys. Done.

The BOM doesn't say it, but you might need some m3 screws

Edit: Full disclosure: Amazon pays me something like 4% on items that aren't sold by third parties. If everything on this list qualifies and you buy it all I expect to make about a dollar.

I probably talked to the same team you did at Houston. I’ve never made it, but think I grasp the concept. Using a belt like this , one side is mounted to the back of the last stage of the slide, then loops around to the front of the next stage, then to the back of that stage, and so on (just like in a string lift). After the last stage, the belt loops around the pulley attached to the motor, and then Is once again looped around the slide except in the opposite direction. (If you’ve ever strung a lift with two strings, it’s the same concept). You don’t need a pulley on any of the points the belt loop back, just something to minimize the friction of it rubbing. Also you’d need to find pulley for the output that can interface with the FTC motor output shafts, since most of the ones I find on amazon are for stepper motor shafts. Servocity might have something.

I'll second the printrbot play.

I use a printrbot play, and I'm very happy with it. $400 entry level printer, recommend a y-axis upgrade and a zebra-plate from printinz. I also use hatchbox filament from amazon.

You could realistically increase the Y axis with only two longer 8mm rods, a printinz plate of equivalent length, and a GT2 belt.

Long detailed post about it here:
https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/comments/3xkxf7/thoughts_on_printrbot_play_and_printrbot_simple/cy6791u

My most recent print, replacement feet for my son's Combiner Wars Transformers: http://imgur.com/k0MYjH0

Favorite print: DL-44 blaster http://imgur.com/XMRSe2y

Various: http://imgur.com/Gwhv28z

That's not to say there aren't problems and heartaches with every 3D printer. It's still an emerging technology. There are tons of issues that can happen. I recommend shopping not only for a printer, but also a printing community.

What about something like this?

Although, with that price... maybe I will just go with a torque wrench. Do you recommend a torque wrench specific for auto applications like this?

Polycarbonate Solid V Wheel Kit (15 Pack) for 20mm Linear Rail, CNC, 3D Printers https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071RMVK8G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_yPi6CbCN0MTV0

You need 13 to do a whole ender. I ended up getting enough to redo both my machines, and ordered from a few different suppliers from the cheapest to the more expensive (but still less than openbuilds branded) and the quality was identical across the board. Proto has the best deal I’ve found for them. Best tip, roll all the bearings and feel for clicks and irregularities before you press them into the wheels cus it’s a pain to pull them back out.

For the Y-idler you can use any 6mm-wide flanged bearing with a 3mm bore. I use these. I'm not sure on the springs, but if it's anything like a Greg's Wade extruder it should be ~5x15mm, spring rate doesn't matter too much. The LCD is a RepRapDiscount Smart Controller, available from any one of a number of sources.

I had the issue with just the x-axis pulley. I found this on amazon as a replacement. after grinding off the pressed pulley, I used a flat file by hand to create a flat spot on the shaft for the grub screw to set. It has been working flawlessly, and quietly for almost a month this way.

I've used these off Amazon. They're the best deal I could find: 450lbs for $8. I think I might have gotten them for $5 about a year ago, so shop around.

The best solution I've seen for this is to add pulley's to both leadscrews: and use a belt to keep them in sync. If you then attach a single stepper to one of the leadscrews (using a 40 tooth pulley https://www.amazon.com/KINGPRINT-Timing-Pulley-Aluminum-Printer/dp/B077P8PQHK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1519229665&sr=8-1&keywords=gt2+40+tooth), it can drive both at the same time. The benefit of the 40 tooth pulley is it gives you a mechanical advantage that makes your Z higher torque and accuracy. You will need to modify your z steps per mm, but that's a one time adjustment. Here are some pics of how I've done this in the past: https://imgur.com/a/3fjuE

Are you happy with the pulley/rope? I've been putting it off for a while, too, and it's the next thing I want to add. I'm planning on using this pulley, rated for 650lbs, even though it expressly says to not use it for athletic equipment.

I just ordered this kit, I'll let you know how it goes.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0776KXY8G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_pTfvCbBXTW5CQ

Edit: Parts came in and everything is fantastic. Installed the dampers and it is amazingly quiet.

Don't damage the door and the frame; it'll come out of your deposit, and doors are expensive. Instead, go with something like this or this.

Lowes. Stanley National Hardware 3219BC 1-1/2" Zinc Plated Wall/Ceiling Mount Single Pulley https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000FPDGA6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_yVJBy6uOGS7UT the pulleys are pretty much those. Similar price too.

Hey yourself a friend and one of these.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00004Y68W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_yiqpDbHXW48RA

Not to detract from the point of this post, but I thought I'd share:

I bought this for 3 dollars: https://www.hobbypartz.com/exi-630.html

And these for 7: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07JJLZTLV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_CqQXCbQ5WXDKM

I would suggest manual operation. Attach timing pulleys to your threaded rods, wrap a timing belt around all four, and then just pull on the belt in either direction to raise/lower the table. The biggest trick here is that you have to splice the belt together on your own and you'd need to calculate the available throw vs screw pitch vs gear teeth to make sure your splice doesn't need to roll over the gears to get the height you need.

Anything similar to this should work: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07JJLZTLV

I cut the gear off mine with a Dremel and then added this to the rod coming out of the motor. [Link] ( https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0714QYPGV?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share)