#12 in Interconnects
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Reddit mentions of 560PCS Heat Shrink Tubing 2:1, Eventronic Electrical Wire Cable Wrap Assortment Electric Insulation Heat Shrink Tube Kit with Box(5 colors/12 Sizes)
Sentiment score: 2
Reddit mentions: 5
We found 5 Reddit mentions of 560PCS Heat Shrink Tubing 2:1, Eventronic Electrical Wire Cable Wrap Assortment Electric Insulation Heat Shrink Tube Kit with Box(5 colors/12 Sizes). Here are the top ones.
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Material:Made of Polyolefin, Shrinkage Ratio:2:1 (will shrink to 1/2 its supplied diameter)Suitable for electrical insulation, wire bundling, colour coding, mechanical protection, wire/cable joints and daily repairs etcComes with 560pcs heat shrink tube assorted in plastic box, 5 colors( Yellow, Blue, Black, Green, Red), 12 Specifications , satisfied for your different needLength: 45mm, Internal Diameter:1mm/1.5mm/2mm/2.5mm/3mm/3.5mm/4mm/5mm/6mm/7mm/10mm/13mm,Shrinking ratio: 2:1Package Included: 1 x 560PCS(12 sizes) 2:1 Heat Shrink Tubing
Specs:
Color | Black, Red, Blue, Yellow, Green |
Number of items | 1 |
Size | 560pcs |
Weight | 0.31085178942 Pounds |
OK, here is the short and dirty version. If you need more info, I can give it to you. I'll assume you know the bare essentials of coding, and soldering. This subreddit seems like they don't mind a bit of DIY and learning. There are 2 versions. One has a color changing blade, the other doesn't. The only downside to this DIY is that the LED in the blade could be brighter. I am currently experimenting with different lighting types to see what's best.
For a saber with color-changing ability, buy this wishlist:
https://www.adafruit.com/wishlists/491218
and also this:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ONOI9K2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
For a saber with no color changing ability, buy this wishlist:
https://www.adafruit.com/wishlists/492907
and also this:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ONOI9K2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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You will also need a soldering iron, some wires to put stuff together, and if you're fancy, some heat-shrink tubes. You'll also need a computer with internet access and a USB-microUSB cable that has data-transmission capabilities. Any moderately expensive USB cable usually has data functionality as well. Here is a list of stuff that would get you on your way:
Guide on how to get your microcontrollers up and running:
https://learn.adafruit.com/adafruit-feather-m0-express-designed-for-circuit-python-circuitpython/kattni-circuitpython
Easy-detach wires
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075K4HLTQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Heat-shrink
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B072PCQ2LW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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Now follow this guide to put it together:
https://learn.adafruit.com/lightsaber-featherwing/circuit-diagram
We're not using a neopixel, so don't worry about that part. Just stick with the LED wiring. This part will take experimentation, so take your time and test-test-test. This guide will help with additional wiring and coding questions:
https://learn.adafruit.com/adafruit-prop-maker-featherwing
Now use this code if you're doing a color changing blade. If you're not, you can keep the code as is, and just manually set the saber color you desire:
https://github.com/robert1233/lightsaber/blob/master/code.py
And you should be good to go! I'm still working on perfecting the code. I'm still learning as well, but this works. The guide I based this off is:
https://learn.adafruit.com/lightsaber-featherwing/software
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Features: micro-USB charging, color changing blade, sound and motion sensor for: startup, shut down, idle, swing, clash. Light up power button.
Cons: This has only been tested with a full-size ultrasabers blade. The LED could be brighter. I'm still working on that.
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Tips:
Sound files that I used can be found here. Use at your own discretion:
https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/index.php?topic=41379.0
The hardest part of this build is the soldering. If you are comfortable with that and you are willing to do some reading, this is very easy to do. I had pretty much no electronic background and was able to figure all this out in about a month.
Make sure you use the short headers for soldering the feather and wing together! This is very important or the microcontroller may not fit into your hilt! Test twice, solder once.
Don't veer off the wishlist. Everything I picked is low profile and allows for maximum space and flexibility. I went with as much plug and play as I could. The battery, speaker, and charger are all plug-ins. The LED, power button, and color-changing potentiometer require soldering.
If you are going the color changing route, you may have to drill a hole wherever you want the color-changer to be.
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I'll upload photo's whenever I can. Like I said, I'm working on finding a better lighting source, so right now everything is taken apart.
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I take no responsibility if you shock, burn, or stab yourself; or ruin your lightsaber or any electronic components. This is a guide on how I made the inside of my lightsaber and no more.
And you easily fix it with a piece of shrink tubing
Ended up getting the transformerto fit in the old box. Working fine at 16V 30va setting of the transformer (vs 24V). Used 3 pairs of wire total with this heat shrink tubing and these heat shrink solder wire connectors. Thanks all.
Those earbuds have no stress relief in the connection. It is not your fault they are breaking. You just need to heat shrink for some stress relief.
Heat Shrink Tubing, Eventronic Electrical Wire Cable Wrap Assortment Electric Insulation Heat Shrink Tube Kit with Box(5 colors/12 Sizes) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072PCQ2LW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_U6uRDb148T5HS
Method https://youtu.be/oHbgAiKBpf8
Do this to the points you feel are being tugged at. But do this for new earbuds, the old ones need to be fixed.
No I mean shrink wrap.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072PCQ2LW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_TaY7BbYWB0K24