#5,875 in Automotive
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Reddit mentions of AEM (30-4110) UEGO Air/Fuel Ratio Gauge
Sentiment score: 1
Reddit mentions: 4
We found 4 Reddit mentions of AEM (30-4110) UEGO Air/Fuel Ratio Gauge. Here are the top ones.
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- Interchangeable black and white faceplates included for customizing gauge appearance
- Bosch 4.9 LSU wideband sensor and weld-in bung included PN 30-4110
- No free air sensor calibration required ever. A 2-1/16 inch gauge housing ensures that it will fit in most gauge pods and can be remotely mounted virtually anywhere
- Interchangeable black and silver bezels included. 52mm (2-1/16”) gauge housing
- 0-5V analog output 10-20 AFR range only
Features:
Specs:
Color | Black |
Height | 2.1653543285 Inches |
Length | 2.1653543285 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Release date | August 2014 |
Size | 2-1/16th (52mm) |
Weight | 0.881849048 Pounds |
Width | 2.755905509 Inches |
AEM (30-4110) UEGO Air/Fuel Ratio Gauge https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00N3VGPYS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_a2CPCbXQA9308
Hold on there.
ANY changes you make to the pipes need matching changes at the carbs. The ones you've got on there are junk (factory CV carbs) and there's no guarantee they're tuned correctly to the pipes NOW. In fact, getting CV carbs to work right with pod filters like you've got is a tricky proposition. Who tuned those carbs? If it was you, and you're asking the questions you're asking now...um...odds are it's not in a great state as is.
If you're willing to swap carbs, any of the Mikuni VM34 kits will kick major ass over what you've got. Faster overall, faster throttle response, easier to tune to match pipes and genuinely likes pod filters like you have here. Don't go with a VM36 kit unless you're doing big motor mods (cam, big-bore kit, head porting).
Next issue. That pipe isn't the best in terms of cornering clearance. If you want max handling out of this beast you might want to consider cutting those pipes in front of the motor, extending them under the frame, merging them the same distance down as the merge point you have, and then bring the pipe out from under the bike not that far from the rear tire.
I wrote a bit about pipes (and carbs) here:
http://www.motorbikemondays.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/03/CafeRacerGuide-1.pdf
So with all that said, now I can answer your question!
I like SuperTrapp generic mufflers. Measure the diameter of whatever pipe you end up with where the muffler is going to go and order from Summit. This is one batch:
https://www.summitracing.com/search/brand/supertrapp/product-line/supertrapp-s-c-standard-mufflers?autoview=SKU
They also come in chrome and different lengths. Note the differences in inlet diameter.
SuperTrapp mufflers can be tuned as to the back-pressure by removing or adding disks. This also changes the sound. It also changes how the carb needs to be tuned to match the muffler, or if you get it close you can fine-tune the muffler to the carb instead of the more common method of only tuning the carb.
With me so far?
OK. One last thing. When I wrote that guide I didn't know about these:
https://www.amazon.com/AEM-30-4110-UEGO-Ratio-Gauge/dp/B00N3VGPYS
For about $200 (plus you need to weld a nut-thing on the pipe or muffler) you get total knowledge of what the fuel/air ratio REALLY is. You only need this gauge while tuning it (with an exception I'll mention in a sec). It's annoying to try and permanently mount because the cable it comes with from the sensor to the gauge is too damn long and you can't cut it (if you do the calibration will be fucked). But with this, you can absolutely fine-tune the carb's settings to the pipe and get the mixture dead-nuts accurate even if this is your first time tuning this shit :).
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Now I'll add one more oddity...and this is a setup I'm considering.
These crazy fuckers have a BUNCH of modifications available for Mikuni VM series carbs:
http://thunderproducts.com/
They've got dial-adjustable jetting. You can adjust jetting WHILE RIDING. No shit. You can also add more jets, like the Thunderjet for top-end power.
So. What does this mean?
For one, you can alter the settings for different altitudes, using the Thunder Products Intellajet and Thunderjet stuff to fine-tune the carbs and use the fuel/air gauge to know that your on-the-seat re-tuning is accurate.
That, in theory, would give you the most advanced carb (and pipe!) setup on the goddamn planet.
Air/Fuel gauge $170
http://www.amazon.com/AEM-30-4110-UEGO-Ratio-Gauge/dp/B00N3VGPYS
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12V Impact wrench $25
http://www.harborfreight.com/12-volt-1-2-half-inch-emergency-impact-wrench-92349.html
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Cylinder head temperature gauge, $39
http://www.amazon.com/Trail-Tech-Temperature-Meter-72-ET3/dp/B0031BIWX2
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Roller weight tuning kit $33 (there are different weight sizes, what scooter?)
http://www.amazon.com/Prima-Roller-Weight-Tuning-16x13/dp/B00LESCZHS
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Or a set of a range of carb jets. Again, need to know the scooter type.
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Scooter Dyno $12,000 hahaha
http://www.dynojet.com/products/dynamometers/dynomodelsd12/dynojet-dynamometer-sd12.aspx
I've never used most of these, so I can't review them. They look interesting to me though.
Hey, scrotch!
I only now remembered, "Wait, I was supposed to respond to that Redditr's comment!" I am 26 years old with the memory of a perpetually stoned grandpa'.
Onto the nitty-gritty:
IIRC, I purchased an AEM (30-4110) UEGO. It came with the Lambda Sensor Unit 4.9. All that was required was having a bung welded into the header and a way to mount the gauge.
For us carb'y owners, especially those with split FCRs, this makes tuning our carbs more exact than our butt-dyno, and less costly than hours on the dyno. It's a wide-band, so it gives accurate readings between 10:1 and 20:1.