Best advice is to keep it simple. Focus on brakes and tires first! Do some basic setup and then recognize while you are on track when you are at the limit of your basic setup, then go from there.

You already have SS brake lines, good! Fill them with good 600°F brake fluid (several were mentioned already). Do this every few events and be meticulous about doing it RIGHT and making sure there are NO LEAKS. Safety first! This and pads are your #1 safety item. Then an instructor, then good tires, helmet, seat belts, etc. Again, keep it simple.

Parts:

Use whatever rotors are on the car for now, and buy a set of these as backup whenever htey start to warp: Centric 120.40048CRY Cryostop Rotor
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B003K1H2V6

Brake Pads, order a set of Hawk HP+ pads. You will get advice all over the board on what is best and blah blah blah. These are great bang for your buck and you can street them as well.
Hawk Performance HB361N.622 HP Plus Brake Pad
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B000IEYNOM
Fronts are most important, do all 4 corners once you start to get comfortable with the car and/or go to a bigger track.

Think you're done with brakes? NOPE! Now let's talk heat. You're just starting to go on the track and want to be out for as long as possible to work on consistency and technique. If you're going to do any sizeable track with big braking zones you will want some way to keep the brakes cool. A lot of people poo-poo this step and then complain about how the stock brakes suck SO bad. I have had my s2k on CoTA, Road America, and BIR with zero brake fade with the setup I'm describing.
Option one: remove the dust shields, this will help reduce captivated heat
Option two: brake duct kit. DIY worked best for me:
-Lambert spindle mounts: http://www.lapponline.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=65_66_67&products_id=180
-Front Bumper inlets. WASP makes nice stuff but they SUCK to deal with and idk if they're even in business anymore. Several other options out there.
-Aircraftspruce.com has all the ducts and such you need:
Qty Ship B/O Item Unit Price Total Price
11 05-29910 SCAT-10 DUCTING 2 1/2" 7.500 82.50
6 QS200-40H BREEZE CLAMP 200-40H 1.880 11.28
1 01-00990 RESCUE TAPE 1" X 12' BLACK 9.350 9.35 (helps with rubbing)
3 05-02200 RUBBER "U" CHANNEL 1.350 4.05
50 11-04229 7" 50LB NATURAL CABLE TIES MS3367-1-9 0.040 2.00
50 11-13475 14" 120LB NATURAL CABLE TIES MS3367-3-9 0.150 7.50
50 11-04058 14" 50LB NATURAL CABLE TIES MS3367-2-9 0.090 4.50
Subtotal: USD 121.18


Ok great, now you have good brakes, you already said you have RS3 tires on there, buy a nice tire gauge and keep an eye on pressures & tire wear!
Joes Racing 32307
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00404WDUC

While you're at it, check the oil. Seriously, these things can (but don't necessarily) burn through a lot of oil depending on conditions and the track. Just keep an eye on it and plan for keeping an eye on it. Not a bad thing.


Get a good basic alignment on the car, max out the stock adjusters for camber front and rear, zero toe front and about .25" total toe in the rear, then you're good to go! If you are feeling DIY-ish pick up a Quick Trick alignment kit to bust this out quick and easy in your garage or at the track.


Once you get comfy with the car however you have it setup today suspension/wheel-wise, you can start to look at a few next-steps. Do all of these at the same time as its the combo that shines over any one part.
-lowering springs/coilovers (I did ohlins, so awesome)
-front swaybar (A simple eibach will do!)
-front bumpsteer correction kit/spacers
-17x8.5 or 17x9 square wheel setup with 255/40-17 tires. RS3's, Maxxis, VR1, are great lapping-day options. RE71R for quick/short/fast hot laps.

1 rule: HAVE FUN!

I have the smaller k40 and the first upgrade I did was printing an exhaust adapter and getting a new extraction fan since I didn't feel like potentially burning my house down with the included fan. I had to fix the wiring out of the box since the fan wiring is crap and would have definitely caught fire at some point after firing it up.
I went with a 440 cfm 6" fan from amazon. The adapter I printed for the back of the k40 was a 4" so I also got 24-6" adapters from amazon to connect it to the fan and then from the fan to the window. I used it on both sides since I had already bought a good length of 4" hose and didn't want to also buy 6" as well. I put weather stripping on all connections in the exhaust line so I have virtually no smell in my office when running it.

I got an air pump on Amazon and3D printed an adapter I got from Thingiverse for it to direct the airflow in line with the laser. I bought my tubing for the air assist at Home Depot.
I also added a drag chain to keep the hose out of the way. I bought mine on Amazon but you can print that and adapters yourself if you're up for it.

The next upgrade I did was to add the mA meter since I have a digital panel on mine. That gives a much more accurate read on the power when using the laser.
I then upgraded my control board to the Cohesion 3D Laserboard ($200)and started using Lightburn ($40) for the software. That software lets you do a LOT more with the machine and you can also add a camera to get a view of the print area in the software to help with laying out materials.

Because the new board has power management built-in I set the k40 to the max power I would want to use on a project and then control the power levels from the software. This also lets you do true grayscale images and 3D engravings.
Because I don't like to have the exhaust and air pump running all the time I also got some wifi smart plugs. Each plug has two outlets and each of those can be controlled individually. They can also be controlled by an echo so I have that setup as well. Since you can also group smart plugs in the Alexa app I have one set up for everything and when I'm done working on a project I can either tell my echo to shut off power to the group or hit the button in the app to shut it all off at once.

For water cooling I'm using a home depot bucket however I have hose couplers installed in the lid for the water lines so if I want to move things around I don't have to completely disconnect everything and pull the pump out of the water. I just pull the hoses off the top of the lid and the pump stays in the bucket. I have the plug for the pump also going through the lid with a rubber seal around it. Depending on how hot it gets in the workspace a water chiller might be recommended.

The latest item I bought is a lab jack which I'm going to use to make a manual adjustable bed. If you can make one yourself or buy one at an affordable price an automatic Z bed would be great if you want to work on larger materials. A manual adjusting bed is fine for me now though.
I still need to purchase a new bed for it and get rid of the crap that came with it. I might try to salvage it though by drilling holes in it and installing metal spikes to rais the material up off the surface.

On my list of to-dos is to get a better lens and upgrade the mirrors. I haven't had an issue with what I have now so it hasn't been a priority.

I hope this helps with your project.

I ran into this problem and fixed them myself. I have a 2004 Chevy Silverado with this issue. It's a known issue with the GM vehicles in a certain range. They sent a recall out for it but my mileage was too high to have it done for free. It was pretty simple with minimal soldering skills.

If your car is a GM car (which it looks like a GM dash), here are some links. I used these exact stepper motors and instructions similar to this and it took me approximately 30min to complete. It was much easier than I expected.

Good Luck!

Pyrometer

Low profile jack stands (flat feet, safe for tarmac)

Racing gloves

RaceQuip Helmet Support

A GoPro off-brand accessory kit To help mounting that GoPro to whatever you want to mount it to.

Some Mechanix gloves lots of options

Paint markers various colors.

F4 self-sealing silicone tape

Going Faster
Speed Secrets
High-Performance Handling for Street or Track

Another few things would be to find out what the driver uses for brake pads, brake fluid, rotors, oil filter, etc., as those can be pricey and nice gifts. (I use Hawk DTC-60 front, HP+ rear pads, Motul RBF-600 fluid)

Portable battery powered air pump for tires I have one very similar to this. It's cheap and great to use for adjusting pressures before sessions.

A decent tire pressure gauge This is the one I have and have used for several years and I have been very happy with it.

A subscription to Grassroots Motorsports

Torque wrench, +200 ft/lbs This is the one I have been using for a few years and it works well.

I've got lots of other ideas for tools and such; specific socket sets, impact gun & sockets, special bits for your car, magnet, flash lights/head lamp/stick light, channel locks, stubby sockets, various wrenches, extensions, breaker bar, bits, allen wrenches, vice grips, pry bars, adapters, pliers, cutters, etc that would be good to put on your list if you don't have them in your kit.

Happy holidays!

Ok so by the looks of it he's got the effects pedals covered, I would go for something else and let him get anther pedal on his own. These are my recommendations that will benefit his current setup.
This is a nice expensive version of this and this is a midway between the other two. These are power conditioners they will help his equipment operate more efficiently and quieter and will last decades(you can use them for home theatre use as well)
I would also recommend nice cables like these they are lifetime warranty. Here's another very useful maintenance kit that will last a very long time. If you pick the 110$ furman you can get all three.

I got the mini k40 (would not do that again). It works great, but I didn't know it at the time that I would be getting a weaker laser. I was about a week too late learning about tube sizes being the better way to know the true wattage.

I have done a series of upgrades and then re-dos. So hopefully you can learn a few things from all my tinkering.

Analog Milliamp Meter

I bought this meter. I followed this link for the install.

Exhaust

I initially went with an inline 3" bilge pump that had a corresponding 3d printed exhaust mount. It was ok, but in the end I just wasn't good enough when I started cutting more leather/wood.

So I went a little overboard, but I am glad I did. I went with this blower instead. I made my own 3D printed mount for it. I printed 2 adapters for the blower to fit 4" ducting and then routed it up and outside my garage.

I also removed the small internal duct thing prior to installing the new exhaust. it gives me a little more cutting room as well.


Air Assist

I went with the Light to Object head and bought a new lens to fit it.


Drag Chain

I bought a 10x10 drag chain off amazon. I had originally printed one, it was ok, but I recently switched up the mounting of the drag chain to run along the X gantry which gave me a little more room to cut.


Laser Aim Assist

I made a mash of 2 different thingverse designs to hold 2 red line lasers and where they intersect is my laser beam. It works well, I made it this way originally when I had an adjustable table. Honestly, now I should switch back to a single red dot, but I am too lazy. The two lines will sometimes move on me so I end up having to do a test fire every so often to ensure they are lined up properly.


Spring Loaded Adjustable Bed

I followed this guide


Hopefully this helps you out a bit.

Nice work, this is like a bigger, better version of my light with 1' Q strips and a mix of spectrum. I also oversized mine some, 150 watts total in a 2'x2', and have it so I can turn on and off each group. I'm using just regular switches for the groups and I have to adjust the pot manually to keep the power where I wanted it using one of these to measure. Did you go a more advanced route? I'm working on upgrading and controlling everything via an arduino and using relays to turn the light groups on/off and for autowatering and a digital potentiometer for the % power.

I finished one grow with my light at full power in flower, but ~40 watts are side lighting, 10 watts per corner. My light is only around 10"-12" from the tops, and the side lights are only a few inches away. I didn't see any big advantage to the side light, I'm not sure if I'm going to keep them, but I'm using them again this grow. Maybe I'll move 2 up top and keep 2 low and see what the different sides look like.

I'm curious to try to learn more about if this is wasted energy and if so, how to tell

I'm serious about the rear tire pressure. It's probably around 35-40lbs of pressure right now. Get a really good tire pressure gauge... because you need one anyway. I could build a nice house for what you have invested in that bike, so don't be cheap and get a good one. Hell, even if you don't change the tire pressure like I'm suggesting, you still need a good tire pressure gauge.

There's a ton of $10 gauges floating around, but I've never found two that read the same, so all of them can be counted on to be inaccurate. But there are good, relatively inexpensive gauges out there. Avoid the digital ones unless you into the >$200 product lines. Not necessary unless you work on a racing team and 1/10lb differences are going to be appropriate and necessary for track condition changes. But GOOD dial-gauges with flexible hoses can be had for about $40-50. Intercomp and Joe's Racing both make reliable, accurate gauges, and they're almost as good as the ones for professional racing teams. Make sure these are 60lb gauges, because you can use them on your car and truck, too. Buy a good one once and you'll never need to buy another. I know you understand this idea.

You probably don't have an inner tube in that rear tire so don't go below 20lbs ever, although I've limped my Road King home on a tire going flat that had about 15lbs in it (an 800lb bike is NOT the same as the 475lb bikes that Harley recommended 15lbs of pressure for). but 22-25lbs is more than enough for the tire to retain its bead on the rim under almost all conditions (except drag racing, unless you're rolling on the throttle instead of dumping the clutch) and hitting a hard curb straight on at 50+mph, and then you'e already got other problems. But running 22-25lbs may make the difference between enjoying every minute of your ride and having to buy a football mouth guard to keep from breaking teeth. OK, you probably don't need the mouth guard, but the difference between 35-40lbs and 22-25lbs will be night and day. Give it a try?

I made a Boombox out of a pair of coaxials I had laying around
pic

Amp

spectrum analyzer


6.5s

solar panel

buck converter

battery mount



I have a surplus of m12 tool batteries as well as some coaxials laying around I figured I’d make a portable speaker

With solar panels most output well over 18 volts. Which is fine for that amplifier but not for the battery. With a buck converter it takes it down to a more useable voltage for the lithium batteries.
If you wanted to run something like this on grid power you would need something like this I had planned on getting a 12 volt power supply like the one here later for home use but since with one 9AH lithium battery I have well over 12 hours of listening before the battery needs to be recharged/ swapped out.

Edit: also using this to monitor solar output

I don't think any of them actually come with it like that. I did the mod myself.

Here is the tach mount I used to hold my speedo in place. All it took was drilling an extra hole in the plate to mount it.

Then you get something like this
to mount the indicator lights on the bar clamp.

Quite simple but makes it look much better in my opinion!

Good luck!

If you own an air compressor, this thing is the tits: Link

It's a very accurate tire pressure gauge, but the best part: this one is built into a tire filler that you hook up to your air compressor, so you can see the pressure without swapping between your filler and your gauge. Also, it has a button under the gauge that lets you bleed air. Pretty handy. (especially if you're at the track a lot)

$60. Worth every penny. If you just need a good gauge but don't care about it being fused with a filler, just get their regular gauge. It's like $21. (I have one of those too and it's great)

So easy and so worth it. When you install an aux battery, change the power source for your van's inverter to it.

Isolator Relay: https://www.amazon.com/Stinger-SGP38-80-AMP-Battery-Isolator/dp/B001HC6UJ0

AGM Battery: https://www.amazon.com/Universal-UB121000-45978-100AH-Cycle-Battery/dp/B00S1RT58C or Something comparable

Voltage monitor (very helpful!): www.amazon.com/bayite-6-5-100V-Display-Multimeter-Voltmeter/dp/B013PKYILS/ref=pd_bxgy_23_3

100A fuse

2-4 gauge wire

terminal ends

A voltimeter is very helpful in finding a wire that runs > 12v while the car is running. Have one, buy one, borrow one, etc. This was really the only challenging part of the installation because you have to test multiple wires for voltage.

Once you're done installing it you'll be able to comment on these posts and tell people how wonderful and easy it is too!

This one:

https://www.amazon.com/Joes-Racing-32485-Quick-Inflator/dp/B00B9FJMAO/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1469851117&sr=8-6&keywords=joe%27s+racing+tire

It's a little pricey at ~$60, but it's the last one you'll ever need. If you're like me and you're used to the cheap "pen" types, this one will blow your mind. Having the controlled fill and blow-off inline on the unit is super nice too.

the main reason for a tire rotation is mostly due to the tread of the rear tires going out faster than the front ones (not by much) so rotate them to even out the tread wear on your tires.

On mine (3) I have found around 6-7K milage my tread wear is about 1/32 difference (7/32 front and 8/32 rear) this depends on driving habit, road conditions etc.

I always suggest a 2/32 in.+ In difference before rotating so you won't be either doing it yourself so much or taking the car in to have them do it every 6,250 miles.

One of these tread depth gauges are the cheapest and easiest way to measure your tires tread depth (minus the penny method), doesn't have to specifically be this one but it's an easy one to show.


I'd say at least have one on hand in the glove box and if you are ever curious if you need a tire rotation (outside of an up coming 2 year service visit where they can rotate for you with the maintenance plan) you won't pay it of pocket for (in my opinion) unnecessary tire rotation.

You're most welcome! I bought the following:

4x100W Panels

Panel Mounting

Solar Panel Connectors

Tool Crimper

Assembly Tool

Panel Connectors

Power Information

CTEK Charger

CTEK SmartPass

200ah AMG Battery

Fuse Block

300W Pure Sine Wave Inverter

LED Strip

Dometic 35 Fridge


I bought all these items with research into my solar needs and following the advice from here in the vandwelling subreddit and also information I gathered from Amazon. I am probably doing a bit of overkill on my solar setup but I thankfully have the money to do it and don't want to mess with adding anything later.

I will have to do research myself on how to combine the four panels into the battery but that will be a few weeks away so I haven't done much in that area. I do plan to buy 10GA wire from Lowes and use the crimping tool and connectors to form my own wiring harness so it will be clean looking. \

EDIT: Adding info.

Tires are the most important feature on the car for it's performance and safety. You should educate her on how to monitor, and set her tire pressure at regular intervals for her own safety and the safety of those around her. Get a nice tire pressure gauge with a large glow in the dark analog gauge to make reading simple and clear.


https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00404WDUC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Not digital, but this analog gauge has been great: Joes Racing 32307 (0-60) PSI Tire Pressure Gauge https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00404WDUC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_1mIBybTCYX6MQ

I've gifted it to several relatives. The large dial, half pound accuracy, and bleed off valve are great features.

https://www.amazon.com/Joes-Racing-32307-Pressure-Gauge/dp/B00404WDUC

I have one of these that I consistently use, which is the main thing. Get something that is of good quality, and use it almost exclusively if you can. I like the ease of something with a bleed-off valve, since ease of use will encourage you to check your tire pressure often.

I like your name, lol. I got this: https://www.amazon.com/bayite-6-5-100V-Display-Multimeter-Voltmeter/dp/B013PKYILS/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1480969369&sr=8-8&keywords=watt+meter

Problem SOLVED? :)

If the little "flags" still exist and are still welded onto the pins that exit the compressor, then get new heavy duty fast-on connectors for the wire and push the fast-on onto the flag.

If the flags are gone, get rescue terminals like this:

https://www.supplyhouse.com/Qwik-Products-QT2810-3-Terminal-Repair-Lugs-Bag-10-AWG-2-ft-Leads-w-Nut?gclid=Cj0KCQjwpavpBRDQARIsAPfTwixfDxNIXocFiCotNK0ZcfvFb-J5uviFr9kmSy7qe7TNVXjNGe6BRK8aAnBKEALw_wcB

or this:

https://www.amazon.com/Term-LOK-TLC310-Compressor-Terminal-Packard/dp/B004UW0GGC

Also, check Ebay for (possibly) better prices.

If you want to get going sooner, you can use tie wire to temporarily secure the electrical wire to the compressor terminal.

https://www.harborfreight.com/25-ft-mechanics-wire-97773.html

Sweet. That’s the one I have.

My Mods so far:

MRA Windscreen (Smoke)

IDEA Gear Position Indicator

Yoshimura R34

12V Socket

These are the big ones. Windscreen makes a big difference. Takes a lot of wind off the chest, plenty off the face. I can comment on the others if you like. I agree with t your comment on the suspension as well. Big potholes will bottom out the springs. No fun.

If you want to spend a bit more money, tire pyrometer. Something like this one that actually penetrates the rubber. The laser ones are useless for tires: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005JVFTTM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_wQD2Db3KQ5FAG

Also, biggest tote he can fit in his car/trunk with tires and other gear. Makes it nice and easy to have an autox pack to just toss in the car and go and easy to store stuff in at the events.

I think having an accurate gauge is important, I tend to trust the mechanical gauges a little more and I don't worry about dead batteries. I also try to buy American when possible :)
Joes Racing

Yeah might be a bum meter then.

You can get something super cheap just to keep a better eye on things.

http://www.amazon.com/Zeltauto-Cigarette-Lighter-Digital-Voltmeter/dp/B00VL9JZ0K

I use this a Joes racing gauge. Very good reviews in the car racing community, and its has never let me down. Good value, and I cant complain. I use it for my bikes and all the cars we own.

http://www.amazon.com/Joes-Racing-32307-Pressure-Gauge/dp/B00404WDUC?ie=UTF8&keywords=joes%20racing&qid=1463484884&ref_=sr_1_1&sr=8-1

Stick to the brand names and you'll be fine. My last few sets were Goodyear Nordics - which are fairly inexpensive and they work great.

You can check out tirerack.com to compare tires. I tend to stick away from tires that have a specific left and right side tread. Other than that, check how many miles they are rated for and the user reviews.

Get a tread depth reader for a few bucks and take the time to check each tire for even wear across the tire. The Goodyear Nordics are 13/32" brand new. It's a good way to gauge the % of life left. For inspection purposes, the tires much be 2/32" minimum, which is way too little for winter.

The 6v golf cart batteries from Costco or Sams Club are what people usually recommend. I have them and they work well.

Also, get one of these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B013PKYILS Single best upgrade I've done to my trailer.

This pryometer is single best investment I've made. Testing pressures like you did is basically trying to subjectively measure what this can directly measure. What's the best pressure to run? The one that get's the most work out of the tire. That shows up as relatively consistent temperature distribution across the surface. All changes I've made to the kart correlates in some way to tire temp.

http://www.amazon.com/Joes-Racing-54005-Pyrometer-Adjustable/dp/B005JVFTTM/ref=pd_sim_263_4?ie=UTF8&dpID=414eFGN%2BEtL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR144%2C160_&refRID=0CS2WBZGAA1RVH0YHQQ2

I've seen a couple of Garmins over the years that seemed pretty cool. Etrex I think they're called. The high end you have the Trail Tech's. Those are really sweet. But for just a speedo function I've seen this thing. I've never owned one so I have no idea as to how it installs or how it'll hold up but its small and inexpensive and would mount real nice to the bars.

This is the meter, hookup is pretty easy. bayite DC 6.5-100V 0-100A LCD Display Digital Current Voltage Power Energy Meter Multimeter Ammeter Voltmeter with 100A Current Shunt https://www.amazon.com/dp/B013PKYILS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_Ou3gAb7RH4KPW

To adjust an idle screw while the ECU is disengaged. I need the idle RPM to read 700RPM before I re-engage the ECU, then once I have that set I have the base to mess with another idle screw of the mass air flow sensor that the ECU reads. It actually purrs with the computer disengaged from the fuel ratio system, but I don't want to damage the catalytic convertor if I start running rich, as having disengaged the ECU will also stop reading the O2 sensor. I'm thinking this, is what I will buy as it has a tachometer as well as a volt analyzer too. I researched and the auto parts stores don't lend out electronics further than their eyesight, so I'm probably just going to buy that one from amazon.

Most multimeters have a current setting, the part that says "mA" or just "A". Pretty sure even the ancient analog boxy-looking ones have it. When measuring current you have to be in series with the flow of electricity (as opposed to in parallel for voltage), which is why you need to break the wire.

The less intrusive way would be to pick up something like this, and solder jacks to the input and output side which is basically what Truetone have done.

Granted, you're obviously paying extra for build quality and whatnot , but I think $20 or so is the most I'd pay for something like this.

bayite DC 6.5-100V 0-100A LCD Display Digital Current Voltage Power Energy Meter Multimeter Ammeter Voltmeter with 100A Current Shunt https://www.amazon.com/dp/B013PKYILS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_RRC2CbRANNKNH

That's what I used. I disassembled my power cord where it meets the wires coming out of the power supply. I had the current ring between the power wire. Was pretty simple to do and it keeps track of current and power and total power used.

You'll be surprised that the dial to output won't be linear.

I have no idea where to find that information, but I own one of these http://amzn.com/B001N4QY66 and I would use that and a power drill creatively to compare the ratio. Probably remove the tach and speedo and use the drill to spin the tach/speedo and compare an actual measurement of the drill with the measurement on the speedo/tach. I used my power drill to test out my tach when I had to disassemble and clean it to get it to work when I first bought my bike.

Since you can't easily measure current without being 'inline' with the circuit (hard to do with most multi-meters since they typically won't pass a very usable level of amperage), I would recommend testing the voltage on the battery when it is disconnected, then measure again when connected to the boat, if the voltage drops a few decimals then there is current draw.

They do make inductive type ammeter that allow clamping over a wire, this could be helpful if the current draw is enough to register, here are a couple for cheap:
http://www.amazon.com/0-10A-Rectangle-Analog-Panel-Ammeter/dp/B0050MQK16/ref=sr_1_5?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1404957457&sr=1-5&keywords=ammeter

http://www.amazon.com/85C1-A-Analog-Current-Panel-Ammeter/dp/B0052C9MMI/ref=sr_1_9?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1404957457&sr=1-9&keywords=ammeter

They have all sorts of OBD speedometers on Amazon. These work off the OBD port under the dash. You could also just get a Bluetooth OBD reader and run the Torque Pro app on your phone.

If you must have a GPS speedo, I have this one since the speedo gear in my transmission is shredded. Just make sure the buttons and screen work on it since I had to return the first one I received. You may find something better for cheaper though.

https://www.amazon.com/IDEA-Waterproof-Motorcycle-Indicator-Display-x/dp/B074SJRRP2

And the brand for the mount is Ram. I really like the gear indicator because the bike was so damn quiet when I first got it I couldn’t hear if I was in top gear. I got the shortyGP pipe now which is way louder, but kept the indicator cause I like it.

Depends on what your power situation looks like. I agree with other comments that you don't need the individual switches. However, you may want a battery backup. I like the APC rackmount UPS units. However, if you already have reliable power, and you just want clean power, you can also look into a Furman power conditioner. Otherwise, there are plenty of good rackmount PDUs out there. Personally, I use an APC UPS on it's own, but my rack isn't fully contained and is in a closet full of gear.

Good stuff, thank you all. One more question though, regarding the battery monitor, in order to monitor the discharge rate and not go below 50%, do I need a victron BMV-700 ($150) or can I just use this bayite meter:
r/https://www.amazon.com/bayite-6-5-100V-Display-Multimeter-Voltmeter/dp/B013PKYILS/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_107_bs_t_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=331JX46ZCP7CH3YT868Q

I like the ones with a flex hose section like this:

http://www.amazon.com/Joes-Racing-32307-Pressure-Gauge/dp/B00404WDUC/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1406822942&sr=8-3&keywords=air+tire+pressure+gauge

or

http://www.amazon.com/Campbell-Hausfeld-MP6000-Inflator-Gauge/dp/B0007ZJ1IK/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1406822827&sr=8-4&keywords=air+tire+pressure+gauge

Got home late tonight so shitty speedo pics will have to suffice. Here is what I see from riding position. I can see, without moving my head, from about 10-90 mph (which is all I really need, I've never hit above 85). A slight head shift and I can see the whole thing. You can also see the stock handlebar clam that i sawed off the top part. You can see a line where I missed a swipe with the saw lol.

Here is a shot of the autometer casing and where it is attached. I widened the hole in the bracket and just attached it straight to the gas tank bolt. Even with mirrors and handlebar mounted turn signals it just fits (when I park the bike, the forks just touch it.)

[This] (http://www.amazon.com/Auto-Meter-3209-Tachometer-Accessory/dp/B00062YWNI) is the autometer casing I bought. Wrapped the speedo in one coat of electrical tape, one coat of hockey tape, and it fit perfectly. With the rubber pieces on the speedo there was only about one square inch (at the base of the autometer) that was exposed, but I wrapped it once fully anyway.

They make these small stepper motors just for this type of application. No specialized driver needed, hook up directly up the Arduino ttl output pins. I bought one years ago on eBay for a couple dollars to play around with. This Amazon link are similar but different color. They are useful to make all sorts of analog instrumentation displays.

http://www.amazon.com/Instrument-Dashboard-Silverado-Cavalier-Avalanche/dp/B004PXAUGC

You can use these and mount under your tank https://www.amazon.com/Auto-Meter-3209-Tachometer-Mounting/dp/B00062YWNI/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1519655184&sr=8-9&keywords=autometer+tachometer

I used this although it mounted to the fork and it is works so good and is super tucked in https://www.amazon.com/WinllyAT-Relocation-Bracket-Sportster-1995-2016/dp/B074H7LLNX/ref=sr_1_8?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1519655244&sr=1-8&keywords=sportster+speedometer+relocation

What are you trying to simulate? RC helicopters can run at a wide variety of rotor speeds depending on blade geometry and performance goals. High performance 3D flight will often see head speeds of 3000-4000 RPM on platforms as large as 600 size. If you're going for efficiency you can get asymmetrical blades and run much lower head speed (~1000 RPM or even lower has been done). Any speed between those two is a realistic speed, so the choice of what speed to use is for you to decide depending on what makes sense in the context of your application.

This is true for collective-pitch helicopters. If you're talking specifically about fixed pitch helicopters then head speed is directly tied to lift, in which case it still doesn't do a lot of good to choose a particular head speed because the chosen head speed will vary based on the lift required at any given time.

You don't need a strobe though, and tachs aren't that expensive.

Yep. Here's one on Amazon.

But usually you stick a polarized screen thing to the windshield so you can see it better.

Most excellent. These will work well in my racecar for temp warning lights. Where'd you get that digital display? I like it too, but want something larger and most likely Red. I'll probably end up with something from Autometer.

EDIT: Found the link in your other discussion thread. https://www.amazon.com/WonVon-Speedometer-Accessories-Instruments-Modification/dp/B07QB61XQW/ref=redir_mobile_desktop?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&ref_=yo_ii_img

I don't know how much you consider "stupid expensive" but I got something like this, and I'm sure if you look at ebay they're even cheaper than this one.

https://www.amazon.com/Digital-Photo-Laser-Tachometer-Contact/dp/B001N4QY66

Ive found this on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/bayite-6-5-100V-Display-Multimeter-Voltmeter/dp/B013PKYILS/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8

Anyone have thoughts on this? Ive you read the reviews, in reference to van power, they're generally positive.

The tach can still be off. Laser tachs are pretty cheap.

What RPM are you looking to idle at? 700?

Something like this (amazon link) would work in theory. Just needs power, it gets your speed via GPS (which will be more accurate than your 40 y/o speedometer).

The problem I think you're going to run in to, unless you have a curved window Super, is bugs have like an inch of dash ledge and a nearly perpendicular flat windshield. So no place to set it and a harder angle to shine it on.

Something to consider with a PVC shower, is supplementing your heat. Best way I've found to do so is to use a heating element like this one and couple it with a temp controller. This runs off 12v DC so you'd have to take into account electrical capacity, but I figure I could run that while on the move so the vehicle alternator takes the load, or from an onsite generator if you're in a fixed location.

Disclaimer: I have not run this yet, I'm still in the planning phases of a PVC shower. This was found through research.

I use this thing: https://www.amazon.com/Actron-CP7605-Tachometer-Voltmeter-Analyzer/dp/B00062YUUS/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8, which looks like it's out of production. But this thing looks alright too...https://www.amazon.com/Actron-CP7677-Automotive-TroubleShooter-Multimeter/dp/B0002LZU7K/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=dwell+tach&qid=1557710630&s=automotive&sr=1-2

I think on your model you just connect it to the battery (mine goes on the coil however). The directions should say how to hook it up. Generally you just set it to "4 cyl." and it should read somewhere between 600-3500 rpm.

​

If we think it's the carburetor (choke specific), it's important to rule out anything else. Here's a list of things to check before adjusting the carburetor:

- NO vacuum leaks. This includes intake & exhaust manifolds, carburetor base, pcv hose, brake booster hose, AND all 3mm hoses like the vacuum advance or smog lines. Vacuum leaks can mess with your idle speed. Basically anywhere there's a vacuum connection, make sure it's not leaking. I like to replace all rubber and spray carb cleaner around metal connections.

- Timing and distributor air gap. You can set these things even with the fast idle you've got. It just has to be running (unless you do a static adjustment, which I don't know how to do). Just get a timing light and some brass feeler gauges. Timing = 8deg BTDC, Air Gap = .008" to .016"

- Valve Adjustment. As the engine is recently rebuilt, this probably isn't an issue. Anyways: Intake = .008", Exhaust = .012", HOT.

- Float Level. Look at the glass on the front of the carb. The fuel level should be right in the middle. If it isn't take the top off the carb, flip it upside down and do this: https://board.marlincrawler.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi94.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fl104%2Fspcmike%2FDSC03557.jpg&hash=77ab726ca7e4065975c0b98df09b6f94

​

Questions: You say it sometimes won't idle at all at startup. Will it idle once warm? If so, does the idle go down to more of a normal speed when warm? Also, when it doesn't start correctly, is the engine hot or cold?

​

It could be that both the choke adjustment and the basic idle adjustment are off. It may be that they're adjusted for the old, worn out engine that you rebuilt, which is why it used to work. It shouldn't be too hard to adjust. I like to do the idle first, then choke. If you need any more info, I'll be around. Best of luck.

This one says it fits your FZ1, plug and play supposedly.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07594TBRZ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_e0BtDbMEG011S

For the price worth a try.

Battery Meter. Ive been toying with making one of these for a friend after I finish upgrading my camper. Someone else may be able to offer some more insight.

Ac meter: bayite AC 80-260V 100A BYT-VAEM-034 Digital Current Voltage Power Energy Analyzer Meter Ammeter Voltmeter with Open-close Current Transformer Split Core CT https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01D8G9GPW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_v2hPzb2TNZDNP

Dc meter: bayite DC 6.5-100V 0-100A LCD Display Digital Current Voltage Power Energy Meter Multimeter Ammeter Voltmeter with 100A Current Shunt https://www.amazon.com/dp/B013PKYILS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_g3hPzbSXR3EHB

I bought one off Amazon for 20 bucks. Here it is:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00062YWNI/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1

If you have an OEM gauge, it'll fit in there. Don't second guess it, just do it.

This is the gauge. I was only able to hook up the gas indicator and its backwards because the float switch is normally open instead of closed, so when it indicates a full tank its actually on empty hahaha
As far as the other dummy lights are concerned. I ordered these LEDs. I haven't hooked them up yet because I need to build a housing for them.

Get yourself a nice gauge like this: http://amzn.com/B00404WDUC

Makes a world of difference. It's got a pressure release button and a lot more accurate than the pencil style that a lot of people use.

Funny thing is I use to have to test my 12v battery with my old ICE car (Alternator problems) Heres a link to one → https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00VL9JZ0K/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_J51zDbEPZZ4Q8

I have been debating buying one of these for my router table. I was hoping someone could tell me if there is a way to connect some kind of tachometer to the motor to display RPM.

edit: Nevermind. Apparently they make this thing

For reference, I have around 14,000 miles on my 18" Michelin MXM4 tires that came with the car (and around 7,000 on separate winter tires). When I checked the tread last they were all between 5/32nds and 6/32nds. I don't usually drive too aggressively but EVs are notorious for wearing out tires quicker due to the instant torque. Remember that the factory tires have a treadwear warranty that will get you a discount on your next set.


Also, it's cheap and easy to check your own tread depths using a tool like this that you can find in the automotive section of Walmart or in an auto parts store www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01F5N55B0

i like this one

the big face and hold feature are slick

Big fan of Joe's Racing. http://www.amazon.com/Joes-Racing-32307-Pressure-Gauge/dp/B00404WDUC/

> shunt

cool I got this https://www.amazon.com/bayite-6-5-100V-Display-Multimeter-Voltmeter/dp/B013PKYILS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1482213946&sr=8-1&keywords=shunt+12v

I use Torque Pro on my android with a bluetooth ODBII scanner. It has helped me to diagnose some issues on a friend’s car. As well as see some benefits from some small fix-ups that I was not sure would be noticeable (eg. cleaning my MAF)

For tire pressure I use Joes racing gauge

There are a bunch of devices like this. For ac and dc. Amaz, ebay, etc

My solar controller gives me the data via the web. I use one of the above for monitoring what goes to the inverter. i could put in a ac ammeter. hmmm. Probably will at some point.

you would put one between your solar controller and batteries ... and another between battery and inverter.

not sure how to send the data to the web.

Fridge consumption should be way under that. It sits idle most of the day. The 5.5a is a max rate I believe. At the bottom of this article, they address it a bit. https://www.4xoverlandadventures.com/2017-winter-fridge-shootout/3/

In theory, the solar should be more than enough I think. I think I am going to buy a meter or two so I can measure amp draw from the accessories and another to measure panel production. I wish there was a unit that just displayed both but I don't see one.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B013PKYILS/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A1T3LOAKNUUM9N&psc=1

A lot of people will tell you to do the penny trick, but I hate it. Coins wear and that is not an accurate measurement for something like tires, which are a safety device. A tire depth gauge like this is less than 5 bucks and will always give you accurate results. Buy one for each car and one for the house so you always have one around. I would replace around 4-5/32nds myself as I see you already did.

https://www.amazon.com/GODESON-88702-Smart-Color-Coded/dp/B01F5N55B0/ref=pd_sbs_263_t_2/137-8617068-0944230?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B01F5N55B0&pd_rd_r=a036bac7-2c6f-44e1-ba76-7d40b8a30394&pd_rd_w=Kn0A9&pd_rd_wg=VVTGw&pf_rd_p=5cfcfe89-300f-47d2-b1ad-a4e27203a02a&pf_rd_r=2ATS0B6FGE716G022FK6&psc=1&refRID=2ATS0B6FGE716G022FK6

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You can usually pick on of these up at an auto parts store for a few bucks.

Generally speaking, around 4 or 5/32 you've got a dry-weather-only tire, and they're legally bald at 2/32

You need new wires. Something like this https://www.amazon.com/Term-LOK-TLC310-Compressor-Terminal-Packard/dp/B004UW0GGC

As far as contactor not energizing it might be another issue but the compreasor should run if you push contactor in manually. It won't start with those burned wires though. If anything you can bypass the board u till you get a replacement.

Or you can buy the new stepper motors, tear down the instrument cluster, desolder the old ones and solder the new ones in their places. Costs about $15 for parts and isn't too hard if you've got mechanical experience. You do need a soldering iron though.

I have a 2018 cb500x, but they make these specific to a variety of bikes https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07594TBRZ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_-rztDb4BH9YYX

Tachometers are overrated. If you need to 'calibrate' a variable speed knob, pickup one of these;

https://www.amazon.com/Digital-Photo-Laser-Tachometer-Contact/dp/B001N4QY66/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1523578148&sr=8-4&keywords=tachometer&dpID=511BEAxqKFL&preST=_SX300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

Through the remote monitoring device: https://www.amazon.com/Digital-Photo-Laser-Tachometer-Contact/dp/B001N4QY66/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1549557310&sr=8-1-spons&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=laser+tachometer&psc=1

Probe all day . More accurate and more precise

https://www.amazon.com/Joes-Racing-32307-Pressure-Gauge/dp/B00404WDUC

You could try:

• Dashboard stepper motor; literally made for moving gauge needles. Can be drive directly from uController pins
  
• Brushless Gimbal
  
• Air core meter movement, commonly found in aftermarket tachometers. These are nearly the same (functionally) as gimbals.
  

I got something similar myself without the Snap-On premium several years back.

https://imgur.com/a/sraBw8u

Added some monitors and shunts to the previous setup. What do you think?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B013PKYILS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Terminating 10# stuff
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XQ8Q1VM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

and terminal fuse

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0019ZBTV4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Look at this one also. Voltmeter.

Btw, i did buy this device with my system to monitor battery levels and draw. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B013PKYILS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B013PKYILS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This style of meter is useful.

Just run each component individually to get current draw. Cannot vouch for accuracy but numbers I've measured match product specs, so there's that.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B013PKYILS/ref=pd_aw_sim_469_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=HG4PM9RREG7NGDCR0Z0V this is the dc ver but you wouldint need a 100 amp one

This is what i use to monitor my power usage. It has an alarm feature that goes off when you hit a predetermined/adjustable voltage level.


bayite DC 6.5-100V 0-100A LCD Display Digital Current Voltage Power Energy Meter Multimeter Ammeter Voltmeter with 100A Current Shunt https://www.amazon.com/dp/B013PKYILS?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

Usually that's the case. But for this specific amp meter it needs to be on the ground. I tried it the normal way, and it would just give gibberish readings. It's really bizzare.

A bunch of the reviews are complaining about it

https://www.amazon.com/bayite-6-5-100V-Display-Multimeter-Voltmeter/dp/B013PKYILS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1521581494&sr=8-1&keywords=amp+meter+solar


I think the ampmeter works by measuring the voltage change over a fixed resistance.

Edit: Just tested. Anything after the shunt isn't measured. There's probably some sort of correcting it does to take into account the load after the shunt. Probably so it doesn't measure itself. I dunno.

Edit 2: it's included wiring diagramhttps://i.imgur.com/uXCRNyY.png

And it's really border-line emergency at that point. 2/32 is the minimum by law. It's not going to work so great if wet or snowy. Tires should be replaced around 4/32, before they degrade too much in slippery conditions.

I recommend getting a depth gauge to throw in your glovebox. Under $4 on amazon.

Dangerous as is, the battery needs a large main fuse and a manual disconnect switch

https://www.westmarine.com/buy/blue-sea-systems--m-series-mini-on-off-battery-switch-with-knob-black--



Your inverter and fridge aren't fused.


10 gauge wire is not enough to run a fridge and an inverter I would suspect. Also, you might want to run the fridge and inverter on its own, proportionally sized fuse; that way the fuses don't have to be so massive, requiring less potential sparks and fire to blow the fuses. As it is, there's no fuse, and the inverter and fridge share the same cable; the most load hungry devices. That means the cable needs to be double thick from the battery to a bus bar, to the fridge and inverter. Otherwise you will have considerable voltage drop or possibly even melt your wires and cause a fire.


Same thing for the solar charge controller. According to this chart: http://www.affordable-solar.com/solar-tools/wire-sizing-charts/ you can only go 3.5 feet before you get more than 2% voltage drop with 10awg and 30amps - and it says that no more than 2% is acceptable. This might help: https://www.scribd.com/document/334383567/Solar-Setup-by-sprinterpirate



Also I see no battery/amp meter. This is limited to 100a but you get the idea: https://www.amazon.com/bayite-6-5-100V-Display-Multimeter-Voltmeter/dp/B013PKYILS/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1495073407&sr=8-3&keywords=battery+meter

And brokedown is correct, you can't just leave different types of batteries always connected whenever the engine is on. You need to disconnect it either with a programmed ACR or manually.

Joe's Racing tire pressure gauge
http://www.amazon.com/Joes-Racing-32307-Pressure-Gauge/dp/B00404WDUC

I've had crappy ones for many years until I spent a little bit more and got this. Great quality and should last you a long time.

I'm not sure if there is a pressure gauge that's technically "for life" that's consumer grade and relatively cheap since they are considered to be scientific devices that have parts that wear and/or require calibration at some point.