Reddit mentions of CanaKit 5V 2.5A Raspberry Pi 3 B+ Power Supply/Adapter (UL Listed)

Or don't and get a raspberry pi and put Kodi on it.

Here^1 is^2 everything^3 you^4 need to make a KodiPi with enough space to put a bunch of movies on (if you wish, otherise just get a smaller mSD). About the same price as a brand new roku, but you can do a lot more with it, and it's open source so you could do whatever you wanted with the device.

You need:

• A RaspberryPi - newer versions have a better CPU (but you can get a Zero for $5). If you want to play N64, go with a newer Raspberry Model B.
  
• A +5.1V micro USB power supply (for RetroPie, a 2.5A one works well)
  
• A USB Keyboard
  
• An HDMI cable
  
• A gaming controller of your choosing (USB cord if you can/otherwise bluetooth)
  
• An SD card - these can come pre-loaded if you shop around
  
  Optional:
  
  
• A nice case (according to OP's friend, Legos).
  
• SD Card Reader/Writer (if you didn't buy an SD card preloaded; some laptops have them)
  
• A bluetooth dongle (for PS3/PS4/XBox/XBoxOne/etc.)
  
• A wifi dongle (if you don't want a hard wired connection)
  
  Download RetroPie
  
  Follow video here:
  
  https://retropie.org.uk/documentation/installing-retropie/
  
  Might I add, you can setup SSH on the retropie, so you can connect to the machine and upload ROMs without having to use a USB keyboard. Google for old ROMs, I've used LoveROMs in the past.
  
  Total build time ~1-2 hours. Total cost $30 - $65.

You could use a tutorial here. It is a lot easier to do than it seems. I will tell you, you need a keyboard, Raspberry Pi 3, and an SD Card. Once you get that, here is where you can download it.. Then, just follow the instructions on Instructable. You really do not have to pay someone, it is a lot easier than it seems. If you want, you can even get a retro case (or normal one like I did) and get a retro controller. PM me if you need more help (I won't charge you if you need help, it is really easy)!

Edit: Ill do yo a bigger favor. Here are the things you will need

Raspberry Pi 3

Raspberry Pi 3 Charger Kit. A powerful phone charger or micro usb adapter should work, but someone can let me know if I am wrong.

SD Card Raspberry Pi 3

Keyboard, though, you probably have one of these at home

Retro Controller, not required, but recommended

You will need at least an 8 GB SD Card, but I recommend 32 GB

Assuming you are talking about R-Pi, v3b.

All 32 bit and lower works flawlessly. This includes but is not limited to Genisis, GB, GBC, GBA, NES, SNES, PSX.

N64 is the most commonly discussed as it has a large library of great games that are also often 4x multiplayer. Most games work very well (e.g. Mario Kart), while some do not (in particular 007 Goldeneye).

Hardware:

• Raspberry Pi 3 - $36
  
• Samsung EVO 32GB Class 10 Micro SDHC - $11
  
• CanaKit 5V 2.5A Raspberry Pi 3 Power Supply - $10
  
• Addicore Raspberry Pi Heatsink Set - $5
  
• AmazonBasics High-Speed HDMI Cable - 3 Feet - $5
  
• Official Raspberry Pi 3 Case - $8
  
  
  Total cost so far, $75. You can get a less expensive case that also comes with the heat sinks bringing your cost down to ~$65.
  
  Cheap right? Well, the one thing that is going to cost you the most in any of these builds is the controllers.
  
  I like:
  
  
• 8BITDO NES30 Pro Wireless Bluetooth Controller - $49 (x4).
  
  When I first bought them, they were $36 each, and I love them. They work really well via the Pi's built in Bluetooth.
  
  Another great option that works really well are the XBOX-360 controllers. Wired ones run you $27 each brand new, and wireless are $34/each, plus one adapter for the set.
  
  
  In other words, four good controllers are going to run you $100-$200. Which is the bulk of most builds. In a childs-only build, I am considering either wired XBOX-360 controllers because of their awesome cord break-away feature, or going even less expensive with the $12 SNES clones, though that eliminates the ability to play N64 and PSX.

It's the official raspi screen, 7" with about a 1" border and is essentially plug n' play into the raspi. I also found this random bamboo case for the screen which I like a lot. I also need a slightly more powerful power supply for the raspi and screen together.

> I'm new to all of this, and I have zero experience with coding/programing/etc.

Do not feel intimidated. This isn't difficult. It'll take some time and patience, but it's very rewarding getting your system up and running.

--------------------------

> I was thinking of getting an all in one kit like this oneIs there any downside to this?

Do not buy that over-priced garbage. The biggest gripe to the kit is the unknown PSU, and small/generic memory card.

What you'll need:

• $40 Raspberry Pi 3
  
• $20 MicroSDXC Card - any size. 64GB for $20 seems to be a solid deal.
  
• $20 Case - it can be as low as $5. I choose this one for fun.
  
• $10 Power Supply - You can try one you have around the house first. If you ever get the low-voltage warning icon, you'll need a proper PS
  
• $13 Mini Keyboard - I use mine all the time. Others use basic USB keyboards from Goodwill. Others SSH into the console. This is optional.
  
  Again, there are some very optional parts above. It can be as cheap or expensive as you want.
  
  
• Cheap: Pi3 w. $5 case and have everything else (keyboard, memory card, power supply, controller) at home, you're at $45.
  
• Not cheap: Pi3 w. $20 case, $45 128GB MicroSDXC, $20 back-lit keyboard, $10 power supply, $50 Wii U Pro bluetooth controller = $145
  
  --------------------------
  
  >So If I get this kit, I can just hook it up to my tv with an HDMI, add my ROMs via SD card, and plug in my USB controllers and I'm good to go?
  
  If you go the route of piecing together your own kit from higher quality parts, the only thing missing is the RetroPie image on the SD card.
  
  At a very high-level:
  
  
• Flash RetroPie onto your SD card. To make your life easier, you'll need access to a computer.
  
• Power up the assembled unit (SD card in the Pi. Pi in the case. Connect a keyboard. Power on).
  
• Configure WiFi
  
• Enable SSH
  
• Transfer Roms
  
• Configure a controller
  
  --------------------------
  

Raspberry Pi 2: $35

SNES controller adapter: $11

32 GB MicroSD card: $10

Power Supply: $10

Case: $7

RetroPie: $0

The ability to play your favorite games forever: Priceless

Well the other day Rasberry Pi 3 Model B was $28 w/ free Shipping so:

Raspberry Pi- $28

32GB SD card- $13

2.5A Power Supply- $10

Heatsinks- $5

Case- $8

HDMI Cable- $7

_____

Total- $ 71

I'd say it's an okay deal. I'd rather buy it bundled anyway, just so it all arrives at once.

Look for a label bearing a reassuring phrase, such as, "Probably won't burst into flames."

You want something rated for at least 2.5 amps. (2500 mA, 2.5A)

https://www.raspberrypi.org/documentation/hardware/raspberrypi/power/README.md

https://www.amazon.com/CanaKit-Raspberry-Supply-Adapter-Charger/dp/B00MARDJZ4

http://www.raspyfi.com/the-best-raspberry-pi-power-supply/

http://www.raspyfi.com/power-supply-for-raspberry-pi-what-you-should-know-about/

• Raspberry Pi 3 - $35
  
• Slick case with heat sinks - $6
  
• 5v 2.5a power supply - $10 (or free if you already have one)
  
• 8GB Micro SD Card - $7 (or free if you already have one)
  
• RasPlex OS - (free)
  
  Maximum Total: $58
  
  That would give you a full-fledged Plex client with all the features you mentioned (I think--someone jump in here if I'm wrong).

the most important thing is the SD card. I use this one: https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-Class-Micro-Adapter-MB-MC32DA/dp/B00WR4IJBE/ref=sr_1_6?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1495118025&sr=1-6&keywords=Samsung+Micro+SD+EVO%2B also a proper power supply: https://www.amazon.com/CanaKit-Raspberry-Supply-Adapter-Charger/dp/B00MARDJZ4/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1495118069&sr=1-3&keywords=pi+power+supply

I have yet to encounter any problems with this one.

What power supply are you using?

I experienced freezes with my Pi 3 until I got the recommended power adapter, which puts out 2.5A @ 5V (a very non-standard configuration for a USB power supply, I might add, so if you're using a generic power adapter, you're likely not giving the Pi the power it's asking for).

Here's the recommended power supply. Might wanna take a look at the one you're using and see if it's rated for 2.5A.

I built one earlier this year (and another for a friend):

• Pi3, $37
  
• case, $6
  
• power supply, $10
  
• microSD card, $10
  
  So for about $60, you have the hardware. Assembly is easy. The software part is relatively trivial:
  
  
• Download ROMs
  
• Download disk image for RetroPi
  
• Install the image (download a tool to help) onto the SD card (may need a USB adapter)
  
• Upload the ROMs on to the image
  
• Plug it in to your TV
  
  It works with a wide array of controllers. I use my PS4 controllers with it and it works like a champ.

I just built one today. The popular 2.5A power adapter is this one, which is probably on your list

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MARDJZ4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Then I bought this case, which acts as a giant heat sink and was shown to cool the CPU more then the little heatsinks

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00QB6F9I0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I followed the instructions that others posted and I've been trying it out all night, with a few hiccups for certain systems (Neo Geo, Family Computer Disk System), but Google searches fixed those issues.

I'm using my Xbox One controller, which has been working great and has extra buttons for different things (like save states, which I don't think can be done an an SNES controller)

Haven't had any issues with my China 5v 3A adapter -- but I'm not OC'd - try reverting back to standard clock and see if the bolt goes away - if it does you might need to get a larger/better power supply ( I've seen a few reports saying the Canakit supply doesn't actually provide 2.5A @ 5V )

For example this review on Amazon by Chris Satterleeon April 4, 2016 ( https://www.amazon.com/CanaKit-Raspberry-Supply-Adapter-Charger/dp/B00MARDJZ4 )

He does some Testing and includes a chart which shows it and says :

"
An interesting point is where the curves cross their rated current values. The Kootek 2.0A supply crosses 2.0A at about 4.6V (2.04.6 = 9.2W). The Canakit 2.5A supply crosses 2.5A at about 4.5V (2.54.5 = 11.25W). Both of these are well below 5V. Probably high enough that the RPi won't crash, but cutting it close.

Another interesting point is where the curves cross 5.0V. The Kootek 2.0A supply crosses 5.0V at about 0.8A (0.85.0 = 4.0W). The Canakit 2.5A supply crosses 5.0V at about 1.0A (1.05.0 = 5.0W).

People who are claiming that this supply doesn't deliver 2.5A are correct - if they are expecting it to deliver 2.5A at 5.0V. But what is important is whether the supply is sufficient for the RPi 3. All I can say for sure is that it does deliver proportionally more power than a 2.0A-rated power supply that has worked fine for me with the Gen 1 RPi B+. For that reason, I'm giving it four stars. "


So by the time it hits 2.5A the voltage has dropped to 4.5V which may be the reason the lightning bolt is showing if the case adds even a small amount more of drop by using the GPIO pins for the power in !

Don't forget a good power supply or micro usb cable.

I just got done building a new Kodi box and I have to tell you its the only thing I've ever built that's normie approved. And by that I mean my wife, kids, and a hoard of cousins.

I used a RPi 3 + LibreELEC and hats off to the LibreELEC team because the thing reboots in 17 seconds and I haven't had a single skip or buffer problem on 1080p video.

Part | Price | Link
-----|-------|-----
Raspberry Pi 3 | $41 | https://www.amazon.com/Raspberry-Pi-RASP-PI-3-Model-Motherboard/dp/B01CD5VC92
Power Adapter | $10 | https://www.amazon.com/CanaKit-Raspberry-Supply-Adapter-Charger/dp/B00MARDJZ4
SD Card | $10 | https://www.amazon.com/SanDisk-Memory-SDSDU-032G-U46-Change-Version/dp/B00812K4V4
Case | $20 | https://flirc.tv/more/raspberry-pi-case-ke
Rii i8+ 2.4GHz Mini Wireless Keyboard | $22 | https://www.amazon.com/Rii-Wireless-Keyboard-Touchpad-Rechargable/dp/B00Z81U3YY
HDMI Cable | $06 | https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-High-Speed-HDMI-Cable-Standard/dp/B014I8SIJY
Ethernet Cable | $05 | https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-RJ45-Cat-6-Ethernet-Patch-Cable-10-Feet-3-Meters/dp/B00N2VISLW
OS | $00 | https://libreelec.tv
Total | $114 |

I think one of these should be on every TV.

Look at /r/retropie - it's more focused on these projects.

At minimum, you'll want: a [Raspberry Pi 3 ($35)](
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CD5VC92/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Sb.pzbAZKNASG), a case ($7-$20), a power supply ($10), an HDMI cable ($7), one or two controllers ($15-$30 each), and a micro SD card ($22 for a Class 10 64 GB). There are a lot of threads about which controllers are best - I'm a fan of the wireless 8bitdo SNES30 / SFC30 (usually cheaper on eBay).

You don't need any programming experience to set it up, though you may need to edit some configuration files to set certain things up properly. I've built 2 of these to date - they play anything up to and including PlayStation 1 consistently well. N64 is very hit and miss, though Mario Kart 64 and Kirby 64 work well.

it will do basic tasks but expect it to crash under any which are moderately intense

heres the 'official' one. but just look around for one where on the label it says 5v 2.5A (five volts, 2.4 amps) & the amps may be listed as 2000mA like in your picture.(1A = 1000mA)

good chance you may have one powering/charging something else =)

https://www.amazon.com/CanaKit-Raspberry-Supply-Adapter-Charger/dp/B00MARDJZ4

This was on page one of google. I don’t know what you are doing wrong, but I’ve found 2.5A power supplies quite easily.

It isn't difficult, don't get intimidated. You can do this in an evening without any experience. You'll need a Pi, a Pi case, a Pi power adapter, a microSD card, a monitor encoder (if you tell me which model monitor you have, I'll send you a link for the encoder for it (NOT WHICH GAME YOU HAVE -- the model numbers vary even for the same titles -- just take the back panel off and read me the model number, it's in bold white text on a sticker on the back of the monitor)), some USB encoders to plug your buttons and joysticks into the Pi (grab two of these), and two buttons to use for coin/select (you will have to do some very minor drilling into that little black diagonal panel between the kick panel and the control panel to mount these; don't be scared though, even if you mess it up, you can get a piece of 1/8" MDF and paint it black for under $5 to replace it).

For instructions on installing, see here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=09DQCOr6zQM - just ignore the products he tells you to use, since you'll be using the stock joysticks and buttons and getting just the encoders. The installation for everything else is the same.

Separate Power supply for sure.

A pi 3 needs a beefy supply, like this one

Are you planning on using Octoprint?

A word of advice- don't go too cheap, that's how you end up spending a bunch of money on cheap power supplies instead of a little more one time on a good one. Here's the one I have for my Pi 2, been running it 19 days straight 24/7 for my Minecraft server with no issues.

Canakit 5V 2.5A power supply

Late to the party here, but are there any other common reasons for it? I am still getting that warning even what should be a good adapter. Haven't been seeing any ill effects from that I think

I am using this one:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MARDJZ4

A second look at the reviews shows quite a few people still getting undervoltage with the 3b+. Guess I got what I paid for.

Sure.

So I used this as a guide.

The petRockBlog and /r/raspberry_pi were also helpful resources.

I bought a Raspberry Pi B+ Complete Starter Kit, 2 Buffalo Classic USB Gamepads, and Zune A/V Output Cable. The A/V cable has to be compatible with a Zune, some A/V cables like this won't work. I learned that the hard way. I also bought a Mini Wireless Keyboard. A keyboard is required for the setup (any keyboard will do). I got the mini keyboard so I could have a keyboard in my car to troubleshoot potential issues while on the road. It's optional, but I recommend it.

Then I just followed the guide (mentioned above) to set up the RasPi with RetroPi, then plugged in all the cables, and bam I had a retro game console in my car.

NOTE: Instead of the 2.5A Power Supply included in the kit I used a standard micro usb cable plugged into a USB slot in the center console to power the RasPi.

I've pasted links to all the items from amazon below. There's a lot of tutorials out there, but here's a good one that has all the information you need:
https://www.google.com/amp/www.pocket-lint.com/news/137374-can-t-buy-a-nes-classic-mini-how-to-build-your-own-retro-console-for-just-50.amphtml?client=safari

Official Raspberry Pi 3 Case - Red/White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CK3XTIE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_KLsyybK7JT1C8

Retro NES Nintendo Entertainment System Original Console Art Video Game Vinyl Decal Skin Sticker Cover for Original Nintendo 3DS System https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00VMU8ZRW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_nMsyyb955DVQ4

Raspberry Pi 3 Model B Motherboard https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CD5VC92/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_0MsyybX4SA6RR

CanaKit 5V 2.5A Raspberry Pi 3 Power Supply / Adapter / Charger (UL Listed) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MARDJZ4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_CNsyybASXJXZA

Samsung SDXC 64GB Class 10 UHS-1 Memory Card w/ Adapter, (MB-MC64DA/AM) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01273JZMG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_6NsyybQ5ADHJF

Retro-Link Wired NES Style USB Controller https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GWKL3Y4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_pOsyybP1FPB3K

Oh, you'll also need an hdmi cable.

So it appears that it does say 100-240V AC and 50-60 Hz on the cable. Here is the model on Amazon. After the input Hertz it also lists the amperes at 0.5A. The output is 5V and has 2.5A (not 1.5 or 2 like you mentioned). You can actually see it in this image if you zoom in.

Does it seem like it would be fine then to just add an adapter? Is the output important when plugging it into a socket, since basically I will only use it to power up the pi? Also, I have a B+ Model.

I unfortunately have limited knowledge of electrical things, so I guess there is no better time than now to learn that.

You have some hungry sensors. If they are pulling off of the 5V rail on the Pi, then that pulls directly off of the usb power supply with no limiting factor other than the supply. If you are not planning on adding any more peripherals, then a 2.5 amp power supply will work. They are common and you can get them anywhere. Here is one from a reputable brand on Amazon. If you are considering adding more to the Pi, then maybe go with 3amp or more to be safe. Don't go with the 3.3V GPIO to power anything if you can get away with using the 5V. I have read that the 3.3V is limited to 50ma, although I have pulled more without side effects, I think it might cause damage in the long run.

I tried using an older Pi to host my pi-hole and compared it to a newer 3b+ and found no real difference in DNS lookups, but updates and the web interface were a lot slower and some things would run out of memory on the really old Pi. Ordered a second 3b+ and replaced the old Pi.

Power supply quality is critical, get a good one from Adafruit or Canakit.

A case is important to protect the Pi from damage, something simple is good enough, a dog-bone style works well and is a bit cooler if you have a safe place to mount the Pi, a more fully enclosed one is safer if the Pi is going to be banging around with a bunch of other stuff. Cooler really doesn't matter in a home install unless you are going to add something to your Pi that will cause it to run hot, fans, heatsinks and such really aren't needed.

SD cards are cheap, Samsung or Sandisk 32 GBs are excellent and you save pennies by going cheaper or smaller.

For Ethernet there is little difference in cables for the lengths you'll be using, and standard cable will work, get one a couple feet longer than the minimum and you'll have slack to work with.

So Pi, power supply, case, SD card and Ethernet cable will get you set up with a very nice Pi-hole.

CanaKit 5V 2.5A Raspberry Pi 3 B+ Power Supply / Adapter (UL Listed) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MARDJZ4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_lFX5Cb1FDKT41

This one.

I have had great results with these two AC adapters, one switched and one not. Every other one I've tried was garbage. These two I have had no low voltage warnings in literally dozens of hours runtime.

• Gowoops 5V 2.5A Power Supply Adapter Charger and Micro USB Cable with On Off Switch and Heatsinks for Raspberry Pi 2 3 Model B
  
• CanaKit 5V 2.5A Raspberry Pi 3 Power Supply / Adapter / Charger (UL Listed)

Skimping on a power supply can cause weird intermittent problems.

That being said, I like the Anker and the CanaKit power supply.

Yea, this is what most people get, you just install an OS on a microSD and then pop it into the pi and ur good to go.

No kit needed. Here's what you want:

Raspberry Pi

SD card

Power supply

Case

I've built around 75 of them, the above is what I've found works. Especially the power supply and SD card. I've had real mixed results with anything but the above.

Depending on the exact model of B, you want from 2-2.4A @ 5VDC to meet the 'official' spec. The RPi can run on less, but you're better off with a larger adapter than needed than the other way around. Adafruit, Canakit and the official RPi adapters are all good choices. They use thick conductors as well as an adequate power supply, so sufficient power makes it to the RPi.

$35 is just for the Pi 3 itself. You can find Pi cases pretty cheap, like $7-$10. From there it's the HDMI cable (which you probably already have laying around), MicroSD card, and power supply.

It's powered over USB to outlet wart plug. 2.5a is recommended, but you can probably get away with 2.0a or 2.1a, which is more common. Or buy a full standalone power plug for it. Assuming you don't have a microSD card, 32GB is only ~$10 these days, and you can get a 64GB one for about double that.

So total cost might be around $50-75 depending on accessories and what you already have at hand versus what you need to buy. Still quite cheap for a retro emulation rig (and can always be repurposed as something cool like a firewall or mini-PC or something, since there are Linux builds for the Pi as well).

This is my favorite set up to give friends. Looks good and mostly foolproof hardware wise!

Raspberry Pi 3 Model B

Rasptendo SNES Case (IMO, connect the power button as intended, but either solder the reset button as per the method mentioned in there or don't connect it at all. This way there's no way for the user to do a non-safe shutdown of the OS)

Dual fan heatsink

Bluetooth adapter (more reliable than built-in bluetooth, change /boot/config.txt to disable onboard Bluetooth)

PS3 SIXAXIS Controller (Dualshock 3's work too, but I like the legit OEM ones, and those are hard to find. The convincing bootlegs/fakes are usually impossible to tell apart from legit ones when ordering online. That's why I look for used SIXAXIS controllers - no bootlegs. Also, I use PS3 controllers because pairing can be done or re-done entirely by connecting up mini-USB cables. No menus necessary once you set it up the first time!)

Sandisk 64GB MicroSD

Canakit PSU

HDMI cable, Mini-USB cable.


-----

For a more serious, less user-friendly but more overclockable setup, ditch the case/heatsink above and go with these instead:

Some kind of heatsink, I'm using one from the Kintaro case but I suspect the cheap stick-on heatsinks are probably fine too

this open-air case (throw out the fan as it's way too loud... I'm sure other open-air cases will work but I like that this one has the 40mm setup for the below fan and the little grille to prevent curious fingers from getting in there at least)

this Noctua 40mm 5v fan (expensive, but quiet and provides solid cooling)

https://www.amazon.com/CanaKit-Raspberry-Supply-Adapter-Charger/dp/B00MARDJZ4
This supplies 5V and 2.5A of power. Cheap too.

Sorry for the delay. I use the 2.5 A CanaKit power supply, and the SSD is in a wall powered enclosure meant for 3.5 inch drives. The SSDs that I have seen draw 1.5A to 2A, which is just too much to run off the Raspberry PI, which (if put into high power USB mode) can supply 1.2A.

Actually It was the adapter at the end of my iphone charger. It's the really big and bulky one. It came with my phone so I'm not sure where you can get it. But here is a link to a different one on amazon that has 2.5 amps http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00MARDJZ4?vs=1

1 for me to run pihole, and another for a gift. So maybe 2 of these? https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00MARDJZ4/ref=mp_s_a_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1501853389&sr=8-10&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=raspberry+pi+3&dpPl=1&dpID=51KgJwxynLL&ref=plSrch

> It puts out 2.5a

FTFY

Awesome, though. Thanks for the suggestion!

Link

I have done research and this is the one I am getting. It is intended for the rpi3. It is 2x the price of the generic ones but has stellar reviews. Model #DCAR-RSP-2A5 <-----important https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MARDJZ4/ref=s9_acsd_al_bw_c_x_2_w

> Canakit

100% this. I switched to a Canakit PS when I kept having low voltage issues with my 3B. Haven't had any problems since.


https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MARDJZ4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I think so. I'm using this guy.

The power supply that came with my RPi3 kit caused undervolt issues almost immediately. I replaced it with this power supply and it's worked fine ever since. My advice is, don't ignore undervolt warnings. Also, test the new power supply with a multester before using it to be sure it's outputting to spec.

Yep. I have the 5V 2.5A https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MARDJZ4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It never gets that hot doing anything I have it doing. Cooling I do not believe will resolve the freezing/pausing issues. As I showed above the freezing happens even when it's at 40'C-50'C. :/

Thanks for the help though!

What are you using for your power source? I've had a similar problem, once I switched to a 2.5a power source it went away.

Here's what I use: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MARDJZ4

Update: Was messaged and shown this 2.5A wall charger. It's perfect. :)

That's what I was starting to think. Should I get this one?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MARDJZ4/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A30ZYR2W3VAJ0A

Separately, though the power supply was from CanaKit. I didn't measure the temperature when running N64 games though. It seemed to be doing okay.

To be specific, I got this case, and this motherboard, and this power supply, and this SD card.

The heatsinks are pretty cheap though. $5 for a set of 3.

Get the official one
I have used, overclocked, abused, and gamed with every Pi ever released

I always use the official one and have no power issues

https://www.amazon.com/CanaKit-Raspberry-Supply-Adapter-Listed/dp/B00MARDJZ4

Canakit pie 3 power supply

5V 2.5A. Basically there are very few chargers (that unwitting folks use for pie power cords) that offer 2.5 amps. I was one. Checked around the house and I didn't have 1 that met the spec. outlet to USB chargers were rated for .5A - 1A. My Samsung Galaxy S7 was 2A. Quite surprising. Run at the right spec and issues melt away. Also don't be too far away and try disabling the Pie's wifi. Have fun with 0 lag.

Solely between the two, I would say get the first one (5.25v, 2.4A). The raspi is very sensitive to small fluctuations in power, so I recommend a power supply with a ferrite bead (the thick cylindrical thing on this cable)

Here's the power supply I've been using for the past few months (amazon). If you're not getting a starter kit, I'd recommend this as your power supply.

This $43 kit is a link to a <$50 "bare essentials kit" on amazon. My reddit secret Santa actually sent me this kit last week: no complaints(:

this $50 kit is the same as the above, but includes a case

Raspberry Pi 3

Raspberry Pi Camera Module V2

5V 2.5A Power Supply so you have enough power to run the Pi and camera.

Micro SD card for uploading the Octoprint image and storing files.

Beyond that the only other things you may need (and are recommended) are a mouse, keyboard, a mini HDMI to HDMI cable or adapter, and a monitor to plug it into (TV with HDMI works). These will come in handy if you need to troubleshoot things or want to do other things with your Pi.

EDIT - oh yeah you'll also need to add a micro USB to USB cable or adapter to plug the Pi into the printer's controller.

Hello,

To power it you only need a microusb cord that should have come with any android phone, but a 2A is highly suggested for properly working like this one.

To hook up the raspberry pi model that will fit that case to an older tv you will need a A/V to RCA cable like this, and you will have to change the setting on the pi to default a/v out of the port instead of hdmi.

And finally that case should work fine.

Also I think there is only one SD card port on that model and that is where the OS will go, if you want to watch shows from a non-internet source will have to put the media on a usb drive and plug it into the pi. If you just want to use it to watch stuff I would suggest using this OS which is made to be a media center.

Here is the post for archival purposes:

Author: wisaunders

Content:

>Total newb here. I'd like to try mining just to get some experience with the basics. Not interested in trying to make a fortune but would like to at least get a sitoshi every once in a while. Would the following hardware be sufficient to me get up and join a mining pool?

>GekkoScience Compac USB Stick Bitcoin Miner 8gh/s+ (BM1384) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B016CWBYJK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_s4mOzb79S8JH5

>Raspberry PI 3 Model B 1.2GHz 64-bit quad-core ARMv8 CPU, 1GB RAM https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CD5VC92/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_15mOzbA8TX7VR

>Samsung 32GB 95MB/s (U1) MicroSD EVO Select Memory Card with Adapter (MB-ME32GA/AM) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XWN9Q99/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_t6mOzb4D3AZHN

>CanaKit 5V 2.5A Raspberry Pi 3 Power Supply / Adapter / Charger (UL Listed) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MARDJZ4/ref=cm_sw_r_cpapi.6mOzbAT18HG4

CanaKit 5V 2.5A Raspberry Pi 3 Power Supply / Adapter / Charger (UL Listed) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MARDJZ4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_L-hFzb5RFN9E4


Sorry for the delay in getting back to you, but this is the power adaptor I use. It works great with the case. If you are having a mating issue with the power port, check to make sure that the pi is sitting correctly in the case, and also make sure that the ends of the case line up and aren't pushed too far one way or the other.

Retro games build. Parts totaled around $100.
More images -> http://imgur.com/gallery/g3udGC0


https://retropie.org.uk/
http://retroflag.com/SUPERPi-CASE-U.html


Parts:
RetroFlag SNES case
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07HF5YDB6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_nIKRBbHEVK0SM

Raspberry Pi 3 B+
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BDR5PDW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_YIKRBbWP3DEX0

5v 2.5A Power adaptor for Raspberry Pi
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MARDJZ4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_GLKRBb6J2E775

64GB Samsung Evo Micro SD Card
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XX29S9Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_uOKRBbXMR4DGZ

Sorry. I should have said “extremely low frame rate” instead of “slideshow”.

Power source should be good, I thought. From the wall, I’ve got a CanaKit 5V 2.5A. That plugs into a Powerboost 1000c which powers the pi zero w from a beefy 3.7V, 2500mAh lithium ion battery. That should be enough juice, right?

I even took it apparent and got some fans on it to confirm it wasn’t an over-heating issue. I’m just worried it something wrong with the display. I’m gonna fiddle with those config settings they had me add and I’ll try hdmi_safe. It’s gonna be something obvious, I’m sure. Just need to figure it out.

Thanks again, btw, for all your help. Really, it’s made my life so much easier. The worst part of a project, though, is final assembly and having everything ALMOST working.

As others have mentioned, a micro SD and an adapter are necessary as well. I'd also recommend this power supply for guaranteed 2.5A, though the one you already have may be very similar: https://www.amazon.com/CanaKit-Raspberry-Supply-Adapter-Charger/dp/B00MARDJZ4/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1498077621&sr=8-3&keywords=raspberry+pi+3+power+supply.

What I haven't seen anybody note, though, is that Buffalo offers newer controllers that also happen to be cheaper: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XWD8QQJ/ref=s9_acsd_hps_bw_c_x_2_w.

Raspberry Pi 3, running Openelec, runs pretty flawlessly, and you only need to supply a power supply [(2.5 amp version)] (http://www.amazon.com/CanaKit-Raspberry-Supply-Adapter-Charger/dp/B00MARDJZ4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1458053068&sr=8-1&keywords=raspberry+pi+power+supply), and a microsdhc card. The Raspberry Pi 3 can use your tv remote with HDMI-CEC, so you don't even need a secondary remote control for it.

Tablet charger is probably fine. I'm not aware of an "official" charger. I bought this one though: http://www.amazon.com/CanaKit-Raspberry-Supply-Adapter-Charger/dp/B00MARDJZ4/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1458158418&sr=8-8&keywords=cana+kit

Side note, I spent $50 shipped on a PI3 from Adafruit, $6 on a 8 GB uSD card, $10 on a power supply and $5 on heat sinks. $71 total. I'll need to print an enclosure for it. In hind sight, I wish I had spent $75 on this: http://www.amazon.com/CanaKit-Raspberry-Complete-Starter-Kit/dp/B01C6Q2GSY/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1458158418&sr=8-2&keywords=cana+kit

I've always found the Pi USB port was able to charge it, I use this power supply for my Raspberry Pi, if you aren't able to charge it it is possible that you're Pi isn't getting enough power to power the USB ports. If the cable isn't allowing charging you may consider switching USB cables, I have a cheap Amazon Basics one and it seems to work fine.

retropie-4.2-rpi2_rpi3.img. The power supply I bought has those exact specs

Power adapter I would say get the canakit for the rpi3b+
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MARDJZ4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_H5qMBbF4WKVQQ

I have a case from wish that I spent 2 bucks on. So that’s totally up to you. If you plan to use it heavily I would say get some good fans and beat sinks

iUniker Raspberry Pi 3 B+ Dual Fan with Raspberry Pi Heatsink, Raspberry Pi Fan for Raspberry Pi 3B+/Pi 3 B/Pi 2 B https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07D5WWNH6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_76qMBbD640R1H

Then get a new memory card and download the Retropie image and flash it using something like applepibaker.

Done.

It's what you plug into the wall to supply your device with power... Looks like this... https://www.amazon.com/CanaKit-Raspberry-Supply-Adapter-Charger/dp/B00MARDJZ4/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1493155225&sr=8-3&keywords=raspberry+pi+power+supply

Permanent cable, 5 foot long.

Its this adapter here: https://www.amazon.com/CanaKit-Raspberry-Supply-Adapter-Charger/dp/B00MARDJZ4/

CanaKit 5V 2.5A Raspberry Pi 3 Power Supply / Adapter / Charger (UL Listed) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MARDJZ4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_-jbBybHH4T0MC

I have two of these: https://www.amazon.com/CanaKit-Raspberry-Supply-Adapter-Charger/dp/B00MARDJZ4

Unless there is a specific reason you want a 2b+ i would just buy a pi 3 model B You can current order a pi 3 from [thepihut.com] (https://thepihut.com/collections/raspberry-pi/products/raspberry-pi-3-model-b) for £30.00 and then order your case and what not from them too or buy your case and stuff off amazon. things you will need beside the board

Power

Class 10 SD Card

optional but recommended case

price total: around $55 USD

Edit* changed link to correct SD card for a pi 3

I just buy this one every time. It works fantastic with every Raspberry I've ever built, plus Amazon prime FTW.

The power supply needs to be a micro USB one (sorry I forgot to mention that). So like a phone charger. I find my Samsung phone charger works fine - it is only something like 2.1A so occasionally I get slowdown (a little lightning symbol appears on the screen which means "Low voltage"), so ideally find a 5V micro USB charger at 2.5A for optimal performance. On the USA Amazon site, this one is good: https://www.amazon.com/CanaKit-Raspberry-Supply-Adapter-Charger/dp/B00MARDJZ4 But if you have a micro USB phone charger already, you could just try it and see if it works.

For the control pads, yeah if they work with a PC through USB then it should hopefully work on the Retropie as well. It's pretty much plug and play - when you put a new controller in, it asks you to press some keys and it is all set up automatically.

Don't know which websites in Canada would be good sorry. Where I am from I just went into a local electronics shop and got everything (Raspberry Pis are actually pretty common, you don't even have to go to a dedicated computer shop).

People seem to have success with the Canakit one: https://www.amazon.com/CanaKit-Raspberry-Supply-Adapter-Charger/dp/B00MARDJZ4

You could also go to any gadget/Apple store and buy an iPad charger. For your workload of a Pi and one connected device that will work fine.

Is wattage the only thing I need to worry about then? I was aiming for correct voltage, probably a very novice mistake.

Edit: found this https://www.amazon.com/CanaKit-Raspberry-Supply-Adapter-Charger/dp/B00MARDJZ4/ref=sr_1_14?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1466353372&sr=1-14 could I just hook this up to a dummy battery like in my diagram?(and probably also a potentiometer) It actually seems a lot easier to do it this way.

Yeah, honestly the best way to power a pi is with the official power supply. Add a second power supply for your lights - it's hard to recommend one without knowing how much power you need for your LEDs.

I personally use canakit's power supply which is slightly less expensive. They also sell their items through Amazon.

my Pi 3 was struggling with the "2.5A" power supply that came with my case/heatsink/fan kit; constant low voltage warning when under load. Picked up this one been running great ever since.