Reddit mentions of eBoot Mini MP1584EN DC-DC Buck Converter Adjustable Power Supply Module 24V to 12V 9V 5V 3V (6 Pack)

Sounds like over-draw or short protection. I had the same issue when I tried to drive a signal voltage shifter directly from the RPi's 5v pin. I ended up getting some super-cheap 12v-to-adjustable step-down converters and powering all of my accessories from those via the PSU rather than the RPi itself.

hi, sure! I used a cheap generic "Buck Converter DC DC Step Down" referred in the amazon listing as MP1584EN, that takes max 24V IN (so we should be within the range even on charging phase) and lowers it down to 3.3v needed to run safely the esp8266.

amazon link: https://www.amazon.it/gp/product/B01MQGMOKI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00

​

on my module i have a screw for selecting the desired voltage output, you have to be very accurate, slights movements of this screw cause big changes in output, but with some patience and a multimeter you should be able to set it up for your desired OUT value.

​

as for your LDO attempt: i don't know which model you used but if it gets hot it's either too much voltage IN, hence the lowering process produces too much heat or too much amperage to sustain. Check the datasheets if you remember which model you used

If you're worried about low voltage dropout, you could go to 4S and use a step-down (or just "buck", no boost) converter circuit. That should give you a stable 12V without significant wasted power.

A buck converter only steps voltage down, not up. It also doesn't simply burn excess power due to a higher voltage like a linear regulator does.

These kinds of things would do the job. Just make sure what you use is rated for the current draw you need. Those are only rated for up to 3A.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01MQGMOKI/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1525364823&sr=8-5&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=dc+dc+buck+converter

Put one in between your fan and power source

this one has multiple lines on it. Maybe you could even find a 12v/5v one (so there's no extra stuff floating around) - you have 3 channels on your power supply, so you can run power and ground for each voltage you need (the 24v line runs direct to the supply).


e: another option - you can get two of these, then just use a multimeter to tune them to the voltage you need. As long as your amperage needs don't exceed 3 (most components are well under that).

Personally I would run 3x18650 for this project. When fully charged they are 4.2 volts. 12.6V will probably be fine for the light and hopefully it will keep on running down to 10V when the batteries are mostly dead.

Otherwise you'll want to use 4x18650 and a cheap buck converter to step the 16V down to 12V.

edit: To clarify don't buy any 18650 batteries from amazon. It is too easy for fakes to be commingled into the product stream. I have a list of legit cells stickied at 18650masterrace.

Something like this will work: https://www.amazon.com/DROK-Adjustable-Converter-Step-down-Regulator/dp/B00D3FG5K8/ ($8.40)

Alternatively, if you know the Vf of the LED, you can use a constant voltage switching regulator and set its output to the Vf of the LED. https://www.amazon.com/eBoot-MP1584EN-Converter-Adjustable-Module/dp/B01MQGMOKI/ ($10 for 6)

I had seen this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01MQGMOKI/ref=sspa_mw_detail_5?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Where they specify that damage could occur if used at less than 10% load (which at a design load of 1 amp an esp8266 would be pulling ~3-6% of an amp most of the time). Unfortunately I just realized that neither of these are what I need as I forgot that my source is 24 vac rather than vdc. I could rectify it but am trying to avoid an having circuits upon circuits in my design atm. Thanks anyway for pointing that one out. that's good info for future projects.

Oh! One thing to consider with the Noctua upgrade: you'll need a buck converter to get from 24 V to 12 V. I bought these and configured it like this. People say you can wire two 12V fans in series instead but you really shouldn't. If you wanted to get fancy with it, you could wire up a PWM controller but I just went ahead and cut off the wires that weren't +12V and 0V.

So this thing?

https://www.amazon.com/DROK-Adjustable-Converter-Transformer-Protective/dp/B07JZ2GQJF/ref=sr_1_6?crid=3I3IZD7AZM51S&keywords=buck+converter+24v+to+12v&qid=1555523573&s=gateway&sprefix=buck+converter+24v%2Caps%2C127&sr=8-6

or

https://www.amazon.com/eBoot-MP1584EN-Converter-Adjustable-Module/dp/B01MQGMOKI/ref=sr_1_4?crid=3I3IZD7AZM51S&keywords=buck+converter+24v+to+12v&qid=1555523573&s=gateway&sprefix=buck+converter+24v%2Caps%2C127&sr=8-4

Are there any other new parts I would need to buy to use it? Sorry for the probably dumb questions but like I said I'm very new to all this.

The motors there state they are rated for 1.5-3v, so you are attempting to give them 3 times their maximum rated power. So you have a few options, find a power supply that only gives out 3v OR regulate the voltage from your existing power supply. If you search for "3v buck converter" you will find various devices that can take a higher voltage input and output something lower.

https://www.amazon.com/MP1584EN-DC-DC-Converter-Adjustable-Module/dp/B01MQGMOKI/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=3v+buck+converter&qid=1571414941&sr=8-3
something like this for example should do the job to at least get the motors running at a voltage that wont damage them. You could also tune the voltage lower to get a degree of speed control but it would be very rough.
Overall it depends what you really want to do with the motors.

It seems your original post slipped past my radar, but I work with this technology on a daily basis and would love to provide some help.


I'll get on to your product suggestions shortly, but I do need to address your understanding of power injection. The 50@5v or 100@12v "guidelines" are based strictly on standard-spaced bullet/square ws2811 strings; once you change the length/gauge of wire, this all goes out the window. In order to properly take on a project like this, you MUST have a through understanding of voltage drop. There are formulas (and simple online calculators) that will help you figure out the voltage drop over different gauge's of cable vs length. Power injection is simply a way to combat voltage drop.


The ONLY traditional advantage of 5v pixels was the ability to have individual control over each LED in SMD applications such as strip/rings/panels. There are now 12v individually addressable SMD LEDs such as the WS2815.
I would say the only advantage of 5v pixels at this point would be price, as they are more widely available and less in demand, due to the newer 12v chips. However, in reality, this savings will easily be eaten in more expensive (thicker) wiring and PSUs.


It is a little concerning that you state "i'm running at 12 volts," but you spec a 5v WS2812b ring. If you provide much more than 6v to those rings, you will permanently destroy them. You CAN use a small buck converter though, see below.


Here are my thoughts concerning your choice of LED: they are not the same as in the video. Your rings consist of 12 individually addressable 5v LEDs, while the video seems to use a single addressable source per lantern, most likely a 12v or 24v WS2811 "module" in each, similar to these: http://www.vozop.com/index.php/24v-ws2811-led-pixel-module-12leds-smd5050-rgb-light-20-pack.html


I don't think anything would be wrong with using the ring you spec, and if you have the time to program them neatly, then you could get some neat effects that wouldn't be possible with a single source per lantern. However, the work needed to wire these correct and neat would probably not be worth it in the long run.


Running a 5v system this far apart would require prohibitively thick/expensive wire, so in order to make it work, you will want to distribute power at a higher voltage and drop it down to 5v at each ring. This can be done with a simple and cheap buck converter like this: https://www.amazon.com/eBoot-MP1584EN-Converter-Adjustable-Module/dp/B01MQGMOKI You will need to pick up a voltage meter (multimeter) in order to adjust the pots to the correct voltage, but honestly you shouldn't attempt a project like this without one.


The Tees you spec seem useless for your project, as they do not allow the pixel data to daisy chain between Tees. You will want what's known as a 3,4,3 Tee, like this: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/3-core-T-type-waterproof-splitter-the-middle-is-4core-female-BLACK-color-the-male-connect/1859056875.html You should then get the matching 4-pin pigtails for each ring, and solder them to the +, GND, DI and DO, in accordance with the pin out of the Tees. Don't forget to also pick up matching 3-pin pigtails to connect to your controller and extend distances between Tees.


Your power supply should typically be the last piece of the puzzle. Once you decide on the type of LEDs you are using, you will need to calculate their max current draw in full white, then find a power supply (or multiple) that can provide at least that amount of current. I typically like to spec a PSU that is at least 20-40% more output than required; this keeps things cooler and prolongs the life of the PSU.


Please feel free to ask any questions you may have, I realize this is a lot of information. It does seem like you have a good idea as far controllers and software go.

Ahhhh right okay. So how comes you suggested the 7805 instead of a buck step down? Would this be fine?

Naturally i have thought about markets for this as well. The thing is, these supplies are mainly used for Rolleiflex Lenscontrol S camera control systems which are only used on View Cameras (Professional Cameras) in commercial studios. I think the market is rather limited, but why not try?!


Ill get you the board details tonight when i get access.


Could i use a Constant Current 10V board and feed it with a DC/DC converter to keep the input supply? Potentially even a LED Constant Current Driver? Would that be a viable option?

https://www.amazon.de/Einstellbar-Converter-Step-Down-Modul-Stück/dp/B01MQGMOKI/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1523431336&sr=8-3&keywords=dc%2Fdc+converter

this one + a Constant Current board for example?

Thanks again for your amazing efforts, you already helped tremendously.



EDIT: I just opened another of those, to my suprise its completely different... I attach some pics.

https://imgur.com/a/zLjFn

Searched for the MOSFET's etc. Link List:

• https://www.mouser.de/ProductDetail/AVX/BZ02CA903ZLB?qs=sGAEpiMZZMuDCPMZUZ%252bYl8KRGGE777VRvZBcGAWBuwA%3d
  
  
• https://www.mouser.de/productdetail/texas-instruments/tl780-12kcs?qs=DXdcjUGny5MQtqZC%2F8uCmQ%3D%3D
  
  
• https://www.mouser.de/ProductDetail/ON-Semiconductor-Fairchild/SS34?qs=2ONuHmP%2fXzb3ub11UdFfdQ==
  
  And another i believe says "M9RB L46A", cant find that tho.
  
  With my limited knowledge it appears to me that its exactly doing what you said.
  
  I guess that just adds more info (?)

OK that sounds like a plan, so like one of these little guys:

https://www.amazon.com/eBoot-MP1584EN-Converter-Adjustable-Module/dp/B01MQGMOKI/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1519216216&sr=8-5&keywords=buck+converter

adjust it with a screwdriver and a meter to dial it in and solder my wires in place and I should be good, thanks!