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Reddit mentions of Freud 1/2" (Dia.) Bearing Flush Trim Bit with 1/2" Shank (42-116)

Sentiment score: 1
Reddit mentions: 2

We found 2 Reddit mentions of Freud 1/2" (Dia.) Bearing Flush Trim Bit with 1/2" Shank (42-116). Here are the top ones.

Freud 1/2
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    Features:
  • FLUSH TRIMMING BIT
  • FLUSH TRIMMING BIT
  • FLUSH TRIMMING BIT
  • FLUSH TRIMMING BIT
  • FLUSH TRIMMING BIT
  • 1/2-inch diameter, 2-inch height, 1/2-inch shank
  • Ground carbide with titanium for long life
  • Anti-kickback
  • Computer balanced for vibration free operation speeds over 22,000 RPM
  • Impervious to chemical attack
Specs:
ColorPerma-SHIELD Coating Red
Height1 Inches
Length1 Inches
Number of items1
SizePack of 1
Weight0.27 Pounds
Width1 Inches

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Found 2 comments on Freud 1/2" (Dia.) Bearing Flush Trim Bit with 1/2" Shank (42-116):

u/RECOGNI7E ยท 2 pointsr/DIY

No you stick the laminant to the wood first then cut it to size and cut out the sink.

You will need a flush cut bit This allows you to cut the counter a little oversized, stick it to the wood then trim with the router bit.

I just did my first counter like this and it turned out great. I put oak trim on the side with a half inch round edge.

Here is the counter I did last year in my tiny house

And another

It has held up very well and I really like the look. Both countertops and with the wood, glue and the bit was about $120 CDN. Cheaper and way nicer than you can buy IMO.

If you need more detailed steps just let me know.

u/abnormal_human ยท 1 pointr/woodworking

The roundover bit is the 1/4" one from this set.

The flush trim bit I used is this one.

The flush trimming was hard because it attacked the grain where it was weak. I ended up doing a lot of careful climb cutting to get around the issues, which is no fun. If I were going to produce lots of these, I might give something like this a try. In theory, the shear angle should be a lot friendlier to the wood.

I didn't make the dowel. I usually make my own, but my doweling plate only goes up to 5/8" and since the dowels aren't glued in, getting "close enough" wasn't going to work. I'm sure someday I'll talk myself into a doweling jig like this, but that's a lot to spend on a tool I would basically only use for odd jobs like this.

As it turns out, the commercial dowels I bought aren't that good. The walnut ones are perfect, but the cherry/maple are loose. I have cherry/maple dowel on order from Lee Valley that are supposed to be to tighter tolerances.