Reddit mentions of iArkPower HDMI Audio Extractor Splitter HDMI to HDMI + Optical + RCA L/R Stereo Audio Out Supports 3D, 1080P(50/60HZ)

iArkPower HDMI Audio Extractor... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01I9JG70A?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Instead of a new screen, you can use something like that :

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01I9JG70A/ref=mp_s_a_1_14?ie=UTF8&qid=1506434425&sr=8-14&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=hdmi+audio

(HDMI splitter with different audio outputs)

If you just need to cast audio to a stereo, it is fine. you will need to use something like this to extract the audio.

At this price point, you may consider a bluetooth to audio dongle or a Chromecast audio, depending of your needs. To me the ability to make a multi-room system with the chromecast audio is essential.

This is the one that I bought: HDMI Audio Extractor Splitter, One HDMI Input, One HDMI Output + Optical SPDIF Digital and RCA L/R Analog Audio Out https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01I9JG70A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_-KQOybP61NR4R

I just plug hdmi into box and hdmi from box into tv. Then use the optical cable and put it in my receiver and I get great surround sound!

I use this audio extractor.

As far as a mixer there are lots of options for that. My turtle beach headphones have a two preamps and separate volume controls for game and chat already built in so I don’t need a mixer. The one featured is a high dollar piece. Like $150

What you're asking for is pretty much the definition of an AV receiver.

You could maaaaaybe split it out into a bunch of little boxes, but you're going to wind up with multiple remote controls and the boxes + nest of cables and power supplies is almost certainly going to take up as much space as an AV receiver.

You could have an HDMI switcher with remote and a HDMI audio extractor and uh, a surround sound decoder and then, I guess, a stack of three SMSLs to give you six channels of amplification but you'd still need some kind of volume control... somewhere... and I don't know of any passive volume controls with remotes.

I have to admit: that would actually look like some awesome mad scientist shit.

You'd need an HDMI audio splitter/extractor. They're not exactly cheap.

https://www.amazon.com/Extractor-Splitter-Output-Optical-Digital/dp/B01I9JG70A

But cheaper than a new TV. Keep in mind I've no personal experience with them.

https://www.amazon.com/Extractor-Splitter-Output-Optical-Digital/dp/B01I9JG70A/ref=pd_lpo_23_tr_t_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=B18CACPPK2XTXY03NDFQ

First, try a different HDMI cable. Also be sure you're using HDMI port 1 or 2 on the TV, per your manual those are HDCP 2.2.

Next, I checked out your receiver's manual and this was interesting, maybe play with this or similar A/V HDMI or "passthru" settings:

"When the HDMI option in Setting the Audio options on page 25 is set to THRU, the sound will be heard through your TV, not from this receiver."

If your receiver doesn't end up liking the PC HDMI video signal and refuses to pass along to the TV (my old Sony receiver was like this), you could instead grab an internal or external PC sound card that allows you to run an optical cable from PC to receiver to get digital surround sound.

I can personally recommend this internal one:

https://www.amazon.com/Creative-Blaster-Audigy-Performance-Headphone/dp/B00EO6X7PG

Here's others from Creative brand - check prices vs Amazon, New Egg, Google Shopping, etc...and check Amazon price history on any model using camelcamelcamel.com before you buy...be sure it has an Optical Audio Out:

https://us.creative.com/p/sound-cards

If these are too expensive you can go cheaper from Amazon's top 100 lists (results may vary):

https://www.amazon.com/Best-Sellers-Electronics-Computer-Internal-Sound-Cards/zgbs/electronics/284823

https://www.amazon.com/Best-Sellers-Electronics-External-Sound-Cards/zgbs/electronics/3015427011

Hope this helps, good luck!!! :D

EDIT:

1. If you grab a sound card w/optical but need to use the coaxial audio input on your receiver instead of optical, you'll have to convert the output...an example device to do this:
   
   https://www.amazon.com/C2G-40019-Optical-Coaxial-Converter/dp/B0002GV876
   
   
2. You could avoid a sound card altogether and get a device that strips the audio out of the HDMI cable going from PC to receiver. Something like this...but FYI there's about a billion models of these on Amazon so browse for good ratings and lots of reviews...some also split the audio to coaxial rather than optical as mentioned above...and you may need "HDCP 2.2" which supports 4K/HDR.
   
   Here's a top selling one:
   
   https://www.amazon.com/Extractor-Splitter-Output-Optical-Digital/dp/B01I9JG70A
   
   Here's a 4K/HDR/HDCP 2.2 one:
   
   https://www.amazon.com/ViewHD-NEWEST-Extractor-Support-18Gpbs/dp/B06XRT9VGL
   
   EDIT 2: Sorry for the long reply. Too much coffee this AM. :D

I own the legendary Logitech Z-5500 5.1 system. I had used this audio extractor previously to run audio into the Logitech 5.1. It worked great except the rear surround channels were weak. I had to up their volume. I recently upgraded my TV to a Sony XBR-43X800D which actually outputs multi channel on the optical out so I no longer need the iArkPower HDMI audio Extractor. I am then able to simply put the Switch HDMI directly to the TV and the optical out from the Sony TV will feed it directly to the Logitech 5.1 system. I have to then set the TV to have full audio to come out of the optical connection. You may also have to change audio settings on the Switch itself in the system settings. Now, this works for me because the Logitech Z-5500 or the Z906 can decode Dolby Surround on the unit itself. This will probably not work on other logitech sound system speakers. It sounds like your TV actually outputs the actual sound instead of just two channels on the optical out. So if you got the Z-5500 or the Z906 system, the set will run sound from the Switch in Surround or Dolby Digital.

There is a way to have the sound decoded through optical if you don't have either of these speakers. It is an Astro headphone amp. I have this hooked on my PC and routed to the same Z-5500 speakers. It doesn't exactly decode the audio to the best quality, but you're getting actual processed surround. This is my bedroom setup, so it doesn't have to be uncompressed Linear PCM audio. bitstream compressed surround works very well and been used since the DVD days. Even audiophiles had expensive receivers that DID NOT have HDMI connectors like the Denon AVR4802R. But many people won't really be able to tell the difference between bitstream and L PCM audio unless you're an audiophile who has to have the highest quality audio.

It shouldn't matter how much the quality of the sound comes into the Logitech Speakers. You won't get the uncompressed sound to come out of TVs' optical out. As someone mentioned, most TVs can't output uncompressed audio through the optical out. But it will still come out bitstreamed with the DTS, dolby digital or surround audio. It just has to be decoded. This is sound that is still going to be multiple levels better than TV speakers or dual speaker setups. Nintendo has not always been good with providing DTS or Dolby Digital on their games. You will only hear this on Sony consoles and their games. Same for Xbox. It would be recommended to have something like an audio home theater receiver to properly decode and run the high quality audio through the latest HDMI versions for Sony and Xbox consoles.

If you want to run your Logitech with the best possible sound, do what I mentioned above but also replace the two front speakers with REAL bookshelf speakers (can be small like 3.5" woofers) that also include tweeters. Those PC speakers run great with powerful bass (assuming you got the Z5500 or the Z906) but have little range because they don't have tweeters for voice. I switched my two fronts with Energy small bookshelves. the speaker connections are the same as real speakers and are not those cheap rca hookups. If you don't own one of the two speaker systems I mentioned, you could get yourself an Astro mixamp to decode the surround or Dolby Digital.

PS4 slim doesn't have an optical audio output unlike the older PS4 and the newer PS4 pro. So looks like I have only the second option.

Any small size and not expensive recommendation? For example, would this be enough? But it has L and R outputs seperately, I should be able to use the headphones with it too I guess.

It was easy enough to do! I'm sure your manager would know. If not you can message me. We used a splitter that was hdmi in and hdmi/RCA out so we were able to get the hdmi attached to the projector for video and the RCA cables attached to our audio rack.

Edit: here is the splitter we used:
https://www.amazon.com/Extractor-Splitter-Output-Optical-Digital/dp/B01I9JG70A/

Your setup could be far different from ours, but good luck!

Did you mean SK3D?

I think one of these would work

Not sure if there's an easier, more direct way, but one of these or similar would probably do the trick.

No particular weight should be given to my selection of this one - it just happened to come up high in the search list with a high star rating... I don't own it myself and can't give a personal review.

Not sure why they recommend that one since it seems to only output 2 ch stereo audio. I just bought this last week for a different reason and it works great. There's also 4 way splitters to hook up all your HDMI devices.

I can actually help with that. You will need one of these.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01I9JG70A/

You can try something like this. Then you can get whichever unit you want. I recommend the Shield.

Buy [this](HDMI Audio Extractor Splitter, One HDMI Input to HDMI Output + Optical SPDIF and RCA L/R Audio Out https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01I9JG70A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_DKLZzb7M8448H).

I personally do not know if this work but technically it should. Might need another hdmi cable if you don't have one to go from the converter box to your monitor.

Then buy [this](C&E 30S1-01260 2 x RCA Male, 1 x 3.5mm Stereo Female, Y-Cable 6-Inch Gold Plated Connector https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000I23TTE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_5MLZzbS8E0JJG). Then you should be able to plug in your headset.

I think you're out of luck on the dock itself, but something like this may be able to help you

Are you wanting to plug the Switch into your PC to capture the video somehow, or do you just want to play on your monitor?

The monitor should work fine in place of a TV -- just plug the HDMI cable into it like you would any other display. HDMI can pass audio too, so if your monitor has built-in speakers, it should work seamlessly. If you want to use separate external speakers, you'd need something like this to split out the audio and be able to plug the speakers in.

If you're actually talking about plugging the Switch into your PC, that would require an HDMI input on the PC which isn't all that common. They're mostly used for capture cards. If you're wanting to stream your gameplay or something, it would probably work, but I'm not sure exactly what equipment you'd need.

You need this. Before you get upset remember ever version except PC needed a slight workaround for audio.
Audio signal needs to be converted from digital to eliminate lag.

I don't want to promote something, but in my other post, I mean things like this product:

https://www.amazon.com/Extractor-Splitter-Output-Optical-Digital/dp/B01I9JG70A/ref=sr_1_7?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1488136542&sr=1-7&keywords=audio+extractor&refinements=p_72%3A1248879011

This one should work if you have 1080P and a SPIDF surround system. Not sure how it will handle 2/4k. You can find other ones. I'm coughing up a little more money for a future proofed one.

https://www.amazon.com/iArkPower-Extractor-Splitter-Optical-Supports/dp/B01I9JG70A

This should do the work, there might be other cheaper options available but this had decent reviews.

I am having trouble finding sound bars with two hdmi ports in my budget, a lot of them have only one but im not sure how id get video to my tv with just one... would something like this work? https://www.amazon.com/iArkPower-Extractor-Splitter-Optical-Supports/dp/B01I9JG70A/ref=sr_1_14?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1538406234&sr=1-14&keywords=hdmi+sound+bar

Ah damn that's unfortunate. Hmm well you could try an aux cable from the controller like was suggested, but I have a feeling this would not be lossless audio. I'm not sure though.

To get audio from the HDMI to an Audio Interface, I think you'd need something like this: https://www.amazon.com/iArkPower-Extractor-Splitter-Optical-Supports/dp/B01I9JG70A

The PS4 HDMI would go into the HDMI-in port on that device. Then you'd have another HDMI cable going from the HDMI-out port on the device, to your monitor/tv. And you could use either the optical slot (labeled SPDIF on that product), or the L/R slots (I think the optical would be simpler/more straightforward) to go from the device to your Audio Interface.

That should be lossless - just make sure in the PS4 settings that it's set to output PCM, as was pointed out below.

Buy this and this. The first device will take HDMI in and let you output through HDMI back to the TV and RCA where you will hook up the second device to pair BT headphones to.

DVI is compatible with HDMI and provides the same quality, much better than VGA. Just need a cheap adapter. DVI won't carry audio, BUT there are some specialized adapters that split the audio and video out of HDMI and give you an audio port. https://www.amazon.com/iArk-Extractor-Splitter-Optical-Toslink/dp/B01I9JG70A

Not that I know of...without an audio extractor or similar.

https://www.amazon.com/iArkPower-Extractor-Splitter-Optical-Supports/dp/B01I9JG70A

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I could be wrong, I am sure someone will speak up if there is a better solution.

I bought an HDMI audio splitter. HDMI goes into the splitter, HDMI-out/audio-out comes out the other side. Then you just plug that audio-out into your audio-in on your PC and you're good to go.