Reddit mentions of IRWIN VISE-GRIP Wire Stripping Tool / Wire Cutter, 8-Inch (2078309)

Here's a list and example found on amazon for all the major parts. I'll also include a wiring diagram at the end.

Solar Panel $169.99 - 100W Flexible & Thin

Solar Cable $18.99 - 20ft with male and female heads (cut in half for + & -)

[Charge Controller]
(https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B019QSX0CG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) $34.99 - 30A gives you room to add more panels

Battery $160 - 100Ah AGM will provide enough power depending on fridge but requires no maintenance

Fuse Panel $35 - 6 circuits with negative and cover

12V Sockets $6 - Get some of these for plugging in appliances and phones. You can buy 12V adapters for almost any electronic besides most kitchen appliances.

Pick up some 10 gauge stranded wire from your local hardware store (home depot) to wire the battery and fuse panel to the charge controller. You shouldn't need much since you want the battery as close as possible to the controller. You can buy smaller wire (16 or 18 guage) for wiring outlets/appliances to the fuse panel. 50ft of that should be fine unless you want multiple outlets on the other side of the van.

You'll also need some ATC blade fuses for your fuse panel. You can buy these at a local auto parts store pretty cheap. 15 amps should be enough than anything you'll be pulling.

To connect the wire ends to the battery and fuse panel you will need these wire terminals for the corresponding wire guages you are using. Along with these female terminals to connect to the 12V sockets. All of these can be found at your local auto parts store for cheap sometimes all together in a kit.

You'll also want a pair of wire strippers/crimper for wiring.

This is the best wiring diagram I can find. Most are so overcomplicated. This diagram does not show the fuse panel but you can see the empty slots on the far right of the charge controller where you insert the wiring for that, it's called the "load." This diagram also shows an inverter which is something I didn't go into because you will only need that if you HAVE to run a 110V appliance. I know you mentioned a kettle but maybe you could just install a gas stove in your van and use that to heat water? That's what we use :) Installing the inverter should be pretty straight forward though if you need it but remember you will waste energy going from 12v to 110v so 12v is more efficient.

Hope this can help you (and maybe others) in some way. I plan on making a more in depth version of this guide in the near future along with a video but finding the time has been difficult! Let me know any more questions you have :D

The quickest easiest fix for a novice would be to just cut the connector out and butt connect it all back together.

Any auto parts store should have a tool similar to this:

https://www.amazon.com/VISE-GRIP-Multi-Tool-Stripper-Crimper-2078309/dp/B000JNNWQ2

and butt connectors

youtube video

https://youtu.be/r_XrBeCR6og


The correct way would be to get a pigtail harness or to pop those pins out of the connector and solder heat shrink them back and then put the connector back together.

No worries, buddy. Happy to help. You don't need to worry about a preamp just yet, as your turntable has one built in. Just make sure you have the selector switch on the back of the unit set to "line" rather than "phono" and you're all set. As for connecting the speakers to the receiver, I managed to find a pic of the rear connections on the U310. It looks like they use spring clips to connect, so you're going to have to use bare wire.

First thing you'll need is a spool of speaker wire. I've had good luck with the Amazon Basics stuff, and it's about as cheap as decent wire gets. You'll need to strip a bit of the jacket off of each wire on each end. I do it by hand, but you might want to try a wire stripper if you're not comfortable free-handing things. Once you've exposed the bare wire, simply give each side a quick twist to secure them into separate threads and insert each thread into the back of the speaker, depressing the spring clip to allow the wire to fit into the hole and releasing it to bite down on the wire. As for the back of the amp, the procedure's the same if it has spring clips. If it has binding posts like the SMSL I linked earlier, you'll want to unscrew them a bit, wrap the bare wire around the exposed post, and tighten the post heads back down to create a nice, tight seal.

One word of warning on the off chance you've never done anything like this before. Remember to connect your positive (red) terminals on your speakers to your positive terminals on your amp, and your negative (black) to negative. The speaker wire makes that pretty easy, as one channel is marked with a little white line so you'll always know what's going where. Additionally, make sure your amp's left output is wired to your left speaker and the right to the right. Simple stuff, but it's easy to miss if this is your first time.

This is what black electrical tape (or, worst case, wire cutters) are for.

Bageeka is right it's pretty easy. Cut the plastic clips off both ends, strip the wire about a 1/4 inch, stick the two ends into the butt connector, crimp(pinch) the wire in place, and apply heat.

Butt connector:
Polyolefin Heat Shrink Butt Connector, 22-18 Gauge, Red Waterproof Crimping Terminal - Bag of 25 PCS https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MRBZ6IK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_mRgtzbW7GRB28

You'll probably want a wire stripper/crimper as well:
IRWIN VISE-GRIP Multi-Tool Wire Stripper/Crimper/Cutter, 2078309 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000JNNWQ2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_k1gtzbWVC4V7G

Do you have a volt meter by chance?

Get yourself a decent crimping tool. An assortment of terminals is a good start, too.

https://www.amazon.com/VISE-GRIP-Multi-Tool-Stripper-Crimper-2078309/dp/B000JNNWQ2/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1469334380&sr=8-4&keywords=crimping+tool

When you make a crimp, test it mechanically by pulling the wire. It should not move.

Some wire strippers also have a hole to cut screws, I bet you have one somewhere.

Something like this.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000JNNWQ2/ref=zg_bs_553392_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=X2QBJMEQ2JM1NKK3KSSX

What about this for a more affordae option. IRWIN Tools VISE-GRIP Multi Tool Stripper, Cutter and Crimper, 8-inch (2078309) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000JNNWQ2/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_P15Mub1CA7W5K

Sub - BIC F12 or save some money and go with this Dayton sub 1200

Amp- If you want a mini amp go with this SMSL SA50 or get a stereo reciever like this Sony STRDH130. I like the receiver because of the integrated tuner, remote and tone controls. If you have room for it it's the way to go.

Wire- You'll need some speaker wire and a stripping tool. Either get some electrical pliers or an automatic stripper. I would go with the pliers as you can strip but also crimp on connectors ect. However, if you're not going to do more electrical work just go for the auto strippers.

Wire strippers

• http://www.amazon.com/Irwin-Industrial-Tools-2078309-Stripper/dp/B000JNNWQ2/ref=lp_553398_1_2?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1414522903&sr=1-2
  
  Cheap multimeter
  
  
• http://www.amazon.com/Etekcity-Digital-Voltmeter-Ohmmeter-Multimeter/dp/B00B7CS3UY/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1414522961&sr=1-1&keywords=multimeter
  
  Outlet tester w/GFCI
  
  
• http://www.amazon.com/Sperry-Instruments-GFI6302-Outlet-Tester/dp/B000RUL2UU/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1414522993&sr=1-1&keywords=outlet+tester
  
  Heat shrink tubing
  
  
• http://www.amazon.com/b?node=700782011
  
  Cheap work light
  
  
• http://www.amazon.com/Bayco-SL-1002-Halogen-Project-Light/dp/B000FW7UH4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1414523082&sr=8-1&keywords=work+light
  
  A massive supply of various writing tools -- sharpies, grease pencils, carpenter's pencils.
  
  Should be able to pick all that up for <$100 and it'll make your life easier.
  

Everything will need to be grounded or it will not operate. The easiest way to do this is to use a fusebox as you mentioned. The number of items you'll want to power should determine the number of terminals you'll need. Connect your Anderson Powerpole terminals to their corresponding spots on the Blue Sea Systems fuse box (12 terminals with negative because you can always not use some, but you can't add any on the 6 terminal model).

https://www.amazon.com/Goal-Zero-Terminal-Connector-Cable/dp/B00URTHQTC/ref=sr_1_1?s=lawn-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1496442293&sr=1-1&keywords=yeti+1250+terminal+ring

https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Sea-Systems-Blade-Block/dp/B001P6FTHC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1496442487&sr=8-1&keywords=blue+sea+fuse+box+12

Use a disconnect switch below and a ring connector cable to make sure you don't draw any power when not intended. It will go between your positive leads.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B011EYWMDS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/Camco-47453-4-Gauge-Battery-Assembly/dp/B00JGJGCV2/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1496442659&sr=8-9&keywords=4+awg+cable

For the wiring to indidual 12v sources I use copper-clad aluminum because I'm cheap and use 12 gauge (non-awg because it's cheaper and only slightly smaller in gauge diameter) and it hasn't given me any problems because for the price I go a bit bigger than I might need.

https://www.amazon.com/PRIMARY-POWER-GROUND-100FT-ROLLS/dp/B00OU0IIFU/ref=sr_1_6?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1496442827&sr=1-6&keywords=12+gauge+wire

For the fridge though you may want to go to 10 gauge.

https://www.amazon.com/GAUGE-GROUND-PRIMARY-STRANDED-COPPER/dp/B01C7O8166/ref=sr_1_6?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1496442902&sr=1-6&keywords=10+gauge+wire.

Look at the 12v chart below and make sure you're within the range for the length of wire you want to run which I can't imagine you wont be since everything you're describing is super low amp.

https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/originals/57/22/80/57228076ef240ed796b328a7d6387eac.jpg

Then to connect the equipment to power you can either solder the wires together or use these below to crimp them (crimping video below that). You're wire stripping pliers should have a crimping portion on them already. if not buy the ones in the 4th link.

https://www.amazon.com/Hilitchi-Insulated-Terminals-Electrical-Connectors/dp/B01D8HIQ2K/ref=sr_1_4?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1496443951&sr=1-4&keywords=12-10+gauge+wire+connectors

https://www.amazon.com/Glarks-Electrical-Insulated-Terminals-Connectors/dp/B01E7SY49I/ref=sr_1_11?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1496444024&sr=1-11&keywords=12-10+gauge+wire+connectors

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Svja8zEcKNQ&t=9s

https://www.amazon.com/VISE-GRIP-Multi-Tool-Stripper-Crimper-2078309/dp/B000JNNWQ2/ref=sr_1_cc_2?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1496443370&sr=1-2-catcorr&keywords=wire+stripping+pliers+irwin

You'll then use the terminal rings from the link above (pretty sure that's the correct size ring) to connect the end of those wires to the fuse box on the negative and positive sides. Fuse based on the amps you'll be drawing. Since I think someone somewhere will complain that this is expensive and there are cheaper ways to do it, I set you up on the "new everything" route since I don't think you'll have any of these things and if you're getting a goal zero I don't think price is a limiting factor. Unless you already have a lot of experience with wiring this is the basic version with everything you'll need pre-made as much as possible.

NO. See the crimp section on these below the pivot point? Marked with blue yellow and red?

https://www.amazon.com/VISE-GRIP-Multi-Tool-Stripper-Crimper-2078309/dp/B000JNNWQ2/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1509811354&sr=8-7&keywords=crimp+tool&dpID=31uY1TVTmaL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

Agreed ... but I use large wire, just because I tend to break a few strands when stripping ... but my 12 gauge short runs are overkill.

I highly recommend staying away from cheap wire-stripping tools. I got this wire stripping tool: http://amzn.com/B000JNNWQ2 and it worked much better than my cheaper one (virtually no broken strands, etc.)

Some basic things to get:
>Wire crimper/stripper

>Fish tape

>Drywall or keyhole saw

Amazon has good prices on tools, boxes, and connection panels.

Alright, you and /u/PioneerStandard have convinced me.

Would you mind helping me figure out which would work best?

Would a ratcheting one like this be best despite the cost? https://www.amazon.ca/Titan-11477-Ratcheting-Terminal-Crimper/dp/B0069TRKJ0

Or would a nice/decent wire stripper/cutter/crimper like this work alright? https://www.amazon.ca/Gardner-Bender-GS-366-Multi-Purpose-Crimp/dp/B00164C0KW

Also, would a more "plier-type" tool work as well? https://www.amazon.ca/Irwin-Industrial-2078309-Stripper-ProTouch/dp/B000JNNWQ2

Thanks by the way.

You need a wire stripper. Its pretty easy. First you cut to desired length then you strip about an inch off the ends revealing the copper inside.

IRWIN VISE-GRIP Wire Stripping Tool / Wire Cutter, 8-Inch (2078309) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000JNNWQ2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_PoP1DbR8G6GVX

Yup, you need a receiver.

Oddly enough, those are the plates for a 7.1 system... so "four" connectors probably aren't connected to anything.

If you look, each Red/Black pair should go to a speaker. Figuring out which speaker is which will be fun!

So, a shopping list just to get you started.

• Speaker Wire
  
• Banana Plugs
  
• If the bottom right/white connector is hooked in the rear, you'll want a Coax too
  
• Wire Cutters/Strippers (if you don't have similar)
  
• A cheap receiver to get you started on the path
  
• HDMI Cable
  
  All in, you're looking about $200, but keep in mind this is working on the assumption that the house has a subwoofer built-in somewhere... if it doesn't you'll be sorely lacking in bass, and that'll add another $100 or so.
  
  What you would do is take the speaker wire, cut it into 10 roughly equal lengths (two wires per speaker, five speakers), put the banana plugs on (not "required", but they do make life simpler), and use the receiver to identify which plug goes to which speaker. The faceplate you (presumably) took off SHOULD have them labeled.
  
  Once you have them identified, plug the wires into the back of the receiver, matching up the spots. Plug your PS4 into the Receiver, the Receiver into the Television, and go to town.
  
  Slightly more involved, but that should at least get you making noise. ;)
  

I installed this in my 01 Corolla a couple weeks ago. It fits in the stock mounting bracket and has AUX, BT and USB. All you will need to install it is this wiring harness, a set of crimp caps and a wire stripper/crimp tool.

The hardest part is wiring the new head unit to the wiring harness. The actual installation should take 10 minutes.

If you don't have the the proper tools, installing this can be a pain, you need screwdrivers, a metric socket set if you have a modern vehicle, wire stripper and crimper something like this:

https://smile.amazon.com/VISE-GRIP-Multi-Tool-Stripper-Crimper-2078309/dp/B000JNNWQ2

you should have a multimeter but a simple circuit tester would also work for this, BTW I was sent a free circuit tester with my Android mirror that looks something like this:

https://smile.amazon.com/ATD-5513-Heavy-Duty-Circuit-Tester/dp/B000M5ZWBA

if you don't know how to use the multimeter or circuit tester have a look on Youtube for instructional videos, you also need some sort of automotive trim
clip removal kit, like this:

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B009QLBDSW

I was using my hands to remove most of the plastic trim but I kept breaking the plastic clips, what I do now is firmly but gently pry the plastic trim away with my hands and when I feel more or stronger resistance I stop, then use the clip removal kit to pry that tough clip lose, the clip removal kit also helps when running wires under the plastic trim without removing the plastic trim, and when working around the edge of the headliner, BTW if you break some trim clips most of them can be found on Amazon or eBay.

Some vehicles also need a Torx screwdriver/bit/socket set, mine did, I needed a Torx screwdriver set and a Torx socket set, you may not need them for other vehicles but GM/Chevy seems to use them a lot.

When I installed the wires for the Android mirror, I started at the fuse box thats in the dash, and worked up to the Android mirror, on my Chevy I ran the GPS,main wire, backup camera wire, up the passenger side door frame trim, and ran the backup camera wire along the headliner trim to the back, but I think on most cars the backup camera wire should go along the floor under the carpet trim.

You need to have to two power wires connected, (Battery +) that always has power, and (Ignition) that only has power when your key is in ACC or when the motor is running, thats were the multimeter and circuit tester come in handy, the multimeter is also helpful in finding a good ground for the ground wire that needs to be connected.

I had to be careful working around the door trim area because of the Airbags, you might want to disconnect your battery and let it set for few minutes before working around any Airbag stuff, the service manual for my Chevy says with the ignition off, disconnect the negative battery cable and wait 1 minute.

The Chinese voice can be disabled or changed when you have root, but sadly even when you change the voice it still talks in a broken English.