Reddit mentions of SRAM Chainring Yaw (110x50T), Silver

The 34 tooth chainring looks to be correct for your bike, but you need "Hidden Bolt" chainrings for the newer Force 22 crankset. See here:

https://wickwerks.com/faq/rings-4-sram-red-force-crank/

This is the correct chainring for your application:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Sram-Road-Hidden-Non-Hidden-Aluminium/dp/B00JYD8GF0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1493188228&sr=8-1&keywords=11.6218.016.001

(Ouch.)

It's possible there are other less expensive options, such as WickWerks chainrings.

You should adjust the front derailleur, yes. It'll help the bike shift, and will reduce the chance of dropping the chain.

The outer chainring can actually be pretty complex; a lot of work goes into designing the ramp pins and chain teeth so that the front mech can pull the chain onto the larger ring. The cost always surprises me.

BTW, this is part of the reason you shouldn't shift under load, especially in the front. During a shift to the big ring, the ramp pins are under a lot of stress. It's easy to sheer off the pins and break teeth. Once that happens the bike won't shift very well.

While you could remove a link to shorten your chain, I'd strongly encourage you to replace it. An old chain can wear down new cogs pretty quickly. If you're spending £100 on a new chainring, it makes sense to replace the chain as well.

You should also double check the B-tension adjustment screw on your rear derailleur. This screw helps control how far the rear pulleys run from the cogs. They can help fit larger cassettes, and can help shifting into the smaller rings.