Reddit mentions of Thomas & Betts SC100RR Carlon Single Gang Low Voltage Box

Wire conduit. If you have an attic you can access running cable through the wall and up into the attic then back down the other side to rear speakers is easy enough with fish tape/poles, a drill, and a drywall saw. Use a gang ring and wall plate to cover the entry and exit holes of the wires.

With no attic you have to run the wire through the wall itself all the way to the rear speakers which is a pain in the ass because you have to drill through every stud. I definitely do not recommend that route. If all else fails with the wife forgo the rear speakers entirely and just get a REALLY nice 3.1 setup. Don't underestimate how good those can be.

You don't necessarily need a box, but it's definitely worth terminating to a proper keystone jack and wallplate. Wallplates come in 2, 4, and 6 port versions, so you can get all your runs coming out a single-gang plate. Having wires just sticking out of your wall is definitely ugly, and may or may not violate your local code.

Instead of actual boxes, you can use old-work low voltage brackets like this to mount your wallplates. I actually prefer these, since they give you lots of in-wall access if you ever need to fish another cable through. I've been using the new-work version as I've been renovating my house and pulling ethernet to each room while I have the sheetrock down.

What is above/below you? Attic? Unfinished basement?

If it is an attic, you can drop a line down into the wall and do it professionally. Just need fish tape, a couple gang boxes, some keystone jacks, and wall plates. All can be had for <$50

Unfinished basement, same thing, drill down, fish down (easier because gravity) and look for where the cat5 comes out in the basement, if possible use any existing conduits for previously ran LV wiring. Then go to modem location, fish down with your fish wire, and find it in the basement. Tie down your cat5 and fish it through. Ezpz

Also, avoid powerline adapters. Those things are hot garbage, and should only be used when all other options have been exhausted. As a tech, I have seen so many repair tickets for those peices of garbage alone. Run cat5, buy a wifi dongle & router that supports dual band, but do not use powerline again.

toolless keystone jack 2-pk

keystone wallplate 5-pk

cat5

LV gang box

To expand on the recommendations to just add the propper wall plates so they blend in and look correct which is also what I would do for these.

THis is what the wall plates will look like there are other options, but this should give you an idea
https://www.amazon.com/iMBAPrice-Premium-Connector-Banana-Plate/dp/B00GWOMMA4/

low voltage brackets look like this, you can get away with the plates screwed right into the wall but these are the "propper way"

https://www.amazon.com/Thomas-Betts-SC100RR-Carlon-Voltage/dp/B000W09PQI/

There is most likely a bunch all coming out where the receiver was. They have larger plates that will fit that depending on how many speakers they had setup.

I didn't see anyone else mention them, but since this is low voltage, you don't even need a box at all. You can use nothing more than a mud ring, many of which will secure just through the drywall itself. Personally I prefer the metal versions, but they're not as widely available in single units. Why hassle with a box at all when you don't need one?

You also may want to look at the "fish sticks" which are flexible rods. I like the ones with 18" sections, myself. Start at the bottom and you have more control than a tape in most cases. Home Depot has versions of these as well, OP.

Note that the rods aren't a complete replacement for a tape. They're simply a different tool that sometimes does the job better in certain situations.

You can do it that way, but it isn't recommended. Putting on your own male networking connectors has become bad form, sort of, over the last few years. They just aren't very reliable when using solid conductor cable and they are extremely difficult to install on stranded cable without the $50k machine they use in the factory... Someday your home terminated cable will fail for no apparent reason and it will ruin your life.

If I were doing it, I would run the cable and put a box in the wall. The cable is fine. I would pickup some old work low voltage boxes, and install a wall plate and use some keystone jacks and whatever jumpers you like.

If you are open to buying somewhere other than monoprice, I really like the Cable Matters keystone jacks nowadays. I like this punch tool but this knockoff works ok as well and if you are just doing a few than you could probably get away with the plastic thing that comes with each keystone jack... they eventually will work it might just take longer and you might have to dick with it a bit.

It looks like the stuff you have picked out will work, but it just might not be super reliable or aesthetically pleasing. Plus, what do you do if you move something? Now you just have a hole in the wall with some wires flopping around... If you put jacks on the wall they just blend in with all the other jacks on the wall if you remove the jumpers...

I have been really pleased with everything from Cable Matters lately. We terminated 1200 cables for a huge IP HD video system a few weeks ago using their stuff and only had 2 or 3 that had to be repunched and we had one cable run that didn't check and that was probably our fault pulling too hard and getting a kink in it. It's pretty reasonably priced all things considered.

Also, the cable you have picked out is great. It's pure copper and not copper clad aluminum (CCA). Never use CCA it's absolute garbage and won't ever work for anything. CCA will ruin your life.

EDIT: I just wanted to correct myself, we have been buying Honeywell Genesis cat6 cable lately... not monoprice. We have been getting a better deal through ADI global on the Honeywell stuff and it is very nice cable. The reel in a box is so much better than the usual mess... no more kinks so you don't need to pay someone $25 an hour to babysit some boxes and pay out cable and yell "stop!" over the radio all day when they have to sort a kink...

Typically you don't run low-voltage lines in the same box as high-voltage lines. It's easy enough to just use something like this ( http://www.amazon.com/Thomas-Betts-SC100RR-Carlon-Voltage/dp/B000W09PQI/ref=pd_sim_e_1?ie=UTF8&refRID=09GZVBHWHJ37VB90SY9Y ) to mount your HDMI wall plate to.

You can use brush plates to pass the cable directly through the wall, without the extra jacks. Use a low voltage box to mount them to the wall.

You can go through the ceiling of a basement (finished, drop ceiling) or along the top of a basement (unfinished) or along the bottom of an attic. I also have a wire snake to pull them through the walls to go up and down. So you cut a hole for the plate, then either drop the cable snake down the wall from the attic to the hole or from the basement to the hole and tape the end of the cable on and pull it through. Then pull it to wherever your [punchdown panel]/[switch]/[router] is and either make an end and plug it in or punch it in to your punchdown panel. On the other end you punch down the jack and screw it in and you're set.

Supplies:
Cat5e or Cat6 cable
Keystone Jack
Wallplate
Low Voltage electric box
RJ45 Ends

If you are interested, I can write a more detailed guide and a tools/optional supplies list later.

I'd suggest keeping the face plates and keystones the same brand. I used 2 different brands and they didn't fit just right, granted the keystone idea is pretty standardized, it still wasn't perfect... The other part you'll want to grab is something to help hold the outlet on the wall: https://smile.amazon.com/Thomas-Betts-SC100RR-Carlon-Voltage/dp/B000W09PQI

When it comes to pulling the cable, if you want to do the cables the way a pro would, look at buying a spool or CAT6 in the walls: https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=8103 and terminate it with a real CAT6 punch down jack: https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=5384. Then use the cables you linked to go from the wall to router/computer/device. Watch some YouTube videos and take your time and you shouldn't have a hard time terminating the cables. With network cables there is solid and stranded, solid is for cable that isn't going to move (like in the walls). While stranded is for the areas that need to be more flexible, like near a computer where it might be moved occasionally.

Like everyone else, 2 wires is a good call.

For the "cabinet" try to go more open, like a small shelf you can sit stuff on, especially when you are concerned about heat and/or air flow, why not just open it up?

> Agreed on the wiring part, its my plaster skills cleaning up after that suck :)

Use these which can be found at most hardware stores. Run the wires, and then use those to attach the faceplate. That means you are only cutting the hole big enough to mount that, and then tighten it down. Little to no repair work after if you are careful. Its how I wired my entire house, plaster walls and all. Cutting/drilling through the plaster/lathe walls was a bitch and a half, but it still turned out good.

And don't forget these things: https://www.amazon.com/Thomas-Betts-SC100RR-Carlon-Voltage/dp/B000W09PQI/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1478199723&sr=8-1&keywords=old+work+low+voltage+box

Just be sure you aren't destroying the entire network of phone lines in the entire home. Many homes did not have home run installs of phone lines (where all boxes have a dedicated line running to a central distribution block). Instead, they were daisy chained or linked (where a single line comes from phone service and then linked box to box or split and then various runs split from there). This means if you cut the line you kill it for the entire house. While most people under 40 may no longer have land line service, others may still want in the future or you may decide to use those lines for alternate uses.

I would suggest putting in an old work box or even just a [simple low voltage bracket] (https://www.amazon.com/Thomas-Betts-SC100RR-Carlon-Voltage/dp/B000W09PQI/), just buy locally as they will be about a buck at home improvement stores. Then wire it on the inside or just leave it, but put a blank plate over it. You could also pull it up or down the wall to place in a different vertical location pretty easily.

If it's directly the other side of the wall, you don't even need to do any wiring as long as you don't mind loosing the existing phone jack. Put in an old work low voltage box like /u/alias_enki said, but you don't need a full box for low voltage.

Loose the existing wall plate/jack from the wall, but leave the wiring in tact, and just push it through the wall out of the new opening. Mount it and put a blank cover on the old place and you're good to go.

Couple questions though; is it a DSL modem with a built in access point that you are trying to move? If not, then I assume you mean ethernet, not phone line.

If that's the case, I highly recommend getting a router and running ethernet to any desktop computer, game system, media player, or smart TV you have. You can buy a box (500 ft.) of Cat5e for around $50 plus a crimper and ends and do all the cabling yourself. It's really easy to do and there's plenty of guides on crimping ends onto ethernet.

From someone who recently wired their house with Cat6A and ran a 25ft fiber drop...

I would use some LC keystones in a standard keystone plate for the walls. Run some ENT conduit for the actual lines wherever it needs to go and terminate it behind an old work low-voltage box. Drop your fiber through using fish tape, connect it up, and you're done. If this is just from one side of the wall to the other, you can skip the conduit.

Be sure to follow local, state and federal code. You'll need special plenum rated cable if this goes through any air returns or other "air handling space" and isn't inside metal conduit.

Personally, I'd actually advise against putting servers in a garage, unless yours is uncharacteristically clean.

Edit: added some links and additional clarity.

3 options

1. Connect rca lead to speaker wire ends.
   
2. Use an inwall subwoofer or a subwoofer with an external amp.
   
3. Remove the baseboard (if its installed yet). Use a multitool to cut a 1" channel behind the baseboard into the drywall. Then run a single rca in the channel and 20" or so (outlet height) up inside the wall on both sides. Pop out of the wall with old work low voltage boxes. Replace the baseboard to hide the wire. I run a level line/channel about 2" off the floor and be cautious not to nail into the wire when replacing the baseboard. Drywall is 1/2 thick, which is large enough for the cable.
   Multi-tool
   http://m.harborfreight.com/oscillating-multi-tool-62279.html
   
   RCA
   http://www.monoprice.com/mobile/product/details/2680?maincategoryid=102&categoryid=10236&subcategoryid=1023603&cpncd=
   
   Single Gang Low Voltage Box https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000W09PQI/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_JgYMwb3PFJAP8

I have both my servers. An r810 and a r320 vertically mounted on their own vertical wall mount racks. Just make sure you hit the studs and you'll have no problems. If it's in the budget and you have space in your patch panel, think about installing at least five Ethernet drops just below or just beside the server. Makes for nice cable management. Shouldn't cost too much. I get most of my gear off Amazon in that regard.
https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-Mount-Patch-Panel-Bracket/dp/B001YHYVEY/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=wall+mount+vertical+server+rack&qid=1570787721&sprefix=wall+mounted+vertical+ser&sr=8-3

https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Listed-10-Pack-Keystone/dp/B00IO3HEN6/ref=mp_s_a_1_13?keywords=keystone+jack&qid=1570787805&sprefix=keyst&sr=8-13

https://www.amazon.com/Thomas-Betts-SC100RR-Carlon-Voltage/dp/B000W09PQI/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=low+voltage+box&qid=1570787902&sprefix=low+voltage&sr=8-3

https://www.amazon.com/Mediabridge-Keystone-Plate-6-Port-White/dp/B072BC45GZ/ref=mp_s_a_1_12?keywords=keystone+wall+plate&qid=1570787950&sprefix=keystone&sr=8-12

https://www.amazon.com/Choseal-Ethernet-ethernet-Computer-Shielded/dp/B07QC4XM2P/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?keywords=cat7+ethernet+cable+500ft+shielded&qid=1570788039&sprefix=cat7+ethernet+cable+500ft&sr=8-5#

I found and bought my cat7 cable from another location. Came on a spool. And was riser cable, meaning it had a braided shield around the foil shield like you see in coax cable. Good luck