#20 in Switches
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Reddit mentions of Ulincos Momentary Push Button Switch U19D1 1NO SPST Black Metal Shell with Red LED Ring Suitable for 19mm 3/4" Mounting Hole Pack with a Resistor (Red)
Sentiment score: 1
Reddit mentions: 2
We found 2 Reddit mentions of Ulincos Momentary Push Button Switch U19D1 1NO SPST Black Metal Shell with Red LED Ring Suitable for 19mm 3/4" Mounting Hole Pack with a Resistor (Red). Here are the top ones.
or
Momentary switch: Push & Hold,ON; Release,OFFThere is no pigtails for U19D1 switch.It need to be soldered carefullyThe switch and LED are separated, LED can be on all the time or only on when switch is on,depending on how you wire itThe rated voltage of the LED is 1.8-2.8V, with soldering the resistor in the package, you can fit it for 12V systemGreat for electromagnetic starter, relay, Horn Button Switch, PC Power Switch or any circuit controls
Specs:
| Color | Red |
| Size | 19mm |
| Weight | 0.02 Pounds |
Sure. Major links to major parts included, below.
I used a Dremel to cut a hole in the back of the head for the fan, and then drilled a few mounting holes and bolted the fan into the inside of the head (I used rubber washers and lock nuts). Note, the fan I selected is too loud and more powerful than needed - this should be improved.
I also drilled a hole for the panel mount momentary button and installed that.
I used the Dremel and a razor blade to cut out the eyes. Yeah, it does creep people out. I'm thinking installing red LEDs will help put them more at ease.
I ran the wires for the fan and the button to the timer, which I wired to send on 12VDC from the power adapter when the button is pushed. You can set the delay by installing a 0-ohm resistor/jumper/solder-blob between some pads on the circuit board - I figured this out experimentally. Happy to go in to more detail on all the wiring, if asked.
I secured the timer inside the head with VHB and then mounted the head on to a heavy base - just a piece of ABS I had laying around (I actually would have preferred a thicker piece, for more weight and better aesthetics).
I played around with a few materials to find something that would reliably absorb IR - the tape I used worked well. I also got some flat black plasti dip, which might produce a cleaner end result (the tape does create wrinkles around the eyes), but the tape came first and worked, so I decided not to test further.
Actually, the main reason I posted this is because I haven't found anyone else talk about how to defeat the proximity sensor in the Rift. So, for anyone who has come to this obscure corner of the internet in search of that information... there you are!
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Mannequin Head:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DQVE3QW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_WyaDzbQ48XQDV
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For the ventilation:
Momentary Push Button:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017KPM0T6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_YwaDzbYFW1XD3
Timer:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01JLY2RWY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_yxaDzbGD60YV4
Power adapter:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FEOB4EI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_byaDzb7X5130A
Fan:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N9ZQRI7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_xyaDzb04M7A2H
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To defeat the Rift's proximity sensor:
IR-absorbing tape:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GR5ZGYQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_kAaDzbFWM48EH
(There are other cheaper options, but I can guarantee this one works.)
Np. here’s an example
You then just solder your own wires. You can use the arduino (aka breadboard) jumpers so you can plug it on the motherboard.