You can do a lot with an arduino, but that requires some basic knowledge of how to wire one up have it interpret your inputs, convert those into outputs, and wire up lights and such.

To get started, there is an easier way. First, you need one of these($12), then something like this($9...ish) in a size that works for you, then a couple of packs of momentary switches ($15 for 20 of these or find some you like better).

That brings us to $36 for a basic control box that can support 12 general buttons and 4 directional buttons (Up, Down, Left, Right).

Plan your layout on a piece of paper and move the buttons around until you have a setup that looks ok, drill or cut holes in the project box (this is easier if it is the plastic kind) that are the right size to insert the buttons and tighten the nuts on the back to hold them in place, attach the provided wires to the buttons (there isn't a backwards so you can't mess up) and plug the other end in the board (it has a plug so you can't mess up). Once everything is connected to the board, make a cut at the edge of the box at the back for the USB cord to come out of, screw the project box together, and plug it in and set your bindings in ED.

DONE!

If you want to get fancy, I put something like this on the side of the box (counts as two buttons for the board) and use that for vertical (up/down) thrust. I put in one of these instead of directional buttons and glued one of these on top, but for that you will need to figure out a little simple wiring (it isn't too hard if you feel up to it). I also replaced one of my buttons with this FA toggle with a light (need to wire the light to an unused pin on the board that has power, but not too hard).

Yes, those options add some work and raise the price, but I love the thing. It is easy to use, responsive, far better than a flight throttle in my opinion.. I will never give it up. I am already planning the next version, which will probably use the same board, but require a little more technical know how to build.

For now though, start with the $36 version. You can always buy another $9 box down the road and a few more buttons to improve and rebuild it as you gain skill and confidence. Maybe someday you will move on to an arduino, which can support a lot more buttons, interaction, and customization, but you don't need to start there.

Some people have PMed asking for more info, so I may as well put it here.

I used the following:

Monoprice
8inch 28AWG High Speed Male to Female HDMI® Port Saver - Black
For the hdmi port. I also bought another hdmi piece, like a corner basically, it's in some of the early pics, but I didn't use it in the final build.


Tiesto USB Hub 2.0 4-port/4 port hub USB 2.0 Speed Cute Octopus Design - BLACK
I removed the black case on this as well as the black rubber around the usb ports. Then basically hot glued the ports in place against painters tape to make it even and smooth.

Your Cable Store
6 inch USB Micro male to female OTG extension cable
I cut these in half and spliced it into the original Gamecube power switch/button. That way I can leave my pi plugged in and switch it on like a normal console.

Evercool 60x60X10mm 5v Ball Bearing Fan, 3 Pin EC6010M05CA
I set up these fans to run off the main power, so they turn off and on with the pi.

To take apart each Gamecube, i bought this screwdriver.


Also got each person a Buffalo Classic USB Gamepad for PC
And a Retrolink N64 Style Classic Controller For PC

I forgot to mention, I took apart and weighted the buffalo classic usb controllers to be closer to the weight and feel of the original snes controller.
The exact increase in weight is about 10 pennies, but I used 8, 4 on each side, inside the controller, in stacks, glued in, because 8 fit better than 10.

It's a really tiny thing, but if you weight one controller and then hold an unweighted and a weighted one to compare, the unweighted one feels like a toy.

The N64 controller felt decently heavy on it's own. (Plus the rumble pack used to make them super heavy and I wasn't going to try and match that weight.)

Other things, these have in them the pi2 with 1gb of ram. I bought the 2 amp power supplies that are recommended for the pi.

I also bought some other odds and ends: ethernet couplers, each pi has a 16gb sd card in it.

I also replaced the power switch in my final one (the silver one) because I damaged the original switch. I used these switches.

I bought Rust-Oleum metalic base and Dupli-color spray paints.

Tools/materials used:
Bought a dremel, didn't need it.

Used my soldering iron and clamps constantly.

Used a lot of hot glue and gorilla glue.

Mod podge for applying the logos to the top of the cases. I also had some spray sealant from another project I put on the logos, before I applied them to the cases, so the ink wouldn't smear.

I used a fair bit of heat shrink and electrical tape. Also wires with couplers so the entire bottom of the console can unplug from the top if I need to repair something. Basically these though not the same brand.

Much of my job is working with electronics and soldering so this was all fairly easy for me. If you're new to building and soldering, please be careful. I've cut myself and burnt myself quite a few times. Be more careful than me.

I posted this in DIY Wednesday, but the post was removed/hidden after I edited for some reason. I would've messaged the mods but it was Xmas eve and I had stuff to do.

Current projects in progress, they will each earn their own post on completion.

Chugger Toolbox - still waiting on the illuminated push button on/off switch

Dry Hop Dip Tube - need to find a better option for the base, the part that I ordered basically left ~1" of space on the bottom of the keg that would be unreachable so I'm looking for a better option.

EDIT: Dip tube, not drip tube

EDIT2: Some additional info now that I have more time (Imgur was not really cooperating earlier and I was in a hurry to get out the door after finally getting the pics uploaded).

The chugger toolbox will be wired with the pictured three prong plug with illuminated on/off switch and fuse. If that switch is on, the fan will be running and the circuit controlling the pump will be powered provided that the green illuminated push button switch is on (still waiting on this part to come in the mail). I plan to enclose the majority of the electronics in water resistant junction boxes in case of any leakage but I don't think that this will be a major concern and I plan to include a few drain holes in the bottom so that any potential leak would be noticed and not fill up the toolbox. The fuse as well as the use of a GFCI outlet will be additional safety measures against shorts.

The dip tube will be installed in a 5gal ball lock corny that will become my dedicated dry hopping keg. I brew a lot of hop forward beers and haven't been content with any dry hopping methods that I've attempted yet so I'm hoping that this will be the solution. The idea is that I could dump as much pellet hops in the keg as I want and after a 5-9 day dry hop, transfer to a new clean keg. I'm using a 300 micron 1x14 inch tubular screen sold for dry hopping in carboys that I hope will provide enough surface area for a good constant flow but I've considered ways of restricting the outflow if needed. From there, I've been playing around with 304 stainless fittings to find what would work; a 3/4"x1/8" reducing bushing works great at the top with a pretty tight (but not perfect) fit for a dip tube to pass through but I'm having trouble coming up with a good plug for the bottom that won't prevent the dip tube from getting to the last inch or two of beer.

Yes they connect to the GPIO. I would use some pushbuttons like this then get some of these dupont cables to connect them to the GPIO on your Pi. Just snip and strip the male end of the cable and solder it to the leads on the button. You'll want to daisy chain one lead from all of the buttons and plug that into a ground pin on the Pi then connect the other lead from the button to an availible GPIO pin shown on this page in the "connecting to the Raspberry Pi" section.

After you have your buttons all connected, you'll need to install Retrogame. It's very simple but Adafruit's guide is pretty bad, if you ask me. I had a hell of a time figuring it out the first time so I'll just explain it to you here to save you time.

Use Putty on your PC to SSH into the Pi (you can find your Pi's IP address in the Retropie menu in Emulationstation, the port is 22, and use the SSH connection type, then the username is Pi, password is raspberry - when you type the password into the terminal nothing will show up, just hit enter when you're done and you'll have direct control over the terminal on your Pi). Now copy this code and right click in the terminal window to paste and hit enter

git clone git://github.com/adafruit/Adafruit-Retrogame
When that's done enter this

sudo nano /etc/rc.local
Enter the following right before where it says "exit 0"

/home/pi/Adafruit-Retrogame/retrogame &
Hit ctrl+x and save the file. Now enter

sudo nano /etc/udev/rules.d/10-retrogame.rules
And enter this in the new document

SUBSYSTEM=="input", ATTRS{name}=="retrogame", ENV{ID_INPUT_KEYBOARD}="1"
Now save the file just as with the previous one.
Now download the retrogame.cfg from the retrogame github and open it with a text editor on your computer (if you don't already have it now would be a good time to get Notepad++) and change the keybinding you want to use for the corresponding pin. Save the file and copy it in the boot directory of your Pi by putting the SD card in your computer.

That should do it.

If you need any help or more information just ask. I know how irritating this stuff can be. I've been wrestling with getting my setup working perfectly for a while and have just recently figured it all out. It's great once it works!

Edit: formatting fixed.

A few weeks ago I posted some pics of a "quick and dirty" induction heater I made:

https://www.reddit.com/r/vaporents/comments/8igobf/gear_shot_yet_another_quick_and_dirty_dynavap/

The heater I built in the previous post worked great, but I wasn't happy that it heated continuously when it was powered on. I decided to add an "on demand" mode, similar to the way the Portside functions: I wanted the induction heater to be energized only when the vapcap was in need of being heated.

I decided to use the same method and hardware that the Portside uses for its triggering mechanism: a small momentary switch at the base of the coil, utilizing the same 12 mm x 12 mm Arduino 'tactile' input switch as the Portside. This switch is normally open but closes (and activates the circuit) when the vapcap is inserted in the induction heater opening and lightly pressed down. I mounted this to a 25 mm square Zip tie "sticky base" using a small dab of hot glue, and ran the wires under the base through a drilled hole. I am happy with how it came out.

I took one other feature from the Portside design and decided to use a MOS FET triggering module to handle the actual power switching, sparing my momentary switch from having to pass enough current to power the heater.

This is the finished desktop unit - pictures, diagrams and some other notes:

https://imgur.com/a/pzRe3SV


PARTS LIST:

12mm x 12mm Arduino Switches:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01NCQVGLC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

My original 'big red switch' was a pull from an Epiphone Valve Junior guitar amplifier, left over from an earlier project. It looks nice, but it's nothing special - any latching (i.e., non-momentary) single pole/single throw (SPST) switch will do. This site has some switches that look pretty good and could work:

https://www.sparkfun.com/categories/145?page=1

Momentary trigger switch base:
https://www.amazon.com/Self-Adhesive-Mounting-Organizer-Management-Fastener/dp/B074279VJG/ref=sr_1_16?ie=UTF8&qid=1527451422&sr=8-16&keywords=zip+tie+sticky+mount

Like the Portside's trigger, I used a 12mm x 12mm Arduino tactile (momentary) switch. Mine is hot-glued to a Zip tie "sticky base", which has the foam removed and is screwed to my board. I kept the stock Arduino switch button and trimmed its edge to fit inside the tube. There is a small segment of 7/16" wooden dowel inside the tube to achieve the correct height.

Pyrex tube:
Iwodevape Replacement Glass Tank for Cloupor Cloutank M3 Vaporizer authentic
https://www.fasttech.com/p/5236304

MOS FET trigger module:
15A 400W MOS FET Trigger Switch Drive Module PWM Regulator Control Panel
https://www.ebay.com/itm/MOS-FET-Trigger-Switch-Drive-Module-PWM-Regulator-Control-Panel-15A-400W-NEW/331961560311?hash=item4d4a736cf7:g:7IsAAOSwEzxYeEwQ or similar. Just search for the above part description, you'll find the right one. It's a popular Arduino circuit.

If you plan on using a momentary switch, this is the way to go. Don't make the momentary switch directly supply the heater current.

Heater:
Yosoo 5V-12V ZVS Low Voltage Induction Heating Power Supply Module With Coil
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01C71XKZ6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Power jack:
If you can solder:
https://www.amazon.com/2-1x5-5mm-Female-Barrel-Socket-Connector/dp/B01M3WBIA3/ref=sr_1_21?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1527463812&sr=1-21&keywords=5.5+x+2.1+female

If you can't:
https://www.amazon.com/Sumaote-2-1x5-5mm-Connector-Terminal-Adapter/dp/B0761NL8V6/ref=sr_1_18?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1527463812&sr=1-18&keywords=5.5+x+2.1+female . Although, seriously, this probably isn't a good project for you if you can't solder.

I know many of you have these for yourselves and don't need any help or parts lists, but this may help those who need a little more guidance.

Updated to add: the above links are intended to show the correct parts, but may not be the cheapest or fewest quantities available.

Cheers!

I haven't done this myself but I read on here that you can keep the original button and joystick if you buy a push button microswitch like this, https://www.amazon.com/Microswitch-Arcade-Button-Standard-Jamma/dp/B01IJ8VYK4/ref=mp_s_a_1_11?ie=UTF8&qid=1541467443&sr=8-11&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=arcade+button+micro+switch&dpPl=1&dpID=41ZSINy0f9L&ref=plSrch

I'm not sure if that is the right one, but it is something like that to get the button to register, the stock button are all glued up and too much work to clean. You'll also need wire, USB encoder, usb wires. Not sure about the joystick though. The goal is to convert the joystick to USB so it can register in retropie/ raspberry pi.

When you add it all up for what you need to buy and do, it makes much more sense to replace everything like what most people are doing here. I bought a 2 player joystick set with lighted buttons on Ebay for $36. Not the best set but it is a little better than stock and a lot easier to work with.

Just make sure to look for buttons that are size 30mm since the hole on the unit are for size 30 mm. My set came with 16 30mm buttons and 4 24mm buttons.

I appreciate all the comments and ideas. They are all a bit above my pay grade however. But, I can learn. I am thinking of getting this 80 piece Particle Maker Kit from Amazon

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HZFS0PE?aaxitk=pneNT3rT3XhgMcS0LMxLmw&pd_rd_i=B01HZFS0PE&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=5582544217303223519&pf_rd_s=desktop-sx-top-slot&pf_rd_t=301&pf_rd_i=esp8266&hsa_cr_id=7664064650501#feature-bullets-btf

to get started learning about building IoT devices. It doesn’t say in the description that it is an ESP8266, but when I search that term, this comes up. I’m not sure if this will meet my original objective, but it sounds like fun. Any opinions or experiences with Particle?

As far as my original post - I failed to mention the track I was on that I thought was going to get me where I was going. I took a standard outdoor motion spot and covered the photocell so it always thought it was dark. I disconnected the parallel connection of motion sensor from the light. I was going to hook the motion detector in series to 1 channel on a 2 channel Sonoff, with that channel set to ON on power up with no output. When the motion detector closed the circuit and restored power to the Sonoff, I hoped that would trigger an IFTTT applet with the trigger ‘When Sonoff Channel 1 turns on’ and action ‘Send Notification’. Then connect the second channel to the light, power up state OFF on power up, and with a combination of IFTTT and Stringify, turn the light on only ‘if nighttime’ and off after 10 minute timer. As you can tell, I don’t want the light going on during the day. It’s a long story..

I really thought I had it figured out, but the Sonoff doesn’t seem to send a signal of Turned On after power up. All I really need is an IFTTT compatible device, (in place of Channel 1 on the Sonoff), that could trigger IFTTT on power up. Then I would have exactly what I want with a PIR that is meant to be outdoor. The only other possible flaw in that plan is the potential for false positives, etc. during daylight with a PIR that is designed for use in the dark. (As mentioned by @idetectanerd.)

Long post, and not sure if I explained it well. Thanks again for your input.

Seems as if you have all the parts you would need for a basic build. I'm still a bit new to this myself, so hopefully someone else will correct me if I'm off the mark.

I used the following parts:

• (1) Hammond 1590G
  
• (1) 3V Blue Lamp Metal 14mm Threaded Momentary Push Button Switch
  
• (4) Neodymium Magnets 1/4" x 1/8" Disc
  
• (8) Neodymium Magnets 1/8" x 1/8" Disc
  
• (1) 18650 Flat Tip Battery Holder
  
• (2) 6x6mm x 8.5mm PCB Momentary Tactile Push Button
  
• (1) .030" Thick, Clear Lexan - Polycarbonate
  
• 20AWG Stranded Wire
  
• (1) Varitube 510 Connector
  
• (1) SX350 Chip (Pre-wired for up/down switches and USB From Varitube)
  
  I think that's it. I also have a few additional parts for the lighted push button, but you wont need those if you use a regular one. I can always post that info if you need it.
  
  Check the FAQ for tool recommendations for the basics you would need there.
  
  The SX350 allows for gravity changes (by tilting left/right) to control the wattage and uses it for menu navigation so the buttons are only there if you want more direct control.
  
  
  edit: If your SX350 does not have the buttons pre-wired there are pads for them on the chip you can wire your own. I believe there is a software update to enable them from Yihi. The one I got from Varitube was already set up for them.
  
  Normal momentary buttons are fine. I used something like This but any tactile switch should work fine.
  
  I have some of these on order as they look/feel a bit nicer then the basic plastic ones i have now.
  
  You might want some magnets for the faceplate. I got some 1/8"x1/8" and 1/4"x1/8" rare earth magnets off amazon and epoxied them in. Check the FAQ for some recommendations on glues and such.
  
  I would also recommend heat shrink tubing and some liquid electrical tape for the solder connections.
  
  Hope that helps.

For safe shut downs, charging warnings, and charging status - Adafruit PowerBoost 1000 Charger - Rechargeable 5V Lipo USB Boost @ 1A - 1000C-Purchased from amazon, https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01BMRBTH2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Shell used-Gametown® Full Housing Shell Cover Case Pack with Screwdriver for Nintendo Gameboy Classic/Original GB DMG-01 Repair Part-White (pick whatever color you want)-Purchased from amazon, https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01K1C2L1C/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Screen used- BW 3.5 Inch TFT LCD Monitor For Car/Automobile – purchased from amazon, https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0045IIZKU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (side note here is that in order to make this fit nicer, I installed it upside down in the case.

Speak used - uxcell 16pcs 27mm External Magnetic Speaker Loudspeaker 8 Ohm 0.25W, purchased from amazon, https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B010V4RAAW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (do not put ANYTHING on the top of the speaker when you install or it will not work.

Prototyping bread board, I purchased from amazon but it is no longer available at the link.

I used this PCB for the buttons on 1 build, the drill guide is VERY useful for this project. - 4 Button PCB For Gameboy DMG-01DIY Pi Zero Made In USA With Grounds and Hole Guide BY:Atomic Market, purchased at amazon, https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01JKJCQVM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

L-R buttons- 100 Pcs 6 x 6mm x 9.5mm PCB Momentary Tactile Tact Push Button Switch 4 Pin DIP, purchased at amazon https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008420WOA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

28 Gauge Wire - Ribbon Cable - 10 Wire (15ft), purchased at amazon, https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007R9SQQM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (I recommend going to a smaller (higher) gauge than 28. 30 or 32 would have made it a lot easer but 28 will do.

Indicator lights, Uxcell a11092800ux0119 Uxcell (Pack of 75), purchased at amazon, https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01F0TCXSW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (these are totally optional)

Resistors and capicitors (audio), purchased from https://www.taydaelectronics.com Note: heres the guide I used for the audio too! https://sudomod.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=480

Old Gameboy game cartridge. For aesthetics.
Headphone jack, ebay, https://www.ebay.com/itm/3-5mm-Stereo-Female-Socket-Audio-Jack-5Pin-PCB-Panel-Mount-Connector-PJ325-/400959590673

Volume wheel, ebay, https://www.ebay.com/itm/20pcs-B103-16x2mm-10K-Ohm-Double-Dial-Taper-Volume-Wheel-Duplex-PotentiometerBS/293146992835?epid=11009192051&_trkparms=ispr%3D1&hash=item4440ec20c3:g:NZkAAOSw3h1ZUavq&enc=AQAEAAAB0BPxNw%2BVj6nta7CKEs3N0qUCHDbWKwW7sKftQNu9OoIx7SAZoMMNoO7ZC%2BQU2m6tHizIeixg2Hdk8yQin%2B7yNcIdtTzT%2FneqdaLt1WntvDDMDNnZ9%2BCyBsPWRiKLCNPKdeaaZNnBjMoVA%2F0tK%2BtG7DVLtcUKV1a4ZUD8%2F3Lgu9eesPLoBiXZs77Vo7R%2FDaZVMV%2FquPTyLO%2FBFipuEkim1t7BIMiLOi2P3Z31r4yxIdLUw6SCVesvVeqBQuoKov776Dxzk8pUY7PZvu4Q3ULnqBWmlWXsKXc8iAp9juNxUBFHnDgW6A7iElTGYe0sQRXfFHW73jI62f5aO%2FnqGANNK%2F7KJlu474aR3Gae9%2FJCT%2FwoLqmBb4FfizrUJ6qKEuVeLAi31kJSoJXIv4msi3r0bMNSm2D7FL5DUBr0Bc4xsSPi7KFWI9AhmQjUn%2FsLVysgEKd8QEildi1DULaVOX11bv95PGoXvfAusYXSi5NQZk4oZJHr6QIjXu5w4e9Nd2lFtmG4ZB%2BkqROOwwliad72iafj6cbSLphBAjtWGZQVNbmcdKXG6S8h7cTVqt0aD4oej7%2BlDVihmo%2BV0Rc2MhA9FgkM%2BcyzPd0qc9vHvdxjpQUq&checksum=2931469928353c744c25da8843a496116014d4766745

Micro SD card (16 GB minimum)

Female Micro usb Port, (I know I did buy these but I can’t find the link. I bought female micro usb ports to make charging easier.)

I want to say this is the battery that I used, specifically because after taking the shell off it was the perfect fit inside of a gutted Gameboy Game cartridge-https://www.bestbuy.com/site/mycharge-razorplus-4000mah-portable-charger-for-most-usb-enabled-devices-silver/6292246.p?skuId=6292246

3d printed button wells-http://market.sudomod.com/3d-printed-gbz-button-wells/

Extra buttons-https://www.retromodding.com/collections/gameboy

Screw bracket-http://market.sudomod.com/3d-printed-gbz-screw-bracket/

I got A LOT of buttons, glass screen shields, the other three builds button PCBs, some stickers, seriously a lot of stuff from https://store.kitsch-bent.com/ his store is unfortunately closed as he has had life catch up to him and has some shit to attend to. If he comes back online show him some love.

Stuff I got from kitsch
PCB board with LR input points
Buttons for X/Y (you can opt to just get replacement snes or an extra set of Gameboy buttons.
Glass screen that fit the GB shell after removing extra plastic


And obviously you should have a pi zero/w as well a shit ton of patience.

Saw a similar issue with mine when I first set it up - switch worked but no lit led.

My issue of course was a wiring problem. For the led to be activated you need to make sure that the additional led connections are made too. This will depend upon the switch you used of course but if you are using something like this https://www.amazon.com/Quentacy-Momentary-Waterproof-Stainless-Suitable/dp/B075QBJVTS?ref_=ast_bbp_dp then check the wiring diagram for program 1. My mistake was I missed that the NO (Normally Open) and the positive LED legs should be shorted to each other. Since mine had a wiring harness I just connected both wires to the positive connection of the zvs unit.

Hope your led issue is a simple fix like mine

BTW I like how you were able to fit it into that compact case, looks cool

Hi everyone! If you liked the electronics enclosure you can download the design files here -

• https://grabcad.com/library/3-4-axis-cnc-electronics-enclosure-1
  

• https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2756470
  

  
  

  And here's the part list!
  

  
  

  QUANTITY | COMPONENT NAME | LINK / COMMENT
  

  ---------:|----------|----------
  1 | 7I76-5I25 PLUG-N-GO KIT | http://store.mesanet.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=215
  1 | DROK LM2596 Analog Control Step-down Regulator Module | www.amazon.com/gp/product/B019RKVMKU
  1 | DC Fan (120mm x 120mm x 25mm 24V) | www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01FBPQMXW
  1 | Mesh Dust Filter for 120mm Fan | www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M0A2UH0
  3 | DIN Rail | www.amazon.com/gp/product/B015E4EIOK
  1 | IEC320 Inlet Power Socket | www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ME5YAPK/
  4 | KL-5056 Stepper Motor Driver - 32 bit DSP Based | www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00O6DC8PW
  1 | Emergency Stop Button Switch | www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0094GM004
  25ft | 4 Pin Cable | www.ebay.com/itm/20M-4-Pin-5050-3528-RGB-LED-Strip-Light-Wire-Extension-Connector-Cable-Cord-Line-/282110056592?hash=item41af11d890
  1 | Antek Linear Power Supply - 500W 30V 16A Peak 25A With Passive Filters / EMI-RFI Filters and Suppressors | https://www.ebay.com/itm/PS-5N30-500W-30V-16A-Peak-25A-Stepper-Motor-Antek-Linear-Power-Supply-/371664502398?hash=item5688ee3e7e
  3 | Wall Outlets from Home Depot | Find ones you like / feel are safe enough using
  16ft | Led Strip Lights | www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GJ3O0J8/
  1 | Misc. Hardware | Nuts, Bolts, Standoffs, Crimp Connectors, Spare Fuses, 2 Extra Limit Switches
  2 | Ogrmar SSR-25 DA Solid State Relay with Heat Sink | www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074FT4VXB/
  1 | 18 AWG Gauge Stranded Hook-Up Wire Kit | www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00N51OO7Q
  ~30pc | Heat Shrink Tubing | www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00OZSL8UE
  1 | Shop-Vac | www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EPH63K0
  7 | Uxcel 16mm Thread 4-Pin Panel Mount Wire Connector | www.amazon.com/gp/product/B016FCZ5SS
  2 | 8 Circuit 20A Terminal Block | www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000S5Q2VS
  
  Best of luck! Feel free to PM me or comment with any questions or feedback!

Well if you must know, Its a cremation box, usually sold for $20-30 on ebay. The Heating module and coil costed 13.00 from https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GDVVANA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1 The Button costed me 9.99 here https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075QBJVTS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and the power supply costed me 11.11 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07NR6FPN9/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


With shipping and Best offer accepted, i think im doing justice here. These were the best prices i could find at the time from MULTIPLE vendors. I have a Portside Mini in the mailbox tomorrow and THIS box has NEVER failed me in the last few months since built. It is a work in progress yes. It can be expanded and definitely worked on to make it much better. I would of taken $50 which is what they USUALLY sell for but i started it at 75.00. Im sure it will cost me about 7-10 to ship when wrapped properly. Not loony at all.

Everything but the tact buttons is simple. You just buy the parts and plop them in.

The tact button requires a bit more and is the only mod you can mess up. I recommend using a controller with some life on it so you don't worry about scratching it up or w/e. You will appreciate that when your hands are shaking soldering it.


Here is the best tutorial I was able to find and the one I used. I am a visual learner. I was a beginner and my mod came out pretty near perfect. I did have to redo my solder points after getting some practice. Also, I should have cut larger holes for my tact buttons from the beginning, it would have saved me doing more shaving to make the button work correct after it was all put together.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W1TwxXyu_xU

Note that during the video he is using a slightly older board but the idea is exactly the same.

If you want to add buttons I highly highly suggest a remap board shown in the video above found here:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/PLAYSTATION-4-PS4-DualShock4-DS4-Remap-Board-Install-Hard-Remap-Buttons-Like-XO-/301481981148

That board allows you to add buttons without messing up your actual motherboard and you can use the buttons on the front still.


Also, practice with a soldering gun first, which brings me to the list of stuff you need:

soldering gun

hot glue gun

small screw drivers

exacto knife

buttons

button covers


Almost forgot, get tactile buttons with covers from amazon, but these specific ones work in all 4 directions which means you have to cut enough of your controller out to make them push down in all directions (aka better on the flat or farther down the controller so it doesnt hit the sharp edge)

http://www.amazon.com/uxcell-Momentary-Tactile-Button-12x12x12mm/dp/B008DGAEEA/ref=sr_1_1?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1451522482&sr=1-1&keywords=uxcell+10pcs+Momentary+Tact+Tactile+Push+Button+Switch+12x12x12mm+4+Pin+w+Cap

More pics: https://imgur.com/a/aR4rXKk

One day my friend's pen broke and we decided to take it apart. Once seeing the electronics, I thought I could do better. This mod has three settings 5v, 5.5v, and 6v. The five is good for most carts but for carts with a resistance of 2 ohms plus you can step it up a little. This mod has a maximum power rating of 60w. If this gets enough interest I'll post the stl files for the print. Right now you have to charge it off of a lipo charger but Il probably at a usb charger inside when I get a chance. I would really only recommend this project for someone with a decent amount of electronics experience since you are soldering directly to the battery cells.   Here are the parts I used:

510 connector- https://www.ebay.com/itm/1x-Lot-EVOD1-Vape1Pen-1100mAh-Battery-MT3-Tank-W-USB-e-Atomizer1-USA/323685572877?hash=item4b5d29e10d:m:mKJW4oFY8IqPaDUXjzsNH6w:sc:USPSFirstClass!07079!US!-1:rk:7:pf:0

voltage regulator-https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071CHGWRM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

led button- https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017KPM0S2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1   18650

battery- https://www.ebay.com/itm/2-18650-Samsung-25R-2500mAh-35A-Rechargeable-Battery-for-Vape-Mods-Free-Case/111840099041?hash=item1a0a307ae1:g:fLUAAOSwZKlcG95I:sc:USPSFirstClass!07079!US!-1:rk:3:pf:1&frcectupt=true

xt30 connectors- https://www.amazon.com/Finware-Upgrade-Female-Connectors-Battery/dp/B074S7NH3H/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=xt30&qid=1550341561&s=gateway&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1   servo connectors- https://www.amazon.com/DIYmall-10PCS-

Servo-Extension-Cable/dp/B016RJ8S42/ref=sr_1_16?crid=2496NE6TU30PG&keywords=servo+connector&qid=1550341588&s=gateway&sprefix=servo+con%2Caps%2C139&sr=8-16

After seeing what /u/SgtDwightSchrute1 built the other day, I wanted to give it a go as well! I took most of the parts he used and linked in his thread, but I went with a few more switches as well as a set of POV buttons that have a mode switch to switch them from POV directions to an X-Y axis. The Green button is for the POV mode, and I also moved the Mode LED to the face of the box so you can tell what mode it is in.

I also added some vinyl carbon fiber wrap to give it a nice finish!

Parts links which are the same as /u/SgtDwightSchrute1 for the most part:

Button box: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002BSRIO

Control board: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00UUROWWK

Push buttons: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00T45I7GQ

Toggle switches: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0154JY8OA

Carbon Fiber Vinyl Film: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0059XCVVO

The LED is a 5mm Green 18mcd with a holder I had around, but any LED would work, just don't go super bright!

Original inspiration here: https://www.reddit.com/r/hoggit/comments/acn7il/scrutes_cheap_dcs_button_box_diy/?st=JQIL5FJK&sh=c37d0a0a

Sure. Major links to major parts included, below.

I used a Dremel to cut a hole in the back of the head for the fan, and then drilled a few mounting holes and bolted the fan into the inside of the head (I used rubber washers and lock nuts). Note, the fan I selected is too loud and more powerful than needed - this should be improved.

I also drilled a hole for the panel mount momentary button and installed that.

I used the Dremel and a razor blade to cut out the eyes. Yeah, it does creep people out. I'm thinking installing red LEDs will help put them more at ease.

I ran the wires for the fan and the button to the timer, which I wired to send on 12VDC from the power adapter when the button is pushed. You can set the delay by installing a 0-ohm resistor/jumper/solder-blob between some pads on the circuit board - I figured this out experimentally. Happy to go in to more detail on all the wiring, if asked.

I secured the timer inside the head with VHB and then mounted the head on to a heavy base - just a piece of ABS I had laying around (I actually would have preferred a thicker piece, for more weight and better aesthetics).

I played around with a few materials to find something that would reliably absorb IR - the tape I used worked well. I also got some flat black plasti dip, which might produce a cleaner end result (the tape does create wrinkles around the eyes), but the tape came first and worked, so I decided not to test further.

Actually, the main reason I posted this is because I haven't found anyone else talk about how to defeat the proximity sensor in the Rift. So, for anyone who has come to this obscure corner of the internet in search of that information... there you are!

-----

Mannequin Head:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DQVE3QW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_WyaDzbQ48XQDV

-----

For the ventilation:

Momentary Push Button:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017KPM0T6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_YwaDzbYFW1XD3

Timer:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01JLY2RWY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_yxaDzbGD60YV4

Power adapter:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FEOB4EI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_byaDzb7X5130A

Fan:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N9ZQRI7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_xyaDzb04M7A2H

-----

To defeat the Rift's proximity sensor:

IR-absorbing tape:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GR5ZGYQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_kAaDzbFWM48EH
(There are other cheaper options, but I can guarantee this one works.)

67 available, $2.75 each, +$3 shipping to USA only.

https://www.paypal.com/cgi-bin/webscr?cmd=_s-xclick&hosted_button_id=YBC64S7RA89NW

For 2S only. Under voltage detector set to 6.4v. Pfet for reverse polarity protection of timer and under voltage detector. Slide switch functions as an on-off. Dimensions are 76.05 x 16.35 x 1.6mm, copper weight is 2oz, ENIG (gold) finish and solder resist is blue.

• Parts: http://www.digikey.com/short/tnvh31
  
  
• Wiring diagram: https://www.dropbox.com/s/tfzxu652u1bjqud/PWM%201590G%20wiring%20diagram.png?dl=0
  
  
• 1590G drilling template: https://www.dropbox.com/s/ndq9osgwtgdluo2/PWM%201590G%20drilling%20template.pdf?dl=0
  
  This is what the board looks like once assembled
  
  Note: Pot value selected is 50K, if you have a preference for another value please find the same model with that different value. The timer frequency cap is labeled as ".1uF*" on the board. Again, select one of a another value if you have another preference.
  
  A spacer should be placed between the tact and board to give it a proper height. Laser cut delrin spacers will be included. (http://i.imgur.com/RVEMTEs.png)
  
  
  
  Alternate 12 x 12mm tact switches:
  
  http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/PTS125SK85%20LFS/CKN9151-ND/1146883
  
  http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/430476085716/430476085716-ND/5209048
  
  http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/ADTS25NV/679-2305-ND/2344311
  
  http://www.amazon.com/Momentary-Tactile-Button-Switch-12x12x12mm/dp/B008420U92/
  
  http://www.ebay.com/itm/10pcs-Momentary-Tact-Tactile-Push-Button-Switch-12-x-12mm-x-10mm-4-Pin-DIP-Cap-/351074434692

I've been told that the 6x6x9.5 or 10mm tacts work best for scuffing. if you want buttons I prefer the 6x6x8.5 tacts with caps.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00O9VVVPY?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00UBWS9IW?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008420U92?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008MLKJ3C?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00

here are some versions I've been playing with. Hope this help!

Awesome man. I cannot tell you how cool I find all this. Science!

Here is what I have purchased so far.

12v 6a 72w power supply

ZVS Heater and Coil Combo

Switch. Can hold up to 20amps not sure that mattters whatever, room for extra isn't bad.

[Glass Tube]I DELETED THIS AS WHAT I HAD HERE IS TOO BIG! DO NOT BUY THE GUITAR SLIDE I HAD LISTED! NEW TUBE. I ordered this from China on a Thursday, let's see how long it takes to get here.

So, I would just be missing the mosfet and momentary switches that you have. Do you find them necessary? I might just buy the mosfet and momentary for peace of mind, but I did see a couple build that avoided the mosfet for simplicity's sake. This build seems to have avoided one.

Any further advice (wire gauge, soldering tips, etc)? I am currently looking for a good box to put it all in. Thanks again for the reply.

EDIT - MOSFET

Momentary Buttons

Mounting things for the momentary buttons

IF ANYONE IS READING THIS IN THE FUTURE, CONSIDER USING A 120W POWER SUPPLY. I DO NOT REALLY UNDERSTAND BUT SUPPOSEDLY IT MATTERS.

I have old (like 50s/60's old) craftsman bandsaw and table saw that someone had rigged light switches on for power at some point, I replaced them with these paddle switches and I love them.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005W17HYY/

They are kind of bulky so you need a place to put a surface mount electrical box, but other than that they're a pretty simple install using basic crimp-on spade connectors.

Also since you'd put the switch in-line with the cord you could put a longer power cord on it while you're at it, if you're already dealing with a short cord.

When I get home tonight I can snap a couple pics of how I have them installed if it would help.

Not the person you replied to, but I will try to help.

Electrical switches are relatively simple devices but because there are so many styles of switches available, what you are asking for is really not that simple.

The first question is: What style of switch do you want? Toggle, momentary toggle, push button, momentary push button, rotary, magnetic, rocker? There are literally hundreds of thousands of different switches available.

The next question is how will you be making the connection? Solder, crimp, barrel connector, dupont, molex, scotchlok, screw terminal?

And finally, how and where will you mount the switch? Inline on the wiring harness? Do you need to drill a mounting hole? Are you looking for something that comes with mounting hardware? Is there clearance for your switch location?

I know this is all new to you and I am throwing out a bunch of terms you may have never even heard before. The simple solution for you, at least at first, might be to wire your LED strip right into the output screw terminals of your power supply. Then when the printer is on your light is on, and the light is off when the printer is off. Just be sure to mind the polarity (red to +, black to -) and wire into the 24v dc output side and not the 120v ac input side of the terminal block.

If it helps, here is a short list of switches I have purchased for different projects (all of these require soldering and some kind of mounting hole or hardware):

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00SUXW18S
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B008DS1GY0
https://smile.amazon.com/ZUPAYIPA-Solder-Rocker-Switch-Toggle/dp/B01N2U8PK0
https://smile.amazon.com/Magic-shell-5-Pack-Rocker-Position/dp/B07D285PLL
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B008ICKO30

There's nothing wrong with your code, I just ran it and it works fine. Are you sure that you are wired up correctly?

• Are you on gpio21 (pin 40, lower right hand corner)?
  
  
• is your button connected to ground?
  
  
• If you are using one of those little 4 pronged momentary buttons, make sure that you have it connected correctly, 2 pins on each side are always connected to each other, so try moving 1 wire to a different pin.

Didn't take days. Less than an hour, but at the same time I've done about 3-4 of these before so I was already familiar with the inside of a 360 controller.

Here's the tall tactile switches you need for the paddles: http://www.amazon.com/Amico-Momentary-Tactile-Button-Switch/dp/B008420WOA/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1394140371&sr=8-3&keywords=tactile+switches

That's 100 of them which is way too many, but only buying 3 or 4 is still only like $1 less...so I bought 100 and they've lasted me through various projects.

You also need (it looks like a lot more than it really is, but I'm being detailed)

• Hot glue gun
  
• Some kind of thin wire (salvages phone cable or wire from usb cable works)
  
• Some kind of material to make paddles out of (mine are heat shields from a Server CPU...but any kind of plastic/metal strip will work). I've made them from pen caps, erector sets, and prescription bottles before.
  
• Soldering Iron + Solder
  
• The correct driver to take apart your controller. The Xbone needs two special torx drivers.
  
• Drill and various bits. (If you have taps, that makes some of it easier as your screws wont be threading the plastic)
  
• Small screws to hold paddles on (I pulled mine from my random screw bin)
  
• Whatever screws you want for trigger stops (if you want them). I like knobby allen head screws so I can undo them by hand if I want
  
• If you want adjustable triggers some kind of small screws for that as well. I've done adjustable only on the right, both adjustable and neither. I'm on the fence about them. They helped with the FAL in BO2, but I never felt the need for them in ghosts.

That's gorgeous. Great work.

My only thought is it's absolutely perfect if you add a safety power switch. A very small detail, but might make a big difference. https://www.amazon.com/Woodstock-D4160-110-Volt-Paddle-Switch/dp/B005W17HYY

There are products designed to be hardwired and control a load. Of course they wouldn’t integrate with your home automation but if the only goal is to turn power on/off based on the door being open they would work.

My grandma’s house was built in the 50s and every closet has one. Best feature ever and they still work to this day.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0036ZA9F2/

If you have a soldering iron, you can get the parts to make something like that yourself - like technocraft/bolanrox mentioned, you can tap the 9v line going into a pedal, add a resistor to an LED to keep from overdriving the LED, and wire inline. Myself, I'm thinking of using something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Ulincos%C2%AE-Latching-Button-Suitable-Mounting/dp/B017KP67GI/

It kinda depends on what kind of buttons the arcade cabinet uses. The switches can range anywhere from real MX style switches to something like a HAPP Microswitch or even a Sanwa Microswitch.

Either way if its not a cherry mx switch, you'd have to build everything from the ground up such as designing keycaps for the switches and creating a pcb/plate/case for it as well.

Well there is no way to switch 'on' a raspberry pi without additional circuitry

However you could connect to the GPIO pins with something like this. You can connect to the 3.3V pin and connect to a GPIO pin for the switch and monitor it for shutdown event.


Good luck.

More info @ https://imgur.com/gallery/CG9w4

Everything you need

Sourcing parts is one of the most challenging aspects of these builds. It's a chicken and egg situation in which the parts are defining the design and dimensions and at the same time the design is attempting to define the parts you should look for.

Just as one example, I sifted through tons of portable powerbanks online. The reason I selected the one I used was because:

1. It has a power button so I could switch it off
   
2. The power button was located on a side that would make it accessible in the design I was thinking of
   
3. It wasn't too large, thick or expensive
   
4. It had two USB ports which was needed to provided separate power to the pis and the servo
   
5. It could output 2A on one of the USB ports which was necessary to power the pis
   
   Similar back and forth's happened for every part that was purchased. I've listed all the parts and split them into those required for the camera and those needed for the cartridge
   
   
6. Camera:
   
   Raspberry Pi 3 x 1
   
   Raspberry Pi Cam v2 x 1
   8GB SD card (class 4 or higher) x 1
   
   M3 hex nuts - McMaster Carr 90695A033
   
   M3 screws 16 mm - Mcmaster Carr 95258A126
   
   Iphone Lens x0 . 67
   
   Male/Female Header Pins
   
   Resistors 10k x 2 + 220 O x 2
   
   Jumper Wires
   
   LED Buttons x 2 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0094GIKDK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   Adafruit 2 . 8" PiTFT x 1 https://www.adafruit.com/product/2298
   Pogo Pins https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008LTKMG4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   Clear Red 3mm LEDs x 3 https://www.amazon.com/Transparent-Lighting-Electronics-Components-Emitting/dp/B01AUI4VX8/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1503997638&sr=8-2&keywords=3mm+clear+led+red
   
   PowerBank - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01H85P0EK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   
   Resistors - 2 x 10k & 2 x 100k
   
   TowerPro MG92B Servo x 1 http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/182310479953?chn=ps&dispItem=1
   
   Neodynium Magnets 6X2 mm (8 pieces) https://www.apexmagnets.com/6mm-x-2mm-disc-neodymium-rare-earth-magnet
   
   If you aren't making your own USB cables:
   Micro USB Breakout x 2 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KLDPZVU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   
   Micro USB Cables x 2 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00S8GU03A/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   
   
7. Gif Cartridge:
   
   Raspberry Pi Zero W x 1
   8GB SD card (class 4 or higher) x 1
   
   Resistors 10k x 1 + 100k x 1
   
   Momentary Switch x 1 https://www.adafruit.com/product/367
   
   Adafruit 2 . 8" PiTFT x 1 https://www.adafruit.com/product/2298
   3 . 7 v LiPo 400mAH Battery x 1 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B016ZU9C2K/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1Adafruit
   
   Power Boost 1000C x 1 https://www.adafruit.com/product/2465
   
   Tools you may need:
   
   Soldering Iron
   Desoldering Gun/Solder Sucker
   Screwdriver set
   Crimping tool
   Pliers
   Exacto Knives
   Sand Paper(400-1200 grit)
   Tweezers
   Acrylic Spray Paints (Black and White) Krylon or Montana Gold
   Github Repo for the code: https://github.com/shekit/instagif
   
   Github Repo for the eagle files, STL files: https://github.com/shekit/instagif-hardware
   

If you can solder make a scuf tbh

I am an electronics refurbisher and I have had scuf like products come in before and a lot of the time they end up being a controller with some holes drilled in it with paddles and a board you can find online for like 15$ and do yourself

https://www.amazon.com/Playstation-Dualshock-Board-Remap-Install-4/dp/B00SVHWMEQ

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B008420WOA/ref=pd_aw_sim_63_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=JAERDCKTZASCC1X42QMP

Ah okay, thanks

So is really any push-button compatible for an external power button? For example this one https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017KP67GI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_ep_dp_TBY.BbXEG0FKM

Funny thing, I just bought this one off Amazon to have around for some future project: http://www.amazon.com/Mushroom-DPST-Emergency-Button-Switch/dp/B0094GM004?ie=UTF8&keywords=emergency%20stop%20button&qid=1462997004&ref_=sr_1_3&sr=8-3.

hey man, about to build my first heater tomorrow, I have a list of parts I ordered based on several threads and stuff you and others recommend I came up with this:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0060U92FS/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071NCKQFW/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01G00GHQY/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00VNSO3OM/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003TUMDWG/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GDVVANA/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


aside from wires, a box and tools (Ill get tomorrow from work)

am I set or do I need anything else, also if any of those things I bought incomatible?

This is my parts list.... Simple and it works

The enclosure I used: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07TS6RY85/ref=cmswrcpapaiAyhxDbV7EHBCN

The 5A power supply (5A and you don't have to use a mosfet): https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01461MOGQ/ref=cmswrcpapaiGzhxDbQWPT5QR

I used a glass slide tube for inside of the coil. You will have to rewrap the coil on the IH to fit around the slide, not hard at all: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001FWYAWQ/ref=cmswrcpapaiMAhxDbTK5P2YY

The actual IH: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GDVVANA/ref=cmswrcpapailChxDb0DGE3TM

The 5v switch w/ wiring harness (you don't need any extra wires this way): https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075QBJVTS/ref=cmswrcpapaifDhxDb7HTYE19

A Unibit would be a good thing to have to get the 3 holes drilled in the box. A hotglue gun and a screwdriver and your set....

There's magnetic mains rated Reed switches, but I prefer the robustness of a jamb switch like this Leviton 1865 3 Amp, 125 Volt, Single-Pole, Doorjamb with Jamb Box Switch, Single Circuit Momentary, Normally ON, Commercial Grade, Brass https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0036ZA9F2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_OnNvCbE7SKRP3

Thanks! Going with a basic switch with light and using the howchoo guide linked above.

Ulincos Momentary Pushbutton Switch U16B1 1NO Silver Stainless Steel Shell with Blue LED Ring Suitable for 16mm 5/8" Mounting Hole (Blue)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01G00GHQY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Wp7DzbZCH778V

Fingers crossed.

Np. here’s an example

You then just solder your own wires. You can use the arduino (aka breadboard) jumpers so you can plug it on the motherboard.

you could try this for the power.

momentary switch $8.79 (for 25, you need only 1)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01NCQVGLC/

induction heater $12.99

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GDVVANA/

project case: $12.98

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0107WU67M/

mosfet: $7.99

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01J78FX9S/

power plugs $9.99 (you need only 1 pair)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B078YP4CP6/

test tubes $6.02 (cut in half, you'll break a couple until you get one you like)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00RKMWZOA/

on/off switch $6.50 (for 15, you need only 1)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N2U8PK0/

​

in addition, you'll need some 18-20ga wire & solder, and a 12v/6a to 10a power supply

I think you need the 12mm ones

http://www.amazon.com/Momentary-Tactile-Button-Switch-12x12x12mm/dp/B008420U92

I got this switch for my saw. It's the same manufacturer that grizzly puts on their equipment.

http://www.amazon.com/Woodstock-D4160-110-Volt-Paddle-Switch/dp/B005W17HYY/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1417293379&sr=8-3&keywords=woodstock+switch

I don't think Kite specifies a type of button. These will work though: https://www.amazon.com/9-5mm-Momentary-Tactile-Button-Switch/dp/B008420WOA

https://www.amazon.com/API-ELE-Momentary-Waterproof-Stainless-Self-Reset/dp/B079GNNSRP/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1541366661&sr=8-2-spons&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=waterproof+push+switch&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/Quentacy-Momentary-Waterproof-Stainless-Suitable/dp/B075QBJVTS/ref=mp_s_a_1_16?ie=UTF8&qid=1541366661&sr=8-16&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=waterproof+push+switch&dpPl=1&dpID=410iuxGxhhL&ref=plSrch

https://www.amazon.com/TOTOT-Automatic-Self-Reset-Waterproof-Dustproof/dp/B07C4T6XT5/ref=mp_s_a_1_19?ie=UTF8&qid=1541366780&sr=8-19&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=waterproof+push+switch&dpPl=1&dpID=41UbL7CKvtL&ref=plSrch

Full parts list with links to each product:

Camera:

$36 - Raspberry Pi 3

$30 - Raspberry Pi Cam v2

$9 - 8GB SD card (class 4 or higher)

$3 - M3 hex nuts

$8 - M3 screws 16 mm

Iphone Lens x0.67

$20 - Male/Female Header Pins

$12 - Resistors 10k x 2 + 220 O x 2

$7 - Jumper Wires

$7 - LED Buttons x 2

$35 - Adafruit 2.8" PiTFT x 1

$8 - Pogo Pins

$7 - Clear Red 3mm LEDs x 3

$20 - PowerBank

$6 - Resistors - 2x 10k (included in price before) & 2x 100k

$30 - TowerPro MG92B Servo x 1

$8 - Neodynium Magnets 6X2 mm (8 pieces)

$10 - Micro USB Breakout x 2

$7 - Micro USB Cables x 2

Gif Cartridge:

$26 - Raspberry Pi Zero W x 1

$9 - 8GB SD card (class 4 or higher) x 1

Resistors 10k x 1 + 100k x 1 (included in price from camera parts multi pack)

$3 - Momentary Switch x 1

$35 - Adafruit 2.8" PiTFT x 1

$13 - 3.7 v LiPo 400mAH Battery x 1

$20 - Power Boost 1000C x 1

Tools you may need:

Soldering Iron, Desoldering Gun/Solder Sucker, Screwdriver set, Crimping tool, Pliers, Exacto Knives, Sand Paper(400-1200 grit), Tweezers, Acrylic Spray Paints (Black and White) Krylon or Montana Gold
Github Repo for the code: https://github.com/shekit/instagif

Github Repo for the eagle files, STL files: https://github.com/shekit/instagif-hardware

Total Cost: $369

+ iPhone Lens which varies greatly

I'd hate to have a saw start spinning if I leaned over the table and hit the pedal accidentally, or at any point really.

I use a paddle switch like this:

https://www.amazon.com/Woodstock-D4151-220-Volt-Paddle-Switch/dp/B005W17FRS

https://www.amazon.com/Woodstock-D4160-110-Volt-Paddle-Switch/dp/B005W17HYY

With leads or sockets made for removable tools:

https://www.amazon.com/Router-Safety-Paddle-Switch-Removable/dp/B01B1KE4EK/

http://www.rockler.com/safety-power-tool-switch

http://www.woodpeck.com/elecswitch.html

https://www.amazon.com/ROUTER-TABLE-PADDLE-PEACHTREE-WOODWORKING/dp/B00153I3IC