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Reddit mentions of XTC-3D High Performance 3D Print Coating - 24oz. Unit
Sentiment score: 11
Reddit mentions: 34
We found 34 Reddit mentions of XTC-3D High Performance 3D Print Coating - 24oz. Unit. Here are the top ones.
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- Size: 130mm x 160mm x 3mm w/ Corners Cut
- To print with ABS or PLA, lightly spray the surface of the glass with AquaNet hairspray, then install the glass.
- Be sure to print your Z Spacer for our 3mm Borosilicate Glass Bed
- Fit Monoprice MP Select Mini / Pro 3D Printer, Malyan M200 w/ Corners Cut for the Leveling Screws, flat Polished Edge for safe to handle
- Designed by GO-3D Print in California
Features:
Specs:
Height | 2.755905509 Inches |
Length | 7.87401574 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Size | 24 Oz. Unit |
Weight | 1.4991433816 Pounds |
Width | 3.93700787 Inches |
I'm noticing a trend involving multi-tailed foxes...
Very cool, but I have a question. Do you think the filament would still be sensitive enough to heat if it was coated in epoxy such as this stuff to give it a nicer, more "sculpture"-like finish? It'd be fun to have something like this, but I typically do everything I can to obscure print lines on display pieces. Can't prime or paint this though, obviously.
I've been experimenting with different things.
Plastruct Plastic Weld makes a pretty solid bond. The only time I've had trouble with it is lately while trying to bond sections of a sword blade that are 0.3" thick and 3" wide. The sections with the most stress on them can snap if I let it flex enough.
I used Gorilla Glue to glue together pieces that left gaps. It expands and fills, so that was handy. The bond seemed strong, so I'm going to try that on the blade pieces next.
I've also used Loctite gel control super glue and it worked fairly well, but I don't believe the bond is as strong as Plastic Weld.
As for finishing prints, my current method is to use XTC 3D to smooth the print. After that, I prime, sand, and paint using spray paints. I will probably get an airbrush soon to try for nicer looking paint jobs.
I would recommend saving yourself the effort and using something like [XTC-3D](https://www.amazon.com/Smooth-XTC-3D-Performance-Print-Coating/dp/B00PFXK4JY/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8
) for smoothing out layer lines instead of sanding. PLA and PETG are painful to sand, and ABS is painful to print.
My best results have been prints in clear resin, but "transparent" PLA can be enhanced as well.
I bought the following:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PFXK4JY
You mix it like epoxy, and lightly coat the outside. I use my hands (with gloves). It removes minor blemishes, and makes for a "smoother, shinier" part.
It is not for everyone; sometimes I prefer the "frosted" look on a part.
PRO TIP: Buy a box of thumb tacks. Put a bunch of them point up so your part can dry without sticking to anything.
Most people are telling you it can't be done, but the truth is there are food grade filaments and techniques for printing food safe parts. I don't recommend you do this, but at the same time I'm happy to provide the following information.
https://all3dp.com/food-safe-3d-printing-material-filament-plastic/
https://www.3dhubs.com/talk/thread/overview-food-safe-3d-printing-materials
Slightly related, I've emailed Smooth-On to confirm their XTC-3D is not food grade.
I see them so often, that I wonder if it is inevitable with the process. Another approach would be to just smooth them out and paint it. This is a good material for smoothing a print: http://www.amazon.com/XTC-3D-High-Performance-Print-Coating/dp/B00PFXK4JY
Epoxy and lots of sanding.
You can order this stuff off Amazon and it's specifically made for 3d prints. The ones I've done have a mirror finish, and you can tint it directly to make candy automotive style finishes. Or you can prime it and paint it.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00PFXK4JY/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1525533010&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=xtc-3d&dpPl=1&dpID=51jOz30NOXL&ref=plSrch
I used this on my 3D printed upper/battery compartment
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PFXK4JY/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
It worked great! Took a couple hours to sand after but then just primered it and thats it.
http://imgur.com/a/yMRjP
Looks good. I've been wanting to print up a car too.
You should look into XTC-3D.
Not much really. The benefit of buying the mk2s is that you really don't need to modify or swap anything.
Here are a few things you might want in my opinion:
This is what you need to make it look 100% better http://www.amazon.com/XTC-3D-High-Performance-Print-Coating/dp/B00PFXK4JY/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1451974721&sr=8-2&keywords=Xtc+3d
I can't say this is what the "best" method is, just what has worked for me in the past:
My biggest gripe with 3D printing was that the ridges were always present. This process makes it so the ridges are non-existent and easier to paint!
Edit: I should mention I've mostly worked with large scale cosplay props. This process might not work for everything, like you probably don't need to put epoxy on small stuff.
Nice! I'm sure that'll look awesome. I suggest using bondo to fill cracks and divits and XTC-3D or a similar epoxy to cover the entire piece to smooth it out.
Official Site
Amazon
You could potentially do an acetone wash.
I use Smooth-On XTC-3D, but it might not be right for your application. It can add some thickness to parts, which in the case of Sledgefire shells might make them unusable.
This is the coating. It is liquid epoxy and can be very messy if you don't plan it out. https://www.amazon.com/XTC-3D-High-Performance-Print-Coating/dp/B00PFXK4JY/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1511381617&sr=8-3&keywords=3d+print+finishing
This is the one I think he is printing - https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:404028
sanding helps, but you need this
https://www.amazon.com/XTC-3D-High-Performance-Print-Coating/dp/B00PFXK4JY
I'm not fantastic at 3d printing yet, but I highly recommend this. It's helped to get rid of the "layers" in a print without losing too much detail. You can get a TON out of a single bottle, so it's worth the price. https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PFXK4JY/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Forgot about this for smoothing non-ABS prints: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PFXK4JY/
You should try XTC! Its fantastic at filling on 3d prints, 30 minute cure time. Only takes 1 careful coat for fine prints, or 2-3 regular coats for less detailed prints. You can sand it smooth with 400 grit
https://www.amazon.com/XTC-3D-High-Performance-Print-Coating/dp/B00PFXK4JY
That looks pretty sick. Just FYI though, you can get rid of those print lines with something like this: 3d print goo
Are you familiar with this stuff for coating?
You can use xtc-3d from smooth on to get a super nice smooth finish, that's what I did here
Smooth-On XTC-3D High Performance 3D Print Coating - 24oz. Unit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PFXK4JY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_ztcRBbQYAWSST
Try This
https://www.amazon.com/Smooth-XTC-3D-Performance-Print-Coating/dp/B00PFXK4JY
Its a self leveling resin used in certain forms of post processing.
On a modern engine it would run rich due to the O2 sensors in the CAT telling the engine to pump more fuel and if terribly bad, throw faults when the CAT O2 sensors get too far outside of tolerance. Also any leaks could be entirely mitigated by coating the thing in XTC-3D:
https://www.amazon.com/XTC-3D-High-Performance-Print-Coating/dp/B00PFXK4JY
It can be, though that looks rougher than any of mine. But there's a product called XTC-3D that automatically smooths the striations of 3d-printed objects by filling them in.
I'm going to try this out today.
I've had good results with the standard .4 nozzle. As long as it prints clean, I've had more success putting effort into post-processing. This stuff does wonders for painting. I've printed minis on .5 and .6 nozzles with similar results in quality.
I am going to try using this https://www.amazon.com/Smooth-XTC-3D-Performance-Print-Coating/dp/B00PFXK4JY/ to smooth out layer lines to hopefully get better barrel material.
This stuff
or you can use this: https://www.amazon.com/XTC-3D-High-Performance-Print-Coating/dp/B00PFXK4JY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1467164171&sr=8-1&keywords=xtc+3d
or this and then epoxy sealer: https://www.amazon.com/DELUXE-MATERIALS-DLXBD044-Perfect-Plastic/dp/B0076LAVFK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1467164177&sr=8-1&keywords=perfect+putty