#60 in Tools & Home Improvement
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Reddit mentions of Xuron - Xuron - 170-II Micro-Shear Flush Cutter - 170-II
Sentiment score: 22
Reddit mentions: 37
We found 37 Reddit mentions of Xuron - Xuron - 170-II Micro-Shear Flush Cutter - 170-II. Here are the top ones.
Buying options
View on Amazon.comor
- Type: Micro-Shear
- Style: Flush
- Capacity: 18 AWG
- Overall Length (Inch): 5-7/64
- Blister Pack With Generic Card
Features:
Specs:
Color | Blue |
Height | 0.6 Inches |
Length | 6.6 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Weight | 0.1 Pounds |
Width | 2.9 Inches |
>He mentioned that your armies go obsolete like every 2 years! Is this true?
No, not really. New rules will come out every few years, which may force you to alter the roster of models and wargear you’re fielding, but models are almost never written out of the game.
>Should they just start with A Start Collecting Pack?
Yes. Start Collecting packs are fantastic.
>This pack would be a 500pt or 1000pt?
Start Collecting packs are closer to 500 points. There isn’t an exact point number because you can change the number of models in a squad or give them different wargear.
>Co worker also suggested taking them both to GW to see if they can even get their head around playing the game as the rule book is pretty intense…
Yeah, going to a game shop and having someone experienced walk you through the game is a pretty good way to get a handle on the basic rules. GW shops love new people, although they tend to be very pushy salesmen.
>Or should they get a Rule book to read. Then their codex. One wants Necrons the other Dark Eldar. And then decide on a 1000pt army and start buying/building/painting etc?
I’d say see if a game shop can give them a demo first before you commit to models and books. This stuff is expensive.
Don’t worry about what a 1000 point army is. It takes time to get there. I say…
(Also don't let them buy new boxes unless the ones they have are already built.)
Good luck!
My recommended buying list for a new painter is:
Tools
Sprays
○ Grey is standard, white if you're painting a majority of light colors, and black if the majority is dark.
Brushes
○ Round 0
○ Round 1
○ Round 2
All in all it should be around $60 USD for the tools and about $40 USD for the brushes. However, this list gives you every tool you will need to get started and to continue with the hobby.
This is just what I like to have on hand, this does not reflect the "perfect list". I hope it helps :)
To mention some other homebrewing supplies and tools that haven't come up here:
The 3 things you need are:
That's pretty much it. If you want to dive in really deep I have a massive post that lists other tools and touches on a lot of customization that people have done. But none of that's mandatory, you can very easily forge ahead with just the 3 tools I linked above.
Plastic is fairly soft. As long as you're not trying to cut too close to the model anything with a sharp edge will work. Just make sure the blades are thin enough to work in between pieces. I'm using a Xuron.
Various tutorials are available on this website; I've included the one about welding parts together that would be most relevant to a beginner:
http://www.scalemodelguide.com/construction/techniques/how-to-glue-parts-together/
Model Recommendations:
Airfix Zero, or a Spitfire Mk.22.
They both are new tool kits, cheap, should fit well, and have simple paint schemes. I have built the Mk.22 and the Spitfire PR XIX below; both fit very well and require minimal filling.
Don't pick camo paint jobs; pick something simple thats one to three colors with straight lines for color demarcations.
http://www.amazon.com/Airfix-A02017-Supermarine-Spitfire-Military/dp/B0021L9BNI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1394416699&sr=8-1&keywords=spitfire+PRXIX
http://www.amazon.com/Airfix-A01005-Mitsubishi-Model-Building/dp/B0055ANHD2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1394416717&sr=8-1&keywords=airfix+zero
Basic materials:
X-acto knife
Brushable paint, e.g. like Model Master Acrylic.
Wide, medium, and fine detail brush (I recommend golden talkon brushes you get at art stores for quite cheap) Like say, 1/4 inch wide brush, a smaller brush, and then a fine detail brush, maybe 1/0 or 5/0 brush for fine detail work. (The total of that shouldn't come out to more than 10 dollars at most.)
Liquid cement:(See tutorial here)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U2clHW2UN0w
The idea is to weld it together with the solvent and then shave off the excess so you don't need to fill the seams.
Decal setting solution (a simple bottle of microsol will generally be adequate)
Tweezers.
A spray can of primer (it can be like krylon, probably).
If you're wanting to get fancy, a sprue cutter:
http://www.amazon.com/Xuron-170-II-Micro-Shear-Flush-Cutter/dp/B000IBSFAI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1394416917&sr=8-1&keywords=sprue+cutter
Other tips:
Brushes that come in "starter packs" generally suck, as does the paint.
PS: Don't buy "packages" of tools offered by model retailers until you google the price of each component separately. Those tool packages are often made of cheap junk that are lumped together and then sold at a premium.
The bare minimum (assuming you don't have a good, SHARP pocketknife) is liquid cement, and then a starter kit that includes paint, and three paintbrushes (of the widths I mentioned), and wet and dry sandpaper from the hardware store (try for 800 grit or higher).
Oh. And patience. Lots of it.
You're really going to want rotary tool like a dremel. Power drills don't spin fast enough to make good use of the bits.
You can also use a pair of flush cutters to snip those off. You specifically want flush cutters, may be labled as flush side cutters, and not regular side cutters. They cut lower than the regular ones and fit into the space better.
The tool should be available at any craft store for <$15. Do not cut axles with the flush cutters as the metal is much harder than the base metal an can damage the tool.
The metal on the base is rather soft so these work fairly well. It take some finese to do it with out having to clean anything up though.
I think you're going in too heavy with that paint set but it's up to you. I certainly have never bought a paint set. With the majority of kits you'll be making will probably use four or five paints per model when you start out, most of the time washes account for the most colour. Army painter make some really nice brushes/sets also paints, they are really good but half of those paints you may never use.
I research the kit I'm making, acquire the relevant paints, usually either vallejo, mig, ak or Tamiya. I have a real mix. This way I don't have any redundant paint, in the long run it's probably more expensive than just buying a set, but I can certainly say i've got no paint that i've never used.
For washes, I'd just get some oil paints, like winsor newton, some odourless turpentine. Once again, this is cheap, buy three or four colours and a pot of turps, a cheap brush a palette and you can make any colour you want. Some places like this do 4 for 3, the small tubes will last you years and years. There are some great videos on youtube for making washes with oil paints. I'd just get burnt umber, burnt sienna, maybe a green, blue, yellow and black.
You need a gloss clear coat, something like Mr Topcoat gloss is great, its acrylic so if you use enamel/oil paint washes over the top it won't ruin your base coat, and then finish the model with a matte or satin coat.
Take a step back, find a kit you want to make, see what paints you need. Get a brush set, get a can of spray primer, personally I'd use Tamiya's fine spray primer, it's cheap and really fine. Be very careful not to flood a model's detail though.
I'd go with a cheap pair of Xuron's, I started using them for my 3dprinter and now use them for modelling too, they're so cheap and sharp, the pair i've had now for well over a year and still work great. I use to treat cutters as expendable items but these seem to have stayed sharp the longest.
Either Tamiya thin or Mr's is fine, I use Tamiya as have done for years and never had any issues with it.
If you've saved some money with not buying a paint set then think about getting some decal setting solution like microscales set and sol.
I'd also recommend using companies like emodel, hannants, or a local hobbyshop. We have some great resources in the UK for scale modelling and often you'll find free shipping and cheaper stuff than on amazon at a lhs or an online reseller.
Edit, I should add, get a good hobby knife, Xacto or similar with replaceable blades. A set of fine needle files is useful as is either sanding foam, sanding sticks, sand paper of various grades.
I'm surprised no one has mentioned WinPE... Go find a guide on how to create a bootable WinPE 3.0 image with all the tools. It's immensely useful for changing boot partitions (bcdboot.exe) and capturing images (imagex.exe).
Also snips/shears. Like these ones:http://www.amazon.com/Xuron-170-II-Micro-Shear-Flush-Cutter/dp/B000IBSFAI/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1323835862&amp;sr=8-8
Well, if you can use the lab and it has a scope in it then you just scored big time.
As far as $100. I would get:
(amazon links for convenience, use any supplier you wish)
EDIT: Light bulb socket, 100W + 60W real light bulbs (not the hippy engery saving kind), electrical outlet - these are for making a dim bulb tester.
All I can think of right now.
http://www.amazon.com/Xuron-170-II-Micro-Shear-Flush-Cutter/dp/B000IBSFAI
Best side cutters money can buy, IMO. I used to work at a plastic injection molding company as a machine operator and these blue-handled Xuron cutters were the standard tool for cutting and trimming parts fresh out of the press.
Yeah, I bought these:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000IBSFAI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
They work perfectly. It just takes a few seconds per switch. I'll clip the pins in a paper bag so they don't go flying when they're cut.
You can now get flush cutters in blue too!
It looks like people have mostly got you started here in terms of supplies. In terms of tools though, this is what I keep in my rebuilding stuff (linking to Amazon just because its easier):
Other generic stuff:
Here's a big fat messy shopping list I made for someone a while ago. You might find it useful too.
http://www.amazon.com/Quickshade-Ink-Warpaints-Army-Painter/dp/B00HC8D80W
Amazon.com: Quickshade Ink Set Warpaints Army Painter
http://www.amazon.com/Pacer-Technology-Zap-Zap-Adhesives/dp/B00SXJJ2QI
Amazon.com: Pacer Technology (Zap) Pacer Technology (Zap) Zap-A-Gap Adhesives, 1 oz
http://www.amazon.com/General-Pencil-Company-Masters-Preserver/dp/B0009RRT9Y
Amazon.com : General Pencil Company The Masters Brush Cleaner & Preserver 2.5 0z. : Brush Soap
http://www.amazon.com/Army-Painter-Wargame-Starter-Paint/dp/B01BJ55UDQ
Buy Army Painter Wargame Starter Paint Set - PLUS Promo Undead figure
http://www.amazon.com/280715-American-Accents-Primer-12-Ounce/dp/B00KZ6LLZW?
Buy Rust Oleum 280715 American Accents Ultra Cover 2X Spray Paint, White Primer, 12-Ounce
http://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-6655-Needle-File-10-Piece/dp/B000NPUKYS?
TEKTON 6655 Needle File Set, 10-Piece
http://www.amazon.com/Xacto-X3311-Precision-Knife-Blades/dp/B0000DD1N4?
Buy Xacto X3311 N0. 1 Precision Knife With 5 No. 11 Blades
http://www.amazon.com/Most-Wanted-Wargamer-Set/dp/B007H4YR8S
Amazon.com: 1 X Most Wanted Wargamer Brush Set
http://www.amazon.com/Xuron-170-II-Micro-Shear-Flush-Cutter/dp/B000IBSFAI
Xuron 170-II Micro-Shear Flush Cutter: Wire Cutters
http://www.amazon.com/Milliput-Standard-2-Part-Hardening-Yellow/dp/B011BO9R5W
Amazon.com: 2 X Milliput Standard 2-Part Self Hardening Putty, Yellow/Grey
Edit: Of, and I used this guide for making my Thinner. http://www.reapermini.com/Thecraft/15 But I'm going to experiment more, because this is not perfect.
https://www.amazon.ca/Xuron-170-II-Micro-Shear-Flush-Cutter/dp/B000IBSFAI/ref=asc_df_B000IBSFAI/?tag=googlemobshop-20&amp;linkCode=df0&amp;hvadid=292954691968&amp;hvpos=1o1&amp;hvnetw=g&amp;hvrand=13078948668856573607&amp;hvpone=&amp;hvptwo=&amp;hvqmt=&amp;hvdev=m&amp;hvdvcmdl=&amp;hvlocint=&amp;hvlocphy=9000821&amp;hvtargid=pla-435531736464&amp;psc=1
http://www.amazon.com/Xuron-170-II-Micro-Shear-Flush-Cutter/dp/B000IBSFAI
Those are what I use to trim my leads when I build my 454.
You mean these?
http://imgur.com/gallery/Jmu5C
Those are some binding/terminal blocks I made awhile back for testing speakers/drivers, etc. I can plug in cables with banana plugs on them, and clip on to the terminals to test different drivers, etc.
There's some led tape/strip lighting under the top most shelf, and a clamp on adjustable led light with magnifying glass built in. I can swing it in when I need, and out of the way otherwise.
I think the magnifying lamp is this one: https://amzn.com/B00UW2IRJ2
The diagonal flush cutters are:
https://amzn.com/B000IBSFAI
and the small nose pliers are:
https://amzn.com/B0006N73BU
The little parts boxes are from a Bosch organizer:
https://amzn.com/B00BD5G6X6
There's cheaper options, but I had the organizer and extra bins so I used those.
Fire extinguisher is a Kidde ~3lb standard fire extinguisher. An absolute must imo.
The drawers are great, when I'm properly using them I can keep the desk clutter free.
Generally when I'm working on a project, if it's going to take longer than an hour or so, I put all the parts needed into bins, organize/label all the components. Then get started on the build. I have a small whiteboard to the left of the desk that I can pin up schematics, and take any quick notes while I'm cussing myself for forgetting something obvious.
Xuron 170-II Micro-Shear Flush Cutter
Doubles as a hangnail remover in a pinch, and vaping toe jam sounds like a bad idea. :)
If you want the real deal, they are Xuron 170-II micro-shear flush cutters.
I use these as well as and the larger 2175 set for bigger things. Note - these are only good for soft metals (copper, tin, lead) not steel. My son was nice enough to make one pair a set of wire strippers when he tried to cut some steel wire once. :-(
You will need "side cutters".
Lots of us would recommend:
http://www.amazon.com/Xuron-170-II-Micro-Shear-Flush-Cutter/dp/B000IBSFAI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1381645308&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=xuron+side+cutters
or
http://www.amazon.com/Xuron-410-Micro-Shear-Flush-Cutter/dp/B000IBOOWQ/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1381645308&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=xuron+side+cutters
To start off with. Then you can upgrade, if you want to, to heavy duty cutters later on.
To the right on the subreddit, check the useful links for... useful links!
If you have a local hobby store you can get everything you need there.
If you have the internet you can get what you need on Amazon.
You have the internet.
Gluing plastic models. You want this stuff. It's the same stuff as Citadel plastic cement.
https://www.amazon.com/Testors-3509C-Plastic-Cement-Value/dp/B00JDMWVSU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1481560583
That glue permanently welds plastic parts together. If you don't want a permanent bond then use CA glue or "superglue" that every hardware store has.
You'll also need sprue clippers:
https://www.amazon.com/Xuron-170-II-Micro-Shear-Flush-Cutter/dp/B000IBSFAI/ref=sr_1_2?s=hi&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1481560725
And a hobby knife, you mentioned x-acto so you know where to get that.
You are correct, it is cheaper not to buy these things from GW.
Looks like a solid start to me! I would recommend not fully assembling your models before you paint them, some places can be hard to reach when fully assembled.
Necessary Hobby Items
For cutting I use flush cutters, something like this.
I've found split ring pliers to be really useful for digging in there to get things really tight at the end. (I originally got them for actually attaching split rings (aka keyrings) and I actually really like these for making keyrings and attaching charms and such
I'm not sure how to help with the knots coming undone. Are you finishing the ends before you start? Your description of the problem there is a little unclear as I'm not sure if you're talking about the cord fraying (in which case always start with nice clean-melted ends), or if the knot itself is coming untied (a more technical issue that could just need adjustments to the way you hold it and how much initial tightening needs done).
Flush Cut Wire Cutters
Miniture Multi-drive Set
Battery Cases Never transport cells naked, especially near change/keys.
Also, I would highly suggest getting 9 batteries, I keep one set on the charger, one in the mod and one in the cases fully charged as a backup. I picked up those cases, specifically sol I could color code my battery sets, helps keep them together.
If you don't want to mess with building your own coils, I've recently started using these pre-built coils and I absolutely love em. I'd built a few claptons on my own, but frankly it was a lot more time than I wanted to mess with sometimes. They are pretty decent quality, they are all machine built so they are perfectly uniform and they make a quick coil change reletively painless.
Beyond the standard screwdrivers/metric allen wrenches/etc that you'd have for your job, there are a few things that are good to have on-hand. I'll give a bit of an overview of what I use regularly and consider pretty essential.
Calipers. When you want to make prints designed to real-life sizes (rather than just artistic models), calipers are almost essential. I've got some digital calipers that I got on amazon for $30-40 and I use them constantly.
Flush cutters. Little cutters like these are amazing for working with 3D printing. I use them to cut filament for a clean end to feed into the printer, to clean supports off of finished prints, cutting zip ties (which are sometimes used to hold 3D printer belts cleanly), little stuff like that. Get yourself a set for $5-10 and dedicate them to the printer; keep them reserved for soft-ish plastic to avoid killing the edge, use something else for cutting metal and thicker plastic.
Scraper. Many printers come with one, but you definitely want something like a fine-bladed putty knife or something similar. It's not uncommon to need to pry a bit to get a print off the print bed (depending on the bed surface), so having something to pry with is nice.
Thin tweezers. They don't have to be anything fancy, but tweezers are useful for grabbing little bits of plastic that came out wrong before they mess up the rest of the print or other little stuff like that.
There are a lot of other things which are useful to have on hand, but somewhat less essential. Here's some of what I have and use.
High-purity Isopropyl Alcohol and a clean cloth. I have a PEI print bed, which works great. I keep some 91% rubbing alcohol in a spray bottle; every few prints I'll give the print bed a spray or two and wipe it down with a microfiber cloth. It does a great job of keeping the print bed clean and letting prints stick well (and PEI releases prints well once it cools down).
Scale. It's definitely not essential, but it's nice to have a small scale that can give weights in grams, since it'll let you know how much of your 1kg spool is remaining and lets you weigh things quick and easy.
Small flashlight. It doesn't need to be something fancy, but I keep a cheap little flashlight near my printer for when I need to look at some part or detail and it's in a weird spot or I don't want to turn on the big light.
Small blowtorch and/or heat gun. Great for making little stringy retraction issues shrivel up and go away, restoring the color of a section of print that turned white from removing supports (from plastic fatigue) and whatever else. I've got a little butane torch that works great for doing those sorts of things.
Dental mirror. Definitely not strictly necessary, but it can be handy for seeing up under your print head without spending a couple min moving it up to the top and bending your head at an awkward angle.
Sharpie marker. Being able to write on or label a print is handy. There'll be times when you're tuning the printer settings or something similar and want to make a note of what settings you used for that print that you're tweaking for other prints; Sharpies do the job well.
There are also a few consumables which are very handy to have on hand if you're making any kind of mechanical print or doing any printer mods.
Small machine screws, especially metric. I've got a couple boxes of M2-M5 machine screws and nuts in various lengths that I use for prints that need to be fixed together or for any printer mods that need to be mounted. A $10-20 assortment box on Amazon will last you a good while.
Zip ties, in an assortment of widths. They're just really useful for tying stuff together. You've probably got a bunch already laying around, but it's worth mentioning.
Superglue. It's great for gluing prints together; I keep some thin CA glue and also some gel CA glue on-hand for gluing prints together. Just don't get your fingers stuck.
I'm sure there's also other useful stuff that I'm forgetting that someone else will mention.
As to the humidity, it really depends on how humid your house actually gets. Given that you're in Florida, however, you probably want at least a bit of protection for your filament. I'd suggest getting some kind of airtight container and some rechargeable silica beads. Keep the filament in the dry container as much as possible and cook the water out of the beads as-needed and you should be fine without having to actively dry out the filament. Just keep an eye on it and tweak your setup if you're having issues due to wet filament.
I've seen tiny cutters that allow you to cut flush with plastic. Cheap solution to that problem, I'd think.
If I think of any others, I'll add them, but that's a good start from me.
[buy a cheap, new pair] (https://smile.amazon.com/Xuron-170-II-Micro-Shear-Flush-Cutter/dp/B000IBSFAI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1475186056&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=plastic+cutters)
until you can afford a better pair...
I would go with http://www.amazon.com/Xuron-170-II-Micro-Shear-Flush-Cutter/dp/B000IBSFAI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1370150182&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=xuron or http://www.amazon.com/Xuron-410-Micro-Shear-Flush-Cutter/dp/B000IBOOWQ/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1370150182&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=xuron I personally use the latter of the two.
Welcome to the hobby.
Let me make some tool/resource suggestions for you.
Resources:
Gunpla TV if you're just starting out in the hobby this should be your go to resource. www.hobbylink.tv/category/gunplatv
For your advanced tips and tutorials check out Hux's tutorial collection here. http://www.reddit.com/r/Gunpla/comments/kzg5v/the_big_list_of_gunpla_tutorials_resources_100/
Tools:
These are the tools I use.
Side cutters
http://www.amazon.com/Xuron-170-II-Micro-Shear-Flush-Cutter/dp/B000IBSFAI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1320331584&amp;sr=8-1
Sanding Pads (fine and extra fine)
http://www.amazon.com/3M-916DCNA-Contour-Surface-Sanding/dp/B00004Z49L/ref=sr_1_2?s=hi&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1320331548&amp;sr=1-2
X-acto knife
http://www.amazon.com/Xacto-X3601-Precision-Knife-Safety/dp/B00009R8JZ/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1320331502&amp;sr=8-3
Painting:
If you're just stating out, hand brush and try rattle cans. Check out the tutorials for specifics.
It's this tooless wiring cap type of jack, like this: the third picture. I installed a couple of them just this last summer and now they don't seem to be available pretty much everywhere anymore. I found that they are easier to get loose connections on than punch-down patch panels, but I believe I came up with a best practice for them. I suggest you re-terminate to your standard TIA-EIA 568 A or B and use a needle-nose pliers to really get the conductors firmly into their grooves in the connector with a gentle pull. Then after turning the twist part of the wiring cap making sure it is fully turned and cannot turn any more use a flush cutter to trim the excess wire extruding past the edges flush so it's less likely to have connectivity issues from physical contact.
Another old guy tip -- use flush cutters (http://www.amazon.com/Xuron-170-II-Micro-Shear-Flush-Cutter/dp/B000IBSFAI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1395328103&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=flush+cutter) on your ties so you don't have all those sharp, shred your hands, edges.
Flush cutters. They're also the best for cutting the tail off zip ties and not leaving a sharp edge. I've used these for years.
Xuron 170-II Micro-Shear Flush Cutter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000IBSFAI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_v2PxDb635JSYY
THIRTY FLIPPING DOLLARS? Sweet Jayzus don't waste your money on that...
http://www.amazon.com/Xuron-170-II-Micro-Shear-Flush-Cutter/dp/B000IBSFAI/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1408467855&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=xuron+cutter
Remember, kids, GW exists solely on the dollars they overcharge for their products. If they have it, it probably exists at a third the price in any hobby shop anywhere in the world. Tools, paints, glues, all of it.
you can probably find the wire cutters at walmart too, I think I bought a pack that had a mix of pliers and other things with the clippers. These were recommended on some thread a while back.
Amazon Link
The exacto knife doesn't matter, you'll be using it to cut off excess sprue and scrape mold lines off so if its smaller that'd be best, maybe like pencil size. Mine has some ridges on the handle that doubles as a file too.
personal fix is a pair of wire nippers like these https://www.amazon.com/Xuron-170-II-Micro-Shear-Flush-Cutter/dp/B000IBSFAI
And some needle nose pliers to grab the then nipped nail and pull.