D&D Basics (Getting started)

The Absolute Basics

First you will want to grab either the Basic rules (Free), the Starter Set (Cheap), or the Players handbook, Dungeon Masters Guide, and Probably Monster Manual

Then you need to have at least a few items

• Dice (Phone apps will work if absolutely necessary, or these)
  
• Paper & Pencil (for notes)
  
• Character Sheet (In the free PDF or an app)
  
  The starter set is nice because it does a bunch of the work for you, it has an easy to follow adventure, pre-made characters, Dice, and rules for the DM and players. And at half the cost of just the players handbook AND including an adventure, it is an incredible value.
  
  Once you finish that then looking at at least a players handbook for the extra races, classes, backgrounds, and other things is a good deal. That should let you run free adventures people have put online.
  
  The DM's guide will let you get deeper into rules and the right way to call them, break them, and make them.
  
  The monster manual can be a great tool to make better encounters.
  
  If you want to run a commercial adventure after the one's included in the starter set, "Tales from the Yawning Portal" includes the Sunless Citidel, considered by many to be an excellent adventure for those new to the game and just recently brought up from 3.5e into 5e
  
  

  Common Tools of the Trade
  

  
  As you start running more complex adventures you are going to want to have a few tools to keep things moving, either as a player or as a DM.
  
  

  As a Player
  

  
  The bare essentials every players should have are listed above, but most players agree having a few extras can make the game run really quick.
  
  

  Spell Cards
  

  
  These cards have all the spells available for specific classes or from specific books on really well organized cards that make it easy to set aside your prepared spells and quickly reference all the core details.
  
  Cleric, Arcane, Ranger, Druid, Bard, Paladin, Martial Powers and Races, Xanathars Guide to Everything
  
  

  Binders & Sheet Protectors
  

  
  Keeping everything neat and organized can be a huge time saver and make it much easier for you to find what you need. Binders can be a great way to keep your notes and other materials organized. In addition many sheet protectors easily erase dry erase markers making it easy to keep track of spells and other changes without ruining character sheets with constant erasing.
  
  

  As a DM
  

  
  DMs have their work cut out for them. But a few simple tools can make the game run smooth and leave everyone having that much more fun.
  
  

  Index Cards
  

  
  A set of index cards can go a long way to speeding up the game. Players can put details on spells or magic items on them. You can prepare loot for the game ahead of time and hand it out allowing players to look over the gear as the game continues. You can also use them to hide portions of a battle map or commerical map to give the effect of fog of war.
  
  

  Game Mats
  

  
  A game mat let's you make single maps by drawing on them with dry erase or wet erase markers. Many are made of vinyl and can last a long time. Normally they will have either 1" squares or hex shapes.
  
  

  Minitures
  

  
  These things can be expensive, but giving your game that 3D upgrade and helping players better manage space in a game can be well worth it. You can use actual miniatures (Like those from Reaper), Create custom ones on Hero's Forge, or even just buy some cheap stand in tokens from Game Mash.
  
  If you just need a cheap way to keep track of positions army men, bottle caps, colored game pieces, and even legos can all play the role.
  
  No matter what you use, you can pick up colored rubber bands to mark status conditions or other information.
  
  

  Where Can I Play?
  

  
  You can find tons of places to play D&D.
  
  

• Get together a gaming group.
  
• Find a Guild or club in your area. Meetup.com,
  
• Most hobby shops and especially comic book and gaming shops offer games, usually Adventure League. WotC offers a tool to find stores here.
  
• /r/lfg can be a great way to find others to play online with.
  
• Play by Mail sites like RPoL allow you to play by forum post.
  
  

  Also:
  

  
  Critical Role - Voice actors playing DnD, Matt Mercer (The DM) is an amazing Dungeon Master and shows how the game should be played.
  
  Matthew Colville - Amazing videos on being a DM, must watch material for every DM. Even when your opinions differ he gives good reasons and great advice.
  
  

  Compendiums
  

  
  These let you ciew all the free open rules (SRD & Basic Rules) for D&D 5e at no cost.
  
  Roll20 Compendium - Has all the open rules for the game, so a good source for monsters, items, spells, etc.
  
  DnDBeyond - A more official source for the content, plus you can buy all the materials released by WotC to use, and has a great character builder.
  
  

  Adventures & Maps
  

  
  DMsGuild - Tons of free and paid adventures and other materials. The quality can be varying, but many are free and that can be great.
  
  /r/dndmaps/ - What more can they say, D&D Maps.
  
  Mike Schley Makes many of the maps for the D&D Adventures.

I think it can't hurt to have as many versions as your professor mentioned (though I'm sure it feels like it's hurting now haha). I'd say for most of the interviews I've conducted recently (at a branding and packaging agency), most people had website portfolios or PDFs that they projected in our conference room so multiple people could see them at once. A few did show up with proper physical books though too. Whether you go digital or hardcover portfolio, if you have any final printed pieces you're proud of I'd bring those along as well, as they're nice to have. Some applicants have also shown sketches, although that's not something I personally look for necessarily, but I know some agencies/designers like to see them.

A lot of the other comments are right though—different places have their own preferences on how they'd like to review work, and it varies a lot between the different types of agencies, so I think it's better to be prepared than to have to scramble right before an interview or job application. Or to show up for an interview where they want to project everything to a group and you only have a book. I haven't personally been interviewed in awhile but I tend to show my work just on my website or in a PDF if they specifically ask for that, though I try to avoid that if possible haha.

For a physical portfolio, I'm not sure it has to be as specific as the one your professor mentioned. I think she might be referring to something kind of like this (Portfolio1 or others like these (Portfolio Options)) that were used a lot in the past (maybe still today too although I haven't personally seen one in awhile at an interview).

I viewed mine back in the day as a way to further demonstrate my personal brand and style, so I purposefully chose a more unique one for that reason. Mine was sort of like this one (Portfolio) in a glossy white that I carried in a sleeve kind of thing, and then had supplemental final printed pieces in a nice box or large envelope/folder. 11x17 seemed to work fine for me, especially since it's easy to print pages at that size, but I guess slightly larger wouldn't hurt either. Just try to choose something that's relatively easy to swap projects in and out of to tailor to certain jobs (or to just replace projects as you develop stronger work over time), and one that's large enough to display your work at a nice scale without having the book take up an entire table haha.

I'm pretty sure my first physical portfolio was basically the same as my first PDF portfolio, just printed out and put in the sleeves of that screwpost binder if that helps haha. And I'm also pretty sure I haven't touched it since I got my first job 10 years ago, though I felt much more prepared having it in the early stages of interviewing for sure. I wonder how embarrassing it would be to look at now haha—I might have to go dig it out!

Good luck with everything! I know It's super daunting at the very end of school but you're almost there!!

Archivist here. I never attempted any restoration but we did store thousands of old photos and Ive had the pleasure of handling a few really old ones myself. The oldest ive had was from 1867 of a pioneer family in rural Canada. This photo was stored within a family bible for well over a century and stood up fairly well considering. Photos are fairly tough in terms of the material that theyre made from; it is exposure to the sun and humidity that damage it the worst.


/u/bhender explains virtually how we flatten curled photos. If you can at all, use soft gloves. This protects from the moisture of your hands, as well as allowing your hands to essentially slide across the photo without damaging it. Future preservationists who would love these photos will thank you for it.


Your goal when handling the document is to touch it as little as possible; pretend it is about to crumble into ashes and exaggerate your caution. It would be a good idea to flatten the photo before you scan it so see if you can get a larger book to slide the photo in. It could sometimes take days for the picture to flatten properly; from here see if you can get a plastic sheet protector that you can put into a binder. These are what we at the archives stored the photos in for ease of access. Others we put in letter envelopes. It would be preferable if you could scan the photos inside the plastic sleeve as to minimize the risk of damaging the photos. Once they are digitized, find a cool dark place to store them in. I keep my own personal WWII documents and photos in a safe I have, but im a little over the top. We also have a fair bit of WWII German documents including my grandmothers passport identifying her as a non-Jewish German; we have a box with cloth in the bottom and the document on top and another layer of cloth followed by a book etc. This has been the way its been stored since the 1960's and they look virtually as good as they day they were given.


We never attempted restoration of metals but we did occasionally clean some items we had like brass and steel. Usually warm water to wipe down and white vinegar to clean it. We had third party opinions on the restoration of other objects and if it was even worthwhile. Sometimes attempted restoration will strip everything away and end up ruining the item.


In any event, I would scan every picture and page, as well take multiple photographs of each item. Store them as best you can and then only use the digital copies. If you do get them copied, you should throw then on reddit somewhere; I would very much like to see them! Good luck and have fun.

So, true story, I spent almost a decade in heritage digitization (ie. preserving, stabilizing, and then digitizing old documents).

As others have mentioned here, the most important thing you can do ASAP is to get a digital copy of the document. Unless you have an insane amount of fine detail on the page, even your smart phone camera should be fine (an iPhone, for example, should be able to capture the document at rough ~170 pixels per inch which isn't amazing, but good enough for a just-in-case), although if you have a DSLR with a decent lens, you'll probably get better results. I wouldn't get too caught up on perfect lighting either, but try to make sure it's well lit. If you are concerned about getting a really high quality representation of the document, I'd recommend taking 4-12 pictures of the document, focused on different areas, and then using a program like Hugin which is 100% free to combine the individual photos into one very high quality image. Hugin isn't extremely difficult, but it's not extremely easy either so if you go that route make sure to follow the tutorials, like this one.

Additionally, I'd highly recommend capturing both sides of the document, even if nothing appears to be on the other side.

For preserving until you can get to a professional, the thing to focus on is that acid is your enemy and humidity is very particular. The first thing I'd do is pick up something like this: https://www.amazon.com/BCW-Newspaper-Polypropylene-Sleeves-50-Sleeves/dp/B00IDCZ6DS/

Regardless of what you get, you're looking for the keywords "Acid-free" and "Archival" (ie. polyester, polypropylene, or polyethylene). Make sure to avoid anything made from PVC ( polyvinylchloride), which will damage the document.

On top of that, I'd then move the now sleeved document into something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Gaylord-Archival%C2%AE-Newspaper-Preservation-Box/dp/B00ZDHEN1M/. Your goal with the box is to protect the document from any sunlight, etc.

Finally, for where to store them? No attics, garages, sheds, or basements! Or any environment with extreme temperature shifts, humidity changes, etc. Personally, I'd move the box to the top of an interior closet (ie. not against a house wall).

That being said, I professionally was asked all of the time what the best long-term way to store a document was and the answer I think most people expected was digitally and online. The truth is, paper documents outperform anything digital on longevity by orders of magnitude. Your document might look pretty beat up, but if you take some sensible steps to preserve it, it's got hundreds of years of life left in it.

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I've got a cheap sheffield and a cheap Winchester multitool, and a nice but very old Leatherman that doesn't open properly because I tried to cut wire that was WAY too thick with it and warped the cutters.

Now that I've got a new flashlight on my belt, I'm considering adding another multi tool. Not much room left in my pockets. Most days I could add a small multitool with the Burts Bees and leave the lighter home, but some days my phone has to join that pocket depending on the pants, or maybe a disc golf mini marker if I'm out playing.

So I'm pretty sure I want a leatherman, but 1) I don't know what my best value tool is (I wanted the Wave about 5 or 6 years ago and never bought it) and 2) I'm a little disappointed they don't come with a leather pouch any more. Wal-Mart has them locked up and in a clamshell so I can't really get them out to play with them.

What do you recommend, /r/EDC?


Here's the rest of my EDC:

Wallet - Dyno Mighty - Mighty Wallet - Wealth of Knowledge

Knife - Byrd Cara Cara 2

Flashlight (On Belt) - Nitecore P12 - 2015 Version

Pistol - Kahr CW9

IWB Holster (not pictured) - Comp-Tac Infidel

Spare Mag Pouch for Pocket - Desantis Mag-Packer

Phone / Camera - HTC One M8

I bought graph paper the summer before I started taking math classes after Calc II, and I haven't opened the package yet. I had Number Theory, Calc III, Vector Calc, Abstract Algebra I and II, a Problem Solving course and Geometry and found no need for graph paper. I saw it for a dollar and thought it might be useful. If there's anything that needs a graph, I find that a sketch works just fine.
I'm kinda weird when it comes organization. Everything needs to be exactly where I want it (I'm one of those people). So what I do is separate the binder into sections with these exact Binder Tabs. I use this Binder. You may want to try a 2" binder though. The only reason I don't is that I don't want to carry the 2" binder around.
So there are 8 sections in the binder. My last section is for extra paper. The other 7 cover 3-4 classes. I use 2 sections for a math class: one for the notes and one for the homework and other problems. I date every sheet to make finding things easier. With the remaining section after 3 math classes, I will put a random humanity or philosophy class. They only need one section. Economics took only one section for me, but I had a really easy professor. I've never taken a programming course (until this upcoming fall), but most of my friends are computer science majors (why I'm on Reddit), and I've never seen any of them take notes for any computer science classes.
Upper level math courses are fun with the right professors. A horrible subject becomes fun with a good professor; a great subject becomes dreadful with a bitch. You'll need patience to succeed. It gets really frustrating sometimes.
Also, I'd like to add that one of my teachers took notes on a tablet instead of the whiteboard, and she posted them online. The notes looked nice and I'd recommend the tablet if you feel like spending the money. I don't like using tablets, and there are many hundreds of things I'd rather do with $300, so I just stick to paper.

Amazon is probably your best bet. These are the best card sheets available in my opinion, but it's unnecessary for, say, individual sets or master sets; I mostly use them for my binder of rare and valuable cards. These are probably the second best option and are good for any type of card, otherwise the regular ones found at Walmart and Target are fine; the only thing is they tend to sag at the bottom if the binder is standing vertically but it doesn't damage or affect the cards at all.

For binders, I haven't played around with too many different kinds, but I am very satisfied with the Avery brand. Here's the specific kind I use.

Do after like an extreme positive response i am Going to Tell you How i did This (i have not any kind of etsy shop or something, this is pure Hobby dedication):

1. Firstly i Bought the digital copy and layout from humanity hates. (If you Google it, you shall find it)
   
   
   
2. I hate odd Numbers, so i was able to replicate the font and style Which was Needed for Making more of them myself (i got 1 500 Cards ( 1356 Cards in original )
   
   
   
3. Next thing i did was Buy cardboard A7 paper, for me it really was go big or go home, if i was Making This, i am NOT Going to Let them fall apart after One use. Therefore sturdy paper. ( i Couldn't print multiple Cards on a A4 or A5 Because My printer does not handle cardboard paper in that sizes)
   
   
   
4. A7 paper has the dimensions 74x105 mm (2.9x4.1 inch) in size.
   
   
   
5. I had to break the pdf up to make it so it was only One Card per page, Lets just Say. This Took a while.
   
   
6. Next thing i did was print them, One at the a time.
   
   
   
7. And now to the cutting! I wanted it True CaH size, 63x88mm ( 2.48x3,464... inch) Note: i did NOT use the siccors on the picture, Its just there for the picture, i used a paper. Blade: like This
   
   
   
8. I didn't want sharpe edges, Therefor i got myself a corner rounding cutting device. ( i Found an industrial One on second hand for cheap, Looks somewhat like this One
   
   
   
9. ????
   
   
   
10. Profit. After literally years, of dedication (Took me so much to Keep quiet about This, not showing any pre-photos or telling people about it) total or 2 printers (RIP. My oldest) and many curses about cutting wrong and had to redo the Card.
    
    
    Thank you all for the support, i loved making This as much as i hated it. But it turned out Well and now I'm so Going to enjoy it with My friends in the best way possible, hopefully a long time.
    

A calculator: TI36X Pro, Casio fx-115ES PLUS, or HP 35s (these are the 3 best calculators allowed on the FE and PE)

If you get a graphing calculator, either get the TI-84 Plus C (which can be used any time graphing calculators are allowed), or get an HP Prime or TI Nspire CS CAS (which are WAY more powerful and useful).

Pencils: Pentel Graphgear 1000, Pentel Kerry, or Rotring Rapid Pro (include an eraser such as the Sakura Foam Eraser). The rapid pro pen is also pretty popular. 0.5mm led is more popular than 0.7mm.

Engineering paper.... especially with some pressboard report covers. They make nice notebooks (albeit expensive), and pair really really well with looseleaf textbooks.

A whiteboard and markers.

a copy of K&R2.

Pricey: a nice soldering station, a multimeter, or a used oscilloscope (such as a Rigol DS1052e).

^^^\The ^^^HP ^^^is ^^^more ^^^expensive ^^^because ^^^it's ^^^targeted ^^^at ^^^professionals, ^^^rather ^^^than ^^^students.

I'm looking bind some journals similar to the moleskine softcover journal (ok tbh they're a copycat except I want to use goatskin leather and add have more pages) and would like to invest in a corner rounder so I have nice clean corners. These are what i'm currently looking at:

• [Akiles Diamond Cutter] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004F1S9C6/ref=nav_timeline_asin?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1)
  and
  
• [Tamerica RCC-110] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HS0HNJG/ref=nav_timeline_asin?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1)
  but wanted to see if anyone has experience with either of these or better suggestions as to if these would accomplish what i'm hoping to do.
  
  Thanks in advance for the help!

The closest I am finding is the following:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0792L8R4T/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_0TPrDbPQZEDNR

Personally I use the TUL discbound planners and I enjoy them because of the ability to easily change out pages as you have mentioned. The discs that come with them are relatively small and more like a small binder but I have upgraded to larger discs as to increase the amount of pages I can store.

What is nice about discbound planners is that you can easily take out a page and work on it then place it back into the notebook. This helps me a lot as I am left handed and many binder rings get in the way of my writing. I also like them because I am a perfectionist and if I mess up on a page I can easily replace it.

Damn nice haul.

On the note of the single issues I would recommend getting a short box (they fit pretty well in closets for storage too) to store single issues and by the looks of it a single box will last you a long time. They hold about 100 comics give or take depending the bags and boards you use. The boxes are pretty cheap too, you can get them on Amazon or a LCS for about $8.

Give me a few minutes and I can edit in some links for you about storing them and what not.

Edit: So here are some helpful links to understanding how to store your single issues

• Types of bags and boards
  
• Where to keep your boxes
  
  I'm a big fan of BCW, they make really high quality boxes and what not. These are all the things I use in my collection.
  
  
• Short boxs (I couldn't find just one, but I bet a LCS has them for sale in singles)
  
• Dividers
  
• Mylite Bags
  
• Boards to match
  
  Here are some shots of my collection:
  
  
• I use a mail organizer to store my single issues by series. I keep them here until I bag and board them. You'll see some are already bagged - those are my crappy bags that I don't actually use in my boxes I just had them around. The pile on the top left there is a discard pile; I end up donating them once it gets too big.
  
• Here are my boxes. 2 of the boxes are just the Flash haha but it is also in alphabetical order nonetheless.
  
• Here's a peek inside (These comics haven't been moved into those nicer boards I linked yet)
  
  Bonus screen shot of my excel spreadsheet I use to organize all this stuff.
  
  Hope this helped a little!

I can't really think of any A4 sized leather bound notebooks, but what I can recommend is a leather A4 Padfolio and a Rhodia pad. The No. 18 pad is lined, 3-hole punched, and has perforated pages.

This route is what I use for notes most of the time, and the best part is that it's refillable and customizable. Just about any Padfolio will work though, just make sure it's A4 sized or Letter sized. I'll see if I can dig up a link to my favorite inexpensive one for you. I'm currently on mobile, so I need to close this to find it.

Edit: [this](Case-it The Chief Padfolio with Letter Size Writing Pad, Black (PAD-20) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DQDEJ1E/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_Xx74wbF5NH76W) is my favorite sub-$20 Padfolio. I use this every day. Its tough, cheap, and has lots of pockets to store papers in. There are obviously better Padfolios out there, but as you may or may not know, they can get very pricey very quickly.

Here's what we ended up doing. We talked a lot about the pros and cons of buying a pack where you don't know exactly what you'll get and individual cards where you do. In the end, I bought my son the Mega Powers Collection Box (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06ZXVMWNR/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) and a binder to store his cards (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00Y57AFCW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1). My son loved this pack and the binder! My son also chose to use some of his own money to purchase four individual cards. He did a lot of research to decide on which cards he wanted to buy and to also make sure he was getting real cards, not fake ones (apparently this is an issue). It was fun watching him spend time searching around on Amazon to decide what to spend his money on. In the end, he picked four cards and is thrilled with them!

Good luck!

Our friend officiated our wedding wearing a suit that coordinated but didn't match with the men in the wedding party. I ordered this 3-ring binder that looks like a book from Amazon. It's not a full-size binder so he could easily hold it in his hands while performing the ceremony. Worked perfectly!

Get him a few of those write in the rain notebooks. you can probably get them cheaper from somewhere. They may give these out for free now, but I had to buy them when I was in. I have like 5 filled with all sorts of notes and useful shit. Also a decent watch that allows multiple time zones and has a decent count-down timer.

EDIT: One of these would also be useful too.

Another EDIT: This is all stuff I found useful. I was in the Marines back in 04-07, so we had to buy a lot of stuff ourselves. He may get these issued, but it's always good to have extra gear. Saw pouch For saw ammo, but also a good general purpose pouch that can be attached to a pack for extra storage.

Waterproofing bags Was issued one, but bought a few extras. Good for organizing stuff in a ruck.

Other small shit I always found myself buying (Stocking stuffers) AA batteries, 550 cord, duct tape, electric tape, zip ties, map pens, regular pens, new socks, tobacco products.

Hardware

I'm seeing a lot of software solutions which is great but if you take math/physics they are paper heavy so for those I really needed a binder full of paper

• Binder -- https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-3-Ring-Binder-Inch-4-Pack/dp/B01BRGTWOA/
  
• Binder dividers -- https://www.amazon.com/Smead-Three-Ring-Binder-Dividers-89415/dp/B003Y3N44O/
  
• Filler paper -- https://www.amazon.com/Five-Star-College-Reinforced-17010/dp/B01BLVANG2/
  
  Now how do i divide them?
  
  
• I have 3 classes so I use 3 binders.
  
• A binder goes like this
  
• Syllabus + Past Exams
  
• divider
  
• Notes (I put the date on top)
  
• divider
  
• Homework (Chronologically)
  
  Save those exams, you will need the midterm to study for the final
  
  

  Software
  

  In the beginning of the quarter, I also put in all the important dates (Midterms, Finals, Big projects, all the due dates if you feel like it) to my google calendar. I set it up on my phone so I get reminders.
  
  The reminders goes like this
  
  

• Midterm -- 2 week prior
  
• Finals -- 2 ~ 4 week
  
• Projects -- 1 ~ 2 week
  
• Homework -- a few days
  
• Class meetings -- 30 min prior

I have a bookshelf next to my desk dedicated just to embroidery stuff. For floss I just use 6 of those plastic thread organizer boxes. I keep a long pencil tray, like this, where I keep random odds and ends that I want within easy reach (like needles, scissors, Fray Check, etc.). Fabric (whether flat or in a long tube) get stacked neatly on another shelf. I also keep a small bucket of scrap fabric there, which comes in handy when I want to test a new stitch or see how colors look together or something. Another shelf near the bottom holds rarely used supplies. And I have a magazine holder like this for patterns.

As for WIP and finished pieces, they go in this large binder. WIP go in the rainbow accordion file in the front (the fabric & pattern) - one per divider. I put finished projects in a clear plastic sheet protector on the rings. It's fun flipping through seeing everything I've done, and it's nice having most of them in one place to show other people. Large projects that don't fit in the binder when finished are usually gifts or one of the few things I put on display.

I use this organizer to store the thread colors of current WIPs so I don't have to put them back in the main storage every single time I stitch (plus small scissors and needles), and it is also quite convenient to slip in a bag or purse if I want to bring a project with me.

I think the best way to go about it (although time consuming) is getting page protectors (something like This!) and tossing them in a binder. No hole punching, no re gluing, and you can situate the chapters/pages however you like, and even use dividers to mark chapters/classes/etc.

But as others have said, if you haven't had the book long, contact WoTC, they have a (supposedly) great customer service department and will just require a few pictures of the book and will likely send you another free of charge. Sometimes they ask for the old one back, sometimes they don't.

I do indeed! :) Here's another close-up.

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I make binder templates in Photoshop if anyone needs them -- don't have them for all sets yet, but I also provide the original psds and they're pretty easy to edit. I go with these folders for storage.

I use different sheets for each card type (Ship, Squad & Objective, Upgrades).
http://www.amazon.com/20-Twenty-Pages-4-Pocket-Postcards/dp/B003AOG42Q - Works perfectly for Ship Cards. A little extra space so sleeved cards will fit in.
http://www.amazon.com/BCW-9-Pocket-Trading-Card-Pages/dp/B003GDZ7HE/ref=sr_1_3?s=toys-and-games&ie=UTF8&qid=1451522478&sr=1-3&keywords=pro+9-pocket+page is a pretty standard trading card sleeve, space for sleeves, works well.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000ETN7N4?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00 - it's a little hard to see on the image, but the space for each card is a bit truncated compared to the standard TCG page protector so the mini cards fit a bit nicer.

The only thing I'd change is a black-backed page, but I can't find many of those in non-traditional (ie not trading card sized) sizes.

Invest in some Mylite2's Standard size and some Fullbacks for your more expensive books and half-backs for your less expensive issues.

In addition, I would get a couple short boxes (you can get them online or at an LCS. BCW, CGC, etc. many companies make them). Finally if you get some real expensive issues that you want to display, invest in some top loaders.

Everything I linked will fit modern and silver age books. I made the mistake of getting 'current' size top loaders and mylites and many of my books won't fit, so if you stick with what I linked you will be good.

Also if you decide to start collecting key issues (first appearances and such) and want to keep those separate, magazine files are great for that (I get mine from Target).

I'm all for SC merch! The more the merrier!

I've love to see an Executive Style Padfolio. Like this Leather Padfolio

The front could have a very small Star Citizen logo or Sq 42 logo and then inside it could come with a full 8.5 x 11 note pad with matching watermark and pen!

I was really disappointed with their card / post it note / pen thing. I want a full portfolio like the above.

Pop Protector Case for Funko - 4" Inch Pop! Vinyl Figures (20 Pack of EcoTEK Pop Protectors) Strong, Crystal Clear, Heavy Duty Acid Free w/ Protective Film & Locking Tab https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079KCQ2FD/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_jg8QDb5NE376D

$16.88 as of pasting this :)

A friend suggested sealing them since they fade and get yellowish over time. They mentioned a newspaper holder and looked around and found this. Another friend already framed his with Walmart frames, really nice and cheap too.

UV is the ultra violet spectrum of light.

http://www.eyehortilux.com/images/visiblelightspectrum.jpg

It has destructive properties to damn near everything (paper, paint, humans, plastics, etc...) and its the main component in light that degrades comic books.

In order to avoid having your comics bleached over time by the UV that bounces around the room (assuming you have outside windows in the room), you need to put the comics into a bag or case that blocks the UV.

Mylites are the best brand of that type of product:

https://www.amazon.com/Mylites-Comic-Book-Standard-Size/dp/B00GQENKEM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1473485737&sr=8-1&keywords=mylite2

You also want to use acid free boards:

https://www.amazon.com/BCW-Current-Comic-Backing-Boards/dp/B003ZUK2J6/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1473485763&sr=8-2&keywords=comic+book+boards

And you want to make sure that you choose BOTH your bags and boards by the era/size of your comics. Believe it or not, comics have been printed in various sizes over the years, with various eras of comics like "the silver era" or "the gold era" being different sizes.

Here is more info on that:

http://www.wikihow.com/Size-Your-Comic-Books-for-Proper-Storage

If you have any other questions, let em rip.

I store all my stuff in mylar bags and longboxes. Comics on display go in either mylite4 covers, or they are encased/slabbed and graded by CGC. CGC's cases are UV blocking just like a Mylite2 or Mylite4.

Here is a test done with CGC cases, one year of sun exposure:

http://boards.collectors-society.com/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=4409343

You can tell the comic looks perfect still.

If you leave a comic in a normal bag in the sun for a year, its going to be super bleached.

I have two of these which I use with card binder pages. They work absolutely perfectly! I like them more than a box because they're a lot more future proof in terms of adding additional cards.

i use an EF nib as well and I use engineering paper in a 3 ring binder for my notes. The back side has squares for graphing things if needed. I don't know if you can get it spiral bound, I just always buy loose leaf, then when I'm done with a class/project I stick it in a cardboard report cover, write what it contains on the cover, and store it away. You definitely won't be able to double side this particular paper though as it does bleed through pretty easily. I would never double side it myself anyway.

My first solution for just playing D&D was this storage clipboard from Office Depot. The storage is just the right size for a PHB plus a few sheets of paper, a couple of pencils on the bottom, and one set of dice in the corner storage.

When I started playing other games and wanted to carry things to run games myself in one package I got a combination file-folder and binder. I can't find the specific model or brand I got, but something like this to be an RPG kit. It ended up being overkill as I don't need the binder rings when all my sheets go into the file folder, but my dice and extra pencils go in the pocket in front of the file folder (the one I have has several small mesh pockets instead of one big one). If you frequently take notes on scratch paper, or have your character sheets in plastic binder inserts so you can write over them in dry-erase, the binder part will be more useful.

Alternatively, if you don't need the file-folder to hold a lot of loose sheets, you could get a regular binder with pockets for your character sheets and some mesh pockets to hold components (this was my plan before I saw the combination binders).

Binders

Ultra Pro 9 pocket 3 ring binder sleeves

Ultra Pro 4 pocket 3 ring binder sleeves

Honestly card organization can be as cheap or expensive as you want, but these are what I've spent a majority of my money on in the last year 6 boxes of the 100 per box 9 up sleeves, 2 of the 25 per box 4 up sleeves and no less than 20 binders. Finally finished card organization project I started two years ago. Just need to print the cover pages/spine inserts.

Best belated birthday present to myself/husband ever!

WHOA. That seems incredibly steep. I've gotten 50+ page perfect bound color booklets done as a one off for ~$40 at a local place. If I was you, I'd look into the binder like the one I linked. I don't think anyone expects your portfolio book to be bound and then you can use the same binder forever and switch out work. Then all you have to pay for is printing, there's a lot of online printers that would do it for under $100 I bet.

Here's one similar to mine on amazon for $40. Other places sell them for up to $140, so definitely shop around.

What does the 'pro' $475 option entail?

Good ideas. Consider getting something with a non-rigid cover and beefier document protectors. I use something like this, but with the rings replaced with Flex-O-Locks. Functionality is the same but with better fasteners and no chance to bend the cover in a way that it won't bend back.

So... serious question - I'm looking for a geeky wallet and tried amazon, but this was the best I could find:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0093JFWGQ/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A3GERB2Q0PK2F7

Then I remembered that I saw this thread yesterday, and visited the subreddit and used "wallet" with a focus on relevance. Unfortunately, I don't see what wallets you guys are referring to... the majority are from years ago and many don't even exist on amazon or on the page linked.

That’s a good one, I use it for my sock drawer cc’s. And when I started to collect VGCs I bought a 1000-card binder, something like this one

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00Y57AFCW

Anything I really care about gets Mylite 2's and Full-Backs...

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GQENKEM/

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KA26P6Q/

For a little less than $1 a book I know I have top rate protection.

I got this idea from a GM at a con, but it has worked out very well for me.

I got a large zippered binder ( http://amzn.com/B001GIP20S ) for each of the bestiary and the NPC codex.

Then I got baseball card/photo insets that fit in a 3-ring binder. I get Ultra pro 4 pocket Page for the biggest pawns, 9 pocket Page for large pawns, and Ultra pro 15 pocket Page for small and medium pawns. I ordered them from here: http://www.republicjewelry.com/

Then I cut up the boxes and glued the front to the front of the binder so I knew which was which, and put the back inside in one of the pockets.

For rise of the runelords pawn set I basically did the same thing but with a much smaller binder. (I happened to already own this one)

Pieces go in by size then numerically. Then its a quick matter of looking at the back, seeing the size/number of the pawn you want, and pulling it out.


Here is am image gallery of how it all looks: http://imgur.com/a/tcIGC

Ultra-pro 12 slot pages. I stack up duplicates in the same slot, works like a charm.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000ETN7N4

Yes sadly only the original legends when the game first launched were made.

Here’s the official funko pop page for them.

Wraith exclusive

Mirage exclusive

rest of the collection

due to the expense, here are protectors

I bought these

AmazonBasics Clear Sheet Protectors -... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00T3ROXI6?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

And picked up a 1 inch 3 ring binder for $2.49 at OfficeMax.

And came up with my solution.

https://imgur.com/a/whgetIr/

When I was starting up my business about six months ago (just after the conclusion of the 2012 Presidential Election) I needed to buy a couple dozen binders and went to Amazon. When on Amazon I always shop by reviews. Couldn't find a damn binder due to Romney's "Binders full of women" comment. Everything was rated Five Stars due to the binders' prodigious abilities to hold all the women.

I have a 3-ring binder with sheet protectors. Makes it each to keep multipage patterns in one sleeve. I also acquired some sticky tab markers so I could label each category of pattern. These markers do in fact stick to the sheet protector so you could label each item or just label each section.

edit: Instead of a binder, you could also try three prong folders with the sheet protectors and section them by type. Could save space and would be slightly less clunky.

Yep. Sorry, it slipped my mind.

They are:

Ultra Pro Platinum Series, 12 pocket page, "protects stickers up to 2-1/4" by 2-1/2". (57mm x 63mm)."

https://www.amazon.ca/Ultra-Pro-Pocket-Stickers-Pages/dp/B000ETN7N4/

I would think so. As for slanted, the straight edge on the "D" is at and angle (for those who don't know). It looks like this

Five star flex binder that contains hero lab printouts, stored in sheet protectors; wet erase markers to scrawl temporary notes, modifiers, damage, and other stuff stuff on the protectors with.

A notecard with daily spells and abilities, along with a pencil and good eraser.

Extra 3x5 notecards and a permanent black marker, to use for writing down buffs, ad-hoc compass roses, table tents, etc.

Cut up dice necklaces to drop wall effects, track open doors, etc.

Spell templates and elevators

Modeling eraser to mold stuff on the fly.

Glass beads for invisible PCs.

Dice bag full of dice, mini, and a couple iconic minis for people who forget.

Scrap paper and extra pens and pencils.

It all fits in the flex binder, dice bag, and project case. I then put it all in a normal backpack. There is room to spare for a big water bottle and/or a sandwich.

Ecotek from amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/Pop-Protector-Case-Funko-Protectors/dp/B079KCQ2FD

I use these page protectors from amazon and keep them in a binder. I've cut down the spine for the multi-page ones.

It's definitely a little awkward for the half-height cycle books.

I'm using a 3 ring binder and storing the scenario sheets in these plastic sleeves:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00T3ROXI6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I use this binder. It has pockets that can handle all the paperwork, manuals, character sheets, etc.

I use these for the small map pieces They go in the binder.

I use these for larger map pieces. They also go in the binder.

All dice, tokens, and cards go in this box.

I ordered the box inserts for all the boxes from these guys. That covers all the minis except for the largest stuff (AT-STs), which got a case from them instead.

you need some of these

I keep a binder for certain things:

• Printed copies of my recipes
  
• Instructions for things I find myself looking up regularly (e.g. how to pressure can yeast starters)
  
• Manuals for my various pieces of brewing gear
  
• Score sheets from past competitions
  
  I don't keep my brew notes in there. I keep those in BeerSmith's Brew Log in the "Notes" area of each brew. I've also just purchased the Brew Journal from Kegs & Code (http://kegscode.com/brew-journal) because I missed the tangible notes and flipping through past brews in a notebook. When I first started brewing, I used The Homebrew Journal from Amazon (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/0760345899).
  
  One thing to consider if you develop a binder is to get plastic sheet protectors (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00T3ROXI6). You'll appreciate having them when you open your binder with wet and dirty brewing hands.